You're doing a lot of great work, but I have a suggestion - when you drill a hole in any wood on your boat, drill is larger than you require, then epoxy it closed, after it sets hard, re-drill it the size you need. Using this method, you protect the wood from absorbing water in the future since you're only driving the required size hold thru epoxy. Neat trick I learned from someone.
Great video, but I noticed you used 3M 5200 for bedding thru hulls. 5200 is Forever. You may want to consider using 3M 4200 on the remaining thru hulls. That way if you ever get a leak or blow out a thru hull in a lightning strike you can rebed without glass work. Just my two cents. Happy New Year. Nick.
Slow boat or not, but I would have installed that engine cooling intake facing forward. But not a big deal... If you want those chain plates to be super strong, dont use washers. Cut a SS flat bar for counter part.
Would be beneficial for you to put in zerk fittings on your through hole then grease them. This way the wont freeze up over time. Also you could drill the other through holes a little bit bigger then fill with epoxy then drill proper size. This will protect the wood if water ever happened to get to it.
I was thinking the same thing with regards to the holes and also the 5200. My guess is that these repairs will last longer than their interest in keeping this boat. It isn't going to cross any oceans. Will likely be covered and out of the water in the winter months. I think at this point the boys are saying "good enough". :)
Idk if you noticed but the teak backing blocks were in perfect shape after 50 years with only sealant. Yes water could potentially get to it and start to rot it out but is it really that big of a job to replace a backing pad 20 years down the road? I used 5200 because that IS what you use below the waterline. Yes it will be hard to remove but my guess is that it will be a long time from now. At some point you do have to make the decision to just get it done. That being said, I would never take shortcuts that would potentially risk safety. Why do you think that this boat will never cross oceans? Many of them have.
For those front hatch slides, use lanolin grease (every boat owner should have some of this !) or Fluid Film. Both are very slippery and very corrosion resistant.
Shouldn't the intake scoop be the other way around (opening facing forward) so when you go forward in the water the water will actually scoop up water instead? I set mine like that and it works like a charm. The pump should get an easier job. Keep up the awsome job so far. (Fan from Sweden)
I also heard you say you got 4 out of 8 through holes in. why so many? what are they all for? or is this the total amount also counting the one that are above the waterline. (breather hole for the septs tank and the drain for the sinks and so on?) //Olof
Any hose attached to a through hull fitting has the potential to: come off; fracture; split; or fail. I would put a stop valve on every through hull if this were my boat. That will enable you to close the hole for any reason at all and save your boat from sinking!
Danger danger your scoop will not work rite you will have over heating issues it needs to be in line with the hull going forward it will push water in to the striner thru hull. The way it's now won't work as a scoop and you will have over heating issues. I have been a engineer and worked on many of boats. Just a heads up happy new year
This seems to be a topic of much debate. From what I have found, for slow speed boats it doesn’t really matter. A lot of people recommend facing the slotted end aft so that you are not forcing water into the intake which could potentially overpower the impeller.
@@SailBros Almost everything on a boat 'seems to be a topic of much debate', you installed it correctly. Most small, (slow) sailing yachts don't have a scoop at all, a simple 1 1/2" t-hull coupled with an easily clearable strainer will suffice. You may have overbought with that scoop/strainer as anything caught by it will have to be cleared by going overboard, instead of opening the inboard strainer and removing the offending object. I have had a bread wrapper caught in one of those things and had to go overboard to clear it as it was partially sucked in, but not far enough to grab it from the inside and pull it through. With a simple round hole, it would have been much easier to clear it, as it would have made it farther into the t-hull.
@@SailBros true on the scoop is used a lot on power boats. But having it in line with the hull helps. The other headache come when those pesky bottom dwelling devils make a home in side the the scoop. This is why you want as much flow as possible thru that device. There is many thought on on underwater dynamics and flow. I have worked on boats that the top speed is 6 knots. I'm just saying as a sailor and a tall ship engineer save yourself some headaches place it fore to aft or just get rid of it and put a standard thru hull in with a good strainer.
