Absolutely, 100%, spot on! I bought myself the same Wago clips you had, I followed your instructions to the letter, and YESSS... everything works just right! Honestly, I am very very grateful to you for your time in making this video, I feel I owe you £50 + VAT just for watching :D Your skill, time and clarity in your explanation is very much appreciated. Diolch yn fawr!!
It's funny, some people accuse me of being irresponsible showing such videos, but I've always said I think it gives people a real insight into whats involved, which often deters people from trying themselves which is surely safer! Thanks for watching.
Replaced a pendant fitting with a metal light fitting. Your detailed explanation enabled me to complete the job using the Wago connectors / Wago box. Many thanks.
I wanted to change an old pendant light to a down light. I was searching high and low for a video to help. Thank goodness I came across this video! I got my self some Wago connectors and a junction box (screw fix) and had it done in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much!!!
Brilliantly explained. it's much trickier when you're actually up a ladder in need of an extra pair of hands but your video was so helpful and perfectly explained. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed the video Maria. That's why I prefer the Wago connectors. They are so quick to fit to existing cables which is a bonus when your in a tight space. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE I'll be getting myself down the local DIY store to stock up, they look so handy. I love your videos because you explain everything so well. fab.
Brilliant video! I've been pondering on what method to use as I had no idea that you could put 2 wires onto one Wago connector hole! Game changer! Before I knew that, I couldn't understand why I couldn't find a Wago box that would fit all of the 5 way connectors needed for 2 daisy chains for downlight plus loop in and out and a switched live that would fit into the ceiling void. Thank you so much!
To be honest it's not recommended. If in doubt just use the Wago 773 connectors which are sold with 4 terminals per connector and are smaller. Link to my review on those here - ua-cam.com/video/Cz2jle06crA/v-deo.html. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Brilliant video, I accidently muffed up one of my loop ceiling roses at home but can now get it sorted thanks to your help. Appreciate the hard work that went into this video tremendously
I like your videos. Keep them coming. The need to attach a separate flying lead to the metal back box is more best practice than mandatory so far as I've interpreted the regs. Certainly makes sense when in there changing things.
Thanks for the feedback Graham. As you say, a lot of the regs are about good practice rather than mandatory but I would always advise updating your electrics wherever possible. Always best to future proof!
Thanks for such an informative video. Just installed a metal light fitting, all working perfectly and all due to the clear way you explain things. Much appreciated.
Thank you Mr. Pouse. I have just bought a house and this has given me the confidence to attempt basic electrical work. I would love to see a video on a full house re wire that would be amaze! subscribed. :)
Glad the videos are useful and it's great that you enjoy them. I'll see what I can do with the full rewire, may be a while as time is tight at the moment but stay tuned! Thanks for watching.
I have a ceiling rose that doesn't take the new large white covers for some reason. Different thread I guess. Anyway, it's been looking untidy for a long time now as I didn't have the confidence to replace the ceiling rose itself. However, after watching your video I think I'm brave enough now to give this a go. You explain things so well and the camera shots are nice and clear. Great video thanks.
Hi Bob, glad the video helped. Obviously safety first, remember to turn the power off and if you get stuck call an electrician! Good luck and thanks for watching.
What a clear and helpful video! Thanks for posting. My diy book was completely confusing on all this and youve explained it perfectly. Thanks also for the clear wiring diagrams, v helpful.
You calling me a girl?! Just joking, good work, glad you found the video useful. Plenty more stuff on my channel if DIY is your new past time! Best of luck and thanks for watching.
I've watched several videos showing how to change a ceiling rose and this is by far the best, very clearly explained. Thanks for taking the time. I'm now ready to give it a go. One question..... if I screw up the wiring what's the worst that can happen when I switch the leccy back on? Burn my house down, shock from the light switch or will the consumer unit simply trip?
Knowledge maybe, but skill I'm not so sure! That's why I do the videos so you the viewer can learn how to do this stuff. Hope you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
I like the way you explained the safe isolation method and the two ways of checking that the power was disconnected. Also you omitted to check that the neon light was actually operating as it should. Always remember electricity kills.
Hi mate, thanks for a very good explanation of fitting wires and box connections. I was trying to work out if I can do the connections you are showing to a KRUSNATE ceiling light from Ikea, but unfortunately, it seems very difficult to fit that. If you ever have a chance to make a video of connecting KRUNATE to power, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance again, good luck!
Hi,I have a similar light fitting to the one you are demonstrating,but on the back,the brown and blue wires are crimped together with just one end into a plastic box,and on the other end of the box is a plastic black sleeve sticking out,so how is this to be connected once I take the ceiling rose off.it also says no earth needed as it is double insulated,so what do I do with the earth cable in the pendant drop?. Do I just use a twin cable with live and neutral in.
Not entirely sure what you mean with the wires. Live and neutral should be separate. As for the earth, place it into a connector like the Wago connectors. This will safely isolate the wire and if in the future you need to use the earth wire then it's available. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE hi, There is just one covered block on the back of the light,two of the three light wires are crimped and just one brown and blue into the block,because the others are crimped together,it’s just the opposite end where the light fitting is connected it only has two screws to put the wires from the two wires from the ceiling fitting,no earth and the other end then only has two wire blue and brown to connect to that block on the light,no earth,because it says it don’t need one cause it’s double insulated.
Loving the tutorials. Ive a 1960's house. Ive noticed the ceiling rose is old too, not like modern ones. Two live feeds (red) one earth (blanked) and two neutrals one each side of the rose fitting. I'm wanting to fit a light with a sensor which has three connections, no room for wago connectors as the light is slim. I'm assuming one of the black cables is the switch live. Any help would be appreciated
Great video thanks but I have a question if you can assist please. If you have a light fitting with a metal ceiling rose that has connections for live, neutral and earth and the connection block (already built into that rose upon purchase) actually has two earth wires coming out of it, one of which is already attached at its other end to the metal rose but the other loose where should the loose one be attached to please?
