You certainly got it going but obviously have a lot to learn on using the correct types of tools to correctly approach the job in hand. Something of this age requires an amount of respect.
@@SiaVids I agree and disagree at the same time I work on them damn near daily there is some respect to be had but a crescent wrench is plenty of respectful if you're careful with it. And this is a relatively common engine in the general spectrum of things so the only rare thing about it that is worth being really careful with is the paint job as there isn't a lot of nice originals like this left out there
A good thing to use when an engine is stuck is to mix atf oil and acetone 50/50. Just pour a little into the cylinder and it penetrates better than many other liquids. Diesel also works quite well
You can also wrap eight to ten feet of wire 10-16 AWG around the magnet and give the coil a pulse of a second or two from a welding machine. That will put a very healthy magnetic field in to it.
Most folks don't know the correct way to use an adjustable wrench. I see them pulling against the moveable jaw all the time and that's what makes things go badly. Always pull against the fixed jaw.
Good adjustables have saved countless situations for me where a wrench or socket would have completely destroyed what I was working on specifically because they aren't adjustable........
Well, at least the old valve acted as a reamer to clean out the old guide, maybe? XD Pot-metal cracking/swelling means some portion of the alloy has corroded, whichever metal was more reactive tends to go first. Some grease between the housing and the magnet might slow the corrosion in that area at least, since the filing will have exposed fresh metal to the air. Giving the housing a coating of some sort of oil after cleaning would be good as well, as the scrubbing and brake-clean will have removed any oils that were protecting it. See it with old ACVW engines that sit in a wet/damp area, the more reactive magnesium case will turn into a crumbly mess but the steel parts will just have surface rust and might be saveable. Would be great if more pot-metal parts had aluminum re-pop versions available!
Das mucha "envidia buena" como decimos en el idioma español. Es muy divertido y gratificante poner a funcionar cosas antiguas; en mi casa tenemos un Renault 4 de 1977 que estuvo abandonado casi 15 años y ahora lo tenemos andando. Puede que técnicamente se puedan hacer las cosas mejor pero el trabajo que has hecho es muy bonito.
@@ShawnColorado thanks! At least John deere mags are around. I was worried I wouldn't find another splitdorf but a friend found me one and I was saved. I didn't mention it in the video but the windings in mine where also bad so the parts one came it twice as handy.
Great video! Minimal resources, maximum output. Genius. Why are some guys crying for 21st century state-of-the-art tech tools, for a guy working on an engine with pot metal parts? Please...
I plan to do a video with period correct wrenches one of these days. the good the bad and the ugly and the engine I do it to wont be the same ever again.
@@SharkRoadssure don't seem like you have delt with very many hit and miss engines. Do some learning before you make assumptions. And it isn't a restoration never said it was. 90% of people call repainting and engine a restoration. And I find the word over used and useless.
That turned out to be a pretty engine! Thanks for explaining the seal on the igniter. That was a mystery to me. I have a 6hp IHC M engine apart right now and I'll need to dig into the igniter at some point.
Bring back a lot of memories for me. When I was a teenager my friends Dad owned an antique shop and had a lot of old engines similar to this one and we started bringing them back and cleaning them up and getting to run again. This included some very old Tractors too!
@@MARRANCA2 if you think a crescent wrench is a bad tool you either Don't know how to use one or have never used one properly to begin with. There's no harm in in using a crescent wrench. If using it correctly you can snap the bolt off before it would ever round the head.
BITCH PLEASE...I've been a Field Technician probably longer than you've been alive. But please...tell me about myself while you're using crap tools. Hahahaha. You're a joke.
a field technician isn't a hit and miss engine mechanic. between me and my father we have about 60 years in antique farm machinery repair, and we aren't going to tell you how to be a field technician , because there are almost completely unalike. if you haven't worked on antique engines maybe you shouldn't talk about how someone works on them.
Finally somebody using penetrating oil. Field Mechanic here 30 years. There is nothing wrong with crecent wrenches if you know what the hell youre doing.
@@cruddycornstalks When someone like Mortskie Repairs hits valves with a metal hammer and are stunned when it breaks, just shows they are incompetant at doing stuff. Valves have hardened seats, but the stems are not hardened. He should have just removed it fully and cleaned it instead of trying to clean it with a hammer.
@@cruddycornstalks I know how to work on engines. Just because I dont video what I do and put it on youtube, doesnt mean I dont know. I started doing mechanics back in 1974.
@@enginecrzy thank you! someday when I have more time down the line I'd love to get it completely spotless in the crankcase too but I had time restraints so I skipped that part.
I agree with some people, the last thing to use is adjustable wrench. But most of the people who watch this don't know how to restore an engine or the process of it.
@@christopherrobinkivisild5309 they sure seem like it's the worst thing to ever touch this engine like some of the nuts haven't been taken off with a chisel and hammer before.
Yep. Not only was he a goon with a Crescent Wrench but he held it backwards on the Nuts. Then used it for a hammer. Oh boy. Sure ran good. I don’t know how
@@squarefour1 and what did it do? Nothing worked perfectly fine. No rounded heads no problems with the wrench what so ever but people still complain like it is causing problems. And it ran because I did the work it needed to run.
