Im 80 yr old and when I was your age I had a reputation among the Dealerships and.race enthusiasts in was in demand because I was factory trained in Detroit by GM and Mopar. This is a training quality video. I think this is the dumbest engeneering blunder I ever saw. ( and there are many) im too old to do this anymore because of feeble hands and poor eyesite.😂 Old sucks.. i have a one owner 1985 F 250 6.9 IDA with 66000 original miles on it with a failed cooler that I spent a buttload on three different shopd that failed on this repair. I wish it had have been you turnin the wrenches. I enjoyed your presentation and learned some stuff. You can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks Dandahermit.😮😅
Great work on the videos and channel. IPR makes some solid products for the 6.0s. Oil, coolant, and trans filtration on a 6.0 all benefit from aftermarket upgrades, and they're critical to keeping the rig dialed in a humming. - As a side note, the guys at FICMRepair are damn solid resources for any 6.0 owner. They sell pretty much any part a guy could need and the customer service is stellar. They help guys all the time with troubleshooting, OE and aftermarket parts selection, etc. - Plus, if you're going to own/drive a 6.0, the FICM tunes they sell wake the beasts up very nicely. Best of all, they help with fuel mileage!
Fords original system is fine, as long as you loose that Ford Gold Coolant, which is the cause of the coolant side plugging up, instal coolant bypass filtration, maintain clean oil, and add oil bypass filtration. I’m still on both my original oil cooler and my original EGR cooler, after 18 years. My oil to coolant differential is as low as when the truck was new. Even though I would like the oil cooler to be outside the engine, I don’t like how hard it is to change the oil filter. I don’t like the non stock oil filter, and I don’t like the full flow coolant filter. Alls it takes is proper maintenance, and the stock filter will not plug.
Is anyone really comfortable removing the manifolds! Sometimes its about confidence. Or take out the first bolt, then your committed, or you should be! Great video!
I've been debating on whether to go with the BPD air to oil kit or this IPR kit. I've been flip flopping back and forth. In my mind the downside to this kit is the special oil filter and having to rewove the hoses to change the oil filter out and the fact that a "special oil filter" is used on this kit. although, I hear that this oil filter can be had at NAPA and also IPR sells them for about the same price as the factory stock filter. The upside is that this kit seems to be the best option to maintain factory cooler specifications. The kit from BPD that I was considering is the one that still utilizes the factory oil filter but an air/to oil heat exchanger. The other kit from BPD that uses a factory oil cooler doesn't offer a coolant filtration option which means that I'd have to by an IPR coolant filter on top of the price for the kit, which increases the cost quite a bit over this IPR kit. What are your thoughts and are you happy with this IPR kit? I like the fact that the coolant filter is servicable, cleanable. Did you get the CF2 upgraded coolant filter?
I did get the CF2 kit. I personally prefer the IPR coolers. The oil filter is a very minor issue. I suggest buying a few so you always have a spare on hand.
@@InTheShop Thanks man. That's what I wanted to hear. Your feedback tipped me to the ipr. I just found your channel and subbed, lots of good powerstroke info.
I am debating the same issues now. need to make a choice. I think the best option would be to use the BPD with factory oil cooler and then add the ipr coolant filter. This would be the most expensive, but would be easier to buy filters and do oil changes in the long run. Do you know if this IPR coolant filter can be used in conjunction with the BPD kit?
@@Jimo225 The oil filters are readily available at any parts store. There actually cheaper than the stock motorcraft filter. I've been running the ipr setup for a little over a month now and I'm very happy with it. I really don't think the bpd kit is any better. The ipr kit is really nice and well made.
I like this kit, but I have a few questions. I don’t like the full flow coolant filter. I am already running a Dieselsite bypass coolant filter. I don’t want a full flow filter that affects coolant flow as it starts to plug. I would like to not install the EPR coolant filter part of the kit, and retain my coolant bypass filter. I also run an Amsoil oil bypass filtration kit, which I would like to retain. Is there a 1/8 tap some where on that oil filter cap? Also, from the looks of it, this kit runs its own type of oil filter, and not the Ford stock filter??. I am also running the Banks Technicolor intercooler, larger Ram Air intake, and larger 3” boost tubes. Am I going to have clearance problems with the re located oil cooler? I would like to install this EPR kit, but want to make sure I can retain my original bypass coolant and oil filter systems. Great video!