Without looking difficult to say but I think you need to put the loose end of the earth wire into the earth terminal on the connector block along with the earth wire from your lighting. This will make the connection between the earth wires in your lighting circuits and the metal housing on the light. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thanks for your very quick response.Most helpful and confirmed what my own inclination was. Your videos are always informative and easy to understand - even for the D.I.Y. er. Much appreciated.
If you are using the wago connectors to replace a rose. Do you have to use the wago junctions box? Or can you just pass the connectors into the ceiling?
Nicely explained. I was wondering how to fit a globe light that appeared to go over the ceiling rose (somehow.... no instructions provided in the kit) and what you have shown with the junction system is a good solution. Thanks for putting the video together and sharing.
Would it be possible to show from the light when the wires go into the switch where the switch wire neutral goes into common, L1, L2 etc. Also perhaps a video on wiring 2 way switches, intermediate switches and complicated methods. Its very good insight as I'm a newbie in the electrical work field.
Here are two videos that may help. How to wire a 2 way light. 2 way lighting explained - ua-cam.com/video/M0dtcCBPW64/v-deo.html. How to wire a ceiling rose - ua-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/v-deo.html. In the videos I incorrectly refer to the blue wire as neutral. Blue is commonly used as a neutral but in the example of a switch, it is a live wire which is why we wrap the brown tape around it. Hope that helps.
Hi I have a new Crabtree batten lampholder that I want to replace an old one in the bathroom. It's a similar design to the one in your vid. There are only a red and black wires in the ceiling, no neutral. Can I fix this new style light fitting.? The new Crabtree bayonet end has two wires already attached, these would screw into the terminal of the associated Crabtree rose supplied. Would the two old ceiling wires screw into the terminals next to the two mentioned, obviously live next to the live and neutral next to the neutral?
If you have no earth wires then you must have old wiring and should only us a 'double insulated' light fitting. Metal fittings could give you an electric shock if a live touched the metal and it isn't earthed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
3:20 I only have a single live a neutral wire coming out of my ceiling. From what I can see all over wires such as the earth are tucked away in the ceiling. I’m looking to install a pendant ceiling rose light fitting. One with the row of connectors. Would it be okay to place my single neutral wire in the neutral connector and the single live wire into the line connector ?
Great video and very well explained. I've just had a thought for installing 4 down lights in my kitchen. If I use 3 Wago 222 5 pin connectors I can wire the down lights individually with one cable on each and terminate them in the connector leaving the 5th slot for light feed. Instead of the usual loop in and out of each lamp. Do you ever do it this way with these connectors. I'm guessing you could save on cable to.
Hi Telly, assuming you want all your downlights to come on at the same time then you do what I showed in the above video for your first light in the room. This gives you you length of cable (that you see at the end of the video) coming from the ceiling and that is the hard work done! Then you simply take a length of lighting cable (1.5mm twin and earth) from the connector block on your first light back through the ceiling to your next light. Then another length of cable from this light to the next light and so on. I have done a video to show how to wire downlights and you can watch it by clicking the following link: How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on, good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi, great video thanks. I have an ornate ceiling plaster ceiling rose. The hole in the middle of it. it with the wires coming from it is not big enough to fit a junction box through. Is it okay to just use the wago connectors and have them stored within the space/the metal ceiling rose I am attaching. Thanks
It's a bit of a grey area but I would say yes, as long as they are all accessible and visible the moment you remove the light. But a better option would be use the smaller wago connectors (for lighting) and the smaller box, or another option, just cut the hole a bit bigger, as long as it's covered by the light fitting then you'll be ok. Hope that helps.
In a downlighter setup should the J501 be secured to the joists above the downlighters or should it be left to be accessible through one of the downlighter holes? (access is good because it's in the attic.)
Hi Chris, it's up to you. I leave mine loose so I can pull them through the hole which is compliant with the regs but so is attaching it to the joist if you've got access. Hope that helps. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!
Great video, one question .. I used the 221 wago connectors and junction box. Anyway, do the earths all need to go into the same wago ? I have 4 earths but can’t fit a 5 way wago 221 in the junction box so put the earths in two different 2 way 221 blocks. Is that ok or should I buy a 4 block ?
4 block. All your earths need to be joined or you will lose earth continuity. You don't have to use wago, you can use another type of connector block if easier. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Hi great video. I had one question. I have wall lights and wanted to fit in a ceiling light. I went upstairs and lifted the floorboard up and saw a junction box. This junction box was for the existing light circuit that was there previously. What confused me was that there were four 1.5mm wired going into this junction box. I can understand 1 would be switch one would be loop in and the other loop out. But what would you think the fourth wire is? My question is if I find the switch live can I add my new wire (this will make 5 wires all together) from switch live to live, N to N and earth to earth for the new light. I'm guessing the wires are connected to the wall light in the junction box.
Hi Adarsh, as long as you are sure you find the switched live, neutral and earth, then yes you can do exactly what you said. That way the new light will just turn on and off with your wall lights (assuming they are attached to this junction box). if you have 4 cables it may be one cable for each wall light going from the ceiling rose? But as long as the cables are safe it will be fine. If you are ever in doubt it's always worth getting an electrician to check the wiring is safe which is the important thing. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching!
thank you for the reply. I've had another look. there are 2 wall lights and there were 2 ceeling lights, which have now been taken out and put into these junction boxes. I'm hoping 1 wire is the switch, one is the loop in and the other is the loop out. this 4th wire is still confusing me. If it is the case which you have suggested would the 2 gang switch till working accordingly with the wall lights? I properly sound confused now lol sorry. I think I will check the loop and neutral with a continuity tester and see if there is any continuity once the switch is on. think that will settle my theory...
