I watch a ton of videos here on the tubes. You have submitted one of THEE best on this subject I have seen. Beating names like BleepinJeep among others. You have certainly gained a follower with me. WELL DONE!
those WJ knuckles and calipers were designed to be used with 17" rims. I don't know that it matters that much but if you wanted a little more space, you may consider larger rims.
Oh man. Word of advice. If you can send in your brackets AND calipers for refurbished ones. On mine the caliper pins were seized on and had to do extra work to get them to move correctly.
Something very important you didn't mention (or if you did I didn't catch it) is the lower ball joint needs to be for the WJ knuckles (I believe the upper is the same as the XJ though). It's hard to tell unless you're familiar with them, or compare them side by side, but the WJ WJ knuckle doesn't quite fit the XJ lower ball joint perfectly, and stud will have some movement in the bore.
You didn't need the caliper spacers because you're using WJ rotors. If you use 2002 Explorer Sport Trac rotors (already set up for 5x4.5 bolt pattern and nearly identical in size) you need the spacers
well just starting watching this video, never buy rebuilt unless you have to. rebuild them yourself save the 100$+ on it. now if the piston is to pitted then yes or fine new pistons but always rebuild it. if you are doing this job then you have the skills to rebuild.
I just found your channel and I like that you do everything yourself. I have a WJ and I want to make my own control arms and put about 4.5 inches of lift on it. I'm having trouble finding springs for it, I like a really stiff ride just like my Ford F350. Any suggestions on where I should look for springs. I want to fab the entire build except for bushings. Point me in any direction that you think might help me.
Good job on getting 'er done. Your extra body roll is due to not having a sway bar. I'd highly recommend you find an aftermarket solution for that. I know because of your track bar mount you've got to find something special or make your own. It can be highly dangerous at highway speeds and you needing to make quick turns without a sway bar. I am in the middle of doing this conversion on my ZJ (98 GC), and I find that the spacing in between the caliper support bracket and the knuckle is greater than what I had been reading about. Instead of 1/4" I have found mine to be about 3/8-7/16" off. I also am running 15x10 rims with about 4" of backspacing. I was worried, but after seeing your set up I can sleep easier on it. Overall thanks for uploading this, but again, get a sway bar if your driving on the highways bud! Good job!
Hey man thanks for the video. I have most of the parts to do this to my xj. The only difference is that i have a Yukon locking hub kit that I’m going to integrate at the same time that i do this mod. I came to ask you how do you like keeping the tie rod and drag link under the knuckle in the stock configuration? In my opinion going over the knuckle is a better option BUT, it’s nice to not have to redrill and ream the tapers for one ton tie rod ends or use tie rod flip inserts. Plus staying under the knuckle leaves more room for sway bar links. My jeep will likely never see rocks, just as you have stated you do mostly mud or sand. I’m not that concerned about tie rod clearance as some people are. But, what’s your opinion? Does your jeep ride better with that steering set up?
A great video and I appreciate the detailed discussion you provide throughout each part of the upgrade. I have an 1998 XJ and have been reading up on the WJ tie rod & drag link upgrade, which is supposed to be 100% compatible with our XJ's. I'm curious as to why they didn't work for you.
I bet money you had to go and put those spacers huh? If you didn't it's only cause you have hubs that were meant for I believe the 06 TJ Rubicon cause those have s little difference in depth and they also have longer wheel stubs for the Rubi wheels or even I think like 2000 and up xj hubs or something there were two hub options that made it so you don't need to use the caliper spacers and it sorta looks like you have longer wheel stubs in the video so I was curious.
you are not running anti-sway bar in front? Don't see the axle-brackets. Your drag-link would have to be *bent* to go around the passenger-side sway-bar bracket, like many aftermarket cross-over steering (IRO, Cavfab, etc)
I like your written words in the beginning. It gets you out of responsibility. I hate people that look at a video and believe everything out there. Then when things go wrong they want you to pay for there mistakes. I think every video should say, ( if you are STUPiD or a big "P" don't look at this.😝
What pad did you use? Braking improvement without higher pedal pressure or longer travel will come from higher coefficient pads. For an XJ or WJ,. that is probably EBC YellowStuff of Hawk HPS 5.0.