The full flow coolant filter is far superior to the bypass coolant filter. I understand your concern but if you clean the filter regularly you will not have flow issues to the cooler. Doing away with this filter would be a big disservice since full flow coolant filtration is one of the biggest benefits of this kit. As far as the amsoil bypass oil filter goes. There is a port on the IPR cap. You may have to get an adapter fitting. I believe the port is m12x1.5mm. It does run a different oil filter than stock. I am not 100% sure on clearance but based on the installs I have done I don’t see it being a big problem.
@@InTheShop I appreciate the response. Thank you for answering my questions. I’m still not sold on full flow coolant filtration. All filters have a pressure drop, especially at full flow. I think bypass filtration is more than adequate, and if it should ever plug, it will not cause any flow problems with the main coolant flow. It doesn’t take long for a bypass filter, whether it be coolant or oil, to filter the whole coolant or oil charge. With an ELC, with no inhibitor package to settle out, alls I’m catching is a little sand from the initial casting process. I thought your video was great.
Hey Arden, I personally have not used the Felpro gaskets but a lot of very reputable people I know have used them with great luck. I typically use the mahle or ford which are both the same gasket just a different color.
Hi Guy, first of all I am no professional mechanic by any means but have done plenty of engine to where I developed enough courage to own my first diesel that's an 2006 F250 6.0 and did my own bulletproofing in my driveway. (ARP studs, Fel-Pro HG, water pump, updated EGR and Oil cooler, STC fitting, dummy plugs and sandpipe, 6.4 pushrods, HHC nipple oil rings etc.. To help with the HG question, so far I have driven 30k miles pushing pretty hard with a lead boot every so often. Tunes, im running Looney Wild from Eric and switch it to Eco City or Looney PCT. This is just my real worl experience with the work done on my driveway dedicating a few hours a day after work. It has been running great thus far. Hope it helps with your decision making.
@@stephanvallee5167 No sir, I did not have to removal the cab. I can't take any credit because I learned this from Josh 6.0 Doctor. Assuming you got far along with the oil cooler and intake manifold out already, we can start at removing the heads. I completely removed the driver side engine mount only and continue to jack that side up with a 4x4 block just enough for clearance to remove the driver side head. All tty head bolts will come out easily. Once the drive side head is out, lower the engine and rest the engine block on the chassis (engine mount completely removed already). This will tilt the passenger side just enough to remove all head bolts except the lower rear 3 bolts. These 3 bolts will come out with engine being hoisted out. The heads are very heavy, use an engine hoist will save you the agony. Upon installation, place 3 ARP head bolts at those lower rear 3 location temporarily securing them with zip ties prior to lowering the head back in. This applies only to the passenger side. Drive side, you can set the head in place and ARP bolts as nominal. Factory is 210 ft-lb, but I have mines at 245 ft-lbs (reading forums and from shop) The head gasket I used is Fel Pro and it's still holding up thus far. Again, im not professional but have about 14 years of aviation experience so surfing prepping, torque specs and following available procedure is pretty standard.
Assuming you haven't found them yet, or for others who need them, you need to email them and they will send you a file...maybe...its kinda messed up that you pay that much for something like this and they cant be bothered to print them out for you....or at least email them to you without you having to figure out how to contact them.
Its a hard call whether or not to spend this kind of money replacing parts that aren't yet broken but the benefit of having the full flow coolant filter will save you from having massive headaches in the future.
Did you use the gaskets and o-rings from the kit or buy a set from the dealership? I know a lot of 3rd party gaskets are prone to failure. Sorry if you said in the video.. I may have missed it.
So 200+° coolant is better than 100° air at cooling? I understand the cold if you live up north, but think the air to oil cooler would also help engine cooling by dissipating heat to the air instead of back into the coolant.
A few things factor into this. First your oil is designed to work best at a certain temperature. That temperature happens to be the same temp that your cooling system runs at. The other factor is that even though the air passing across an air to oil cooler is colder than the coolant in a water to oil cooler it’s not as efficient. Liquid does a much better job of transferring heat than air does. The cooling system in your 6.0 is designed to take the load of cooling your oil. In a properly functioning 6.0 the oil cooler does a great job of keeping the oil at the proper temperature. Overcooling your oil can also be an issue with air to oil. You need your oil to come to operating temperatures in order for moisture to evaporate out. A great example of this is propane operated forklifts that aren’t run for long periods of time. The oil never reaches operating temp and typically will end up milky and full of condensation long be for its due for an oil change.
