I so glad you mentioned warming it up and cooling it down. I drive a 6.7 Cummins and everyone in the car with me is like, what are you waiting for? Are we gonna go. And then, why aren’t you shutting off the engine? I always tell them their is a lot of oil to heat up and cool down.
@@derrickstanley3804 If you've been driving aggressively and then you stop, sure. But otherwise, sitting and idling in your driveway isn't going to cool any of that down much, if at all. It's only going to cool the turbo. Like I said, the point of this isn't to cool your engine, it's to cool your turbo. That's literally what Ahmed is trying to tell you. A hot turbo will cook the oil directly touching it when you turn off the engine and stop the oil flow. A cooler turbo won't. This has nothing to do with the rest of your engine. The rest of your engine doesn't get hot enough to cook the oil when you shut it down or else non turbo cars would need a cool down period as well. They don't.
I’ve owned 4 turbo cars - a Ford, an Acura and two VWs. All have been 100% reliable with respect to the turbo. This video was spot on - and I would also add the importance of using synthetic oil. From heat to LSPI to consumption, synthetic is safest for your turbo.
@@doctorannoying The Ford and Acura every 6-7k miles. The VWs, every 10k, per the manual. Always using full synthetic meeting all manufacturer certifications.
@@orlandosagemaster for a direct-injection turbo engine, I'd go with 3.000 - 6.000 miles depending if majority is city or highway driving. Change every 6 to 12 months regardless of miles traveled. As they say in the manual "Change engine oil every 8.000 miles or 12 months (for example) whichever comes first."
I am getting a Turbo Car (Diesel) soon. Could you advise me how long it takes to warm it up and cool it down? Thank you. I normally get my cars serviced at 5,000 km.
@@Mav_F I live in Australia so our climate is pretty warm . My car is also in a garage overnight. I usually warm it up for about 1-2 minutes than I drive it easy for the first 10 minutes. I only let it cool down for a 2 minutes if I have driven it hard, otherwise I just shut it off.
I have a turbo engine... anywhere from 15k to 20k mile oil changes. Somehow made it to 750,000 miles... at 455,000 miles I thought the turbo had an issue, it didn't, but I pulled it and rebuilt it anyway, almost 300k on the same turbo but replaced bushings. Dunno what to say, maybe I'm just very very lucky?? No, I drive it long distances every week. It is a LLY Duramax Diesel, Garrett variable vane turbo. Sorry if this experience is not popular, but most oil problems are from time, not mileage.
From now on, I want to play this video to all my Volkswagen customers that come in to the dealer complaining about low oil level after 9000 miles. Thanks for a great video.
At my age I bought my last 2 Lexus's with NA V6's and drive them till I croak. Oil changes every 6 months or 4k miles and everything else that needs maintenance with OE parts. Oil is cheap and engines are not. Great informative video!
I change my own oil with Toyota filters & Mobil 1 only and never had a problem. No one has ever changed the oil on any car I've owned except me. Approaching a 100k miles on my RX and zero issues so far.@@WiekingderViking
The Getty Adventures mechanic is really good too. He is more trucks but does an excellent job of breaking down the design of engines and providing suggestions.
1987 Volvo 740 turbo. Purchased at 68k miles in 1991. Synthetic oil only at 7500 mile intervals. Always allowed warm up for both transmission and engine longevity. Driven off boost until oil temp is up a bit. Boost was adjusted via waste gate to almost 2x of stock but below 14 lb ignition safety cutoff. 60,000 mile trans fluid / filter changes. Original turbo, motor, trans no issues at 250,000 miles about 10 years of heavy commute use in terrible traffic. Oil consumption was about 1 qt every 10k miles at 250k ( down almost a quart at 7500 miles). When sold it was still basically mechanically fine (intercooler boost/vacuum leak at the plastic/aluminum seam ).
And most people will continue to have no idea, which will impact maintenance and then used car market and eventually reputation of car manufacturers. There will be no longer 20-year-old Toyota that is running like new.
I had a 2016 Honda Civic 1.5 turbo and drove it 140miles 5 days a week 85% highway.. 80% easy driving and 20% fast and fun.. Changed the oil every 5,000-7,000 miles or about every 3 months.. I put 185,000 miles and not one engine issue.. I traded it in at a Toyota dealer for $8,500 and a mechanic at Toyota bought it 2 days later..
Try that in a cold climate in a city and see how long it lasts. 😂 Class action lawsuit right now for 1.5L Turbos (look it up). I wouldn't touch them with a 10ft pole. Add to that Honda's famously bad paint jobs (another class action), I wouldn't buy a Honda period.
@@karlhungus545to properly set the piston rings in , some said make a long trip about 200-300 each way when the car is new , there will be no oil issue.
@CKPHH No, doesn't work. Do you think there'd be a lawsuit if the fix was so easy? Also, you shouldn't have to do that with a new vehicle. It's short trips in a cold climate that do it. It's a Honda issue. A coworker has a completely full crankcase, and Honda's fix is to 'get more frequent oil changes' 🤣 Thus, the class action lawsuit.
@@karlhungus545 of course its Honda fault, but driving short distance in cold weather the engine is not even warm up to its optimal temp to probably get the parts broken in. What I’m saying here is there’s a way to fix a problem you already know existed. Could be that the cooling in the Honda engine’s head is overbuilt that it cools the engine too much. Just could be… lol
@@CKPHH When you pay 6 times what a car is actually worth (these days), you expect it to actually 'work' without 'workarounds' 😂 When you live in western Canada in smaller cities, there are no 'long' trips' to work and back...that's one of the benefits. If they can't be driven in cold weather, they shouldn't be sold here, period. Also, why aren't the dealers upfront with the issue before they sell the car?! 🤔 Rhetorical question...because they're scum.
Non turbo people are just too lazy to keep the maintenance up. You don’t have to drive a turbo above 3k revs ever, you’ll have bottom end torque and engine longevity increases as redline is redline in both turbo & non turbo. Mileage is up on a turbo , premium also means better detergents as well. Leaving your subdivision or the first two miles on the road keep the revs at 2000 or so. Before shutting off the engine drive a few at 2k rpm’s a coupla miles b4 your destination. Pull up, put in park and idle for one minute every time. That single min idle will add up over the time of the engine. And often that sit will allow you to gather your phones empty water bottles.
People don't become mechanics because they don't like cars. I think dealers and shop owners treat them so poorly they can't afford to keep the job, or become burned out on being treated like crap.
The Car Care Nut has become a favorite of mine. I want to share my thoughts about the review as the content is exceptionally informative and truly worth watching, setting it apart from the majority on UA-cam. The reviewer exhibits profound knowledge, delivering information in a straightforward and no-nonsense manner. I highly value the quality of the content and extend my gratitude to The Car Care Nut for their dedicated efforts in publishing valuable reviews.
What I used to not know about modern turbo engines is that they don’t just allow a smaller engine to make more power, they make more torque at a low rpm’s. The few I have driven had great throttle response and move through traffic effortlessly, even if their all-out power is sometimes not so impressive. To have a torque peak at perhaps 1800 rpm’s is just what they do, and you don’t need to hammer them to move. I’ll use his recommendations on my new Tundra, see you back here in 5 years with my experience with it.
Your comments make sense, I have little/no experience driving a turbo engine. My buddy took me for a ride in his Subaru, and like you say, it had great mid range torque
@@johnnyblue4799 I drove a Chevrolet Equinox with the 1.5L turbo. (My assigned vehicle at work) it moved better at partial throttle than my 2018 Highlander with a V-6. Not full throttle of course, just normal slowing and accelerating through street traffic. I was very impressed, and surprised. I would have thought it would only move like that with lots of throttle and high rpm’s. I imagine those vehicles with turbocharged V-6 or V-8 engines are incredible.
The Lexus Dealership here in Edmonton kept telling me that my 2019 nx that I put 14,000 kms a year on, just needed 1 oil change a year! I've been doing it every 6 months and even another oil change if the winter is really cold and the car is running under more extreme conditions. SO I am glad your advice reinforces what I am doing! As, i felt that as soon as that oil gets really dark time for an oil change!
@@blueberry2846try not to go beyond a year without changing the oil though, i have a Mazda 3 2010 that just got to 100k miles last week, i barely drive it (around 2k miles a year) but i always change the oil at least once a year.
Back in the day we used to install turbo timers that would let the car idle for a while after the key was removed. Still have a car that uses one to this day.
I still own a 2004 1.8t jetta with 217000 miles. The problem i have are the plastic components become brittle. Oring designs are prone to leak at some point. So, i've improved it by using a gasket maker on those leak prone areas. Now my daughter uses it in college and taught her to always check the oil level and add when needed.
I own a 2016 1.4t jetta it's got 57k clicks on the odometer I haven't experienced any oil burning.....yet, but I think that mostly has to do with the turbo being fluid cooled which keeps the turbo from cooking the oil.
I am 78 years old and still love learning about new things. This channel is really a great source of learning modern day workings of car engines and car systems. I thoroughly enjoy listening to you on this channel because you explain everything in a plain format. Please keep up the good work. You never get too old to learn new things, even though I am past doing maintenance on my own car. 5 stars for you.
When I listen to him speak and I close my eyes. I swear I hear the physicist, Michio Kaku, talking about cars and how they run. This gentleman I trust!
Lifelong self taught (partly) DIY mechanic here. I just inherited a 2018 Buick Regal TourX (European Opel made) with GMs excellent 2.0 4 cylinder LTG Turbo engine. Never owned / driven a Turbo gas engine before this, but I'm impressed with it's performance & economy. I'll watch & take notes lol !
I live in Europe and drive a VW CC 2.0TDI 362.000km and 12 years old. So far absolutely no engine issue. Still original clutch I do maintenance myself every 10.000km with premium oil. I respect everything you say in the video and my car hopefully can reach 400.000 next year.
Diesels are a completely different animal. This video is about gasoline vehicles only. I don't know of a modern Diesel vehicle that does not use a Turbo, yet remain very reliable.
@@st3wi3D no engine is reliable without a good maintenance in my opinion. Also they way you use it makes the difference, gasoline or diesel is not important. Old reliable and simple diesel as it was in the 80/90s is no longer existing.
