Well I called my local washing machine repair guy four times with no answer, so it looks like I'm fixing it myself ...started searching and found this video. I thought the capacitor plague ended 20 years ago ...seems not! I had no response to power on, totally dead, no relay click, no lights whatsoever. The model is a Simpson SWT7542 with a control board dated 2015, I pulled it out and found a blown cap (4.7uf 400v). Simpson sells a replacement control board for $241 ...robbery! Jaycar Electronics sells the caps for $2.50 ...soldered in two new caps and two hours later the machine is like new again ...thanks Cris, video was a great help.
You're an absolute legend man! I was about to pay a repair guy $180 just to come out and charge me a fortune for parts until I stumbled onto this video. Absolute lifesaver!!!
@@TheUltimateRecycler Thankyou So Much for your fast reply ! Yes I used a brand new high voltage 10 uf cap , the lid sensor is something to try , Thanx again I too don't like landfill & have all recycled items in my place , what a shame more people don't try do this 🤔
Just completed this same repair for my neighbor. She had the 5.5kg model but the board is the same. Cost me $1.80 for the capacitor, saved her hundreds! Thanks for this video!
That worked! Thanks man. Took me about 3 hours to do. If I to do it again I would just break the capacitor and solder the new one to its legs as others suggested. Sawing in the back of the board and then cleaning it up from the sticky stuff was the least pleasant part with a high risk of breaking something. Honestly I was surprised when it worked after all what I have done to it :))
I have the same washing machine, but I had a slightly different issue. The lid sensor seemed to screw up, but the sensor wire itself is connected to the PCB. I took out the PCB to have look and lo and behold it was the exact same capacitor problem as in this video! It was bulging and brown at the top, so replaced it and now it works again! I wasn't as lucky as you though to have a spare capacitor lying around, but it only cost $6 from Jaycar! Thanks for the video!
Funny you remind me of me. I give everything a go. If I may add when ever I’ve done an electronic repair for the sake of reliability I always substitute the capacitor for a higher temperature one, eg 105 degrees C. (Or better). I also replace all the electrolytic capacitors associated with that circuitry. (I wouldn’t have in this case either as too high a risk of damaging the board due to how effectively is glued on) I thank you for taking the time to share.
Fantastic video. This was extremely helpful and worked perfectly. For anyone about to embark on this, only thing I would recommend doing slightly differently is when using the hole saw, Drill a hole in a plank of wood first. Then line up the hole in the plank of wood to where you need the hole drilled on the plastic part and clamp the two together. This means you don't have to modify any "short" drill bits and can make sure that the hole saw is positioned perfectly and "bites" into the plastic. I've got my neighbour to thank for that bit of advice!
Great fix. Internet forums are an awesome part of the web, so much information and its always nice to find what you want in the stuff you have kept that most call crap.
@@TheUltimateRecycler thanks mate. A year ago I replaced the main bearings, seals, brake drum gearbox thingy, suspension rods. Not ready to give up on the old girl just yet. She's over 10 years old.
Such wonderful video! You are great man; I have an exactly same washing machine and got exactly same problems. Your video helps me fixing the troubles. Now my washing machine can work again, save hundreds dollars! Can’t thank you enough!
Its Sunday night. Work tomorrow. Forgot to do the washing. All g - I'll wash & put it in the dryer then. Nope. Washer wasnt having a bar of it. I think a cap BLEW. My washer had turned itself off mid cycle. Wasnt paused and flashing. hrm. I assumed the power board had popped as they do (as in power points on a board) so tried a different power point and boy did I jump. It came from under the selector knob. (To be fair it prob wasnt that loud but it seemed like it in the enclosed laundry.) I have the model the next size up: 7.5Kg and yeah the refurbed boards are a bit pricey. Too late at night now to pull it apart and check but I'm hoping it WAS a cap. Even if it ends up being the board I replace at least I've repaired it. I live a 2hr drive from the closest shop so a new washer isnt an option anyway. Thanks for a great video, I subbed. I saw another comment about things that get tossed over a cap or its just "easier" to replace the appliance. Well I recently repaired a nice big tv that only needed a cap and then got to keep the tv coz they'd bought another one. Score.