That's a great tip I don't know why all these swap videos don't mention that unless they don't know. I didn't know but I'm in the middle of this swap and definitely am going to get these rotors instead of drilling out the wj.
Put stab in and you run it for what it does on free way instead of 80-90 Yvan buy a quick disconnect for it have em on my wj for stabilizer and sway links
99-01.5 got the Teves and the 01.5-04 got the Akebono. The caliper, bracket and rotor are different between the two. Neither is gonna be better or worse than the other on a Cherokee. It would only matter in a heavy vehicle.
What about the rear brakes? A stock XJ has an awful lot of front-bias and bigger front brakes are going to make that worse. Just touch the pedal on an icy road and you're not going to get any assistance from the rear, which is a real problem if you have some tongue weight on the hitch.
@@inkedbuddhist5220 That's what I was thinking since the ZJ rear disc creates too much rear brake bias, by the time the fronts are upgraded, it may balance out well.
@@paulstandaert5709 The proportioning valve evens out the brake bias. The ZJ brakes function much better w/less fluid pushed thru them. MC is important too. Pre 96 requires the dual diaphragm MC upgrade if upgrading front or rear.
I did this as well and it was roughly 800 depending on part sourcing and how much work you can do yourself (ie welding, alignment, aftermarket parts or fabbed parts, etc)
@@Prerunner_xj Ain’t no way I’d spend $800 on this project! I guess if you are used to just bolting stuff on with no thinking after you buy everything it will cost that much; good used stuff is out there and like another said: hone and rebuild everything yourself.
@@fishhuntadventure funny thing is I’m upgrading away from that too going with a Dana 44, Reid knuckles, wilwood 6 pistons, 4130 shafts, heim steering, stronger diff cover, and some other stuff to support 35’s, wish I hadn’t wasted time and money but at the time needed to upgrade and had limited funds and resources
He probably used the old XJ caliper, and punched a center, then drilled it out. My understanding is that 03 4x4 Explorer sport trac rotors work without any mods
Guy: *Puts a days effort and money to get double piston Akebono calipers and bigger rotors* Also Guy: *Puts on car quests cheapest pads* Me: *Facepalm*
Because it is wider, and a low pinion axle. Also the spring perches are different so you'd still have to modify the axle not to mention the hubs are 5x5 bolt pattern, and AFAIK the only way to change it would be wheel adapters that would make it even wider.
(You call it Upgrade i call it Downgrade.) Have a Stock 2000 Jeep Cherokee and keep it as stock as possible. Taking a Thousand Dollar Jeep XJ and Spending 10 Grand on it is just a bad move. Bought mine as a one owner ride with (70 Thousand miles) on it. The first owner paid ed 24 Thousand New, to drive it 70 Thousand miles. I paid ed 38 Hundred in 2008, owned it for 11 yr's and added another 70 Thousand miles to the Odometer only doing minor repairs. The more you play with the Suspension the worst they ride as in Death Wobbles and making it easier to Flip Over ext. I'm sure you know you are going to loose Big Dollars in the end. Just the money spent on huge Tires and Rims can buy you a second Jeep XJ. Not to mention the hours and hours of labor spent. Have a friend with a Smaller Jeep Wrangler and he wasted Thousands on it putting on all the Bells and Whistles only to make such a good off road ride he no longer enjoys driving it on the road so he has it for sale. He's had it in his Yard for 2 Yr's trying to get back the 12 Grand he spent on it. 90's Jeep Wrangler that no one in there right mind is going to give him 12 Thousand for it. To anyone who reads this keep your ride road worthy. Don't bury yourself in a ride that in the end you loose Thousands on. If you are dead set on doing all these upgrades take a look at a site called (martinbuilt) on UA-cam.
