Please provide more detailed instructions for using the home polish and clean kit when you don't have a power polisher. After rubbing with the polishing compound ( can you use paper towels or what is recommended), do you have to wash off the residue with water before using the Smooth? It sounds like you are supposed to leave the Smooth to dry before wiping, but that seems wrong. It would be very helpful to include basic instructions in the package.
Land sakes, I wish you guys had been around back when I was in office. That beagle Lyndon had was just brutal on the tops with his claws! I haven’t seen any of your competitor brands that come close. Even if they did, they don’t provide the detailed instructions like you do. Nice work
I just finished my first commissioned counter top job at a cottage at a retirement village. I used the previous method using water with just the Mirka pads only and also using the Meguiar's 105 with an 8 " foam pad. It seems like it left small circular scratches in certain lighting angles that would not come out. The new couple loved it though, but I will look to use the new method to hopefully achieve a non scratchy looking surface. The cleaner is something I inquired about to you about 6 months ago. I am glad to see that you now have one because I did not know what to wipe the counter top down with to remove the residue from the polish. It looked beautiful as long as you did not touch it, lol! I will look for it on your website. Great Job and thank you for all of the very informative videos!!
I had the same issues with the little circles (I call them fish scales). I wasn’t sure if they were caused by the compound or the waffle pad. I did realize that over s short time those “fish scales” disappeared.
Jason I have the same problem with the (fish scales) and just cannot seem to get them out, I know they come from the sanding process. I have attacked this problem from every direction I can think of, even took a cedar table to a shop that compounds and polishes million dollar motor homes, and let them go at it. They had never compounded epoxy before and had about the same luck I did. I got the finish to look super shiny but could not get the )fish scales) out so I took the legs off and sanded the top back to wood, I was sick about the time and money I had put into this project just to run it through the drum sander and start over. (you said they disappeared)? I guess i'm to OCD for this step. I have a room dedicated to paint and pouring Plastic on the walls filtered positive pressure and I clean with water and then dust before every final pour and still get dust and other tiny crap in my tables. So not sanding and polishing is not an option. ANY FEED BACK WOULD BE GREAT!
@@BG-dv5mm It is from the sanding as the epoxy balls up on the sand paper. Water helps as a medium between the epoxy and the sand paper, leaving a better sanding finish... Some like to leave the epoxy less polished, appearing to be a matte finish. I'm not a fan as this is simply allowing the scratch to remain, even as fine as they are.
Thanks for the heads up on the new polish! I am still picking up a tool and finding little white specks of Maguiars every once in awhile. That will make the polishing clean up much easier.
That's a very helpful video. Would like to see you do more of these demos with pre-installed countertops. Sanding inside corners with a DA sander under top cabinets ain't happening. Would be good to see how you tackle that.
Same Issue. I am thinking once i'm done with a particular git i'm going to the corners by hand and repeat with the disk and an approtiat shaped block. Probably better to do that first but only 2x pads in a kit. I don't have a lot of sf so will i see how the first grit goes and use the second disk for that if i can get away with it. If i wasn't on such a tight budget i would probably just order an extra Sanding Assortment Pack from Stone Coat Countertops and be done with it.
Great video (of course)! However, I wish you had taped off a part to show the comparison of the sheens! Could you maybe make a video of the comparison? Thank you!
3M makes a 5000 grit pad, just an FYI. Also when connecting a vacuum system the Oneida Dust Deputy is awesome for saving money on vacuum bags and maintaining suction. When I’ve sanded floors in occupied homes and so forth, customers have been astounded at how little dust escapes the system.
Your product has definitely evolved, I bought the nieko polisher and the McGuire's back in January when I started doing this and my results were very hit and miss and I ALWAYS ended up with polishing compound everywhere. I actually bought a hexlogic pad and put it on my orbital...it seemed to help. But this new system looks like a winner, I can't wait to try it.
we had a professional do our epoxy counter tops, about 11 months later we had some red stains on part of it and were able to remove them by rubbing them out with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sheets and lots of elbow grease, but now that part of the counter top lost the high gloss, would your compound work on putting the gloss back on that part?
Maybe this will work for my bathroom countertop, I had a good pour, but saw some debris in it when it dried. I dont want to sand down and repour another top coat.
hai guys good videos ,i am from india and also maid a small table by using by resign.but i dont kno the product name of the polish material .can u please tell the name of the product ,
Wonderful instruction and thanks for sharing. I have sanded epoxy numerous times, (not even close to knowing what I am doing!), but whatever I do I can't seem to avoid those dastardly fine swirl marks from the orbital sander, even when starting at 180 grit and working up to 2000 and even higher. I always seem to have those marks. Any suggestions on how I can avoid/remove those marks would be much appreciated. I tried both the dry sanding disc and wet/dry sanding paper.
Will this work with the heat resistant epoxy? I did not use top coat for the flood coat and I have an area I had to dress up on the edge. I went to 4000 but still dull compared to the rest of the love edge slab. Any tips ?