Thanks for posting this. Helped me no end 😊 I think I have discovered why that’s a weak point in the board though. I had a nice brown circle on the plastic right above where that capacitor goes in the assembly. So I reckon it’s not getting a chance to dissipate any heat that it obtains. And it’s also right at the inlet to the water, so could be temperature fluctuations caused by that too. Only issue I had was trying to line the buttons up at the end. Put it all back together, only to find the buttons didn’t work, so had to pull it all apart again 😂
Glad the video was helpful Jon. Yeah, it's possible all the waterproofing actually prevents the components from cooling during operation! This machine is still working perfectly two years later 👍😊
Thank you so much for your help , I was able to get my machine working again. I would suggest to not do any of the drilling. I cut off the capacitor from on top of the board and left the capacitor legs exposed. I then soldered the new capacitor to the legs of the old capacitor, I then covered the exposed soldering with lots of hot glue. Thanks again.
I have the same problem with my board ...how did you remove the capacitor from the top?it looks like there's no space on the bottom to cut the pins ...did you wiggle the capacitor until it broke off? Or did you cut open the capacitor? ...does the capacitor hold any charge that I should be worried about ?
@@drymoper2234 Try not to wiggle the capacitor and break the leads, as you want the capacitor leads to solder to. Cut the capacitor gently with side cutters. There is no charge on the capacitor. Use lots of hot glue to stabilize the new capacitor, Note the capacitor polarity.
@@738danny 450V is the rating as to what the capacitor can handle, so anything higher is good! You can go higher but not lower. The only consideration is it's physical size - but it should be fine 👍
Hi great tutorial video, I have a Simpson Eziset 5.5kg washing machine with a water leak from below, I have check all hoses, and can only assume its the tub seal from what I've read. Do you know how to remove the tub and replace the seal
Hi James, thanks for watching. Sorry, I'm not much help with the tub seal - that sounds a pretty major job! I'd be running the machine with the back off (and even up on blocks) so you can see exactly where the water is coming from. Sometimes a water leak can be as simple as the inlet flow into the tub splashing back and running down the outside of the tub. Good luck!
Fabulous, thanks. All seems to work BUT it now just won’t wash. Fills, rinse, spin cycles all work, no error messages. Did I pull a wire out somewhere when fixing it? Any suggestions welcome. So close!
Tip! using the hole saw cut a hole in a piece of ply or scrap wood then you can hold the ply and use that as a guide for the hole saw negating the need for the pilot drill 😁
I have a Simpson EZIset 7.5, which can't rotate the agitator. Every other thing works well. I changed the capacitor but still the same. If you have any recommendations, please do so.
Hi! I just got an Panasonic RX-1740, and the radio works perfectly but whenever I try to play a cassette it only makes a humming noise, and I was wondering if you think its an easy thing to fix by myself. I saw your video of the RX-1490 and It exactly the same problem.
A really hot soldering iron would melt a circular hole in the board without damaging the circuit board. Capacitors usually swell up like that when they've had it I've had the same problem with them in other electronic equipment. Now it's time to dismantle my washer.
Hi, I replaced my capacitor with a 450 after it was doing exactly what yours was. Now when I turn on all the lights are on and the time is flashing but I can't change any of the 4 buttons. Any ideas? Thanks for the great video!
Hi there i just completed the exact same repair on the same machine ( replaced 10 uf cap ) but Still Won't Spin !!! do you have any other idea's ?? Thanx Heaps Danny
Sorry Danny, I can't offer much assistance there! Is the cap the same or higher voltage than the one you replaced? If lower, it may have blown straight away! Maybe the lid magnetic switch is faulty?
Hi, my problem is similar, in that the display and the buttons all work with lid open but as soon as the lid is closed, the display lights up only briefly when the knob is turned to different modes then goes out. My question is how do I disconnect the water level sensor tube at the bottom. do i just pull the end of the hose out? it looks pretty tight so not sure if i can get it back on. cheers
ok i figured out, there is a hose clip - i had to turn it to be able to grab as on the forward side it has a plastic guard and couldn't pinch with fingers. the same capacitor split at the top - the funny thing is, the washing machine was sitting unused for the last 3 years and it worked the last time it was in action...
@@russkisteel It seems a very common problem with these models! It might be worth putting a higher voltage rating capacitor in. If mine plays up again, that's what I'll be doing. Let me know how your repair goes.. 😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler Ironically enough, Jaycar only stocks 10μF 450V capacitors so I'm forced to upgrade it!!! I'll go buy it and put it together and report back. cheers.