Chainplates, no I dont think doubling the washers does anything worthwhile. Given you probably wont revisit this in your lifetime, if you had concerns you could upsize the fasteners to 1/4", those are the things that make a difference Consider too that stainless is roughly twice as strong as ordinary mild steel. anywho, boats looking good guys, she will be pretty when all this is done best for the New Year and have a good one ...
i'll be honest. when i saw that video, a few years ago, of you looking at that engine and thinking about getting that engine out, i thought to myself, "...this guy will probably get the boat gutted and then realize how much work he's got himself into and give up..." but i have to admit i was wrong. you'll "git'er done', i have little doubt. bravo!
SailBros on Fire!!! More progress I past few months than in first 3 years! Lube your hinge with light Grease. Don't rely on Teflon Tape to keep you afloat. Who's the Older Fellow, your Dad? You should introduce him. Talk about your launch date and where you plan to go? How much did you pay for the Boat? How much has it cost you? Looks excellent, nice job Guys - keep up the great work!
Been watching since the beginning. Always loved your editing, filming angles and methods of tackling a build issue. Keep it up guys... it’s far easier to lose momentum and focus then it is to carry on. So happy to see more videos. Happy new year from Victoria, BC, Canada.
You should not have a scoop thru hull on your engine intake if you have a water cooled exhaust. When sailing water being pushed in thru the scoop can pass thru the water pump and fill up the exhaust/muffler then backup into the engine hydro locking the engine. Another situation where this will happen is when you are sailing in a following sea and the exhaust outlet goes thru the transom.Waves coming from behind will enter the exhaust and work there way into the engine. This is why you see rubber flaps on the stern of many boats.
Go to a tattoo parlor immediately. Have the following tattooed on both forearms: "When sailing into a moderate sea be sure to close and secure the forward hatch!"
That hatch looks good and the boat is coming along well. Love the awkward laughter moments, I'd be like that all the time making video with my friend. Every time we try she's pulling faces at me. Have a great new year 🕺
Really only need a sealant and not an adhesive on the through hull. 5200 does the job but will be a bitch for the next guy to remove some day. A flexible polysulfide like Life Calk just as well. Boat is looking great. Agree on the scoop strainer. It should definitely be redone facing forward. That will be a good video on removing cured 5200!
Unfortunately it is most widely used, accepted, & trusted for all the wrong reasons. 5200 is an adhesive, not a sealant (a massively powerful adhesive). You probably won't experience the pain in the time that you own this boat, but at some point in the distant future those bronze thru-hulls will need to be replaced. When that happens those thru hulls will need to be sawn or ground out. Any attempt to hammer or pry them loose will actually rip away laminate before the adhesive gives it up. 3M 4200 or 4000 is a better choice. Sika has numerous formulas for underwater sealing as well. I actually prefer Butyl tape, even underwater. Your boat, your choice... but anyone who has ever done serious boat work knows 5200 is constantly used where it shouldn't be and causes damage (extra expense $$$) down the road. The only place you should ever really consider using 5200 is the hull to keel joint.
@@SteelDoesMyWill Agree. I understand 5200 to be a structural adhesive and not a sealant. It's a 'once only' adhesive i.e. you will not be able to remove /replace the through-hulls without having to destroy/damage something attached to the 5200.
I watched this again. I was working on my boat yesterday and today and I noticed my chainplates are bonded to my keel and my thru hulls and my grounding buss on for my DC system. Did you bond your thru-hulls/seacocks and chainplates to the keel?
I can't bond things to my keel because it is an encapsulated keel. You must have an external keel and your chainplates and thruhulls are bonded to it for lighting protection.
Varnish work looks like a million bucks. Way to go. How about redoing your toe rail before finalizing the chainplates so you don’t have to work around them?
Thanks! I don’t think it will be too hard to sand and varnish around them. I also want to wait until I have the new rubrail installed that way I can finish them both together. Trying to get the deck sealed up so I can take the boat outside and work on the hull.
Change your stern gland for one of the volvo rubber glands and you won't have problems with dripping: www.pbo.co.uk/gear/dripless-shaft-seals-pbo-buyers-guide-17357 If you do put the volvo drive seal in, make sure to lubricate it and burp it (bleed the air out) once the boat is in the water.
