Looked at different videos and they all talked rubbish and confused the whole topic of wago connectors. You on the hand kept it simple and very easy to understand. Great explanation and I'd like to say thank you. See you in other videos and they are well put and explained.
GREAT inrto and demo. Some of the other so called intros to WAGO are pedestrian and don't even mention the Junction Box. Congrats. YES, I have subscribed.
After watching your video and the one specifically about the CK Automatic wire cutter review and demonstration I went out and bought one. The combination of the CK and the WAGOs is a revelation. Diolch.
This was a really helpful video haven't wired light fixtures where the fitting didn't include the built-in loop connectors was stumped at the best way forward. Purchased the wago basic installer box and completed the installation of all 5 fittings. The video helped me save time, provide guidance as to a better way of connecting a loop lighting instead of old chocolate block fitting and gave me the refresher needed to do this job as amateur DIY'er. I am very happy with keep up the good work.
Glad you found it useful. Many different connectors on the market these days, but I find they are very DIY friendly. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Hi, Ive just installed three batten lights, with Wago kit, in the garage using your demonstration. It all worked flawlessly. Thanks for the very clear explanation.
Nice demo funny ending. I bought one of those boxes on Ebay (set of 5) after seeing this video. But I chose the box with 3 compartments by mistake instead of two compartments. So the connectors do not fit into the compartments. But I have ordered 5 more with two compartments now. Also bought the wire strippers, certainly makes the job easier and neater.
Truly excellent video, thanks Pouse. I've just ordered some 2 and 3 way Wagos as I have quite a lot of old ceiling roses to remove and fit new light fittings in two houses.
Really useful video without any waffle, thank you! I've just bought a mixed box which includes some of these. I've never used them before. With mine, the orange lever unclips, but does not want to open to 90 degrees. I don't want to break it, but do I just push harder, or has the design changed recently so you don't need to open to 90 degrees (mine only open to about 20 deg.)? Thanks.
Great video as ever! I'm changing an old ceiling light/fan which once I get down, won't go back up easily, but I'm keen to take a look at the wiring before I install the new fitting. Is it save to remove the old light and place the cables into wago connectors for the time being?
Yes but firstly ensure the power is turned off and make sure the loop wires are in the one connector block, neutral in another, earth in another and switched live (for switch) is isolated on its own connector block. Take a photo of your wiring first and maybe tape and identify the wires first to make sure they go back the same way. If you just have one cable with 3 wires, then one connector block for each wire. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE great, that's what I thought. Dont suppose you have done/seen a video on removing an old ceiling light/fan have you? It's the cable for the fan which is puzzling me as this will be redundant at both the fitting and the switch once I have removed the old light fitting and connected my downlights
I want to use led stripe lights around my chandelier. I want to tie into the chandeliers junction box power supply. Does the led stripe light need its own junction box to convert the led ? Sorry, I'm really confused🤔
Hi there, a junction box is just where the connections join, but if you're using LED strip then you need to make sure they are the correct power rating. Mains electricity is 230 - 240 volts in the UK. If your LED strip light is 12 volt then you will need a transformer to reduce the power. Best to speak to the shop selling you the strip light and get the right advice. If you're still unsure how to do it then you will need to get an electrician to install them correctly. You don't want to burn the house down! Hope that helps. Thanks or watching!
Can I use them on the back of a socket for short wire to socket adding extra wire to socket I was told to use blocks as the 2.5 wire need to touch each other
Good vid mate.. I guess a little limited in the wago box as to how many connectors you can get in there.. I am replacing a loop in loop out ceiling rose with some spotlights 3 on one switch and 3 on another. So would need to put 5 cables in one box. Do you think that is possible. If not I may just shove all the wago connectors up in the ceiling..
It's possible to get the cable but not 5 connectors in the right slots. But if you try the wago 773 series connectors, you can get 6 connectors (with 4 terminals on each connector) in the wagobox unit. They are only rated for lighting circuits but perfect for what you want. I've done a review here - Wago 773 connectors review and demo - ua-cam.com/video/Cz2jle06crA/v-deo.html. Also watch my other video to see how to link the LEDs the easy way - How to install LED downlighters - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
If you swap out an traditional ceiling rose and install a new modern light and use Wago connectors. Do these have to be put in a junction box or can you just push them back into the ceiling...? cheers
Junction box to make the main connections, but where you connect the final cable to the light, you can just leave the wago connectors behind the metal light fitting if you need to use them. Most modern lights will have a connector attached and already earthed to the metal light fitting.
Can these be used inside a metal wall box without the plastic box? I need to extend a double socket further along the wall and there isn't enogh cable to use the Wago box as well. Can I simply connect the wires inside it and extend the wires into the new metal box? Maybe wrap some insulation tape around them for extra protection?
Yes you can put them in a metal box. You don't need tape around them in the metal box as I presume you wont be able to tug the cable once their in place? They are fully insulated if fitted correctly. You only need the box in the ceiling or under the floor. Best of luck.
Hi mate, I love your videos, very helpful. I want to wire two wall light in the alcoves but only want one switch to turn them both on and off. Can you do a video to show how to do this, ASAP, please...
