great vlog peter, love watching someone else struggle with a vag hahahaha.. would agree on subframe down being the easiest for both doing a dpf or turbo, and is essential when doing the double cannister dpf .. one thing tho, the injector bolts on type of injector are single use... and as usual tenner a piece and they always have loads in stock!!!!!!!
My favourite at the moment is the Autel MS909. But we also have Snap on Verus edge, Topdon & Mahle. Each on is good on differing manufacturers & models 😉👍
Very interesting Peter…and when you mentioned removing subframe ..my next question was how does he do it…and low and behold next scene you have it all explained…I’m facing a new project and I know it’s an engine out..and nope not a Mazda! 😱 You mentioned on screen to make sure turbo is lubed before installing….how did you go about doing that?
Any simple little syringe & squirt oil into the turbo oil feed or return. I also like if the car cranks a bit longer before firing up, just to lubricate everything at a lower speed 🤔🤔🤔
Hi sir.i been following your work for a while and loving it..honesty in your work is great.i have a question i have a mazda cx5 2,2 diesel 2014 it run fine but putting foot on brake and put in drive or reverse its tpm starts hunting but as it starts to drive nothing is wrong.any suggestions? Will appreciate 🙏
The exhaust camshaft being worn can cause similar issues, due to the exhaust gases not being able to exit the cylinders as fast as is needed. Or injector washers leaking causing a slight drop in compression at lower revs. Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞🤞
That’s a job & a half for a diyer like myself, I’ve got a 2011 1.6tdi Passat b7 outside my door 2 years !! & need to get it fixed, whizzing noise on idle (am thinking turbo) & it gets louder soon as it pulls away. It drives ok tho there’s some oil leak under the blinking dpf somewhere I just can’t find, it’s that bad it smoke like overheating & burning. Renew rocker cover gasket last year but didn’t fix it. Arghhh 😢
great vlog peter, love watching someone else struggle with a vag hahahaha.. would agree on subframe down being the easiest for both doing a dpf or turbo, and is essential when doing the double cannister dpf .. one thing tho, the injector bolts on type of injector are single use... and as usual tenner a piece and they always have loads in stock!!!!!!!
Good to know for the future Lar, I have seen a few of them to break lately. I’ll get a few for stock 👍👍👍
Very interesting to see. Great job Peter.
Good man Mick 🙏🙏
This will be good to sit and watch, as we're coming in to Rosslare with the ferry from France at the moment...😊👍
You could probably find better things than me to watch. But thank you very much and hopefully you enjoyed it 🙏🙏🙏
Legend Peter, true to your word. Great video, thanks for posting.
Hey Dan, I still don’t really know what caused the turbo to fail. But everything went back together as it was meant to, so it should be perfect 🤞🤞
What scanners do you use ,love the channel it shows what mechanics is really like
My favourite at the moment is the Autel MS909. But we also have Snap on Verus edge, Topdon & Mahle. Each on is good on differing manufacturers & models 😉👍
Very interesting Peter…and when you mentioned removing subframe ..my next question was how does he do it…and low and behold next scene you have it all explained…I’m facing a new project and I know it’s an engine out..and nope not a Mazda! 😱
You mentioned on screen to make sure turbo is lubed before installing….how did you go about doing that?
Any simple little syringe & squirt oil into the turbo oil feed or return. I also like if the car cranks a bit longer before firing up, just to lubricate everything at a lower speed 🤔🤔🤔
Hi sir.i been following your work for a while and loving it..honesty in your work is great.i have a question i have a mazda cx5 2,2 diesel 2014 it run fine but putting foot on brake and put in drive or reverse its tpm starts hunting but as it starts to drive nothing is wrong.any suggestions? Will appreciate 🙏
The exhaust camshaft being worn can cause similar issues, due to the exhaust gases not being able to exit the cylinders as fast as is needed. Or injector washers leaking causing a slight drop in compression at lower revs. Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thx alot sir
@@sohailrabani 🤞🤞🙏
That’s a job & a half for a diyer like myself, I’ve got a 2011 1.6tdi Passat b7 outside my door 2 years !! & need to get it fixed, whizzing noise on idle (am thinking turbo) & it gets louder soon as it pulls away. It drives ok tho there’s some oil leak under the blinking dpf somewhere I just can’t find, it’s that bad it smoke like overheating & burning. Renew rocker cover gasket last year but didn’t fix it. Arghhh 😢
If you were removing the turbo it gives a birds eye view of the back of the engine. Surely you’d see where it stems from then 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 that’s what I definitely don’t want to do, remove the turbo especially after watching your video 🤦♂️😂😂
@@game4alaughman 😂😂😂sorry 😬😬
Aldi/lidil/cheap/incorrect oil. 99.9% of failures are oil quality related
Agreed. Especially extended drain intervals.
Most people believe cheaper is better 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️👍
it is oil feed problem
I have verified oil feed pipes and connectors. Also normally oil starvation generally causes turbo bearing failure 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
might be egr sending carbon through it
I did look at egr data and it is opening and closing fine. Even though it will possibly fail soon enough, the go all the time 😬👍👍👍
So in short a handy wee job anyone could tackle😂😂😂 They just don’t make it easy for the mechanics nowadays!
@@johnfittis5764 that’s it in a nut shell John 😂😂😂
And what do you mean you have to think about it , shor the computer tells you what’s wrong 🤬🤬