Anyone have any ideas how you stop the degas cap leaking? Changed the bottle and the cap and still sings of coolant escape. Males heck of a mess under the hood
Great video, but I'm not sure I agree with your reasonings for going for water to oil over air to oil. In my opinion, the efficiency of the water oil cooler only effects the size the cooler needs to be. Air oil cooler will need to be bigger, but as long as the flow and cooling capacity specs are the same as factory, will perform just as well. I don't get the nonsense about the radiator working more efficiently. It's a radiator, and so is an air oil cooler. If there is air flowing over one, there will be air flowing over the other.
There are several parts to that. Your engine and high pressure oil system is designed to operate at a certain temperature. An air to oil cooler has a hard time maintaining that temp because ambient air temp can vary drastically. Believe it or not it is bad to have your oil too cool. Your factory cooling system is designed with cooling your oil in mind. You are correct in saying you can make an air to oil cooler cool as much as an oil to water but it needs to be much larger. If you need a larger heat exchanger to do the same job it’s not as efficient. I personally don’t like blocking the radiator with anything more than it’s already blocked with. The air to oil coolers do work but not as consistently. Temps with the oil to water will come up to operating temp and stay there.
@@InTheShop BPD's thermostat looks like it might be a viable option to counteract oil temperature issues. 100% agree with the oil too cold being a bad thing though, and the fact that the cooling system needs to run at around the same temperatures is very convenient. 6.7 uses an oil water system with dual rads which kind of indicates oil water is in fact a better system. If I had to guess, the dual radiators are better able to take advantage of the full flow of the fan than several haphazardly placed coolers. As far as oil coolers having an impact over the efficiency of the radiator, who's to say. Considering the intercooler, automatic transmission cooler, power steering cooler, and ac condenser are all mounted in front of the rad as well, I'd say it probably doesnt do much. Again great video and thanks for the discussion.
@@InTheShopDoesn’t BDP offer a kit with a thermostat for cold weather applications, so that the oil temperature runs the correct temperature, without being affected by ambient air?
@@InTheShop how hard is it to change the oil filter? asking because you got those hoses going to the cap. Do you have to remove those 2 hoses to change the filter?
really good work....that v8 diesel.needs a larger oil cooler than that.... i would put it in back of the ford grill...in the front of the truck.....being the first to get air flow..... thank you for your shop video'''''''
Awesome video! I love the way you explain and show everything clearly and thoroughly! Awesome mechanic work dude! I’m not even a ford powerstroke guy! I watched the short version just I was curious what this kit and conversion was. I’m more of a Cummins guy! All 12 and 24 valve guy! From the VE rotary pumps, p7100 and VP44! I think the best thing for any of the power strokes is a Cummins 12 or 24v with a p pump swap! And fix it good the first time! To much going on with them 6.0’s, 6.4’s and 6.7’s. There’s some guys on UA-cam that have done some really neat 12v swaps on a newer fords, like $100k king ranch’s, literally yanked the powerstroke and threw it in the scrap pile. And built one hell of a nice p pumped 12v Cummins mated up to the OE ford trans. There’s companies that make conversion kits, all bolt on conversions, adapter plates and all sorts of neat stuff, radiator and intercooler brackets etc. it’s prolly the only way I’d ever own one, was if it was de stroked! They just ain’t good motors. You watch vids of guys that have ‘bullet proofed’ them, and I hate using that term bullet proofed, cause you could have a $70-$80k into your motor and ain’t nothing gunna be grenade proof on these things, especially when you turn them up. But it seems Oringed heads, arp head studs, the oil cooler delete mod like this you did, and emissions deletes are the top things, a diesel engine was never made to eat its own a$$! Let em breathe! Putting all that soot and particulate back into the intake isn’t the solution. And that’s why I’ve always been on the older skool end of things, the pre emissions era’s. As soon as they started putting egr, def, all the sensors, modules, computers and junk on them they became unreliable, no one could work on ‘em. A Cummins 12v is so simple. The water pumps 2 bolts and an Oring. They could have made the impeller out of metal instead of plastic yes but there’s an after market company that makes a billet water pump! It’s a marvel of master cnc machining. But when things were all mechanical, cast iron, and well built. FoMoCo?! Heh not built ford tough. Does they say has always had better built body’s, and interiors that’s dodge, dodge has always had a better diesel engine that their body, and steering and transmissions fall apart around lol, unless it’s a manual, dodge always had really good strong manuals. My ‘02 HO is a 6 speed nv5600. The biggest burliest trans you can get under a dump truck transmission like an Eaton fuller super 6 you would have found in a 80’s ford dump truck powered with a 12v Cummins motor! even ford loves 12v’s!
