2009-2014 Murano Alternator Replacement
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- I've captured some of the key steps involved in replacing the alternator in 2010 Nissan Murano.
I didn't get to capture this in the video, but please note that "Service Engine Soon" light came on after replacing the battery and alternator. ODBII reader showed 2 instances of P0603 codes. This could've come any of the following:
1. While I attempt to drive the car with the alternator and battery going out until the car died completely.
2. Dozens of times I was connecting and disconnecting the battery terminal during testing and replacement.
3. Battery was disconnected for nearly 10 days while working on this replacement because I had to wait for parts and tools to arrive.
I clear the codes, and so far it has not come back. If it comes back regularly, I'll do a follow-up resolution video about it.
Very nice video. It took me 2 hr 30 min to remove the alternator and 15 minutes to slide the alternator back in and install the bottom bolt. I found it very difficult to install the 2 wire connectors to the alternator. I returned the next day and remove the radiator overflow tank and the bracket that held it in place. I then removed the upper alternator bracket that is attached to the engine with a 12mm socket. Then remove the two attached wires to that bracket. With the 2 wires being loose it was then easy to install the 2 alternator wires. Then attached the alternator upper bracket loosely to the engine. It was then easy to install the upper alternator bolt by reaching in from the right side of the Murano. Your video is far better than the skimpy instruction in the shop manual.
Wow, that's pretty quick. Good job on further improvising to work on those connectors. There is hardly room in there, so I had to cut the wire and splice them later. My wires and connectors attached to it was literally falling apart, and looking back, I think the alternator may actually have been good, but it was the melted wiring that made it look like alternator was going out. I saw other videos where this connector was also melted as well.
This video is very helpful. I now believe it is the melted wires you talked about as the alternator goes in & out. The Shop is quoting me 6-7 hours labor. That’s insane.
If you search in UA-cam, you can also see other Murano alternators having the melted wire problem. With the melted wire, I can see why it was charging on and off, and then of course it will eventually just go out. With all that on/off charging, not sure if the voltage regulator inside the alternator gets damaged as well. It is a lot of hassle to remove and install alternator for this model, so I can see shops wanting to charge for 6-7 hours. Ask them if they can do it without dropping the AC compressor, because if they do, they'll charge you more for that work and also for recharging the AC.
Looking back, I should've just try to replace the alternator wiring harness instead of going through all the heavy work.
The space is sort of tight to get the wiring connector out with hand, but if you are going to replace it,
you don't care to break it and could use a long nose plier to get it out.
This is the wiring harness I bought and it fits 2010 Murano.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VK5BT9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@DIYLifeSkills Thank You!! You are wonderful.
@@DIYLifeSkills You have to "drop" the AC Compressor...
*But*, you don't have to take it out. Remove the bolt that holds the coolant line brackets under the compressor, and between the compressor the compressor and oil filter (from the wheel well), and let the compressor hang on its hoses.
This gives you enough room to slide the alternator out of the hole left by dropping the compressor.
It's pretty amazing how many 1000's of ft. Torq's are on these bolts. It's almost like Nissan hires folks to over Tork everything. I had to go buy a impact gun rated at 1000 FT lbs to get the lower nut off the bolt. Working on the upper invisible bolt now but taking my time. I do own a sawzall LOL.
Good job !!! It is very helpful. Thank You.
Огромное спасибо за инструкцию по снятию генератора !
Рад, что это помогло
This is real friends. Nissan is one of the most unfriendly cars to work on. They consistently don’t care about the people who have to fix there cars. It’s almost like they intentionally make it difficult.
For sure detail design on maintainability is lacking. We all know the alternator will fail, so why hide it make it difficult to access.
One of the bolt is nearly invisible and unneeded a second hand to reinstall it because it was impossible to do it myself.
They do do it intentionally they want people to bring their cars to get serviced at the dealer ship only
@@user-mq2gt4xc9i maybe. But a lot of the stuff just seems like poor design. Makers like bmw I would agree with , it is clear that they do things to make it hard to work on, but it’s not because of poorly design crappy car.
Great job.....very understandable and clear video!
remember to never buy a Murano. lol great write up and i hope i don't have to ever go through this for an alternator.