Hi again, I'll be honest I'm not sure. Without looking at it it's hard to say, but a 4th cable could be going out to another light (like a second loop out) if someone has added a new light in the past, or wall lights as I said before. But it might be going to another junction box, which then feeds the wall lights. It could also be used to provide power to another appliance like a bathroom fan (but unlikely if it's in a living room). If this cable is attached to the same terminals as your ceiling light (including the switched live ) then the wall lights would come on and off with the main light. Two way lighting is controlled by the wiring between two switches so yes two way lighting would still work The only way to find out is by some electrical testing and taking up some floor boards! Sorry that's probably not much help. Let me know how you get on. Good luck!
You have just cleared everything up for me, really appreciate your help. I'll have a look, but I was just confused about the 4th wire. I thought maybe someone has left the wire out for lighting, but that was not the case. I think it could possibly be for a socket... which at 1.5 is not regs. But I will check it out tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help
hi mate great vid. i am going to do this with the wago connectors my question is my downlights don't take an earth, so should i connect the earth in the wagos the earth i am referring to is the white flex replacement.also on each of the downlights what should i do with the earth wires? many thanks
Hi Arfan, assuming your light definitely doesn't require an earth, then put some earth sheath over the earth wire and put a wago connector over the end of it. That way it's safely isolated from any other cables and if in the future you change the light fitting, you have the cable ready to be used if you require and earth wire. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Do you have any videos on fitting an led light. It's got all the connections built into it but I'm confused. The light stays on no matter if switch is on or off
Sounds like you have it connected to the permanent live. You need a switched live. Have a look at my electrical playlist on my channel. There maybe a video to help. Thanks for watching.
trying to put in new light in bathroom bur the light is only a class 1 do i need to change the fuse in the consumer unit as it states that a 30ma rcd protector is needed or can i just carry on and fit it as normal and fit the earth to the earth inside the light terminal can you supply a drawing as i can follow you easily thanks
The light can be wired up by connecting the earth as you say, but in addition to this it's saying you need RCD protection which further protects against the risk of electric shock. One way to do this is to have your consumer unit upgraded. This will then protect all circuits with an RCD. If the light fitting is in the bathroom then you need to ensure that the light is not in a zone that requires it to be of a particular IP rating and therefore making it water resistant from potential water sources like shower, bath etc. Hope that helps.
Hi David, should be just the same, you just need to ensure you have enough room for the junction box in the ceiling by removing a small amount of insulation. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I have four wires coming out of my ceiling and all same colours. What would be the fourth one ? Please help as all my lights not working and have to eat at the dark or sockets bulb .
Hi thanks for the video, much appreciated as always. I currently have an old fluorescent fitting which is earthed, however I want to change this to a new pendant type fitting which only has a live and a neutral connector. What should I do with the earth wire...is there a way of connecting it to something or should I change the cable that comes from the junction box to one which only has 2 wires, the live and neutral? Thanks in advance
Hi there, just terminate the earth wire into a suitable connector (like a wago connector). That way it's safely terminated, and if the fitting is changed in the future the earth is still available. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
So basically to go into a modern light fitting (a 4 light bar) you need to replicate the ceiling rose? So presumably to use those Wago connector blocks, I'm going to have to make a bigger hole in the ceiling to accommodate them? And presumably have a new short piece of cable to go to my new light fitting? (Which is just a small fitting the same size as a ceiling rose!)
Thanks a lot mate, just what I need. I am going to install two wall lights at either side of a chimney breast. Is it ok to just use terminal blocks instead. I am going to hide all the connections inside the studded chimney breast. If so what size terminal blocks do I need and can you use 1mm cable instead of 1.5mm. Thanks
Hi there, yes you can use 1mm cable for lighting circuits but it all depends on the electrical set up in your home. I always use 1.5mm as it doesn't cost much more anyway. You will need 16amp terminal boxes. If you are hiding the boxes (i.e they won't be accessible after the job is finished then you should really use non screw connections under the latest regs, so a push fit or lever like the wago products available. In reality electricians use the old type junction boxes in the floor boards all the time but it's not current best practice. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Hi there, yes you can use 1mm cable for lighting circuits but it all depends on the electrical set up in your home. I always use 1.5mm as it doesn't cost much more anyway. You will need 16amp terminal boxes. If you are hiding the boxes (i.e they won't be accessible after the job is finished then you should really use non screw connections under the latest regs, so a push fit or lever like the wago products available. In reality electricians use the old type junction boxes in the floor boards all the time but it's not current best practice. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Sounds like a 2 way wiring setup. Without looking I couldn't say. If in doubt get an electrician to do it and test it for you. You could try some of my other electrical videos which may or may not help. Good luck.
Hi, I have one of those light fittings in my bathroom and due to the excess moisture it has gone rusty. Is there a safe way to disconnect all cables from the metal disc so as to de-rust the fitting itself?
Hi, the only way to disconnect the cables is to undo them all from the terminals. But, before doing this the lighting circuit should be switched off, so either the MCB (Trip switch) or fuse on your consumer unit. Make sure the power is off before disconnecting and take a photo of the wires and where they go before disconnecting as you will probably forget how it went together. If you're still not sure, then maybe get an electrician to do it, you don't want to Zap yourself! Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Many thanks for your advice. I'm happy to do it all on my own if I knew that disconnecting cables and re-connecting them is fairly easy. Taking a picture beforehand is a great idea too.
You will need to put them in an enclosure if putting them in the ceiling. Obviously if they were used behind a socket for example, you wouldn't need the enclosure. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
hi a quick question. my ceiling light has 2 black wires, 1 earth and 1 switch live. it also has 3 red wires which were in the loop section of my previous light fitting. now i have installed a newer chandelier type light where i've wired the 2 black wires in N, the earth wire in E and the switch live in L. the 3 red wires i have isolated with masking tape as there is nowhere for them to go, and now i don't have any light in half the house, what have i done wrong?