As soon as I saw him using an adjustable spanner on old rusty nuts I thought 'This guy's an animal who shouldn't be allowed near a restoration'. But when I saw him trying to drive a rusty valve shaft back into the valve guide instead of trying to get it OUT for cleaning up first, I couldn't watch anymore. Especially as he was using a hammer, not a mallet.
If it works it’ll be a miracle. Lots of rusty components I apologize, it’s a miracle. It speaks volumes about the quality of the products built by master engineers ❤❤❤❤❤❤
I guess Delaval was the same company as Alfa laval ,which is familiar to me as makers of milk separators for dairy farmers. A huge company once. The little motor was typical on small farms for running the milking plant and separator.
You did pretty well to get her back up and running. Don’t worry about the purist haters who are condescending about “the wrong tools”. A decent quality shifter, that has very little play is more than enough. Hell, they used a similar tool back then anyway.
Nonsense. I've seen so called qualified mechanics threaten with dismal for using a shifter excessively. They have their place, but VERY limited. P.S. Qualified motor mechanic.
@@cruddycornstalks monkey sees monkey does, this is the trouble. There is alot of young people who learn off UA-cam before they attempt. They copy these bad practices.
You are using the adjustable wrench in the wrong direction.The movable jaw should be towards the direction you are turning the wrench. Also when you use the file, it only cuts in one direction, so don't drag the file over the work that you just cut. This bit of advice should make the tasks much easier. Thanks for listening.
Yes I know I used it backwards in the moment you forget to pay attention. As for the file it doesn't hurt them at all running them backwards unless it's a fine finishing file. Fire ball tool on UA-cam tested it to find out for sure
He did do it with his eyes closed, that's why he couldn't find any correct tools. If you're in a workshop environment there is no excuse for using crescent wrenches as hammers etc, just lazy workmanship. The floor should be covered in sawdust like in old butcher shops, because this clown is a butcher of the worst kind.
I hate to criticize, I liked the video, but when you opened the fuel tank, from the part where you opened the lid, to pouring the fresh fuel in was all in the same shot. I would have at least inspected the tank and rinsed it out. I still enjoyed your video and will continue to watch.
a few before me had wacked on it for a good minute the stem was crushed to almost twice its thickness. so I had a replacement in line and had no reason to worry about breaking it, though it wasn't really expected. but hoh boy do people seem mad that I broke a valve that I had a replacement for ! and they seem to act like they know how to fix the world!
@@thepotterer3726 why do people hate a crescent wrench so much. If your rounding bolts off with one your using it wrong. They have easily enough grip to break the bolt before rounding it off so I still don't get why people hate them so much. They are a very useful tool that only novices say don't work especially in the old engine world.
@@cruddycornstalks personally it's because it's big as fuck, it's easy to round bolt because they tend to have a lot of play and in general, they look like something that does the job badly i personally woun't use it, but i mean, it's not me working on that, and it clearly worked good enought to do the job. i think hammering straight into the valve might be worse than any wrench. again no hate, of course, i just want to discussion, but hammering into a stuck valve seems a good way to fuck stuff up
@@Mariano.Bernacki basically no hit and miss engine had an air filter. They just sucked crud in and spar crud out. That's why you can find a lot of them completely worn out from inhaling corn dust and the like for decades.
Hammering on valve. valve breaks. doh. Saw that coming a mile away lol. Also you shouldn't use adjustable wrenches/spanners on ANYTHING that might be siezed. And.. when you were using it, you were using it incorrect hehe. But still nice to see an old engine come alive. Keep up the learning, and thank you for the video. You should spend more time lapping valves, and there was no detail on the piston and cylinder condition, all we saw was it was rusty. Not sure if you did it, but you should check and show the main bearing quality and wear level as well. Just a bit more detail, a bit slower, bit more thorough, and less hammering on things.
Those “pot metal” parts are quite toxic… it’s usually a mixture of zinc, lead and aluminium. The ratio of metals can vary, that’s why some batches last and others rot away.
You redeemed yourself for me when you remagnetized magneto . Hammering te valve head was not a great start. You were lucky with the cast iron weld too .
thank you! the valve was planned junk before I tried that's why i had a new one. and rocker arms are fairly forgiving with welds so i wasn't worried not rocket science !
thanks! alot of labor went into the filming and the editing to make the video nice and short. and everyone that doesn't understand that is saying i missed steps and did it wrong
There is no need there's nothing in this engine sensitive enough to care nor in most engines from that time. The lead in fuel wasn't as much for a lubricant or dampener then it was an octane booster as there wasn't ever metal lead in gas only tetra ethyl lead and that has no major help over modern octane boosters and oils.
@@AM-pl2pt someone finally gets it a bit. On these old engines alot of the bolts /nuts are called "large pattern" so in theory they should be one size larger then standard heads. But between a 100 years of rust and or abuse most are somewhere in between and it's safer and more reliable to use an adjustable wrench that will always go tight against what ever you put it on.