This will be my last Murano. :-)
Had a AAA Shop put mine in and after aprox.500 miles the new one stopped working,I bet they crossed the wires,and to top it off they said they replaced it as a 1 time courtesy after 4 months ,and they charged $1100 the first time .I should have watched your video and done it.I have put clutches in Honda cars and rebuilt motors but I was too busy with other stuff to do it at the time.And to put more pain on it they put in a remanufactured alternator the second time.
Hmm…failing only after 500 miles? Man they must’ve put in some really cheap stuff. Looking back, so many Murano alternator wires connectors are melting and now I’m suspecting that it might’ve been just the connector that failed.
If you’ve worked on clutch and engine, then this is easier job than those.
Really the only struggle is the confined space to remove the alternator. However, if you disconnect the AC hoses and get the compressor out of the way, then the alternator slips out easily…but you’ll have to recharge the AC with freon. In fact charging AC is also not a big deal, but I didn’t have the machine to evacuate the freon safely and I felt guilty about just spewing out freon to the atmosphere which is illegal…though I know many people do it and don’t care.
If your alternator acts up again, examine the connector wiring carefully.
Thanks for replying.
Often, a rebuilt alternator is better than new.
"New" from most stores (AutoZone & Advance top this list) is made in China. The Chinese junk is no comparison to the original Mitsubishi unit that was made in Japan.
A quality rebuilder will use high quality brushes, regulators, rectifiers, & bearings - sometimes even producing a better product than the original.
The problem is finding a "quality" based shop.
@@501Bravo yup going with no name cheap brand to save few bucks will get you to repeat this nasty work all again. I went with Bosch.
Nice job!!
Do you have a Murano?
I've done this once myself and I told myself I'd rather pay the 1000 next time. Now I'm planning on upgrading my alt for my stereo. 🤷♂️ atleast I got some practice.
Hahaha…I thought few times myself too why did I started this when the darn alternator wouldn’t come out. But now that I know the trick, I think I can do it quicker with less frustration. Good luck on stereo upgrade.
This job is no where near as hard as you made it seem. I’m glad you saved a few dollars. I don’t know how valuable your time is. But you took way too long and took off way too many things.
Yeah that was my first car repair in long time and gave me some trouble. What things do you think I didn’t have to take off?
You would have had plenty space if you removed the fans and radiator good video
Actually the easiest would be to disconnect the AC line and lower the AC compressor and that’ll make a lot of room to take out alternator easily than removing radiator, but didn’t want just discharge Freon to the atmosphere since I didn’t have Freon evacuation kit.
You unscrewed the compressor by hand??? I could not get it off 😫...got the bottom nut but not the top. Should screw the bottom back in and start with the top screw 🤔🤔
Sorry, I missed this message until now.
I didn't have too much trouble with the AC compressor bolts but I believe I had to use a breaker bar on the top bolt.
However, both bolts on the alternator gave me some troubles.
First the bottom one stripped because it was on there super tight and I stripped it using a 12 point socket, and head to purchase a bolt extractor socket to get it out.
The top alternator bolt is nearly visible, and you need few long extensions to reach it. I had to get a second person to help me to hold the alternator,
when I was both removing and installing the alternator back in. It was nearly impossible to do by myself due to confined space.
Always use 6 point sockets (vs. 12 point sockets) to avoid stripping the bolt, it's a bitchy when the hard to reach bolt strips.
Also, do me a favor and let me know if your alternator wire connector is melted. Many are reporting this problem, and I'm thinking the real problem was the melting wire/connector.
Dont know if you still active but im looking for those sockets you used that are flower shaped, the same thing happened to me with the bolt stripping ughh
I'm still active, but just taking short break for injury recovery.
That socket you are referring to is called "THINKWORK Bolt Extractor Set", and I got it from Amazon.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0869BR8MG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@DIYLifeSkills THANKS I SPENT LIKE 7 hours outside in the sun taking things apart and that last bolt was really something OMG
@@mythicmagic6413 7 hours in this summer’s heat is rough. LOL. Yup tight location and really stuck in there. Be sure to use 6 point socket. 12 point sockets tend to slip and can strip the bolt head.
