A friend taught me a cool trick. Trace the gasket on the packing material it came in. Poke holes where all the bolts go. When you pull a bolt, stick it in the corresponding hole. Some bolts may vary in size and length. This way each bolt goes back in the exact correct spot. No guessing.
If you get the chance, head to the M109R Riders, Friends, and Family Facebook group and search my name. I've been rebuilding my entire engine since Sept 26th when I had a connecting rod bearing eat itself and score my crankshaft so badly I had to replace it. I've been posting images and updates all along the way. Can't agree more with your advice here. Right tools, service manual, help from the community, etc! There is an excellent group of very knowledgeable 9 owners ready and willing to help, myself included now to an extent.
I don't totally agree with you about stock parts. When you look at clutches there is more in between stock and high performance. EBC for example have a nice range of clutches, from stock to full out racing. On my CBR 1000f I took a one step up from EBC, and I love it. They are super responsive but not edgy like a race clutch. In contrary of your saying,mine is, stock sucks. 😂 But hey, that's me. I'm always on the lookout for that little bit more/better. And to be fair...if in doubt, go stock. Or do some good research on what's out there. And I mean GOOD research. BTW, love your videos man. Keep them coming.
Nice work bro! 40k miles seems really low for a stock clutch pack-IMO. I've got 142k miles on my stock clutch on my Valkyrie. It gets ridden pretty hard. I'd been tempted to go aftermarket in your situation just because the OEM failed so early.
I was genuinely blown away 😂😂😂😂 funny thing is, that impact wrench is dirt cheap but can handle everything on the bike. Should have gotten one earlier.
You should be proud of yourself for taking on the clutch repair. Yeah, it's a little scary but you did it and the use of OEM parts is the best way to go most especially on a classic M109R. Way to go young man! I knew you could do it while I was watching the Indian race.
I'm just getting started. I want the skill to do any maintenance job on this bike. At least in the owners manual for now. Valve clearances are the big one.
Nice video thanks for making and sharing! I have a 09 m109r is your manual the same for my bike? I finally got a m109r last month trying to learn as much as I can.
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
Gear issues doesn’t involve the clutch plates. Clutch plates weren’t a problem but getting oil to them with the push pin was. Suzuki added an extra plate to the newer 109s clutch basket but I kept mine the standard number. Runs fine.
OT a bit - roughly a week ago, I bought the same fold-in / fold-up chair 😀 Really handy to not have hip-muscles pain the next few days, when you have to work on the bike 🙂 Thumbs up. Ride hard & ride safe.
@@BrandonBicasso Oooh I'll do my best - you can count on that 🙂 BTW I did a lot of work on the Suzuki VS800 and VS1400 and I'm to replace the stator & regulator/rectified on my C90T (feels more like chores than fun work), but - being very candid - I think there were and still are a lot of 'first time done' 's for each service action - so sharing your experience is (IMHO) invaluable to someone with less to no experience. If nothing else, those folks won't stumble upon some shenanigan, like you and I have, possibly 🙂 Thumbs up, bro - be safe, too.
See it's not so bad eh :) I really should buy all the right tools at some point and stop smashing my hands and such. I will one day. Great knowledge man and great video!
Great video. I very much appreciate your tips and recommendations. I know it’s been said on other comments but 40k on a stock clutch seems low. I’m in the same situation. My bike is a 13 with just over 41k and I’m thinking about replacing the clutch. I just replaced my clutch cable the broke during a trip. But no matter how much I adjust the cable I can’t seem to move the engagement zone further back on the clutch lever. In my mind I’m thinking it’s a clutch wear issue. Do you have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated brother. Thank you again for the video and links. Stay safe.
Thank you for your reply. Yes I did try adjusting the cable just yesterday. But after riding it today I think I actually made it worst. Not the back tire locks if I go into first with to much speed. It never did that before. As for the clutch cable it is new. I replaced it a few months back when it broke on the first day of a 9 day trip. I had to ride my bike home with a pice of string and vice grips on the clutch lever. Holiday weekend and everything was closed. But my clutch was the same way even with the only cable. If anything the new cable made it worse. I would be crazy grateful for any advice you have. I have never worked on a motorcycle clutch or a clutch on anything for that matter. Any help would be very much appreciated.
@@BrandonBicasso I have a new gasket on the way. I plan to pull the cover off the clutch and try to aghast it. Question, when you did yours did you drain all the oil first or just some of it? Last question. Do you know anything about the throttle return spring? For same reason my throttle doesn’t reset after I let go of it. Most times I got to twist off the throttle. Could this be an issue with a spring? Any ideas would be helpful and I would be extremely grateful. Thank you for your help. Respect 🫡
@@georgeyoung2336 Inside the clutch there is also a clutch pin adjustment, when the cables stretch this can move out of spec so if you can't get it adjusted correctly between the 2 ends of the cable that might be your next thing to look at. If its an 06 or 07 you may have a loose basket nut.