Great info! I’m from the golden age of boosted imports (early 00s), with boost controllers and blow-off valves- we accepted the high maintenance that goes along with them. I don’t think most people who buy these modern turbo cars have any idea what they’re getting themselves into at the dealership.
Excellent info. My wife’s car is 2022 Santa Fe 2.5 Turbo. From the get go I told her to let the car idle so the turbo can cool. I remember that from my younger years, as friends would cool their turbos down. Oil changes are important. We follow the manufacturers 8000km oil change. However I started to think I will lower that down and change it earlier. My wife doesn’t bag the car. She is gentle on it. I’m also gentle unless we pass someone on the highway - then I hear her complain lol
My 2013 3.5L EcoBoost now makes 650Hp with the CAI, the EGR bypass, BOV, 3” downpipes, large EFR TURBOS, huge Intercooler, remote oil coolers, and 5star tune. Love it. 170,000 miles and just breaking in . Lots of plugs and oil along the way to keep it happy.
If you're driving normally-not racing the engine-the auto start/stop feature is engineered to have short enough cycles between stopping and restarting that cooking the oil in the turbo should not be an issue.
Is that like the oil change intervals are engineered to save your car. Cars are engineered to self destruct buy following the manual to feed the manufactures bottom line.
Start/Stop is a fuel efficiency system disguised in sheep’s clothing. It makes the manufacturer look green while intentionally putting more wear and damage on their product for down stream revenue in repairs.
I bought a 2.5l twin turbo Soarer with 40k km, kept it 20 years and sold it with 140k kms and never had a turbo problem. The only problem I had was a radiator top tank leak and an a/c compressor failure. Best car I have or will ever own.
This is probably the best video from the CCNut. The many ways which a turbo can cause grief is clearly described with clear logic. I have been leaning towards letting my car go the recommended 10K miles between oil changes but this video makes a strong case for more frequent service stops. Thank you. P.S. I drive a 2017 BMW 340i with manual transmission.
When I had a turbo car (87 Grand National) I changed the oil every 3000 miles maximum. I also waited to turn the car off for a minute to be sure the turbo was not spinning high
Thx for the knowledge I have heard scotty Kilmer say it best, (paraphrase) you want more power buy car with bigger engine. No replacement for displacement 😎
Those of us with turbo charged diesel trucks have long appreciated the need to monitor exhaust gas temps pre turbo. Especially when custom tuning has been applied. This is a very nice video that explains those same hazards as applied to gasoline engines. Thank you!
another important note, its good not to floor your accelerator at low rpms with a turbo, as it causes the turbo to surge really hard, and puts a lot of stress on it. wait for your rpms to rise above 2k before accelerating hard and forcing high boost pressure.
I discovered this channel about 1 month ago, and I'm amazed at the quality of the videos. Simple and completely transparent language on various topics that are interesting. Good job
My wife has a 2019 Jeep Wrangler JL Sahara with the 2.0 Turbo 4 cylinder with the mild hybrid Etorque system. At 72K miles it has been great so far. It drives great and I am making sure to follow all of this advice. Thank you.
I absolutely love your videos. The cirrus sr-22 T has a 9 liter flat air cooled six cylinder engine with two 30lb turbo chargers on it. The earlier models required a 5 minute cooldown period to avoid cooking oil on the bearings in the turbos. Also it’s pretty consistent across all piston airplanes to require a 5-10 minute warmup period at a min and see oil temps get to operating levels before you can take off. These expensive continental turbo engines are notorious for failing early and I really think it’s because you have a lot of men flying them that aren’t car guys and they think they can treat these huge engines like they are a vacuum cleaner. On-off. Even the 60,000 hp jets I fly for work are the same way. It’s 5 minutes min time from cold to takeoff at a min and after you land it’s three minutes to shut them off otherwise you could thermally shock the engine. I think Toyota and Honda were smart in the 1980s and 1990s to release naturally aspirated low power engines that were somewhat impervious to these kinds of abuses and really think they are the best cars ever made for mass consumption.
Well said! Any ICE engine requires a warm-up period-Aluminum block or not! I would change oil in turbo vehicles every *3K* miles, just like I did in my diesel cars and trucks.
You know the most modern turbos also need that cool down after driven hard (even if WATER & Oil cooled) but car makers removed this "rule" so they can meet emmisions requirements because a car idling for a few mins is not good for those stats. This is evident when looking at older subarus 99/00 Model (on the drivers door is a sticker saying to let it idle 2 minutes after heavy driving. 2001 model Subarus did not have this sticker but the same engine same turbo, so people stopped letting them cool down and killed turbos early. Allowed to warm up and cool down properly a tiny TD04 on a 99 WRX should last 350-500,000KM or basically 2 Engine Lifespans
You’re comparing apples to oranges a bit. Aircraft piston engines operate in much different ranges than small automobile engines. Oil viscosity, RPM , throttle settings, temp variation to name just a few.
I have a 19 year old Audi with the 1.8L turbo. Great car, I love it. I watched this video out of curiosity and your advice is awesome. I've followed this regiment for the entire time (I bought it new) and it runs awesome and trouble free after all these years. Thank you for making this video to teach people how to take care of turbo engines.
Thank you for posting this excellent video, I remember my uncle reporting that his turbochargers had failed on his pickup truck, which he used for towing a 14,000 pound recreational trailer. It was right around the 100,000 mile mark. Fortunately he had an extended warranty and the turbochargers were replaced at no cost to him. I think he takes wonderful care of his vehicle -- he is still using it.
@@0HOON0nah. My turbo Accord with 160k miles has literally zero issues. If previous owners changed oil on time, zero issues. But same thing applies to N/A anyway. Number of owners doesn’t matter.
This is THE video to watch for people who recently bought or intend to buy a turbo charged engine car. You cover all important points with a realistic, pragmatic point of view. You aced it to me, my friend!
Lots of food for thought here. Just got my first turbo charged car and although I understood the basics of how they operate, this information will almost certainly help me keep it running reliably for years to come. Thanks!
You're channel, I feel, was one of my greatest finds on the Internet. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. Education is power for even us non-mechanics, in helping us make much more informed decisions and/or to simply serve as a reliable resource. Thank you!
The knowledge here makes sense. We're all car guys here, so naturally we are all on top of maintenance and monitoring. Therefore unless someone is slacking on their maintenance or is a tuner, dont pass up a good deal on a car just because it has a T in it. Think of it this way, this is going to be an everyday commuter car that already is pre-modded.
@@michaelbassett5105 I really like my turbo engine powered truck. Have lots of miles in it and still going strong now in other news I’ve seen other non-turbo engine power cars with engine issues that tells you something.
CCN is right about the maintenance on these turbo it’s crucial. Don’t get me wrong turbo is fun to drive when the turbo spools up. The instant power in electric is a blast also. NA are just boring. Looks like everything gonna go to hybrid or electric anyway. New Camry only gonna be hybrid.
Great video! Love your delivery. And I chuckle every time you plead with people not to do something, "please, please, please.". Thank you so much for your free videos! I learn so much every time. I am a gen 2 Sienna enthusiast but I watch all your videos. Thanks again.
Man, this is a great video! I have an explorer ST twin turbo. I never drive in sports mode or aggressive i just love having the performance. I run mobile one full synthetic. After watching this video it will get oil changes at 5000 miles!
I rented a bmw 3 series M, and wow, that thing is amazing. Turbo charged on that engine made me teleported through traffic in the blink of an eye. Are they fun to drive? Yes! Reliable? Probably not! That’s why I rented it!
i have a Stinger, and on my commute to work i jump on the interstate less than 5 minutes from starting the car. So while its tempting to romp on it as soon as im on the ramp,. i use a light foot and gradually increase speed. then when i am getting closer to work i take it easy and let it cool down as im pulling into the parking lot and sort of idle it along until i get to where i want to park.
Great explanation. I had a turbo failure at 11 years., they said it wasn't the miles, it was years. It wasn't a Toyota, but, I appreciate your comments....yes, more complicated system.
@@firingallcylinders2949 The primary reason we're seeing so many small turbocharged engines is because of corporate average fuel economy (CAFE) standards. Smaller engines use less fuel when they're under low boost. But from what I've seen, many manufacturers are programming for boost to come in early, which makes low end torque. That negates some of the benefit of the smaller engine. Since the vast majority of drivers never use the upper end of the rev range, they feel like their car is more powerful. CCN is 100% correct about turbocharged engines using more oil and creating more blowby past the piston rings. The oil in that blowby can gum up intake valves on direct injection engines and even cause sticking rings which will really increase the oil consumption. Turbos are also very hard on cooling systems. If your car has an electric coolant pump, expect it not to last as long as it would on a naturally aspirated engine of the same displacement.
A couple issues. Oil is pumped by a positive displacement pump and absolutely has no issue flowing through the turbo on warmup. If the pump can move the oil, which is ensured by the winter rating, you will get adequate oil pressure at the turbo immediately. Also, almost every competently designed modern turbo engine has an electric water pump and will run the pump and fan after shutdown. Additionally, thick oil warms up marginally faster than thin oil due to greater frictional losses. Agree with your advice overall just nitpicking 😊.
I was thinking the same thing. I have a BMW with twin turbos and an electric waterpump. Plus. BMW gives you an oil temp gage vs.a coolant gage. So you can see when the oil moves off the cold mark to start driving "spiritedly." One of my turbos gave out at 148k miles. Just put 2 new ones in. Lubrication is extremely important. Good tips here. I agree.
If we are nit picking them an engine displaces the same amount of air every 2 revolutions regardless of charging. The only difference is air density the throttle body & turbo can increase or decrease the oxygen content via density changes NOT change the volume in the engine. It’s a very important distinction that all good tuners and engineers understand.
Ahmed, great advice. Bought a new 22 Honda CR V 11/22 as of today has just under 9600 miles on it. Coming from a class 8 Diesel truck background, and we are now retired. So with all of the above in mind oil changes are done @ six month intervals. Oil and filter is way cheaper than engine. As always your insight and advice are spot on. Keep up the good work. Hope you , your channel and your shop will continue to prosper and grow.
100% agree about the oil change intervals. Part of the issue is Direct Injection and amount of fuel dilutes the oil. But I’ve never cared for 7500+ mile oil change intervals. Most cars with engine issues that I’ve worked on, the owner goes by the oil reminder or manufactures recommendations.