Also check to see if you alternator connector melted. I saw many people also have melted connector issue, and looking back I think the alternator may actually have been OK but it failed due to connector harness.
@@DIYLifeSkills mine wasnt melted i squeezed the connector to unlock then oushed it out with a long flathead
@@mythicmagic6413 nice. Mine gave me a grief.
i have a 2010 and also broke the plug when removing. it was lost in the mess of tools and im having issues rewiring. the new plug i recieved has all black wires but the ones coming out of my harness are yellow/black, grey, and red. all i can seem to find is information on the colors shown in your video. someone help please
My replacement wire colors didn’t match either. So what I did was just match the position inside the plug and don’t worry about the color. As long as you match up each location of wire as if they were plugged in and it’ll be the correct connection.
real is hard job i was do that before 3 years and now i have same problems and i have to do the job in weekend
Oh no. Get a good alternator this time.
Hey .. so im trying to chenge my elternitor connector and i have a 3 black wires and 1 yellow 1 grey 1 red . What color connectig to what color ??? pls help me ... im stuck here !!!!
Don’t worry about colors. What’s important is that you match up the wires in right sequence.
Going from left to right, just match the sequence of wires.
wow torch wrench you were not foolin around.
Hehe
Did you have trouble with getting heat after you replaced your coolant?
Everything, including heat worked just fine after alternator replacement and refilling the coolant.
However, I think I may have accidentally pulled out the upper radiator hose slightly during this work,
because few weeks later, the upper hose came off and leaked all the coolant.
ua-cam.com/video/NAkoOKYYsVs/v-deo.html&ab_channel=DIY%26LifeSkills
So at this time, I did have trouble getting the heat. But once I refilled the coolant and drove the
car for few minutes (to allow coolant to circulate), the heat came on just fine.
But I saw dirty particles floating up while refilling the coolant, so I'm ready to do 3 day deep clean
flushing, but waiting for warmer weekend weather for that.
I have trouble to match the color , can you help which color should go where
Mine didn’t match color either. So I matched it by their position. For example, connect left most wires together and continue in that sequence
It’s important that you match the wire positions and ignore the colors (if they are not in same sequence). If you don’t match the wire ordering, you could either damage the alternator or it won’t work at all.
@@DIYLifeSkills that is the reason I asked you, how did you do your?
@@mirwaiszaland4843 I mentioned in the video and explained above. I matched the wires by their position/location and by color.
Would of had a thumbs-up if your video actually showed you doing the work. Essentially your video could of been MUCH less if you were straight to the point instead of the lecture of your personal reasons for doing most things that are really of no concern.
I totally agree. Wife kept saying too long. LOL. My excuse is this was my first major UA-cam video and my editing and story lining some 80 video clips were not too strong back then. I’ve learned a lot since. I thought about redoing the video to be more concise but lost original videos. I’ll see if I can just do it from a post video and crop and re-edit.
BTW, looking back, I’m reasonably confident that problem was likely melted connection wires and perhaps not the alternator going out. I’ve seen so many Murano alternator videos with melted wires.
What is the part number from Amazon that you ordered
I looked up the old order and it is showing several dozen different numbers that is not specific to Murano. That tells me this particular alternator connector is very common (as it listed bunch of compatible cars).
Here is what you do. Search for “3 wire alternator regulator plug harness” for your 20xx Murano.
There are bunch of sellers of this common connector. Just look for compatibility in the descriptions. They are cheap $6-9 bucks.
Looking back, I think the problem was the melted wires and connector and possibly not the alternator itself. If I had to do it again I would’ve tested the old alternator with new wiring first. But then again, it’s pain in the butt to get the alternator out so it’s not a bad idea to to just replace the whole thing.
Can you use a z5o alternator on a z5I thanks
Hi Dag, I'm not familiar with z50 and z51. What's that referring to?
Ho did you do wire order in color
Wire color sequence may not match, so connect them based on each wire position.
Green-sky blue
Brown -black
Yellow-red
Never buy Nissan, they're not easy to work on and parts are expensive