Actually some resistance in the hatch slide isnt a bad idea You dont want thing sliding back and forth when you are in a seaway Its a lot easier watching you paint the hull inside than doing it myself :) have a good one
I think I would drill through from the other side and fasten with stainless bolts and washers. Could use a regular nut and or cap nut. I think it would be stronger.
Has to be a way to drill those from that confined space. Even if you have to use a smaller bit to just get the hole through then you can open it up from the other side. Love watching you DIY guys figure this stuff out. Do you guys follow "Sail Life" ? Mads runs into this stuff all the time.
Use a right angle air die grinder with 1/4 Colette to hold the drill bit , very small tool and will fit in that space NP , you may have to buy step drills to the size you need , but they are available in 1/4 inch shanks. Best Regards J
Just drill the holes through the back, make a template of chainplate and use it to mark your holes through the back. Boat is looking SWEET. Nothing looks better than gloss white, LOVE IT‼️👍👍⛵️ Vinny 🇺🇸
This series of videos were the first ones I followed great job your doing but no enthusiasm at all my only complaint cheer up guys soon you'll be sailing her cheers
Awesome work SailBros just a question for you could you Spray that water base Paint? I am trying to learn as much I can. Before I take on a restore a Sailboat for when Retirement begains for me. Love to watch all you Awesome people working on there Dream of Sailboat restore God Bless you two Bros
Seems like you should be able to drill from the other side just measure how far the chainplate sticks up through the deck, then take that measurement and apply the adjusted measurement to the other side and drill through.
Yeah that would probably work. I was just worried about hole alignment. If I drill at different angles accidentally the holes on the chainplate wont line up very well.
Why not paint the inside with epoxy paint? When it comes to the drilling for the chainplates, you could transport the spot you choose for the hole, from one side to the other using a piece of metal wire, a loop of wire, with the ends pointing inwards against each other. Just an idea :)
Wow what a difference the paint and varnish makes. Also, really enjoyed the field trip! I am always fascinated on how fabricating of parts are done. So Thank You so much for that!
I was really looking forward to seeing the finished companionway cover. Making me wait for the next episode. It's looking really good! Interior looks great!! We can hear the satisfaction in your voice, too. Well done!
I've modified a tiny right angle pneumatic die grinder to take a drill chuck, even had to cut the drill bit short from the back side to get into tight spaces. Better yet, mark you holes with a center punch on the narrow side and transfer the holes to the other side using a common point of reference. I know how difficult this is on a boat where there are practically no right angles and nothing is really symmetrical, but it can be done.
Measure up and make a template for the bottom half of the chainplate lose fit the chainplate and measure round from the base. Won't matter if you are out by a couple of mm. Boats looking good👍
Looking good when your done the next ones to have to redo it next will be your grandchildren,I see the makings of longevity, keep it up boys looking really good teak just pops our nice.
Im asuming its because the chainplate comes though on that side , if so just paper template it and should line up no problem the opposite side , then easy drilling , boats coming on great , all the efforts paying off
That chainplate you were talking about at 10:05 should be through bolted with SS bolts and nuts. it should also have a backing plate for extra strength.
@@SailBrosIt does solve the problem of drilling. Now you can drill from the other side. The reason I said backing plate is it is more surface area, and it is a standard practice on a lot of boats. If you are not going to cross oceans then the washers should work.
Per drilling holes for the chain plates... I’m not understanding why you can’t clamp a backer board to prevent tear out on the other side and drill through from the right. Is it hole alignment that you’re worried about?
Yeah, I'm worried about the holes not lining up. If I drilled straight holes in a thick chunk of wood on a drillpress and used that as a jig I probably wouldn't have any problems. We'll see.
SailBros, perhaps make a stiff paperboard template, cut it to the shape and tape it to the chain plate side of the mounting bulkhead. Position the chainplate and pencil the chain plate holes onto the paper. Drill two very small alignment holes through the mounting bulkhead and paperboard from the right hand side using a guide block to keep the holes perfectly perpendicular to the wood. Transfer to a sheet of scrap 3/4” plywood, cut it to shape, drill the large holes for mounting the chainplate and the two small alignment holes. Drive two nails the same diameter as the alignment holes through the plywood template and install it from the right hand side onto the bulkhead. The pins will ensure the alignment is perfect. Clamp a backer board to the left side to prevent tear out and drill the chainplate holes using the plywood template to guide the bit straight. All you have to do now is dab a little filler in the alignment holes, paint, and install the chainplate!
