How To Diagnose a Mazda Protege 5 That Cranks But Does Not Start - Fuel Pump/Relay Replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 тра 2018
- The video will help you figure out why your Mazda Protege Cranks but does not start.
This video may also apply to the following models:
1992-1993 Eunos 500
1997-2001 Mazda Capella/Mazda 626
1999-2000 Mazda Protegé (ES models only)
1998-2003 Mazda 323 Astina & Protege (Australia)
1999-2006 Kia Carens
1998-2002 Ford Laser
1999-2004 Mazda Premacy - Навчання та стиль
I FIXED IT!!! check relay, all fuses, pump, I cleaned connectors, all good. Additional, take out the ECU (under plate, passenger side) to reinforce with soldering iron all motherboard´s connection. During check on, I removed relay, connecting COMs with a small wire, switch on, trying to get electricity to the pump. I heard a small explosion, luckily nothing happened... from there, car started normally.
Thanks for the videos
Thanks man good info saved my a s s
Can you please make a video on how to get the ECU out to make some tests pls? Thanks for your videos they are very helpful
Any insight on no spark ? I followed your video to trace the power back to the switch. Im bot sure if the alarm has anything to do with it though. Has to be the ignition switch, lock cylinder or alarm. Any way to bypass the alarm ? Problem is I bought it from a repo company and dont have original keys or FOB. So the lock can now be turned with just a blank. All acc comes on. No ignition though.
I plan on doing this to my Mazda cuz I am having the same problem. But I don't know how to wire properly and don't know what connections you use to go into the circuit board. I'm trying to study this video to see how to wire it
Just ran into the same issue with my P5, the only question i have is where did you run the white wire off the solenoid??
I am cranking over my protege but its not starting. Then when i let go of the key i still hear the fuel pump going on and off. Could it be something tottally different
I have same problem, fuel pump relay not clicking. But hey, can u pls explain how did you jump those wires?? Thanks
Where does the line meet from the switch to the relay? How do you make a closed circuit?
Hey I have Mazda protege 2003. It starts but won’t turn over. I have tested the spark plugs and the distributor and it sparks and I tried spraying starter fluid in the carburetor but still won’t start ether. I have tried many thing but still no luck ! Please let me know what I can do!
I had a problem where my car would crank but not start and I couldn't hear my fuel pump. Fix: check all fuses are good by driver
side feet if all good, replace the fuel pump relay. I have the protege5 but same for all models of protege or 323
I’m having the same problem with my fuel pump on my 2000 Mazda protege! Need to run the additional relay like u did. The white wire u got connected to the red wire and it’s running to the switch and back to the old relay rite? I c where the blue and yellow goes and the black ground
Jadranko
So I ran a jumper to diagnostics box to ground fuel pump did not activate when key was in the on position. Bench testing actual pump it turns on. Bench testing pump in housing it turns on. Seems plugged up and with key fuel pump does not activate. I assume the jumper wire bypasses the relay. Also tested for power at harness that plugs into pump and did read voltage of approximately 28 on two of the pins. What am I overlooking here. Car cranks and wont start
I have the same issue right now fuel pump is good relay checks good but pump won’t prime. I get no power at fuel pump. How did you route the wires and hook up the relay? Do you have a video on that?
Not really. Most of the routing is covered in this video, but it is fairly hard to follow as I didn't draw it out. I currently have the car covered but if I move it later maybe I'll take a picture and label things. You can see everything in the video though. The only part I didn't talk about is getting through the firewall. It's a little rubber grommet. I think its above the clutch.
I’m having a similar issue. But here’s the catch: when my car doesn’t start the CEL flashes on and off really fast. There is no rhyme or reason when this happens, hot or cold. Messing with the key back and forth a bunch of times sometimes that works to get the CEL and the fuel pump primes. I need to check voltages but am unsure what to check for as I’ve replaced the main and fuel pump relays, the engine fuse, ignition switch and tumbler. It’s increasingly gotten worse so I’m unsure if the relay box is getting the juice it needs from the battery and the cables are the original from 03. Am open to suggestions including having the ECM tested. TIA
CEL light flashing isnt good... that sounds like a timing issue. Bad cam or crank sensor might cause it but I would probably pull the valve cover and look at the timing belt if I were you.