You can’t. I’ve been in this industry 30 years. It will never look like it did brand new. That crystal clear glass look cannot be achieved once gone, this is the downside to epoxy. You can make it look nice but never like when new glass look. These Guys will never tell you that when selling you on it,
Thanks for watching Zahra! Check out our flooring tutorial to get the best information to do your project! -Nathan studio.ua-cam.com/users/videops1usG4f5ik/edit
How long is it recommended to wait after the 2nd coat is applied before sanding and polishing. I can feel how, for lack of better term, "mushy" it is after it dries. Is that ok to sand right away?
Just had my counter tops done here in SW Florida and I have to tell you that the counters are soft and VERY prone to scratches. While it looks great, I would have never done the job if I would have known I would have to sand and buff the counters multiple times a year!! They told me that their Sherwin Williams product was the best! Total BS. I am also hearing that there is a hardener coat available to apply at the end of the job from another contractor. Maybe you folks would like to ask about that!
ETI makes their own epoxy and is tough stuff when mixed right, called Envirotex Lite. Not enough hardener and the job comes out soft like your counters. You can roll out a thin coat of epoxy to seal your counter.
I used the polishing compound and it did add a gloss to my tabletop. But then I used the liquid smooth and it made the finish dull again. What causes that? Isn’t it supposed to keep it glossy?
Are you starting out low and slow at first to spread your compound then cranking it up all the way on your buffer? Curious. I have a "long throw" random orbit buffer similar to yours on the way. Supposedly those long throw polishers give better results. Yours is either a 15mm or 21mm I think.
Does your polishing compound remove pigtail from sanding. I have watched a lot of your videos and each time I sand my coffee table I always notice I have pigtail at the end no matter what grit I sand up to. What do you recommend?
I was asked a question about repairs. If, in the worst case scenario, a big gouge or large and deep scratch is made in the clear coat. How easy would it be to repair that? Sand everything much like you do here and put another clear coat on?
This just happened to me and I filled the spot with two layers 24 hours apart. Waiting on the second layer to finish drying to see how smooth it bonded together then will sand/polish.
Is this polishing sanding method done on the top coat product or is this just done straight after the epoxy cures. I am confused if this was sanded and polished after a the use of the top coat product
Hi I have just done a countertop and have an uneven surface, I was going to sand it with 220 sandpaper and then give a finish top coat, will that give me a gloss finish or will it look flat?
Its similar to polishing your car. He used a compound and mistakenly called it a polish. Once you've gone over with your compound to get the sanding scratches out then you can go with a polish. I used 3D products and I would suggest the HD polish or HD Speed as a final polish.
So I poured stone coat for the first time on Saturday, but unfortunately I left my backsplash pieces outside. It dried with a haze on it. My question is how soon after pouring can I sand and polish?
We usually suggest about 7 days for sanding and polishing. If you are doing another coat you are good to sand after 24 hours and apply another coat. You Got This!
Hi, Mike, I love this technique of Epoxy...going to order soon. but after counter tops are finished, Do you have to clean and polish like this? if so How soon after it is complete? or is it ONLY when you have scratches and/or cuts in epoxy.
Would this sanding and polishing be done after the Ultimate Top Coat is applied? So far my understanding is that take the following steps: 1) Cut and sand the counter top out of MDF (that is what we are using for our outdoor bar). 2) Applying bonding primer and then sand with 220 grit 3) Apply epoxy undercoat then sand with 220 grit 4) Apply 1st layer of epoxy with color formula, dry overnight and sand with 220 grit 5) Apply clear epoxy layer, dry overnight and sand with 220 grit 6) Apply Ultimate Top Coat, dry overnight 7) Wait 5-7 days for epoxy to harden 8) Use sanding kit to sand for each supplied grit in your kit in increasing grits until done going side to side and then up and down and the edges 9) Apply the polish and let that dry 10) Apply liquid smooth product and then you are done!
Minus the polishing steps, this is what I did based on what they said over a few of their videos. Worked great. Now I am nervous about messing up the finish when polishing it all.
I have dealt with the pain of the spray of Meguiars. However, I don’t want to have to buy a new buffer after buying the one you used in your previous video. So, will this new polish compound work fine with the old version of polisher?
The thing is they are two very different machines, one being the regular buffer/polisher that just spins, and the other is the dual action random orbit buffer/polisher. The first one tends to be much more aggressive.
Is this a process that creates a lot of dust? Am wondering what fallout I would have if I sanded and polished in place in my kitchen. Also is there a need for a respirator mask?
For this final polish, can you please confirm that you're starting off with a piece that has gone through final flooding and torching (i.e., where you stop in many of your videos)?
Great question Xandrosi! This piece did have a final flood coat on it before we polished. We like to wait 5-7 days with our project in room temperature before we polish. We have tested every sanding disc we can get our hands on, and we have had the best luck with Merka gold and Aberlon discs. We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here:www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: ua-cam.com/video/iFpzdvPaQl0T/v-deo.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976 www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/sanding-assortment-pack
Very nice finish. But can you bring it up to a high shine if you wanted to? My friends laugh saying I'm like an old crow that's attracted to shiny objects. lol
Karen I feel the same way I pour over natural wood and want the shine back as close as possible, but cannot get the (fish scale) scratches as they were referred to in earlier posts out of my finishes. I have friends come over and think i'm just too picky, but a table as expensive as these I want them as close to perfect as can be. I'm trying to start a business but if I cannot get a finish without sanding scratches in it soon I'll have to go another direction, I literally have thousands invested in this venture and will try a few more times then I'm going to have to cut my losses.
