Відео

@@ODBGurl-l9e For sure… :-)

@@tastyfishsauce4410 I’m not 100% sure as I did both at the same time. That said, I know the cable stretched and there was not enough tension to move the level down to shift into higher speed gear. So I would try to tighten the cable first since it’s simpler work. But if that doesn’t fix it, then do the fluid change. The oil can’t be good after 35-40 years and it had a lot of metal shaving residue in it. So if you haven’t changed the oil, you probably should change it so that you can keep this going another 10+ years.

@@tastyfishsauce4410 Also, my wheel hubs cracked and was loose. So this could have taken some rotation power as well. You can see in the video, when I lift up the back side, the wheels did rotate but when I sat it down, it didn’t have enough power to thrust forward. Actually, this might the easiest and first thing that you should check. Let me know how it goes.

@@tastyfishsauce4410 At this point, I feel the engine and transmission is pretty solid and the weakest point is the cracked wheel hubs but these are like $100+ for two rear wheels. So I’m constantly looking for someone selling this so that I can buy it for parts and keep this going for a long time.

@@tastyfishsauce4410 If you look at my channel, you can see I’ve worked on many lawn mowers and had the chance to change it to a newer one and sell this but I feel 35-40 year old Honda was more solidly built so I sold others. Starting from the deck, it’s solid and thick and has no rust whereas newer lawn mowers that I fixed and sold the deck was thin and nearly all of them had rust starting although they were only about 10 years old.

@@EdgarAlvarezS I’ve been so busy with work but this is one of the DIY fixes that I’ll do this year during a vacation. I’ll reply back once I post a full repair video.

@@XenialMusic No trans shifting issues. But I rarely floor the gas pedal on start.

@@andrewhkim If you google “high temperature glue” you’ll find several.

@@andrewhkim JB has this glue which says it’s for metal so I’m not sure how safe or reliable it is to use on glass. www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBOBY74/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_S1YCP9G841GFAS3A1KG1?linkCode=ml2&tag=hyonim-20

@@andrewhkim The glue that I’m using in this video is holding up my mirror for more than 2 years now. So this is also a good one to use.

Even after making the video, I still keep forgetting how it comes off and have to go back to the video.

I'm burning about 1 quart per every 5000 mile oil change. I bought this car at 105K miles, and I've been only doing 5K mile oil change as 10K mile oil change cause serious carbon build up on piston ring, which causes oil burning.

I know this cleaning probably helped some but probably only by 1/4 quart every 5K miles. BG has this product that supposedly cleans the carbon build up on piston rings, and this is what I'm going to try next.

www.amazon.com/Bg109-Engine-Performance-Restoration-Makers/dp/B00IAPLIDK/ref=asc_df_B00IAPLIDK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740373&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3926538468400984815&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027782&hvtargid=pla-569805723483&psc=1&mcid=18d7cf6321d53a32a8f7e18c025ec530&gad_source=1

@@DIYLifeSkills I would love to see that video pop up when you try it.

@@DIYLifeSkills Yes the piston rings were also my go-to for the oil-burning but others say that it's just an internal leak somewhere.

Never heard of added but I’ll check it out. Also BG seems to have some products that supposedly clean carbon build up on piston rings which cause oil burning on high mileage cars and I’ll be trying that on my car in the near future.

Combination of GDI engine and 10K or higher miles oil change have really contributed to rising carbon build up. So I’m doing 5K mile oil changes now.

Also the carbon build on the intake valves were so hard baked on there that even overnight soaking didn’t seem to soften it. So I had to literally open the top side of engine and scrub the carbon off chunk by chunk. So it would be great if BG or Redex products can dissolve the hardened carbon which will make this job much easier.

I have several friends that drive Toyota and they are very reliable car overall, but 10K mile oil changes are causing all the cars over 120k miles to burn oil. And once they reach 180k miles, it’s burning literally 1 quart every 300-500 miles so they are carrying oil in their trunk.

What is that? Is that the curved tip on top edge of the trunk?

@@7CAJONEZ yup. All they needed to do was use stronger metal gear. That gear is not very strong. Also the side mirror gears also break in similar way.