Im 80 yr old and when I was your age I had a reputation among the Dealerships and.race enthusiasts in was in demand because I was factory trained in Detroit by GM and Mopar. This is a training quality video. I think this is the dumbest engeneering blunder I ever saw. ( and there are many) im too old to do this anymore because of feeble hands and poor eyesite.😂 Old sucks.. i have a one owner 1985 F 250 6.9 IDA with 66000 original miles on it with a failed cooler that I spent a buttload on three different shopd that failed on this repair. I wish it had have been you turnin the wrenches. I enjoyed your presentation and learned some stuff. You can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks Dandahermit.😮😅
My IPR kit has been on for a year now on my f550 flat bed and I’m happy so far. (No issues). This video helped immensely install it.
Great work on the videos and channel. IPR makes some solid products for the 6.0s. Oil, coolant, and trans filtration on a 6.0 all benefit from aftermarket upgrades, and they're critical to keeping the rig dialed in a humming.
- As a side note, the guys at FICMRepair are damn solid resources for any 6.0 owner. They sell pretty much any part a guy could need and the customer service is stellar. They help guys all the time with troubleshooting, OE and aftermarket parts selection, etc. - Plus, if you're going to own/drive a 6.0, the FICM tunes they sell wake the beasts up very nicely. Best of all, they help with fuel mileage!
This is the kit I am going with. Just seems well though out and won't overcool the oil with the added benefits of coolant filtration
Fords original system is fine, as long as you loose that Ford Gold Coolant, which is the cause of the coolant side plugging up, instal coolant bypass filtration, maintain clean oil, and add oil bypass filtration. I’m still on both my original oil cooler and my original EGR cooler, after 18 years. My oil to coolant differential is as low as when the truck was new. Even though I would like the oil cooler to be outside the engine, I don’t like how hard it is to change the oil filter. I don’t like the non stock oil filter, and I don’t like the full flow coolant filter. Alls it takes is proper maintenance, and the stock filter will not plug.
This is going to be my next upgrade when the time comes.. Thanks for sharing..
Is anyone really comfortable removing the manifolds! Sometimes its about confidence. Or take out the first bolt, then your committed, or you should be! Great video!
The fact that this is the short version makes me want to empty my bank account just to have this guy do it for me.
Its a solid weekend job.
I've been debating on whether to go with the BPD air to oil kit or this IPR kit. I've been flip flopping back and forth. In my mind the downside to this kit is the special oil filter and having to rewove the hoses to change the oil filter out and the fact that a "special oil filter" is used on this kit. although, I hear that this oil filter can be had at NAPA and also IPR sells them for about the same price as the factory stock filter. The upside is that this kit seems to be the best option to maintain factory cooler specifications. The kit from BPD that I was considering is the one that still utilizes the factory oil filter but an air/to oil heat exchanger. The other kit from BPD that uses a factory oil cooler doesn't offer a coolant filtration option which means that I'd have to by an IPR coolant filter on top of the price for the kit, which increases the cost quite a bit over this IPR kit. What are your thoughts and are you happy with this IPR kit? I like the fact that the coolant filter is servicable, cleanable. Did you get the CF2 upgraded coolant filter?
I did get the CF2 kit. I personally prefer the IPR coolers. The oil filter is a very minor issue. I suggest buying a few so you always have a spare on hand.
@@InTheShop Thanks man. That's what I wanted to hear. Your feedback tipped me to the ipr. I just found your channel and subbed, lots of good powerstroke info.
I am debating the same issues now. need to make a choice. I think the best option would be to use the BPD with factory oil cooler and then add the ipr coolant filter. This would be the most expensive, but would be easier to buy filters and do oil changes in the long run. Do you know if this IPR coolant filter can be used in conjunction with the BPD kit?