I’m no expert but from what I can tell it is rock solid. There were almost no blisters on the hull when we first puller her out. There were a few but they were tiny. No signs of delamanation or anything like that so my guess is that it should be good for another few decades.
@@SailBros your no expert? Man you seem pretty professional to me, you've actually made me be more meticulous with my work! I'm up to episode 38, loving it
I've been watching you since you first pulled up to this floating wreck of a hull and you've come a long way. I am really enjoying you work and solve problems along with way. You are way more talented then your years that's for sure! If you're out there sailing the world and you need to make some extra money you could sell your brightwork skills. I'm not sure if it's the camera or what, but your woodwork varnishing looks amazing! I paid someone to do my boat and it didn't come out 1/10th as good as the job you did and my wood was in perfect condition. Your going to have something to really be proud of one day, hopefully you'll have it for a lifetime and pass it along to your kids! It's really coming out great! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! Thanks for the gift of enjoyment you've given me by posting these videos!
Thanks for the kind words! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I definitely enjoy varnishing so I can see myself making some side money that way for sure!
This is looking great!! What are you thinking of doing to the undersides of the shelves along the hull? It looks like you didn't paint them on purpose. Also, I'd just drill the chainplate holes from the right side. Through bolting is the only option, so it shouldn't matter what side the holes start on. You're doing a great job with this major restoration and I can't wait to see your boat next to a tropical island (with you hoisting a frosty one while lounging in the cockpit!).
I will probably be adding some fiberglass under there to strengthen the deck. I'm thinking we'll use some kind of headliner material to cover it after that. Thanks! That will definitely be an epic moment.
She's going to be a smart little boat when you finish! To get a smooth, shiny, brushless gloss a friend of mine would stand the pot of paint in hot boiled water and warm the paint.......I guess it increases its "runnyness" and the brush marks then flow out as it dries! Have a great Christmas. See you next year!
I also just used the Petit EZ Cabin Coat on my boat in platinum grey. I only had to use two coats but I primed first even though the directions said I didn't have to.
@@SailBros I only primed because the paint in my cabin was so messed up, it was in an uncured state. If you pressed against it, the paint would come off. After chemical stripping and sanding, I wanted to make sure what was left would be totally covered. I read the instructions like you did, it said two coats would cover it. After I finished my cabin, I think priming is probably necessary unless the paint is the same color and in good shape.
Brush strokes are signs of love that you don't see on mass production boats.😀
Actually some resistance in the hatch slide isnt a bad idea
You dont want thing sliding back and forth when you are in a seaway
Its a lot easier watching you paint the hull inside than doing it myself :)
have a good one
Really liked the looky loos. Such a nice touch. Great work on the boat!
Looks really good. We are all looky loos.
I think I would drill through from the other side and fasten with stainless bolts and washers. Could use a regular nut and or cap nut. I think it would be stronger.
Great progress, guys. I bet you have lots of looky-loos. Happy holidays from Vancouver.
Has to be a way to drill those from that confined space. Even if you have to use a smaller bit to just get the hole through then you can open it up from the other side. Love watching you DIY guys figure this stuff out. Do you guys follow "Sail Life" ? Mads runs into this stuff all the time.
Been following him from almost the beginning!
@@SailBros Ah ok that explains your love for "peel ply" :)
9:51 can you drill from the right of that support and use nuts and bolts to secure the chain plate?
Thats what i was thinking , pilot hole then increase in sizes
Use a right angle air die grinder with 1/4 Colette to hold the drill bit , very small tool and will fit in that space NP , you may have to buy step drills to the size you need , but they are available in 1/4 inch shanks. Best Regards J
The paint sure makes a difference. Too bad you have ruin that great engine access by building an interior around it.
Ha. yeah I know
Zac & Ben,
Truly appreciate your work and progress!! The paint and varnish work look professional!
Fair winds!
Doug
Just drill the holes through the back, make a template of chainplate and use it to mark your holes through the back. Boat is looking SWEET. Nothing looks better than gloss white, LOVE IT‼️👍👍⛵️ Vinny 🇺🇸
This series of videos were the first ones I followed great job your doing but no enthusiasm at all my only complaint cheer up guys soon you'll be sailing her cheers
Awesome work SailBros just a question for you could you Spray that water base Paint? I am trying to learn as much I can. Before I take on a restore a Sailboat for when Retirement begains for me. Love to watch all you Awesome people working on there Dream of Sailboat restore God Bless you two Bros
First! She’s really looking good bros. Thanks for sharing.