I want to build a similar enging from molten metal. Make lost foam castings , possibly some lodt pla using 3D prints. Then build a engine, to be used to generate power to charge batteries for a off grid home. NOT a replica.. more of a look at one of these, and say "Hey! I can build one of these!" Type of thing.. i have work on engines since I was a kid. But i want to actually cast and weld Making the parts for a engine. I would really like to build a few for different fuels. Build a steam engine to burn used engine oil in the boiler, id like to make it from stainless steel about the size of two 55 gallon drums on the outside. The inside, the actual boiler bring roughly the size of 1.5-1.7 , 40 gallon drums. Uses 1/2" plate, (two of them) drill (and ream) about 60 holes for the 1.25" stainless 18 gauge tubes. Placed in the steel end caps then wrapped eith a 1/4" sheet or possibly. 2-3 1/8" sheets. Eith the steam fully welded, (full penetration welds) then grind and Polish the area. And nickel plate ( heavily on the inside) weld in a ring about 1/2 x 1/2" with a groove for a copper o-ring, the ring inside the outer hoop of plate steel. Tig welded to kerp it in place and sealed. The o-ring seals the end plates. Them having oval holes to sccess the tubes. the fire box only about 12"-24" made from two layers of plate. A 1/4" plate with a 2" spacer, from 1/4" plate. Then another plate of 1/16" or 1/8" with several 2" pipes eith plugs, to allow the inner of the sides to be filled with fine sand, the inner most plated in nickel, with a 20 gauge stainless sheet metal deflector polished to reflect heat. With a 18 gauge sheet on top with holes matching the tubes or depend on the nickel plating. For protection. With a series of rings of tubes 1.5"-2" eith multiple 3/4" tubes coming from it. About 4"-6" long with a leaf blower connected to the big tube. it habing a Small piece of tubing inside with used oil under about 5-10 psi the tubing 3/8" with 3/16 pieces running up the 3/4-1" tubes with about 6-8 tiny holes neat the end of the 3/16" tube with bit plugged. The only outlet being the tiny holes them spraying into a 3/8-1/2" tube about 2" long. Making a nozzle anout 12 of them . With a tiny vhrst plug for each. With insulation protecting the wire, probably switch to nichrome wire, using the tubing as the conductor of current. With 12,v, 30 amps or so have a hot wire over the nozzle with the blower on low, slowly turn on the fuel, maybe use propane to start it. But the red hot wire should start thr oil. Slowly turn up the fuel to grt a fire, then the blower until it doesn't smoke. It should have 60-80 psi in no time. With the glame on a steel plate on a fire btick, for each nozzle, it should heat the fire box to near 1000°f with the tubes bring ,600°f (the air moving through them!) with the water ABOUT 300°-380° maybe run a steam pipe through the box to super heat the steam through a triple pass 2" pipe. Then to the stem engine. Hopefully enough to generate 3kw atleast, 750watts bring roughly 1hp, so 1.25×3=3.75 HP. With losses it vould require up to 7.5-8hp to produce 2800-3kw. Depending on losses and efficiency. A efficient generator could require as little as 4-4.5 hp i would like to produce up to 20 kw eventually, require up to 40 HP. That bring up the other engines, a gas or propane, wood gas engine. Having two cylinders with 8" bores and a12" stroke being a opposed cylinder engine , the balance should be great. Spin up to 1200 rpm max. But normally be 400-600 RPM. With the pistons both up at the same time , but giring one sfter the other. It should run near silent with the long stroke. Thr combustion should be over when the valve opens. Just a whoosh sound with the intake vslve opening just as the woosh is almost over. To help fill the cylinder with air fuel. Making more power. With roughly 9:1-10:1 compression, 2-3 times or more compression than the old engines had! Should produce more power. By about the same multiplier. A tiny 3.5 hp engine with a better cam, more compression, better fuel. 3.5 hp should get to 6-7 easily, the TQ should be greater atleast. And better balance should allow higher RPM is equivalent to much more power!!.... Sorry to ramble! Have a awesome day!
You are a far better mechanic than I am. However, I'm disappointed that 1) you did not use sockets or at least open end wrenches to remove the nuts, 2) you didn't take the valve assembly to your anvil, and use something a bit less drastic to hit on the valve so it did not shatter, 3) once you had everything apart, you took each assembly to first a cleaning station to remove the old gunk, then to a sandblasting to make everything look at least clean. Yes, you were able to make the engine work again, and if that was your only goal, you accomplished that. I suppose I'm used to restoration folks totally cleaning, stripping, re lubing, and repainting everything so it looked nearly new. I suppose I was expecting more.
thank you. for once a polite and honest critique. but! 1) a crescent does no harm to any nut or bolt when used correctly and it didn't, as well as it fits some old bolts better then any socket will since they have rusted smaller over time and aren't standard anymore, 2) had no major care for saving the valve since I had replacements ready and it was bashed in hard from many people before me trying, 3) I cleaned the grease off generally and plan to clean it farther by hand, but I would never sand blast this engine or its parts as the paint and its patina is part of its history and far harder to obtain then any type of paint you can spray at it. it took that paint over a hundred year to get that way and people want to spend a few hours taking it off and putting something anyone can buy at a store on it, no thank you. I did a bunch of little mechanical reworking to remove slop and make the engine run as best as it can and succeeded . when it comes to antique farm machinery it is far more desirable to preserve the nice original paint, then "restore it" . if you have the paint to preserve. thank you for your comment and your thoughts!