I use All Balls Racing for master cylinder rebuild kits and fork seal kit. Heads up, Fork seals can be a pain. It took me and a mechanic friend 4 hours and a lot of pain to get those rebuilt.
Thanks, Charles. That's why I haven't done them yet 😂😂😂😂 My local shop will let me use the special tools to make it easy, but I'm considering to just pay them to do it. 🤦🏾♂️
@@BrandonBicasso If you dont have someone to help you I recommend biting the bullet and paying them to do it. You can do it yourself but you will need the exact tools and a vice to get it done. My 09 Raider is at 50k miles and I can tell my clutch is getting weak too. That will be the next repair on my list. I have both master cylinders rebuilt, fork seals replaced, all new cables and 2 inch fatty ape hangers installed this year.
@@decapolis01 Yeah, I don't have one or an extra hand at all. I considered taking the forks off and taking them in to get changed to save some money. Might be the best option. And I could've gone longer on the clutch I think. Just couldn't do anything performance based.
Well done bud! The key is definitely to have the right tools! It saves your time and avoid you to breaking something! Congrats! If you don't mind to share, how much did you pay for the spare parts?
I have a '19 model with a couple thousand miles on it so far.. it will still be some time till I need to replace the clutch, but its good to be prepared for wt is coming.. maintenance for this bike down here in Brazil is quite complicated in regards to parts
May have to change my clutch soon (just got the bike, irritating!) and searched for videos. Your was right near the top of the list and I REALLY liked it!! Much appreciated! You got a new subscriber today. Also thanks for the extra stuff you added to the description, helpful!
Hey, brave of you to admit the issues. We all have these "moments" even if we plan but most of us don't tell anyone 😁 When you ask people advice and they come back at you quick and say "YOU MUSN'T forget to do..." this or that you KNOW they've got it wrong and have the good nature to want to make sure you don't do it wrong too 🤗
whelp, sounds like that was an invitation to ask. Where's a good start for fixing my 90ci boulevard's second gear slipping into neutral? Or alternatively, what would a good quote for a shop price be?
That's super unfortunate. The last quote I got was close to 3K (on the upper end from a guess) because the entire engine has to be removed and opened to get to the transmission. Normally what causes it is a bent shift fork. Luckily, it's not fully broken and you can ride it long as you skip second. It will eventually break and causes more problems in the trans at some point. Safe bet is $2k-2.5K. If you do it yourself, probably a grand for the upgraded aftermarket parts (if you go stock maybe cheaper). But I have nowhere near the expertise to do that. The service manual shows you how to get to that point to replace it, though. It's a very detailed and lengthy job.
@Chad Punte: Before you (or your mechanic) starts tearing down your bike, does it happen only after upshift or downshift? Sometimes changing the lever position by a tooth can reduce gear jumping or false neutrals by allowing your foot to push the lever further.
@@deormanrobey892 unfortunately, no. As I had to tighten that because it came loose and had to manually push the shift lever back towards a neutral position between shifts. The complete diagnosis is that under neutral or minimal load after being sufficiently warmed up second gear with assumed zero clutch imput "falls" into neutral.
B.B. Always a pleasure viewing your content, very informative, and intuitive, how'd it go? Does it shift better? Anyways thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next one
The gears in mine do not start when it warms up. I can't shift into first gear. Only when I lightly let go of the clutch handle, it enters. When I move, they go up and down without a problem. You had that?
@@BossBike sounds like your clutch cable is not adjusted properly. Do you have a copy of the manual? I would adjust that first before taking the clutch panel off. You’ll need a new clutch cover gasket if you do that. I have a copy of the manual in the description of the video.
@@BrandonBicasso I've thought about it, but it turns out to be ok. The play is well set. Yesterday, when I was downshifting at a standstill, the display showed 5,4,3,2 and each time downshifting was delayed by a second. As if in slow motion.
Make sure you grab a copy of the manual from the link in the description. It’s not difficult but not cross threading the exhaust bolts is the main concern. The bolts are in a tight space so just be patient. Also, you’ll want the exhaust off so you can line up the new gasket for the cover and to get the torque pattern correct. They have to go on in a specific order so you don’t warp the gasket or cover. Nothing scary, just follow the order.
Unless I missed it but you didn't mention about soaking the clutch plates in oil before installing. This is a must. They need to be properly lubed before install. Great job otherwise though.
Eh, I’ve always been told that too. Manual said nothing about soaking them actually. I soaked mine, but they’re gonna get soaked anyway when you start the bike 😂 Guess Suzuki doesn’t think it matters either.
