M109R Fork Seals Replacement
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Instructional video on replacing the fork seals and fork oil on a Suzuki M109R. In this case a 2012, but the process is generally the same on all years.
Intro
1. Tools Requires - 1:00
2. Remove Headlight Nacelle - 3:23
a. (2010 and up?) 4x 10mm Bolts, 3 Electrical Connections
3. Remove Fender 6x 4mm Allen head bolts, 3 on each side (careful the brake line brackets) - 4:55 (mistakenly listed as Step 2 again)
4. Remove Front calipers - 5-45
a. 4x 12mm bolts, 2 on each.
b. Use shims to keep pads separated
c. Hang with bungee cords.
5. Remove front Wheel - 7:30 (OK, my title cards got messed up so the step numbers are all off)
a. Loosen Axle pinch bolts
b. 24mm wheel axle tool with breaker bar to undo axle.
c. Pay attention to spacers
6. Remove forks - 10:02
7. Mark on forks where they are in relation to triple tree for future ref, vertically, also measure, should be ~ 5mm from top of triple tree.
8. Fork Disassembly - 13:15
a. Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolt (6mm Allen head)
b. Slightly loosen fork caps 22mm
c. Loosen lower clamp bolts
d. Carefully slide fork out
e. Undo the fork cap and pull it up slightly
f. Use Ratchet Straps and spring compressor tool to compress spring
g. Use a large wrench wrapped in a towel through the caliper mounts to hook one end to, hook other to the compression tool
h. Gradually and evenly tighten the straps till the spacer is below the lock nut
i. Insert the fork damper rod holding tool between the PVC spacer and the lock nut
j. Loosen the lock nut and remove the fork cap (Xmm and 22mm)
k. Remove the damper rod holding tool
l. Carefully loosen / remove ratchet straps and the compression tool
m. Remove spacer and spring
n. Invert fork and pump dampening rod multiple times to facilitate oil drainage
o. Drain oil from forks - Let sit inverted (draining into a pan) for at least 10 - 15 minutes
p. Split forks into two
q. Remove dust cover
r. Remove Snap ring
s. Remove seal and retainer
9. Reassemble forks - 21:16
a. Put fork back together
b. Put New Dust Cover, Seal and retainer on inside fork (If you have seal lube you can use a bit of that on the fork)
c. Put forks back together leaving enough separation to use the slide hammer
d. Use 46/47mm slide hammer to seat seal
e. Reseat clip and dust cover.
f. Screw damper rod holding tool M10 x 1.0 to the damper rod
g. Refill fork with oil, pump damper rod 10 times, watch for bubbles. Repeat until no bubbles
h. Fill back up to top level of outer tube, move outer tube up and down several times till no more bubbles
i. Keep Fork vertical for 5-10 minutes.
j. Set fork oil level to 133mm (5.2) using gauge.
i. Move metal tube through locking ring, use caliper to measure 133mm from ring to tip of tube, set with grub screw.
k. Use plunger to remove oil till it is just below the tip of the tube (you will only suck air).
l. Install spring, tapered side up.
m. Install Spacer
n. Use compressor tool / procedure to replace fork cap
o. Inner lock nut should be tightened to 11 lb-ft.
10. Reinstall forks - Use marks from step 6 to re-orient (Should be ~5mm above steering stem) - 29:06
a. Tighten lower clamp bolts to 16.5 lb-ft
b. Tighten cap bolt to 16.5 lb-ft - recheck height
c. Tighten upper fork clamp bolt to 16.5 lb-ft
11. Replace front wheel (Axle at 72.5 lb-ft, pinch bolts at 16.5 lb-ft) - 32:57
12. Replace front calipers (Bolts at 28.0 lb-ft) - 35:04 - THIS IS MISSTATED in the video as 16 lb-ft
13. Replace fender - 36:54
14. Replace headlight nacelle - 38:50
Finish
46/47mm Slide Hammer (Ringer Fork Seal Driver) -
www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-...
Damper Rod Bleed tool - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Fork Oil level tool - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Fork Spring Compressor Kit -
www.amazon.com/MOTORCYCLE-FOR...
