Diagnose a Mazda Protege5 that Will Not Start - Will Not Crank Over - Starter Problems
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- Опубліковано 20 бер 2017
- As it turns out the ignition system in the Mazda is Protege 5 pretty straightforward, but without the information in this video you may have a hard time figuring it out. I know I did.
Watch this entire video before you replace you starter or start taking things apart. Symptoms for my car is that it would not crank over, but I could bump start the car without a problem.
Starter Replacement Video:
• How To Replace the Sta...
Overview of Recent Work on the Mazda:
• Mazda Sage Protege5: N...
This video may also apply to the following models:
1992-1993 Eunos 500
1997-2001 Mazda Capella/Mazda 626
1999-2000 Mazda Protegé (ES models only)
1998-2003 Mazda 323 Astina & Protege (Australia)
1999-2006 Kia Carens
1998-2002 Ford Laser
1999-2004 Mazda Premacy - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for the informative video! My wife's 2002 Protege had a very similar scenario. Problem: Battery getting weak, not charging. 1st I tightened the belt. good for a day then dead. Bought a new battery, installed it and it wouldn't even click the starter. Tested new battery and it was fine. So pure coincidence that at the same time old battery was failing another issue introduced itself. after watching your vid and doing the testing, I was suspicious of the alarm wiring. Even though the little red dashboard light was on indicating power, it alarm was doing strange things. When I first installed the new battery the horn started beeping and lights flashing so I suspected an issue there. Especially after watching your vid. Looked under the dash for that alarm fuse you referenced and found 4 cut wires. Then found the Alarm code box that they went to. It was tiewrapped to the damn steering shaft. The moving part. lol. Wires had been cut through by just the action of driving and steering. FIXED! And I was about to buy a starter at the local auto shops recommendation. Check that alarm wiring everyone! Thanks again!
Thank you for making this video
The side comment about shifting to neutral and then trying to start turned out to be the golden comment. After starting in neutral the car now starts in park also. I expect a relay had not cycled completely. Unfortunately, since now the car starts we may never know where the problem was. Thanks
Bro this random comment saved my life.. searched every for what to do.. thanks
Thank you ! You showed what I havent been able to figure out. The blower relay clicking. I was like wth is clicking over there ? Lol Now if I can just get it to start.
Your video is AWSOME!!!
🫡
Thanks for the great video! I have an intermittent ignition switch. Figured it out by checking voltage at the clutch switch.
Great video. Followed your advice all the way to the key switch. Found it was an old stupid dealer installed security device attached to the ignition. took that off and wired it straight back to ignition. and it started.
Yeah... mine is the same. I have a feeling the fuse to the security system either fell out of fried. The fuse on mine fell out. I talk about it in another video.
@@benjaminlately what fuse the 20 amp fuse?
@@jasonshuffles4933 uh. I don't remember . there is a fuse holder under the dash that only holds the alarm fuse. It was probably a 20 or a 15.
Thanks was a big help!
Thank you i learned a lot mechanical take advantage
Thank you
I recently had problems with my Mazda protege hatchback not cranking. I replaced the 100A fuse and got a new battery and new connectors, problem solved!
Great video I have a 2003 mazda p5 automatic I blew a piston on my old engine replaced it with a used one from japan now it only cranks but no start. I sent it to Mazda they told me I need a new ECU I’m looking for a FDZE ecu for a Automatic
good video.
thank you for the vid. I have a 2003 p5 and I almost felt like giving up. Your vid gave me hope and an idea of how to go about it. thank bro.
If you have a factory alarm system make sure to check that first. If it doesn't have power it will immobilize the car starting system.
I found out that it's the fuse box. The terminals where the ignition relay goes are fried. I had to bypass it with copper wires so the fuel pump can get power.
My p5 has no alarm.
mine was the ground wires, it would click then no power. replaced battery then worked fine, 2 days later same issue, thinking its the alternator I also took a look at the fuse box relay for power and its dead even with a power pack so its electrical, wiggled the positive then wiggled the negative suddenly there was power, so I replaced the whole ground even tho it looks good and its working fine now.