Hi Sakib, it sounds like you've removed the old light fitting and tried to put the available cables straight into the new light fitting. That is NOT the right way to do it! Follow the video tutorial again. I show three types of connector in the video that you can use to do this. You need to 're-create' the old wiring set up either inside the metal housing of your new chandelier, or in a junction box in the ceiling. The video explains it better than I can over a message. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on.
Great video! Really Helpful. I have a question bout light fittings in conservatories;Got a ceiling light to fit in a conservatory, all cables in places and it will be in the centre of the conservatory roof and will require fixing directly into the UPVC. Is this ok/safe to do in the way you have done here or is there an advisable/best practice route to take with this? I'm studying to become an electrician at present and can find nothing about this in any of my resources! Thanks in advance and I Hope that makes sense!
Hi Joel. The physical fitting of the light won't come under any regs, more so how the cables are connected and concealed etc. If as you say it is a standard light fitting then you are safe from an electrical point of view. The only issue is whether or not it's going to land on someones head! To be honest uPVC is usually quite strong and provides a good fixing for screws in my experience. The newer stuff is insulated and has what looks like corrugated plastic within the uPVC frames. This is really strong when you screw through it and I've never had any problems (but don't screw through the other side!). So my advice, have a go and go with your gut. If it's solid and you think it's safe then great. If not you may have to make up a bracket to go in the uPVC but I don't think it'll come to that. Good luck with it and let me know how you get on. For regular videos please subscribe, thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the swift and helpful reply. Customer still needs to decide on light fitting they actually want but is likely going to be a pendant or flush fit- although I think pendants will be more manageable. I'll have a crack and see how I get on as you say. Already subbed, love the stuff you put out! Thanks again mate :)
Wonder if you can help please. My bathroom ceiling rose has wires for my bed room hall and porch light. Bunglow so only one floor. But i have to have the wall swith for the bathroom light on to turn the hall bedroom and porch light on aswell. I take it the ceiling rose is messed up?
I hear you now have to have a seperate neutral for smart switches, I guess you use a 3-core and earth cable?. If thats right (2 cores for switch, one neutral and one earth), how would you can the neutral, just a block connector and leave it in the housing for when you do use something that uses the neutral?.
Not quite sure what you're doing but if you need a neutral in the switch then yes you could use 3 core and earth cable, but why would it then need to be left in a connector block if it's already connected to something? Sorry, didn't quite understand the question. Thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE that's the point. old (dumb) switches don't need a neutral but smart switches require a neutral as they need power. switches like SOnOff require a neutral at the switch. pia as in the UK neutral at the switch isn't common
i have connected all the cables in Wago connectors but never put them in a Wago box, hmmm maybe i should go back and disconnect the light fitting and use a Wago box....? Great video :)
Absolutely, 100%, spot on! I bought myself the same Wago clips you had, I followed your instructions to the letter, and YESSS... everything works just right! Honestly, I am very very grateful to you for your time in making this video, I feel I owe you £50 + VAT just for watching :D Your skill, time and clarity in your explanation is very much appreciated. Diolch yn fawr!!
Yep , you’ve convinced me I need a professional in ..Thanks , you’ve probably saved my life lol .
It's funny, some people accuse me of being irresponsible showing such videos, but I've always said I think it gives people a real insight into whats involved, which often deters people from trying themselves which is surely safer! Thanks for watching.
Nice to see a fellow Welshman talking sense . You my boy have now got another subscriber.
Thanks for the feedback Tom and thanks for the subscription. Good luck!
Superb got the wago and same light I was fitting saved me £75 for a spark to do it thank you very much a clear video to follow 👍👍👍
Fantastic!
Replaced a pendant fitting with a metal light fitting. Your detailed explanation enabled me to complete the job using the Wago connectors / Wago box. Many thanks.
You made something initially confusing so clear and easy to understand, thanks for the help!
Quality presentation using modern connecters that will fit back through, without enlarging the existing hole.
I wanted to change an old pendant light to a down light. I was searching high and low for a video to help. Thank goodness I came across this video! I got my self some Wago connectors and a junction box (screw fix) and had it done in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much!!!
Well done!
Absolutely excellent tutorial: crystal clear; assured delivery; expertly edited; confidence inspiring. I subscribed immediately after watching.
Thanks for the feedback Nick, and good luck!
Brilliantly explained. it's much trickier when you're actually up a ladder in need of an extra pair of hands but your video was so helpful and perfectly explained. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed the video Maria. That's why I prefer the Wago connectors. They are so quick to fit to existing cables which is a bonus when your in a tight space. Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE I'll be getting myself down the local DIY store to stock up, they look so handy. I love your videos because you explain everything so well. fab.
I try my best!
This is brilliant, exactly what I need to tackle changing all the lights in my new house!
Brilliant video! I've been pondering on what method to use as I had no idea that you could put 2 wires onto one Wago connector hole! Game changer! Before I knew that, I couldn't understand why I couldn't find a Wago box that would fit all of the 5 way connectors needed for 2 daisy chains for downlight plus loop in and out and a switched live that would fit into the ceiling void. Thank you so much!
To be honest it's not recommended. If in doubt just use the Wago 773 connectors which are sold with 4 terminals per connector and are smaller. Link to my review on those here - ua-cam.com/video/Cz2jle06crA/v-deo.html. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
super clear instructions without the rubbish, well done mate
Glad to help and thanks for the feedback.
Brilliant video, I accidently muffed up one of my loop ceiling roses at home but can now get it sorted thanks to your help. Appreciate the hard work that went into this video tremendously
Thanks for the video. I've just finished the fitting successfully after several hours of thought planning and revision
Nice one Richard, hope it worked out for you. Thanks for watching!
I like your videos. Keep them coming.
The need to attach a separate flying lead to the metal back box is more best practice than mandatory so far as I've interpreted the regs. Certainly makes sense when in there changing things.
Thanks for the feedback Graham. As you say, a lot of the regs are about good practice rather than mandatory but I would always advise updating your electrics wherever possible. Always best to future proof!