@@johnhefter3815 make sure clamp is really loose and not obstructing the hose. Afterwards, it’ll take some wiggling back and forth. In my case, I used a long screwdriver to help pry up from all sides. If you have small can of penetrating oil spray or even W2, it’ll help to slide the flex hose out. It’s in there tight for a reason being once the airflow amount is determined by MAF sensor, it doesn’t want any air leak to alter that which will mess up fuel to air mixture ratio since modern car performance is very sensitive to the accuracy.

Thanks for the feedback.

@@laloalamo4213 That’s pretty fast work. Must be quite handy person.

@@gruntbot1227 if your compressor and outside fan run and cool then its not your capacitor. This seems to happen in hot summer when AC is constantly running without giving time for HVAC system inside the house a chance to cool and then the sensor doesn’t report correct signal to start and shutdown properly so it keeps on turning off and then back on. Mine is carrier too, and replacing the motherboard fixed the problem for more than a year now.

@@gruntbot1227 motherboard was little over $100 and labor was $200 for me to replace it.

@@DIYLifeSkills I have a 2016 Carrier System that does not have a motherboard. It has eight components mounted to the sheet metal in front of the blower and then wires running to the motor. Two of the components are limit switches that I checked for continuity. One of them failed intermittently. I ordered two new ones from Amazon and will install them next week. I will let you know if that fixes the problem.

@@DIYLifeSkills While waiting for the limit switches to arrive, I did a full cleaning of the evap coils top and bottom using a vaccuum, then foam, then coil cleaner. What really surprised me is when I pulled the emergency float cut-off switch located right next to the evaporator drain. It was just covered with white gunk and was blocking the drain line. I had been pouring vinegar down the drain line but the access pipe is after the emergency cut-off float switch so I never thought to check it. I let the system dry for a full day, fired it up, and after 3 cycles, it began working normally. I change the filter every 3 months, but that gunked up float caused the water to back up into the evap coil and created a mold nightmare in the coils. The system must have an airflow sensor somewhere on it because once the airflow improved, the system fixed itself. Crossing my fingers that this was a permanent fix.

@@gruntbot1227 Great troubleshooting!!!

Agree. I was just in the mood to fix all worn marks in interior in preparation for a better priced sale.

@@DIYLifeSkills fair. Hope the new owner appreciates the work

Pretty much all GDI engines have this issue. It’s even worse in German cars.

Yes true! I have gs300,drives ok,but should have bought gs430 or 350 instead.

@@Re1nTs I have same regret. 350 is dual injection so it doesn’t have this carbon build up issue.

So you successfully replace the PCV?

Yes, and no. The pcv valve is nice and snug, but the hose did split at both ends. So at 8:30 pm, and needing to use her in rhe morning i just jammed the bad hose back on. The barb ended up being a hair past the split​, so i just clamped directly behind the barb. Already ordered the oem hose online and will be replacing that today after work. U bet I'll be putting some grease or oil on the end of that barb for a smoother install/extraction. But it's safe to say, after 140k the hose had little hope to last that long before getting brittle. Also worth noting, my local toyota dealership at 6/17/24 is charging $33.48 in house, and 20.89 on there online store...@DIYLifeSkills

@@danielscott9137 very pricey for short piece of hose, but I guess if it lasts 140k miles, it’s not too bad. Also my local Toyota dealer also posts cheaper online price but you have to order and wait a day or 2 for them out the order together. And then, they charged $10 bucks for online order handling fee, so online order is only good if you are buying many or expensive part but it can end up being actually more expensive on cheap parts so the handling fee.

Alright gotter dun, had to use needle nose pliers to add some persuasion on the hose. I realy like that idea someone wrote to use a small length of hose to put on the pcv valve to add some length to thread the valve in. I'll definitely do that next time.

@@danielscott9137 Great. You are good for many more years now. :-)

You can see the disconnect at around 3:05 time mark in terms of where it came from

​@DIYLifeSkills I got that part. I was trying to figure out if that hose connects to the intake manifold on the other end. I think it does from watching other videos. And I'm asking because is that a good place to do a seafoam spray treatment (vs taking off the entire air filter box to get to the throttle body)?

