Why you shouldn't mix Shades EQ Gloss or Color Touch etc with peroxide or other developers..?!
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- #haircolor #demipermanent #shadeseq #colortouch #peroxide
Hi there
This week I'm answering a very popular question I get both in the comments on here and on Instagram...
Talking of IG, check out mine here, for LOADS more FREE hair education - craigsworld...
Did you find the video helpful? Please let me know in the comments below...I reply to EVERY comment. Yes really...
Thats all for this week, thanks for watching, see you in the next one.
CX.
Outro track - hypeddit.com/track/294eul - Навчання та стиль
Hi there all! For some strange reason I’m getting comments coming through on this video which I can’t seem to reply to….then they disappear?! Rather strange…
You've explained it so well! It was well structured, detailed and logical. You have amazing calm and kind way of speaking. It was pleasure to watch your video 😊
Goodness me, that’s such wonderfully kind feedback, thank you….and thanks for watching.
I love your shirt! You are truly one of my favorite educators - the way you explain things is so thorough & logical & fun. I have been a full-time assistant now for a year & I’m ready to start working as a full-stylist this month! Sooo excited!
(Ps. I was a pro makeup artist for decades & I used to explain this same phenomenon to everyone who bought a liner pencil from me - buy the matching sharpener! It was engineered by a professional to maximize your pencil - other brands can chew your pencil up! It’s true!)
Thank you….and thank you for all your fantastic support, it’s wonderful to know that my content is helpful. I’m so glad your on your way to being a stylist, so cool.
That’s a brilliant analogy…I may borrow it from time to time. Thanks for sharing. 👨🏻🙏🏻💗
Yes, I love the shirt! I’m so glad I found your channel!
Thank you! That makes two of us…great to have your support! 👨🏻🙏🏻
Wow very informative, loving shades eq, as a hairdresser of 36 years just love the products we now have. Thank you Craig 😊
Thanks Sara, really appreciate your kind words and you taking the time to get in touch 👨🏻🙏🏻✨
you are wonderful. thank you for the videos.
And you are so very kind…thank you. 👨🏻🙏🏻
Love your videos! Can you cover differences in using Demi, 5min toners and permanent color to tone? What would you use in certain situations. What are the chemical differences? Which will last longer. Thank you!
Thank you…and thanks for watching, I really appreciate your support. That’s a great video idea, thanks! They are basically all the same thing - a demi - the shorter the processing time (generally) the more pigmented they are…depending on the level they sit at. Leave it with me, it def needs a video 👨🏻🙌🏻
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom, expertise, and professional hair coloring tips and tricks. Thank you for generously sharing your time, talents, gifts and abilities for making exceptional educational, inspirational videos. Very inspirational, and encouraging for learning how to attempt learning new crafts and skills in hair coloring. Appreciate your labors and work very much. Best on UA-cam. Mucho Gracias
You are most welcome, thank you for your wonderful kindness, I really appreciate your support. What a lovely message to receive…thank you for watching. 👨🏻🙏🏻✨
Thanks!
Oh my goodness! Thank you Justin, that’s very kind. 👨🏻🫶🏼✨
Timing definitely makes a difference. You need to process these Colors to full dye development. (I wish Colorists would stop the 5 minute toner at the bowl and then saying the product does not work) ;) Nice video.
Hi Anne, thanks for watching and for the kind words.
Time sure does make a difference…all these amazing formulas often need a little time to get the MAX benefit, especially if you want to adjust/neutralise tone.
The 5/10 minute situation does happen a lot but I understand hair pro’s often feel up against time - I price per hour so can charge for the time it takes ti dry off and develop fully.
@@annehuijs6613 I think I’ve heard of him before…tbh, between salon life, creating content for 4 platforms and the session/education work I do, I limit scroll time, ha. Thanks for the tip off!
@@theworldofcraig My pleasure.
