Just a heads up, the screw gun motor and disconnecting the power cable with the key on both produce arcs/sparks that are a potential ignition source for fuel vapor.
So if I had of went with the 1st shops advice, I would have ordered a brand new tank for NOTHING, not to mention the 300$ in labor they wanted to replace it!! I'm new to owning cars, but today I learned an extremely valueable lesson of getting SECOND OPINIONS. I found a backyard mechanic who is going to fix it for less than 1/4 of the price both shops wanted. :)
Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! Was able to switch out the fuel pump and assembly the past week. Those “quick release” clips were a pita to get off. Cabin no longer smells of gas but still chasing a lean condition cause...
Ive got a 2000 mazda protege. It has recently started flashing the cel intermediatly (not all the time, only when the car starts to surge, & lose power under load) and when its not blinking it just stays on. I am realizing that after i put gas in my tank, my car acts funny during de-celeration/braking. It spurts and stalls and most of the time dies but starts back up. Just recently it has started with the flashing cel, slow acceleration and surging. Please HELP. New spark plugs, coils, MAF, and ive had my catalytic converter checked and it is fine. Fuel problem maybe?
I think I didn't properly seat the Fuel Pump to the new Fuel Filter, come to think of it I think it's that, because when I attached both there was no click or anything just made sure things aligned but the problem is between the fuel pump inside the fuel filter and the gas being pumped is not going through the fuel filter. I'll have to double check over the weekend. (I think now its the rubber piece I didnt attach on top of the fuel pump connecting to the fuel filter.)
I think I didn't properly seat the Fuel Pump to the new Fuel Filter, come to think of it I think it's that, because when I attached both there was no click or anything just made sure things aligned but the problem is between the fuel pump inside the fuel filter and the gas being pumped is not going through the fuel filter. I'll have to double check over the weekend.
Hey I have a 2003 Mazda 323 sp20 (that's what protege5's are called in Australia) well my car starts and it will run ok for a few seconds then the revs start bumping up and Down (sort of like when you take off bad and your about to stall the car) and it justs dies. It happend once before but after about half an hour of starting and dying it worked and now 2 days later same thing. I had to get it towed it starts but wont stay on for long ? Any idea ?
fupabox, I bought a new 2011 Mazda2 Sport M/T. At about 5000 miles, I started to notice a continuous moderately low humming/whining noise coming from the back of the car. Not sure, but I don't recall hearing this noise before that. It is more noticeable at idle just because there's no road noise when the car is not moving. It is constant and doesn't change with speed. The car starts normally, and there's no problem with acceleration. Is this fuel pump noise? If so, is it normal? Thank you
My screws were so rusted I had to chisel the tops off. But I broke 2 of the screws while trying to unscrew them with vise-grips. Then I failed in trying to centre-drill them out. And now they're stuck inside the brass ring. I am sure I've also damaged the 2 holes. Not sure if it would be a good seal if I can get the 6 remaining screws out and only them to put the pump back in.
yea! I'm currently trying to fix the sending unit myself because I'm completely broke. The sending unit is still on the tank, but I disconnected the power to the pump to depressure the tank, then unplugged the main fuel line quick connector. It looks liek fuel is welling up from the edges of the plastic under the main fuel line nozzle that comes off the sending unit, but I'm wondering if its the fuel line connector itself because there's no seal or o-ring. Is this normal?
Anyone care to give advise? I have four stripped screws. Do I use a screw extractor with a drill? Is this very dangerous due to the gas tank? I'd rather not blow myself up fixing my daughter's car.
I was hoping for some help. We are having a similar issue with our protege and I purchased a new pump recently. HOWEVER the screw heads which hold the unit in the take are rusted out. (I live in Hawaii and EVERYTHING rusts out here really bad) What would you think that my best option would be to remove the unit and be able to replace it? Thanks for the advice!
when I called Rockauto the customer service rep said it was just the fuel filter, not the plastic housing, but several people on the mazda247 forums confirmed its the white and black plastic housing with the filter inside since its sealed. its kinda funny i kept saying to people there's no way the dealership can charge me $280 for a piece of molded plastic that cost them 50 cents in raw materials, and its true, it was less than 30 bucks in reality.