Hi Jordan, If you watch my video How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html, this will show you how to wire the first light. Then watch my other other video, How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html, this will show you how to wire more than one light off the same switch (it doesn't have to be downlights, it works for all lights). In brief, once you have your first light wired, just take another length of cable connecting the live wire to the switched live you have created on the ceiling rose or junction box for your first light, then neutral to neutral, and earth to earth and run the cable direct to the next light. Then just connect earth to earth, live to live and neutral to neutral on the 2nd light terminal/connector. Hope that helps, good luck and thanks again for watching!
First thing, if you don't have a clue about electrics then employ an electrician as it can be dangerous and you could end up doing more damage to the rest of the electrics. I have done other videos (links below) which show how to remove a pendant and create a wire for an LED light, and another video showing how to wire up a few LED lights off one switch. How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Hi just bought some as I need to isolate a ceiling rose for the time being as it got knocked/smashed. With the lightning circuit mock test I noticed the light loom never got connected?
Hi again, do you mean it never got physically connected to the mains? It was just easier to film at a desk but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for watching.
haha you say even an idiot can use these,i bought 60 connectots to wire my house and thought there shit because they wouldnt hold my 2.0 mm wire untill 20 minutes later i really forced open the spring lever after watching your video and they open properly and then worked perfectly lol
I've done exactly the same myself today! I'd watched the other video fully on wiring and changing pendant to metal light fitting, but hadn't watched this review through all the way. Felt like a right numpty 😂. Well done Pouse. Great work again mate 👍
Am I right in saying if I’m looping a feed for a outdoor light I can loop a 3 way terminal to another 3 way to extend the loop. Main feed into first light then running a loop either side of the main feed and first light. There is 3 lights on the loop.
Great video, thank you. Is the Junction box a requirement? Or is it safe for the connectors just be pushed into the ceiling? Also, is it possible to share terminals for live/neutral cables (as shown with the earth)?
Don't share lives and neutrals. The connectors can be pushed into the light housing if it allows, but if up in the ceiling they should be in a box to avoid them being pulled apart in the future. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE just wanted to be clear on one part please. You shared neutral or it may have been live in another video using a Hager Junction box with built in terminals, so when you say dont share lives and neutrals do you mean specifically with wago connectors, or is this a general rule of thumb? Great videos by the way!
@@JaferSabir I think you're referring to using a blue wire as a switched live. It's not technically a neutral, it's the blue wire (usually used for neutral) used as a switched live. In this situation put brown sleeve or tape over blue wire to show It's being used as a live.
If installed correctly then they don't need to be accessible as they are deemed maintenance free but it is always a good idea to make junction boxes accessible where possible.
You need the cables secured together which is what the box does. You can put them inside the metal enclosure of a metal light fitting for example, but the moment they go out of sight, they should be secure so if pulled, you pull on the cable and not the individual wires. Thanks for watching!
If you have six wires you need to put them all back into the single socket so double up the wires in each terminal. it should be exactly the same as the back of a double. You'll see what I mean when it comes off the wall and you take a look. But yes they can be used to terminate cables. If in doubt please use a qualified electrician. Thanks for watching.
hi, i need to change my lamp in my hall upstairs. it's 6 wires + earth. i wanna change to led lamp & don't have room for any junction box. how can i sort it . thx
Hi Ingrida, I would agree with Arcane, if you really don't have an idea of what you're looking at then you should employ a professional. I couldn't advise based on that information. However, if you want more detail on fitting lights then please watch my other video , 'How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting'. - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html. This will explain it a lot better than I can by typing. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching!
The video shows the wago levers just being flipped up. I found that considerable force was necessary to open them. So much force, in fact, that I thought I was in danger of breaking them. Maybe the oned he uses have been previously opened.
@@jflizzle457 I am having the same issue. I just spent a lot of money on grow lights, and feel like I am going to break these things if I pull harder. I was about to just use wire nuts. I guess I will just see if it breaks lol.
I have three sets of wires LN and Earth twisted together in a single switch plug plate. I want extend the cable further down to a double plug and put a blanking plate in its place. Would it be safe to use the conventional 30amp blocks to connect down to? I would site them at the old position sitting behind the blanking plate. Im guessing they would be too thick to go into these ones.
I use Wago 222 that are rated for 400V/32AMP, 2,5MM fits perfect in there. Yesterday I used them for first time must say very easy to use. Connected 2 Solid Wires & 1 stranded wire of 2.5MM to split cables and create an extra connection in the power distrbution place.
It's best to buy a block with the right number of conductors as per manufacturers instructions. That way you will remove any doubt. Thanks for watching.
Good video! I was just using something similar today (the ones without the levers). I needed to install LED light in the ceiling, there was only a wall light in the room. Is it SAFE to connect the main electrical cable to new cable using these connectors and install into the wall? As the wall cable was only 10cms. I used cable tubing over cable and plastered over the cable and the "wago connectors" the led does not jave earth so i taped it off with electrical tape and wrapped the end around new cable for led. I could not use junction box between the new couplings as it would not fit in wall, without having to break brics under plaster layer. Is it safe for wago connectors to be plastered/cemented direct i to wall? Many thanks!