What is your recommendation for how often oil should be changed? Video says for turbo to change at 6 months regardless of how little you drove it. Who can change their oil every 6 months??!
@@myefone1536 well that’s only twice a year. Unless you drive some sort of exotic, most oil changes take 20min at most. Now if that car only sees 1k miles per year, I’d say you’re probably fine to change oil once a year.
@@cpftank09 Thanks for that input. I guess it is true that twice a year isn't that much even though I really don't drive a lot at all anymore. Since it sounds like you're well-versed, can I ask what your opinion is of Mazda CX-5's? As in, do you find a lot of issues of carbon buildup that I keep reading about? Probably people not taking good care of their cars right. It's a direct fuel inj.
Thanks for this. My brother had his turbo fail on his Ford Fusion around 100K. Knowing him, I can guarantee he barely kept up with the manual's suggestion of 10K oil changes let alone doing something more conservative like 5K/6M or for a turbo perhaps 3K/6M. I also would not have thought of letting the car idle after a long trip and cooling the turbo down, that makes sense when you explained it.
It's not the length of the trip, but how hard it's been driven. If you're coming off a hwy into a gas station, yes, let it idle 30 seconds, to cool down a little. If you've driven it all day long in town, no need... Here in Europe, where the engines are much smaller, many are with turbochargers. Nobody lets them cool. You also need to know your car. Some cars have pumps the maintain some coolant flow to cool the turbo, if it sees it necessary.
Back in the late 90's early 2000's they made aftermarket turbo timers so when you parked your car turned off the ignition and the engine would run for 5 minutes to allow the turbo to cool, I had on of those on a 95 Eclipse way back in The Fast and The Furious days
Some turbo cars like the VW Golf R I had had a oil pump that would run for a bit after the car is turned off to continue to cool the oil for the turbo.
Thanks for the tips! There's a lot of modern turbo engines with over 100k miles. "Free" horsepower/torque comes with responsibility. I drive a Mazda with a 2.5 turbo. Change full synthetic oil every 5,000 mi., keep my foot out of it until temp gauge goes up, let it idle for 30 seconds before shutting it off. Learned those habits way back in the day with a trouble free Buick Regal 3.8 turbo.
Pretty spot on. Well said. The only correction is the impeller and turbine rpm. 20,000 rpm is cruising 35 mph. Most waste gates open to bleed boost at around 120,000 rpm. My Cadillac hits max boost at 123,400 to 124,220 or so depending on atmospheric pressure and density.
Sage advice for owners of these cars that bought them new or with a full service history. Unfortunately, the vast majority of people who lease cars do virtually no maintenance unless they are forced to. I've looked at countless carfax reports on dealers sites listing these 3 year old lease returns and easily 80% do not even follow the manufacturers recommended oil change interval which is too high anyway. Lots of them will do no oil changes in 30k miles and the rest will do one oil change. Buyer beware!!
I've always changed my oil regularly at 10K kms with OEM standard oil AND always cooled down the engine before turning it off... and I've never modified my vehicles drive train away from the OEM standard. I can attest that the advice in this video is spot on. My current daily drive is a 1.6L CRDI that I've owned from new in 2008. Just last weekend I performed the 330,000km service. The car still runs perfectly as expected and averages less than 4.5L/100km (over 52mpg US) on every tank! I'm still on the original clutch and brake pads. I cannot endorse the advice in this video strongly enough. Take care of your car and you will be better off. The roads are NOT a racetrack.
@@ademiravdic Sure... I understand that most people can't perceive such a thing is possible. Usually because they drive their cars hard. I'm a professional driver... I drive B-Double trucks in Australia. I've had years of experience at stopping 65 ton vehicles using just gears and compression... with no brake pedal at all until the vehicle slows to about 5kph. Those driving habits work just as well in my own little 5sp manual car. What you believe or don't believe is totally up to you... you don't know what you don't know. I can assure you though, driving style is imperative to longevity in vehicles.
That’s why I sold my CRV with tiny overstressed motor turbocharged and bought a new Subaru with a 2.5 liter normally aspirated. Will run for a very long time with the maintenance I do and not abusing it
Cannot thank you enough for your advice on these turbos charged engines. I will adhere to what you stated as faithfully as I can. Your instruction and advice are top notch, and I cannot thank you enough for putting this information out there for us regular guys.
i did my anual service at a dealership just to have my service record with a dealer. they said "my turbo was leaking" i had a proper mechanic look at it and there was trace amounts at one of the lower boost pipes and he said after 7 yrs theres nothing wrong with small traces. glad to see you corroborate this
Good info. I also have great confidence in both Honda & Toyota engineers in providing the best examples of modern turbo engines. That means every aspect of a turbo engine's design is to work as a whole, not just some engine with a turbo hung on it. Treated well, I have every confidence that an owner can enjoy long engine life.
Awesome video! This helped me solidify what I already thought. Maintenance has never been more important. And don't drive your car hard. I found the idea of letting the engine cool down very helpful. I'm glad you explained that.
Drive it however you want. It's stupid that people think modern turbos wear this easily. Even the turbos on problematic turbo cars like the ecoboost arnt known to go. It's either the wetbelt or a coolant leak.
Excellent overview and tips. I’ve owned a turbo GTI and just purchased an Outback XT. Change the oil every 5,000 miles and don’t beat on it and you won’t have any problems.
Another superlative video, production and presentation. I bought my turbocharged 2008 SAAB 9-5 new in 2013 as a leftover after GM cut SAAB. Paid $17,500 for a $38,000 car. Your advice is spot-on. Since new, I have never stressed the turbo. In fact, 95% of the time I barely engage it. I now have 135,000 miles, change the oil, oil filter and air filter every 3,500 miles. This 9-5 has the lauded Mitsubishi TD04 turbocharger. It's not a dual-scroll. I've always warmed up the car and let it cool down. It's extremely rare for the TD04 to fail...they routinely last 200,000+ miles. At the time I was car shopping, the Honda Accord, Toyota Avalon and Toyota Camry were on my list. All were $30,000+. A pre-owned Lexus ES350 was $25,000. I park on the streets of Manhattan, where theft of parts is common. Garage parking is $500+ per month. The SAAB was a no-brainer. I would never buy a new turbocharged car. But for what I paid and the reliability and luxury received, I'd do this kind of deal over again. One thing I do hate...paying for premium fuel.
Mazda turbo vehicle manuals state that the owner can certainly use regular octane gasoline. Power out put will be less, but at least the option is there.
Our '24 CX-5 has a pretty mild turbo system...2.5 liter with a little over 220 hp (and great torque). The transmission keeps revs low unless you really insist otherwise. Feel like we're not stressing the turbo system much. Still great advice. An ounce of prevention and all that.
Awesome. The info is spot on. My turbo is now 19 years old and still running great at 24PSI. Taking care of the engine/turbo like a nut gives result overtime. Cheers.
I have been following your videos for quite some time and I do find these very educational especially for those who do not have technical background. This particular topic has been of great interest to me as I have been trying to create awareness in my two daughters, each of whom have bought Lexus NX350. My background has been 44 years as a Marine Engineer and have been exposed to very large turbochargers on massive Diesel Engines. There is a lot in common with the automotive turbochargers we have today. THANK YOU for such great contribution.
I loved my 87 dodge Daytona Shelby Z and my 98 eclipse GSX. They never burned oil but that was back in the day when 3,000 mile oil changes were standard. I think they took 10w30 and I always used synthetic. Todays 5000 mile oil changes feel like extended ones to me. I can't imagine going 10,000 miles without changing the oil on a turbocharged car with 0w 20 oil.
Nice! I had an '87 Sundance 2.2L Turbo I 5 spd. coupe and it went to 155K before I traded it with the original turbo before it started to burn some oil every 3K. It truly was a good car considering the punishment & abuse it had to take from the young angsty fella that I was. 😅
I cant believe how fast 174Hp with a 5 speed felt back in the day. I hammered mine too. My 225/50/15 tires felt wide back then and contributed to my cv joint problems. I had to put new axels in it 3 times in the 4 years I owned it. 17 year old me was an idiot behind the wheel for most of the 60K miles I put on it. My mechanic bought it from me with 135K. @@gwrider2146
Great info! I knew a lot, but I also learned a lot! One of our cars is a turbo, and I change the oil every 4,000 mi; in fact I do that for both cars. It's a bit higher maintenance costs, but I'm convinced it's one of the most important things to increase the longevity of the car.
As a Technician (Retired) for a Major rental Car Co. I have seen 1st. Hand how Turbocharged vehicles could show signs of wear Sooner than later, just as you advise attentive Car Maintenance I too mention this to those who are in the Market or own a vehicle of this Nature, Great Video well explained.
Exactly why my next vehicle will be an older Tundra or Tacoma. Naturally aspirated V-8 or V-6. We buy our vehicles, maintain them properly, and drive them for decades. Scotty Kilmer and AMD are wise men and I have no use for anything turbo. Great content, excellent information. May the LORD bless you and keep you.
Good points all. I would add, if you want your car to be faster, don't mod your engine; instead invest in high performance tires, better brakes & pads, and weight-reductions. And, if you want to FEEL like your going faster, get a racy-sounding cat-back exhaust. It won't actually add any real power, but you'll swear that it does--and it can save a little weight.
One of your best videos!! I had a 1980 Turbo Trans Am and it had a sticker under the hood that said you must change the oil every 3,000 miles or you will invalidate your engine warranty. Of course that was before synthetic oils for cars were on the market.
Mobil 1 synthetic oils were first released for sale in the USA in 1974. I remember seeing the tv ads for it at the time. It was released in Europe before the USA release. Synthetic greases were in use by the military during the 1960s.
My brand new 80 Pontiac Formula had a turbo on it for about 2 months before it spun a bearing. It got a 455 as a permanent replacement. I have recently changed my mind about turbo engines because I learned you just have to take a little more care of them and they have gotten really good.
Love my Mazda 6 with a 2.5 liter turbo engine. 320 foot pounds of torque at 2,500 rpm, way better than any V6 can manage for anywhere close to Mazda 6 money
Another superb video rammed with knowhow and advice. Ccn is one of the very best channels to view on cars and maintenance and integrity and honesty are the watchwords you can trust.