Timing seems fine. It’s on my list of things to do but there is charring in the relay box, cleaned that out, relays are replaced. Battery cables have corrosion and I pulled the battery which was swollen on the sides. Lately the consistent issue if I get it started, it will run fine but when I park it, does it again. When it does this I can hear the ECM wanting to come on but doesn’t (hence the CEL coming on and off super fast). So where I’m at with it currently is replacing the battery, new cables (I know I’ll need to splice) and checking the charging system. The cps cks are on my list of replacement items. Turning the key on and off eventually I get a CEL and fuel pump primes and she starts.
The only thing Im not sure of, is where is the white wire on the relay going ? Black goes to the ground you mentioned. Red to the switch you installed, relay, and fuse box. Yellow and blue to the fuse box. Is the white another ground ? Appears to be hooked to that bolt on the strut tower.
Did you get yours figured out?? I have the same question for the white wire
Two years on and this car still runs on The orginal $3 fan relay I'm using for the fuel pump.
Wassup bro, I have a request may you please provide me with a clearer picture and instructions of your wire diagram.
@@terrybelle420 dont think I have it any more.
@@terrybelle420 oops didn't see what video you posted on. I didn't make a diagram for that one. I think I used the factory service manual. what is the problem with your car?
@@terrybelle420 do you still need it?
@@mkautoaccesorios i could use it for sure. Fuel pump will cut out when i press the gas and want to stall but doesn't, then sometimes it does. Hard starts, then if not allowed to warm up will stall if i try to move it.
I have the same issue with my astin sp20, fuel pump does not prime on turn on position. I did the jumper trick and it did powered up the fuel pump and was able to start the car. However after a while the car idled rough and stalled. Is it safe to leave the jumper wire permanently so that it powers up the fuel pump every start up?
How u did the wiring
Been following the video but no dice with my Protege5.
I get a single click when turning the key. The engine turns extremely slowly and you can hear the belts move. I am able to crank by hand. Starter has been replaced btw. Any idea?
Check/clean all the connections on the ground wires. Also... faulty replacement starter is possible. I got a bad one for this car.
I just had my protege die on me today, I’m checking for spark right now, with the coil pack outside of the head and plugged up to a spark plug. And I don’t see. Spark, do you think my coil pack is dead? Is there a fuse for our coil packs?
I haven't messed with the coil packs on this car. I don't think there is any kind of fuse on the spark plug system. I took a quick look at your other video on this car... Given the age the crank sensor and cam sensor could also be suspect. I honestly don't drive mine much it's been parked all winter.
@@benjaminlately that’s what I was thinking next, I just bought a fresh coil pack and still didn’t see a spark, also thanks to your video, I checked my fuel pump and it’s working. I can hear it gobble up fuel when it’s trying to crank lol
2000 miles since I made this video and all seems well.
Can you make a diagram how to hook it up or where the why goes to the relay
cocopops61 i want the same
@@cocopops61 a bit late, but watch my no crank no start video. I have a diagram on that video.
Ive got a mazda 323 protege 1999. The car cranks but will not start. Is there any way i can confirm that its either the cam or crankshaft sensors. Just replaced the water pump which had seized a week ago. Car ran fine now wont start. Any help will be appreciated cheers
With the tools most people have around their house it's hard to figure out which one it is. You can use an oscilloscope and watch the signal, but it's probably not something you have. If I had to guess I would say the crank sensor went out. If the 323 is the same setup as the Protege before your water pump seized it was most likely dripping coolant on the crank sensor and coolant is very corrosive. If any coolant got into the sensor it would eat the contacts inside or make it do weird things intermittently. I had the same thing happen. I had noticed the coolant leak ahead of time so I quickly figured out when the car wouldn't start that the crank sensor was in the line of fire for the drip.
I was driving down the highway, accidentally shut the key off, when i put the key back into the on position the car did not start, I pulled over and tried to start it, it would crank but not turn over, pumping the gas peddle seemed to have a slight effect on the cranking but not as if it was trying to turn over. 2002 protege5 5 speed manual, installed a cold air intake about a week ago.
Not sure. You'll need to isolate if you have fuel pressure and spark. Fuel pressure is probably easier. This video should help with that. I'm thinking power issue but it is hard to say. I dont expect the ecu liked your idea much.
less likely issues ... Cam sensor, Crank Sensor, Timing belt skipped a cog or two.
I can confirm that the fuel pump is not turning on, also the ECU is not communicating with my OBD2 reader.