I loved this video, and am not a professional, but able to purchase SHEQ as an Esthetician 😊. I have nat dark hair, lifted to a lev 6/7 orange, dk yellow in spots. I used SHEQ 6 AB alone, with the SHEQ gloss. Happily it killed all the brass ! Lovely, however- though I was striving for ( Ashy), my ends & highlighted bits are a teeny bit greenish. Only I can really tell, but....when it washes out , what would u recommend mixing w 6ab nxt time? ( Actually, at this point, my roots are level 5 with maybe 10% white/ grey buggers popping out. 😃😍. Thanx!!
Hi Julie, thanks for watching, so glad you found it helpful. It’s impossible for me to give out exact formulas without seeing your hair - but what I will say is the the ABN series has a lot of blue in it…blue + yellow = green, that’s why you’re seeing a green hue. SEQG is formulated to be on the cooler side (9G is not bright yellow!) so I wouldn’t use the ABN on your ends at all, go for something from the N series - there’s both soft blue/violet in there, so it should be cool enough.
I listened to your video about using same brand developers for same color brand, albeit I've been using zero lift which usually is 1.9% peroxide mixed with shades EQ smoked cedar 04M on a male client who has become more grey, I find it becoming too dark, I want to switch or reformulate his color, I usually let him process for 25 minutes, but I want him to have a softer, more translucent color for more natural
Thanks for watching. I would always suggest using Processing Solution with Shades EQ - the “buffers” added to different developers make a lot of difference. Perhaps use the same shade but process for less time…?
I have dark hair and have been highlighting my own hair for 30 years. I'm at that stage in my life where I want more platinum highlights as opposed to blonde. Recently after I highlighted my hair and using a 1:1 ratio, I applied equal parts of 09V, 09T, and 010P using Redken Shades EQ Gloss after highlighting and left it on for 20 minutes. My highlights were almost non-existent; I had dark hair with dark highlights. What did I do wrong? Why didn't my existing highlights turn a platinum shade?
(1 part EQ Shades to 1 part EQ Gloss)
Hi there, thanks for watching. You did a great job with the application/timing, your result is to do with the shades you selected. V is pure violet (it’s always been that way) it has no “background”, this means it’s very powerful…both T + P contain a lot of blue pigment - they all run very cool. The cooler hair goes, the more light it absorbs, the darker the result will look. The N series, with a touch of V + some Clear is enough on most very light highlights 70% of the time - SEQG is formulated on the cooler side.
@@theworldofcraig Thanks for the clarification. When I highlight my hair, the color is very blonde with a touch of gold. Which EQ shade combination(s) would you recommend to obtain a icy platinum color?
@@carrijohnson8009 No problem, you’re most welcome. I’m afraid I can’t give out exact formulas - it’s impossible to do so without seeing the hair in person….there’s is a lot of info here on my channel and loads more on my Instagram, which is linked all over the place on here. Good luck with it
i tried this on my regularly platinum hair and it was darker after as well, so weird! not using eq anymore, even when i tested it again on small bit of hair 2 months later it again was darker than starting very very light pale yellow, normally i put toner in and only need it for a few minutes before my hair turns to purple nad i miss the nice white stage, this one went right to a weird low light, oh well!
What does one mix to cover grays with a gloss/glaze? So confused 🤦🏻♀️
You’re shirt is great it reminds me of 80’s abstract art, so fun!
Hi Kristin, thanks for watching and the kind words. Please don’t be confused - the reality is that generally, gloss product will not cover grey hair….they can “blend” but as they are translucent they don’t cover. If you want to get rid of your grey hair they aren’t for you. Look at cream based demi-permanent products for coverage…even those don’t really have enough “energy” to cover grey. So much depends on hair texture and each persons hair is so different when it come to demi colour.
@@theworldofcraig
Oh ok
So A gloss and activator with color is not enough OR a demi color and activator activator then a gloss and activator.
Bc gray hair is often so brittle a gloss looks great, does it need both?