Lol i think you came across this video by accident or something then if that's your take on it why watch it. I can say a few thing one is that's more then a 1,000$ XJ if he sold it today it would sell for at least probably 4,500 more like 5,500. I've had 8 XJS loved everyone of them all stock at one point or another. I currently own a 98 paid 1,300 for it in perfect stock condition with over 4,400 in receipts for tons of new parts in the 3 years the owner owned it before me I love suckers like that who let a super desired legendary suv that's saught after as theese go for so cheap and with all those receipts but that's farther and fewer between you have to look daily for those cause XJS that cheap that aren't a pile of garbage go insanely fast least here in Washington state. I've now got a total of 8-9.5k in it did all the work myself the jeep is lifted Rusty's 8.5" long arm kit 8.5" Rusty's springs trussed out front axle c-gussets welded inner tube sleeves 1/4" lower control arm mounts outer greesable outer axle seals WJ brake upgrade and an OX locker. Rear is a 31 spline LSD Ford 8.8" with disc brakes has 35" BFG km2 a completely framed out boxed in unibody upgraded borgeson steering shaft red top tapped gear box for hydro assist steering psc ram Rusty's steel fender flares and some more. The jeep with the WJ upgrade stops on a dime the framed out unibody makes the thing an absolute night and day difference from stock unibody stock jeep hitting any kind of speed bumps or huge pot holes the thing can do 85 mph freeway straight down it with two fingers on the wheel. If I was to sell the thing today I could sell it for at least 10k might take a month or two even but it would absolutely sell for every penny I have in it. Like I said I've had 8 of these so I can say I know this thing rides and drives so nice and if your any kind of an intelligent driver you won't flip at all sure I can't say it would corner like a stock one but for everything else on the upgrade not down graded side I'll take that cause I'm a damn good driver anyway. The thing is I have a second 98 one that isn't stock either 3" lift a winch and front bumper and I just have to say that if you know how to do your own work and are intelligent enough to do it the RIGHT way it's not only not a waste of time or money it's actually very fun to do something with yourself most people just look for the easiest way to do nothing in life and sit around on a couch this is so much better and also I can buy XJS do minor lifts and sell them for a nice profit when people are dumb enough to let them go for 1,000 or a bit more or less saying things in the craigslist like ah needs alot of work brakes thermostat an alignment or even I've come across one for only 500 that had 170,000 on it only needed an alternator and serpentine belt lmao that was an easy steal. Just wanted to let you know the real skinny on what things are and others as well on what's possible and realistic but your right about one thing man theese go forever and ever with minor repairs and maintenance just not if your like the goofball I bought one of mine from and pay people at shops a mint to do simpleton work. I will say I will be looking to get a third jeep in mint condition and keep it stock cause I just love XJS and also I will restore it to like new cause theese will be beyound searched for 20 years from now by 4 wheelers and actual car collectors alike they are like everything else that was ever a great thing going away by the day such a shame.
i know this was clearly an uneducated, narrow minded, comment from someone that has no need to watch this video. if you like a stock vehicle, than keep YOUR vehicle stock... 1) being able to stop better is a BIG upgrade 2) if you live in big mountains, stock rotors are almost impossible to NOT warp with stock calipers 3) if suspension work and custom building is done correctly, it will drive better, not worse (so, if your friend has bad road manners, it is because he cut corners or made poor design choices) 4) spending hours and hours of what you call "labor", is what most real men call "entertainment" 5) NEVER build anything custom and then try to sell it and fyi; i have 3 jeep, stock 98 tj, stock 2001 xj and a custom built 98 xj (5.5" lift, 35" tires, ford 8.8 rear, trussed & gusseted d30, 4.88 gears, locked front & rear, disk brakes front&rear, frame stiffeners, sye, antirock sway bar, and much more) and the custom built xj drives like stock on the road, but goes 10 times more places offroad. it is my own choice to spend $700 on an xj and another $8,000 to build it. i will keep it forever. it still cost me way less than most people spend on a car that will be in crushed for scarp metal in 5-10 years you can do what you want with YOUR car, but do NOT stifle other peoples creativity and fun with your narrow minded know-it-all attitude...
Everyone is entitled their own opinion, but I have my own mind. I don't think you've ever been bitten by the Jeep bug. I'm not sure if you've ever gone off-road with it(not talking about rock crawling either, just simple overland stuff), and it is possible you've never had the chance to go off-road in a good area. East of the Mississippi has very few good overland trips to do. Get out and about in your Jeep and I think you'll have a different opinion about doing things to it. I spent a lot on mine as well, but like others commenting here: much less than your average person will spend on several cars over their lifetime. I bought mine with 110k on it, and have put 120k on it since. I am doing something similar to this modification and expect to get another 300K after an engine rebuild in another 75k. Sure, I'd sell it but like most here the price would be too damn high for any one other than a Jeep guy to consider. TIFWIW and YMMV...