They are not meant to be plastered over, they should either be eft inside a back box, socket etc, or if concealed, then put in a suitable junction box. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Great thank you, i thought as much, so i ended up chasing cable to the ceiling and there as cavity so i could use a proper cylinder, black plastic electric box to connect the two cables.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I believe these can be plastered over as they are maintenance-free? Forgive me if I’m wrong I work in industrial electrics but enjoy myself some domestic wiring too 👍🏻
@@TheKikoyy99 not sure if tgey can be plastered over directly but if used in the wagobox junction box and cable tied closed, they can be left concealed in the floor or ceiling yes. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Looking to add sockets to an existing ring main... once I've cut into one of the existing ring cables, one existing leg is long enough to feed to the socket. So would I only require one wago junction box with 222 connectors to link the other end of the existing ring cable to the new leg? Only reason I ask is because I read on a forum that if your adding to the ring main you need two wago junction boxes (at either end of the new socket added to the ring, due to the connectors being down rated to 24amp). Or is it possible to get connectors rated to 32amp? Hope my question makes sense, Thanks in advance
The connectors I have are 32A rated, so you would only need 1 junction box, feeding from your ring main circuit (should be a wire coming into the existing plug and a wire out to another pre-installed plug), all you’re doing is spurring a radial from a ring main circuit, which is perfectly fine to do, just make sure the connectors are rated to 32A and you’re only adding 1 socket from your ring main and you should be fine 👍🏻
I dont room to either push all the connectors into a junction box or push the box into the ceiling hole. Can I just push the blocks into the ceiling without the junction box?
Hi Paul, the Wago is just a metal bar with x ammount of spring connectors. You can have a theoretically Wago with 100 ports, and still use just 2 of the ports. Though the smaller Wago the smaller volume it takes up in a junction box.
You can't fit two of the 5 connectors in each side of this box as stated, ('if you're using 3 or more you can only fit 2 in each side'). You can only fit 2x5 plus 2x2 in total, or 4x3, definitely not 4x5. I have a rose fitting with 4 wires connected to it, so I need 3x5 and 1x2 and they will not fit in this box! Does anyone know if the 773 fittings will fit in this box, I'd need 1x6, 2x4 and 1x2? Or is there a larger Wago box?
Given that you then also have to buy an enclosure for each connection, I don't see any advantage over junction boxes cost wise. I can see that they'd be good when your pushed for space somewhere (if you didn't have to then add an enclosure) and they could save a little time if wiring a whole house since all wires are stripped to the same length so that time saved would add up. I do wonder if they're a fad.
Hi again, the main purpose of them is to meet modern regulations in the UK. Due to their specific design, if they are housed in the junction box they are classed as 'maintenance free' which means they come under less strict rules when deciding where to place them under the floor compared with a traditional junction box. They are also very easy to use, and are used regularly when testing electrics as they can join wires quickly, then be unclipped and reused very fast without the need for a screw driver. Hope that helps. Thanks again for watching!
You connect the red wires in one connector block and the black in another connector block as I have in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
You connect the red wires in one connector block and the black in another connector block as I have in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Round here, when using the old screw caps we would also wrap em with tape (we even do so with switches and outlets before securing in boxes. Do you do so with these Wago things as well?
No need with these. They are fully insulated. Although if used in the ceiling they should be housed in the junction box designed for them. Thanks for watching.
Hi mate I love your videos always clear etc so I can use these to say slip wiring to a socket under floorboards and feed an additional live to a fused box for a kitchen extractor ? (3amp) thanks
Not entirely sure what you mean, but if you're looking to run power to a fan from a ring circuit (with sockets) then you need to run the cable from either a socket or junction box to a fused switch with a 3amp fuse, then from this switch to the fan. That allows you to safely isolate the fan if required, and makes the wiring safe by protecting it with a 3 amp fuse. It's called a fused spur. No video on this yet, but hopefully one day when I have time!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi thanks for your reply yes I already have a fused isolation switch a white 1 for now I'll changing it to silver eventually obvs as u stated with a 3 amp fuse im hoping and if you can quote me on thus if im right to fund a junction box under floor boards that are for the sockets in kitchen to that affect wire from this junction box chased down to the isolation switch (3amp) then from that switch back up through the chase then back down to the extractor (non ducted ) ??? Thanks in advance
@@kevinhancock4064 your kitchen wiring if it's fairly new, should be on its own circuit so prob no junction box to sockets. There maybe a junction box on the circuit with a spur to the switch in which case you only need to go from switch to fan. That said, when messing round with existing electrics there could be any number of issues with the existing set up. Having it tested and inspected by a qualified electrician will ensure the existing circuits and any additional wiring will be functional and safe. Depending on what you intend to do, it maybe noticfiable work which would require it to be signed off by a qualified electrician. Hope tgat helps and best of luck with it!