All Balls Fork Seal Kit -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for being very descriptive and so patient. Oh and thanks to your wife that hang out with you filming 🙂
you are amazing, you make work a child's play. Thank you for this.
I'm a mechanic and just wanted to comment on this great video. Attention to detail. Easy to follow.
Wow, very much appreciate the very high praise. My goal is simply to share info and make this job less intimidating for those who would undertake it. Thanks for the feedback!
Worked like a dream. Thanks for the video.
Studied this vid and helped me out very much. First time replacing such thing on my bike. had to buy a few tools and or even just mophed tools togther to work (not easy) but on my frist and only try its a success!! Thank you Project Aurora!!
Much thanks! Just did my 2006. Thank you for taking your time to make this video.
I successfully changed mine on a Boulevard M90 by studying your video. Absolutely invaluable tutorial. Big thank you from Australia.
Thank you for this video it is incredibly useful, you are correct there's not a lot of videos showing you the whole process. Stay bless
Brilliant video.
Thanks
Thanks so much. Harris turned me on to the video. Ill be doing this job tomorrow. Commenting to let everyone know that prices are up. The tools/parts are now around $200 for the job. Thanks again.
Good luck. I hope it goes well for you.
@19min's20sec's is an ideal time to call for a sandwich and a cold drink..... Again, I've got to say it. Well done and thank you very much for this easy to follow instructional video. You are an excellent mechanic. Methodical precise and your tools to make it flow are well placed, to hand. I feel confident to do this procedure myself now and I don't know how much it would cost at my local bike shop but I reckon it's not cheap......Also. This is the best bike on the road and I love it.
i own a bike shop in longview tx. i mainly a motorcycle tire shop that does full service work. a great deal of the work that comes to my shop is harleys and indians. today i work om metrics mini bikes and so on. thanx for the awesome video. i started this tire shop in april 2022, to date oct. 17 2022 im crazy good with more work then i ever imagined.
I hope you found it useful, I'm all about sharing information to enable others who want to do it themselves as well!
Excellent video with clear and easy to follow step by step processes. Many thanks man 😎👍
Very Glad you thought so, hope it helped!
Bro, this is an extremely useful video, my respects to you, step by step well explained and at maximum detail, i'll do this on my 2008 M109R yellow special edition, greetings from Venezuela.
Thanks for the compliments, best of luck on yours! Let me know how it goes.
@@projectaurora3496 Sure, thanks once again.
Amazing good job 😊thank you
Amazing video with all the minor and major details. Thank you sir
Hope it helped!
Great job on this video. I was able do this job easily on my 9. Thank you!
Glad to hear it, that's exactly what I was hoping for this video to do.
Muchas gracias
Very nice and clear to understand. Thanx.
I have a 2017 M90 with upside down forks. Hoping they are the same.
From the exterior they look the same except the outer top tube is black on mine M90.
The length and diameter may also be different plus spring weight rating as the 109 is a heavier bike.
But like on the M109 the fork has no adjustments so this indicates the are basically the same internal design.
I will stand the fork up and using something from above hold the spring up above the oil in the fork assembly for approximately 30 minutes and let the oil drain off the spring back into the fork.
Then remove the spring completely and measure the oil height. Record this. Then drain the oil out of the fork.
During assembly I will set the oil level to what it had originally with the spring removed based on mm depth.
Muchas gracias por el video
Well done video, really helpful.
Man wish you were in Michigan! I need this done on my M109r. Awesome video
I hope this helps you, it's not a terribly hard task, though there's a few parts where it definitely helps to have a partner. Good luck, let me know if you tackle it and how it goes.
This is very helpful thanks!
Excelent Job!! Thanks for Share this kind of experience.
I’m from Guatemala and I’m one of the few users of M109R.
excelente Video, it encouraged me to do it next week… Kudos ti the producer behing the camera. the Only sugestion it to provide the information about the oil type and how much we need to buy. A link would be great. 29:23
great video! Thank you so much.
Right around 7&a1/4mm's.....I do exactly the same.....this show's our age..lol...by the way. this is an absolutely awesome informative video, step by step easy to follow instruction. Thank you very much. I had to sub to see what else you're up to.