@@Jimo225 The oil filters are readily available at any parts store. There actually cheaper than the stock motorcraft filter. I've been running the ipr setup for a little over a month now and I'm very happy with it. I really don't think the bpd kit is any better. The ipr kit is really nice and well made.
@@marcellemay7721 cool. I need to decide soon. Does ipr kit use factory egr cooler? or you got to buy a special one?
I'm looking for the exact kit for my 05 f350 6.0 diesel truck an I don't see the kit number I really need it
I like this kit, but I have a few questions. I don’t like the full flow coolant filter. I am already running a Dieselsite bypass coolant filter. I don’t want a full flow filter that affects coolant flow as it starts to plug. I would like to not install the EPR coolant filter part of the kit, and retain my coolant bypass filter. I also run an Amsoil oil bypass filtration kit, which I would like to retain. Is there a 1/8 tap some where on that oil filter cap? Also, from the looks of it, this kit runs its own type of oil filter, and not the Ford stock filter??. I am also running the Banks Technicolor intercooler, larger Ram Air intake, and larger 3” boost tubes. Am I going to have clearance problems with the re located oil cooler? I would like to install this EPR kit, but want to make sure I can retain my original bypass coolant and oil filter systems. Great video!
The full flow coolant filter is far superior to the bypass coolant filter. I understand your concern but if you clean the filter regularly you will not have flow issues to the cooler. Doing away with this filter would be a big disservice since full flow coolant filtration is one of the biggest benefits of this kit.
As far as the amsoil bypass oil filter goes. There is a port on the IPR cap. You may have to get an adapter fitting. I believe the port is m12x1.5mm.
It does run a different oil filter than stock.
I am not 100% sure on clearance but based on the installs I have done I don’t see it being a big problem.
@@InTheShop I appreciate the response. Thank you for answering my questions. I’m still not sold on full flow coolant filtration. All filters have a pressure drop, especially at full flow. I think bypass filtration is more than adequate, and if it should ever plug, it will not cause any flow problems with the main coolant flow. It doesn’t take long for a bypass filter, whether it be coolant or oil, to filter the whole coolant or oil charge. With an ELC, with no inhibitor package to settle out, alls I’m catching is a little sand from the initial casting process. I thought your video was great.
I have the motor out of my 2010 E350 6.0 because a lifter roller broke. How bout using Fel-Pro heads gaskets during re-assembly?
Hey Arden, I personally have not used the Felpro gaskets but a lot of very reputable people I know have used them with great luck. I typically use the mahle or ford which are both the same gasket just a different color.
Hi Guy, first of all I am no professional mechanic by any means but have done plenty of engine to where I developed enough courage to own my first diesel that's an 2006 F250 6.0 and did my own bulletproofing in my driveway. (ARP studs, Fel-Pro HG, water pump, updated EGR and Oil cooler, STC fitting, dummy plugs and sandpipe, 6.4 pushrods, HHC nipple oil rings etc..
To help with the HG question, so far I have driven 30k miles pushing pretty hard with a lead boot every so often. Tunes, im running Looney Wild from Eric and switch it to Eco City or Looney PCT.
This is just my real worl experience with the work done on my driveway dedicating a few hours a day after work. It has been running great thus far. Hope it helps with your decision making.
@@ANGKORIAN2o9 Did you pull the cab ?
@@stephanvallee5167 No sir, I did not have to removal the cab. I can't take any credit because I learned this from Josh 6.0 Doctor.
Assuming you got far along with the oil cooler and intake manifold out already, we can start at removing the heads.
I completely removed the driver side engine mount only and continue to jack that side up with a 4x4 block just enough for clearance to remove the driver side head. All tty head bolts will come out easily. Once the drive side head is out, lower the engine and rest the engine block on the chassis (engine mount completely removed already). This will tilt the passenger side just enough to remove all head bolts except the lower rear 3 bolts. These 3 bolts will come out with engine being hoisted out. The heads are very heavy, use an engine hoist will save you the agony.
Upon installation, place 3 ARP head bolts at those lower rear 3 location temporarily securing them with zip ties prior to lowering the head back in. This applies only to the passenger side. Drive side, you can set the head in place and ARP bolts as nominal. Factory is 210 ft-lb, but I have mines at 245 ft-lbs (reading forums and from shop) The head gasket I used is Fel Pro and it's still holding up thus far.