POUSE around the HOUSE yep, agreed. And I love Wagos. Just used a bunch to fit recessed lights.
"Mr Wago" deserves his millions :)
Hi, could you explain how to find out which cable is loop in, loop out and switch cable. Thanks 😊
Excelletn demo and explanations. Your diagrammes were gr8 too. Cheers
Thanks for such an informative video. Just installed a metal light fitting, all working perfectly and all due to the clear way you explain things. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped!
Thank you Mr. Pouse. I have just bought a house and this has given me the confidence to attempt basic electrical work. I would love to see a video on a full house re wire that would be amaze! subscribed. :)
Glad the videos are useful and it's great that you enjoy them. I'll see what I can do with the full rewire, may be a while as time is tight at the moment but stay tuned! Thanks for watching.
Yes, turned the switch and the lights came on, brilliant clear video. Thanks
Glad it helped
I have a ceiling rose that doesn't take the new large white covers for some reason. Different thread I guess. Anyway,
it's been looking untidy for a long time now as I didn't have the confidence to replace the ceiling rose itself. However,
after watching your video I think I'm brave enough now to give this a go. You explain things so well and the camera shots
are nice and clear. Great video thanks.
Hi Bob, glad the video helped. Obviously safety first, remember to turn the power off and if you get stuck call an electrician! Good luck and thanks for watching.
Brilliant video managed to follow your video using the Wago system and worked fine. Thank you for the tutorial.
No problem!
Mate, you are an absolute star.
Awesome video mate. I feel like an electrician after watching this
Thanks for the feedback Jess. Glad the vid helped and thanks for watching!
What a clear and helpful video! Thanks for posting. My diy book was completely confusing on all this and youve explained it perfectly. Thanks also for the clear wiring diagrams, v helpful.
Woohoo! Fitted my new kitchen light. I used Wago 221 connectors. They’re awesome! Thank you matey, great instructions. (p.s Girl Power 💁🏼♀️)
You calling me a girl?! Just joking, good work, glad you found the video useful. Plenty more stuff on my channel if DIY is your new past time! Best of luck and thanks for watching.
You are brilliant. Been watching videos for the last week and just found yours with great explination. Would love to find you doing metal conduit lol
When I get time, who knows. Currently doing my loft conversion if you fancy watching those?! Thaks for the comment.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE yes I will watch. Thanks for uploading vids. Cheers
Your instructions are very good.
Thanks Ricky. Thanks for watching!
So helpful Pouse. Swapped pendant today all thanks to your informative video. Cheers pal.
No problem 👍
No problem 👍
Absolutely what I needed. Thank you my fellow welsh man .
No problem 👍
I've watched several videos showing how to change a ceiling rose and this is by far the best, very clearly explained. Thanks for taking the time. I'm now ready to give it a go. One question..... if I screw up the wiring what's the worst that can happen when I switch the leccy back on? Burn my house down, shock from the light switch or will the consumer unit simply trip?
I wish I had just a fraction of your skill and knowledge.
Knowledge maybe, but skill I'm not so sure! That's why I do the videos so you the viewer can learn how to do this stuff. Hope you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Same as that
I like the way you explained the safe isolation method and the two ways of checking that the power was disconnected. Also you omitted to check that the neon light was actually operating as it should. Always remember electricity kills.
Thanks very much for your videos.Brilliant teacher.
You are welcome!
Hi mate, thanks for a very good explanation of fitting wires and box connections. I was trying to work out if I can do the connections you are showing to a KRUSNATE ceiling light from Ikea, but unfortunately, it seems very difficult to fit that. If you ever have a chance to make a video of connecting KRUNATE to power, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance again, good luck!
Hi,I have a similar light fitting to the one you are demonstrating,but on the back,the brown and blue wires are crimped together with just one end into a plastic box,and on the other end of the box is a plastic black sleeve sticking out,so how is this to be connected once I take the ceiling rose off.it also says no earth needed as it is double insulated,so what do I do with the earth cable in the pendant drop?.
Do I just use a twin cable with live and neutral in.
Not entirely sure what you mean with the wires. Live and neutral should be separate. As for the earth, place it into a connector like the Wago connectors. This will safely isolate the wire and if in the future you need to use the earth wire then it's available. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE hi,
There is just one covered block on the back of the light,two of the three light wires are crimped and just one brown and blue into the block,because the others are crimped together,it’s just the opposite end where the light fitting is connected it only has two screws to put the wires from the two wires from the ceiling fitting,no earth and the other end then only has two wire blue and brown to connect to that block on the light,no earth,because it says it don’t need one cause it’s double insulated.
Excellent video. Do you have any instructions on using hager j803 junction box for ring main and spur connection ?
I don't sorry but I do have a video on adding a spur using wago connectors - How to wire a spur socket - ua-cam.com/video/KJWHK9YYIHU/v-deo.html
Thank you very much for your video. Your advice helped me swap out a ceiling rose to a light fitting safey.
Glad to have helped.
excellent video you have explained the whole light fitting theory very well, and the practical demo is easy to understand. Thanks
Hi Bhavjit, thanks for your kind comments. I'm glad you understood it and found it useful. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!
Loving the tutorials. Ive a 1960's house. Ive noticed the ceiling rose is old too, not like modern ones. Two live feeds (red) one earth (blanked) and two neutrals one each side of the rose fitting. I'm wanting to fit a light with a sensor which has three connections, no room for wago connectors as the light is slim. I'm assuming one of the black cables is the switch live. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Thank you so much for the super thanks, really appreciate it 👍
Thanks for the great video. Possibly a silly question... why can't you just change the wire coming out the ceiling rose to an earthed 1.5mm ?
Wow! Great video. Learn something new everday
Beautifully explained, thank you.
Thanks for the feedback.
great video. very helpful. thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks but I have a question if you can assist please. If you have a light fitting with a metal ceiling rose that has connections for live, neutral and earth and the connection block (already built into that rose upon purchase) actually has two earth wires coming out of it, one of which is already attached at its other end to the metal rose but the other loose where should the loose one be attached to please?