An update to help anyone as this is a very common issue. The mazda dealership tried to sell me a new tank, then a new sending unit. The tank is $300+ and the sending unit was $280+. 95% of the time its actually the plastic housing for the fuel filter, which is the white plastic that has the nozzles for the fuel lines and the power plug for the fuel pump seen in the video. You can get it on rockauto for $30 FREAKING DOLLARS. rockauto.c OH m/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1998504&cc=1416833.
Well the Seal-All is perfect, its just this damn winter, instead of 6 hours to harden it takes 2 days. I sealed one hole, and 3 others popped up (from those strange holes around the edge of the metal plate where you can see the plastic underneath), so I managed to seal those well and now its coming out from 1 more place! At least I have it narrowed down to just 1 more spot, I can probably get it sealed. Btw, is there a seal underneath that causes this issue? Can it be replaced separately?
I just bought a 2003 protege5. Got it home and within a day noticed the smell of fuel. One shop said it was the tank, another said it was the sending unit. I opened the little hatch under the back seats and it was COVERED with sand/dirt/grime, I had to spoon it out. The sending unit cover was rusted to the point of disintegration, you can actaully see the white plastic underneath. But to see which shop was right, I put 15$ of fuel in, sloshed it, opened the hatch and its SOPPING with fuel
I am having a problem with fuel leaking around the sending unit on my 01' protege and wanted your opinion. I cant see a leak from the fuel supply or return lines, but fuel seems to pool on top of the unit (the plastic part where the return and supply line connectors are coming out of). If my fuel pump is working fine, do you think I can just replace the plastic housing around the pump?
hi i just replace the tank on a 2002 proteke and the fuel hoses are bad, i put generic fuel hoses to it and mount, now i have p0300 code and experience losing power only on higway, also we dont replace the gas filter, any suggestions thank you thanks for the video
Any one know what specs should be use for this pump... I got an offer 44-50 lbs (I think this is the PSI ) with 148 Lh second offer: 51-58 lbs with 115 Lh Thanks for answer
hey no problem. does that link come up as a Molded Heater Hose? for some reason I have to browse down through the categories or the link wont open properly - Mazda > 2003 > > Protege5 > Fuel/Air > and the 1 item should say "BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0433010 In Tank Fuel Filter" with a picture clearly showing the whole plastic housing.
I just finished the whole process and I'm having issues, it just cranks and it does'nt start. I made sure all plugs were in correctly and still nothing maybe I got a DOA fuel filter. Mazda Protege 2002 LX 2.0L Replacement of a fuel filter as it made the car stall and stutter and gas was leaking from a crack on top of fuel filter.
Just curious because I havnt actually seen how it is exactly set up in person, do those screws go into the tank directly (actually in contact with the gasoline?)
Much appreciated! I got some pymatex "cold weld" but its crap, turns into play-dough texture immediately and doesn't adhere to anything. I also have some jbweld "water weld" but its also not liquid enough to get into the pores of the steel and plastic to adhere in sub-zero temperatures. I'll try "seal all" next. Thanks again.
Your video is very helpful, however the video suggest taking off the fuel line by separating the fuel line from the green retainers. Working on my protege, I found it a lot easier to use a small flat head and slide under the green retainer clips (2 sides) and push it outward and over the plastic retainer ring (on the stems connected to the fuel pump). Trying to separate the green retainer from the fuel line end connector can potentially damage the fuel line connector.
nice job and video...i have to do mine and i'm pretty sure it's the same problem. did buy the gas tank before i check your video...but what the heck..thanks man
Update: I took the car to the dealer, and as soon as the mechanic listened to that noise, he said it's the fuel pump. So they replaced it under warranty. It has been almost 3 mos and been quiet since. Hopefully, it won't give any problem for the next 10 yrs! We'll see! Thank you fupabox for your diagnosis. You helped a lot of people with their car concerns on this channel!
I followed your video and got it fixed, thanks. That electrical plug that clips on the outside top metal plate on mine has an orange wire cut. Any idea what the orange wire is or what that plug is so I can google what it is?