Hi, I don't understand why the maximum size for solid cable is stated as 2.5mm2, when I can confirm that 4mm2 solid cable comfortably fits inside the connector as I've tried it as a test and if the maximum rating for this connector is 32amps, then why are we only limited to using 2.5mm2 solid cable and not 4mm2?? Why would only stranded 4mm2 be acceptable? Are you able to shed some light on this? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
It's just what the product has been tested to do safely I guess. You should always use products in accordance with the manufacturer's guidance as they will have been through rigorous tests to meet British and European standards. They may well accept a 4mm wire but weather the product has been safely tested using a 4mm wire is another matter. You could always ask the manufacturer? Sorry if that's not answered your question. Thanks for watching!
Hi there, many thanks for the reply! I would imagine you're right; I just needed a second opinion. Luckily I have found an alternative product (221 series) which is capable of housing 4mm solid cable: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412C.html
This guy gets to the point , doesn't faff about and doesn't think he's Steven Spielberg . Thanks for making the effort to help others .
Thanks for the feedback Paul and thanks for watching!
Looked at different videos and they all talked rubbish and confused the whole topic of wago connectors.
You on the hand kept it simple and very easy to understand. Great explanation and I'd like to say thank you. See you in other videos and they are well put and explained.
GREAT inrto and demo. Some of the other so called intros to WAGO are pedestrian and don't even mention the Junction Box. Congrats. YES, I have subscribed.
Hi there, thanks for the positive feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching!
After watching your video and the one specifically about the CK Automatic wire cutter review and demonstration I went out and bought one. The combination of the CK and the WAGOs is a revelation. Diolch.
I agree, they're great. Thanks again for watching!
Excellent video tutorials - straight to the point, well explained and well filmed. Brilliant - thank you Pouse !!
Thank you Jeff, appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
This was a really helpful video haven't wired light fixtures where the fitting didn't include the built-in loop connectors was stumped at the best way forward. Purchased the wago basic installer box and completed the installation of all 5 fittings. The video helped me save time, provide guidance as to a better way of connecting a loop lighting instead of old chocolate block fitting and gave me the refresher needed to do this job as amateur DIY'er. I am very happy with keep up the good work.
Glad you found it useful. Many different connectors on the market these days, but I find they are very DIY friendly. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Hi, Ive just installed three batten lights, with Wago kit, in the garage using your demonstration. It all worked flawlessly. Thanks for the very clear explanation.
Great job!
Brilliant demo, I'm going to use some of these to extend some cables. Very clear and easy to understand. Thankyou.
Nice demo funny ending. I bought one of those boxes on Ebay (set of 5) after seeing this video. But I chose the box with 3 compartments by mistake instead of two compartments. So the connectors do not fit into the compartments. But I have ordered 5 more with two compartments now. Also bought the wire strippers, certainly makes the job easier and neater.
Best of luck with it and thanks for watching.
Truly excellent video, thanks Pouse. I've just ordered some 2 and 3 way Wagos as I have quite a lot of old ceiling roses to remove and fit new light fittings in two houses.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Thanks mate. Another good vid. Didn't know about the Wago 222 connectors beforehand.
Hi Lewis, thanks for the feedback. Good luck with all the projects! Thanks again for watching.
Helped a lot 😂 been struggling for 30 minutes. 5 stars ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Glad it worked out for you!
Mateee I used these other day. Saved my life. So easy and I have same cutters lol
Glad they helped you out. Very handy for certain applications.
Thanks for the video. I wanted to see if these levers flipped all the way up. I felt like I was going to break them.
Thanks for watching!
🤣🤣 I had to search on UA-cam to figure out how to use these and I laughed at the end when you said, even an idiot can use these 🤣🤣🤣👍.
I meant once you've seen my video! Best of luck with them.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE yeah its sooo easy now. i love them. so neat and fast and cheap
Well bud that's the reason why I'm here as well
Quick and effective explanation! Thanks!
Good video which helped me a lot - thanks for sharing 👍
No problem, thanks for watching.
Once again, amazing…. Guy is a genius
You have sold me on these Pouse.
222!
There is actually a newer version which looks neater now called wago 221 series. Thanks for watching!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Explained well. Will you do a review on the new ones
This is a great video. I have a bunch of mismatched twist caps in all of my outlets. Those things are going in the trash.
Use the right wire-nut.
Damien Davis Electrical Connectors Wire Block Clamp Terminal Cable12V 240V Reusable like wago
THE CHEAPEST ON EBAY item number 263132476577
Really useful video without any waffle, thank you! I've just bought a mixed box which includes some of these. I've never used them before. With mine, the orange lever unclips, but does not want to open to 90 degrees. I don't want to break it, but do I just push harder, or has the design changed recently so you don't need to open to 90 degrees (mine only open to about 20 deg.)? Thanks.
very happy I've found your videos. Very handy and thank you buddy ★★★★★
Thanks for the great feedback Lee. Glad you enjoy the videos, happy viewing and thanks for watching!
Great bit of kit great vid thanks for making and posting 👍
No problem.
Great video as ever!
I'm changing an old ceiling light/fan which once I get down, won't go back up easily, but I'm keen to take a look at the wiring before I install the new fitting. Is it save to remove the old light and place the cables into wago connectors for the time being?
