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Hi Jonathan - great video! A couple comments from an HVAC Engineer who designs DC systems. Great info but around 2:00 you mention that you should run as large as pipe as you can... Not always true and it can be unsafe to run too large of pipe. Pipe should be sized to keep ~4000 FPM (air speed) in your lines and if your pipe is too large your speed will drop below this. I have a video that teaches how to calculate this. Also, I recommend running that 6" line of yours right to the tool. Flip your flex hose from 4" to 6" and you will see a huge difference. That 4" flex line introduces the same amount of static as your entire 6" run. Love your channel and thanks for everything!
Should you put a blast gate at the start of each branch of the system to shut it off as close to the main line as possible or will that make any difference as long as the blast gate is shut off at the end of the unused line?
Fellow HVAC engineer, can confirm everything above. ASHRAE recommends upwards of 4,500 fpm for heavier/larger chunks. Larger ductwork will provide more air volume (CFM), but at a lower air velocity the particulates (dust) will fall out of the airstream and eventually clog up inside of the ductwork.
@@scottmiskin4858 From strictly an HVAC perspective, keeping it as close to the main would be preferred, as any leaks in your ductwork between the main and the tool are taken out of the equation. If you have the blast gate all the way at the tool, the entire run is under negative pressure and the leaks in that branch will still add to the system. From a woodworker's perspective, seal up your ductwork as best as possible (as JKM did) and then put the blast gate where is it most convenient so you make sure to open/close them appropriately. It's not worth it to get a ladder to have to close the blast gate just to save a few CFM worth of leaks.
Good tips, thanks. A suggestion for anyone with a small relatively square shop that plans to put their dust collector in the corner. Don't stick to running everything N/S and E/W or perpendicular to the walls. Plan out your tool placement then draw a floor plan looking down on all your tools and where their dust ports are located. If you're planning to run across the ceiling think about going diagonally out of the corner with your main line. Then all your branches are 45s off the main, just locate the Wye in the correct spot so your branch line runs over to the drop point above the tool. You can save some fittings and reduce suction loss with this method.
This was great. I'd a thought a man of your caliber would have QC pipe through out your shop. But you saved a ton of money and did a fantastic job. Thanks.
I skipped PVC and went straight to metal ducting from The Blast Gate Co. Wish I would have spent a little more on the Nordfab style with the quick clamps. When I did mine 8 months ago, the metal ducting was actually cheaper and WAY easier to source than PVC. Plus, I was able to ground the ducting to my DC and then to a ground in the outlet so the system itself is all grounded. 3HP Oneida V3000. Also, The Blast Gate Co. metal gats are fantastic, I've never had an issue with them getting clogged or bent. I've spent a LOT of money and time on DC, starting with a shop vac and then 2.5" hose, and the 4" flex hose, and then finally a proper system. If you're serious about it, save your time and frustration - go straight to a 3-5HP system and metal ducting. It's SOOOO much more efficient and better.
PVC is smoother than metal ducting. This has been scientifically proven, but to your point, I’d bet my next paycheck that the transitions and joints are smoother with NordFab than with PVC, all other things equal.
Two more advantages of the Nordfab style: 1) I have moved my shop twice and was able to very easily disassemble and reuse all of the components. My current shop is the biggest dust collection system so far so I had to add components, but it was still very easy. 2) if you ever move and end up with parts that you can no longer use, or just give up and sell everything 🤯 the metal duct components can actually be sold and retain a surprising amount of their original value if not damaged.
Industrial hygiene practitioner here - larger diameter pipes can be good, but not always. It depends on the specifications of your fan. Different tools might require different air velocities, and static pressure variation can be detrimental to the overall airflow. But all in all, great tips. I can’t wait to design my own system.