What if you want the shine? I understand that for future use that it might be useful to do when there are scratches but in the beginning I want it to shine and get rid of the imperfections. Is that possible?
Dont go to such a low grit. Start around 600 or 800 and build up to 3000 - 5000. Presta compounds would work. Make sure compound isn't to abrasive. Finish off with glaze. Should give you the mirror finish and remove minor nibs and imperfections.
I've always had a problem getting rid of the tiny curly ques ... I certainly hope this will help solve that issue. What is your polishing compound you now sell? Is it some sort of a rubbing compound? Do you list what's in the product on the bottles?
Great question and thank you for watching New Chapter Art! Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is much more scratch resistant than other epoxies, but it can scratch. Scratches usually happen from objects that are rough or sharp, or from new epoxy finishes. Small scratches are easily polished out. Usually, you can take a rag and some compound and polish out a scratch quickly. If the ratio when you mixed was correct and the temperature was not below 65 degrees fahrenhiet, you should have a top with normal durability. Please feel free to contact us anytime with questions or for project support. (541)450-1976
You may be referring to the tiny little scratches that you will get from sanding? Often times those are difficult to completely get rid of unless you are some sort of polishing professional like a couple of people on here claim to be. They say they can get it back to mirror finish... and I say that's just not going to happen. (as do the Stone Coat guys) I think the little tiny scratches that I'm speaking of are from the sanding process and unless you are really good and know what to look for those might be there to stay... but they are very hard to see by the normal person... if they aren't trying to find them they often don't see them at all.
@@daysdesigns They showed up after wiping the surface with a wet paper towel. But the can only be seen at a angle. Problem is it is an art piece and before I can try to sell it, I need to make sure that it is normal. I wouldn't want to sell something for it to get worse
I know this is for countertops, but I am doing resin paintings and was wondering if you can polish them the same way? I found a hair that I missed in my top coat of resin and would like to sand and buff without having to do another coat. Is this possible?
The Art Coat can be polished just like the Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is in this video, great question! Let us know if you have any further, we would love to help you out over the phone. 541-450-1976
Stone Coat Countertops, would I start with a lot higher sand paper and buff with the same stuff. I’ve watched you on Artists Till Death and have ordered your art coat resin. I’m anxious to try it.
Great question Lori! We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: ua-cam.com/video/iFpzdvPaQl0T/v-deo.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976
Help me out please! I did my countertops a few months ago. I love them! I would like to just knock the shine off. They are very smooth with no scratches. I don't feel like they are thick enough to sand them so many times as you did here, and I am worried about swirl marks. Can I just hand sand the top of them? If no to hand sanding how do I avoid the swirls? I guess I also don't understand why you have to start low and work your way up with grit.
Great question JB! We started at the lowest grit in this video to show a worst case scenario, you can start at 500 grit and work your way up from there on a newer epoxy surface, give us a call and we would love to help! (541)450-1976
Awesome!! Love this!! Do you recommend always starting with a lower grit, less than the finishing grit? Or, on a freshly finalized piece, can you just do a 3000 or 4000 grit sanding and polish?
Amber LaMere My question exactly! If I'm happy with the smoothness of my top coat, and I just want to barely nudge the sheen down to realistic looking polished granite, is there another reason to progress through all those grits?
It actually IS different than a car's finish though... so it will react differently. Like he said, it doesn't work nearly as well if you just start at 3000 or 4000 grit then polish, it's not nearly as good a finish. I tried it yesterday actually... and I would have to agree with them. May take longer... but the result is much better in the end.
Sadly the light scratches on my epoxy counters have been accumulating at a rapid pace with light activity. Sanding and refinishing isn't practical in a home environment.
I've lived in full-on construction many times--not ideal, but very doable. This little bit of sanding is very easy to do with just a little bit of prep and clean up. I wouldn't beat an eye at this.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention Allen! Are you viewing the page on a mobile device or desktop? Call or write us and we would be more than happy to answer any questions you have and can provide you with links to the tools we use. (541)450-1976
@@StoneCoatCountertops Ok I figured out the issue. The links do not display on Google Chrome but they will on Edge (Explorer). Really need to get a web designer that reaches all browsers. Not just Edge (Explorer).
This may be a stupid a question, but why bother with the 600 grit, if you have to start back at 500 grit with the other paper? Could you just do the 220, 500, 1000,2000,3000,4000? I must be missing something, lol. Apologies & Thanks in advance.
hey i got a question..you know how ppl want updated fantastic looking bathrooms with tiles and stone? have you guys ever thought of trying it on a cast iron claw foot tub??? im wondering if it could handle the long periods of heat and scrubbing? maybe go to a yrd sale or a farm or junk yrd and just for kicks experiement on 1.. i bet it would be unreal gorgeous ;];];];] i was scrolling through a swap sell guide in my area and they have 2 good condition claw foot tubs for free you haul...and then under that ad someone was selling field stone..... thats when i came up with the idea for you guys to try out;];];];] what do you think???