![Villiers MK15 Engine - Barn Find [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rph4Sf-GQ78/mqdefault.jpg)
![Villiers MK15 Engine - Barn Find [Restoration]](/img/tr.png)
I love these old engines!! Thank you for sharing such an awesome project...-John
I'm like "dude don't hammer that valv...oops" lol
unreal , what a moron
You certainly got it going but obviously have a lot to learn on using the correct types of tools to correctly approach the job in hand. Something of this age requires an amount of respect.
@@SiaVids I agree and disagree at the same time I work on them damn near daily there is some respect to be had but a crescent wrench is plenty of respectful if you're careful with it. And this is a relatively common engine in the general spectrum of things so the only rare thing about it that is worth being really careful with is the paint job as there isn't a lot of nice originals like this left out there
I cringe every time I see an adjustable spanner being used!
Make your own repair videos then...
@@Sulfuron41he is simply telling him ways to improve
get a life, this dude puts way more work into this channel than you do sitting and criticizing
A good thing to use when an engine is stuck is to mix atf oil and acetone 50/50. Just pour a little into the cylinder and it penetrates better than many other liquids. Diesel also works quite well
As soon as he started hitting that valve with that hammer I knew it was gonna break!!
tap-tap-tap-tap-tap CRACK Gasp!
@@trevorhaddox6884villager sound emmited*
and already had a new one and it worked great. but its always funky to see a cast iron valve head just plain crumbly before you!
It took a hell of a beating, 😅 I'll have to send this video to Mortske Repair 😀
Same, I’ve dropped valves from engine bays while doing rebuilds and had them break. Surprised that one took as much hammering as it did.
They still have those old poppin johnies workin turnin pumpjacks
I know nothing about these old "hit/miss" engines but my Dad would have loved watching your video. Very interesting. Well done.
You can also wrap eight to ten feet of wire 10-16 AWG around the magnet and give the coil a pulse of a second or two from a welding machine. That will put a very healthy magnetic field in to it.
The fastest valve grind i have ever seen.
@@martinhambleton5076 fastest in the west
Really. I never see so fast, even in fast playing.
Not the way I would unstick a valve. Other then that, it was fun to watch. Nice little engine! Good job.
Most folks don't know the correct way to use an adjustable wrench. I see them pulling against the moveable jaw all the time and that's what makes things go badly. Always pull against the fixed jaw.
or never use one, that's the only correct thing to say.
Wow. I typically don’t watch videos this long in length but this one was well worth it
Beautiful workmanship
Great job! Always enjoy watching your videos. So nice to see old machinery revived.
@@igorchesalin3501 glad to hear it. Always try my best to entertain!
Wow great job getting the engine running...
I get the goose bumps every time I see someone using an adjustable wrench
You best not watch any farming videos then😂
Good adjustables have saved countless situations for me where a wrench or socket would have completely destroyed what I was working on specifically because they aren't adjustable........
It's good to see a man not afraid to get his hands dirty. Most of the videos today have the guys gloving up like they're a proctologist.
petrochemicals are toxic
Beautiful job!
Thought this was a spoof video at first, but no, it seems to be real. Thank you for putting the comedy back into mechanical restorations.
that's the same question I ask myself everyday!
That was a good accidental bashing with the hammer😮
Probably one of the best 'oily rag' restorations I've come across.
Great work.
@@MillwalltheCat glad you like it
good job
Well, at least the old valve acted as a reamer to clean out the old guide, maybe? XD
Pot-metal cracking/swelling means some portion of the alloy has corroded, whichever metal was more reactive tends to go first. Some grease between the housing and the magnet might slow the corrosion in that area at least, since the filing will have exposed fresh metal to the air. Giving the housing a coating of some sort of oil after cleaning would be good as well, as the scrubbing and brake-clean will have removed any oils that were protecting it.
See it with old ACVW engines that sit in a wet/damp area, the more reactive magnesium case will turn into a crumbly mess but the steel parts will just have surface rust and might be saveable.
Would be great if more pot-metal parts had aluminum re-pop versions available!
What a great little engine. Well done!
@@JasonSmith-vd1sz thank you!
The way you hit that valve said it all
Good by
thanks for commenting!
Das mucha "envidia buena" como decimos en el idioma español. Es muy divertido y gratificante poner a funcionar cosas antiguas; en mi casa tenemos un Renault 4 de 1977 que estuvo abandonado casi 15 años y ahora lo tenemos andando. Puede que técnicamente se puedan hacer las cosas mejor pero el trabajo que has hecho es muy bonito.