It just sounds like your friend made some poor choices and perhaps didn't educate themselves, which has nothing to do with the person who made this video. Well built rigs handle better on road than stock every time, and for every person who makes poor build choices there are many more that make appropriate choices.
This was the MOST helpful video I have found on this swap!! Thank you for sharing!!!!
I watch a ton of videos here on the tubes. You have submitted one of THEE best on this subject I have seen. Beating names like BleepinJeep among others. You have certainly gained a follower with me. WELL DONE!
Love the video, addresses the problems you might run into...
Thanks for the honest video!!!
Thank you , I fell in the same spot today with my wj swap steering to long .saw your video, and ordered the jsk , thanks again
I also think those JKS pieces are great. Way stronger than stock but still with readily available WJ parts. A much better solution for on road use.
those WJ knuckles and calipers were designed to be used with 17" rims. I don't know that it matters that much but if you wanted a little more space, you may consider larger rims.
Nice job.I have my WJ knuckles,calipers,and brackets.Still need spacers and all the other stuff before I get started..
Oh man. Word of advice. If you can send in your brackets AND calipers for refurbished ones. On mine the caliper pins were seized on and had to do extra work to get them to move correctly.
Something very important you didn't mention (or if you did I didn't catch it) is the lower ball joint needs to be for the WJ knuckles (I believe the upper is the same as the XJ though). It's hard to tell unless you're familiar with them, or compare them side by side, but the WJ WJ knuckle doesn't quite fit the XJ lower ball joint perfectly, and stud will have some movement in the bore.
^ X2
u can used ZJ ball joint to
5:43
I’m running WJ lowers and XJ uppers. So much for getting the dual load carrying ball joint kit🙄
You didn't need the caliper spacers because you're using WJ rotors. If you use 2002 Explorer Sport Trac rotors (already set up for 5x4.5 bolt pattern and nearly identical in size) you need the spacers
I thought it's because he's got an xj that uses the newer '98 or '99+ hubs, he mentions it @27:53
@@blakek2619 you may be right. i don't remember what the difference is between older and newer hubs
Would this work for reg stock xj knuckles ? Without swapping whole knuckle arm
@@MoneyM0VESme no
Early 99 XJ had a different hub than mid year. One has a taller hat.
Lol! I've been assembling parts to do this myself! Ya beat me to it!! 👍
Im kinda temped to do it to the fiance's XJ too. Not gonna lie. Fun project with a lot of learning curves.
@@thecherokeechannel688 awesome! Can't wait to give it a shot!
Hey brother, would you be able to put the list of all the parts you used in the description? 😉
well just starting watching this video, never buy rebuilt unless you have to. rebuild them yourself save the 100$+ on it. now if the piston is to pitted then yes or fine new pistons but always rebuild it. if you are doing this job then you have the skills to rebuild.
I just found your channel and I like that you do everything yourself. I have a WJ and I want to make my own control arms and put about 4.5 inches of lift on it. I'm having trouble finding springs for it, I like a really stiff ride just like my Ford F350. Any suggestions on where I should look for springs. I want to fab the entire build except for bushings. Point me in any direction that you think might help me.
Good job on getting 'er done. Your extra body roll is due to not having a sway bar. I'd highly recommend you find an aftermarket solution for that. I know because of your track bar mount you've got to find something special or make your own. It can be highly dangerous at highway speeds and you needing to make quick turns without a sway bar. I am in the middle of doing this conversion on my ZJ (98 GC), and I find that the spacing in between the caliper support bracket and the knuckle is greater than what I had been reading about. Instead of 1/4" I have found mine to be about 3/8-7/16" off. I also am running 15x10 rims with about 4" of backspacing. I was worried, but after seeing your set up I can sleep easier on it. Overall thanks for uploading this, but again, get a sway bar if your driving on the highways bud! Good job!
Hey man thanks for the video. I have most of the parts to do this to my xj. The only difference is that i have a Yukon locking hub kit that I’m going to integrate at the same time that i do this mod. I came to ask you how do you like keeping the tie rod and drag link under the knuckle in the stock configuration? In my opinion going over the knuckle is a better option BUT, it’s nice to not have to redrill and ream the tapers for one ton tie rod ends or use tie rod flip inserts. Plus staying under the knuckle leaves more room for sway bar links. My jeep will likely never see rocks, just as you have stated you do mostly mud or sand. I’m not that concerned about tie rod clearance as some people are. But, what’s your opinion? Does your jeep ride better with that steering set up?