Unfortunately, not much yet, not really trying to be a You Tuber. I just thought this was an underrepresented procedure on our bikes, so I wanted to put this up. I will be making some others soon.
@@projectaurora3496we look forward to seeing more and thank you for uploading this easy to follow repair....God bless.
Thank you 💯%
Saludos donde lo puedo conseguir para que me trabaje mi motora M109 los sellos de la horquilla
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Will attempt this in next couple of weeks. How many qts shock oil is needed? I-2 qts?
How many oil in ml needs to 1 fork and what type of oil?Thank you.
Kick ass Mike, when u going to do mines??
The whole process can actually be done with the bike just straight up on the lift and the front wheel barely touching or just above the floor. Or loosen the axle on the front before lifting the bike. Also, I've been told in the US there wasn't a 2010 and it was the 2011 model when they moved the tach to the Headlight Nacelle.
Did you just poured more than 1L per rod? I thought each rod have a capacity of 684ml
Excellent video. Thank you. Question: can you use the rectangular damper holding tool to fill the oil instead of the m10x1 tool you've shown?
You wouldn't really be able too, you need to slide the spring and spacer over the dampening rod, and once you do, there's no way to grab the rod to hold it up while you then slide the flat tool in between the lock nut and the spacer to facilitate securing the cap. The first time we did this, we didn't have that tool, so we made our own out of about 12" of m10x1 all-thread and a couple of nuts welded together to create something to secure to the dampening rod. Cost of materials to make the tool was about the same as the cost of the tool...
@@projectaurora3496 thanks for getting back to me.
Michael Vogler
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling sound comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
Funny you mention that...I have what may be the exact same thing (obviously it depends on the sound and could be any number of things, but check out this conversation I had about it with the most knowledgeable person I know in the M109R platform, especially the clutch/transmission...
photos.app.goo.gl/CCDw6uER9nPydaWs6
Great video. I am going to use your vid to do my 109 next weekend. My question is, and I am sure you’ve been ask this many times before, is about the damper rod holding tool. The one I ordered looked exactly like yours but some have said they had to cut the end off the tool to make it work. The problem is that the inside of the tool is too shallow to allow the rod to thread in there because since the threads on the damper rod don’t begin at the end, the damper rod bottoms out before the threads meet. One guy said he had to cut the tool to make it work. Nested treads issue. Bottom line which tool did you buy that will work unmodified? Thank you.
mdg
This one works with out modification.. have used it on 4 different 9s.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0725DKNRD/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HFAKZRH3CPANZBVGQJN6
Thanks so much sir!!!
Matt
Hello, I might have gotten myself into a pickle. I am attempting to change the fork seals on my 2008 M109 but no matter what I do I can’t get the forks out. My forks on the 2008 “seem” to be a little different from yours, in that, there seems to be two chrome pipes over the forks/shocks that reside “outside” the fork clamps. I have loosened all pinch bolts at all points until they are about falling out. I have loosened the fork cap until it’s near being off. I have used a rubber mallet to tap the top of the fork cap. Is there anything I am missing?
Matt - Texas
Matt, are you on Facebook? It'll be easier to chat in real time. Look me up, join the FL M109RIDERS group..I have some ideas.
Ok…just joined
The bottom seal, "wiper seal", that you took off has a long lip on the bottom of it. The new ones you put on don't have that that long lip and also has an exposed spring on it. Are these new seals holding up?
Almost a year on, so far so good. The "All Balls" are high quality.
You did a great job with the video. I followed it and just replaced mine. Thanks for posting this!! I was just wondering how the seals were holding up.
Awesome video! Can I ask why you removed the headlight?
I suppose one could do it w/o removing the headlight, but I think it just gives a bit more room for tools and the work etc.. so I'd say mostly as a course of convenience.
Where did you buy the tool kit?
I got all the tools from Amazon. If you scroll to the bottom of the description, there's links to everything. Best of luck!
HI MY NAME IS AL,, AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON INSTALLING 2" RISERS ON SUZUKI M109R 2019...