@@TheUltimateRecycler I think the repair was a success - 450V capacitor is slightly taller (25mm vs 17mm) and wider (13mm vs 10mm diameter) but still fitted and worked ok. The height of the replacement capacitor could have been an issue as there is a water mixer right underneath the capacitor. I ran a tub clean cycle and a fast wash cycle with low water level with no drama, but slightly nervous about whether the water level tube is in tact as I think I might have stretched it a bit. I will have to run a heavy wash + full water level tomorrow to be sure.
Once you have bored the hole to access C6, it is not too difficult to remove the entire board from the plastic housing. Run a sharp blade around the edge of the board, and gently push via the hole. Release the board from the plastic hold-down clips, and use some care!
Hi I managed to put a new capacitor in ( could only get a 450 volt so had to make do with that ) and i managed to get it working again, now I have a new problem… 🤦🏻♂️ it won’t spin now it seems to be draining fine but the clothes come out soaking and I’ve noticed it’s not doing a spin cycle, any help would be greatly appreciated!! Stuck and don’t want to fork out hundreds
@@lawsoofficial7117 I'm not sure on that. Maybe check that the air pressure line from the tub to the control panel just in case the machine isn't switching to spin because it thinks there's still a full tub of water? It's possible the air line can get kinked when reassembling. Just guessing here..
@@TheUltimateRecycler i kinked my air hose and it over filled all down my floor drain luckily :). Maybe reseat all the connectors on the main boards again....
The problem we had was that the lights on the control paneI were flashing, and the relay was clicking. The problem was C6. I have traced out a little bit of the power circuit. 240V in from the power connector, then via wire jumpers and then under the relay, cross over via the blue blob which seems to an inrush varistor, then via R1 to D1, then to C6. This is a half-wave rectifier supplying DC to C6. The circuit then seems to be a high frequency chopper driving T1, which supplies the electronics. If you carefully measure the 5V and 12V rails on one of the connectors, you will probably find that the rails are fluctuating. The two devices on the heat sink drive the motor, one for CW, the other for CCW. Hope this helps some one.
hi I'm trying to repair my SWT5541 the 5.5kg of this model but its saying that the lid is still open but its not - I replaced the microswitch for the lid but its still coming up as the lid is open. do you have the schematics please!!!! pls help! ahhaha also awesome vid!
@@TheUltimateRecycler WOW thank you so much for the fast reply, ive been looking all day yesterday Im not sure what the caps are but ill keep trying, thank you so much!
You were lucky it was only the capacitor and was able to spot the fault, its hard to find a fault when you can't see the damage, also next time try and use a heat gun to remove the silicone it peels straight off, good job anyway
Thanks mate! Hopefully I won't need to do it again.. but if I do, I will try a heat gun 👍 Incidentally, this machine is still working perfectly and has done all our washing since this repair (six months now!) 😁
Well I called my local washing machine repair guy four times with no answer, so it looks like I'm fixing it myself ...started searching and found this video. I thought the capacitor plague ended 20 years ago ...seems not!
I had no response to power on, totally dead, no relay click, no lights whatsoever. The model is a Simpson SWT7542 with a control board dated 2015, I pulled it out and found a blown cap (4.7uf 400v).
Simpson sells a replacement control board for $241 ...robbery! Jaycar Electronics sells the caps for $2.50 ...soldered in two new caps and two hours later the machine is like new again ...thanks Cris, video was a great help.
Thats excellent mate! Congrats on your successful repair! 😀👍
You're an absolute legend man! I was about to pay a repair guy $180 just to come out and charge me a fortune for parts until I stumbled onto this video. Absolute lifesaver!!!
That's awesome.. so pleased to help! 😊👍
@@TheUltimateRecycler Thankyou So Much for your fast reply ! Yes I used a brand new high voltage 10 uf cap , the lid sensor is something to try , Thanx again I too don't like landfill & have all recycled items in my place , what a shame more people don't try do this 🤔
Just completed this same repair for my neighbor. She had the 5.5kg model but the board is the same. Cost me $1.80 for the capacitor, saved her hundreds! Thanks for this video!
That's awesome! Great work 👍😊
What's her number buddy!!!?