Great video. Great delivery. No waffling. Loads of good ideas. Big thumbs up. About to order my 1st dust collector unit - a BFlux from Laguna. Fortunately, 110mm grey pipe is dirt cheap over here 😂 Thanks, man 😊
Katz, great info on dust collection. This is a topic that can't possibly cover everyone's situation or needs. Dust collection is the science of fluid dynamics that is fairly simple from a thousand-foot perspective, but in real world application becomes extremely complicated. Especially when working with vacuums, this limits the range of pressure to operate within to a theoretical MAX of -14.7PSI. I say theoretical because even high-pressure duct collectors or extractors will never come close to -14.7 PSI, most will only see -1 or -2 while some may go as high as -8 PSI or so. Anyway, as you said, one is always learning and it's great that you share yours with us. Thank you, All the Best, Chuck
Watching this vid and I'm at the part where you're showing the blast gates you made. Great design. Thin nylon washers instead of the much thicker metal ones you use would still provide ease of use and make the gates even more air tight.
Building out a shop right now, so very timely reminders in this. Definitely going to be building my own blast gates after seeing the issues with the prefab stuff. Thanks, Jonathan!
Instead of caulk and tape I put one layer of masking tape on the pipes before inserting them into the joints. Very tight fit but still adjustable and can easily be taken apart when needed.
Johnathan great video as always. You mentioned that you shouldn’t over pipe your system. Does using 4 inch for an upgraded harbor freight collector make sense?
Great video, thanks. The cheap and nasty plastic blast gates are actually quite good BUT you need to make a simple modification - cut the end off. If you cut off the part where the gate usually packs in sawdust then they self-clean effectively. The tiny space that is left does leak a bit of air when the machine is in use, but it does not affect the ability of the suction to work. The very small gap and it's flat shape really limit the amount of air leakage that can occur. I think in a pro shop like yours, they are simply too flimsy, but they are really good in light use in home shops. I used a mitre saw to modify mine and it worked with a 1.5HP single stage and still works with a 3HP cyclone similar to yours.
Actually, getting ready to tear my PVC ducking down today. I'm finishing up my shop that we will live in while our home is being built on our new property. So, for the wife's sake, you know I just had to put in a few "extras" to make it nice, for her of course... not that it gave me the opportunity to make a hell of a shop for myself or anything. 😂🤣 I had the exact problems you mentioned with leaking connections and plastic blast gates so I will be making your blast gates and planning my layout while we are waiting on the house so I'll be ready when the time comes to set everything back up. Thanks.
I just pulled all the tape off mine Caulk all my pvc joints after watching this. I could see piles of small saw dust on the joints and on my insulation by my joints. Hoping this works.
awesome video and the new shop looks great. Question.... how come you havent gone Ivac pro automated blast gates?? I have a small shop and they are the best thing since I always forgot to open the gate needed at the time.
I have these in my shop, they're awesome especially when coupled with the powerline sensor. They do have a down side in that you're limited in how many you can have operating a single DC.
Don't use "Duct Tape" (as in the brand, the stuff MacGyver uses, and the stuff that's actually not meant for duct work). Use aluminum tape which is actually meant to be used on duct work. It's more of a pain to get off but it's super sticky, won't break down, and won't leak.
I don’t have dust collection system (yet) but from reading and watching videos on the topic, I’ve been made to believe that the plastic pipe is not good because of static and it requires wiring to ground it. Is this a thing or not?
Thin walled PVC is for irrigation drainage in landscaping. If you tell the salesman thin walled PVC and they look @ you with a question mark on thier face. Specifying for landscaping can help. The difference between thin and thick is just how much pressure it can take.
An old engine builder once told me that the way to make the most power is to think like air. Same concept xD Dust collection is one thing but there will always be dust that doesnt get sucked up so what do you do for air filtration outside of collection? Not sure I asked that in an understandable way..haha.
I've made the mistake of putting caulk on the joint before assembly. There's so much surface area it grabs ahold almost as well as cement. If you make that mistake like I did a heat gun can help save the fittings.... even if you have to cut the pipe first, the pipe can be reused in shorter locations, but those fittings are so pricey
Awesome vid... I'm about to install a dust collector in my garage/shop. I've heard that you need to ground the PVC to prevent static, and possibly cause a fire. Can anyone confirm of deny this?