Thank you so much!! I just watched my friend do this in a nightmare scenario for his 1999 dodge caravan, and he had to raise the back, get under, drop the tank, etc. To go THROUGH the back seat.. thank you Mazda! and thank you Fupabox for taking the time to film this video! I'll be looking for more.
Can someone tell me why my Protege5 is cranking but not starting? It cranks great but won't catch to actually start. I replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, and battery. HELP!
I was gonna mention that ,i just changed mine about a month ago because sometimes car wouldn't turn on and i would turn the ignition 10 to 12 times before it catches, the switches are notorious for going bad on proteges, so i just bought switch fo 30 bucks and put it on, its real simple to do.. 3 screws on the plastic around steering column, you will see the switch if it hasn't been changed its white, if its been changed its creme and brown, you'll need a short phillips to unscrew it, or a ratchet screwdriver, theirs barely any room , disconnect all the harnesses so you will have more room to wiggle, very ez , btw if you dont know what switch looks like, picture it like this, when you put car keys in ignition switch is directly behind it..
Don't give up these cars are Good, last long and easy to fix, fixing cars are my hobby here in houston, so the car cranks but it does not catch , hmm could he no fuel getting to the injectors on the fuel rail, or a fuse in the fuse box under the hood popped....
Thanks for the video. I have a 2003 Protege5. 177K miles. just replaced all the belts, water pump and gaskets. drove it around locally maybe 20 miles on saturday. Got on the freeway yesterday, after about 4 miles traveling at 70 mph, it felt jerky or hesitant. I pulled over and before I could stop, it died on me and couldn't get it started. Checked under the hood and saw no leaks or smoke. waited for 5 minutes and it started back up but the check engine light is on now. drove back home fine. do you think this may have anything to do with the fuel pump????
Aha thanks fupabox, I found out the problem the rubber piece was missing in action I, I didnt put it on top of the fuel pump and I just attached the fuel pump to the fuel filter without a tight fit, it was just spraying gas inside the fuel filter making it not start due to lack of fuel. I inspected it again and found a rubber piece that goes on top of the fuel pump and put everything back together and voom, voom. Thanks again for a very good video. subscribed :-)
I have to add my thanks too, currently replacing the fuel filter as part of a major service for a family member and as soon as I removed the cover and saw the quick disconnect hoses my first thought was "how many ways could I fuck up and break these things?" So massive thanks for the level of detail you went into for this job, a lot of DIY videos will just tell you the "how" steps, you also added "why" for the steps taken which is always a great help.
Great Video. I love it when the instructional vids leave NOTHING out because it's usually that something that screws me up. Anyway I would like to ask about ideas/order of checking for a gas gauge that is not reading properly. It just seems to sit at 1/4 tank even if put about another 1/4 tanks worth of gas in. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the actual pump or leaking like in this video. Just the reading. I can't seem to find much info on the net on that. I have a 2002 Protegé5. TIA
Just a heads up, the screw gun motor and disconnecting the power cable with the key on both produce arcs/sparks that are a potential ignition source for fuel vapor.
fuuuuuck mine is leaking and the screws are stuck on , impossible to remove so rusty
So if I had of went with the 1st shops advice, I would have ordered a brand new tank for NOTHING, not to mention the 300$ in labor they wanted to replace it!! I'm new to owning cars, but today I learned an extremely valueable lesson of getting SECOND OPINIONS. I found a backyard mechanic who is going to fix it for less than 1/4 of the price both shops wanted. :)
Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! Was able to switch out the fuel pump and assembly the past week. Those “quick release” clips were a pita to get off. Cabin no longer smells of gas but still chasing a lean condition cause...
Wheres the fuel filter on a 1994 Mazda protege
Is it dangerous if there gas in the car?
Ive got a 2000 mazda protege. It has recently started flashing the cel intermediatly (not all the time, only when the car starts to surge, & lose power under load) and when its not blinking it just stays on. I am realizing that after i put gas in my tank, my car acts funny during de-celeration/braking. It spurts and stalls and most of the time dies but starts back up. Just recently it has started with the flashing cel, slow acceleration and surging. Please HELP. New spark plugs, coils, MAF, and ive had my catalytic converter checked and it is fine. Fuel problem maybe?