@@KhorasanSheikh 4
That worked! Thanks man. Took me about 3 hours to do. If I to do it again I would just break the capacitor and solder the new one to its legs as others suggested. Sawing in the back of the board and then cleaning it up from the sticky stuff was the least pleasant part with a high risk of breaking something. Honestly I was surprised when it worked after all what I have done to it :))
That's awesome! Well done 👏 Yes, there is some good advice in the comments on improvements to the process 👍😊
I have the same washing machine, but I had a slightly different issue.
The lid sensor seemed to screw up, but the sensor wire itself is connected to the PCB. I took out the PCB to have look and lo and behold it was the exact same capacitor problem as in this video!
It was bulging and brown at the top, so replaced it and now it works again!
I wasn't as lucky as you though to have a spare capacitor lying around, but it only cost $6 from Jaycar!
Thanks for the video!
Well done Steven!! Obviously this capacitor is the weak link in the circuit!
Thank you for this video, in lockdown with a young baby on my own and FIXED our machine!! Many thanks
Thanks Jennifer! Well done you!! 👍😊
Bloody legend. I used an old soldering iron to melt the plastic then to seal back again. Thanks 🙏 can do my laundry now
That's awesome Lucas! 👍😃
Funny you remind me of me. I give everything a go.
If I may add when ever I’ve done an electronic repair for the sake of reliability I always substitute the capacitor for a higher temperature one, eg 105 degrees C. (Or better). I also replace all the electrolytic capacitors associated with that circuitry. (I wouldn’t have in this case either as too high a risk of damaging the board due to how effectively is glued on) I thank you for taking the time to share.
Thanks Gino! Yes, it's a good idea to upgrade the caps - even with their voltage rating. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊👍
That was awesome, I'm used to watching teardowns so it is actually refreshing to see something get a new lease of life! Well done, that was fiddly!!
Thanks ES! Yes, it was a little fiddly - especially getting the control panel back into place! Appreciate your comments :)
What an incredible fix!
Thank you Marcia - always satisfying to save something!
Fantastic video. This was extremely helpful and worked perfectly. For anyone about to embark on this, only thing I would recommend doing slightly differently is when using the hole saw, Drill a hole in a plank of wood first. Then line up the hole in the plank of wood to where you need the hole drilled on the plastic part and clamp the two together. This means you don't have to modify any "short" drill bits and can make sure that the hole saw is positioned perfectly and "bites" into the plastic. I've got my neighbour to thank for that bit of advice!
Thanks Jesse! Yep, a good tip with the hole saw - that would work well! 👍😊
Great fix. Internet forums are an awesome part of the web, so much information and its always nice to find what you want in the stuff you have kept that most call crap.
Forums are probably one of the greatest source of repair information out there! 👍👍
Absolute legend thank you so much! Saved us so much money and we were able to do it all ourselves!
That's just awesome! I'm so pleased you had a go and it worked out! Welcome to legend status yourself!! 😁👌
Helpful post. My Eziset 750 is different but I was able to find a burnt chip.
Excellent Red, nice work! 👍😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler thanks mate. A year ago I replaced the main bearings, seals, brake drum gearbox thingy, suspension rods. Not ready to give up on the old girl just yet. She's over 10 years old.
Such wonderful video! You are great man; I have an exactly same washing machine and got exactly same problems. Your video helps me fixing the troubles. Now my washing machine can work again, save hundreds dollars! Can’t thank you enough!
That's awesome! I'm so pleased to have helped! 😁😁
Thanks - they make it so you can't fix them (easily) but good folk like you beat them.
Thanks Martin! Yep, planned obsolescence perhaps?! They would certainly rather sell new machines than have people fix the old ones!
Love it, excellent :). Most thrown out things if they have failed at all is a 20 cent capacitor or power transistor
Yep and the worst thing is that companies just want to sell you a whole new machine! In the old days everything was repaired 😊
Yes! it works... I had the same issue, changed the capacitor!