Absolutely love the 5 cylinder turbo (T5) in my 2014 Volvo V40 Cross Country. Have owned the car since new and just pushed through 45,000km. Regular Engine Oil (0W 30) & Filter changes every 5,000km or 6 months. 95 Octane only. Great car. No plans to ever sell.
Just bought a 2 ltr turbo falcon...2012 model, 125,000 km's on the clock. Goes well. Scratching around on youtube concerning the ifs, buts and maybes of turbo engines...this 20 minute gem was all I needed to know
Honda for its 1.5 Turbo in the 2023 and later Accord🚗 and CRV🚙 changed the fuel recommendation to 91+ premium. Probably would be a good idea to use 91+ for all Honda turbos no matter the year to avoid problems that are showing up.
I think Honda is a great company but I really hope Toyota does a much better job with their new turbos than Honda did with the 1.5T. I wonder if that engine is good now or if it still has oil dilution problems? The 1.5 T is the modern turbo engine that makes me worry most about turbocharging.
That's not a great sign. Shows that the engine is operating at a very thin tolerance I would think. I would much rather have a larger displacement and NA and give up a few MPG in exchange. It's a shame that you have that option less and less as time goes on and V6 is not even an option.. I bought a 2015 Camry recently because it had the 6 cylinder which is quite a nice and reliable engine which I don't worry about like I would if I had gotten the Honda 2.0 turbo or even the older Honda V6.
I just wish manufactures go the Honda route and make things easier to work on, especially the turbo. If I'm able to service my own turbo in my garage then I'd be much happier in adopting these turbocharged engines. Nothing lasts forever and easy of service makes for a much more pleasant ownership experience.
On the 1.5 Liter Honda Turbo engine the exhaust manifold is not separate from the cylinder head it it all molded 1 piece into the cylinder head and is also water jacketed so coolant flows through the exhaust manifold also.
2024 Accord 1.5L Turbo here; this little engine is great and gets 38mpg at 75mph, which is crazy good. I have faith in Honda and there are cars out there with 200K plus miles with 1.5L Turbo engines and no issues. A friend of mine has driven Accords since he graduated high school, and he is 50 years old now with a 1.5L Turbo in his current Accord. I changed my oil at 5K and will continue to do so. Oil changes are free at the dealer where I bought the car, yet I will never let a dealer do it here in Louisiana because all we have around are saggy pants fruit loops that have no idea how to work on a car.
I find your content very technically educational, and it helped me make informed decisions when discussing maintenance issues with my mechanics at service centers. Keep up the good work Sir. I am based in Malaysia.
Two of my last few cars were turbo-charged. Thankfully both were reliable. Might buy another, and this video definitely helped me understand turbos better.
I owns a 2019 Subaru Ascent (turbo), so far no issues. In the beginning I was using regular gas and I never added injector cleaners. I was getting around 19mpg. A mechanic recommended me to use premium gas and to add injectors cleaner every 3-4K. Ever since I changed to this my MPG went for the previous one to 22.5mpg on average. We never start running the car without warming it up and always let it cool down for couple of minutes after driving it. We also change the oil every 5K miles.
Warming it up and letting it cool down are actually pointless as modern engines don't warm up from idling. Also modern engines already have the cooling covered after you drive - even after you turn the engine off, the cooling system has an independent cicruit and will run even after the engine is turned off (at least that's what I observed on VW cars). Otherwise I commend you for taking such great care of your car. The frequent oil changes are what really makes a difference - turbo engines need high quality oil and they tend to dilute oil with fuel on short journeys (Since they all use direct injection and if the engine doesn't heat up to proper operating temperatures, the fuel won't properly mix with the air and after you turn the engine off, the fuel will stay in the cylinder and leak down to mix with the oil - which is the reason why you shouldn't drive short distances with turbo engines and if you do you should change oil more frequently). Also using injector cleaner is a good idea since carbonization is a common issue.
@@michalsvihla1403 I have read excellent mechanics that do recommend my statement. They state that turbines injects high flow of air (oxygen) to the combustion chamber. They state that warming up the engine for a time makes the air flow at higher temperatures therefore the turbine works with less effort and makes it last longer. Thanks for your comments on my car care habits. I am not a mechanic therefore I will not start a dilema on this. So far so good with my procedures. By the way this is my third turbo engine ( two previous WRX) they worked super fine all the time I had them.
Warming a car up especially during a cold winter morning can actually be detrimental to the engine. You're just allowing water to accumulate in the combustion chamber and eventually allow the water to seep through the piston rings and then contaminate the oil. In addition to repeated short trips with warm ups can be very detrimental. A better strategy is to start the engine up and after about a minute start driving the car like a civilized individual (no racing the engine until the engine is completely warmed up). This will warm up the engine faster because it's under light load preventing moisture build up. @@ericpizarro3084
I'm sorry but both of these comments are not 100%. First of all, the ECM will adjust the fuel trim so the air/fuel mixture will be optimal, regardless of the temperature of the engine. Second, hot air is the bane of turbo performance because hot air reduces density of the air/fuel charge. That's why you see car manufacturers put intercoolers to cool down the air after it gets pushed by the turbo. Regardless proper maintenance is always the best preventive measure. Keep doing the 3k oil changes and by all means let the turbo slow down, especially after a spirited drive. Good luck!
You’re a gifted mechanic who’s gifted with the ability to impart your knowledge. A pleasure to listen to and learn.
I agree, I trust his video's and opinion along with Scotty Kilmer too.
100% right, my list also includes Chris fix, and i do cars, lewis here from Mumbai India@@ivannadler1789
I hope one Day most of the mechanics became half reliable like this guy
Guy is the messiah of car engine advice. Preach it!
Very gifted
1. Change your oil
2. Change your oil
3. Change your oil
4. Change your oil
5. Change your oil
At the 4k interval
Also don't forget to change your oil as well.
Did anyone mention, change your oil? 😁
... and don't forget to fill the blinker fluid reservoir.
You forget to change your oil
You ever consider teaching a MasterClass. Your very articulate, pleasant voice to listen to and you approach a topic with such finesse!
Each video posted is a Master Class!
@@stevezodiac575Agreed!
It’s called Common sense. Maintaining a car is simple unless you are completely dumb and don’t know how to use tools.
1.4 million subscribers. i think this is his master class.
@@BETTALIFE101even when I know a lot about a topic I don’t talk to people the way you just did. Quite condescending and you’re not helping anyone.
I so glad you mentioned warming it up and cooling it down. I drive a 6.7 Cummins and everyone in the car with me is like, what are you waiting for? Are we gonna go. And then, why aren’t you shutting off the engine? I always tell them their is a lot of oil to heat up and cool down.
The cool down is to cool the turbo not the oil. That way it doesn't cook the oil.
@MikeKayK more importantly it's to cool down the crank, main bearings, pistons, and cylinders.
@@derrickstanley3804 If you've been driving aggressively and then you stop, sure. But otherwise, sitting and idling in your driveway isn't going to cool any of that down much, if at all. It's only going to cool the turbo. Like I said, the point of this isn't to cool your engine, it's to cool your turbo. That's literally what Ahmed is trying to tell you. A hot turbo will cook the oil directly touching it when you turn off the engine and stop the oil flow. A cooler turbo won't. This has nothing to do with the rest of your engine. The rest of your engine doesn't get hot enough to cook the oil when you shut it down or else non turbo cars would need a cool down period as well. They don't.
I’ve owned 4 turbo cars - a Ford, an Acura and two VWs. All have been 100% reliable with respect to the turbo. This video was spot on - and I would also add the importance of using synthetic oil. From heat to LSPI to consumption, synthetic is safest for your turbo.
How often would you change your full synthetic oil?
@@doctorannoying The Ford and Acura every 6-7k miles. The VWs, every 10k, per the manual. Always using full synthetic meeting all manufacturer certifications.
@@kcav1255what about if you don’t drive those miles by then? At least when should one do a oil change if you drive low miles a year?
@@orlandosagemaster for a direct-injection turbo engine, I'd go with 3.000 - 6.000 miles depending if majority is city or highway driving. Change every 6 to 12 months regardless of miles traveled. As they say in the manual "Change engine oil every 8.000 miles or 12 months (for example) whichever comes first."
@@orlandosagemasterannual oil changes at a minimum for low mileage vehicles
I owned many turbo cars. The most important thing is to do regular oil changes. I change the oil every 3000 miles or 5000km .
I am getting a Turbo Car (Diesel) soon. Could you advise me how long it takes to warm it up and cool it down? Thank you. I normally get my cars serviced at 5,000 km.
@@Mav_F I live in Australia so our climate is pretty warm . My car is also in a garage overnight. I usually warm it up for about 1-2 minutes than I drive it easy for the first 10 minutes. I only let it cool down for a 2 minutes if I have driven it hard, otherwise I just shut it off.
@@Slowrex123 I am in Australia too. SA. Okay, I never had a Turbo before. Thank you.
This is news to Me
I have a turbo engine... anywhere from 15k to 20k mile oil changes. Somehow made it to 750,000 miles... at 455,000 miles I thought the turbo had an issue, it didn't, but I pulled it and rebuilt it anyway, almost 300k on the same turbo but replaced bushings. Dunno what to say, maybe I'm just very very lucky?? No, I drive it long distances every week. It is a LLY Duramax Diesel, Garrett variable vane turbo. Sorry if this experience is not popular, but most oil problems are from time, not mileage.
From now on, I want to play this video to all my Volkswagen customers that come in to the dealer complaining about low oil level after 9000 miles. Thanks for a great video.
9,000 miles? lol
@@ThePilotGear Not that I wait nearly that long, but their recommendation is 10K miles.
Interesting opinion there buddy
The 10k oil intervals are IDIOTIC
At my age I bought my last 2 Lexus's with NA V6's and drive them till I croak. Oil changes every 6 months or 4k miles and everything else that needs maintenance with OE parts. Oil is cheap and engines are not. Great informative video!
Which Models??
Got 2 es350s 2013& 2018 .same sentiment as you 😊
RX & GS@@davidespinal4525
Have you actually looked and verified the quality of the oil and filter that THEY are using on your car?
I change my own oil with Toyota filters & Mobil 1 only and never had a problem. No one has ever changed the oil on any car I've owned except me. Approaching a 100k miles on my RX and zero issues so far.@@WiekingderViking
You are the only mechanic on UA-cam that really understands engines. You know old school and modern technology. Well done.