I am trying to keep my pipe as close to the wall as possible. How far off the wall would the pipe be when using your 4" blast gates wall-mounted? Thanks.
3m makes a thin plastic film duct tape for flexible ducts, you can really get a good stretch seal on the first few wraps and normal tension for a cover layer, it seals any kind of duct I have used it on, fantastic stuff.
There is chip collection and dust collection. The airflow requirements are different for each. They are dependent on many factors including the efficiency of the hood at the tool. Most home woodworker tools have at most a 4" outlet,. Running a 6" pipe all the way to the tool and then transitioning to a 4" greatly reduces the airflow. At the pressures generated by a blower air behaves more like a fluid that is it doesn't compress.Like water through a pipe the volume is limited by closing a valve-changing the cross sectional area of the piping.In addition to losing CFM ,you also lose FPM air flow speed as the air moves into the 6" duct. If it drops below about 3700FPM it may not be able to carry chips in vertical piping.Good chip collection does not necessarily mean good fine dust (the health hazard) collection.Bill Pentz is a great resource on dust collection.
I think plumber's putty would be a better choice, to seal the joints, before the tape. It would seal well and be easier to remove, if moving or remodeling.
I'm trying to design my system but am having trouble finding the thin wall pipe and fittings. Can you share the specs on the pipe you are using and where one might be able to get it. Thanks
I love the color-coded rope pulls! But (to me) it looks like you accidentally switched them. I think of green as equating to “go”, so i’d put it on the side that would open the gate if you pulled it (I.e., it’s ready for use). Yours, however, appear to be the reverse. I'm curious as to your logic. Thanks.
Tip: You can bend PVC pipes to any angle you want using heat. People usually do this by filling them with hot sand, or steam. Then bending them into shape with a simple mold. Not sure how easy it is to bend those big pipes though. But I think it is doable. I.e no more 45 degree angle... but perfect curves.
I purchased your digital file to import into my CNC software, when I bring it in, it is scaled to 0.5" x 0.5" with no way of knowing how big to scole the DXF files. Any help would be appreciated.
Your switcher set-up has a 90+ degree angle on the single line. I believe the single selector line should be elevated in order to have a straighter line to the selector.
Have a question. I bought the powertec 4inch dust seperater. Works ok. But when I use my drum sander, all the dust seems to be going right to my 3 micron dust bag. Nothing stays in the collector, not sure why. Any ideas
If you must use pvc pipe, dont use plumbing pipe, rather use electricians pvc pipe. It comes with big sweeping elbows (so they can pull cables). Sizes available up to 200mm or 8”.
Schedule 10 (pretty flimsy) or Schedule 20 PVC is likely what he was referring to. Standard plumbing PVC is Schedule 40. As the Schedule # increases, the wall thickness increases.
I just built a little 4” system into my work bench - learning from my last system I didn’t use glue I used Tape….. but didn’t caulk it, shit…… welp learn something new every time right lol
I am a woodworker with a day job as a hazmat professional. When the people in my profession see woodworkers flailing at a problem with ill fitting masks, it's just very concerning. Johnathan and the industrial hygiene professionals here are providing good advice to protect yourselves. Capture the dust at its source. Don the best mask available when you are servicing your collection system. Mitigating contaminants starts with engineering controls (dust extraction) and process management. The PPE (mask) is your last line of defense, and professionals know this from the collected data.
And you don't have issues with static electricity buildup in the pipes? In Europe it's strictly forbidden to use plastic for ducts. Needs to be metal or you have to run copper-tape along the full length to prevent dust explosions.