@@BrandonBicasso they are "friction" plates. Anything that has friction needs properly lubed for assembly. Friction clutch plates could tear apart even though you fill up with oil after assembly.
@@guido1534 Yeah, but what about the whole theory on soaking them versus just dipping them in oil and slapping them in? I looked at it as they aren’t absorbing oil versus just lubricating the surface.
BB, well done young man, well done! Thanks for sharing and encouraging all of us to get our hands dirty even if we aren't well seasoned mechanics. So we are waiting on the test ride and review of the difference dot dot dot.
great video Brandon . I find working on my own gear very relaxing and rewarding .. Does not always save you money at first but as your knowledge grows it def will in time
I can honestly recommend a lift. I don't like harbor freight, but I used the coupon to get their lift. Mine needed some TLC in the hydraulics department, but it works well. I just don't like getting the bike on and off the lift, so maybe an Abba lift is in my future. :) The "right tool" thing is so true. I was struggling with a simple hammer drill in my old place in Holland to get window coverings up. All concrete, and my drill and bits weren't cutting it. Almost broke the drill and 2 bits were gone (cheapies). Then I decided to get a budget rotary hammer. Got it, opened the box, put the SDS bit in. Half a second of BBBRRAAAAAAPPP and I had holes at the depth I needed instead of me sweating and swearing and breaking equipment for 45 minutes. I am preparing for valve clearance measurement (and correction if needed). As it's a semi-precision job, I bought quality feeler gauges, but also a Mitutoyo micrometer and a Mitutoyo calibration piece to ensure the micrometer is measuring correctly (it was), to ensure the feeler gauges are as thick as they are claimed to be. Maybe I'm too much of a nerd. It was also a great opportunity to spend some money on quality tools. :)
Yep, I'm preparing myself for the valve clearances soon too. I know mine will need to be adjusted so that's gonna take some serious focus. Last thing I want to do is drop a shim in the engine 😂😂😂😂
@@BrandonBicasso Put some shop rags into any holes that could catch the shims! I'm still out one oil fill cap in my truck that disappeared into the depths of the engine compartment. I'm more careful now with it's replacement. :)
Did you do the clutch pin mod when you grind 3 sides down? Also I'm reading a lot of different opinions on how to adjust the clutch pin. Some say screw in to seat then out 1/4 turn. Others 1/2 turn. 1 turn. Ect. So these plates need to be in any sort of direction when you remove them? Are there any markings?
No, plates just slot in the same order, no markings. I didn’t do the push pin mod. I had clutch shudder awhile ago but haven’t had it after changing my oil more frequently along with the plates. And I went by the manual’s directions on adjusting the screw.
@@BrandonBicasso Appreciate the response Brandon. Really appreciate the effort you put into the videos. I've watched a few now. It's really helped me get better acquainted with my m109r. Been working on Harleys for years andbim re learning things with this bike. I'm gonna pull mine apart tomorrow. My issue is I thought my clutch was slipping because it was really bad. Turns out someone said that the clutch lever play needs to be checked at full throttle. Sure as shit I noticed the clutch lever tightening when I cracked the throttle which in turn was putting too much pressure on my clutch cable. Now I'm wondering if the clutch pin backed off and is allowing too much play? Have you noticed your clutch slack tightening at open throttle? If so how much? This has me wanting to open my basket to see what's going on but like I said. This bike is way different them most Harley big twins.
@@jaybourbon8608 it wouldn’t hurt to check the tube nut and basket but you’d have to readjust that push pin. The manual is easy to follow for average people so someone who already works on bikes shouldn’t have a problem. I’d check the free play at the lever end and at the lower end. I’ve had that bolt loosen from the bottom and completely lose the clutch. I’ve been tracking a problem lately similar to clutch drag but I think my issue is more electrical and related to my fuel tuner.
@@BrandonBicasso So get this Brandon. When I first rode the bike that little button behind the clutch lever was angled because the tab that holds it in place broke. It shifted and was getting caught between the lever and the clutch perch. I had to replace that first off. Thought that was my main issue. I checked the lower adjustment and it's good. Everything is tight. So you gotta tell me. Do you notice your clutch lever tightening up and taking out the slack in the lever when you nail the gas? Mine really tightens up a lot. That's what has me so concerned but I'm hearing these bikes do this? Can you confirm?
Hey Brandon thanks for the tips. I’m preparing to do the same job on my 9. I just went to my dealership and there doesn’t appear to be an OEM clutch kit. The price for all plates and springs is over 700 individually from Suzuki. How/where did you get your clutch components?
Thanks for this, totally agree with your tips. Hopefully my replacement is a good ways off :-). If you don't mind me asking, what motor oil are you running?