Yes but firstly ensure the power is turned off and make sure the loop wires are in the one connector block, neutral in another, earth in another and switched live (for switch) is isolated on its own connector block. Take a photo of your wiring first and maybe tape and identify the wires first to make sure they go back the same way. If you just have one cable with 3 wires, then one connector block for each wire. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE great, that's what I thought. Dont suppose you have done/seen a video on removing an old ceiling light/fan have you? It's the cable for the fan which is puzzling me as this will be redundant at both the fitting and the switch once I have removed the old light fitting and connected my downlights
Hi can i use these to change a bedroom socket from place in a bedroom?I would condemn the current 2 way socket and move it up the room.Thanks
Great Video, excellent demonstration
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
I want to use led stripe lights around my chandelier. I want to tie into the chandeliers junction box power supply. Does the led stripe light need its own junction box to convert the led ? Sorry, I'm really confused🤔
Hi there, a junction box is just where the connections join, but if you're using LED strip then you need to make sure they are the correct power rating. Mains electricity is 230 - 240 volts in the UK. If your LED strip light is 12 volt then you will need a transformer to reduce the power. Best to speak to the shop selling you the strip light and get the right advice. If you're still unsure how to do it then you will need to get an electrician to install them correctly. You don't want to burn the house down! Hope that helps. Thanks or watching!
Can I use them on the back of a socket for short wire to socket adding extra wire to socket I was told to use blocks as the 2.5 wire need to touch each other
Yes you can use these for extending cable.
Is it acceptable to put more than one conductor in a single opening? I was surprised to see that.
I think not. Definitely against the connector specs.
hi mate hope your ok. any chance of you doing a vid using the ck automatic wire strippers to do some crimping
Hi Arfan, I'll see what I can do! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. We were struggling to use these
No problem, thanks for watching.
Just got some off Amazon thanks mate 👍
Good vid mate.. I guess a little limited in the wago box as to how many connectors you can get in there.. I am replacing a loop in loop out ceiling rose with some spotlights 3 on one switch and 3 on another. So would need to put 5 cables in one box. Do you think that is possible. If not I may just shove all the wago connectors up in the ceiling..
It's possible to get the cable but not 5 connectors in the right slots. But if you try the wago 773 series connectors, you can get 6 connectors (with 4 terminals on each connector) in the wagobox unit. They are only rated for lighting circuits but perfect for what you want. I've done a review here - Wago 773 connectors review and demo - ua-cam.com/video/Cz2jle06crA/v-deo.html. Also watch my other video to see how to link the LEDs the easy way - How to install LED downlighters - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!
POUSE around the HOUSE nice one.. thanks 👍🏻
If you swap out an traditional ceiling rose and install a new modern light and use Wago connectors. Do these have to be put in a junction box or can you just push them back into the ceiling...? cheers
Junction box to make the main connections, but where you connect the final cable to the light, you can just leave the wago connectors behind the metal light fitting if you need to use them. Most modern lights will have a connector attached and already earthed to the metal light fitting.
Can you use a wago junction box in the attic under loft insulation?
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
Can these be used inside a metal wall box without the plastic box? I need to extend a double socket further along the wall and there isn't enogh cable to use the Wago box as well. Can I simply connect the wires inside it and extend the wires into the new metal box? Maybe wrap some insulation tape around them for extra protection?
Yes you can put them in a metal box. You don't need tape around them in the metal box as I presume you wont be able to tug the cable once their in place? They are fully insulated if fitted correctly. You only need the box in the ceiling or under the floor. Best of luck.
Hi mate, I love your videos, very helpful. I want to wire two wall light in the alcoves but only want one switch to turn them both on and off. Can you do a video to show how to do this, ASAP, please...
Hi Jordan, If you watch my video How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html, this will show you how to wire the first light. Then watch my other other video, How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html, this will show you how to wire more than one light off the same switch (it doesn't have to be downlights, it works for all lights). In brief, once you have your first light wired, just take another length of cable connecting the live wire to the switched live you have created on the ceiling rose or junction box for your first light, then neutral to neutral, and earth to earth and run the cable direct to the next light. Then just connect earth to earth, live to live and neutral to neutral on the 2nd light terminal/connector. Hope that helps, good luck and thanks again for watching!
Hi I'm trying to wire up 4 led down lights in my hallway but only got one source of power from a pendant what is the best way to rewire thanks
First thing, if you don't have a clue about electrics then employ an electrician as it can be dangerous and you could end up doing more damage to the rest of the electrics. I have done other videos (links below) which show how to remove a pendant and create a wire for an LED light, and another video showing how to wire up a few LED lights off one switch.
How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html
How to install LED downlighters PART 2 - ua-cam.com/video/DjtB6OnjvlE/v-deo.html
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
remember to cable tie the box to make it maintenance free if installing in an enclosed area
Thanks for the feedback.
thanks great Chanel will watch all your tips thanks
Hi just bought some as I need to isolate a ceiling rose for the time being as it got knocked/smashed. With the lightning circuit mock test I noticed the light loom never got connected?
