Aprilia RSV4 R - SAS (Secondary Air System) removal without block off plates
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2017
- This is a method I have seen on an Aprilia forum posted by Amauri.
With this method you will not need the dedicated block off plates.
Getting the block off plates on the engine is pretty complicated as you will most likely need to drop the engine.
No engine dropping needed here. Only an NPT 1/4 tap, x2 NPT 1/4 plugs and one rubber plug for closing off the hose connection on the air box.
Disclaimer:
This video was made to show you what I did on my motorcycle.
I will not be responsible for any damage that may occur if you try to re-create this video or part of it.
Anything that is done according to this video is at your own risk.
Other than that, smile and have a great day :) - Авто та транспорт
Thank you. I've been looking for things like this that I'll have to do. Picking up my bike sat! I'll probably do a video for them under my Oneops account. Very helpful though.
Look forward to checking out more of your videos.
Nik Scott, thanks man and congrats on the new bike!
I hope the video helps you with getting this done on your bike :)
Is your bike pre 2016? Seems like the rear bank is harder to access on the 2016+ bikes. Also is this necessary for a road bike with a race or Gabro ecu? I don't plan on ever dynoing my bike. This seems like a lot of work lol.
Yes, it's a 2014.
Unscrewing the ABS pump should free up some space.
No need for race/Gabro ECU with this mod.
If you don't plan on ever dynoing your bike, you have no need for this mod.
I dont plan on having my 2013 Tuono Dyno'd but I still removed this system when I had my valve's adjusted. With it removed there is less clutter by the engine and should let air flow a little better. V4's need all the cooling that can be had. I noticed you didn't demonstrate tapping the front port. I was going to plug mine off this way but it looked like I'd have to drop the radiator to gain access to it.
I already tapped the front before shooting the video. No problem at all with getting the right angle.
@@dewhead101 Thanks for the helpful video.
Aren't stock ecu mapping designed to compromised the excessive excessive oxygen reading from the system? Won't blocking off the air injection system causes too low oxygen reading and leads to lean fueling?
That's correct. This is relevant for someone who's remapping 👌🏻
can I just block the pipe? I have the race ecu. Error codes? Do you know which hose is it on the tuono 2017?
Yes, you can just block the pipe. This method is more for the esthetics.
With a race ECU there will be no error codes when removing the unit.
The hoses on the 2017 Tuono are the same as seen in the video.
I just have to block the one hose you hold at 00:59 coming out of the air box. Is this correct? Do the annoying exhaust air pop offs get eliminated after this? Any error code with the stock ecu?
Correct. Blocking off that hose will do it.
Popping will decrease allot but will not be eliminated. With this and a good ECU mapping you can get rid of almost all of the popping.
Yes, there will be an error code with a stock ECU. I don't remember the code.
ok thanks
Good luck brother
I imagine this would eliminate the burbling sound on decel if you wired the butterfly valve on the exhaust open? 🤔
In theory, if you had a map with perfect fueling, this mod would eliminate back-fires because no oxygen is being pushed into the exhaust manifold to encourage burning of unburnt fuel.
In reality, I have a stock race ECU (no custom mapping) and it still pops and crackles. Less, but it does.
No matter how good you vacuum and clean out out the shavings... there will always be some left behind. Should have greased the tap so the shavings stick to the grease, but I’d still be concerned something was left over.
Tal Kabessa was that on the inlet side of the motor or outlet (exhaust)?
@@Subi_doo It's on the exhaust side.
Tal Kabessa I wouldn’t be to concerned if the only passage was straight to the exhaust and and out the muffler. If it had any chance of making its way into the oil, I’d just plug it with a bolt and clamp.
Pretty sure the O2 is for scrubbing unburned fuel in the catalytic converter. The palladium catalyst for the reaction needs O2 or it won't work.
Precise. If you're running a slip-on or full system it's no longer needed.
I picked up a used 2017 RSV4 with this done (except they pushed a bunch of JB Weld SteelStik into the tubes) has anyone ever received a CEL fault code from this? GuzziDiag says:
P0155
P0150
P01401
P01407
All pointing to the front throttle body and front O2 sensor. I pulled the front TB and I can find nothing wrong with it other than needing to be polished up a little. Is it possible the SAS removal is causing the faults? Tempted to try and remove the SteelStik plug and hook it back up to see if that'll keep the codes from popping back up.
So P1412 and P1413 would point to the SAS being disconnected. If you have a race ECU installed or the race map flashed, disconnecting the SAS will not throw codes.
In regards to the codes you're seeing, did you get a chance to connect the bike up to GizziDiag/IAWDiag and erase the codes? If the codes come back I would look at the connectors to make sure they're clean and connected good.
I did erase the codes, I don't think it has a race map flashed on it (rather new to this) and the SAS pump is still connected to the electrical plug. Reading a few more threads that's kind of what I'm thinking is I might just need get the TB connections cleaned and clipped in better, though I suspect the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. Since they're cheap I figure might as well with 17k miles on it. Thanks for the response!
Good luck!
And make sure to do valve clearance on time!
I don't know what the last owner did with your bike but these bikes are pretty reliable and don't break down (as long as you do valves on time).
Thanks! Yeah unfortunately the dealership wasn't able to help with what the prior owner did other than put 17k miles on it in only two years and there seems to be a lot of sand in various places. So I figure I should probably do a check of the valve clearance at the very least soon. I'm also assuming that no one has ever done the fork oil in that time either so that's long overdue.
@@dewhead101 By the way I replaced the one O2 sensor that wasn't within spec and the check engine light went away after a while (clearing the codes didn't work).
can u explain me what is it for?
deebasny, in order to get a precise air/fuel ratio reading when on the Dyno, it's recommend to remove the SAS system.
The reason to remove it is because the SAS system basically lets fresh air flow into the exhaust manifold in order to promote detonation of left over fuel that wasn't burnt (Euro 4). This fresh air is also picked up by the air/fuel ratio sensor that they stick in your exhaust while on the Dyno.
What happens is that it will read a leaner a/f ratio because of the fresh air in the pipes.
oh thx. but there is no point changing this for normal use on a daily basis road ?
deebasny, exactly, there is no reason to remove it for regular daily use or a stock map, although it will decrease the amount of popping and crackling from the exhaust because there is no oxygen to promote burning of the leftover fuel from combustion.
If you like the popping, leave it ;)
The WHOLE video was the explanation 🤙
I highly recommend not tapping that hole without being able to remove the plate to be 100% sure there are no metal shavings inside the motor this is a very very very ignorant thing to do