Dave -- Your regulators are borrowing rules from grain elevators and similar high-dust environments. The fine dust in grain elevators has been ignited by sparks from static electricity, so grounding of ducts is very necessary. Your regulators have chosen to apply those same rules to the dust collection systems in woodworking shops. But, does the same risk exist in similar, but different, environments? Several studies done in the United States say this risk of explosion does NOT exist in woodworking shops. There are at least a couple of reasons for this. First, wood dust isn't as combustible as grain dust. That may be counterintuitive, but fine flour-like dust particles ignite very easily and burn very rapidly when suspended in air. That's not as true for wood dust. Wood simply requires a higher temperature for ignition. Second, the volumes are very different in the two environments. A typical grain elevator will have a volume that is measured in hundreds, if not thousands, of cubic meters. The volume of a dust collector -- even those in a commercial wood shop -- isn't nearly that size. So, a grain elevator (as it is being loaded or unloaded) will have a lot of room above the top of the grain (or flour) to accumulate a lot of highly combustible dust. If an ignition were to occur, there could be plenty of suspended dust to fuel an explosion. That's simply not the case with a dust collector. My shop's dust collector has a volume of maybe two cubic meters. Even if an ignition were to occur, there wouldn't be enough fuel to do any damage. Yes, a dust explosion can be very powerful. But, there's a reason we don't use grain or wood dust to power cannon shells. It takes a lot of dust to produce an explosion of any real power. You simply cannot suspend that amount of dust in the air inside a wood shop's dust collection system. Bottom line: Obey the laws and regluations of your country. But, all countries have laws that are misguided.
@@josiahutah3712 So I need to hire someone with a wet finger to constantly discharge the ducts while I am working? Sounds like an expensive solution :)
Don’t learn about dust collection on UA-cam. Learn about static pressure differential and linear flow rate. Employ an engineering firm or industrial hygienist. Ignore anyone with design rules who is not a qualified expert.
You did not design the rocking blast gate, the original idea is at least 15 years old and mine are at least 12 years old. Any time you reduce the pipe diameter below 6" you may as well use that diameter all the way through because the flow is restricted to the small diameter. Modify the machine port to 6" and use a 15" impeller or bigger. There is more misinformation on the net surrounding dust collection than most subjects unfortunately. A major problem and a common mistake is to instal the Y's with the inlet leg pointing down, they should always be installed with the inlet horizontal because if the machine is not used for a while the dust drops into the downward pointing leg and blocks it. When the blast gate is next opened on that leg it will be pulled up as one plug and can cause further blackages. have been doing this stuff for a living and have a fair idea of what works so take my comments for what it they are worth to you.
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Hi Jonathan - great video! A couple comments from an HVAC Engineer who designs DC systems. Great info but around 2:00 you mention that you should run as large as pipe as you can... Not always true and it can be unsafe to run too large of pipe. Pipe should be sized to keep ~4000 FPM (air speed) in your lines and if your pipe is too large your speed will drop below this. I have a video that teaches how to calculate this. Also, I recommend running that 6" line of yours right to the tool. Flip your flex hose from 4" to 6" and you will see a huge difference. That 4" flex line introduces the same amount of static as your entire 6" run. Love your channel and thanks for everything!
Should you put a blast gate at the start of each branch of the system to shut it off as close to the main line as possible or will that make any difference as long as the blast gate is shut off at the end of the unused line?
Fellow HVAC engineer, can confirm everything above. ASHRAE recommends upwards of 4,500 fpm for heavier/larger chunks. Larger ductwork will provide more air volume (CFM), but at a lower air velocity the particulates (dust) will fall out of the airstream and eventually clog up inside of the ductwork.
@@scottmiskin4858 From strictly an HVAC perspective, keeping it as close to the main would be preferred, as any leaks in your ductwork between the main and the tool are taken out of the equation. If you have the blast gate all the way at the tool, the entire run is under negative pressure and the leaks in that branch will still add to the system.
From a woodworker's perspective, seal up your ductwork as best as possible (as JKM did) and then put the blast gate where is it most convenient so you make sure to open/close them appropriately. It's not worth it to get a ladder to have to close the blast gate just to save a few CFM worth of leaks.
Good tips, thanks. A suggestion for anyone with a small relatively square shop that plans to put their dust collector in the corner. Don't stick to running everything N/S and E/W or perpendicular to the walls. Plan out your tool placement then draw a floor plan looking down on all your tools and where their dust ports are located. If you're planning to run across the ceiling think about going diagonally out of the corner with your main line. Then all your branches are 45s off the main, just locate the Wye in the correct spot so your branch line runs over to the drop point above the tool. You can save some fittings and reduce suction loss with this method.