Man. I found this late. But handtoolrescue uses an adjustable. UA-cam gold. You have one video where you use one. All the haters come out.
Rest in pieces, housing.
You're starting from afar, but the result is superb, even with these little accidents, well done.
@@philippephilou8116 thank you
Great Video. I love seeing these old engines come back alive. I'm working on a John Deere now. Cracked magneto.
@@ShawnColorado thanks! At least John deere mags are around. I was worried I wouldn't find another splitdorf but a friend found me one and I was saved. I didn't mention it in the video but the windings in mine where also bad so the parts one came it twice as handy.
Sounds exactly like me after great Mexican dinner ole. Keep up really good work lad
Dude, that's really cool. The old hit and miss engines are awesome. Someday I will do one too. Fun video bro.
thank you!
Great video! Minimal resources, maximum output. Genius. Why are some guys crying for 21st century state-of-the-art tech tools, for a guy working on an engine with pot metal parts? Please...
I plan to do a video with period correct wrenches one of these days. the good the bad and the ugly and the engine I do it to wont be the same ever again.
This is not restoration 😅
This is tortureration 😂
@@SharkRoadssure don't seem like you have delt with very many hit and miss engines. Do some learning before you make assumptions. And it isn't a restoration never said it was. 90% of people call repainting and engine a restoration. And I find the word over used and useless.
That turned out to be a pretty engine! Thanks for explaining the seal on the igniter. That was a mystery to me. I have a 6hp IHC M engine apart right now and I'll need to dig into the igniter at some point.
Bring back a lot of memories for me. When I was a teenager my friends Dad owned an antique shop and had a lot of old engines similar to this one and we started bringing them back and cleaning them up and getting to run again. This included some very old Tractors too!
Awesome old engine, good job!
Thank you!
It's really impressive for its age.
Lovely old motor. Treat to be able to work on one
What kind of heathen hammers a valve out? Adjustable wrench for everything?
I guess I could have used mind powers instead. and yes adjustable hammer for everything
Yeah. The adjustable wrench screams lazy or poor. Or both.
@@MARRANCA2 if you think a crescent wrench is a bad tool you either Don't know how to use one or have never used one properly to begin with. There's no harm in in using a crescent wrench. If using it correctly you can snap the bolt off before it would ever round the head.
BITCH PLEASE...I've been a Field Technician probably longer than you've been alive.
But please...tell me about myself while you're using crap tools.
Hahahaha. You're a joke.
a field technician isn't a hit and miss engine mechanic. between me and my father we have about 60 years in antique farm machinery repair, and we aren't going to tell you how to be a field technician , because there are almost completely unalike. if you haven't worked on antique engines maybe you shouldn't talk about how someone works on them.
It’s a great little engine, made to last. After some TLC and a clean it seems to be as good as new.
Sorry I missed the TLC part of the video, could you timestamp it please?
TLC? That stands for “tender loving care”. I didn’t see any of that.
Sorry TLC was incorrect, but could he get it running? I guess he did.
Finally somebody using penetrating oil. Field Mechanic here 30 years. There is nothing wrong with crecent wrenches if you know what the hell youre doing.
thank you! correct!
Somebody please take that hammer away and get him a set of wrenches, good grief!
nothing wrong with any of the tools I'm using or my methods. they where calculated. maybe not perfectly but it was calculated.
NO...don't let this clown near any tools ever again
@@cruddycornstalks don't let these fuckers tell you how to live your life, nothing wrong with your tools
I quite like that you left the original paint on. It gives it a bit more character.
I was hoping he done a Mortsky move on that valve, and at 4:41 he did. lol. Best part of the video so far.
i think your the first one to find enjoyment of the destruction!
@@cruddycornstalks When someone like Mortskie Repairs hits valves with a metal hammer and are stunned when it breaks, just shows they are incompetant at doing stuff. Valves have hardened seats, but the stems are not hardened. He should have just removed it fully and cleaned it instead of trying to clean it with a hammer.
@@ianallen2 I feel like your missing the point but you do you. Start making videos and see how it goes!
@@cruddycornstalks I know how to work on engines. Just because I dont video what I do and put it on youtube, doesnt mean I dont know. I started doing mechanics back in 1974.
I was waiting on you to pull a Mortske and snap off the top of that valve …. And you did! Lol
the decision was calculated, but god I'm bad at math.
Absolutely Beautiful Engine! I agree about the paint too, fantastic refurbishment as always.
@@enginecrzy thank you! someday when I have more time down the line I'd love to get it completely spotless in the crankcase too but I had time restraints so I skipped that part.
Hast Du kein Ordentliches Werkzeug?
nein es ist halt kein deutscher
I liked the face at 7:58
I agree with some people, the last thing to use is adjustable wrench. But most of the people who watch this don't know how to restore an engine or the process of it.
@@christopherrobinkivisild5309 they sure seem like it's the worst thing to ever touch this engine like some of the nuts haven't been taken off with a chisel and hammer before.
Don't think he does either
I can only say; Nice!
Get yourself a set o spanners !
we dont have spanners over here sorry...
Well, it's about time you did!