Hey Mike hears A pointer you may or may not have thought Of on and install if you have a really tight fitting counter Top it's a great idea to tape a piece of aluminum flashing to the wall then when you come down with your top And its squeezing in They're really tight You Won't dig up your dry wall and when you're done you just simply pull the flashing out it works great I'm done it many times on other kinds of Tops
Hello, I really liked your videos and thank you for all nice tips about epoxy. I am designing accesorizes and decoration object which are also need sanding and polishing. However, since I live in Turkey I am not able to order your products. Epoxy resin is a new material for me to work with and I am in trouble with all the scratches of sanding. I have tried to make a clear coat after sanding but I am not always working with the flat objects. So ı need some other product to remove the scratches and make my accecorizes shiny. We don't have polishing compounder specially for resin in Turkey but I really appreciate if you can suggest me something similar that I can use. Sorry for the loooooong message. I will really look forward to your reply :))
Great question melisa enes! Meguiar’s 105 is a polish that we like that may be available in your country! Feel free to call us at 541-450-1976 for project support!
@@StoneCoatCountertopsI am in Ghana and most of product are not available for the polishing of the finial work... Pls is there any other Universal polishing product which I can easily find in my country to polish my works pls.
Do you do this after epoxy pours to achieve the end result? (A really nice glass shine like all your videos end) Or is this more of a refinishing process for later down the road?
i love your work and every project you do....but i have 1 tiny complaint....is there ANY WAY TO SOMEHOW STOP THE ECHOING?? i honestly CANNOT HANDLE your tone and voice BOUNCING off the walls.. it makes my head pound...maybe were a head set with a mike..so you dont have to talk so loud??? other then that your #1 all the way;];];];] please find a solution..so i can watch your videos ;];];];]
Please provide more detailed instructions for using the home polish and clean kit when you don't have a power polisher. After rubbing with the polishing compound ( can you use paper towels or what is recommended), do you have to wash off the residue with water before using the Smooth? It sounds like you are supposed to leave the Smooth to dry before wiping, but that seems wrong. It would be very helpful to include basic instructions in the package.
Land sakes, I wish you guys had been around back when I was in office. That beagle Lyndon had was just brutal on the tops with his claws! I haven’t seen any of your competitor brands that come close. Even if they did, they don’t provide the detailed instructions like you do.
Nice work
I just finished my first commissioned counter top job at a cottage at a retirement village. I used the previous method using water with just the Mirka pads only and also using the Meguiar's 105 with an 8 " foam pad. It seems like it left small circular scratches in certain lighting angles that would not come out. The new couple loved it though, but I will look to use the new method to hopefully achieve a non scratchy looking surface. The cleaner is something I inquired about to you about 6 months ago. I am glad to see that you now have one because I did not know what to wipe the counter top down with to remove the residue from the polish. It looked beautiful as long as you did not touch it, lol! I will look for it on your website. Great Job
and thank you for all of the very informative videos!!
i had same issues :(
I had the same issues with the little circles (I call them fish scales). I wasn’t sure if they were caused by the compound or the waffle pad. I did realize that over s short time those “fish scales” disappeared.
Jason I have the same problem with the (fish scales) and just cannot seem to get them out, I know they come from the sanding process. I have attacked this problem from every direction I can think of, even took a cedar table to a shop that compounds and polishes million dollar motor homes, and let them go at it. They had never compounded epoxy before and had about the same luck I did. I got the finish to look super shiny but could not get the )fish scales) out so I took the legs off and sanded the top back to wood, I was sick about the time and money I had put into this project just to run it through the drum sander and start over. (you said they disappeared)? I guess i'm to OCD for this step. I have a room dedicated to paint and pouring Plastic on the walls filtered positive pressure and I clean with water and then dust before every final pour and still get dust and other tiny crap in my tables. So not sanding and polishing is not an option. ANY FEED BACK WOULD BE GREAT!
@@BG-dv5mm It is from the sanding as the epoxy balls up on the sand paper. Water helps as a medium between the epoxy and the sand paper, leaving a better sanding finish... Some like to leave the epoxy less polished, appearing to be a matte finish. I'm not a fan as this is simply allowing the scratch to remain, even as fine as they are.
Thanks for the heads up on the new polish! I am still picking up a tool and finding little white specks of Maguiars every once in awhile. That will make the polishing clean up much easier.
That's a very helpful video. Would like to see you do more of these demos with pre-installed countertops. Sanding inside corners with a DA sander under top cabinets ain't happening. Would be good to see how you tackle that.
Same Issue. I am thinking once i'm done with a particular git i'm going to the corners by hand and repeat with the disk and an approtiat shaped block. Probably better to do that first but only 2x pads in a kit. I don't have a lot of sf so will i see how the first grit goes and use the second disk for that if i can get away with it. If i wasn't on such a tight budget i would probably just order an extra Sanding Assortment Pack from Stone Coat Countertops and be done with it.
Great video (of course)! However, I wish you had taped off a part to show the comparison of the sheens! Could you maybe make a video of the comparison? Thank you!