I think I didn't properly seat the Fuel Pump to the new Fuel Filter, come to think of it I think it's that, because when I attached both there was no click or anything just made sure things aligned but the problem is between the fuel pump inside the fuel filter and the gas being pumped is not going through the fuel filter. I'll have to double check over the weekend.
(I think now its the rubber piece I didnt attach on top of the fuel pump connecting to the fuel filter.)
I think I didn't properly seat the Fuel Pump to the new Fuel Filter, come to think of it I think it's that, because when I attached both there was no click or anything just made sure things aligned but the problem is between the fuel pump inside the fuel filter and the gas being pumped is not going through the fuel filter. I'll have to double check over the weekend.
Hey I have a 2003 Mazda 323 sp20 (that's what protege5's are called in Australia) well my car starts and it will run ok for a few seconds then the revs start bumping up and Down (sort of like when you take off bad and your about to stall the car) and it justs dies. It happend once before but after about half an hour of starting and dying it worked and now 2 days later same thing. I had to get it towed it starts but wont stay on for long ? Any idea ?
fupabox,
I bought a new 2011 Mazda2 Sport M/T. At about 5000 miles, I started to notice a continuous moderately low humming/whining noise coming from the back of the car. Not sure, but I don't recall hearing this noise before that. It is more noticeable at idle just because there's no road noise when the car is not moving. It is constant and doesn't change with speed. The car starts normally, and there's no problem with acceleration. Is this fuel pump noise? If so, is it normal?
Thank you
My screws were so rusted I had to chisel the tops off. But I broke 2 of the screws while trying to unscrew them with vise-grips. Then I failed in trying to centre-drill them out. And now they're stuck inside the brass ring. I am sure I've also damaged the 2 holes. Not sure if it would be a good seal if I can get the 6 remaining screws out and only them to put the pump back in.
yea! I'm currently trying to fix the sending unit myself because I'm completely broke. The sending unit is still on the tank, but I disconnected the power to the pump to depressure the tank, then unplugged the main fuel line quick connector. It looks liek fuel is welling up from the edges of the plastic under the main fuel line nozzle that comes off the sending unit, but I'm wondering if its the fuel line connector itself because there's no seal or o-ring. Is this normal?
Hi, If you found a leak, how would you have fixed it ? From any and all possible areas that a leak can occur ?
Anyone care to give advise? I have four stripped screws. Do I use a screw extractor with a drill? Is this very dangerous due to the gas tank? I'd rather not blow myself up fixing my daughter's car.
I was hoping for some help. We are having a similar issue with our protege and I purchased a new pump recently. HOWEVER the screw heads which hold the unit in the take are rusted out. (I live in Hawaii and EVERYTHING rusts out here really bad) What would you think that my best option would be to remove the unit and be able to replace it? Thanks for the advice!
when I called Rockauto the customer service rep said it was just the fuel filter, not the plastic housing, but several people on the mazda247 forums confirmed its the white and black plastic housing with the filter inside since its sealed. its kinda funny i kept saying to people there's no way the dealership can charge me $280 for a piece of molded plastic that cost them 50 cents in raw materials, and its true, it was less than 30 bucks in reality.
An update to help anyone as this is a very common issue. The mazda dealership tried to sell me a new tank, then a new sending unit. The tank is $300+ and the sending unit was $280+. 95% of the time its actually the plastic housing for the fuel filter, which is the white plastic that has the nozzles for the fuel lines and the power plug for the fuel pump seen in the video. You can get it on rockauto for $30 FREAKING DOLLARS. rockauto.c OH m/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1998504&cc=1416833.
Well the Seal-All is perfect, its just this damn winter, instead of 6 hours to harden it takes 2 days. I sealed one hole, and 3 others popped up (from those strange holes around the edge of the metal plate where you can see the plastic underneath), so I managed to seal those well and now its coming out from 1 more place! At least I have it narrowed down to just 1 more spot, I can probably get it sealed. Btw, is there a seal underneath that causes this issue? Can it be replaced separately?