The synthetic 4T, I'm assuming? I was either going to try that or Amsoil, still deciding, but leaning to the Mobil 1 4T (due to wide availability). I switched a couple of years ago to the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. I had significant oil consumption after moderately hard mountain and combined highway riding after changing to that oil (I had to add a quart of oil before leaving for the trip home, so it used a quart in under 500 miles). This wasn't caused by the overfilling/leaking issue that so many have experienced. I never noticed that it used any oil prior to that (I was running Castrol then, I believe). I have since read that some others say they've experienced similar with synthetic and/or the heavier 50 weight oil (a wide variety of mixed opinions and experiences on that one, let me tell you). Do you have any significant consumption with yours? Sorry for all these questions!
@@bw6480 Nah, maybe half/full quart over time. Takes awhile. I switch between the 20W-50 and the 10W-40 depending on the season. I normally switch to the thicker oils during the hotter season and swap to the other in the winter.
Wasn't bad at all. Just have to sit down and go for it. If I didn't check the extra parts for security, would've only needed to change the plates. It's fun, though : )
Now you have the bragging rights "I did that" having the correct tools is 90% of the job done, the other 10% is research.
Truuue 💪🏾
The impact wrench was hilarious. Im going through this right now as you know. Thank again for helping out👌🏿
A friend taught me a cool trick. Trace the gasket on the packing material it came in. Poke holes where all the bolts go. When you pull a bolt, stick it in the corresponding hole. Some bolts may vary in size and length. This way each bolt goes back in the exact correct spot. No guessing.
That is a great idea. I'll remember that for next time.
Yep the old cardboard screw map... Even my buddy does laptop & computers makes a screw map for his tear downs!
If you get the chance, head to the M109R Riders, Friends, and Family Facebook group and search my name. I've been rebuilding my entire engine since Sept 26th when I had a connecting rod bearing eat itself and score my crankshaft so badly I had to replace it. I've been posting images and updates all along the way. Can't agree more with your advice here. Right tools, service manual, help from the community, etc! There is an excellent group of very knowledgeable 9 owners ready and willing to help, myself included now to an extent.
Will do, Michael! ❤️
I don't totally agree with you about stock parts. When you look at clutches there is more in between stock and high performance. EBC for example have a nice range of clutches, from stock to full out racing. On my CBR 1000f I took a one step up from EBC, and I love it. They are super responsive but not edgy like a race clutch. In contrary of your saying,mine is, stock sucks. 😂 But hey, that's me. I'm always on the lookout for that little bit more/better. And to be fair...if in doubt, go stock. Or do some good research on what's out there. And I mean GOOD research. BTW, love your videos man. Keep them coming.
We need a follow up video of your rematch against the Indian with the new clutch !
You read my mind. It's so dang cold right now though 😂😂😂
Yeah, sometimes aftermarket stuff can be a major improvement, but other times they're a hornet's nest of new problems.
Absolutely. If I had the extra money to spare a potential problem, I'd do it.
Braver than me brother lol. Well done !
What size allen key did you use to remove exhaust bolts?
Nice work bro! 40k miles seems really low for a stock clutch pack-IMO. I've got 142k miles on my stock clutch on my Valkyrie. It gets ridden pretty hard.
I'd been tempted to go aftermarket in your situation just because the OEM failed so early.
142K 🥺 Well.. only reason I say that's a good number, we've had other 9s replaced around that mark. That's dope, though. 👌🏾
Awesome video man!!! I love the “I can figure this out” mentality. HAHA I also love the spiritual impact wrench moment. I felt it.
I was genuinely blown away 😂😂😂😂 funny thing is, that impact wrench is dirt cheap but can handle everything on the bike. Should have gotten one earlier.
You should be proud of yourself for taking on the clutch repair. Yeah, it's a little scary but you did it and the use of OEM parts is the best way to go most especially on a classic M109R. Way to go young man! I knew you could do it while I was watching the Indian race.
I'm just getting started. I want the skill to do any maintenance job on this bike. At least in the owners manual for now. Valve clearances are the big one.
Nice video thanks for making and sharing! I have a 09 m109r is your manual the same for my bike? I finally got a m109r last month trying to learn as much as I can.
Yep, should be the same. ✌🏾
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
Clutch basket or the tube nut is loose.
HAHAHAHAHA, I just realized at 1:27 that's my video you're watching!
Oh damn, I just got to the part where you shouted me out, LOL thanks man. You've come so far from this video it's awesome!
Lol, had to give credit where it was due.
I HEAR YOU LIKE STOCK....DO YOU AGREE WITH PUTTING YOUR 109 ON THE DYNO?????
Of course.
Thanks man. Was the kit expensive?
I honestly don’t remember. I would go to suzukipartshouse.com and price out the plates. It’s been years since I’ve done this.
Okay. I've been looking on ebay. It's so many different brands and kits, with and without the gasket or springs..did you replace your springs too?