My xj needs this bad, I'm on 33s and it doesnt stop for shit. Lol
Nice easy setup! When the sway bar video going up?????
The 99 XJ came with two different wheel bearing hub assemblies!
I really enjoyed this video. I'm thinking of doing this mod, just getting my research right now! Let know how everything worked out for you.
A great video and I appreciate the detailed discussion you provide throughout each part of the upgrade. I have an 1998 XJ and have been reading up on the WJ tie rod & drag link upgrade, which is supposed to be 100% compatible with our XJ's. I'm curious as to why they didn't work for you.
Because a WJ front axle is 4" wider than an XJ, so the parts are 4" too long for an XJ.
I bet money you had to go and put those spacers huh? If you didn't it's only cause you have hubs that were meant for I believe the 06 TJ Rubicon cause those have s little difference in depth and they also have longer wheel stubs for the Rubi wheels or even I think like 2000 and up xj hubs or something there were two hub options that made it so you don't need to use the caliper spacers and it sorta looks like you have longer wheel stubs in the video so I was curious.
you are not running anti-sway bar in front? Don't see the axle-brackets. Your drag-link would have to be *bent* to go around the passenger-side sway-bar bracket, like many aftermarket cross-over steering (IRO, Cavfab, etc)
99-01 used Teves calipers, 02-04 used Akebono. Teves are notorious for warping rotors, Akebonos don't.
Where did u get the track. Bar mount bracket u installed
So the spacer is used to get the xj hub to work? Say a guy just uses wj hubs I'm running adapters on jk wheels anyway. Would that work
I like your written words in the beginning. It gets you out of responsibility. I hate people that look at a video and believe everything out there. Then when things go wrong they want you to pay for there mistakes. I think every video should say, ( if you are STUPiD or a big "P" don't look at this.😝
Мужик ты молодец 👍
What pad did you use? Braking improvement without higher pedal pressure or longer travel will come from higher coefficient pads. For an XJ or WJ,. that is probably EBC YellowStuff of Hawk HPS 5.0.
Ford sport track brakes can be used you wouldn’t have to drill they have the same bolt holes for a tj/xj
What year
2003 make sure you get the 4x4 ones
That's a great tip I don't know why all these swap videos don't mention that unless they don't know. I didn't know but I'm in the middle of this swap and definitely am going to get these rotors instead of drilling out the wj.
@@iflytango it depends on what extra work and compromises you tolerate. Drilling rotors is easy imho
Put stab in and you run it for what it does on free way instead of 80-90 Yvan buy a quick disconnect for it have em on my wj for stabilizer and sway links
Who is the manufacturer of the track bar mount?
And did u have to use the wj ball joints or xj s
You needed to upgrade to the 16i nch rims at minimum.
I know a lot of people say that they run 15" wheels, with 3.75" backspacing and have no problems
99-01.5 got the Teves and the 01.5-04 got the Akebono. The caliper, bracket and rotor are different between the two. Neither is gonna be better or worse than the other on a Cherokee. It would only matter in a heavy vehicle.
Rotors are the same
Nice work. Looks good
where did you buy the jk steering rods?
Where did you get those front rotors. Looks like dual bolt pattern 5 on 5" (standard Grand Cherokee WJ) and 5 on 5.5". Thanks
They are re drilled for 5x4.5 so they can go on the stock xj wheel bearing
Great vid
I think you need a sharper hammer saw
What is the measurement from the center of the hub to the outside of the Akebono Caliper?
What about the rear brakes? A stock XJ has an awful lot of front-bias and bigger front brakes are going to make that worse. Just touch the pedal on an icy road and you're not going to get any assistance from the rear, which is a real problem if you have some tongue weight on the hitch.
Use ZJ rear brake set up. Use a WJ non ABS brake proportion valve. If you search you'll find lots of great write ups.
@@inkedbuddhist5220 That's what I was thinking since the ZJ rear disc creates too much rear brake bias, by the time the fronts are upgraded, it may balance out well.
@@paulstandaert5709 The proportioning valve evens out the brake bias. The ZJ brakes function much better w/less fluid pushed thru them. MC is important too. Pre 96 requires the dual diaphragm MC upgrade if upgrading front or rear.