The Getty Adventures mechanic is really good too. He is more trucks but does an excellent job of breaking down the design of engines and providing suggestions.
scotty kilmer
1987 Volvo 740 turbo. Purchased at 68k miles in 1991. Synthetic oil only at 7500 mile intervals. Always allowed warm up for both transmission and engine longevity. Driven off boost until oil temp is up a bit.
Boost was adjusted via waste gate to almost 2x of stock but below 14 lb ignition safety cutoff.
60,000 mile trans fluid / filter changes.
Original turbo, motor, trans no issues at 250,000 miles about 10 years of heavy commute use in terrible traffic. Oil consumption was about 1 qt every 10k miles at 250k ( down almost a quart at 7500 miles).
When sold it was still basically mechanically fine (intercooler boost/vacuum leak at the plastic/aluminum seam ).
lol you are comparing diesel to a gas. They are not the same.
Glad to hear someone finally speaking out on these turbos, most people have no idea !
Yes!! I had no idea and this whole time I’m mistreating the turbo. Definitely taking more care for it.
Turbos are awesome but we must take proper care of them.
And most people will continue to have no idea, which will impact maintenance and then used car market and eventually reputation of car manufacturers. There will be no longer 20-year-old Toyota that is running like new.
@LGOFO I was just thinking this.
I had a 2016 Honda Civic 1.5 turbo and drove it 140miles 5 days a week 85% highway.. 80% easy driving and 20% fast and fun.. Changed the oil every 5,000-7,000 miles or about every 3 months.. I put 185,000 miles and not one engine issue.. I traded it in at a Toyota dealer for $8,500 and a mechanic at Toyota bought it 2 days later..
Try that in a cold climate in a city and see how long it lasts. 😂 Class action lawsuit right now for 1.5L Turbos (look it up). I wouldn't touch them with a 10ft pole. Add to that Honda's famously bad paint jobs (another class action), I wouldn't buy a Honda period.
@@karlhungus545to properly set the piston rings in , some said make a long trip about 200-300 each way when the car is new , there will be no oil issue.
@CKPHH No, doesn't work. Do you think there'd be a lawsuit if the fix was so easy? Also, you shouldn't have to do that with a new vehicle. It's short trips in a cold climate that do it. It's a Honda issue. A coworker has a completely full crankcase, and Honda's fix is to 'get more frequent oil changes' 🤣 Thus, the class action lawsuit.
@@karlhungus545 of course its Honda fault, but driving short distance in cold weather the engine is not even warm up to its optimal temp to probably get the parts broken in. What I’m saying here is there’s a way to fix a problem you already know existed. Could be that the cooling in the Honda engine’s head is overbuilt that it cools the engine too much. Just could be… lol
@@CKPHH When you pay 6 times what a car is actually worth (these days), you expect it to actually 'work' without 'workarounds' 😂 When you live in western Canada in smaller cities, there are no 'long' trips' to work and back...that's one of the benefits. If they can't be driven in cold weather, they shouldn't be sold here, period. Also, why aren't the dealers upfront with the issue before they sell the car?! 🤔 Rhetorical question...because they're scum.
Bought my first turbocharged vehicle in 2000 anf never looked back. Torque is addicting. Maintenance is key!
Can agree more, love the torque at low rpms, right where you spend most of your time.
Non turbo people are just too lazy to keep the maintenance up. You don’t have to drive a turbo above 3k revs ever, you’ll have bottom end torque and engine longevity increases as redline is redline in both turbo & non turbo. Mileage is up on a turbo , premium also means better detergents as well. Leaving your subdivision or the first two miles on the road keep the revs at 2000 or so. Before shutting off the engine drive a few at 2k rpm’s a coupla miles b4 your destination. Pull up, put in park and idle for one minute every time. That single min idle will add up over the time of the engine. And often that sit will allow you to gather your phones empty water bottles.
@@omegalamda3145TRUTH ✅
@@omegalamda3145 You woulda hated driving my STI.
Modern Turbos can work as low as 500rpm, I've seen a guy get down to 100rpm
I love this guy- we need more people like him working on cars.
❤
People don't become mechanics because they don't like cars. I think dealers and shop owners treat them so poorly they can't afford to keep the job, or become burned out on being treated like crap.
The Car Care Nut has become a favorite of mine. I want to share my thoughts about the review as the content is exceptionally informative and truly worth watching, setting it apart from the majority on UA-cam. The reviewer exhibits profound knowledge, delivering information in a straightforward and no-nonsense manner. I highly value the quality of the content and extend my gratitude to The Car Care Nut for their dedicated efforts in publishing valuable reviews.
What I used to not know about modern turbo engines is that they don’t just allow a smaller engine to make more power, they make more torque at a low rpm’s. The few I have driven had great throttle response and move through traffic effortlessly, even if their all-out power is sometimes not so impressive. To have a torque peak at perhaps 1800 rpm’s is just what they do, and you don’t need to hammer them to move. I’ll use his recommendations on my new Tundra, see you back here in 5 years with my experience with it.
Your comments make sense, I have little/no experience driving a turbo engine. My buddy took me for a ride in his Subaru, and like you say, it had great mid range torque
What smaller engine cars are you referring to? What is a smaller, engine?
Mostly from newer technology but really because the turbos are smaller and more efficient.
@@johnnyblue4799 I drove a Chevrolet Equinox with the 1.5L turbo. (My assigned vehicle at work) it moved better at partial throttle than my 2018 Highlander with a V-6. Not full throttle of course, just normal slowing and accelerating through street traffic. I was very impressed, and surprised. I would have thought it would only move like that with lots of throttle and high rpm’s. I imagine those vehicles with turbocharged V-6 or V-8 engines are incredible.
1.3 Ford, 1.5 Honda, 1.6 Corolla, 1.6 Hyundai and Kia, they are all pretty small but pump out decent power. Just enough to move them well.
The Lexus Dealership here in Edmonton kept telling me that my 2019 nx that I put 14,000 kms a year on, just needed 1 oil change a year! I've been doing it every 6 months and even another oil change if the winter is really cold and the car is running under more extreme conditions. SO I am glad your advice reinforces what I am doing! As, i felt that as soon as that oil gets really dark time for an oil change!
Agree 100%. 16,000km/1yr intervals are insanity.
Oil being dark is not an indication of time to change.
Milage is the key
@@blueberry2846try not to go beyond a year without changing the oil though, i have a Mazda 3 2010 that just got to 100k miles last week, i barely drive it (around 2k miles a year) but i always change the oil at least once a year.
Back in the day we used to install turbo timers that would let the car idle for a while after the key was removed. Still have a car that uses one to this day.
I still own a 2004 1.8t jetta with 217000 miles. The problem i have are the plastic components become brittle. Oring designs are prone to leak at some point. So, i've improved it by using a gasket maker on those leak prone areas. Now my daughter uses it in college and taught her to always check the oil level and add when needed.
I own a 2016 1.4t jetta it's got 57k clicks on the odometer I haven't experienced any oil burning.....yet, but I think that mostly has to do with the turbo being fluid cooled which keeps the turbo from cooking the oil.
All those vw's and Audi's have the problem with the plastic getting brittle that why those cars suck
@@DylanL69 Same with BMW. Rubbish.
@@BubblesTheCat1 volkswagons are worse
Sorry you have one of those. Theyre quite ugly
I bought my first tubo car about a year ago. It has been consumig oil a bit. This video clarified things a bit. Thanks
I am 78 years old and still love learning about new things. This channel is really a great source of learning modern day workings of car engines and car systems. I thoroughly enjoy listening to you on this channel because you explain everything in a plain format. Please keep up the good work. You never get too old to learn new things, even though I am past doing maintenance on my own car. 5 stars for you.
When I listen to him speak and I close my eyes. I swear I hear the physicist, Michio Kaku, talking about cars and how they run. This gentleman I trust!
Now I can't unhear it. Lol
Holy hell 😂😂😂😂😂😂 👍🏽
Lifelong self taught (partly) DIY mechanic here.
I just inherited a 2018 Buick Regal TourX (European Opel made) with GMs excellent 2.0 4 cylinder LTG Turbo engine.
Never owned / driven a Turbo gas engine before this, but I'm impressed with it's performance & economy.
I'll watch & take notes lol !
I live in Europe and drive a VW CC 2.0TDI
362.000km and 12 years old. So far absolutely no engine issue. Still original clutch
I do maintenance myself every 10.000km with premium oil.
I respect everything you say in the video and my car hopefully can reach 400.000 next year.
Diesels are a completely different animal. This video is about gasoline vehicles only. I don't know of a modern Diesel vehicle that does not use a Turbo, yet remain very reliable.
@@st3wi3D no engine is reliable without a good maintenance in my opinion.
Also they way you use it makes the difference, gasoline or diesel is not important. Old reliable and simple diesel as it was in the 80/90s is no longer existing.
Great info! I’m from the golden age of boosted imports (early 00s), with boost controllers and blow-off valves- we accepted the high maintenance that goes along with them. I don’t think most people who buy these modern turbo cars have any idea what they’re getting themselves into at the dealership.
Yep, that is why putting the, in trucks is new use cases. Tundras not doing well and neither are ecoboosts.
Used Hyundai and Kia prices prove the majority of turbo buyers have no idea what maintenance is. Lol
Love boosted engines, lots of fun!!
I love boosted engines, but they do have more maintenance...
I had no idea and I almost bought an Integra. They only come in Turbo.
I found your UA-cam channels about 3 months ago and am working my way through your videos. You are OUTSTANDING! Thank you.
Excellent info. My wife’s car is 2022 Santa Fe 2.5 Turbo. From the get go I told her to let the car idle so the turbo can cool. I remember that from my younger years, as friends would cool their turbos down. Oil changes are important. We follow the manufacturers 8000km oil change. However I started to think I will lower that down and change it earlier. My wife doesn’t bag the car. She is gentle on it. I’m also gentle unless we pass someone on the highway - then I hear her complain lol
My 2013 3.5L EcoBoost now makes 650Hp with the CAI, the EGR bypass, BOV, 3” downpipes, large EFR TURBOS, huge Intercooler, remote oil coolers, and 5star tune. Love it. 170,000 miles and just breaking in . Lots of plugs and oil along the way to keep it happy.