I just bought a 2003 protege5. Got it home and within a day noticed the smell of fuel. One shop said it was the tank, another said it was the sending unit. I opened the little hatch under the back seats and it was COVERED with sand/dirt/grime, I had to spoon it out. The sending unit cover was rusted to the point of disintegration, you can actaully see the white plastic underneath. But to see which shop was right, I put 15$ of fuel in, sloshed it, opened the hatch and its SOPPING with fuel
I am having a problem with fuel leaking around the sending unit on my 01' protege and wanted your opinion. I cant see a leak from the fuel supply or return lines, but fuel seems to pool on top of the unit (the plastic part where the return and supply line connectors are coming out of). If my fuel pump is working fine, do you think I can just replace the plastic housing around the pump?
Thank you!
hi i just replace the tank on a 2002 proteke and the fuel hoses are bad, i put generic fuel hoses to it and mount, now i have p0300 code and experience losing power only on higway, also we dont replace the gas filter,
any suggestions
thank you
thanks for the video
Any one know what specs should be use for this pump...
I got an offer 44-50 lbs (I think this is the PSI ) with 148 Lh
second offer: 51-58 lbs with 115 Lh
Thanks for answer
hey no problem. does that link come up as a Molded Heater Hose? for some reason I have to browse down through the categories or the link wont open properly - Mazda > 2003 > > Protege5 > Fuel/Air > and the 1 item should say "BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0433010 In Tank Fuel Filter" with a picture clearly showing the whole plastic housing.
I just finished the whole process and I'm having issues, it just cranks and it does'nt start. I made sure all plugs were in correctly and still nothing maybe I got a DOA fuel filter.
Mazda Protege 2002 LX 2.0L
Replacement of a fuel filter as it made the car stall and stutter and gas was leaking from a crack on top of fuel filter.
Just curious because I havnt actually seen how it is exactly set up in person, do those screws go into the tank directly (actually in contact with the gasoline?)
Much appreciated! I got some pymatex "cold weld" but its crap, turns into play-dough texture immediately and doesn't adhere to anything. I also have some jbweld "water weld" but its also not liquid enough to get into the pores of the steel and plastic to adhere in sub-zero temperatures. I'll try "seal all" next. Thanks again.
Your video is very helpful, however the video suggest taking off the fuel line by separating the fuel line from the green retainers. Working on my protege, I found it a lot easier to use a small flat head and slide under the green retainer clips (2 sides) and push it outward and over the plastic retainer ring (on the stems connected to the fuel pump). Trying to separate the green retainer from the fuel line end connector can potentially damage the fuel line connector.
@fubabox hii have a mazda 626 1999 and i the same problem like your family car would i have to remove the gas tank to ?
nice job and video...i have to do mine and i'm pretty sure it's the same problem. did buy the gas tank before i check your video...but what the heck..thanks man
Update: I took the car to the dealer, and as soon as the mechanic listened to that noise, he said it's the fuel pump. So they replaced it under warranty. It has been almost 3 mos and been quiet since. Hopefully, it won't give any problem for the next 10 yrs! We'll see! Thank you fupabox for your diagnosis. You helped a lot of people with their car concerns on this channel!
I followed your video and got it fixed, thanks. That electrical plug that clips on the outside top metal plate on mine has an orange wire cut. Any idea what the orange wire is or what that plug is so I can google what it is?
what stopped the leak around the pump unit? was there a new gasket installed?
this video help a lot we had to fix the wires got pulled out need to see where they went thanks man
Actually you have to get the SST to release the fuel quick connectors, the green clip and the black connector are released as one piece
good info ..thank you
@@fupabox anytime.. but still, great video you made here mate
Where is the fuel tank pressure sensor located on the mazda? Great video you helped me out a lot!!!
fupabox, what are the symptoms of a bad fuel pump/fuel pump assembly?
Thank you so much!! I just watched my friend do this in a nightmare scenario for his 1999 dodge caravan, and he had to raise the back, get under, drop the tank, etc. To go THROUGH the back seat.. thank you Mazda! and thank you Fupabox for taking the time to film this video! I'll be looking for more.
glad it helped
Can someone tell me why my Protege5 is cranking but not starting? It cranks great but won't catch to actually start. I replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, and battery. HELP!