3M makes a 5000 grit pad, just an FYI. Also when connecting a vacuum system the Oneida Dust Deputy is awesome for saving money on vacuum bags and maintaining suction. When I’ve sanded floors in occupied homes and so forth, customers have been astounded at how little dust escapes the system.
charles hetrick Was
Thanks for the polishing update! Gonna give it a whirl today then send you some pictures. I got this.
How'd it go Mack?
Well I'm better at prep, pouring, and design than polishing, haha, will send pics the pics tonight.
Your product has definitely evolved, I bought the nieko polisher and the McGuire's back in January when I started doing this and my results were very hit and miss and I ALWAYS ended up with polishing compound everywhere. I actually bought a hexlogic pad and put it on my orbital...it seemed to help. But this new system looks like a winner, I can't wait to try it.
Thanks Mike! This definitely will help me get the polishing done next week.
we had a professional do our epoxy counter tops, about 11 months later we had some red stains on part of it and were able to remove them by rubbing them out with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sheets and lots of elbow grease, but now that part of the counter top lost the high gloss, would your compound work on putting the gloss back on that part?
You are a great teacher thanks I was struggling with my counter top you made it very easy thanks
That's great! Did you know you can also polish river tables with toothpaste?
if I don't have a polisher can the compound be used and applied by hand? Will that be enough or is a polisher a must?
You'll need a polisher..
Did this have the UTC on it or bare flood coat
are u sanding a top coat or the epoxy itself
Which buffing machine do you use?
And how long should the epoxy cure before polishing?
How often do you have to polish?
U guys are doing great , l luv you men..
Maybe this will work for my bathroom countertop, I had a good pour, but saw some debris in it when it dried. I dont want to sand down and repour another top coat.
hai guys good videos ,i am from india and also maid a small table by using by resign.but i dont kno the product name of the polish material .can u please tell the name of the product ,
Wonderful instruction and thanks for sharing. I have sanded epoxy numerous times, (not even close to knowing what I am doing!), but whatever I do I can't seem to avoid those dastardly fine swirl marks from the orbital sander, even when starting at 180 grit and working up to 2000 and even higher. I always seem to have those marks. Any suggestions on how I can avoid/remove those marks would be much appreciated. I tried both the dry sanding disc and wet/dry sanding paper.
Use 3M swirl mark remover liquid.
Perfect….i am redoing my backyard kitchen thanks
Thank you for watching! Please let us know if you have any questions. You Got This!
Polish used ? Can only see maguiers on your link. Thanks
Hi there. Is epoxy required to use the right compound to buff and polish or can be use with any compound like car buffing compound and Polish. ?
I heard car polish works good. I haven't tried myself yet
What grit did you end at here before beginning the polishing compounds?
Will this work with the heat resistant epoxy? I did not use top coat for the flood coat and I have an area I had to dress up on the edge. I went to 4000 but still dull compared to the rest of the love edge slab. Any tips ?
what are the additional steps/products for a higher sheen on an epoxy table? Thanks
You can’t. I’ve been in this industry 30 years. It will never look like it did brand new. That crystal clear glass look cannot be achieved once gone, this is the downside to epoxy. You can make it look nice but never like when new glass look. These Guys will never tell you that when selling you on it,
Chris Burnsed Thanks
Do you sand and polish each time after the final pour, or do you leave it as is after you did a job in somebodies kitchen?
what is the finish you use on this??
Is it important to always sand and polish every layer of epoxy table made on mdf ?
Excellent Guys
Can I do the same with floor? And what if I covered my surface with urethane before??? Thanks
Thanks for watching Zahra! Check out our flooring tutorial to get the best information to do your project! -Nathan studio.ua-cam.com/users/videops1usG4f5ik/edit
How long is it recommended to wait after the 2nd coat is applied before sanding and polishing. I can feel how, for lack of better term, "mushy" it is after it dries. Is that ok to sand right away?
Need to wait a week. (5-7 days)
All that buffing with so many pads…is this taking off the UTC and some of the clear coat?
Just had my counter tops done here in SW Florida and I have to tell you that the counters are soft and VERY prone to scratches. While it looks great, I would have never done the job if I would have known I would have to sand and buff the counters multiple times a year!! They told me that their Sherwin Williams product was the best! Total BS. I am also hearing that there is a hardener coat available to apply at the end of the job from another contractor. Maybe you folks would like to ask about that!
ETI makes their own epoxy and is tough stuff when mixed right, called Envirotex Lite. Not enough hardener and the job comes out soft like your counters. You can roll out a thin coat of epoxy to seal your counter.
I used the polishing compound and it did add a gloss to my tabletop. But then I used the liquid smooth and it made the finish dull again. What causes that? Isn’t it supposed to keep it glossy?
this is a great question...please answer
What speed did you use on the compound and polishing?
Thanks
Are you starting out low and slow at first to spread your compound then cranking it up all the way on your buffer? Curious. I have a "long throw" random orbit buffer similar to yours on the way. Supposedly those long throw polishers give better results. Yours is either a 15mm or 21mm I think.
Can't wait to order a kit
Does your polishing compound remove pigtail from sanding. I have watched a lot of your videos and each time I sand my coffee table I always notice I have pigtail at the end no matter what grit I sand up to. What do you recommend?