What kind of oil do you use in it?
One big reason I bought a V6 Camry is that it makes power the old fashion way. Cylinders, Displacement, and a transmission that isn't a CVT.
Yes! My sentiments exactly! Have and much prefer an engine large enough to loaf! No turbo!!
Same reason I drive a 68 Camaro.
cvts will last longer if serviced properly as well.
Our 2010 V6 Rav is amazing with the power and performance. Timing chain, no CVT. 200k and everything works and feels like a new car..lol
@@kevinmccune9324 Still suck to drive tho
So if letting it cool down is important what about the stupid auto stop and start feature?
Turn if off if you can....
And as long as.. if you not racing or while towing down the 1/⁴ mile dirt track in a 2.4 turbo 😮 😅😂
If you're driving normally-not racing the engine-the auto start/stop feature is engineered to have short enough cycles between stopping and restarting that cooking the oil in the turbo should not be an issue.
Is that like the oil change intervals are engineered to save your car. Cars are engineered to self destruct buy following the manual to feed the manufactures bottom line.
Start/Stop is a fuel efficiency system disguised in sheep’s clothing. It makes the manufacturer look green while intentionally putting more wear and damage on their product for down stream revenue in repairs.
Your presentation is outstanding. A great job of explaining the "turbo" engines to those of us who do not really know about them.
I bought a 2.5l twin turbo Soarer with 40k km, kept it 20 years and sold it with 140k kms and never had a turbo problem. The only problem I had was a radiator top tank leak and an a/c compressor failure. Best car I have or will ever own.
This is probably the best video from the CCNut. The many ways which a turbo can cause grief is clearly described with clear logic. I have been leaning towards letting my car go the recommended 10K miles between oil changes but this video makes a strong case for more frequent service stops. Thank you. P.S. I drive a 2017 BMW 340i with manual transmission.
When I had a turbo car (87 Grand National) I changed the oil every 3000 miles maximum. I also waited to turn the car off for a minute to be sure the turbo was not spinning high
I had 1995 twin Turbo Nissan300zx. Never had an issue even when I sold it with 180k mileage. One of the best sports cars ever made.
Mazda turbos from 2016 onwards dont consume a drop of oil......but Mazda also uses a few tricks to keep that turbo as cool as possible.
I had a speed 3, everything this man said about how to take care of a turbo car is spot on especially the shorter, more frequent oil changes.
What happened to it?
@@tyronenur2373 Sold it, nothing wrong with it - just wanted a change. I still regret selling it.
Thx for the knowledge
I have heard scotty Kilmer say it best, (paraphrase) you want more power buy car with bigger engine.
No replacement for displacement 😎
Tell the "save the planet" types that. They have forced car manufacturers to use smaller engines, so the only way to get more power is turbos.
I've just bought my brand new turbo engine car and found your video quite informative. Pleasure to listen to, thank you sir 🙏
Those of us with turbo charged diesel trucks have long appreciated the need to monitor exhaust gas temps pre turbo. Especially when custom tuning has been applied. This is a very nice video that explains those same hazards as applied to gasoline engines. Thank you!
another important note, its good not to floor your accelerator at low rpms with a turbo, as it causes the turbo to surge really hard, and puts a lot of stress on it. wait for your rpms to rise above 2k before accelerating hard and forcing high boost pressure.
and lspi risk
Min 3500 for WOT is my advice.
I discovered this channel about 1 month ago, and I'm amazed at the quality of the videos. Simple and completely transparent language on various topics that are interesting. Good job
My wife has a 2019 Jeep Wrangler JL Sahara with the 2.0 Turbo 4 cylinder with the mild hybrid Etorque system. At 72K miles it has been great so far. It drives great and I am making sure to follow all of this advice. Thank you.
I absolutely love your videos. The cirrus sr-22 T has a 9 liter flat air cooled six cylinder engine with two 30lb turbo chargers on it. The earlier models required a 5 minute cooldown period to avoid cooking oil on the bearings in the turbos. Also it’s pretty consistent across all piston airplanes to require a 5-10 minute warmup period at a min and see oil temps get to operating levels before you can take off. These expensive continental turbo engines are notorious for failing early and I really think it’s because you have a lot of men flying them that aren’t car guys and they think they can treat these huge engines like they are a vacuum cleaner. On-off. Even the 60,000 hp jets I fly for work are the same way. It’s 5 minutes min time from cold to takeoff at a min and after you land it’s three minutes to shut them off otherwise you could thermally shock the engine. I think Toyota and Honda were smart in the 1980s and 1990s to release naturally aspirated low power engines that were somewhat impervious to these kinds of abuses and really think they are the best cars ever made for mass consumption.
awesome post, i'm also an aviation guy, what do you fly?
Well said! Any ICE engine requires a warm-up period-Aluminum block or not!
I would change oil in turbo vehicles every *3K* miles, just like I did in my diesel cars and trucks.
You know the most modern turbos also need that cool down after driven hard (even if WATER & Oil cooled) but car makers removed this "rule" so they can meet emmisions requirements because a car idling for a few mins is not good for those stats.
This is evident when looking at older subarus 99/00 Model (on the drivers door is a sticker saying to let it idle 2 minutes after heavy driving.
2001 model Subarus did not have this sticker but the same engine same turbo, so people stopped letting them cool down and killed turbos early.
Allowed to warm up and cool down properly a tiny TD04 on a 99 WRX should last 350-500,000KM or basically 2 Engine Lifespans
You’re comparing apples to oranges a bit. Aircraft piston engines operate in much different ranges than small automobile engines. Oil viscosity, RPM , throttle settings, temp variation to name just a few.
from a 787 Captain. Apples and oranges:)
I have a 19 year old Audi with the 1.8L turbo. Great car, I love it. I watched this video out of curiosity and your advice is awesome. I've followed this regiment for the entire time (I bought it new) and it runs awesome and trouble free after all these years.
Thank you for making this video to teach people how to take care of turbo engines.
Good to hear, because Audi gets a bad wrap due to some customers that don't maintain them correctly.
Thank you for posting this excellent video, I remember my uncle reporting that his turbochargers had failed on his pickup truck, which he used for towing a 14,000 pound recreational trailer. It was right around the 100,000 mile mark. Fortunately he had an extended warranty and the turbochargers were replaced at no cost to him. I think he takes wonderful care of his vehicle -- he is still using it.
Did he have combo turbos or are you talking about the Ford Ecoboost?
I have had 3 cars with turbo engines and never had a problem. Ahmed's advice is spot on.
You're unlikely have problems with a new car. It's the second and third owners we're concerned about.
@@0HOON0nah. My turbo Accord with 160k miles has literally zero issues.
If previous owners changed oil on time, zero issues. But same thing applies to N/A anyway. Number of owners doesn’t matter.
This is THE video to watch for people who recently bought or intend to buy a turbo charged engine car. You cover all important points with a realistic, pragmatic point of view. You aced it to me, my friend!
Lots of food for thought here. Just got my first turbo charged car and although I understood the basics of how they operate, this information will almost certainly help me keep it running reliably for years to come. Thanks!
You're channel, I feel, was one of my greatest finds on the Internet. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. Education is power for even us non-mechanics, in helping us make much more informed decisions and/or to simply serve as a reliable resource. Thank you!
The knowledge here makes sense. We're all car guys here, so naturally we are all on top of maintenance and monitoring. Therefore unless someone is slacking on their maintenance or is a tuner, dont pass up a good deal on a car just because it has a T in it.
Think of it this way, this is going to be an everyday commuter car that already is pre-modded.
I have owned 3 turbo vehicles and havent experienced any adverse engine issues. Just take care of your vehicle with regular maintenance.
The fact that “have owned them” is pretty telling.
lol@@michaelbassett5105
@@michaelbassett5105 I really like my turbo engine powered truck. Have lots of miles in it and still going strong now in other news I’ve seen other non-turbo engine power cars with engine issues that tells you something.
CCN is right about the maintenance on these turbo it’s crucial. Don’t get me wrong turbo is fun to drive when the turbo spools up. The instant power in electric is a blast also. NA are just boring. Looks like everything gonna go to hybrid or electric anyway. New Camry only gonna be hybrid.
This means nothing if you don't state what the years, the milage and how long you owned these cars for.
Great video! Love your delivery. And I chuckle every time you plead with people not to do something, "please, please, please.". Thank you so much for your free videos! I learn so much every time. I am a gen 2 Sienna enthusiast but I watch all your videos. Thanks again.
Man, this is a great video! I have an explorer ST twin turbo. I never drive in sports mode or aggressive i just love having the performance. I run mobile one full synthetic. After watching this video it will get oil changes at 5000 miles!
I rented a bmw 3 series M, and wow, that thing is amazing. Turbo charged on that engine made me teleported through traffic in the blink of an eye. Are they fun to drive? Yes! Reliable? Probably not! That’s why I rented it!
depends on the year, the newer versios with the s58 engine are reliable
i have a Stinger, and on my commute to work i jump on the interstate less than 5 minutes from starting the car. So while its tempting to romp on it as soon as im on the ramp,. i use a light foot and gradually increase speed. then when i am getting closer to work i take it easy and let it cool down as im pulling into the parking lot and sort of idle it along until i get to where i want to park.
Great explanation. I had a turbo failure at 11 years., they said it wasn't the miles, it was years. It wasn't a Toyota, but, I appreciate your comments....yes, more complicated system.
Make more such maintenance videos. We are learning a lot about car care. Most manufacturers don't mention these things in details even in manuals.
Sometimes I wonder if that's for a reason. Cars are designed anymore to use and kill and then replace. Planned obsolescence is real.
@@firingallcylinders2949 The primary reason we're seeing so many small turbocharged engines is because of corporate average fuel economy (CAFE) standards. Smaller engines use less fuel when they're under low boost. But from what I've seen, many manufacturers are programming for boost to come in early, which makes low end torque. That negates some of the benefit of the smaller engine. Since the vast majority of drivers never use the upper end of the rev range, they feel like their car is more powerful. CCN is 100% correct about turbocharged engines using more oil and creating more blowby past the piston rings. The oil in that blowby can gum up intake valves on direct injection engines and even cause sticking rings which will really increase the oil consumption. Turbos are also very hard on cooling systems. If your car has an electric coolant pump, expect it not to last as long as it would on a naturally aspirated engine of the same displacement.