Without looking difficult to say but I think you need to put the loose end of the earth wire into the earth terminal on the connector block along with the earth wire from your lighting. This will make the connection between the earth wires in your lighting circuits and the metal housing on the light. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thanks for your very quick response.Most helpful and confirmed what my own inclination was. Your videos are always informative and easy to understand - even for the D.I.Y. er. Much appreciated.
If you are using the wago connectors to replace a rose. Do you have to use the wago junctions box?
Or can you just pass the connectors into the ceiling?
Nicely explained. I was wondering how to fit a globe light that appeared to go over the ceiling rose (somehow.... no instructions provided in the kit) and what you have shown with the junction system is a good solution. Thanks for putting the video together and sharing.
No problem.
Would it be possible to show from the light when the wires go into the switch where the switch wire neutral goes into common, L1, L2 etc. Also perhaps a video on wiring 2 way switches, intermediate switches and complicated methods. Its very good insight as I'm a newbie in the electrical work field.
Here are two videos that may help. How to wire a 2 way light. 2 way lighting explained - ua-cam.com/video/M0dtcCBPW64/v-deo.html. How to wire a ceiling rose - ua-cam.com/video/FjmC0qx1nrU/v-deo.html. In the videos I incorrectly refer to the blue wire as neutral. Blue is commonly used as a neutral but in the example of a switch, it is a live wire which is why we wrap the brown tape around it. Hope that helps.
Your the best at explaining keep it up
Hi Naim, I doubt I'm the best but appreciate the kind words all the same. Thanks for watching!
Hi I have a new Crabtree batten lampholder that I want to replace an old one in the bathroom. It's a similar design to the one in your vid. There are only a red and black wires in the ceiling, no neutral. Can I fix this new style light fitting.? The new Crabtree bayonet end has two wires already attached, these would screw into the terminal of the associated Crabtree rose supplied. Would the two old ceiling wires screw into the terminals next to the two mentioned, obviously live next to the live and neutral next to the neutral?
If you have no earth wires then you must have old wiring and should only us a 'double insulated' light fitting. Metal fittings could give you an electric shock if a live touched the metal and it isn't earthed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
3:20
I only have a single live a neutral wire coming out of my ceiling. From what I can see all over wires such as the earth are tucked away in the ceiling.
I’m looking to install a pendant ceiling rose light fitting. One with the row of connectors.
Would it be okay to place my single neutral wire in the neutral connector and the single live wire into the line connector ?
Really good, understandable vid, thank you👏
I study english, but how builder who have working many years i put "like" due to easy explanation
Amazing work mate, thanks you very much
Brilliant!! Incredibly clear explanations. Thanks!
Hi Gareth, thanks for the great feedback, appreciate it. Always nice to know the videos have helped in some way. Thanks for watching!
Great video and very well explained. I've just had a thought for installing 4 down lights in my kitchen. If I use 3 Wago 222 5 pin connectors I can wire the down lights individually with one cable on each and terminate them in the connector leaving the 5th slot for light feed. Instead of the usual loop in and out of each lamp. Do you ever do it this way with these connectors. I'm guessing you could save on cable to.
Hi Telly, assuming you want all your downlights to come on at the same time then you do what I showed in the above video for your first light in the room. This gives you you length of cable (that you see at the end of the video) coming from the ceiling and that is the hard work done! Then you simply take a length of lighting cable (1.5mm twin and earth) from the connector block on your first light back through the ceiling to your next light. Then another length of cable from this light to the next light and so on. I have done a video to show how to wire downlights and you can watch it by clicking the following link:
How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html
Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on, good luck and thanks for watching!
Ah right. I'll be having a go when I get some of these connectors and the down lights. Thanks for the advice and all the good videos. 👍
Hi, great video thanks. I have an ornate ceiling plaster ceiling rose. The hole in the middle of it. it with the wires coming from it is not big enough to fit a junction box through. Is it okay to just use the wago connectors and have them stored within the space/the metal ceiling rose I am attaching. Thanks
It's a bit of a grey area but I would say yes, as long as they are all accessible and visible the moment you remove the light. But a better option would be use the smaller wago connectors (for lighting) and the smaller box, or another option, just cut the hole a bit bigger, as long as it's covered by the light fitting then you'll be ok. Hope that helps.
In a downlighter setup should the J501 be secured to the joists above the downlighters or should it be left to be accessible through one of the downlighter holes? (access is good because it's in the attic.)
Hi Chris, it's up to you. I leave mine loose so I can pull them through the hole which is compliant with the regs but so is attaching it to the joist if you've got access. Hope that helps. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!
ok thanks great videos btw :)
Thanks for the feedback Chris!
Great video, one question .. I used the 221 wago connectors and junction box. Anyway, do the earths all need to go into the same wago ? I have 4 earths but can’t fit a 5 way wago 221 in the junction box so put the earths in two different 2 way 221 blocks. Is that ok or should I buy a 4 block ?
4 block. All your earths need to be joined or you will lose earth continuity. You don't have to use wago, you can use another type of connector block if easier. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Yet another great informative video. Thanks matey!
Thanks for the feedback.
Hi, I love this video but can you tell me what to do if my new metal light fitting doesn't have an earth please?
Hi great video. I had one question. I have wall lights and wanted to fit in a ceiling light. I went upstairs and lifted the floorboard up and saw a junction box. This junction box was for the existing light circuit that was there previously. What confused me was that there were four 1.5mm wired going into this junction box. I can understand 1 would be switch one would be loop in and the other loop out. But what would you think the fourth wire is? My question is if I find the switch live can I add my new wire (this will make 5 wires all together) from switch live to live, N to N and earth to earth for the new light. I'm guessing the wires are connected to the wall light in the junction box.