@@tylerbrown2580 Doesn't sound too good. Does the temp gauge peg on "H" with the car in the run position. That might be a fuse issue. It seems odd the OBD2 reader isn't able to see the ECU.
The temp needle was at H, also the 10A ENGINE fuse by the clutch peddle was burnt, i replaced it, and it fired right up, thanks alot for the help, glad it wasn't an expensive fix.
My girlfriend ran over a curb pretty bad. blew out two tires now it won't start. Any ideas?
Does it crank? If it cranks but doesn't start then it is probably the fuel or spark system. If it's a no crank then it's part of the ignition system. If it's an auto try shifting it to the neutral position and try to star the car. It's possible the problem is unrelated. If you provide more details of how it acts I might be more help. Take a look at my other videos. I have videos on both the ignition system and the fuel system.
What did the problem end up being in the end for you. I have 2003 MazdaSpeed protege
I think my problem is in the ECU or a bad ground wire with very high resistance. (Fuel Pump Replay) I just installed my own relay and used the body of the car for ground. I have a feeling my fuel pump wouldn't turn off in the event of a crash, but other than that it works fine.
Thanks for getting back to me!!
Have the same issue can you send me a diagram of how I can do this
Did you figure out how to wire up the relay? Send me the schematics/diagram and type of relay used to replace original. I have exact issue.
Hello do you have any diagram
So the B5B4 Black color cube is the fuel pump relay?
Yes
@@benjaminlately
Ok its not written in the owner's manual. Now i can change the rubber seals on the Fuel injector
Why didn't you buy a new fuel relay and just replace it. Unless you want to remotely turn it off for some reasons.
@@vincentlee2460because the relay was not the problem... The problem is the amount of resistance to ground on the coil. (Probably in the ECU or wire to the ECU) I could have reused the same relay, but it would have been more difficult than what I did. I have a 3D printer now. I could 3d print a new holder for the old relay with a different path to ground. The way I have it wired the ecu isn't in the loop. If I get in a car crash it's a good idea to be able to kill the fuel pump as the ECU won't be able to turn it off. Also... makes a good anti-theft device..
@@benjaminlately
Mine is still working so i don't meddle with it. Your wiring is just tapping the original pin with wires but adding a switch and fuse with better grounding.
what happened to the wheel chair racing?
2003 Mazda Protege, 2.0L, 160k miles
-Engine cranks over but engine will not start, no fuel pump priming noise, battery 12v
-Replaced: starter, fuel pump, harmonic balancer (was broken)
-Fuel pump relay bench test: Good
Anyone know what my next step should be? Service manual? Wiring manual/diagrams?
My fuel pump relay also bench tested fine. Does the fuel pump actually turn on when you turn the key to the run position? Cam and Crank sensors are the next place to look if the fuel pump is turning on.
I have replaced both in my car. Crank sensor is not much fun to replace due to wire routing. That sensor was my problem one time. Coolant leaks on it if your water pump starts to weep.
hmmm with a broken harmonic balancer.... Have you looked at the timing belt? If your timing was off that would also stop it from starting. It may have damaged the crank sensor or jumped the timing belt if things shook or snapped hard enough.
Already had cam and crank sensors ordered to replace when they arrive. I hear NOTHING from the fuel pump when I turn the key over. Plan to take my multimeter and follow the wires back to see if it is even getting current (check at relay and at the pump).
As I plan to sell of this car, I really did not dig as deep as the timing belt. Just want to get it running and sell it for a few more $ than what the junk yard offered.
@@DGooldy It's possible the car has the same problem as mine.... Watch the video starting at the 1:15 mark. You should be able to use the jumper trick to get the pump to activate.
Any chance you have a basic wiring diagram? You mentioned in a previous reply that you used a fan relay? I am only a novice as an electrician
what if it loses power or jerks when u drive
Cam or crank position sensors can do that. I've also replaced both on this car. If the car acts worse when you get it warmed up I suspect it is a cam or crank sensor. The cam sensor is on top of the engine and it's held in by one screw. The crank sensor is on the bottom of the engine on the passenger side (on on the front side of the crank pulley the drives all your belts.). It's a little involved to replace. The crank sensor ended up being my problem. If your water pump starts to go bad it will drip coolant on the crank sensor and cause it to fail as well.
Does this car have a fuel filter? If so ,where is it located?
Mine it crank but not staring it's mazda etude 1.6ie
$#it explained