I looked into this but there isn’t enough clearance. I would have to get a longer prop shaft made and move the engine forward. Maybe a future upgrade. Thanks
a design flaw why the drain thru hulls are below waterline? under power it's not possible to see water pumping-out and it's another opportunity for water to seep in
The engine exhaust is above the waterline. I don’t love the idea that the drains are below the waterline but that’s the way she was designed. I looked into moving them but the cockpit floor is not high enough above the waterline to drain above.
Love how you chose to keep the patina on the hatch sliders! It looks amazing with the new varnish work. Great style choice- looking forward to seeing more progress! Keep up the good work!
Love watching your videos as I grew up in the area (Dickinson) but moved away in the early '80's. Brings back memories watching you guys travel around, especially last week's video when you were in San Leon. My uncle shrimped the bay back in the '60's and '70's from there. I too was wondering if you had the strainer reversed for optimum intake flow, but I'm guessing that orientation was suggested by the manufacturer? At any rate, Happy New Year to both of you and your family!
Probably not in the order of work you had planned, but putting some paint on the exterior and finishing the exterior teak will really lift your spirits ! Also painting forward compartment will help a lot ! Keep up the good work !
Looking really good, great progress. I'm at the same spot you are on my boat. I just cut new gaskets for the chain plate covers and cleaned the old goop off of them. I'm hoping to finish up the bulkheads between the salon and v-berth soon.
I am glad the air right angle worked for you, Question ; can you flip the bracket on the leg for the hatch 180 deg so that you wont need the dacron spacer ? I think you may have just installed it front to back from the original attachment in the hatch lid ? Best regards John
I'm wondering if it's a good idea to lightly "pre-tension" the chain plates, so that if they do slip, they will be at their max travel with the bolt holes?
swap that hardware around on that hatch,There is a right way just got to find it.Either upside down or backward's?It worked before? It should be a puzzle or it would not be a boat,lol.
I like that. Everything does seem to be a puzzle. I tried every possible combo and orientation and couldn’t get it to work. It worked before so I have know idea what the deal is.
Butal Tape is the best water proofing for beding any deck hardware. It never gets hard, cracks or shrinks.
You're doing a lot of great work, but I have a suggestion - when you drill a hole in any wood on your boat, drill is larger than you require, then epoxy it closed, after it sets hard, re-drill it the size you need. Using this method, you protect the wood from absorbing water in the future since you're only driving the required size hold thru epoxy. Neat trick I learned from someone.
Amazing vids
Great video, but I noticed you used 3M 5200 for bedding thru hulls.
5200 is Forever.
You may want to consider using 3M 4200 on the remaining thru hulls.
That way if you ever get a leak or blow out a thru hull in a lightning strike you can rebed without glass work.
Just my two cents.
Happy New Year.
Nick.
Slow boat or not, but I would have installed that engine cooling intake facing forward. But not a big deal...
If you want those chain plates to be super strong, dont use washers. Cut a SS flat bar for counter part.
Would be beneficial for you to put in zerk fittings on your through hole then grease them. This way the wont freeze up over time. Also you could drill the other through holes a little bit bigger then fill with epoxy then drill proper size. This will protect the wood if water ever happened to get to it.
I was thinking the same thing with regards to the holes and also the 5200. My guess is that these repairs will last longer than their interest in keeping this boat. It isn't going to cross any oceans. Will likely be covered and out of the water in the winter months. I think at this point the boys are saying "good enough". :)
Idk if you noticed but the teak backing blocks were in perfect shape after 50 years with only sealant. Yes water could potentially get to it and start to rot it out but is it really that big of a job to replace a backing pad 20 years down the road? I used 5200 because that IS what you use below the waterline. Yes it will be hard to remove but my guess is that it will be a long time from now. At some point you do have to make the decision to just get it done. That being said, I would never take shortcuts that would potentially risk safety. Why do you think that this boat will never cross oceans? Many of them have.
@@SailBros A good friend crossed oceans in a 24 foot boat...with his girlfriend.
For those front hatch slides, use lanolin grease (every boat owner should have some of this !) or Fluid Film. Both are very slippery and very corrosion resistant.
Shouldn't the intake scoop be the other way around (opening facing forward) so when you go forward in the water the water will actually scoop up water instead? I set mine like that and it works like a charm.
The pump should get an easier job.