Yep. Not only was he a goon with a Crescent Wrench but he held it backwards on the Nuts. Then used it for a hammer. Oh boy. Sure ran good. I don’t know how
@@squarefour1 and what did it do? Nothing worked perfectly fine. No rounded heads no problems with the wrench what so ever but people still complain like it is causing problems. And it ran because I did the work it needed to run.
As soon as I saw him using an adjustable spanner on old rusty nuts I thought 'This guy's an animal who shouldn't be allowed near a restoration'.
But when I saw him trying to drive a rusty valve shaft back into the valve guide instead of trying to get it OUT for cleaning up first, I couldn't watch anymore. Especially as he was using a hammer, not a mallet.
yeah well I can tell you, it got a lot worse.
got the junk valve out and the new one back in so worked good!
yep engine got cut up and scrapped shame these days
Agree wholeheartedly!
thank a 100 years old engine now 😅😅😅 you make alive 💪 again 😅🎉
So many experts popping up again.
everytime
You don't need to be an expert to understand that you shouldn't hit valves with a hammer.
@@Q2kerS you haven't worked on many stuck valves then.
@@cruddycornstalks worked on even worst, but in little bit different way
Shut up !!
What an expert 🙈
@@bernhardhofstatter3129 never claimed to be an expert but definitely delt with more of them then almost everyone commenting.
If it works it’ll be a miracle. Lots of rusty components I apologize, it’s a miracle. It speaks volumes about the quality of the products built by master engineers ❤❤❤❤❤❤
its is always amazing to see how well they hold up over the years!
I guess Delaval was the same company as Alfa laval ,which is familiar to me as makers of milk separators for dairy farmers. A huge company once. The little motor was typical on small farms for running the milking plant and separator.
@@Mercmad it wasn't alpha laval it was alpha Delaval the whole time. The. It be same just DeLeval
Magnífico ejemplo de precision chinotibetana.
El martillo es pequeño, los hay mas grandes.
Watching you beat on that exhaust valve I was thinking to myself how is he not breaking that. I just hadn't given it enough time yet...
Could have told you the valve would shatter. That's NOT how you do it. But otherwise, I enjoyed it.
awsome work sir.paint it pretty.
NO, the paint on it is 100 years old but in remarkable condition for it's age, best left alone
for once could not agree with you more mrcamelpmw
Brilliant thank you 👍
I'd recommend having that green paint checked for arsenic content, just in case …
@@RattiDave licked it. Seemed ok
You did pretty well to get her back up and running. Don’t worry about the purist haters who are condescending about “the wrong tools”. A decent quality shifter, that has very little play is more than enough. Hell, they used a similar tool back then anyway.
Nonsense. I've seen so called qualified mechanics threaten with dismal for using a shifter excessively. They have their place, but VERY limited.
P.S. Qualified motor mechanic.
That was different... and utterly mesmerizing. Great job fella. I'm subscribing because you have skills.
Built to last
Cool to have this machine powering an alternator or something slightly more period to produce power to charge an Edison battery...
Nice to see beautiful, well made and reliable machinery being bought back to life. Subscribed.
I was just thinking when you was thrashing that valve, how come whenever I hit anything it breaks.
the cast iron headed valves are always touchy. but I knew I had a way to replace it so I wasn't worried.
@@cruddycornstalks monkey sees monkey does, this is the trouble. There is alot of young people who learn off UA-cam before they attempt. They copy these bad practices.
You are using the adjustable wrench in the wrong direction.The movable jaw should be towards the direction you are turning the wrench. Also when you use the file, it only cuts in one direction, so don't drag the file over the work that you just cut. This bit of advice should make the tasks much easier. Thanks for listening.
Yes I know I used it backwards in the moment you forget to pay attention. As for the file it doesn't hurt them at all running them backwards unless it's a fine finishing file. Fire ball tool on UA-cam tested it to find out for sure
Looks like you could do all that while your eyes were closed. Great job young man!
@@GICK117 thank you! Ive got a pretty good idea I'd say.
He did do it with his eyes closed, that's why he couldn't find any correct tools. If you're in a workshop environment there is no excuse for using crescent wrenches as hammers etc, just lazy workmanship. The floor should be covered in sawdust like in old butcher shops, because this clown is a butcher of the worst kind.
I hate to criticize, I liked the video, but when you opened the fuel tank, from the part where you opened the lid, to pouring the fresh fuel in was all in the same shot.
I would have at least inspected the tank and rinsed it out.
I still enjoyed your video and will continue to watch.
Never seen anyone belt a valve like that
a few before me had wacked on it for a good minute the stem was crushed to almost twice its thickness. so I had a replacement in line and had no reason to worry about breaking it, though it wasn't really expected. but hoh boy do people seem mad that I broke a valve that I had a replacement for ! and they seem to act like they know how to fix the world!
@@cruddycornstalkssilly to beat a rusted valve back and forth. did you mean to screw up the valve guide? Shouldn't it have just been pushed out?🤦♂️
You've got to lap them more than that
@dalepoppenhagen8549 You think this was all done in 24 minutes and no work was done off-camera? I personally applaud the concise editing.
some people don't understand how making videos work. thank you @BeAFixer!