How soon after doing the top coat would you sand and polish?
I was asked a question about repairs. If, in the worst case scenario, a big gouge or large and deep scratch is made in the clear coat. How easy would it be to repair that? Sand everything much like you do here and put another clear coat on?
StoneCoatCountertops would you need to sand and polish the entire piece or just the bad spot?
J Ikonic just the sanded spot
This just happened to me and I filled the spot with two layers 24 hours apart. Waiting on the second layer to finish drying to see how smooth it bonded together then will sand/polish.
i use this compound and spray... The clean smell is the first thing the client notices.. they think i cleaned their home..lol
That is wonderful feedback D'Ann Kaady-Maras thank you so much for sharing this with us!
Can this epoxy go over marble to bring back a shine?
Is this polishing sanding method done on the top coat product or is this just done straight after the epoxy cures. I am confused if this was sanded and polished after a the use of the top coat product
This is done before the ultimate top coat. You cant sand the UTC.
How do I get shiny lines out of a wooden apoxy table?
Can a random orbital sander be used to polish?
Hi I have just done a countertop and have an uneven surface, I was going to sand it with 220 sandpaper and then give a finish top coat, will that give me a gloss finish or will it look flat?
it will be shiny after the top coat.
Did I miss the type of polishing compound? Would like to know one for water clear finish.
Its similar to polishing your car. He used a compound and mistakenly called it a polish. Once you've gone over with your compound to get the sanding scratches out then you can go with a polish. I used 3D products and I would suggest the HD polish or HD Speed as a final polish.
So I poured stone coat for the first time on Saturday, but unfortunately I left my backsplash pieces outside. It dried with a haze on it. My question is how soon after pouring can I sand and polish?
We usually suggest about 7 days for sanding and polishing. If you are doing another coat you are good to sand after 24 hours and apply another coat. You Got This!
Hi, Mike, I love this technique of Epoxy...going to order soon. but after counter tops are finished, Do you have to clean and polish like this? if so How soon after it is complete? or is it ONLY when you have scratches and/or cuts in epoxy.
OR do you just polish with the Liquid Smooth periodically.? just soap and water clean for normal use counter?
Thanks for the step by step. I really appreciate how you give such detailed instructions!
I'm polishing a bathroom countertop, and will start making
the kitchen ones next.
So basically, you sand to remove the mirror finish and make it a little more like real stone?
How many times can this be sanded before you need to do another flood coat?
Would this sanding and polishing be done after the Ultimate Top Coat is applied? So far my understanding is that take the following steps:
1) Cut and sand the counter top out of MDF (that is what we are using for our outdoor bar).
2) Applying bonding primer and then sand with 220 grit
3) Apply epoxy undercoat then sand with 220 grit
4) Apply 1st layer of epoxy with color formula, dry overnight and sand with 220 grit
5) Apply clear epoxy layer, dry overnight and sand with 220 grit
6) Apply Ultimate Top Coat, dry overnight
7) Wait 5-7 days for epoxy to harden
8) Use sanding kit to sand for each supplied grit in your kit in increasing grits until done going side to side and then up and down and the edges
9) Apply the polish and let that dry
10) Apply liquid smooth product and then you are done!
Aww man I really need them to reply to this I have the same questions
Minus the polishing steps, this is what I did based on what they said over a few of their videos. Worked great. Now I am nervous about messing up the finish when polishing it all.
FYI, there is no 240 anymore. 220 to 320 in the kit they sell via amazon.
I have tried to master this.
I have dealt with the pain of the spray of Meguiars. However, I don’t want to have to buy a new buffer after buying the one you used in your previous video. So, will this new polish compound work fine with the old version of polisher?
The thing is they are two very different machines, one being the regular buffer/polisher that just spins, and the other is the dual action random orbit buffer/polisher. The first one tends to be much more aggressive.
do you need to finsh the top coat everytime ?
Is this a process that creates a lot of dust? Am wondering what fallout I would have if I sanded and polished in place in my kitchen. Also is there a need for a respirator mask?
If you watch the video all your questions are addressed!
Very informative! It's a lot of work but it looks great!
For this final polish, can you please confirm that you're starting off with a piece that has gone through final flooding and torching (i.e., where you stop in many of your videos)?
Great question Xandrosi! This piece did have a final flood coat on it before we polished. We like to wait 5-7 days with our project in room temperature before we polish. We have tested every sanding disc we can get our hands on, and we have had the best luck with Merka gold and Aberlon discs. We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here:www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: ua-cam.com/video/iFpzdvPaQl0T/v-deo.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976
www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/sanding-assortment-pack
Stone Coat Countertops, thank you. I need to try this.
Awesome! Let us know if you have any questions to help get you started.
Is it possible to use rotary polisher with wool/foam pads and automotive compounds
Yes
After said and done how much resin is removed?
Very nice finish. But can you bring it up to a high shine if you wanted to? My friends laugh saying I'm like an old crow that's attracted to shiny objects. lol
Karen I feel the same way I pour over natural wood and want the shine back as close as possible, but cannot get the (fish scale) scratches as they were referred to in earlier posts out of my finishes. I have friends come over and think i'm just too picky, but a table as expensive as these I want them as close to perfect as can be. I'm trying to start a business but if I cannot get a finish without sanding scratches in it soon I'll have to go another direction, I literally have thousands invested in this venture and will try a few more times then I'm going to have to cut my losses.