Very informative! The best explanation I‘be heard about dust collection “plumbing”.
This was great. I'd a thought a man of your caliber would have QC pipe through out your shop. But you saved a ton of money and did a fantastic job. Thanks.
I skipped PVC and went straight to metal ducting from The Blast Gate Co. Wish I would have spent a little more on the Nordfab style with the quick clamps. When I did mine 8 months ago, the metal ducting was actually cheaper and WAY easier to source than PVC. Plus, I was able to ground the ducting to my DC and then to a ground in the outlet so the system itself is all grounded. 3HP Oneida V3000. Also, The Blast Gate Co. metal gats are fantastic, I've never had an issue with them getting clogged or bent. I've spent a LOT of money and time on DC, starting with a shop vac and then 2.5" hose, and the 4" flex hose, and then finally a proper system.
If you're serious about it, save your time and frustration - go straight to a 3-5HP system and metal ducting. It's SOOOO much more efficient and better.
PVC is smoother than metal ducting. This has been scientifically proven, but to your point, I’d bet my next paycheck that the transitions and joints are smoother with NordFab than with PVC, all other things equal.
Two more advantages of the Nordfab style: 1) I have moved my shop twice and was able to very easily disassemble and reuse all of the components. My current shop is the biggest dust collection system so far so I had to add components, but it was still very easy. 2) if you ever move and end up with parts that you can no longer use, or just give up and sell everything 🤯 the metal duct components can actually be sold and retain a surprising amount of their original value if not damaged.
Its not about smoother, its about static build-up, sparks and getting zapped.
Industrial hygiene practitioner here - larger diameter pipes can be good, but not always. It depends on the specifications of your fan. Different tools might require different air velocities, and static pressure variation can be detrimental to the overall airflow. But all in all, great tips. I can’t wait to design my own system.
Just about to put dust extration in my new workshop...... awesome timing Mr Katz-Moses thanks 😊
I hope it sucks 🤣😉
Great video. Great delivery. No waffling. Loads of good ideas. Big thumbs up.
About to order my 1st dust collector unit - a BFlux from Laguna. Fortunately, 110mm grey pipe is dirt cheap over here 😂
Thanks, man 😊
Katz, great info on dust collection. This is a topic that can't possibly cover everyone's situation or needs. Dust collection is the science of fluid dynamics that is fairly simple from a thousand-foot perspective, but in real world application becomes extremely complicated. Especially when working with vacuums, this limits the range of pressure to operate within to a theoretical MAX of -14.7PSI. I say theoretical because even high-pressure duct collectors or extractors will never come close to -14.7 PSI, most will only see -1 or -2 while some may go as high as -8 PSI or so. Anyway, as you said, one is always learning and it's great that you share yours with us.
Thank you, All the Best, Chuck
These are actually really great tips. Thank you!
The new shop is looking fantastic, Jonathan! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Aha! Now I understand the blast gate short. Those blast gates are really clever.
Watching this vid and I'm at the part where you're showing the blast gates you made.
Great design. Thin nylon washers instead of the much thicker metal ones you use would still provide ease of use and make the gates even more air tight.
This was amazing!!
Building out a shop right now, so very timely reminders in this. Definitely going to be building my own blast gates after seeing the issues with the prefab stuff. Thanks, Jonathan!
Insane levels of innuendo in this video!
This was great ❤
Remember! Caulk and tape. Not tape and caulk. 😂🤣😂
Thank you for sharing and what you do for ground do it create static.
Instead of caulk and tape I put one layer of masking tape on the pipes before inserting them into the joints. Very tight fit but still adjustable and can easily be taken apart when needed.
Johnathan great video as always. You mentioned that you shouldn’t over pipe your system. Does using 4 inch for an upgraded harbor freight collector make sense?
Thanks for all of the infos. Very helpful.