Hi again, do you mean it never got physically connected to the mains? It was just easier to film at a desk but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE sorry yeah I know what you mean. Looking forward to trying these. Again another great video
haha you say even an idiot can use these,i bought 60 connectots to wire my house and thought there shit because they wouldnt hold my 2.0 mm wire untill 20 minutes later i really forced open the spring lever after watching your video and they open properly and then worked perfectly lol
So you did it, nice one! Thanks for watching.
I've done exactly the same myself today! I'd watched the other video fully on wiring and changing pendant to metal light fitting, but hadn't watched this review through all the way. Felt like a right numpty 😂. Well done Pouse. Great work again mate 👍
Am I right in saying if I’m looping a feed for a outdoor light I can loop a 3 way terminal to another 3 way to extend the loop.
Main feed into first light then running a loop either side of the main feed and first light.
There is 3 lights on the loop.
Great video, thank you. Is the Junction box a requirement? Or is it safe for the connectors just be pushed into the ceiling? Also, is it possible to share terminals for live/neutral cables (as shown with the earth)?
Don't share lives and neutrals. The connectors can be pushed into the light housing if it allows, but if up in the ceiling they should be in a box to avoid them being pulled apart in the future. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE Brilliant! Thank you for taking the time to reply 🙂
@@JKHunter1 no problem.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE just wanted to be clear on one part please. You shared neutral or it may have been live in another video using a Hager Junction box with built in terminals, so when you say dont share lives and neutrals do you mean specifically with wago connectors, or is this a general rule of thumb? Great videos by the way!
@@JaferSabir I think you're referring to using a blue wire as a switched live. It's not technically a neutral, it's the blue wire (usually used for neutral) used as a switched live. In this situation put brown sleeve or tape over blue wire to show It's being used as a live.
I'm going to use these for some lighting job , do the wago junction boxes need to to accessible or can I cover them in the ceiling?
If installed correctly then they don't need to be accessible as they are deemed maintenance free but it is always a good idea to make junction boxes accessible where possible.
Would these wagos be okay in a suspended ceiling without box? Just thinking I will be able have access by gentle pulling through a downlight hole.
You need the cables secured together which is what the box does. You can put them inside the metal enclosure of a metal light fitting for example, but the moment they go out of sight, they should be secure so if pulled, you pull on the cable and not the individual wires. Thanks for watching!
great video, very helpfull.thank you.
hi could i use those to blank the three wires from a plug socket. i want to convert a double to a single (timer socket) theres six wires...? thanks
If you have six wires you need to put them all back into the single socket so double up the wires in each terminal. it should be exactly the same as the back of a double. You'll see what I mean when it comes off the wall and you take a look. But yes they can be used to terminate cables. If in doubt please use a qualified electrician. Thanks for watching.
hi, i need to change my lamp in my hall upstairs. it's 6 wires + earth. i wanna change to led lamp & don't have room for any junction box. how can i sort it . thx
Get a professional in
Hi Ingrida, I would agree with Arcane, if you really don't have an idea of what you're looking at then you should employ a professional. I couldn't advise based on that information. However, if you want more detail on fitting lights then please watch my other video , 'How to fit a ceiling light. Lighting circuits explained. Replace and install a light fitting'. - ua-cam.com/video/iQAs5zq-32c/v-deo.html. This will explain it a lot better than I can by typing. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching!
i've did everything
No blinking allowed 😂 nice vid very helpful
What junction box would you use if you had more cable? doesn't look like 5 and 3 terminal would fit. 😟
You could try the 773 connectors. They are smaller and push fit, or combination of both? Hope that helps.
Hi would these pass regulations for a shared neutral on multi way light switches I.e. 4 switches on one plate thanks
They are suitable for all wiring up to 240v and 32amps. Check Wago website for specific manufacturer details. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your help
The video shows the wago levers just being flipped up. I found that considerable force was necessary to open them. So much force, in fact, that I thought I was in danger of breaking them. Maybe the oned he uses have been previously opened.
Lol yes I've just done a light fitting using 222's and I thought they were going to snap but they didn't so good piece of kit...
Yes they are quite stiff on the first click! Thanks for watching.
Hi Craig, thanks for the feedback. Yes good kit. Thanks for watching!
I've spent the last 12 minutes of my life trying to get these damn levers up, do I need to buy them all drinks first or what?
For real tho, any tips?
@@jflizzle457 I am having the same issue. I just spent a lot of money on grow lights, and feel like I am going to break these things if I pull harder. I was about to just use wire nuts. I guess I will just see if it breaks lol.
If left in light fitting do you have to tape them up?
No, but they should be in a wagobox junction box if pushed into the ceiling. Hope that helps!
Have you got any videos on how to use push fit wago 100 series?
Very helpful !
Glad you enjoyed it.
Straight to the point thanks
No problem.
I have three sets of wires LN and Earth twisted together in a single switch plug plate. I want extend the cable further down to a double plug and put a blanking plate in its place.
Would it be safe to use the conventional 30amp blocks to connect down to? I would site them at the old position sitting behind the blanking plate. Im guessing they would be too thick to go into these ones.