Did you have timing belt checked or replaced?
@@ivanmontalvo7169 I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the ignition switch but it didn't start so I'm thinking of just giving up on it
I was gonna mention that ,i just changed mine about a month ago because sometimes car wouldn't turn on and i would turn the ignition 10 to 12 times before it catches, the switches are notorious for going bad on proteges, so i just bought switch fo 30 bucks and put it on, its real simple to do.. 3 screws on the plastic around steering column, you will see the switch if it hasn't been changed its white, if its been changed its creme and brown, you'll need a short phillips to unscrew it, or a ratchet screwdriver, theirs barely any room , disconnect all the harnesses so you will have more room to wiggle, very ez , btw if you dont know what switch looks like, picture it like this, when you put car keys in ignition switch is directly behind it..
@@ivanmontalvo7169 I changed the ignition switch and it didn't start.
Don't give up these cars are Good, last long and easy to fix, fixing cars are my hobby here in houston, so the car cranks but it does not catch , hmm could he no fuel getting to the injectors on the fuel rail, or a fuse in the fuse box under the hood popped....
Great Video man , this is moss deff gunna help me out later on today , GOOD STUFF !
Thanks for posting this, you saved me some money!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2003 Protege5. 177K miles. just replaced all the belts, water pump and gaskets. drove it around locally maybe 20 miles on saturday. Got on the freeway yesterday, after about 4 miles traveling at 70 mph, it felt jerky or hesitant. I pulled over and before I could stop, it died on me and couldn't get it started. Checked under the hood and saw no leaks or smoke. waited for 5 minutes and it started back up but the check engine light is on now. drove back home fine. do you think this may have anything to do with the fuel pump????
Alex Garcia could be a fuel pump or an ignition coil...coils will act up when warm, and seem fine when cold when they are going bad
+fupabox
Nice video it helps a lot, do you know where is my fuel filter on my 2003 Mazda protege 5?
Need help!!! Where is the fuel filter located on a 2012 Mazda 5
inside the fuel tank, it is attached to the fuel pump
Aha thanks fupabox, I found out the problem the rubber piece was missing in action I, I didnt put it on top of the fuel pump and I just attached the fuel pump to the fuel filter without a tight fit, it was just spraying gas inside the fuel filter making it not start due to lack of fuel. I inspected it again and found a rubber piece that goes on top of the fuel pump and put everything back together and voom, voom. Thanks again for a very good video. subscribed :-)
You never say which seat in the car this is under
Thanks for all the details. All these years later your video is perfect!
I have to add my thanks too, currently replacing the fuel filter as part of a major service for a family member and as soon as I removed the cover and saw the quick disconnect hoses my first thought was "how many ways could I fuck up and break these things?"
So massive thanks for the level of detail you went into for this job, a lot of DIY videos will just tell you the "how" steps, you also added "why" for the steps taken which is always a great help.
Thanks saved me a lot of time and money 💵
you can open the fuel filler cap to de-pressurise the tank too, you'll hear the hiss when you open it!
This video has been invaluable btw, thank you.
Hi, quick question will a fuel sender give me occasionally fish bites or random stalling?
Thanks New Zealand tribute 2001
it shouldn't
Any suggestions
Leon P possibly fuel filter...if it seems like it is running on only 2 cylinders,then a coil is prob. bad
Sweet I will check
It stalls when you brake hard or when it goes from high rev to stop
Leon P automatic or manual transmission ?
is this the same with the sedan version of the protege???
+Will Ramos I think so
+fupabox thanks ill try next weekend and let you know..... : )
Wow that was great. Thanks!
ok thanks. Will try that.
thank you
@fubabox thanks bro
Awesome
Great Video. I love it when the instructional vids leave NOTHING out because it's usually that something that screws me up. Anyway I would like to ask about ideas/order of checking for a gas gauge that is not reading properly. It just seems to sit at 1/4 tank even if put about another 1/4 tanks worth of gas in. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the actual pump or leaking like in this video. Just the reading. I can't seem to find much info on the net on that. I have a 2002 Protegé5. TIA