Hi, I've done that to mine, but didn't film it or take many pictures. It's a fairly straight forward process though. Did you have any specific questions? Maybe I can help. You can find me on Facebook Michael T Hallman and we can talk in messenger if you like.
I've never done anything like this before, and would like to know how long are the stealbreaded lines and how do I start the process??? I also would like to place a 17x 6 1/4 rim on the front of my M109r 2019,, the tire size is a 170...
I have the same type of 2"raisers that you have on your bike.. I also like the way you work on your bike and the knowledge that you have,, you give very good details... THX AL Freeman
@@allenfreeman5499 many will tell you that you can do 2" risers with the stock cables. While technically they are right, you have to reroute them and they can be tight at lock. So while yes you can jump off the roof of a 2 story building, it's probably not a great idea.. lol. Highly recommend a set of +2 cables from Meancycles.
www.meancycles.com/store/parts/view.cfm?partID=224154
saludos, en mi localidad solo dispongo de aceite para horquilla MOTUL O MAXXIMA DE QUE W USAR DE O DEL OTRO
I think you're asking about what weight fork oil to use. The Harley stuff I used is ~ 20w..I'm a heavy guy at ~300lbs so I went with the thicker oil. If your more average weight you could easily go with the Motul 10 or 15w Fork oil
Off topic...Your HB risers. Much better than stock for rise and pullback?
Absolutely. They are +2" risers, and one if the first mods I did after I got the bike (some mods were already done, I bought the bike used 3 years ago). It was fairly stock, it had the Velocity Pro exhaust, Cobra Fuel tuner, Servo eliminator, and a Cyclops headlight if I recall correctly. I've done quite a bit to her since then. She was stock height, with stock seat and risers when I got her. I'm about 5' 10" with a 29" inseam. I found the stock seat to be almost as comfortable as cement and would make my ass numb, and the stock risers just far enough forward to tweak my back after about 45 minutes. I added the risers, got an Ultimate seat, and for good measure dropped her 1.5". Those 3 mods made all the difference in the world. Now I can ride her comfortably all day.
@@projectaurora3496 Thanks for the reply. Thanks for posting this instructional vid. Very well done. I have done many seal/bushing R&R but never inverted. So the risers on the bike I have now are the OEM with the short(2") extension on them. Definitely want to change the style to yours but there are so many out there(Ebay,Amazon ect) that I'm not sure which ones are the +2 risers. Last thing I want is to purchase them and find out they are less rise and pullback as what I have. Would you happen to remember where they were purchased? Also the Ultimate seat...did it move you back from OEM? Or just more comfort. Thanks again for taking the time to reply
@@mikerutherford6605 Actually I got my risers used form a buddy, I believe they are the Yani Shiki +2 risers. As for the Ultimate seat, it'll actually move you a little bit forward vs Stock, but it is also substantially more comfortable IMO.
At approx the 35 minute mark I mis-state the torque spec on the Front Caliper Mounting bolts as 16 lb-ft, they should be at 28 lb-ft
Hey awesome video. Can you send me a list of tools you used and where you purchased them from. We actually met a few years ago im the guy who gave you the lowering kit for the bike we met out by the winery in plant city. Thanks
Hey Alex, I remember well! Still one of my top 5 favorite mods...The list of tools is in the description, just keep scrolling down. Hit me up on messenger, you can bring the bike over and we can knock it out if you want!
Are you close to Ohio?.. What would you charge to do mine? :)
Thanks for the video
Sorry Frank, I'm in FL
Will that kit work on a 2007
Yes, there's not been any changes to the forks since 06 that I know of. Successfully used that kit on many years here locally.
@@projectaurora3496 Im currently rebuilding a customers 2006 m109r. I dont know how this isnt documented anywhere but the earlier year m109r's have a different spring and dampener compared to the newer M's
I'm in Florida I think I should have you do mine to perfec
Come join our group on Facebook, we can talk in messenger. (I'm Michael Hallman)
facebook.com/groups/966120234175561/
Excellent video
I would like to hire you and I would help you change my seals if possible 2006 109R I live near 34638. No hurries no worries.
We could certainly do that, start by joining facebook.com/groups/966120234175561/?ref=share and then message me