Your over thinking the drilling, make a paper template and use it to drill from the other side.
Good work and story! I just came across your channel, thank you for sharing your project! 🙂
Dude use butal tape for all your hardware mounted on your boat.
Should have attached the chain plates on the out side of the hull.
Go to Harbor Freight for right angle drill
Please varnish the bulkheads
Dang that wood looks nice!! So did you epoxy under the varnish? I’ve not seen people do that before... where’d you learn that?
Thanks! I've seen a few other people recommend it. Mainly Boatworkstoday. Check his channel out if you haven't already.
Really enjoying the videos...you do amazing work.
Do you guys live in San Leon?! Have you eaten at Gilhooley’s? My favorite any time I’m out there.
We're not too far from there. I've been once. Its a cool spot!
Drill through from the right to the left and re-fill about half from the right side with epoxy thickened with fiber glass?
Coming in nicely. I would have used flocoat in the lower sections of the hull. It’s coming along nicely.👍🎄Merry Christmas.
Seems like you should be able to drill from the other side just measure how far the chainplate sticks up through the deck, then take that measurement and apply the adjusted measurement to the other side and drill through.
Yeah that would probably work. I was just worried about hole alignment. If I drill at different angles accidentally the holes on the chainplate wont line up very well.
Looking so nice. Paint and varnish simply makes the difference!
Why not paint the inside with epoxy paint?
When it comes to the drilling for the chainplates, you could transport the spot you choose for the hole, from one side to the other using a piece of metal wire, a loop of wire, with the ends pointing inwards against each other. Just an idea :)
Interesting idea! I did some priming with epoxy paint but the fumes were out of control down in the boat so I had to stop.
You guys are doing a fantastic job!!! She's looking great!
Been following since you first started glad to see you are moving forward with the retrofit
WOW that white paint in the cabin share makes the place look cheery. And the varnish looks fabulous. Merry Christmas.
Yaay SailBros. It's like a Christmas present.
Dang snazzy fellas! I remember the first few episodes when she was in rough shape. Looks way better! Merry Christmas!
You guys are making awesome progress!!! I look forward to seeing everyone video.
She's really looking sweet, your guys are doing a great job, thank you for sharing. Happy Holidays and Happy New Year.
Another great episode. Happy Christmas to you.
Wow what a difference the paint and varnish makes. Also, really enjoyed the field trip! I am always fascinated on how fabricating of parts are done. So Thank You so much for that!
Good call not painting the bulkheads. The wood will keep it from looking like a McGreggor inside!
I was really looking forward to seeing the finished companionway cover. Making me wait for the next episode. It's looking really good! Interior looks great!! We can hear the satisfaction in your voice, too. Well done!
Man it’s looking great ........can’t wait to see it sailing, nice job
I've modified a tiny right angle pneumatic die grinder to take a drill chuck, even had to cut the drill bit short from the back side to get into tight spaces. Better yet, mark you holes with a center punch on the narrow side and transfer the holes to the other side using a common point of reference. I know how difficult this is on a boat where there are practically no right angles and nothing is really symmetrical, but it can be done.
Measure up and make a template for the bottom half of the chainplate lose fit the chainplate and measure round from the base. Won't matter if you are out by a couple of mm. Boats looking good👍
Looking good when your done the next ones to have to redo it next will be your grandchildren,I see the makings of longevity, keep it up boys looking really good teak just pops our nice.
What a difference a bit of paint and varnish make. Looking great
I really appreciate the work that you have put into the boat and videos!
Great one! Merry Christmas! Hope it is ready for the spring!
Im asuming its because the chainplate comes though on that side , if so just paper template it and should line up no problem the opposite side , then easy drilling , boats coming on great , all the efforts paying off
Looking more ship-shape every day !
Great job. It is really starting to come together.
:)
That chainplate you were talking about at 10:05 should be through bolted with SS bolts and nuts. it should also have a backing plate for extra strength.
I'll be through bolting and using large fender washers. Thanks for the comment!
@@SailBrosIt does solve the problem of drilling. Now you can drill from the other side. The reason I said backing plate is it is more surface area, and it is a standard practice on a lot of boats. If you are not going to cross oceans then the washers should work.