About how thick is that clear top coat?
Do I remember you saying about one sixteenth of an inch in one of your other videos?
What if you want the shine? I understand that for future use that it might be useful to do when there are scratches but in the beginning I want it to shine and get rid of the imperfections. Is that possible?
Dont go to such a low grit. Start around 600 or 800 and build up to 3000 - 5000. Presta compounds would work. Make sure compound isn't to abrasive. Finish off with glaze. Should give you the mirror finish and remove minor nibs and imperfections.
What compound are you using? Thanks
Love your videos!
Do you always have to sand ,& polish st finishing,? Can a second coat of epoxy be enough ic you like the wet look?
Yep. This is all optional and only if you want a honed or polished finish
So now you don't use the interference pad, correct? And no water with either disc type?
I've always had a problem getting rid of the tiny curly ques ... I certainly hope this will help solve that issue. What is your polishing compound you now sell? Is it some sort of a rubbing compound? Do you list what's in the product on the bottles?
I still found that the Abralone discs worked better with a bit of water. Just my results at least.
Are small surface scratches, (thin web like scratches that can only be seen at an angle in the light), normal?
Great question and thank you for watching New Chapter Art! Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is much more scratch resistant than other epoxies, but it can scratch. Scratches usually happen from objects that are rough or sharp, or from new epoxy finishes. Small scratches are easily polished out. Usually, you can take a rag and some compound and polish out a scratch quickly. If the ratio when you mixed was correct and the temperature was not below 65 degrees fahrenhiet, you should have a top with normal durability. Please feel free to contact us anytime with questions or for project support. (541)450-1976
You may be referring to the tiny little scratches that you will get from sanding? Often times those are difficult to completely get rid of unless you are some sort of polishing professional like a couple of people on here claim to be. They say they can get it back to mirror finish... and I say that's just not going to happen. (as do the Stone Coat guys) I think the little tiny scratches that I'm speaking of are from the sanding process and unless you are really good and know what to look for those might be there to stay... but they are very hard to see by the normal person... if they aren't trying to find them they often don't see them at all.
@@daysdesigns They showed up after wiping the surface with a wet paper towel. But the can only be seen at a angle. Problem is it is an art piece and before I can try to sell it, I need to make sure that it is normal. I wouldn't want to sell something for it to get worse
Is it only resin or is there acrylic paint as well?
Because I know paint likes to do that a lot as it dries.
Resin is over the painting
Mike what kind of polishing compound can I get at Lowes or any other store ty
I use 3D products. You'll need to go to a local automotive detailing store to get what you need not Lowes or Home Depot.
How long does the finished piece have to cure before it can endure regular daily use
30 days.
Why did the side on the table look wet?
two angle cameras - nice touch
tell me epoxy polishing cream name
Thanks for watching Shahzaib! Here is a link to our Polishing and Cleaning kit! -Nathan www.stonecoatcountertops.com/polishing-cleaning-epoxy-kit/
I know this is for countertops, but I am doing resin paintings and was wondering if you can polish them the same way? I found a hair that I missed in my top coat of resin and would like to sand and buff without having to do another coat. Is this possible?
The Art Coat can be polished just like the Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is in this video, great question! Let us know if you have any further, we would love to help you out over the phone. 541-450-1976
Stone Coat Countertops, would I start with a lot higher sand paper and buff with the same stuff. I’ve watched you on Artists Till Death and have ordered your art coat resin. I’m anxious to try it.
Great question Lori! We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: ua-cam.com/video/iFpzdvPaQl0T/v-deo.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976
Stone Coat Countertops, I ordered those things this week. Thank you!
Wonderful Lori! We can't wait to see your amazing projects!
Great video.. thanks
Thank you for watching Nicho! We are here to help, have you sanded and polished before?
Never did, but after watching your video I was motivated. I completed my project. Thanks
You Got This Nicho! Call or write us anytime with questions or for project support. (541)450-1976
Help me out please! I did my countertops a few months ago. I love them! I would like to just knock the shine off. They are very smooth with no scratches. I don't feel like they are thick enough to sand them so many times as you did here, and I am worried about swirl marks. Can I just hand sand the top of them? If no to hand sanding how do I avoid the swirls? I guess I also don't understand why you have to start low and work your way up with grit.
Great question JB! We started at the lowest grit in this video to show a worst case scenario, you can start at 500 grit and work your way up from there on a newer epoxy surface, give us a call and we would love to help! (541)450-1976
What if you want a high gloss finish on a live edge table? Not a matte finish
From what I am seeing and reading it is almost impossible unless you can keep all imperfections out during the final flood coat.
I got THIS! Thanks!
Awesome!! Love this!! Do you recommend always starting with a lower grit, less than the finishing grit? Or, on a freshly finalized piece, can you just do a 3000 or 4000 grit sanding and polish?