They want it to break.
most manufactures don’t care because they want you to come back for more visits I guess like maintenance and repair issues.
@@dougrobinson8602 glad I got my naturally aspirated GS350 V6! I will be considering the V8 LC500 in the future as a second car!
A couple issues. Oil is pumped by a positive displacement pump and absolutely has no issue flowing through the turbo on warmup. If the pump can move the oil, which is ensured by the winter rating, you will get adequate oil pressure at the turbo immediately. Also, almost every competently designed modern turbo engine has an electric water pump and will run the pump and fan after shutdown. Additionally, thick oil warms up marginally faster than thin oil due to greater frictional losses. Agree with your advice overall just nitpicking 😊.
I was thinking the same thing. I have a BMW with twin turbos and an electric waterpump. Plus. BMW gives you an oil temp gage vs.a coolant gage. So you can see when the oil moves off the cold mark to start driving "spiritedly." One of my turbos gave out at 148k miles. Just put 2 new ones in. Lubrication is extremely important. Good tips here. I agree.
I did experience this with my GR Supra after turning off the engine.
If we are nit picking them an engine displaces the same amount of air every 2 revolutions regardless of charging.
The only difference is air density the throttle body & turbo can increase or decrease the oxygen content via density changes NOT change the volume in the engine.
It’s a very important distinction that all good tuners and engineers understand.
Ahmed, great advice. Bought a new 22 Honda CR V 11/22 as of today has just under 9600 miles on it. Coming from a class 8 Diesel truck background, and we are now retired. So with all of the above in mind oil changes are done @ six month intervals. Oil and filter is way cheaper than engine. As always your insight and advice are spot on. Keep up the good work. Hope you , your channel and your shop will continue to prosper and grow.
100% agree about the oil change intervals. Part of the issue is Direct Injection and amount of fuel dilutes the oil. But I’ve never cared for 7500+ mile oil change intervals. Most cars with engine issues that I’ve worked on, the owner goes by the oil reminder or manufactures recommendations.
Of course...it brings back the business.
What is your recommendation for how often oil should be changed? Video says for turbo to change at 6 months regardless of how little you drove it. Who can change their oil every 6 months??!
@@myefone1536 well that’s only twice a year. Unless you drive some sort of exotic, most oil changes take 20min at most. Now if that car only sees 1k miles per year, I’d say you’re probably fine to change oil once a year.
@@cpftank09 Thanks for that input. I guess it is true that twice a year isn't that much even though I really don't drive a lot at all anymore. Since it sounds like you're well-versed, can I ask what your opinion is of Mazda CX-5's? As in, do you find a lot of issues of carbon buildup that I keep reading about? Probably people not taking good care of their cars right. It's a direct fuel inj.
@@myefone1536 Once a year is fine if you're within the mileage. Oil doesn't break down like it used to.
Thanks for this. My brother had his turbo fail on his Ford Fusion around 100K. Knowing him, I can guarantee he barely kept up with the manual's suggestion of 10K oil changes let alone doing something more conservative like 5K/6M or for a turbo perhaps 3K/6M. I also would not have thought of letting the car idle after a long trip and cooling the turbo down, that makes sense when you explained it.
It's not the length of the trip, but how hard it's been driven. If you're coming off a hwy into a gas station, yes, let it idle 30 seconds, to cool down a little. If you've driven it all day long in town, no need... Here in Europe, where the engines are much smaller, many are with turbochargers. Nobody lets them cool. You also need to know your car. Some cars have pumps the maintain some coolant flow to cool the turbo, if it sees it necessary.
Back in the late 90's early 2000's they made aftermarket turbo timers so when you parked your car turned off the ignition and the engine would run for 5 minutes to allow the turbo to cool, I had on of those on a 95 Eclipse way back in The Fast and The Furious days
@@carlosnavarro921 wow ngl that's pretty dope
@@carlosnavarro921 i remember those, i even remember a brand 'Turbo Timer'
Some turbo cars like the VW Golf R I had had a oil pump that would run for a bit after the car is turned off to continue to cool the oil for the turbo.
Thanks for the tips! There's a lot of modern turbo engines with over 100k miles. "Free" horsepower/torque comes with responsibility. I drive a Mazda with a 2.5 turbo. Change full synthetic oil every 5,000 mi., keep my foot out of it until temp gauge goes up, let it idle for 30 seconds before shutting it off. Learned those habits way back in the day with a trouble free Buick Regal 3.8 turbo.
You don't need to let it idle on modern turbo cars. Also the rule for driving cold is the same for any other car. Just don't rev high over 3-3.5k
Pretty spot on. Well said. The only correction is the impeller and turbine rpm. 20,000 rpm is cruising 35 mph. Most waste gates open to bleed boost at around 120,000 rpm. My Cadillac hits max boost at 123,400 to 124,220 or so depending on atmospheric pressure and density.
Sage advice for owners of these cars that bought them new or with a full service history. Unfortunately, the vast majority of people who lease cars do virtually no maintenance unless they are forced to. I've looked at countless carfax reports on dealers sites listing these 3 year old lease returns and easily 80% do not even follow the manufacturers recommended oil change interval which is too high anyway. Lots of them will do no oil changes in 30k miles and the rest will do one oil change. Buyer beware!!
I've always changed my oil regularly at 10K kms with OEM standard oil AND always cooled down the engine before turning it off... and I've never modified my vehicles drive train away from the OEM standard. I can attest that the advice in this video is spot on. My current daily drive is a 1.6L CRDI that I've owned from new in 2008. Just last weekend I performed the 330,000km service. The car still runs perfectly as expected and averages less than 4.5L/100km (over 52mpg US) on every tank! I'm still on the original clutch and brake pads. I cannot endorse the advice in this video strongly enough. Take care of your car and you will be better off. The roads are NOT a racetrack.
original brake pads are hard to believe, sry
@@ademiravdic Sure... I understand that most people can't perceive such a thing is possible. Usually because they drive their cars hard. I'm a professional driver... I drive B-Double trucks in Australia. I've had years of experience at stopping 65 ton vehicles using just gears and compression... with no brake pedal at all until the vehicle slows to about 5kph. Those driving habits work just as well in my own little 5sp manual car. What you believe or don't believe is totally up to you... you don't know what you don't know. I can assure you though, driving style is imperative to longevity in vehicles.
330000km without brake pads .... Sorry I'm not buying that .....
@@omarmunroe1420 Actually.... it's 341000 now. 👍
That’s why I sold my CRV with tiny overstressed motor turbocharged and bought a new Subaru with a 2.5 liter normally aspirated. Will run for a very long time with the maintenance I do and not abusing it
Cannot thank you enough for your advice on these turbos charged engines. I will adhere to what you stated as faithfully as I can. Your instruction and advice are top notch, and I cannot thank you enough for putting this information out there for us regular guys.
i did my anual service at a dealership just to have my service record with a dealer. they said "my turbo was leaking" i had a proper mechanic look at it and there was trace amounts at one of the lower boost pipes and he said after 7 yrs theres nothing wrong with small traces. glad to see you corroborate this
Good info. I also have great confidence in both Honda & Toyota engineers in providing the best examples of modern turbo engines. That means every aspect of a turbo engine's design is to work as a whole, not just some engine with a turbo hung on it. Treated well, I have every confidence that an owner can enjoy long engine life.
Awesome video! This helped me solidify what I already thought. Maintenance has never been more important. And don't drive your car hard. I found the idea of letting the engine cool down very helpful. I'm glad you explained that.
“Don’t drive your car hard” Hard to follow that advice when you got a beast V6 turbo
Drive it however you want. It's stupid that people think modern turbos wear this easily. Even the turbos on problematic turbo cars like the ecoboost arnt known to go. It's either the wetbelt or a coolant leak.
Excellent overview and tips. I’ve owned a turbo GTI and just purchased an Outback XT. Change the oil every 5,000 miles and don’t beat on it and you won’t have any problems.
Another superlative video, production and presentation. I bought my turbocharged 2008 SAAB 9-5 new in 2013 as a leftover after GM cut SAAB. Paid $17,500 for a $38,000 car. Your advice is spot-on.
Since new, I have never stressed the turbo. In fact, 95% of the time I barely engage it. I now have 135,000 miles, change the oil, oil filter and air filter every 3,500 miles.
This 9-5 has the lauded Mitsubishi TD04 turbocharger. It's not a dual-scroll. I've always warmed up the car and let it cool down. It's extremely rare for the TD04 to fail...they routinely last 200,000+ miles.
At the time I was car shopping, the Honda Accord, Toyota Avalon and Toyota Camry were on my list. All were $30,000+. A pre-owned Lexus ES350 was $25,000. I park on the streets of Manhattan, where theft of parts is common. Garage parking is $500+ per month. The SAAB was a no-brainer.
I would never buy a new turbocharged car. But for what I paid and the reliability and luxury received, I'd do this kind of deal over again. One thing I do hate...paying for premium fuel.
Mazda turbo vehicle manuals state that the owner can certainly use regular octane gasoline. Power out put will be less, but at least the option is there.
Our '24 CX-5 has a pretty mild turbo system...2.5 liter with a little over 220 hp (and great torque). The transmission keeps revs low unless you really insist otherwise. Feel like we're not stressing the turbo system much. Still great advice. An ounce of prevention and all that.
Same here with a 2018 RAV 4 Hybrid.
Awesome. The info is spot on. My turbo is now 19 years old and still running great at 24PSI. Taking care of the engine/turbo like a nut gives result overtime. Cheers.
I have been following your videos for quite some time and I do find these very educational especially for those who do not have technical background. This particular topic has been of great interest to me as I have been trying to create awareness in my two daughters, each of whom have bought Lexus NX350. My background has been 44 years as a Marine Engineer and have been exposed to very large turbochargers on massive Diesel Engines. There is a lot in common with the automotive turbochargers we have today. THANK YOU for such great contribution.
I loved my 87 dodge Daytona Shelby Z and my 98 eclipse GSX. They never burned oil but that was back in the day when 3,000 mile oil changes were standard. I think they took 10w30 and I always used synthetic. Todays 5000 mile oil changes feel like extended ones to me. I can't imagine going 10,000 miles without changing the oil on a turbocharged car with 0w 20 oil.
0w8 in some Toyotas. Lubricity of acetone.