Sorry, I had to stop watching when the adjustables came out.................................
@@thepotterer3726 why do people hate a crescent wrench so much. If your rounding bolts off with one your using it wrong. They have easily enough grip to break the bolt before rounding it off so I still don't get why people hate them so much. They are a very useful tool that only novices say don't work especially in the old engine world.
@@cruddycornstalks personally it's because it's big as fuck, it's easy to round bolt because they tend to have a lot of play and in general, they look like something that does the job badly
i personally woun't use it, but i mean, it's not me working on that, and it clearly worked good enought to do the job.
i think hammering straight into the valve might be worse than any wrench. again no hate, of course, i just want to discussion, but hammering into a stuck valve seems a good way to fuck stuff up
@@cruddycornstalks You should use 100 year old Peck, Stow & Wilcox monkey wrenches on your 100 year old engines 😄
Six point sockets ground down to eliminate the lead in taper, it's the only way to be sure.
I use adjustable wrenches BUT use sockets first on most things. Yeah, if something us siezed bad it is easy to round over.
Amazing ressurection!! i love those ancient hit n miss engines:)
Very nice job 👍👍🇺🇲
@@jimbritt2874 thank you
would this engine have some sort of intake air filter in service? can't see it lasting long without one, but am not knowledgeable so asking.
@@Mariano.Bernacki basically no hit and miss engine had an air filter. They just sucked crud in and spar crud out. That's why you can find a lot of them completely worn out from inhaling corn dust and the like for decades.
Hammering on valve.
valve breaks.
doh. Saw that coming a mile away lol.
Also you shouldn't use adjustable wrenches/spanners on ANYTHING that might be siezed. And.. when you were using it, you were using it incorrect hehe. But still nice to see an old engine come alive. Keep up the learning, and thank you for the video.
You should spend more time lapping valves, and there was no detail on the piston and cylinder condition, all we saw was it was rusty. Not sure if you did it, but you should check and show the main bearing quality and wear level as well. Just a bit more detail, a bit slower, bit more thorough, and less hammering on things.
Super Like!!! amazing job!!!
I love the crescent wrench
Those “pot metal” parts are quite toxic… it’s usually a mixture of zinc, lead and aluminium. The ratio of metals can vary, that’s why some batches last and others rot away.
Yep never heat them very hot with a torch or you could get zinc poisoning
You redeemed yourself for me when you remagnetized magneto . Hammering te valve head was not a great start. You were lucky with the cast iron weld too .
thank you! the valve was planned junk before I tried that's why i had a new one. and rocker arms are fairly forgiving with welds so i wasn't worried not rocket science !
Rule number one their young'un is cast iron don't like hammers.
P.S. Neither does pot metal.
What did you use to clean the engine at the end there? Looks to have worked very well!
it was a 50 50 of gasoline and kerosene. worked best with the grease the engine had without making the green come off.
He makes it look so easy. Never like that in real life.
thanks! alot of labor went into the filming and the editing to make the video nice and short. and everyone that doesn't understand that is saying i missed steps and did it wrong
All of this people hating sorry to see that I think that you did a good job keep it up!😊
thank you!
nice video but did you clean the cylinder and piston ?
@@Technoismystyle17 i removed the large chunks other wise that was all it needed. Rings must not have been stuck or it would have run very good.
Great job awesome
Thanks!
How is it that you manage to spend so much time working on these oldies ?
no other social life or care for a sleep schedule
A friend of mine has a few "hit and miss" antique engines.
Did you put a lead substitute in the gas?
There is no need there's nothing in this engine sensitive enough to care nor in most engines from that time. The lead in fuel wasn't as much for a lubricant or dampener then it was an octane booster as there wasn't ever metal lead in gas only tetra ethyl lead and that has no major help over modern octane boosters and oils.
Abroad, it is mechanical respiration. good.
What would this have been used for ? A generator ?
anything you could belt it to!
очень расстраиваюсь, когда я вижу, как раскручивают гайки разводным ключом. ребята, это вам не сантехника...
Great video,,,no talk that takes of the intress to se it...thanks!
thanks! i try to make the video as interesting as possible!
Are the bolts/nut non standard size so that an adjustable wrench has to be used?
@@AM-pl2pt someone finally gets it a bit. On these old engines alot of the bolts /nuts are called "large pattern" so in theory they should be one size larger then standard heads. But between a 100 years of rust and or abuse most are somewhere in between and it's safer and more reliable to use an adjustable wrench that will always go tight against what ever you put it on.