@@OldCootProductReviews I see what you are saying. I’ll have a look after I get home.

@@OldCootProductReviews I can’t tell clearly without removing everything but engine is scorching hot. It looks like it’s connected to brake booster vacuum line.

@@OldCootProductReviews also I’m kit 100% site which way the airflow is occurring. Even if air moves towards TB, you are only going to clean only partial front plate and back side won’t be cleaned. What’s important is you clean the round edges as that’s where heavy carbon build up occurs the most and you need to clean both front and back side.

You have to watch the full video. Likely the soldering on the control board has gone bad. For me, just one spot needed to be resoldered to make it work again. ua-cam.com/video/fLsdWS8KvF4/v-deo.htmlsi=4liMqPARYHXj0P2s

Maybe it depends on who you talk to? I had no receipt or purchase proof other than telling her I got it from Lowe’s.

@@DIYLifeSkills Fair enough, thanks. I'll try again. By the way, do you know anywhere on the web someone has posted the actual sizes of Moen 0-rings?

@@dongraves9944 You can find the complete part # on this link. assets.moen.com/shared/docs/exploded-parts-views/ca87480pt.pdf

Glad they helped. Thanks for the feedback.

I don’t have that year car so I’m not sure how PCV is removed

I knew the history of this car from the time when they bought this is and carmax was offering $1700, so I gave him $2,000. I thought about keeping it but decide to flip it for $4600 price since we don’t drive that much these days and we had 2 other car already.

Limited trim

Oops, spoke too soon, I’m not sure what trim those wheels are from

@@jamespyle8348 Yeah I have a Limited. These must be some obscure dealer option that was only offered at a few dealers because they're extremely rare.

@@jamespyle8348 This was a pretty basic V6 trim with no special options.

Great job and thanks for the feedback.

Watch 3:15 time mark on this video.

Great job. This is not a simple DIY. Yeah I usually also use OEM parts on cars that I plan to keep. As for plastic connectors breaking, just the connector plastic is replaceable and well the wiring and I have separate video on that.

I got mine from Walmart

www.walmart.com/ip/5265533901

It’s called Rhino ramps.

@@DIYLifeSkills thank you

​@@DIYLifeSkills the angle allows all the oil to drain?

It’s very annoying and likely repairman will try to get us to replace the entire unit. Just $120 control board plus labor should fix the issue and delay the new replacement for several years.

@@DIYLifeSkills Hey when you said delay new replacement. Do you mean when it does the off and on thing, it is an indication that the whole unit is getting closer to fail and break? Like the new motherboard will hold it off for a few years then you have to replace whole unit or just another motherboard replacement?

At what time mark connector are you referring to?

@@DIYLifeSkills At the four minute mark. Just behind the MAF.

@@cmhwilder I try to find name but I can’t. But since it has a vacuum hose connected to it, must be some sort of vacuum valve control

@DIYLifeSkills thanks. If I find out I will reply with it

Vapor canister purge solenoid.

Less than 1/8” over max should be OK, but if it’s more than 3/8” more, than you might want to take out some.

Engine oil has detergent so if engine parts that move up and down like piston arm, touch the oil in the pan, it can turn some oil into foam, which will inhibit smooth oil flow through various tiny holes in the engine. So it’s important to keep the engine oil close to max or just below.

@DIYLifeSkills ok I think it's less than an 8th thank you

Oh thanks for the kind feedback.

TEST THE ALTINATOR MY REBUILT ON KICKED OUT TO MANY VOLTS

Great job. Thanks for the feedback

@@DIYLifeSkills 🤝

@DIYLifeSkills also the dipstick was reading the oil level at a little under the middle of the 2 dots should I add more until it's almost to the 2nd dot?

@@DIYLifeSkills this is after adding the 6.7 quarts

@@PanicNoCap you want it close to the max line without going over. Just remember that it takes 5-10 minutes for all the oil ti make it down ti the pan. So I usually try to get close to the max without going over or keep it just below the max line.

True but we need to have that 60$ for it not to matter paying for it. When you need that 60$ for the kids food... you better bet we'll be that guy too.