@@mrhaggard364 I did replace the springs. I wasn’t looking for added performance so I went with an OEM clutch. Wanted reliability.
Did you had to remove the clutch cable in order to change the platea?
No.
Isn't the gears and clutch the #1 issue on this year of M109r so stock may not be the best option?
Gear issues doesn’t involve the clutch plates. Clutch plates weren’t a problem but getting oil to them with the push pin was. Suzuki added an extra plate to the newer 109s clutch basket but I kept mine the standard number. Runs fine.
Great video. Thank you so much. I have an M90 which I have to the clutch on.
Sure thing. Similar concept.
OT a bit - roughly a week ago, I bought the same fold-in / fold-up chair 😀 Really handy to not have hip-muscles pain the next few days, when you have to work on the bike 🙂 Thumbs up.
Ride hard & ride safe.
Lol! Thanks for dropping in. Be safe out there.
@@BrandonBicasso Oooh I'll do my best - you can count on that 🙂 BTW I did a lot of work on the Suzuki VS800 and VS1400 and I'm to replace the stator & regulator/rectified on my C90T (feels more like chores than fun work), but - being very candid - I think there were and still are a lot of 'first time done' 's for each service action - so sharing your experience is (IMHO) invaluable to someone with less to no experience. If nothing else, those folks won't stumble upon some shenanigan, like you and I have, possibly 🙂
Thumbs up, bro - be safe, too.
Patience and a service manual goes a long way! Good Luck!
Do you remember the size of the socket you used to get the large nut off of the clutch basket?
It was either a 30/32mm. It’s been awhile but that nut is pretty stout. Bought a Pittsburgh impact socket set from Harbor Freight to handle it.
Bro where did u get your kit at, i can't find it for 07 bully.
Local dealership or use an online parts catalog like www.suzukisportparts.com
See it's not so bad eh :) I really should buy all the right tools at some point and stop smashing my hands and such. I will one day.
Great knowledge man and great video!
Not at all. I'd still be dealing with that tube nut if not for the impact gun. Lesson learned, lol.
@@BrandonBicasso Yeah same as with forks and stuff....there's a reason impact guns were invented I suppose 😂😂
Hey bud where can I find a heel too shifter for the 109M??
I'm not sure. There used to be one available but that company is out of business. I'd search the M109R rider forums.
Absolutely correct, the right tools makes a Huge difference, plus I'm a big fan of power tools for expediting the job in a timely manner.
I learned how to change a clutch on my hyosung gv650, basically same process.
nice job
Did you have to adjust your cluch cable at all?
Yes, cable needs to be adjusted along with the push pin in the clutch basket. Grab a copy of the manual in the description of the video.
Great video. I very much appreciate your tips and recommendations. I know it’s been said on other comments but 40k on a stock clutch seems low. I’m in the same situation. My bike is a 13 with just over 41k and I’m thinking about replacing the clutch. I just replaced my clutch cable the broke during a trip. But no matter how much I adjust the cable I can’t seem to move the engagement zone further back on the clutch lever. In my mind I’m thinking it’s a clutch wear issue. Do you have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated brother. Thank you again for the video and links. Stay safe.
Have you tried adjusting the cable on the lower end too? Your cable could be stretched.
Thank you for your reply. Yes I did try adjusting the cable just yesterday. But after riding it today I think I actually made it worst. Not the back tire locks if I go into first with to much speed. It never did that before. As for the clutch cable it is new. I replaced it a few months back when it broke on the first day of a 9 day trip. I had to ride my bike home with a pice of string and vice grips on the clutch lever. Holiday weekend and everything was closed. But my clutch was the same way even with the only cable. If anything the new cable made it worse. I would be crazy grateful for any advice you have. I have never worked on a motorcycle clutch or a clutch on anything for that matter. Any help would be very much appreciated.
@@BrandonBicasso I have a new gasket on the way. I plan to pull the cover off the clutch and try to aghast it. Question, when you did yours did you drain all the oil first or just some of it? Last question. Do you know anything about the throttle return spring? For same reason my throttle doesn’t reset after I let go of it. Most times I got to twist off the throttle. Could this be an issue with a spring? Any ideas would be helpful and I would be extremely grateful. Thank you for your help. Respect 🫡
@@georgeyoung2336 Inside the clutch there is also a clutch pin adjustment, when the cables stretch this can move out of spec so if you can't get it adjusted correctly between the 2 ends of the cable that might be your next thing to look at. If its an 06 or 07 you may have a loose basket nut.
Great job.. Thanks for the tips..
I really enjoy your M109r videos! 💯💪🏿
Link to clutch kit and springs??
Suzukiparthouse.com for my previous parts but I ordered these from my local shop.