I want to build a similar enging from molten metal. Make lost foam castings , possibly some lodt pla using 3D prints. Then build a engine, to be used to generate power to charge batteries for a off grid home. NOT a replica.. more of a look at one of these, and say "Hey! I can build one of these!" Type of thing.. i have work on engines since I was a kid. But i want to actually cast and weld Making the parts for a engine. I would really like to build a few for different fuels. Build a steam engine to burn used engine oil in the boiler, id like to make it from stainless steel about the size of two 55 gallon drums on the outside. The inside, the actual boiler bring roughly the size of 1.5-1.7 , 40 gallon drums. Uses 1/2" plate, (two of them) drill (and ream) about 60 holes for the 1.25" stainless 18 gauge tubes. Placed in the steel end caps then wrapped eith a 1/4" sheet or possibly. 2-3 1/8" sheets. Eith the steam fully welded, (full penetration welds) then grind and Polish the area. And nickel plate ( heavily on the inside) weld in a ring about 1/2 x 1/2" with a groove for a copper o-ring, the ring inside the outer hoop of plate steel. Tig welded to kerp it in place and sealed. The o-ring seals the end plates. Them having oval holes to sccess the tubes. the fire box only about 12"-24" made from two layers of plate. A 1/4" plate with a 2" spacer, from 1/4" plate. Then another plate of 1/16" or 1/8" with several 2" pipes eith plugs, to allow the inner of the sides to be filled with fine sand, the inner most plated in nickel, with a 20 gauge stainless sheet metal deflector polished to reflect heat. With a 18 gauge sheet on top with holes matching the tubes or depend on the nickel plating. For protection. With a series of rings of tubes 1.5"-2" eith multiple 3/4" tubes coming from it. About 4"-6" long with a leaf blower connected to the big tube. it habing a Small piece of tubing inside with used oil under about 5-10 psi the tubing 3/8" with 3/16 pieces running up the 3/4-1" tubes with about 6-8 tiny holes neat the end of the 3/16" tube with bit plugged. The only outlet being the tiny holes them spraying into a 3/8-1/2" tube about 2" long. Making a nozzle anout 12 of them . With a tiny vhrst plug for each. With insulation protecting the wire, probably switch to nichrome wire, using the tubing as the conductor of current. With 12,v, 30 amps or so have a hot wire over the nozzle with the blower on low, slowly turn on the fuel, maybe use propane to start it. But the red hot wire should start thr oil. Slowly turn up the fuel to grt a fire, then the blower until it doesn't smoke. It should have 60-80 psi in no time. With the glame on a steel plate on a fire btick, for each nozzle, it should heat the fire box to near 1000°f with the tubes bring ,600°f (the air moving through them!) with the water ABOUT 300°-380° maybe run a steam pipe through the box to super heat the steam through a triple pass 2" pipe. Then to the stem engine. Hopefully enough to generate 3kw atleast, 750watts bring roughly 1hp, so 1.25×3=3.75 HP. With losses it vould require up to 7.5-8hp to produce 2800-3kw. Depending on losses and efficiency. A efficient generator could require as little as 4-4.5 hp i would like to produce up to 20 kw eventually, require up to 40 HP.
That bring up the other engines, a gas or propane, wood gas engine. Having two cylinders with 8" bores and a12" stroke being a opposed cylinder engine , the balance should be great. Spin up to 1200 rpm max. But normally be 400-600 RPM. With the pistons both up at the same time , but giring one sfter the other. It should run near silent with the long stroke. Thr combustion should be over when the valve opens. Just a whoosh sound with the intake vslve opening just as the woosh is almost over. To help fill the cylinder with air fuel. Making more power. With roughly 9:1-10:1 compression, 2-3 times or more compression than the old engines had! Should produce more power. By about the same multiplier. A tiny 3.5 hp engine with a better cam, more compression, better fuel. 3.5 hp should get to 6-7 easily, the TQ should be greater atleast. And better balance should allow higher RPM is equivalent to much more power!!.... Sorry to ramble! Have a awesome day!
You are a far better mechanic than I am.
However, I'm disappointed that 1) you did not use sockets or at least open end wrenches to remove the nuts, 2) you didn't take the valve assembly to your anvil, and use something a bit less drastic to hit on the valve so it did not shatter, 3) once you had everything apart, you took each assembly to first a cleaning station to remove the old gunk, then to a sandblasting to make everything look at least clean.
Yes, you were able to make the engine work again, and if that was your only goal, you accomplished that.
I suppose I'm used to restoration folks totally cleaning, stripping, re lubing, and repainting everything so it looked nearly new. I suppose I was expecting more.
thank you. for once a polite and honest critique. but! 1) a crescent does no harm to any nut or bolt when used correctly and it didn't, as well as it fits some old bolts better then any socket will since they have rusted smaller over time and aren't standard anymore, 2) had no major care for saving the valve since I had replacements ready and it was bashed in hard from many people before me trying, 3) I cleaned the grease off generally and plan to clean it farther by hand, but I would never sand blast this engine or its parts as the paint and its patina is part of its history and far harder to obtain then any type of paint you can spray at it. it took that paint over a hundred year to get that way and people want to spend a few hours taking it off and putting something anyone can buy at a store on it, no thank you.
I did a bunch of little mechanical reworking to remove slop and make the engine run as best as it can and succeeded . when it comes to antique farm machinery it is far more desirable to preserve the nice original paint, then "restore it" . if you have the paint to preserve.
thank you for your comment and your thoughts!