Keep up the awsome job so far. (Fan from Sweden)
I also heard you say you got 4 out of 8 through holes in. why so many? what are they all for? or is this the total amount also counting the one that are above the waterline. (breather hole for the septs tank and the drain for the sinks and so on?)
//Olof
Any hose attached to a through hull fitting has the potential to: come off; fracture; split; or fail. I would put a stop valve on every through hull if this were my boat. That will enable you to close the hole for any reason at all and save your boat from sinking!
I aggree, every through hull must have a stop valve.
They did put valves in at 14:16.
@@jerryf609 well that is good then
Danger danger your scoop will not work rite you will have over heating issues it needs to be in line with the hull going forward it will push water in to the striner thru hull. The way it's now won't work as a scoop and you will have over heating issues. I have been a engineer and worked on many of boats. Just a heads up happy new year
This seems to be a topic of much debate. From what I have found, for slow speed boats it doesn’t really matter. A lot of people recommend facing the slotted end aft so that you are not forcing water into the intake which could potentially overpower the impeller.
@@SailBros Right. For slow boats it does not matter and it's probably the way it was.
@@SailBros Almost everything on a boat 'seems to be a topic of much debate', you installed it correctly.
Most small, (slow) sailing yachts don't have a scoop at all, a simple 1 1/2" t-hull coupled with an easily clearable strainer will suffice.
You may have overbought with that scoop/strainer as anything caught by it will have to be cleared by going overboard, instead of opening the inboard strainer and removing the offending object.
I have had a bread wrapper caught in one of those things and had to go overboard to clear it as it was partially sucked in, but not far enough to grab it from the inside and pull it through.
With a simple round hole, it would have been much easier to clear it, as it would have made it farther into the t-hull.
@@SailBros Think of it this way...if the hose fell off with the valve open and the boat doing 6 knots do you think the boat would not flood?
@@SailBros true on the scoop is used a lot on power boats. But having it in line with the hull helps. The other headache come when those pesky bottom dwelling devils make a home in side the the scoop. This is why you want as much flow as possible thru that device. There is many thought on on underwater dynamics and flow. I have worked on boats that the top speed is 6 knots. I'm just saying as a sailor and a tall ship engineer save yourself some headaches place it fore to aft or just get rid of it and put a standard thru hull in with a good strainer.
I think this boat is going to be even more glorious than when she was new. Ya'll are making great progress.
Chainplates, no I dont think doubling the washers does anything worthwhile.
Given you probably wont revisit this in your lifetime, if you had concerns you could upsize the fasteners to 1/4", those are the things that make a difference
Consider too that stainless is roughly twice as strong as ordinary mild steel.
anywho, boats looking good guys, she will be pretty when all this is done
best for the New Year and
have a good one ...
The bolts are 5/16”. I meant 316 grade stainless but it does sound like I said 3/16. Happy New Years!
You guys do good stuff! Happy new year..
Happy new year fellas. Still lovin’ that hatch!
Zac & Ben,
As always epic work!!! She's looking amazing!! Wonder varnish work I mean perfect!!
Fair Winds,
Doug
to drill the holes for the chian plate bolts, get a "right angled" electrician's drill head...
I am impressed, shes looking closer and closer to being a fine lil yacht again.
i'll be honest. when i saw that video, a few years ago, of you looking at that engine and thinking about getting that engine out, i thought to myself, "...this guy will probably get the boat gutted and then realize how much work he's got himself into and give up..." but i have to admit i was wrong. you'll "git'er done', i have little doubt. bravo!
I've been following your video's since last year, I can't wait to see you start sailing. What took you so long?
SailBros on Fire!!! More progress I past few months than in first 3 years! Lube your hinge with light Grease. Don't rely on Teflon Tape to keep you afloat. Who's the Older Fellow, your Dad? You should introduce him. Talk about your launch date and where you plan to go? How much did you pay for the Boat? How much has it cost you? Looks excellent, nice job Guys - keep up the great work!
That’s my dad. I think we will do a video like that soon. Thanks!
Been watching since the beginning. Always loved your editing, filming angles and methods of tackling a build issue. Keep it up guys... it’s far easier to lose momentum and focus then it is to carry on. So happy to see more videos. Happy new year from Victoria, BC, Canada.