Great video, thanks. The cheap and nasty plastic blast gates are actually quite good BUT you need to make a simple modification - cut the end off. If you cut off the part where the gate usually packs in sawdust then they self-clean effectively. The tiny space that is left does leak a bit of air when the machine is in use, but it does not affect the ability of the suction to work. The very small gap and it's flat shape really limit the amount of air leakage that can occur. I think in a pro shop like yours, they are simply too flimsy, but they are really good in light use in home shops. I used a mitre saw to modify mine and it worked with a 1.5HP single stage and still works with a 3HP cyclone similar to yours.
Actually, getting ready to tear my PVC ducking down today. I'm finishing up my shop that we will live in while our home is being built on our new property. So, for the wife's sake, you know I just had to put in a few "extras" to make it nice, for her of course... not that it gave me the opportunity to make a hell of a shop for myself or anything. 😂🤣 I had the exact problems you mentioned with leaking connections and plastic blast gates so I will be making your blast gates and planning my layout while we are waiting on the house so I'll be ready when the time comes to set everything back up. Thanks.
I just pulled all the tape off mine Caulk all my pvc joints after watching this. I could see piles of small saw dust on the joints and on my insulation by my joints. Hoping this works.
awesome video and the new shop looks great. Question.... how come you havent gone Ivac pro automated blast gates?? I have a small shop and they are the best thing since I always forgot to open the gate needed at the time.
I have these in my shop, they're awesome especially when coupled with the powerline sensor. They do have a down side in that you're limited in how many you can have operating a single DC.
Don't use "Duct Tape" (as in the brand, the stuff MacGyver uses, and the stuff that's actually not meant for duct work). Use aluminum tape which is actually meant to be used on duct work. It's more of a pain to get off but it's super sticky, won't break down, and won't leak.
That’s DUCK tape. Duct tape is for ducts. DUCK tape is strong tape that looks similar.
Flex tape!
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 No. Proper tape for taping duct joints is "aluminum foil tape". Duct/duck tape is the strong stuff.
I don’t have dust collection system (yet) but from reading and watching videos on the topic, I’ve been made to believe that the plastic pipe is not good because of static and it requires wiring to ground it. Is this a thing or not?
If you buy spiral metal ducting which is designed for air movement and not sewer the corners and connections are better suited for the job.
Great information as always.
Thank you!
Thin walled PVC is for irrigation drainage in landscaping. If you tell the salesman thin walled PVC and they look @ you with a question mark on thier face. Specifying for landscaping can help.
The difference between thin and thick is just how much pressure it can take.
An old engine builder once told me that the way to make the most power is to think like air. Same concept xD
Dust collection is one thing but there will always be dust that doesnt get sucked up so what do you do for air filtration outside of collection? Not sure I asked that in an understandable way..haha.
Thanks for sharing.
Where did you find the 6 inch pipe? I am struggling to find it anywhere. I’m in the Phoenix area but was there a distributor? No one seems to have it
I've made the mistake of putting caulk on the joint before assembly.
There's so much surface area it grabs ahold almost as well as cement.
If you make that mistake like I did a heat gun can help save the fittings.... even if you have to cut the pipe first, the pipe can be reused in shorter locations, but those fittings are so pricey
Good tip!
Awesome vid... I'm about to install a dust collector in my garage/shop.
I've heard that you need to ground the PVC to prevent static, and possibly cause a fire. Can anyone confirm of deny this?
Stumpy Nubs did a video where he installed a new dust collection system and talks specifically about this.
I am trying to keep my pipe as close to the wall as possible. How far off the wall would the pipe be when using your 4" blast gates wall-mounted? Thanks.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
3m makes a thin plastic film duct tape for flexible ducts, you can really get a good stretch seal on the first few wraps and normal tension for a cover layer, it seals any kind of duct I have used it on, fantastic stuff.