Per drilling holes for the chain plates... I’m not understanding why you can’t clamp a backer board to prevent tear out on the other side and drill through from the right. Is it hole alignment that you’re worried about?
Yeah, I'm worried about the holes not lining up. If I drilled straight holes in a thick chunk of wood on a drillpress and used that as a jig I probably wouldn't have any problems. We'll see.
SailBros, perhaps make a stiff paperboard template, cut it to the shape and tape it to the chain plate side of the mounting bulkhead. Position the chainplate and pencil the chain plate holes onto the paper. Drill two very small alignment holes through the mounting bulkhead and paperboard from the right hand side using a guide block to keep the holes perfectly perpendicular to the wood. Transfer to a sheet of scrap 3/4” plywood, cut it to shape, drill the large holes for mounting the chainplate and the two small alignment holes. Drive two nails the same diameter as the alignment holes through the plywood template and install it from the right hand side onto the bulkhead. The pins will ensure the alignment is perfect. Clamp a backer board to the left side to prevent tear out and drill the chainplate holes using the plywood template to guide the bit straight. All you have to do now is dab a little filler in the alignment holes, paint, and install the chainplate!
Great vid bro, boats looking good.
Really starting to come together!
I'd be a looky loo myself.
Or jumping out with a cold 6 pack, asking if there was anything I could do to help...
U guys are amazing please keep it up
My question: how do you know the integrity of the hull is good?
I’m no expert but from what I can tell it is rock solid. There were almost no blisters on the hull when we first puller her out. There were a few but they were tiny. No signs of delamanation or anything like that so my guess is that it should be good for another few decades.
@@SailBros your no expert? Man you seem pretty professional to me, you've actually made me be more meticulous with my work! I'm up to episode 38, loving it
Merry Christmas guys, the cabin coat really brightens up the salon! Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan.
Thanks!
Do you use butyl tape
I will be using to bed deck hardware eventually.
Rockin' it out. Nice work
Yes more vids from sail bros
I've been watching you since you first pulled up to this floating wreck of a hull and you've come a long way. I am really enjoying you work and solve problems along with way. You are way more talented then your years that's for sure! If you're out there sailing the world and you need to make some extra money you could sell your brightwork skills. I'm not sure if it's the camera or what, but your woodwork varnishing looks amazing! I paid someone to do my boat and it didn't come out 1/10th as good as the job you did and my wood was in perfect condition. Your going to have something to really be proud of one day, hopefully you'll have it for a lifetime and pass it along to your kids! It's really coming out great! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! Thanks for the gift of enjoyment you've given me by posting these videos!
Thanks for the kind words! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I definitely enjoy varnishing so I can see myself making some side money that way for sure!
Good Work as always. Looks Great. Merry Christmas to you guys.
A nice work as always bro . Thanks for sharing the video , Merry Christmas to all .⚓🎄⚓
This is looking great!! What are you thinking of doing to the undersides of the shelves along the hull? It looks like you didn't paint them on purpose. Also, I'd just drill the chainplate holes from the right side. Through bolting is the only option, so it shouldn't matter what side the holes start on. You're doing a great job with this major restoration and I can't wait to see your boat next to a tropical island (with you hoisting a frosty one while lounging in the cockpit!).
I will probably be adding some fiberglass under there to strengthen the deck. I'm thinking we'll use some kind of headliner material to cover it after that. Thanks! That will definitely be an epic moment.
She's going to be a smart little boat when you finish! To get a smooth, shiny, brushless gloss a friend of mine would stand the pot of paint in hot boiled water and warm the paint.......I guess it increases its "runnyness" and the brush marks then flow out as it dries! Have a great Christmas. See you next year!
I may have to give that a try!
instead of cutting into a bulkhead to drill for the chainplate, can't you drill from the other side?
I'm just worried about the holes not lining up. If I make a jig to drill through from the right side it should work fine.
Lookin' good!
Great Work
I also just used the Petit EZ Cabin Coat on my boat in platinum grey. I only had to use two coats but I primed first even though the directions said I didn't have to.
I should have primed first. Oh well its done!
@@SailBros I only primed because the paint in my cabin was so messed up, it was in an uncured state. If you pressed against it, the paint would come off. After chemical stripping and sanding, I wanted to make sure what was left would be totally covered. I read the instructions like you did, it said two coats would cover it. After I finished my cabin, I think priming is probably necessary unless the paint is the same color and in good shape.