Can you tell me if these are suitable for 12v dc solar application please
They will work on anything up to 240volts and 32amps. Check the Wago website for manufacturers specs to be sure. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
yes depending on V and A, also they are not weatherproof where MC4 connectors are
Thank you friend great job👍👍👍
No problem!
Are the 222 fine to use in 30/32amp ring main as theyre only rated to 24amps when using the 2.5mm cable
They should be ok, however check the WAGO site as these are 32amp rated. Didn't know they did 24amp. Best to be safe.
I use Wago 222 that are rated for 400V/32AMP, 2,5MM fits perfect in there.
Yesterday I used them for first time must say very easy to use.
Connected 2 Solid Wires & 1 stranded wire of 2.5MM to split cables and create an extra connection in the power distrbution place.
Thank you! Is it safe to put two smaller gauge wire in one conductor?
It's best to buy a block with the right number of conductors as per manufacturers instructions. That way you will remove any doubt. Thanks for watching.
Hi, have you got any videos on removing and making secure wall lights?
I haven't sorry. Maybe in the future. Thanks for watching.
Hi , can they take an insulation resistance test at 500 v ?
They have passed all the necessary tests to be sold in the UK and elsewhere. Check the Wago website for specific details. Thanks for watching!
Can I use this method for extra plug socket
Yes you can as long as it fitted into a suitable house and not buried in the wall.
hello Can I use this for led panel for my shop ?thanks
You need to know what the cable is on the LED panel, then check the box to see if the Wago will safely accept your cable wires. Best of luck with it.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE many thanks
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE do you have a video showing an example with two way switched lighting circuits please?
Can these be used to terminate a lighting cable for an unused light?
Yes
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Great video 10/10 ,thank you :-)
Thanks for great video
Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Could u give some advice on 1st fix plumbing plz
Hi am I correct in thinking these are ideal for a room where there are 3 lots of three lights as would be easier to use 3 way switch
Good video! I was just using something similar today (the ones without the levers). I needed to install LED light in the ceiling, there was only a wall light in the room. Is it SAFE to connect the main electrical cable to new cable using these connectors and install into the wall? As the wall cable was only 10cms. I used cable tubing over cable and plastered over the cable and the "wago connectors" the led does not jave earth so i taped it off with electrical tape and wrapped the end around new cable for led. I could not use junction box between the new couplings as it would not fit in wall, without having to break brics under plaster layer. Is it safe for wago connectors to be plastered/cemented direct i to wall? Many thanks!
They are not meant to be plastered over, they should either be eft inside a back box, socket etc, or if concealed, then put in a suitable junction box. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Great thank you, i thought as much, so i ended up chasing cable to the ceiling and there as cavity so i could use a proper cylinder, black plastic electric box to connect the two cables.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I believe these can be plastered over as they are maintenance-free? Forgive me if I’m wrong I work in industrial electrics but enjoy myself some domestic wiring too 👍🏻
@@TheKikoyy99 not sure if tgey can be plastered over directly but if used in the wagobox junction box and cable tied closed, they can be left concealed in the floor or ceiling yes. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE they should always be in a junction box such as a wago box anyway due to regulation 👍🏻
Looking to add sockets to an existing ring main... once I've cut into one of the existing ring cables, one existing leg is long enough to feed to the socket. So would I only require one wago junction box with 222 connectors to link the other end of the existing ring cable to the new leg? Only reason I ask is because I read on a forum that if your adding to the ring main you need two wago junction boxes (at either end of the new socket added to the ring, due to the connectors being down rated to 24amp). Or is it possible to get connectors rated to 32amp? Hope my question makes sense, Thanks in advance
The connectors I have are 32A rated, so you would only need 1 junction box, feeding from your ring main circuit (should be a wire coming into the existing plug and a wire out to another pre-installed plug), all you’re doing is spurring a radial from a ring main circuit, which is perfectly fine to do, just make sure the connectors are rated to 32A and you’re only adding 1 socket from your ring main and you should be fine 👍🏻
Where does the fan light cable go on ceiling light fan?
Not sure what you mean sorry.
Good detail video thanks
No problem, thanks for watching.
Hi mate, they don't always need to be housed in an enclosure.
Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
I dont room to either push all the connectors into a junction box or push the box into the ceiling hole. Can I just push the blocks into the ceiling without the junction box?
No it against ice wiring regulations.
Hi can I use a 3 way wago with only 2 connections ?
I've used a 5 way with only 3 connectors used
Hi Paul, the Wago is just a metal bar with x ammount of spring connectors. You can have a theoretically Wago with 100 ports, and still use just 2 of the ports. Though the smaller Wago the smaller volume it takes up in a junction box.
Yes of course, they don't all have to be used.
Thanks everyone for the feedback, it's a great community of support on these comments!!
Would these be good for downlights ?
thanks - good explanation
Hllo sr can i connect 4mm hard or solid wire in this..pls rpley
Yes but just check the box on the model you use. Thanks for watching.
Great video bud
Thanks for the feedback Patrick, and thanks for watching!