Well done! 👏😃
Its Sunday night. Work tomorrow. Forgot to do the washing. All g - I'll wash & put it in the dryer then. Nope. Washer wasnt having a bar of it. I think a cap BLEW. My washer had turned itself off mid cycle. Wasnt paused and flashing. hrm. I assumed the power board had popped as they do (as in power points on a board) so tried a different power point and boy did I jump. It came from under the selector knob. (To be fair it prob wasnt that loud but it seemed like it in the enclosed laundry.) I have the model the next size up: 7.5Kg and yeah the refurbed boards are a bit pricey. Too late at night now to pull it apart and check but I'm hoping it WAS a cap. Even if it ends up being the board I replace at least I've repaired it. I live a 2hr drive from the closest shop so a new washer isnt an option anyway. Thanks for a great video, I subbed.
I saw another comment about things that get tossed over a cap or its just "easier" to replace the appliance. Well I recently repaired a nice big tv that only needed a cap and then got to keep the tv coz they'd bought another one. Score.
Best of luck for your fix when you have time! Thanks for watching, and the sub! 😃👍
Nicely done. The finished job on the underside looks like it was supposed to look like that, after the silicon is added.
Thanks David! 😊
Thanks for posting this. Helped me no end 😊
I think I have discovered why that’s a weak point in the board though. I had a nice brown circle on the plastic right above where that capacitor goes in the assembly. So I reckon it’s not getting a chance to dissipate any heat that it obtains. And it’s also right at the inlet to the water, so could be temperature fluctuations caused by that too.
Only issue I had was trying to line the buttons up at the end. Put it all back together, only to find the buttons didn’t work, so had to pull it all apart again 😂
Glad the video was helpful Jon. Yeah, it's possible all the waterproofing actually prevents the components from cooling during operation! This machine is still working perfectly two years later 👍😊
Hi, thank you so much for your video, we fixed our machine thanks to your awesome instructions. Much appreciated in this throw away world. Cheers!
That's awesome Linda! Thanks heaps for letting me know - it's great to hear all of the success stories 😀👍❤
Thanks great job . i think the problem with mine is the on off button its gone green and rusty .Mines a simson eziset 800 . cheers
Moisture will do that! Thanks and good luck with your fix! 😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler Hi I swamped the on off switch with auto senser cleaner . It worked perfectly . Great fun when it works eh? Thanks .😀
@@myversionofstuff Fun & very satisfying! Well done! 👍😊
Great job, I have the same problem, I might just cut the cap from the top instead.
Thanks Arto - good luck with your repair 👍😊
Thank you so much for your help , I was able to get my machine working again. I would suggest to not do any of the drilling.
I cut off the capacitor from on top of the board and left the capacitor legs exposed.
I then soldered the new capacitor to the legs of the old capacitor, I then covered the exposed soldering with lots of hot glue.
Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped! A good option with your repair method! 👍😊
I have the same problem with my board ...how did you remove the capacitor from the top?it looks like there's no space on the bottom to cut the pins ...did you wiggle the capacitor until it broke off? Or did you cut open the capacitor? ...does the capacitor hold any charge that I should be worried about ?
@@drymoper2234 Try not to wiggle the capacitor and break the leads, as you want the capacitor leads to solder to.
Cut the capacitor gently with side cutters. There is no charge on the capacitor. Use lots of hot glue to stabilize the new capacitor, Note the capacitor polarity.
You're the best mate thank you for this video you've saved us a few hundred dollars... im going to give it a crack this week..
Thanks Danny.. I've had some successful reports back from others, so let me know how you go! 😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler do you think a 10uf 450v will be ok? Its a bit bigger .... will the value of 450v still be ok?
@@738danny 450V is the rating as to what the capacitor can handle, so anything higher is good! You can go higher but not lower. The only consideration is it's physical size - but it should be fine 👍
@@TheUltimateRecycler yep it works thanks again you're a
champion...
@@738danny Awesome! And well done to you for having a go! 👏😊
Hi great tutorial video, I have a Simpson Eziset 5.5kg washing machine with a water leak from below, I have check all hoses, and can only assume its the tub seal from what I've read. Do you know how to remove the tub and replace the seal
Hi James, thanks for watching. Sorry, I'm not much help with the tub seal - that sounds a pretty major job! I'd be running the machine with the back off (and even up on blocks) so you can see exactly where the water is coming from. Sometimes a water leak can be as simple as the inlet flow into the tub splashing back and running down the outside of the tub. Good luck!
Fabulous, thanks. All seems to work BUT it now just won’t wash. Fills, rinse, spin cycles all work, no error messages. Did I pull a wire out somewhere when fixing it? Any suggestions welcome. So close!