Again, im not professional but have about 14 years of aviation experience so surfing prepping, torque specs and following available procedure is pretty standard.
I wouldn't use anything but factory motorcraft headgaskets.
Very well done ! How does this differ from the "Bullet proof" oil cooler ?
This kit is still a coolant to oil cooler. The Bulletproof system is an air to oil cooler
How can I get a printed version of instructions. I did not receive one when o bought my kit
Assuming you haven't found them yet, or for others who need them, you need to email them and they will send you a file...maybe...its kinda messed up that you pay that much for something like this and they cant be bothered to print them out for you....or at least email them to you without you having to figure out how to contact them.
Looking at buying a low milage
Its a hard call whether or not to spend this kind of money replacing parts that aren't yet broken but the benefit of having the full flow coolant filter will save you from having massive headaches in the future.
Did you use the gaskets and o-rings from the kit or buy a set from the dealership? I know a lot of 3rd party gaskets are prone to failure. Sorry if you said in the video.. I may have missed it.
The kit came with Ford gaskets
How do I know which generation kit I have
what kind of torque wrench is that i bought one that flex less than 10 degrees im looking for one with more range of motion
It’s made by cornwell
I plan on getting this kit what us that plug on the oil filter cap for could I run a bypass filter off that
You could or a gauge.
Is this kit still available or has it been updated, I can't find it on the IPR site.
www.iprresearch.com/IPR-External-Oil-Cooler-Kit-for-Ford-6.0-Powerstroke-EOC-603WT1.html
@@InTheShop ty
So 200+° coolant is better than 100° air at cooling? I understand the cold if you live up north, but think the air to oil cooler would also help engine cooling by dissipating heat to the air instead of back into the coolant.
A few things factor into this. First your oil is designed to work best at a certain temperature. That temperature happens to be the same temp that your cooling system runs at. The other factor is that even though the air passing across an air to oil cooler is colder than the coolant in a water to oil cooler it’s not as efficient. Liquid does a much better job of transferring heat than air does.
The cooling system in your 6.0 is designed to take the load of cooling your oil. In a properly functioning 6.0 the oil cooler does a great job of keeping the oil at the proper temperature.
Overcooling your oil can also be an issue with air to oil. You need your oil to come to operating temperatures in order for moisture to evaporate out. A great example of this is propane operated forklifts that aren’t run for long periods of time. The oil never reaches operating temp and typically will end up milky and full of condensation long be for its due for an oil change.
I did not receive the written instructions. Any idea if they're available online? Thank you
You can just contact them. Also I have a copy if you still can't find them.
Ok me again
I told you Im old but I never saw the cooling radiator or placement in way of the fan Dandahermit
I would like you to ask you something what is the price for the cooling system
All the pricing is on their website. I put links in the description of the video. The price changes depending on the options you want.
I thought you had one for the oil change
Unfortunately I havnt got around to making that video yet.
Anyone have any ideas how you stop the degas cap leaking? Changed the bottle and the cap and still sings of coolant escape. Males heck of a mess under the hood
If the cap is new and the bottle is new I would test to see how much pressure the cooling system is making. It sounds like you have bad headgaskets.
@@InTheShop Thank you! Possibly bad news, but at least will know what to dig in to.
Great video, but I'm not sure I agree with your reasonings for going for water to oil over air to oil. In my opinion, the efficiency of the water oil cooler only effects the size the cooler needs to be. Air oil cooler will need to be bigger, but as long as the flow and cooling capacity specs are the same as factory, will perform just as well. I don't get the nonsense about the radiator working more efficiently. It's a radiator, and so is an air oil cooler. If there is air flowing over one, there will be air flowing over the other.
There are several parts to that. Your engine and high pressure oil system is designed to operate at a certain temperature. An air to oil cooler has a hard time maintaining that temp because ambient air temp can vary drastically. Believe it or not it is bad to have your oil too cool. Your factory cooling system is designed with cooling your oil in mind. You are correct in saying you can make an air to oil cooler cool as much as an oil to water but it needs to be much larger. If you need a larger heat exchanger to do the same job it’s not as efficient. I personally don’t like blocking the radiator with anything more than it’s already blocked with. The air to oil coolers do work but not as consistently. Temps with the oil to water will come up to operating temp and stay there.