You should not have a scoop thru hull on your engine intake if you have a water cooled exhaust. When sailing water being pushed in thru the scoop can pass thru the water pump and fill up the exhaust/muffler then backup into the engine hydro locking the engine. Another situation where this will happen is when you are sailing in a following sea and the exhaust outlet goes thru the transom.Waves coming from behind will enter the exhaust and work there way into the engine. This is why you see rubber flaps on the stern of many boats.
Nice,very nice love how the old hatch cover turned out, well done fella's keep up the great work, she'll be floating in no time !
Your video skills are getting so much better! Keep up the great work!
Go to a tattoo parlor immediately. Have the following tattooed on both forearms: "When sailing into a moderate sea be sure to close and secure the forward hatch!"
That hatch looks good and the boat is coming along well. Love the awkward laughter moments, I'd be like that all the time making video with my friend. Every time we try she's pulling faces at me. Have a great new year 🕺
I agree with the below comment. The engine water intake is backwards.
intake scoop facing the wrong way, will create a air pocket, made to face forward,
She's coming along nicely guys. Keep up the good work.
Some cap nuts on the chain plate bolts might secure those bolts a little more?
Man its been a long long rebuild. Looking forward to see the sails hoisted.
are those the original drain locations if so im not sure how well they will work if they are under the water line
Yes they are original. I’m just going to trust that George Newell knew what he was doing when he designed the boat. Thanks for watching!
I'm just not gonna say anything about the 5200... smh....
Really only need a sealant and not an adhesive on the through hull. 5200 does the job but will be a bitch for the next guy to remove some day. A flexible polysulfide like Life Calk just as well. Boat is looking great. Agree on the scoop strainer. It should definitely be redone facing forward. That will be a good video on removing cured 5200!
Another hot topic. I chose 5200 because it is the most widely used, accepted, and trusted sealant for below the waterline use. Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately it is most widely used, accepted, & trusted for all the wrong reasons. 5200 is an adhesive, not a sealant (a massively powerful adhesive). You probably won't experience the pain in the time that you own this boat, but at some point in the distant future those bronze thru-hulls will need to be replaced. When that happens those thru hulls will need to be sawn or ground out. Any attempt to hammer or pry them loose will actually rip away laminate before the adhesive gives it up. 3M 4200 or 4000 is a better choice. Sika has numerous formulas for underwater sealing as well. I actually prefer Butyl tape, even underwater. Your boat, your choice... but anyone who has ever done serious boat work knows 5200 is constantly used where it shouldn't be and causes damage (extra expense $$$) down the road. The only place you should ever really consider using 5200 is the hull to keel joint.
@@SteelDoesMyWill Agree. I understand 5200 to be a structural adhesive and not a sealant. It's a 'once only' adhesive i.e. you will not be able to remove /replace the through-hulls without having to destroy/damage something attached to the 5200.
Dude needs to use real seacocks and not those inadequate valves.
On your propeller shaft...the SMALLER nut goes on first, then the larger nut.
Huh.. I had no idea. Thanks!
Wow you guys have come a long way!
I watched this again. I was working on my boat yesterday and today and I noticed my chainplates are bonded to my keel and my thru hulls and my grounding buss on for my DC system. Did you bond your thru-hulls/seacocks and chainplates to the keel?
I can't bond things to my keel because it is an encapsulated keel. You must have an external keel and your chainplates and thruhulls are bonded to it for lighting protection.
Ah yes, 3M 5200, the devils toothpaste! I don’t know who came up with the expression but I love to pass it on.
That is a good one
Gasket for hatches ?
Varnish work looks like a million bucks. Way to go. How about redoing your toe rail before finalizing the chainplates so you don’t have to work around them?
Thanks! I don’t think it will be too hard to sand and varnish around them. I also want to wait until I have the new rubrail installed that way I can finish them both together. Trying to get the deck sealed up so I can take the boat outside and work on the hull.
Completely crazy how many holes you go in your hull! Sees extra for a boat this size!
I know it seems like a lot. They are all needed though
Change your stern gland for one of the volvo rubber glands and you won't have problems with dripping: www.pbo.co.uk/gear/dripless-shaft-seals-pbo-buyers-guide-17357 If you do put the volvo drive seal in, make sure to lubricate it and burp it (bleed the air out) once the boat is in the water.