Excellent video! Now I have a lot more information to work with. Thank you!
Hi Benjamin. I have a 2002 Mazda Protege 5 that gives me nothing at all when I crank it....No horn even....BUT I do have headlights...?....tried to boost jump it first of course and still nada...my battery seems to be fine and should have enough to start it...I have narrowed it down to either the ignition(at $75) or the alarm system which I have no ability or knowledge to fix so it would have to go to a shop or follow your video to try and figure it out....do you have any ideas for me? Thank you so much for posting the videos! You explain things in a way that is easy for me to follow and extremely helpful!
On the fuel pump relay fuse the 2 things that you said looked burnt is on mine do i have a bad problem because i cant get it to start at all im just trying to get it to run again can you please help me figure it out thanks
Isn't the relay you were pointing at the fuel pump relay and the ig key fuse the 60A fuse right above those 2 10A fuses?
Great video but mine lacks power suppy on the IG key relay and starter fuse what could be the problem?
Thank you for making this great video. Do you know where could I get all the diagrams for a 2003 Mazda Protege5?
I don't really even remember how I got the easy to follow diagram. I do have an electronic copy of the service manual from Mazda but it is fairly difficult to follow. You can probably find the service manual with a quick google search but send me a message if you can't find it.
me quedo claritoo😯😯
Buenas noches les saludo desde Guatemala, la consulta es donde se encuentra el relé y el fusible de la bomba de combustible de Mazda 323 modelo 99
What the Neon fuse box for. I need a need one and don’t have an owner manual box
The 100a fuse is bolted both sides fuse box has to be taken apart to get to the bolts
where did you get that diagram?
then i replaced my battery, the alarm goes off if i try to connect the new battery. any ideas?
On my 2002 Mazda p5, I push in the clutch, turn ignition to run, and get a clicking sound directly in front of the driver's side. I checked the fuse box and the IG key fuse relay slot looks to be burnt, previously I had disassembled my sound system's power cable and laid it loose and uncovered, this possibly shorted the IG key fuse relay slot due to touching the metal body, but unsure. Typically the car will click as I turn on the ignition to run, I had the battery tested and starter, all good. No clue as to what is causing it to not start. Good video on the electrical troubleshooting, I'll be buying a multimeter soon to check these electrical components.
Our car has a fuel pump relay which makes that click in that location. When the fuel pump was bad (not turning & jammed broken) the click sounded as, click on - click off in two seconds. When a working fuel pump is in place you can hear a gentle whirl from under the back seat.
Got a question....when you test the plug for the clutch button which plug do you connect to the top part or the part by clutch button?
If you are trying to test the switch for continuity you would put your prongs in the clutch side.
I have replaced the ignition switch and the clutch switch and sometimes it starts only when I get the clutch pedal depressed in a certain way. I hear clicking when it doesn't start. I'm not assuming that the culprit is the starter relay as I can see the base of the fuse box where the relay sits is burnt. So could be a bad relay and I would probably clean it or replace it
Grounding is probably bad if it is burnt.
@@benjaminlately which one is the starter relay? The bright yellow one? The one you pulled out at the beginning of the video is a different one (IG Key relay). The reason I ask which is the starter relay, is that in most cars you can just jump the starter (to see if it works) by shorting the terminals corresponding to the starter relay's pin 30 and pin 87 (the ones the relay would connect when it was go-time). But am I right that the schematic shows no "starter relay" that, once shorted, would directly jump the starter?
Hey guys what you'll think causing my coil not to fire? Need some help please
Thank you- good information, and it seems like information is sparse on Mazda starter circuits! We have a 99 Protege LX, A/T. I'm in 3 days now too, and still with no joy. I have power to the ignition switch. And in start position, the switch energizes the black/blue (B/L) trace wire. Crazy thing- at the A/T interlock switch, the B/L trace wire is energized in the On/Acc position, but not in Start position. The A/T switch has continuity from B/L to B/Y in Park and Neutral. If I apply voltage to the B/Y leaving the interlock switch, the starter turns over. What else happens between the ignition switch and the A/T interlock switch??!