@@DisabilityExams Viscosity is not an indication of how well it lubes. Are those Toyota cars you speak of hybrids by any chance?
Nice! I had an '87 Sundance 2.2L Turbo I 5 spd. coupe and it went to 155K before I traded it with the original turbo before it started to burn some oil every 3K. It truly was a good car considering the punishment & abuse it had to take from the young angsty fella that I was. 😅
I cant believe how fast 174Hp with a 5 speed felt back in the day. I hammered mine too. My 225/50/15 tires felt wide back then and contributed to my cv joint problems. I had to put new axels in it 3 times in the 4 years I owned it. 17 year old me was an idiot behind the wheel for most of the 60K miles I put on it. My mechanic bought it from me with 135K. @@gwrider2146
Yes, the 0w 8 just seems crazy to me. actually 0w 16 seemed crazy. @@DisabilityExams
The best video on turbo charged engine I must say. Really you're the car care nut👍
Great info! I knew a lot, but I also learned a lot! One of our cars is a turbo, and I change the oil every 4,000 mi; in fact I do that for both cars. It's a bit higher maintenance costs, but I'm convinced it's one of the most important things to increase the longevity of the car.
As a Technician (Retired) for a Major rental Car Co. I have seen 1st. Hand how Turbocharged vehicles could show signs of wear Sooner than later, just as you advise attentive Car Maintenance I too mention this to those who are in the Market or own a vehicle of this Nature, Great Video well explained.
Every 3k miles is better
@@xroda_ might as well make it every time you fill up gas lol. Every 400 miles is even better!
@@xroda_I did every 5k, switching to 3k.
@@couchwarrior2449 1k is better ihmo
Thanks for the tips. I' ve been driving a turbo charged car for quite some time and I appreciate to learn something new
One of the best technical explanation of turbocharged engine characteristics - a must watch video.
Exactly why my next vehicle will be an older Tundra or Tacoma. Naturally aspirated V-8 or V-6. We buy our vehicles, maintain them properly, and drive them for decades. Scotty Kilmer and AMD are wise men and I have no use for anything turbo. Great content, excellent information. May the LORD bless you and keep you.
Scotty Kilmer? Funniest thing I've read all day.....that guy is far from automotive expert😂
Who is AMD?
I love watching Scotty Kilmer 👍🏻
@@willhooke AMD...he's the guy you just watched, the Car Care Nut!
@@MikeR55 I see now 😅
thank you 👍🏻
Great video - thankyou. I learnt some very useful things to enhance the life of my turbo diesel and I am grateful that you share your knowledge.
As a 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder Use a good synthetic Oil. Change every 5k miles also change and flush the coolant every 50k miles!!
Good points all. I would add, if you want your car to be faster, don't mod your engine; instead invest in high performance tires, better brakes & pads, and weight-reductions. And, if you want to FEEL like your going faster, get a racy-sounding cat-back exhaust. It won't actually add any real power, but you'll swear that it does--and it can save a little weight.
One of your best videos!! I had a 1980 Turbo Trans Am and it had a sticker under the hood that said you must change the oil every 3,000 miles or you will invalidate your engine warranty. Of course that was before synthetic oils for cars were on the market.
Mobil 1 synthetic oils were first released for sale in the USA in 1974. I remember seeing the tv ads for it at the time. It was released in Europe before the USA release. Synthetic greases were in use by the military during the 1960s.
I don’t think that car had an actual turbo?
@@joelandersonphotoYes it did.
My brand new 80 Pontiac Formula had a turbo on it for about 2 months before it spun a bearing. It got a 455 as a permanent replacement. I have recently changed my mind about turbo engines because I learned you just have to take a little more care of them and they have gotten really good.
80 and 81 Pontiac 301 turbos were dogs. Most were replaced with a 400 or 455 Pontiac engine swap. They bolted right in and trippled the hp and torque.
Just purchased a 2018 Cx9 with 140,000km on clock. Thanks for this advice I'll be following it to the T 😎👌
Love my Mazda 6 with a 2.5 liter turbo engine. 320 foot pounds of torque at 2,500 rpm, way better than any V6 can manage for anywhere close to Mazda 6 money
Always pleasure to listen, everything explained in a normal, polite way! No silly F words nor anything like that! Thumbs up👍
Are you as obsessed about loving people as you are obsessed with silly words?
@@BeefNEggs057Is everything OK with you?
I'm sure there is a lot wrong with you.
Another superb video rammed with knowhow and advice. Ccn is one of the very best channels to view on cars and maintenance and integrity and honesty are the watchwords you can trust.
Absolutely love the 5 cylinder turbo (T5) in my 2014 Volvo V40 Cross Country. Have owned the car since new and just pushed through 45,000km.
Regular Engine Oil (0W 30) & Filter changes every 5,000km or 6 months. 95 Octane only. Great car. No plans to ever sell.
I improved the reliability of my wife’s 2019 civic 1.5t “earth dreams” turbo by dumping it for a 2023 rav4.
Just bought a 2 ltr turbo falcon...2012 model, 125,000 km's on the clock. Goes well. Scratching around on youtube concerning the ifs, buts and maybes of turbo engines...this 20 minute gem was all I needed to know
Honda for its 1.5 Turbo in the 2023 and later Accord🚗 and CRV🚙 changed the fuel recommendation to 91+ premium.
Probably would be a good idea to use 91+ for all Honda turbos no matter the year to avoid problems that are showing up.
I think Honda is a great company but I really hope Toyota does a much better job with their new turbos than Honda did with the 1.5T. I wonder if that engine is good now or if it still has oil dilution problems? The 1.5 T is the modern turbo engine that makes me worry most about turbocharging.
If the car is made for regular it won't matter.
@briankalagher6687 Yep, and for that reason I always recomend 3K to 4K oil change intervals for 1.5L turbo Honda owners.🤷
That's not a great sign. Shows that the engine is operating at a very thin tolerance I would think. I would much rather have a larger displacement and NA and give up a few MPG in exchange. It's a shame that you have that option less and less as time goes on and V6 is not even an option.. I bought a 2015 Camry recently because it had the 6 cylinder which is quite a nice and reliable engine which I don't worry about like I would if I had gotten the Honda 2.0 turbo or even the older Honda V6.
@@briankalagher66872.4 t Toyota has being use since 2015 16 with the Nx no issues unlike Honda 1.5 blowing head gaskets
I just wish manufactures go the Honda route and make things easier to work on, especially the turbo. If I'm able to service my own turbo in my garage then I'd be much happier in adopting these turbocharged engines. Nothing lasts forever and easy of service makes for a much more pleasant ownership experience.
On the 1.5 Liter Honda Turbo engine the exhaust manifold is not separate from the cylinder head it it all molded 1 piece into the cylinder head and is also water jacketed so coolant flows through the exhaust manifold also.
2024 Accord 1.5L Turbo here; this little engine is great and gets 38mpg at 75mph, which is crazy good. I have faith in Honda and there are cars out there with 200K plus miles with 1.5L Turbo engines and no issues. A friend of mine has driven Accords since he graduated high school, and he is 50 years old now with a 1.5L Turbo in his current Accord. I changed my oil at 5K and will continue to do so. Oil changes are free at the dealer where I bought the car, yet I will never let a dealer do it here in Louisiana because all we have around are saggy pants fruit loops that have no idea how to work on a car.
Taking a moment to appreciate Jose’s camera work. It looks amazing. Well done.
I find your content very technically educational, and it helped me make informed decisions when discussing maintenance issues with my mechanics at service centers. Keep up the good work Sir. I am based in Malaysia.
🇲🇾
Two of my last few cars were turbo-charged. Thankfully both were reliable. Might buy another, and this video definitely helped me understand turbos better.
I owns a 2019 Subaru Ascent (turbo), so far no issues. In the beginning I was using regular gas and I never added injector cleaners. I was getting around 19mpg. A mechanic recommended me to use premium gas and to add injectors cleaner every 3-4K. Ever since I changed to this my MPG went for the previous one to 22.5mpg on average. We never start running the car without warming it up and always let it cool down for couple of minutes after driving it. We also change the oil every 5K miles.
Nice!
Warming it up and letting it cool down are actually pointless as modern engines don't warm up from idling. Also modern engines already have the cooling covered after you drive - even after you turn the engine off, the cooling system has an independent cicruit and will run even after the engine is turned off (at least that's what I observed on VW cars). Otherwise I commend you for taking such great care of your car. The frequent oil changes are what really makes a difference - turbo engines need high quality oil and they tend to dilute oil with fuel on short journeys (Since they all use direct injection and if the engine doesn't heat up to proper operating temperatures, the fuel won't properly mix with the air and after you turn the engine off, the fuel will stay in the cylinder and leak down to mix with the oil - which is the reason why you shouldn't drive short distances with turbo engines and if you do you should change oil more frequently). Also using injector cleaner is a good idea since carbonization is a common issue.
@@michalsvihla1403 I have read excellent mechanics that do recommend my statement. They state that turbines injects high flow of air (oxygen) to the combustion chamber. They state that warming up the engine for a time makes the air flow at higher temperatures therefore the turbine works with less effort and makes it last longer. Thanks for your comments on my car care habits. I am not a mechanic therefore I will not start a dilema on this. So far so good with my procedures. By the way this is my third turbo engine ( two previous WRX) they worked super fine all the time I had them.
Warming a car up especially during a cold winter morning can actually be detrimental to the engine. You're just allowing water to accumulate in the combustion chamber and eventually allow the water to seep through the piston rings and then contaminate the oil. In addition to repeated short trips with warm ups can be very detrimental. A better strategy is to start the engine up and after about a minute start driving the car like a civilized individual (no racing the engine until the engine is completely warmed up). This will warm up the engine faster because it's under light load preventing moisture build up. @@ericpizarro3084
I'm sorry but both of these comments are not 100%. First of all, the ECM will adjust the fuel trim so the air/fuel mixture will be optimal, regardless of the temperature of the engine. Second, hot air is the bane of turbo performance because hot air reduces density of the air/fuel charge. That's why you see car manufacturers put intercoolers to cool down the air after it gets pushed by the turbo.
Regardless proper maintenance is always the best preventive measure. Keep doing the 3k oil changes and by all means let the turbo slow down, especially after a spirited drive. Good luck!