Amber LaMere
My question exactly! If I'm happy with the smoothness of my top coat, and I just want to barely nudge the sheen down to realistic looking polished granite, is there another reason to progress through all those grits?
Around 4:00 Mike talks about not having to start at 220, you can do whatever you want depending on what you are trying to remove.
It actually IS different than a car's finish though... so it will react differently. Like he said, it doesn't work nearly as well if you just start at 3000 or 4000 grit then polish, it's not nearly as good a finish. I tried it yesterday actually... and I would have to agree with them. May take longer... but the result is much better in the end.
Can you ever get it back to a 'MIRROR FINISH' though? I'm not finding that possible with epoxy myself.
@Gary O i did a counter 2 days ago, im going to try your method, wet sand with 3,000 then 4,000 use a finish pad with polish last.
I have been watching all the
What do you recommend for the substrate? MDF ??
MDF is a great place to start Corey Cripps! Its easy to work with, cost effective, and easily found.
Sadly the light scratches on my epoxy counters have been accumulating at a rapid pace with light activity. Sanding and refinishing isn't practical in a home environment.
I've lived in full-on construction many times--not ideal, but very doable. This little bit of sanding is very easy to do with just a little bit of prep and clean up. I wouldn't beat an eye at this.
Why do we need to sand sooo many times
Can we do it on glass epoxy projects
Your tool page has no information on it. Just thought I would give you a heads up just in case the site is messed up.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention Allen! Are you viewing the page on a mobile device or desktop? Call or write us and we would be more than happy to answer any questions you have and can provide you with links to the tools we use. (541)450-1976
@@StoneCoatCountertops Just link me here and I will check them out. :)
@@StoneCoatCountertops Ok I figured out the issue. The links do not display on Google Chrome but they will on Edge (Explorer). Really need to get a web designer that reaches all browsers. Not just Edge (Explorer).
We appreciate you getting back to us regarding the Amazon Tool Links, thank you Allen, we will look into this.
This may be a stupid a question, but why bother with the 600 grit, if you have to start back at 500 grit with the other paper? Could you just do the 220, 500, 1000,2000,3000,4000? I must be missing something, lol. Apologies & Thanks in advance.
Great question Cookie Nibz, we started back at 500 to erase any marks left by the other sanding discs!
I noticed you did not wet sand. Why do some wet sand, but you don't?
hey i got a question..you know how ppl want updated fantastic looking bathrooms with tiles and stone? have you guys ever thought of trying it on a cast iron claw foot tub??? im wondering if it could handle the long periods of heat and scrubbing? maybe go to a yrd sale or a farm or junk yrd and just for kicks experiement on 1.. i bet it would be unreal gorgeous ;];];];] i was scrolling through a swap sell guide in my area and they have 2 good condition claw foot tubs for free you haul...and then under that ad someone was selling field stone..... thats when i came up with the idea for you guys to try out;];];];] what do you think???
Hey Mike hears A pointer you may or may not have thought Of on and install if you have a really tight fitting counter Top it's a great idea to tape a piece of aluminum flashing to the wall then when you come down with your top And its squeezing in They're really tight You Won't dig up your dry wall and when you're done you just simply pull the flashing out it works great I'm done it many times on other kinds of Tops
Hello, I really liked your videos and thank you for all nice tips about epoxy. I am designing accesorizes and decoration object which are also need sanding and polishing. However, since I live in Turkey I am not able to order your products. Epoxy resin is a new material for me to work with and I am in trouble with all the scratches of sanding. I have tried to make a clear coat after sanding but I am not always working with the flat objects. So ı need some other product to remove the scratches and make my accecorizes shiny. We don't have polishing compounder specially for resin in Turkey but I really appreciate if you can suggest me something similar that I can use. Sorry for the loooooong message. I will really look forward to your reply :))
Great question melisa enes! Meguiar’s 105 is a polish that we like that may be available in your country! Feel free to call us at 541-450-1976 for project support!
Stone Coat Countertops thank you so much for your reply. I will resesrch this product.
Awesome! Let us know if you have any further questions.
@@StoneCoatCountertopsI am in Ghana and most of product are not available for the polishing of the finial work... Pls is there any other Universal polishing product which I can easily find in my country to polish my works pls.
just right I love it to become a contractor?
Do you do this after epoxy pours to achieve the end result? (A really nice glass shine like all your videos end) Or is this more of a refinishing process for later down the road?
It's not a mandatory thing... but it does give them a more realistic look because it's too shiny if you don't.
6 minutes 39 seconds made me chuckle
i love your work and every project you do....but i have 1 tiny complaint....is there ANY WAY TO SOMEHOW STOP THE ECHOING?? i honestly CANNOT HANDLE your tone and voice BOUNCING off the walls.. it makes my head pound...maybe were a head set with a mike..so you dont have to talk so loud??? other then that your #1 all the way;];];];] please find a solution..so i can watch your videos ;];];];]
LOL I love the wireless mic and thought it was great clear sound, but I am old and hard of hearing too!!!
you sound clear just bouncy and echoing all over;[;[;[;[
When is this desired? Why not sand and add another clear coat ?
The whole point was to drop the mirror finish sheen you get from pouring alone. Looks more realistic if it's knocked down a bit.