Maybe a loose plug Paul - or perhaps the air line from the barrel may have been kinked? Hope you can sort it out 😊
Tip! using the hole saw cut a hole in a piece of ply or scrap wood then you can hold the ply and use that as a guide for the hole saw negating the need for the pilot drill 😁
Excellent tip Alan! Thanks mate 👍😊
I have a Simpson EZIset 7.5, which can't rotate the agitator. Every other thing works well. I changed the capacitor but still the same. If you have any recommendations, please do so.
This is a top loader, Simpson EZIset 7.5
Sorry I don't have any idea on what your troubles may be!
Hi! I just got an Panasonic RX-1740, and the radio works perfectly but whenever I try to play a cassette it only makes a humming noise, and I was wondering if you think its an easy thing to fix by myself. I saw your video of the RX-1490 and It exactly the same problem.
What problem can explain me?
Certainly well worth having a go Marleen - it does sound like a fixable problem! Glad you found the RX-1490 vid 👍😊
Yup, worked fine for me too. Absolute pain to work on though.
Well done Keith! Yeah, not designed with service in mind!
A really hot soldering iron would melt a circular hole in the board without damaging the circuit board. Capacitors usually swell up like that when they've had it I've had the same problem with them in other electronic equipment. Now it's time to dismantle my washer.
I think a soldering iron would make a bit of a smelly mess, but it may be worth a try. Good luck with your repair Tony! 👍😊
Merry Christmas Chris.
Merry Christmas back AR - and a happy new year!
good job done cheap
Thanks Dennis 👍
Amazing thank you Sir!!
Thanks RR 😊
What was the specs of the capacitor you replaced?
It was 10uF 400V 😊
Hi, I replaced my capacitor with a 450 after it was doing exactly what yours was. Now when I turn on all the lights are on and the time is flashing but I can't change any of the 4 buttons. Any ideas? Thanks for the great video!
Not sure on that one! Maybe the crook capacitor damaged another part? Or maybe the lid switch is causing issues..?
@@TheUltimateRecycler Thanks for getting back to me. I ended up buying a new board for $175 which fixed it so a lot cheaper than buying a new machine!
Same problem of mine too i change the capacitor 500v 10uf and still the same. So any idea whats the problem. ?
I wish you had filmed actually taking it apart because no matter what I do I cant get the top panel off and I have no idea how to do that
Sorry about that! I don't remember having any trouble with it - screws or clips I guess!
When drilling plastic with hole saws use reverse not forward.
Thanks GG, that's a great tip!! 👍👍
@@TheUltimateRecycler Your most welcome, I liked your video very informative and well presented keep sharing.
Hi there i just completed the exact same repair on the same machine ( replaced 10 uf cap ) but Still Won't Spin !!! do you have any other idea's ?? Thanx Heaps Danny
Sorry Danny, I can't offer much assistance there! Is the cap the same or higher voltage than the one you replaced? If lower, it may have blown straight away! Maybe the lid magnetic switch is faulty?
Hi, my problem is similar, in that the display and the buttons all work with lid open but as soon as the lid is closed, the display lights up only briefly when the knob is turned to different modes then goes out. My question is how do I disconnect the water level sensor tube at the bottom. do i just pull the end of the hose out? it looks pretty tight so not sure if i can get it back on. cheers
ok i figured out, there is a hose clip - i had to turn it to be able to grab as on the forward side it has a plastic guard and couldn't pinch with fingers. the same capacitor split at the top - the funny thing is, the washing machine was sitting unused for the last 3 years and it worked the last time it was in action...
@@russkisteel It seems a very common problem with these models! It might be worth putting a higher voltage rating capacitor in. If mine plays up again, that's what I'll be doing. Let me know how your repair goes.. 😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler Ironically enough, Jaycar only stocks 10μF 450V capacitors so I'm forced to upgrade it!!! I'll go buy it and put it together and report back. cheers.
@@russkisteel Excellent! 👍😊
@@TheUltimateRecycler I think the repair was a success - 450V capacitor is slightly taller (25mm vs 17mm) and wider (13mm vs 10mm diameter) but still fitted and worked ok. The height of the replacement capacitor could have been an issue as there is a water mixer right underneath the capacitor. I ran a tub clean cycle and a fast wash cycle with low water level with no drama, but slightly nervous about whether the water level tube is in tact as I think I might have stretched it a bit. I will have to run a heavy wash + full water level tomorrow to be sure.