Hi Adarsh, as long as you are sure you find the switched live, neutral and earth, then yes you can do exactly what you said. That way the new light will just turn on and off with your wall lights (assuming they are attached to this junction box). if you have 4 cables it may be one cable for each wall light going from the ceiling rose? But as long as the cables are safe it will be fine. If you are ever in doubt it's always worth getting an electrician to check the wiring is safe which is the important thing. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching!
thank you for the reply. I've had another look. there are 2 wall lights and there were 2 ceeling lights, which have now been taken out and put into these junction boxes. I'm hoping 1 wire is the switch, one is the loop in and the other is the loop out. this 4th wire is still confusing me.
If it is the case which you have suggested would the 2 gang switch till working accordingly with the wall lights?
I properly sound confused now lol sorry. I think I will check the loop and neutral with a continuity tester and see if there is any continuity once the switch is on. think that will settle my theory...
Hi again, I'll be honest I'm not sure. Without looking at it it's hard to say, but a 4th cable could be going out to another light (like a second loop out) if someone has added a new light in the past, or wall lights as I said before. But it might be going to another junction box, which then feeds the wall lights. It could also be used to provide power to another appliance like a bathroom fan (but unlikely if it's in a living room). If this cable is attached to the same terminals as your ceiling light (including the switched live ) then the wall lights would come on and off with the main light. Two way lighting is controlled by the wiring between two switches so yes two way lighting would still work The only way to find out is by some electrical testing and taking up some floor boards! Sorry that's probably not much help. Let me know how you get on. Good luck!
You have just cleared everything up for me, really appreciate your help. I'll have a look, but I was just confused about the 4th wire. I thought maybe someone has left the wire out for lighting, but that was not the case. I think it could possibly be for a socket... which at 1.5 is not regs.
But I will check it out tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help
No problem Adarsh, glad to be of service! Good luck.
In toolstation, there is two ampage 24 or 32, which versions of the wago should I use?
24amp is fine for lighting but not for sockets. 32amp for sockets. Best of luck with it.
Great video - using the Wago 222 fittings do you have to store them in the junction box?
Only if they're in the floor or between joists. If they're within your metal light fitting that's fine. Hope that helps.
Great tutorial. Thanks!
No problem.
Brilliant explaining thank you buddy
hi mate great vid. i am going to do this with the wago connectors my question is my downlights don't take an earth, so should i connect the earth in the wagos the earth i am referring to is the white flex replacement.also on each of the downlights what should i do with the earth wires? many thanks
Hi Arfan, assuming your light definitely doesn't require an earth, then put some earth sheath over the earth wire and put a wago connector over the end of it. That way it's safely isolated from any other cables and if in the future you change the light fitting, you have the cable ready to be used if you require and earth wire. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video it was most helpful
Many thanks it saved time and money both 4 me.
No problem Mohammed. Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any videos on fitting an led light. It's got all the connections built into it but I'm confused. The light stays on no matter if switch is on or off
Sounds like you have it connected to the permanent live. You need a switched live. Have a look at my electrical playlist on my channel. There maybe a video to help. Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate , Learnt from it a lot.
No problem, glad to help. Thanks for watching!
You are an absolute legend mate....love it
Thaks for the feedback.
trying to put in new light in bathroom bur the light is only a class 1 do i need to change the fuse in the consumer unit as it states that a 30ma rcd protector is needed or can i just carry on and fit it as normal and fit the earth to the earth inside the light terminal
can you supply a drawing as i can follow you easily thanks
The light can be wired up by connecting the earth as you say, but in addition to this it's saying you need RCD protection which further protects against the risk of electric shock. One way to do this is to have your consumer unit upgraded. This will then protect all circuits with an RCD. If the light fitting is in the bathroom then you need to ensure that the light is not in a zone that requires it to be of a particular IP rating and therefore making it water resistant from potential water sources like shower, bath etc. Hope that helps.
Excellent video
Thanks for watching!
Epic explanation. Well done
Really appreciate for the great feedback and thanks for watching.
Really useful video thanks a bunch
Great video thanks for posting
Have you got any bids about installing back boxes into insulated plasterboard/Kingston etc? Thanks in advance
Hi David, should be just the same, you just need to ensure you have enough room for the junction box in the ceiling by removing a small amount of insulation. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE yep I thought that was the case. Thanks for confirming😃
I have four wires coming out of my ceiling and all same colours. What would be the fourth one ? Please help as all my lights not working and have to eat at the dark or sockets bulb .
No idea sorry. At least the dim lights give a romantic atmosphere at dinner time! Thanks for watching.
Is this the same principle for a strip/fluorescent light?
Yes, once you have your live earth and neutral you can connect them straight in. Thanks for watching!
I don't have a wooden joist so do i use the plugs and screw that came with my new light fitting?
Hi thanks for the video, much appreciated as always. I currently have an old fluorescent fitting which is earthed, however I want to change this to a new pendant type fitting which only has a live and a neutral connector. What should I do with the earth wire...is there a way of connecting it to something or should I change the cable that comes from the junction box to one which only has 2 wires, the live and neutral? Thanks in advance
Hi there, just terminate the earth wire into a suitable connector (like a wago connector). That way it's safely terminated, and if the fitting is changed in the future the earth is still available. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video mate. What's the name the cable that has live earth and neutral inside? Need to buy some to extend my wiring for a flush ceiling light
Twin and earth cable. For lights you can use 1mm or 1.5mm. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
So basically to go into a modern light fitting (a 4 light bar) you need to replicate the ceiling rose? So presumably to use those Wago connector blocks, I'm going to have to make a bigger hole in the ceiling to accommodate them? And presumably have a new short piece of cable to go to my new light fitting? (Which is just a small fitting the same size as a ceiling rose!)
There are several ways to do this, this is just one of them. Best of luck with it ans thanks for watching.
After watching this i think I may call in a professional
If in doubt call an electrician. Thanks for watching.