Where’s the stabilizer
Why do you need the spacer between the bearing and the knuckle?
To correct the alignment of the u joint insde the knuckle.
@@briandady9030 but also causes a spacing issue (3/8 to 7/16-ish) with the caliper bracket that you have to adjust for.... FYI
What did this cost in total?
I did this as well and it was roughly 800 depending on part sourcing and how much work you can do yourself (ie welding, alignment, aftermarket parts or fabbed parts, etc)
@@Prerunner_xj
Ain’t no way I’d spend $800 on this project! I guess if you are used to just bolting stuff on with no thinking after you buy everything it will cost that much; good used stuff is out there and like another said: hone and rebuild everything yourself.
@@fishhuntadventure funny thing is I’m upgrading away from that too going with a Dana 44, Reid knuckles, wilwood 6 pistons, 4130 shafts, heim steering, stronger diff cover, and some other stuff to support 35’s, wish I hadn’t wasted time and money but at the time needed to upgrade and had limited funds and resources
Need link for jig used to drill rotors please.
He probably used the old XJ caliper, and punched a center, then drilled it out. My understanding is that 03 4x4 Explorer sport trac rotors work without any mods
Guy: *Puts a days effort and money to get double piston Akebono calipers and bigger rotors*
Also Guy: *Puts on car quests cheapest pads*
Me: *Facepalm*
Why not take the whole axle ?????????????????????
I was just thinking the same thing.
Because it is wider, and a low pinion axle. Also the spring perches are different so you'd still have to modify the axle not to mention the hubs are 5x5 bolt pattern, and AFAIK the only way to change it would be wheel adapters that would make it even wider.
Got ya your right.
Simple answer wj dana 30 axle is a pos
Fron spein, mi name is Manuel, gut yap... Sory main inglés is bat...
I am truly surprised you can 75 or 80 mph period i run out of gear is 68 mph
Need lights no look de job
Blaaa Blaaa Blaaa. Too many words. So many people include redundant information. People love to hear them self's talk.
wtf;
(You call it Upgrade i call it Downgrade.) Have a Stock 2000 Jeep Cherokee and keep it as stock as possible. Taking a Thousand Dollar Jeep XJ and Spending 10 Grand on it is just a bad move. Bought mine as a one owner ride with (70 Thousand miles) on it. The first owner paid ed 24 Thousand New, to drive it 70 Thousand miles. I paid ed 38 Hundred in 2008, owned it for 11 yr's and added another 70 Thousand miles to the Odometer only doing minor repairs. The more you play with the Suspension the worst they ride as in Death Wobbles and making it easier to Flip Over ext. I'm sure you know you are going to loose Big Dollars in the end. Just the money spent on huge Tires and Rims can buy you a second Jeep XJ. Not to mention the hours and hours of labor spent. Have a friend with a Smaller Jeep Wrangler and he wasted Thousands on it putting on all the Bells and Whistles only to make such a good off road ride he no longer enjoys driving it on the road so he has it for sale. He's had it in his Yard for 2 Yr's trying to get back the 12 Grand he spent on it. 90's Jeep Wrangler that no one in there right mind is going to give him 12 Thousand for it. To anyone who reads this keep your ride road worthy. Don't bury yourself in a ride that in the end you loose Thousands on. If you are dead set on doing all these upgrades take a look at a site called (martinbuilt) on UA-cam.