I'm going to check it out. Thank you
Hi sir can it be used to story cement factory dust which comes in very large quantity
There is chip collection and dust collection. The airflow requirements are different for each. They are dependent on many factors including the efficiency of the hood at the tool. Most home woodworker tools have at most a 4" outlet,. Running a 6" pipe all the way to the tool and then transitioning to a 4" greatly reduces the airflow. At the pressures generated by a blower air behaves more like a fluid that is it doesn't compress.Like water through a pipe the volume is limited by closing a valve-changing the cross sectional area of the piping.In addition to losing CFM ,you also lose FPM air flow speed as the air moves into the 6" duct. If it drops below about 3700FPM it may not be able to carry chips in vertical piping.Good chip collection does not necessarily mean good fine dust (the health hazard) collection.Bill Pentz is a great resource on dust collection.
Tips on sawing kumiko strips please!
How did you connect the 6" pvc to the inlet on the Jet dust collector, which (at least mine) has a bit over 8" opening
I think plumber's putty would be a better choice, to seal the joints, before the tape.
It would seal well and be easier to remove, if moving or remodeling.
I'm trying to design my system but am having trouble finding the thin wall pipe and fittings. Can you share the specs on the pipe you are using and where one might be able to get it. Thanks
I love the color-coded rope pulls! But (to me) it looks like you accidentally switched them. I think of green as equating to “go”, so i’d put it on the side that would open the gate if you pulled it (I.e., it’s ready for use). Yours, however, appear to be the reverse. I'm curious as to your logic. Thanks.
Tip: You can bend PVC pipes to any angle you want using heat. People usually do this by filling them with hot sand, or steam. Then bending them into shape with a simple mold. Not sure how easy it is to bend those big pipes though. But I think it is doable. I.e no more 45 degree angle... but perfect curves.
Thanks!!
To have less friction and flow loss in 45 or 90 degree elbows, use long sweep versions.
Ho do you find static buildup with all that pvc?
I don't really notice it
The only place I have an issue is on my cnc.
I purchased your digital file to import into my CNC software, when I bring it in, it is scaled to 0.5" x 0.5" with no way of knowing how big to scole the DXF files. Any help would be appreciated.
Don't you get static electricity with all that PVC? Does it need grounding?
Your switcher set-up has a 90+ degree angle on the single line. I believe the single selector line should be elevated in order to have a straighter line to the selector.
Have a question. I bought the powertec 4inch dust seperater. Works ok. But when I use my drum sander, all the dust seems to be going right to my 3 micron dust bag. Nothing stays in the collector, not sure why. Any ideas
Too much air speed in the system. If you cannot dial it down, open up another inlet slightly
I wonder how much those corrugated hoses hurt the performance of a collection system, would be an interesting experiment
how about doing something for a small shop maybe using a shop vac??
If you must use pvc pipe, dont use plumbing pipe, rather use electricians pvc pipe. It comes with big sweeping elbows (so they can pull cables). Sizes available up to 200mm or 8”.
What were you recommending for thin wall pvc? You mentioned a link in the video but can’t find it on here or your website. -Mike
Schedule 10 (pretty flimsy) or Schedule 20 PVC is likely what he was referring to. Standard plumbing PVC is Schedule 40. As the Schedule # increases, the wall thickness increases.
How does a pipe that has a lower than atmospheric pressure leak externally?
What do you do for grounding?
I don't ua-cam.com/video/yA22kTtV4XI/v-deo.html
He applies it to his children as punishment.
Consider rubber sleeve clamps at pipe joints.
thank you
Since you went with pvc, why not use 4 and 6 inch electrical sweeps?
They won't fit on sewer & drain pipe. Electrical conduit is different diameters than drain pipe
I just built a little 4” system into my work bench - learning from my last system I didn’t use glue I used Tape….. but didn’t caulk it, shit…… welp learn something new every time right lol
Right?!
Suspenders + belt...Why tape if you have caulked the joint? Caulking will always give a better seal, if done correctly.
On your switcher for the smaller tools you should make the upper pipe stationary and the strip of flex hoses be what moves.
I am a woodworker with a day job as a hazmat professional. When the people in my profession see woodworkers flailing at a problem with ill fitting masks, it's just very concerning. Johnathan and the industrial hygiene professionals here are providing good advice to protect yourselves. Capture the dust at its source. Don the best mask available when you are servicing your collection system. Mitigating contaminants starts with engineering controls (dust extraction) and process management. The PPE (mask) is your last line of defense, and professionals know this from the collected data.
all my workshop is 12x12 shed !!!