Im asking bc my salon keeps just glossing my hair and its gray in 2 weeks but i love the feel of it. Im 44 and just getting noticeably gray. I will talk to her about it. So informative 😊
@@kristinheatherstarone6905 if you want the grey to cover (and last) a gloss doesn’t have enough “energy” to do those things. Cream based demi-permanent colour is the next “step up” before using permanent hair colour. Your hair stylist should be able to advise you…
Most Regular Haircolor lines ( Miss Clairol, L’Oreal Preference / Excellence / Feria / CreScendo, Redken Color Gels, Etc. ) Can use most any Peroxide or Developer without affecting the color results or performance. Certain color lines require a special developer - Most Creme colors Do Not Contain a thickening agent so the correct consistency in the Developer is needed to get the right thickness. Some color lines have an ‘Activated’ conditioning system where one or more components are in the dedicated developer. Some Colors need certain agents in the developer for the finished mixture to have the optimum pH required for processing.
Thanks for watching/sharing. The video was specifically focused on Shades EQ Gloss and Color Touch…and whilst I’m with you on your points generally, there are a few that do contain buffering agents and surfactants that may effect deposit and the longevity if the pigment in the hair.
@@theworldofcraig Sorry, I was just trying to illustrate that more modern formulas may require a dedicated developer while “Old School” brands were more ‘self-contained’. Shades Eq does need a dedicated developer because the mixture has a low pH and low Peroxide Volume which prevents excessive swelling of the hair and lightening of the natural pigment while limiting deposit to the layer just below the cuticle to provide longer lasting but temporary color.
@@jimbearoneNo need to be sorry, it’s all good - just don’t want to confuse folks who might not have your level of knowledge. I love that my channel is for anyone that’s into hair, whether they are a pro or not.
What is the difference between the Shades EQ processing gloss (silver label) and the gloss to gel (black label)?
Hi there. The “gloss to gel” makes the mix a little thicker…more gel like.
I use 20% developer (Wella)with shades EQ because I ran out of the redken processing solution and it works fine for me. I'm not very knowledgeable. I just want to cover the grey hairs and it does the job. The colors are really nice and fairly dark. I used to calculate the colors and mix different shades ( I bought like 20 different colors), but one day when I learned the bas e of dark hair is red I just mixed red (Blaze) with black and the result is great. What I don't like is that it's too liquid even though the Wella peroxide is heavy cream. I mix 1:1 but still too liquid and it runs on my scalp and forehead.
Hi Don, thanks for watching. If that works for you, then go for it. Using 20vol peroxide does change the way Shades EQ deposits pigment…it possibly lasts longer and could shift the base/leave a regrowth. There is a developer made for it with a thicker consistency - “Developer for Precision Application”.
@@theworldofcraig Thanks Craig!
Redken says over and to apply EQ shades over DRY hair for 20 mins...I see 100 of videos where toner is NEVER done following these instructions. Yes you should always watch closely but it's normal for it to appear dark and sometimes "scarey" and you have to trust the process. I want to play it safe and apply it wet and only for a few minutes not the full 20. Unless, you handsome Craig tell me something magical here. What's the deal, follow directions or many stylist practice I've seen? 😊
Hi there. It does depend on the result your after - ultimately it can be used however you want. 99.9 times I apply to dry hair and process for the full 20mins (I formulate accordingly for my blondes to not be to deep) for 2 reasons - the first being that the result will last longer…it’s a demi and it takes that time for the pigment to travel under the cuticle. Secondly, if you want the hair to get maximum shine, dry hair for the full time is best. Also worth remembering that if for example you’re wanting to remove “brassy” level 7/8 warmth from the hair using SEQG, you need to have full tonal deposit…applying to damp hair for 5 minutes won’t give you the best results and as cooler tones are always the first to leave the hair, the warmth will return…and the client could be unhappy. Hope that’s helpful….there are other videos that cover aspects of this subject on here. Thanks for the great question.
During my first year in the salon, my manager ran out of Shades EQ Processing Solution. So, she used 10 Volume developer and Alkaline water equal parts as an alternative. I never used this mixture together. Would you suggest this mixture?
Hi there, thanks for watching. I wouldn’t suggest anything other than the designated Processing Solution. Sure, other catalysts will make it oxidise but results (or longevity) could be unpredictable.
Clarification please. When the formulation for several eqs mixed together, will they all give the same effect of one shade? Or according to the shades of dimension and depth in the hair they will all serve their own purpose? I am all about depth with in my blonde and trying to see if I am able to cut some steps from all mixed and applied alone separately.