Figured it out. Previous owner had installed a theft prevention interlock. The wire from the ignition switch to the transmission safety switch was cut and routed through the theft switch. The theft interlock box had been bumped and the trigger wire was unhooked. Eureka.
Where did you get the schematic diagram for the Mazda of the starting system?
Think some random guy had it on answers dot com I don't remember.
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
I know I'm ridiculously late but I have a 2001 protege that has a high temp gauge when the power is turned on and it just won't start :( is there any way you came across such a problem or solution to a problem like that? the engine turns over but it won't start... Where are my manners, thanks a lot for taking the time to share your knowledge :-)
I've never had that happen, but I think the car will do the high temp thing if the master fuse could be fried. I talk about it around the 1:48 mark. I don't really think the car would crank if your master was fried. I probably won't be able to help since it is pegging on H. You probably have some other electrical problem. Usually, if the car canks but doesn't start it is a fuel or spark issue. I have other videos on how to diagnose fuel pump and associated electical systems. There is a test terminal to short the fuel pump to ground. If you do that when the key is turned on you can quickly rule out the fuel pump. Search my videos... I talk about it and point it out. I'm going to bet you probably don't have spark since your see the H get pegged, but that is one problem I haven't had to solve on the car yet.
@@benjaminlately thank you so much, after some troubleshooting I found the green main fuse to be bad. Replaced it and the car started but only ran fine for a few days then the problem returned again so it's back to the drawing board.
yeah... you must have a big short somewhere. Rubbed wires or maybe the starter.
will definitely take a look at the starter, thanks again for sharing...
I need help same thing with my car temp on Hot
Do you have a link to that starter circuit diagram you are showing?
I'll look, but i'm not sure I have a copy. It was sent to me via temp link. I didn't realize how many people would see this video.
Yeah it's a pretty good "starting point" video for this sort of problem. I figured I'd ask about that schematic since it looks pretty clear and straightforward and would be good to keep in my records.
Before you replaced your starter did could you hear the solenoid on the starter click? I'm about to dig in on a cheapo car I bought yesterday and I'm curious because I can hear the solenoid click when the key is turned.
that click is most likely not the solenoid on the starter, but I think I know what you are talking about. I would be willing to bet it is a relay in the cab to turn off the blower fan. The solenoid is on the start itself. If you hear something that sounds like it is on the passenger side glove compartment area it is a blower fan relay.
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
Que le pasa a mi carro nada protege 97 que cuando se calienta no quiere prender
Hello I’m having the exact same problem
Mechanic couldn’t seem to find the problem I’m take your approach can you give me the names of the tools that your using I’m going to try to do it myself
If it is the exact same problem check to make sure there is a fuse in the fuse holder on the "factory alarm". It will be to the left of the steering wheel zip tied up under the dash. My original problem was the fuse fell out and disabled the starting circuit Its on a pigtail attached to the ignition.
I think all you really need is a basic mechanics tool set with metric wrenches and a multi meter. Most big box hardware stores will have what you need. Don't buy your multi meter at walmart.
Hey, if nibody posted. You need to remove the 2 bolts. Do not force out it wilbreak and replacing will be a pain. l
Hello I'd like to ask if my car crank but won't start what might be the problem, Ive installed new crank and cam sensor and new ecu
I also have a video on that scenario. I would check to make sure you have fuel flow first. If you do then check to see if you have spark. The ECU was probably the most expensive part you could do. If you have fuel flow and spark you could probably pull the valve cover and inspect the tension on the timing belt. If it's loose it might have jumped a few cogs.
So my main 100a fuse is good, but i dont have power to the green relay. Replaced crank and cam sensors, and nothing. Saw where crank sensor controlled power to relay, but still no power. Any ideas?
Not sure what the green one is off hand. I'm not sure it is even part of the starting system.
@@benjaminlately sorry, the top one on mine is green also, yours is black
@@evannolan4667 so your car cranks but doesn't start? Or it doesnt crank and doesn't start?. Do you have an auto or a manual?