I use All Balls Racing for master cylinder rebuild kits and fork seal kit. Heads up, Fork seals can be a pain. It took me and a mechanic friend 4 hours and a lot of pain to get those rebuilt.
Thanks, Charles. That's why I haven't done them yet 😂😂😂😂 My local shop will let me use the special tools to make it easy, but I'm considering to just pay them to do it. 🤦🏾♂️
@@BrandonBicasso If you dont have someone to help you I recommend biting the bullet and paying them to do it. You can do it yourself but you will need the exact tools and a vice to get it done. My 09 Raider is at 50k miles and I can tell my clutch is getting weak too. That will be the next repair on my list. I have both master cylinders rebuilt, fork seals replaced, all new cables and 2 inch fatty ape hangers installed this year.
@@decapolis01 Yeah, I don't have one or an extra hand at all. I considered taking the forks off and taking them in to get changed to save some money. Might be the best option. And I could've gone longer on the clutch I think. Just couldn't do anything performance based.
Gold medal if u can do the shims can't wait.
It's coming! It will be a few weeks to post but it's coming.
Well done bud! The key is definitely to have the right tools! It saves your time and avoid you to breaking something! Congrats!
If you don't mind to share, how much did you pay for the spare parts?
I truly don’t remember but I think about $450 for the new clutch pack. I bought OEM parts instead of after-market 👌🏾
@@BrandonBicasso are u in the US, right?
Correct.
I have a '19 model with a couple thousand miles on it so far.. it will still be some time till I need to replace the clutch, but its good to be prepared for wt is coming.. maintenance for this bike down here in Brazil is quite complicated in regards to parts
May have to change my clutch soon (just got the bike, irritating!) and searched for videos. Your was right near the top of the list and I REALLY liked it!! Much appreciated! You got a new subscriber today.
Also thanks for the extra stuff you added to the description, helpful!
Sure thing, Alan!
Hey, brave of you to admit the issues. We all have these "moments" even if we plan but most of us don't tell anyone 😁 When you ask people advice and they come back at you quick and say "YOU MUSN'T forget to do..." this or that you KNOW they've got it wrong and have the good nature to want to make sure you don't do it wrong too 🤗
Absolutely. Spread the knowledge and keep moving forward 😁
Yesss sirrrrr my guy come change my clutch bro you a whole shop now 🔥 🔥
😂😂, give me enough time and I'll definitely figure it out.
whelp, sounds like that was an invitation to ask. Where's a good start for fixing my 90ci boulevard's second gear slipping into neutral? Or alternatively, what would a good quote for a shop price be?
That's super unfortunate. The last quote I got was close to 3K (on the upper end from a guess) because the entire engine has to be removed and opened to get to the transmission. Normally what causes it is a bent shift fork. Luckily, it's not fully broken and you can ride it long as you skip second. It will eventually break and causes more problems in the trans at some point. Safe bet is $2k-2.5K. If you do it yourself, probably a grand for the upgraded aftermarket parts (if you go stock maybe cheaper). But I have nowhere near the expertise to do that. The service manual shows you how to get to that point to replace it, though. It's a very detailed and lengthy job.
@@BrandonBicasso whelp, with that price it's out of the question to have a shop do it. Guess I'll have to figure it out.
@@BrandonBicasso thank you
@Chad Punte: Before you (or your mechanic) starts tearing down your bike, does it happen only after upshift or downshift? Sometimes changing the lever position by a tooth can reduce gear jumping or false neutrals by allowing your foot to push the lever further.
@@deormanrobey892 unfortunately, no. As I had to tighten that because it came loose and had to manually push the shift lever back towards a neutral position between shifts.
The complete diagnosis is that under neutral or minimal load after being sufficiently warmed up second gear with assumed zero clutch imput "falls" into neutral.
B.B. Always a pleasure viewing your content, very informative, and intuitive, how'd it go? Does it shift better? Anyways thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next one
Shifts smoother and stronger than before!
Hi, I have a question if you need to drain the oil from the pan before removing the clutch cover?
Nah, you don’t have to.
The gears in mine do not start when it warms up. I can't shift into first gear. Only when I lightly let go of the clutch handle, it enters. When I move, they go up and down without a problem. You had that?
@@BossBike sounds like your clutch cable is not adjusted properly. Do you have a copy of the manual? I would adjust that first before taking the clutch panel off. You’ll need a new clutch cover gasket if you do that. I have a copy of the manual in the description of the video.
@@BrandonBicasso I've thought about it, but it turns out to be ok. The play is well set. Yesterday, when I was downshifting at a standstill, the display showed 5,4,3,2 and each time downshifting was delayed by a second. As if in slow motion.
Do you have to take the pipes off to do the clutches of can you leave them on? I’m getting ready to do my clutches this weekend and I have a 07 also
Pipes have to come off. Can’t get the cover off otherwise.