Hope that makes sense
Hi there. I generally mix several shades of SEQG together for best results. You can of course use a singular shade but it wouldn’t give such a multi tonal effect.
@The World Of Craig thank you Craig for your fast response
Okay so I'm doing a shadow root in 7n and then mixture of 9p 9N. Crystal clear and I'm assuming from what you stated i put it 1:1 solution all over and it will be different highs and low from existing d dimension?
I have the regular processing lotion
What is the strength?
I was told that there is two strength available for the eqs?
So sorry to bother
Just praying to be clear and love your videos
@@sjc3532 I’m not entirely sure what you mean regarding application/mixing…sorry. There are 2 types of processing solution - original and a slightly thicker textured one. They both are the same volume or “strength”
I’ve always wondered if you can use the Redken shade eq on its own and add to it only conditioner? Is it going to work again? Or add it straight onto the hair ?😂
Hi there, thanks for watching. You always need to mix the gloss (the 60ml bottles) with the processing solution for it to work. I do mention that in the video…
Do no lift colours then not alter the colour of the virgin hair, so that once the redken shades fades out, the original colour remains the same? Thinking of doing redken shades as part of grey hair grow out and don't want to alter the newly growing virgin grey hair in a permanent way, just have it blended with the old dyed hair while the grow out happens. For some reason I can't seem to get a clear answer on this, and I'm scared to get toners done that will permanently alter my new hair that I'm trying so desperately to grow, but not have that weird demarcation line in the meantime. Thanks.
I’m afraid I couldn’t guarantee that there wouldn’t be some colour left behind - it depends on the hair type/texture but Shades EQ Gloss can leave a slight “stain” on grey.
To be honest, all hair colour, even coloured conditioners could potentially leave pigment behind.
@@theworldofcraig ah ok good to know, thanks for letting me know. I guess then getting a shade that is as close to the original would be the best, that way grow out would be less painful and less noticeable.
@@calmingmusicandnaturesounds No worries.
There wouldn’t be a “grow out” as such - it’s more that your hair would (possibly) never be completely its natural shade.
@@theworldofcraig good to know, thanks.
I have such a huge amount of shades eq processing solution but i bleach with powder and 20 or 30 developer, then I tone with ugly duckling and now i don't know if I can use the eq processing solution with either of these as the developer or just throw this huge bottle away ugh...can I use it with my toner as if its 10 vol? i understand you said it may not be trustworthy but will it still act as a develper? thanks ahead of time for any advice you have!
Hi there, thanks for watching. I’m afraid I’m sticking with what I say in the video, sorry. It’s not as high as 10vol, so if you mix it with whatever you use it might not process correctly.
@@theworldofcraig thanks! i guess i'll take the loss of that huge bottle of processing solution :(, ps i have platinum hair and i tried to change it up and use the eq toner and it made my hair darker which was a bummer so i will go back to old way...thanks for advice! (same issue as the woman below, very strange)
@@juliefisherThe “cooler” (more ash/silver/icy) you tone hair, the deeper darker it will appear - cool tones absorb light…warm tones reflect it and look lighter. It’s a fine line.
@@theworldofcraig thanks! this is the first time i've ever had a problem so i just wont use it again, i used to use T18 wella and got perfect white nordic color but i know it's quite harsh on the hair so i tried eq my hair cutter said would be great, and well....i wont be trying it again lol...i did a test with ugly duckling pearl blond toner 10v with 10 vol and it was way brighter than the same test with shades eq 9v platinum ice, the name seems weird if what you say is that it would be darker but it's called ice? so weird! Regardless, i tried it and now i know! thank you! (there aren't a lot of great hair people for platinum in NYC!) wish i could upload a pix hehehe
Can u mix two different demi Color’s together like sheq gloss with Moroccan Calypso demi with the shades processing solution
Hi there, thanks for watching.