And you don't have issues with static electricity buildup in the pipes? In Europe it's strictly forbidden to use plastic for ducts. Needs to be metal or you have to run copper-tape along the full length to prevent dust explosions.
Dave -- Your regulators are borrowing rules from grain elevators and similar high-dust environments. The fine dust in grain elevators has been ignited by sparks from static electricity, so grounding of ducts is very necessary. Your regulators have chosen to apply those same rules to the dust collection systems in woodworking shops. But, does the same risk exist in similar, but different, environments? Several studies done in the United States say this risk of explosion does NOT exist in woodworking shops.
There are at least a couple of reasons for this. First, wood dust isn't as combustible as grain dust. That may be counterintuitive, but fine flour-like dust particles ignite very easily and burn very rapidly when suspended in air. That's not as true for wood dust. Wood simply requires a higher temperature for ignition.
Second, the volumes are very different in the two environments. A typical grain elevator will have a volume that is measured in hundreds, if not thousands, of cubic meters. The volume of a dust collector -- even those in a commercial wood shop -- isn't nearly that size. So, a grain elevator (as it is being loaded or unloaded) will have a lot of room above the top of the grain (or flour) to accumulate a lot of highly combustible dust. If an ignition were to occur, there could be plenty of suspended dust to fuel an explosion. That's simply not the case with a dust collector. My shop's dust collector has a volume of maybe two cubic meters. Even if an ignition were to occur, there wouldn't be enough fuel to do any damage. Yes, a dust explosion can be very powerful. But, there's a reason we don't use grain or wood dust to power cannon shells. It takes a lot of dust to produce an explosion of any real power. You simply cannot suspend that amount of dust in the air inside a wood shop's dust collection system.
Bottom line: Obey the laws and regluations of your country. But, all countries have laws that are misguided.
Easy solution… listen carefully. Wet your finger, reach out your arm, touch the duct. Voila! Instant discharge! 😉👌
@@josiahutah3712 So I need to hire someone with a wet finger to constantly discharge the ducts while I am working? Sounds like an expensive solution :)
Makes me wonder how a non hardening putty would perform for joining your pipes
I was thinking plumber's putty. Much easier to remove than caulk.
This is good for the lungs.
PVC glue is the best seal and yes you can remove the glue you don't have to throw it away like he said.
👍🏻👍🏻
Nordfab + Pentz EF5 + iVac = unmatched performance.
Dos and don'ts.
Don't even have the room to run hard pipe 🤣🤣
Didn’t see ground wires.
I don't ground mine. It's a myth that it is effective. Watch this. ua-cam.com/video/yA22kTtV4XI/v-deo.html
Don’t learn about dust collection on UA-cam.
Learn about static pressure differential and linear flow rate.
Employ an engineering firm or industrial hygienist.
Ignore anyone with design rules who is not a qualified expert.
You did not design the rocking blast gate, the original idea is at least 15 years old and mine are at least 12 years old. Any time you reduce the pipe diameter below 6" you may as well use that diameter all the way through because the flow is restricted to the small diameter. Modify the machine port to 6" and use a 15" impeller or bigger. There is more misinformation on the net surrounding dust collection than most subjects unfortunately. A major problem and a common mistake is to instal the Y's with the inlet leg pointing down, they should always be installed with the inlet horizontal because if the machine is not used for a while the dust drops into the downward pointing leg and blocks it. When the blast gate is next opened on that leg it will be pulled up as one plug and can cause further blackages. have been doing this stuff for a living and have a fair idea of what works so take my comments for what it they are worth to you.
“Think about the future” sorry you lost me at “think”
That's not paracord, it's called rope.... 🤦♂️
For a smart guy..... . . . .
Actually its green string and red dental floss
Are you losing weight? you look thinner lol
I am! Thanks
@@katzmosestools Right on man, you look good, keep it up, we are proud of you !!!