Thanks a lot mate, just what I need. I am going to install two wall lights at either side of a chimney breast. Is it ok to just use terminal blocks instead. I am going to hide all the connections inside the studded chimney breast. If so what size terminal blocks do I need and can you use 1mm cable instead of 1.5mm. Thanks
Hi there, yes you can use 1mm cable for lighting circuits but it all depends on the electrical set up in your home. I always use 1.5mm as it doesn't cost much more anyway. You will need 16amp terminal boxes. If you are hiding the boxes (i.e they won't be accessible after the job is finished then you should really use non screw connections under the latest regs, so a push fit or lever like the wago products available. In reality electricians use the old type junction boxes in the floor boards all the time but it's not current best practice. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Hi there, yes you can use 1mm cable for lighting circuits but it all depends on the electrical set up in your home. I always use 1.5mm as it doesn't cost much more anyway. You will need 16amp terminal boxes. If you are hiding the boxes (i.e they won't be accessible after the job is finished then you should really use non screw connections under the latest regs, so a push fit or lever like the wago products available. In reality electricians use the old type junction boxes in the floor boards all the time but it's not current best practice. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and good luck!
I have the old style wires, black, ground and red. I also have a single pink wire, where does that go to? Do I need to connect that up?
Sounds like a 2 way wiring setup. Without looking I couldn't say. If in doubt get an electrician to do it and test it for you. You could try some of my other electrical videos which may or may not help. Good luck.
I did it. The pink wire was for the wall switch. Which explains why the light didn't turn off without the pink wire connected.
Hi, I have one of those light fittings in my bathroom and due to the excess moisture it has gone rusty. Is there a safe way to disconnect all cables from the metal disc so as to de-rust the fitting itself?
Hi, the only way to disconnect the cables is to undo them all from the terminals. But, before doing this the lighting circuit should be switched off, so either the MCB (Trip switch) or fuse on your consumer unit. Make sure the power is off before disconnecting and take a photo of the wires and where they go before disconnecting as you will probably forget how it went together. If you're still not sure, then maybe get an electrician to do it, you don't want to Zap yourself! Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Many thanks for your advice. I'm happy to do it all on my own if I knew that disconnecting cables and re-connecting them is fairly easy. Taking a picture beforehand is a great idea too.
Great video,well explained,would it be ok to just push the wago connectors through the hole in the ceiling instead of using the wago junction box?.
You will need to put them in an enclosure if putting them in the ceiling. Obviously if they were used behind a socket for example, you wouldn't need the enclosure. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply.
hi a quick question. my ceiling light has 2 black wires, 1 earth and 1 switch live. it also has 3 red wires which were in the loop section of my previous light fitting. now i have installed a newer chandelier type light where i've wired the 2 black wires in N, the earth wire in E and the switch live in L. the 3 red wires i have isolated with masking tape as there is nowhere for them to go, and now i don't have any light in half the house, what have i done wrong?
Hi Sakib, it sounds like you've removed the old light fitting and tried to put the available cables straight into the new light fitting. That is NOT the right way to do it! Follow the video tutorial again. I show three types of connector in the video that you can use to do this. You need to 're-create' the old wiring set up either inside the metal housing of your new chandelier, or in a junction box in the ceiling. The video explains it better than I can over a message. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on.
Great video mate 👍
Great video! Really Helpful.
I have a question bout light fittings in conservatories;Got a ceiling light to fit in a conservatory, all cables in places and it will be in the centre of the conservatory roof and will require fixing directly into the UPVC. Is this ok/safe to do in the way you have done here or is there an advisable/best practice route to take with this? I'm studying to become an electrician at present and can find nothing about this in any of my resources! Thanks in advance and I Hope that makes sense!
Hi Joel. The physical fitting of the light won't come under any regs, more so how the cables are connected and concealed etc. If as you say it is a standard light fitting then you are safe from an electrical point of view. The only issue is whether or not it's going to land on someones head! To be honest uPVC is usually quite strong and provides a good fixing for screws in my experience. The newer stuff is insulated and has what looks like corrugated plastic within the uPVC frames. This is really strong when you screw through it and I've never had any problems (but don't screw through the other side!). So my advice, have a go and go with your gut. If it's solid and you think it's safe then great. If not you may have to make up a bracket to go in the uPVC but I don't think it'll come to that. Good luck with it and let me know how you get on. For regular videos please subscribe, thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the swift and helpful reply. Customer still needs to decide on light fitting they actually want but is likely going to be a pendant or flush fit- although I think pendants will be more manageable. I'll have a crack and see how I get on as you say. Already subbed, love the stuff you put out! Thanks again mate :)
No problem. Good luck with the training and the light fitting!
Wonder if you can help please. My bathroom ceiling rose has wires for my bed room hall and porch light. Bunglow so only one floor. But i have to have the wall swith for the bathroom light on to turn the hall bedroom and porch light on aswell. I take it the ceiling rose is messed up?
Brilliant video thanks
Thanks for the feedback!
I hear you now have to have a seperate neutral for smart switches, I guess you use a 3-core and earth cable?. If thats right (2 cores for switch, one neutral and one earth), how would you can the neutral, just a block connector and leave it in the housing for when you do use something that uses the neutral?.
Not quite sure what you're doing but if you need a neutral in the switch then yes you could use 3 core and earth cable, but why would it then need to be left in a connector block if it's already connected to something? Sorry, didn't quite understand the question. Thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE that's the point. old (dumb) switches don't need a neutral but smart switches require a neutral as they need power. switches like SOnOff require a neutral at the switch. pia as in the UK neutral at the switch isn't common
Great 👍
Thanks ❤❤❤
i have connected all the cables in Wago connectors but never put them in a Wago box, hmmm maybe i should go back and disconnect the light fitting and use a Wago box....?
Great video :)
How would you run a porch light with feed from existing ceiling rose and separate light switch ?
Indoors then yes you can do that. If you mean an outside light on a porch then you could do a fused spur from a socket.