@@BrandonBicasso I was hoping not but I want to do work on my bike. Also, I’ve never done anything but change the oil
Make sure you grab a copy of the manual from the link in the description. It’s not difficult but not cross threading the exhaust bolts is the main concern. The bolts are in a tight space so just be patient. Also, you’ll want the exhaust off so you can line up the new gasket for the cover and to get the torque pattern correct. They have to go on in a specific order so you don’t warp the gasket or cover. Nothing scary, just follow the order.
@@BrandonBicasso i’m going to download the manual now to get ready
Good job, yeah an impact driver has been a game changer for me. Just be careful when putting nuts back on with it.
Yeah, I was definitely careful. That was my first time using one but I've over torqued things before too. Not fun. It's only aluminum 😬
I love how polished your channel has gotten !!!!! Really really nice, Brandon !!!
Quality over Quantity 😁 Thank you for noticing the extra effort ❤️
Unless I missed it but you didn't mention about soaking the clutch plates in oil before installing. This is a must. They need to be properly lubed before install. Great job otherwise though.
Eh, I’ve always been told that too. Manual said nothing about soaking them actually. I soaked mine, but they’re gonna get soaked anyway when you start the bike 😂 Guess Suzuki doesn’t think it matters either.
Ask anyone who had to do the job again a few days later about soaking them.
@@guido1534 Actually, I’m wrong. There’s a part in there. “insert clutch drive plates... after applying engine oil to them”
@@BrandonBicasso they are "friction" plates. Anything that has friction needs properly lubed for assembly. Friction clutch plates could tear apart even though you fill up with oil after assembly.
@@guido1534 Yeah, but what about the whole theory on soaking them versus just dipping them in oil and slapping them in? I looked at it as they aren’t absorbing oil versus just lubricating the surface.
BB, well done young man, well done! Thanks for sharing and encouraging all of us to get our hands dirty even if we aren't well seasoned mechanics. So we are waiting on the test ride and review of the difference dot dot dot.
It's coming at some point. But I'm just like everyone else. Just more hungry to learn the work myself.
Nice job on the video and the extra special touch of including links to videos and service manual.
Sure thing, William.
Super helpful as per usual :)
Always trying to be 🤙🏾
Thank you for the information. Being a carpenter gives you the ability to use tools. The other important thing as you have stated are in the research.
True true
great video Brandon . I find working on my own gear very relaxing and rewarding ..
Does not always save you money at first but as your knowledge grows it def will in time
Exactly.
I can honestly recommend a lift. I don't like harbor freight, but I used the coupon to get their lift. Mine needed some TLC in the hydraulics department, but it works well. I just don't like getting the bike on and off the lift, so maybe an Abba lift is in my future. :)
The "right tool" thing is so true. I was struggling with a simple hammer drill in my old place in Holland to get window coverings up. All concrete, and my drill and bits weren't cutting it. Almost broke the drill and 2 bits were gone (cheapies). Then I decided to get a budget rotary hammer. Got it, opened the box, put the SDS bit in. Half a second of BBBRRAAAAAAPPP and I had holes at the depth I needed instead of me sweating and swearing and breaking equipment for 45 minutes.
I am preparing for valve clearance measurement (and correction if needed). As it's a semi-precision job, I bought quality feeler gauges, but also a Mitutoyo micrometer and a Mitutoyo calibration piece to ensure the micrometer is measuring correctly (it was), to ensure the feeler gauges are as thick as they are claimed to be. Maybe I'm too much of a nerd. It was also a great opportunity to spend some money on quality tools. :)
Yep, I'm preparing myself for the valve clearances soon too. I know mine will need to be adjusted so that's gonna take some serious focus. Last thing I want to do is drop a shim in the engine 😂😂😂😂
@@BrandonBicasso Put some shop rags into any holes that could catch the shims! I'm still out one oil fill cap in my truck that disappeared into the depths of the engine compartment. I'm more careful now with it's replacement. :)
Great Job !
Thanks, David!
hi, where did you get the lugnut attachment?
The socket? If so, got it from harbor freight.
@@BrandonBicasso thank you so much. what is the size ?
Did you do the clutch pin mod when you grind 3 sides down? Also I'm reading a lot of different opinions on how to adjust the clutch pin. Some say screw in to seat then out 1/4 turn. Others 1/2 turn. 1 turn. Ect.
So these plates need to be in any sort of direction when you remove them? Are there any markings?
No, plates just slot in the same order, no markings. I didn’t do the push pin mod. I had clutch shudder awhile ago but haven’t had it after changing my oil more frequently along with the plates. And I went by the manual’s directions on adjusting the screw.
There’s a copy of the manual to download in the description on this video.