@@InTheShop BPD's thermostat looks like it might be a viable option to counteract oil temperature issues. 100% agree with the oil too cold being a bad thing though, and the fact that the cooling system needs to run at around the same temperatures is very convenient. 6.7 uses an oil water system with dual rads which kind of indicates oil water is in fact a better system. If I had to guess, the dual radiators are better able to take advantage of the full flow of the fan than several haphazardly placed coolers. As far as oil coolers having an impact over the efficiency of the radiator, who's to say. Considering the intercooler, automatic transmission cooler, power steering cooler, and ac condenser are all mounted in front of the rad as well, I'd say it probably doesnt do much.
Again great video and thanks for the discussion.
@@InTheShopDoesn’t BDP offer a kit with a thermostat for cold weather applications, so that the oil temperature runs the correct temperature, without being affected by ambient air?
What are you location I would like you dish to my truck F350 2007 motor 6.0
I’m not currently taking on any work.
Would you install one on my truck?
I missed something... where’d the oil filter go??
Oil filter is still in the factory location.
@@InTheShop how hard is it to change the oil filter? asking because you got those hoses going to the cap. Do you have to remove those 2 hoses to change the filter?
@@Jimo225 you have to remove those two hoses then the cap threads off.
How much does this job generally cost to have a professional do it?
really good work....that v8 diesel.needs a larger oil cooler than that.... i would put it in back of the ford grill...in the front of the truck.....being the first to get air flow..... thank you for your shop video'''''''
It’s cooled by water so air flow is not relevant
any particular reason you went with the IPR remote oil cooler vs. the BPD one?
Most likely price. The IPR system is about $400 less. I'm in the process of adapting the bulletproof manifold to their 6.7 heavy duty oil cooler.
@@andrewb9708 can you get me some information on that? I would love to do that adapt that
Cool, thanks man. Now planning to get this IPR kit.
Glad I could help!
Great video thanks for being very specific on how the jobs done ✅
Awesome video! I love the way you explain and show everything clearly and thoroughly! Awesome mechanic work dude!
I’m not even a ford powerstroke guy! I watched the short version just I was curious what this kit and conversion was. I’m more of a Cummins guy! All 12 and 24 valve guy! From the VE rotary pumps, p7100 and VP44!
I think the best thing for any of the power strokes is a Cummins 12 or 24v with a p pump swap! And fix it good the first time!
To much going on with them 6.0’s, 6.4’s and 6.7’s. There’s some guys on UA-cam that have done some really neat 12v swaps on a newer fords, like $100k king ranch’s, literally yanked the powerstroke and threw it in the scrap pile. And built one hell of a nice p pumped 12v Cummins mated up to the OE ford trans. There’s companies that make conversion kits, all bolt on conversions, adapter plates and all sorts of neat stuff, radiator and intercooler brackets etc. it’s prolly the only way I’d ever own one, was if it was de stroked!
They just ain’t good motors. You watch vids of guys that have ‘bullet proofed’ them, and I hate using that term bullet proofed, cause you could have a $70-$80k into your motor and ain’t nothing gunna be grenade proof on these things, especially when you turn them up. But it seems Oringed heads, arp head studs, the oil cooler delete mod like this you did, and emissions deletes are the top things, a diesel engine was never made to eat its own a$$! Let em breathe! Putting all that soot and particulate back into the intake isn’t the solution. And that’s why I’ve always been on the older skool end of things, the pre emissions era’s. As soon as they started putting egr, def, all the sensors, modules, computers and junk on them they became unreliable, no one could work on ‘em. A Cummins 12v is so simple. The water pumps 2 bolts and an Oring. They could have made the impeller out of metal instead of plastic yes but there’s an after market company that makes a billet water pump! It’s a marvel of master cnc machining. But when things were all mechanical, cast iron, and well built. FoMoCo?! Heh not built ford tough. Does they say has always had better built body’s, and interiors that’s dodge, dodge has always had a better diesel engine that their body, and steering and transmissions fall apart around lol, unless it’s a manual, dodge always had really good strong manuals. My ‘02 HO is a 6 speed nv5600. The biggest burliest trans you can get under a dump truck transmission like an Eaton fuller super 6 you would have found in a 80’s ford dump truck powered with a 12v Cummins motor! even ford loves 12v’s!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤟🏻🤟🏻🤟🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