You can't fit two of the 5 connectors in each side of this box as stated, ('if you're using 3 or more you can only fit 2 in each side'). You can only fit 2x5 plus 2x2 in total, or 4x3, definitely not 4x5. I have a rose fitting with 4 wires connected to it, so I need 3x5 and 1x2 and they will not fit in this box! Does anyone know if the 773 fittings will fit in this box, I'd need 1x6, 2x4 and 1x2? Or is there a larger Wago box?
773 are smaller and designed specifically for lighting. You can fit 6 4's inside the box if that's any help. Good luck and thanks for watching!
You are ace 👍
Thanks!
Superb! Subscribed
Excellent, thanks again for watching and hope you enjoy the channel.
Never push 2 wires into 1 terminal....they are not designed for that and there's a good chance the 2 wires will arc if a heavy load is drawn......👍
What wago takes 10mm twin and earth cable?
No, up to 4mm cable. Hope that helps.
Which is better 221 or 222? What’s the difference?
221 is newer and a bit smaller, more streamlined. Thanks for watching.
221 smaller and transparent.
Given that you then also have to buy an enclosure for each connection, I don't see any advantage over junction boxes cost wise. I can see that they'd be good when your pushed for space somewhere (if you didn't have to then add an enclosure) and they could save a little time if wiring a whole house since all wires are stripped to the same length so that time saved would add up. I do wonder if they're a fad.
They do save time.
They do indeed. Thanks for watching!
Hi again, the main purpose of them is to meet modern regulations in the UK. Due to their specific design, if they are housed in the junction box they are classed as 'maintenance free' which means they come under less strict rules when deciding where to place them under the floor compared with a traditional junction box. They are also very easy to use, and are used regularly when testing electrics as they can join wires quickly, then be unclipped and reused very fast without the need for a screw driver. Hope that helps. Thanks again for watching!
Wago stuf is great but I prefer the clear ones, their a little smaller and I can see a good connection
Yes, fair point. Some other great products on the market these days also. Thanks for the comment!
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@@aalazawi7287 fuck off ahmed
How do the ones with levers work????
How do i connect two small cables, containing two leaders (black/red)?
You connect the red wires in one connector block and the black in another connector block as I have in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
You connect the red wires in one connector block and the black in another connector block as I have in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
How does the mechanics work with these wago blocks?
Check the wago website. All info on there.
Round here, when using the old screw caps we would also wrap em with tape (we even do so with switches and outlets before securing in boxes. Do you do so with these Wago things as well?
No need with these. They are fully insulated. Although if used in the ceiling they should be housed in the junction box designed for them. Thanks for watching.
great wanting to connect flood light to mains power
Best of luck with it.
Hi mate I love your videos always clear etc so I can use these to say slip wiring to a socket under floorboards and feed an additional live to a fused box for a kitchen extractor ? (3amp) thanks
Not entirely sure what you mean, but if you're looking to run power to a fan from a ring circuit (with sockets) then you need to run the cable from either a socket or junction box to a fused switch with a 3amp fuse, then from this switch to the fan. That allows you to safely isolate the fan if required, and makes the wiring safe by protecting it with a 3 amp fuse. It's called a fused spur. No video on this yet, but hopefully one day when I have time!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi thanks for your reply yes I already have a fused isolation switch a white 1 for now I'll changing it to silver eventually obvs as u stated with a 3 amp fuse im hoping and if you can quote me on thus if im right to fund a junction box under floor boards that are for the sockets in kitchen to that affect wire from this junction box chased down to the isolation switch (3amp) then from that switch back up through the chase then back down to the extractor (non ducted ) ??? Thanks in advance
@@kevinhancock4064 your kitchen wiring if it's fairly new, should be on its own circuit so prob no junction box to sockets. There maybe a junction box on the circuit with a spur to the switch in which case you only need to go from switch to fan. That said, when messing round with existing electrics there could be any number of issues with the existing set up. Having it tested and inspected by a qualified electrician will ensure the existing circuits and any additional wiring will be functional and safe. Depending on what you intend to do, it maybe noticfiable work which would require it to be signed off by a qualified electrician. Hope tgat helps and best of luck with it!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi thanks old house so no I'd have to put the isolation box/switch in not one there as of yet
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Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, I don't understand why the maximum size for solid cable is stated as 2.5mm2, when I can confirm that 4mm2 solid cable comfortably fits inside the connector as I've tried it as a test and if the maximum rating for this connector is 32amps, then why are we only limited to using 2.5mm2 solid cable and not 4mm2?? Why would only stranded 4mm2 be acceptable? Are you able to shed some light on this? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
It's just what the product has been tested to do safely I guess. You should always use products in accordance with the manufacturer's guidance as they will have been through rigorous tests to meet British and European standards. They may well accept a 4mm wire but weather the product has been safely tested using a 4mm wire is another matter. You could always ask the manufacturer? Sorry if that's not answered your question. Thanks for watching!
Hi there, many thanks for the reply! I would imagine you're right; I just needed a second opinion. Luckily I have found an alternative product (221 series) which is capable of housing 4mm solid cable: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412C.html
Thanks a lot.
No problem, thanks for watching!
Is it okay to have an empty port? I only have 4 port and 3 wires
Yes. I like having just 1 or 2 sizes at all times and just connect what I need. An extra port doesn't make a difference.
I like it