I really wouldn’t advise that, who knows what result you’d get…
Interesting! I see a lot of stylists here mixing shades with 10 vol regular peroxide i they say it gets better stainingpower and last longer.. is that completly wrong ? 🤔😊
Hi Robert…Thanks for watching. It’s not about it being “wrong” - more about getting the best out of the product. As I mentioned in the video, the developers for all demi permanents give them just enough “energy” to sit in the correct place in the hair…mixing them with peroxide will mean they “travel” further into the hair. They could well last longer…but is that the point of a demi permanent…and if you’re using them to tone it could lead to all manner of issues.
@@theworldofcraig okey i absolutly understand that i just get curious 😊Thank u for Sharing all your knowlegde with us other stylists 🥰🙌🏻
Awww, you’re most welcome…your support is so appreciated, thanks again 👨🏻💗
I see that, too, in my salon - usually when they are doing nuanced color corrections & are painting in lowlights, they’ll use 10vol with their deeper tone for more staining power.
@@beautyintheeyeoflarissa5889 I know lots of folks do it…and although there’s nothing wrong with it the irony is that using a higher vol won’t mean it’ll last longer.
Can I mix brown and grey redken toners together
You sure can. Have fun!
Craig, I think I know how you'll answer this and please don't shout at me 🤣🤣 but is it possible to mix say a CT tint with a shades eq developer? Or would the 2 different consistencies not work together?
Ha! So, they would mix up…but there’s no way you could be sure what results you would get. CT developer contains more “buffering” ingredients (conditioning agents) than SEQG Processing Solution…
Thank you. Now I naughtily want to try it, on myself obviously then it won't matter.
@@fionamstacey *Uh oh*
what about using a processing liquid that under 10% with a perminate wella color as a toner?
Hi there, thanks for watching. Permanent colour contains more ammonia, (not all but mostly) using a lower volume of developer could still potentially cause issues down the line as the deposit could be greater….it could also easily “shift the base” of the hair.
Lots of folks do use permanent colour to tone but personally, I always choose demi permanent.
@@theworldofcraig Thanks much for the prompt reply, My hair is a dark blond and pulls orange with everything. So I prefer a longer toner, than doing it over constantly. So I was going to use a high level 12a, blue base with the low peroxide liquid to get more deposit, but not sure if I will need to reapply as the toner fades? or if I would be better off using a creme 10% developer as I have in the past.
@@pawsitiveleader8710 Totally understand you’re naturally dark and want lots of tone…but the ammonia could actually over time make your hair more porous and then the toner will fade even faster….another reason I’m not keen on using permanent colour.
The best thing to do is to make sure you’re toning “on the level” - so if you’re a warm level 8, your formula should be an 8.
There’s a playlist full of hair colour theory videos that really go into how to get the best from toning….and one of the recent ones even takes you through he process of choosing the best formula.
@@theworldofcraig Thanks not looking for warm. cool tone
@pawsitiveleader8710 Yes, I know…that’s what I meant - if you want to get rid of the warmth, you have to tone on the level
Craig is what Beaker would look like if he was an attractive human.
Thank you…I think that’s a complement..? 👨🏻🙏🏻✨
@@theworldofcraig absolutely is! I love your work, thank you so much for sharing your wisdom with us!
@@audrawajda7005 Thank you…and I totally LOVE Beaker!
@@theworldofcraig So do I! He's my favorite. I realized that might have not seemed like a compliment, but I meant it to be! He's sweet, and smart like you. You have a beautiful silhouette was what I was getting at.
ooooooooooooooooooohhhh F#@#!!! I DID USE IT, AND ...did work on parts of my hair like level 9 or 10, on level above this I did not no one diference, and F%¨¨ S**&%!! I USED AGAIN on the next day, OMG, my hair its very S%$# right now, the color its so beautiful on some parts but 70% of may hair its not the color wich I choose .... AND MOST IMPORTANT its so dry, 0 shine, etc....
SO I wish a time machine and wacth this video ! lol
I'll treat, and wait about 15 days , work on my PH level, and I alredy buy the right stuff of redken.
Apologies but I’m not sure what you mean…? Thanks for watching and I hope you get the result you’re after….
Oops
Hi there, thanks for watching. I’m not sure your comment was meant for the video it’s come through under…?
It definitely somehow ended up on the wrong video. So sorry 😳🙁