@@benjaminlatelycranks but doesnt start, its a manual, all fuses under dash are good
@@evannolan4667 look at my other videos. I have one one fuel pump and spark.
Do you happen to know the part # for the switch you point to at 6:32? Everywhere I seem to search points me to the clutch pedal position switch which is the grey one to the right of the plug.
Deleted bad info
oops... That's not the right one... That is the cruise cut-out switch.
Where can I find the 02 Mazda Protege 5 starter system diagram?
I honestly don't remember where I got that one, and I'm a couple computers past when I made the video so I haven't been able to find it.
Got the same problem on my 2002 protege .. I already went with all u mention and still only crank but won’t start .. even replaced the fuel pump spark, coils , and air sensor any tips ?
Anyone.. all star went the serpentine bell ripped.. and I decide to drive it back home , 2 block away the car die ..
I expect you aren't getting spark. Crank sensor or crank sensor wire probably got hit by the belt. I would replace that before anything else. I don't have a video on that one, but I have replaced it (It gets dripped on when the water pump fails). Passenger side... Front/bottom of the crank. Routing the cable is a pain in the ass, but if you are persistent you'll get it. Its less likely, but possible that your timing belt jumped when the serpentine belt shredded. If the Crank sensor doesn't get it to start you'll probably have to pull the valve cover. I don't know if there is an easy way on the mazda to tell if everything is lined up as it should be (some manufactures have marks).
Can you show us the diagram for the fuel circuit
I don't think I have one, but I don't think there is much to it. It runs off "EG Key Fuse" relay. I explain it in another video.
i need wiring diagram
bro hey , ive got a mazda 323bj,
Just got into a accident and now my car won’t start what should I start with checking
That's going to be difficult without some experience. Cam and crank sensors, fuel flow, spark, timing belt position could have jumped if it was a good hit. Probably going to have to start with electrical stuff. The fuel pump or starter might have been immobilized. I do have videos on basically bypassing the ECU for both of those items. www.youcanic.com/article/car-wont-start-after-accident ... Other stuff
my car would not start and the temp was pinned on hot even though the car has not ran in 5 days so i changed that 100 amp main fuse and it didnt change a thing
Probably should test the old fuse with a multimeter. If it is good you might have a cut wire or bad ground. If it is bad you may have fried the new one as well and have a short.
any chance u found the problem I have the same thing goin on
That temp spike reading happens when you remove the green relay for the fuel pump... SO its probably dead.
I need help too same thing.. temp is on hot please help someone
My car want drive but it will start and run
I don't know how to message you privately but my car turns over but won't start I've replaced the starter battery alternator spark plugs
You'll want to test for spark, Test for fuel flow. If you have spark and fuel flow you'll need to start looking at timing issues.... or the cam and crank sensors. Cam and crank sensors are the easiest. Crank sensor is the one that got me a few years. The crank sensor can get wet from the weep hole on the water pump.
@@benjaminlately wow I've already replaced the plugs alternator battery ignition coils omg I just tore out a wire harness out of a speed3 for it aswell 😢
@@benjaminlately thanks I'll try that
@@benjaminlately keep u updated
Bro
Hey man I could really use your help is there anyway I can contact you?
What is your question. It's been a long time since I worked on this car. I'm fairly rusty.
On my 2003 mazda protege5 the 10amp starter signal fuse isn't getting any voltage to it. The starter ignition switch isn't getting power either. And to make a long story short I was working on it really tired and put the batterie in backwards. And I check alot of things including what you've talked about in this video. It's just been a nightmare for me trying to get this car to start.
Batterie is getting 12v and hold a charge.
@@jonathanpearce5906 I'm not sure where it is but you probably blew a diode.
Alright I'll make sure to look that up and check it out I really appreciate your time.
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
my car is a Mazda protects 2003 e
standard.. I started it and maybe I don't do anything please someone to help me... He just makes tacs and Tac the ralay that is at the passenger door
the click in the passenger door area is just a relay killing power to the audio system I think. It isn't part of the actual starting circuit.
i think i talk about it in one of my videos backin the day.