Lol i think you came across this video by accident or something then if that's your take on it why watch it. I can say a few thing one is that's more then a 1,000$ XJ if he sold it today it would sell for at least probably 4,500 more like 5,500. I've had 8 XJS loved everyone of them all stock at one point or another. I currently own a 98 paid 1,300 for it in perfect stock condition with over 4,400 in receipts for tons of new parts in the 3 years the owner owned it before me I love suckers like that who let a super desired legendary suv that's saught after as theese go for so cheap and with all those receipts but that's farther and fewer between you have to look daily for those cause XJS that cheap that aren't a pile of garbage go insanely fast least here in Washington state. I've now got a total of 8-9.5k in it did all the work myself the jeep is lifted Rusty's 8.5" long arm kit 8.5" Rusty's springs trussed out front axle c-gussets welded inner tube sleeves 1/4" lower control arm mounts outer greesable outer axle seals WJ brake upgrade and an OX locker. Rear is a 31 spline LSD Ford 8.8" with disc brakes has 35" BFG km2 a completely framed out boxed in unibody upgraded borgeson steering shaft red top tapped gear box for hydro assist steering psc ram Rusty's steel fender flares and some more. The jeep with the WJ upgrade stops on a dime the framed out unibody makes the thing an absolute night and day difference from stock unibody stock jeep hitting any kind of speed bumps or huge pot holes the thing can do 85 mph freeway straight down it with two fingers on the wheel. If I was to sell the thing today I could sell it for at least 10k might take a month or two even but it would absolutely sell for every penny I have in it. Like I said I've had 8 of these so I can say I know this thing rides and drives so nice and if your any kind of an intelligent driver you won't flip at all sure I can't say it would corner like a stock one but for everything else on the upgrade not down graded side I'll take that cause I'm a damn good driver anyway. The thing is I have a second 98 one that isn't stock either 3" lift a winch and front bumper and I just have to say that if you know how to do your own work and are intelligent enough to do it the RIGHT way it's not only not a waste of time or money it's actually very fun to do something with yourself most people just look for the easiest way to do nothing in life and sit around on a couch this is so much better and also I can buy XJS do minor lifts and sell them for a nice profit when people are dumb enough to let them go for 1,000 or a bit more or less saying things in the craigslist like ah needs alot of work brakes thermostat an alignment or even I've come across one for only 500 that had 170,000 on it only needed an alternator and serpentine belt lmao that was an easy steal. Just wanted to let you know the real skinny on what things are and others as well on what's possible and realistic but your right about one thing man theese go forever and ever with minor repairs and maintenance just not if your like the goofball I bought one of mine from and pay people at shops a mint to do simpleton work. I will say I will be looking to get a third jeep in mint condition and keep it stock cause I just love XJS and also I will restore it to like new cause theese will be beyound searched for 20 years from now by 4 wheelers and actual car collectors alike they are like everything else that was ever a great thing going away by the day such a shame.
i know this was clearly an uneducated, narrow minded, comment from someone that has no need to watch this video. if you like a stock vehicle, than keep YOUR vehicle stock...
1) being able to stop better is a BIG upgrade
2) if you live in big mountains, stock rotors are almost impossible to NOT warp with stock calipers
3) if suspension work and custom building is done correctly, it will drive better, not worse (so, if your friend has bad road manners, it is because he cut corners or made poor design choices)
4) spending hours and hours of what you call "labor", is what most real men call "entertainment"
5) NEVER build anything custom and then try to sell it
and fyi; i have 3 jeep, stock 98 tj, stock 2001 xj and a custom built 98 xj (5.5" lift, 35" tires, ford 8.8 rear, trussed & gusseted d30, 4.88 gears, locked front & rear, disk brakes front&rear, frame stiffeners, sye, antirock sway bar, and much more) and the custom built xj drives like stock on the road, but goes 10 times more places offroad. it is my own choice to spend $700 on an xj and another $8,000 to build it. i will keep it forever. it still cost me way less than most people spend on a car that will be in crushed for scarp metal in 5-10 years
you can do what you want with YOUR car, but do NOT stifle other peoples creativity and fun with your narrow minded know-it-all attitude...
boooring
Everyone is entitled their own opinion, but I have my own mind. I don't think you've ever been bitten by the Jeep bug. I'm not sure if you've ever gone off-road with it(not talking about rock crawling either, just simple overland stuff), and it is possible you've never had the chance to go off-road in a good area. East of the Mississippi has very few good overland trips to do. Get out and about in your Jeep and I think you'll have a different opinion about doing things to it. I spent a lot on mine as well, but like others commenting here: much less than your average person will spend on several cars over their lifetime. I bought mine with 110k on it, and have put 120k on it since. I am doing something similar to this modification and expect to get another 300K after an engine rebuild in another 75k. Sure, I'd sell it but like most here the price would be too damn high for any one other than a Jeep guy to consider. TIFWIW and YMMV...
It just sounds like your friend made some poor choices and perhaps didn't educate themselves, which has nothing to do with the person who made this video. Well built rigs handle better on road than stock every time, and for every person who makes poor build choices there are many more that make appropriate choices.