Mine is the same but how do I start how to open the electric thing as not seen in the video pls. Help
Just a matter of undoing all the screws Ma cca..
Once you have bored the hole to access C6, it is not too difficult to remove the entire board from the plastic housing. Run a sharp blade around the edge of the board, and gently push via the hole. Release the board from the plastic hold-down clips, and use some care!
Thanks Jennifer, I didn't consider doing this!
Hi I managed to put a new capacitor in ( could only get a 450 volt so had to make do with that ) and i managed to get it working again, now I have a new problem… 🤦🏻♂️ it won’t spin now it seems to be draining fine but the clothes come out soaking and I’ve noticed it’s not doing a spin cycle, any help would be greatly appreciated!! Stuck and don’t want to fork out hundreds
A higher voltage rating is better, so 450v is great. Not sure why you have a spinning problem though?? Did all the other caps look ok?
@@TheUltimateRecycler everything else looked fine, what would you recommend having a look at?
@@lawsoofficial7117 I'm not sure on that. Maybe check that the air pressure line from the tub to the control panel just in case the machine isn't switching to spin because it thinks there's still a full tub of water? It's possible the air line can get kinked when reassembling. Just guessing here..
@@TheUltimateRecycler i kinked my air hose and it over filled all down my floor drain luckily :). Maybe reseat all the connectors on the main boards again....
The problem we had was that the lights on the control paneI were flashing, and the relay was clicking. The problem was C6. I have traced out a little bit of the power circuit. 240V in from the power connector, then via wire jumpers and then under the relay, cross over via the blue blob which seems to an inrush varistor, then via R1 to D1, then to C6. This is a half-wave rectifier supplying DC to C6. The circuit then seems to be a high frequency chopper driving T1, which supplies the electronics. If you carefully measure the 5V and 12V rails on one of the connectors, you will probably find that the rails are fluctuating. The two devices on the heat sink drive the motor, one for CW, the other for CCW. Hope this helps some one.
Interesting Jennifer! Thanks for the info! 😊👍
Geez brother what don’t you know .. I’m going to start asking what’s the secret of live soon 😂👊🏻.. jam up job my friend
Thanks mate - the secret of life will remain a secret I'm afraid, but wouldn't it make a great UA-cam title?! 🤣🤣
@@TheUltimateRecycler yes sir 👊🏻
You can tell it's a capacitor problem as the display is not lighting clearly so EZ
Yes, but remember many watching my channel don't even know what a capacitor is! 😊
hi I'm trying to repair my SWT5541 the 5.5kg of this model but its saying that the lid is still open but its not - I replaced the microswitch for the lid but its still coming up as the lid is open. do you have the schematics please!!!! pls help! ahhaha
also awesome vid!
Thanks! 😊 Sorry, I don't have any schematics - but google may help? Perhaps check the caps on the boards?
@@TheUltimateRecycler WOW thank you so much for the fast reply, ive been looking all day yesterday Im not sure what the caps are but ill keep trying, thank you so much!
@@mcwaith2733 Good luck!! I've had success before searching internet forums with model numbers for repair information.. 👍
My washing machine has stopped spinning
That sounds like it could be a water level switch issue.. or a solenoid.
You were lucky it was only the capacitor and was able to spot the fault, its hard to find a fault
when you can't see the damage, also next time try and use a heat gun to remove the silicone
it peels straight off, good job anyway
Thanks mate! Hopefully I won't need to do it again.. but if I do, I will try a heat gun 👍
Incidentally, this machine is still working perfectly and has done all our washing since this repair (six months now!) 😁
@@TheUltimateRecycler That's good to hear that it's still going, I've fix a few boards also
and yes every brand has it's common fault
Our watching not take out the Water after watching. How can I repair
Sounds like a problem with the pump!
I paid $550 for the same Washing machine. Mine is taking 25 minutes to fill.
That's odd - maybe it's a water pressure issue or you have a blocked filter in the hose?
@@TheUltimateRecycler - it’s not water pressure but maybe blocked. I may have to call in a wm mechanic.
Poor quality capacitor, if the only use better quality brands.. Like rubycon and others...
Absolutely Peter!! Cutting corners with cheap parts!