@@BrandonBicasso Appreciate the response Brandon. Really appreciate the effort you put into the videos. I've watched a few now. It's really helped me get better acquainted with my m109r. Been working on Harleys for years andbim re learning things with this bike. I'm gonna pull mine apart tomorrow. My issue is I thought my clutch was slipping because it was really bad. Turns out someone said that the clutch lever play needs to be checked at full throttle. Sure as shit I noticed the clutch lever tightening when I cracked the throttle which in turn was putting too much pressure on my clutch cable. Now I'm wondering if the clutch pin backed off and is allowing too much play? Have you noticed your clutch slack tightening at open throttle? If so how much? This has me wanting to open my basket to see what's going on but like I said. This bike is way different them most Harley big twins.
@@jaybourbon8608 it wouldn’t hurt to check the tube nut and basket but you’d have to readjust that push pin. The manual is easy to follow for average people so someone who already works on bikes shouldn’t have a problem. I’d check the free play at the lever end and at the lower end. I’ve had that bolt loosen from the bottom and completely lose the clutch. I’ve been tracking a problem lately similar to clutch drag but I think my issue is more electrical and related to my fuel tuner.
@@BrandonBicasso So get this Brandon. When I first rode the bike that little button behind the clutch lever was angled because the tab that holds it in place broke. It shifted and was getting caught between the lever and the clutch perch. I had to replace that first off. Thought that was my main issue.
I checked the lower adjustment and it's good. Everything is tight.
So you gotta tell me. Do you notice your clutch lever tightening up and taking out the slack in the lever when you nail the gas? Mine really tightens up a lot. That's what has me so concerned but I'm hearing these bikes do this? Can you confirm?
Hey Brandon thanks for the tips. I’m preparing to do the same job on my 9. I just went to my dealership and there doesn’t appear to be an OEM clutch kit. The price for all plates and springs is over 700 individually from Suzuki. How/where did you get your clutch components?
I’m not sure which kit they used but all of my parts were direct from Suzuki ordered through my Suzuki dealer. It cost around $450 for the parts.
Like your Video I’m slipping in second gear could the oil be low why not after market parts ?can I go with news springs truss me I’m loss
Brave soul LOL great video! Thanks for link to Joe too!
💪🏾!
Well done man!
Hi bro great stuff man see you in the next one.😎👍👊
❤️❤️❤️
what was the mileage on your m109r that time?
40K~
@@BrandonBicasso pretty good for it
@@hellamps Beginning to think what I thought was a clutch slip was actually fueling issues. Thinking I could’ve gotten more out of those plates.
@@BrandonBicasso lol. Anyway, new clutch is a new clutch
Thanks for this, totally agree with your tips. Hopefully my replacement is a good ways off :-). If you don't mind me asking, what motor oil are you running?
Mobil 1 10W 40 👌🏾
The synthetic 4T, I'm assuming? I was either going to try that or Amsoil, still deciding, but leaning to the Mobil 1 4T (due to wide availability). I switched a couple of years ago to the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. I had significant oil consumption after moderately hard mountain and combined highway riding after changing to that oil (I had to add a quart of oil before leaving for the trip home, so it used a quart in under 500 miles). This wasn't caused by the overfilling/leaking issue that so many have experienced. I never noticed that it used any oil prior to that (I was running Castrol then, I believe). I have since read that some others say they've experienced similar with synthetic and/or the heavier 50 weight oil (a wide variety of mixed opinions and experiences on that one, let me tell you). Do you have any significant consumption with yours? Sorry for all these questions!
@@bw6480 Nah, maybe half/full quart over time. Takes awhile. I switch between the 20W-50 and the 10W-40 depending on the season. I normally switch to the thicker oils during the hotter season and swap to the other in the winter.
@@BrandonBicasso Cool, good to know. I'll let you know what I go with (and knock off the questions for a while 👍).
Damn skippy! Thanks man, good tips!
Sure thing!
@@BrandonBicasso when i bought my 2006 V-max i was highly considering the M109R LE! Sexy bike!
look like it's not a easy task great job
Wasn't bad at all. Just have to sit down and go for it. If I didn't check the extra parts for security, would've only needed to change the plates. It's fun, though : )
sure it is fun I have 2014 yellow boss I love it . my dream color and bike
Solid advice!! The rule is PPPRIPPP
Piss
Pour
Preparation
Results
In
Piss
Pour
Performance
Well done. I'll follow up in Feb. Right now, STILL riding. Ain't the only 1, out here in the cold.
Me either. Was in 32 degrees a few days ago. The show doesn't stop unless there's rain or snow.
@@BrandonBicasso Show stops 4 me when it SLEETS. A 10 minute ride back home, took an hour.
@@mongoslade5248 yeah, I hate getting wet 😂😂 I'd ride in the desert or in sub 20s before I do that.