I looked into this but there isn’t enough clearance. I would have to get a longer prop shaft made and move the engine forward. Maybe a future upgrade. Thanks
Happy new year guys
You put the motor water thur hull backwards the strainer faces to the bow of the boat the motor will over heat
Dana Coyle No it won't overheat.
That's the proper way to install it on a slow moving boat.
a design flaw why the drain thru hulls are below waterline? under power it's not possible to see water pumping-out and it's another opportunity for water to seep in
The engine exhaust is above the waterline. I don’t love the idea that the drains are below the waterline but that’s the way she was designed. I looked into moving them but the cockpit floor is not high enough above the waterline to drain above.
@@SailBros thanks for the explanation - she's looking sexy!
Love how you chose to keep the patina on the hatch sliders! It looks amazing with the new varnish work. Great style choice- looking forward to seeing more progress! Keep up the good work!
Did you have a backing plate under those thru hulls or are they just tightened to the hull?
Yes. I reused the original teak backing blocks. They’re about 1” thick
Looking nice!
3 years and looking good. Glad you’ve stuck with it. You’ll have a lifetime of pleasure with your baby. 👍👍👍
Love watching your videos as I grew up in the area (Dickinson) but moved away in the early '80's. Brings back memories watching you guys travel around, especially last week's video when you were in San Leon. My uncle shrimped the bay back in the '60's and '70's from there.
I too was wondering if you had the strainer reversed for optimum intake flow, but I'm guessing that orientation was suggested by the manufacturer? At any rate, Happy New Year to both of you and your family!
Happy New Years! Sail Bros. Looking forward to seeing what you get accomplished in 2019! Keep up the good work and videos.
Probably not in the order of work you had planned, but putting some paint on the exterior and finishing the exterior teak will really lift your spirits ! Also painting forward compartment will help a lot ! Keep up the good work !
Looking really good, great progress. I'm at the same spot you are on my boat. I just cut new gaskets for the chain plate covers and cleaned the old goop off of them. I'm hoping to finish up the bulkheads between the salon and v-berth soon.
Good to see you guys next in 2019 , Happy New year . Awesome jobs. ⛵⚓🎄🎉⚓⛵
Freshly varnished wood trim....gets me every time. Love your vids bro(s).
Great video, as I've come to expect and look forward to. The final shot with the beer toss and pop was a nice touch! Happy New Year!
That hatch cover looks super old school! I like it! Happy New Years guys!
It’s looking fantastic, keep it up guys,really good job
I am glad the air right angle worked for you, Question ; can you flip the bracket on the leg for the hatch 180 deg so that you wont need the dacron spacer ? I think you may have just installed it front to back from the original attachment in the hatch lid ?
Best regards John
:)
You are making sound progress and could be sailing that boat in June 2019👍
Very cool...can't wait to see you float her again! The varnished wood looks so nice.
Man y'all have been on a roll. Thanks so much for posting.
Great progress. Happy New Year. Looking forward to seeing what's next.
Nice work and very interesting
Happy New Year
Cheers
Well done guys excellent work. Is 2019 the big splash ??? Happy new year from 🏴🍾
Yes!
getting closer! can't believe it has been 3 years!
nice work guys. happy new year. Bryan
You guys are doing a great job.
If your head ever plugs up you will know for sure say to yourself... "Bligh me.. Iv'e got Arrrrrrgh in me through hole".
Lol
Another great video! Happy New Years! Was that your dad helping with the boat?
Yep! He actually helps out pretty often off screen. I think he just wants his shop back though!
It's looking fantastic.
I'm wondering if it's a good idea to lightly "pre-tension" the chain plates, so that if they do slip, they will be at their max travel with the bolt holes?
I’m not sure. I did lightly tighten and then I tapped them up with a hammer. There wasn’t much movement.
Happy new year to you too
More more more
swap that hardware around on that hatch,There is a right way just got to find it.Either upside down or backward's?It worked before? It should be a puzzle or it would not be a boat,lol.
I like that. Everything does seem to be a puzzle. I tried every possible combo and orientation and couldn’t get it to work. It worked before so I have know idea what the deal is.