Just a thought.....in your example here, you're replacing the lower portion of your garage wallboard because the garage flooded... Yes, wallboard will wick up water....so, may I suggest you install the new wallboard leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch gap at the floor to keep the wallboard from getting wet, if the garage floods again. That gap is then easily covered with any base molding.
We Use Smart Panel In Areas Like This! Or A 1x8 Trim Board Around The Entire Utility Room! We Always Keep The Board Up Off Of The Floor Even In The Upstairs Rooms! Drywall Is Sized To Be Short Of The Stud Wall Height! That Is Why You Always put The Top Row On First! I Agree With Your Comment 100%
I’m not a professional, but I have some tips that have worked very well for me that I learned from professionals. 1) you don’t need to buy fancy stuff to modify your mud. You can use Fixall or Durahm’s rock hard putty to get your topper or joint compound to set very quickly. 2)You also never have to sand. As soon as you start seeing the mud start to dry, you can use a slightly wet, grout sponge to smooth the surface. It’ll take some practice, but once you get good at it, your drywalling jobs will be very quick and clean.
Durhams has something in it that can cause continuous bleeding through certain wall coatings like American Clay and perhaps a flat paint. Durhams is an expensive solution too, I would just use hot mud.
@pmhardison wet sanding is easier, faster, quieter, and cleaner than dry sanding, and I much prefer it over dry sanding. Not sure why you thing it is difficult, care to explain?
@@Erklzanderz wet sanding drywall, clogs sandpaper and mesh and can damage paper faster. I do wet sand with a sponge and dampen and trowel when not fully cured.
Awesome vid! I appreciate you sharing. The cut down in drywall dust and clean up alone is a definite selling point. Such a pain tarping off areas of the job within an occupied home, trying to contain dust. It's a waste of time, money for plastic tarps, tape etc. these additives make a huge difference. And an additional money and time saver is not having to wait on drying time. Love it! Thanks again. 👍
Here’s some words of advice from a 40 year Drywall pro that I teach on my channel. One is a video like this makes it look easier and makes it look like it came out better than it did. When you light drywall work at a 90° angle it hides most of the defects so you don’t see them on videos like this. The big DIY shows major network shows do the same thing. Next as many have pointed out that you should never use regular compound with mesh tape. I’ve put on at least 500 rolls of mesh tape with no problem because I always use fast setting joint compound as it is required. So watch videos like this and support their channel but realize that you don’t want to take too much advice from videos like this. I try to simplify it for everybody and give you the right advice so that you can do it right. I’m going to have to test out that product myself someday
I’m not a pro but have done a fair amount of mud over a few decades. The guy who taught me always added a heathy squirt of liquid detergent to the bucket, whether it was regular compound or ez-sand. Amazing how smooth that makes the skim coats. I do everything with just a bread pan and a 4 and 12 inch knife. I usually use paper tape, and wet it in my cleaning bucket before applying. Seems to bed better.
So, speaking of “sanding drywall, or the lack there of, and a light”, have any of you ever took a flashlight, turned it on and laid it on the wall so that the light is shining over the surface of the wall??? Hell, now that I think about it, maybe that is exactly what you were referring to with your “man who says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light” comment!?!?!? Oh well, if so, then that most likely was not my brightest moment. Anywho, I have done this “flashlight” trick, or whatever you might want to call it, on a ton of walls and even a ton of floors, as well. This trick does NOT work on floors with carpet!!! It has to be done on hard floors, such as vinyl, hardwood, concrete and any other kind of floor that has a flat surface. Now, if you have done this “flashlight” trick before then I’m fairly certain that you know exactly where I’m going with this… and if you haven’t ever does this then you will be absolutely stunned if you ever decide to do so. Which, by the way, I highly recommend that you try this “flashlight” trick, for yourself, so that you can see exactly what it is that I am talking about. So anyways, moving forward, for the absolute best results and to ensure that you experience maximum viewing pleasure, you will definitely want to turn off any and all of the lights that are on and/or illuminating the room that you’re in… then, once it’s nice and mostly dark, turn your flashlight on and then lay the flashlight on the wall and focus your attention and look where the light is shining on and across the wall. You’ll want to move the flashlight around and hit all of the different parts of the wall. What do you see??? EVERY SINGLE TINY IMPERFECTION, from the original drywall work when the sheet rock was first hung, any and all repairs done since, high and low spots, dust and dirt, and a myriad of other things. Now, move to the next wall and check it out. You can do this throughout your entire house, office or any building for that matter. However, before doing this, “IF” you suffer from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, of ANY other kind of mental issues, for that matter, that are similar, in nature, to O.C.D. to where you’re not even remotely close to being satisfied unless stuff you see is absolutely perfect and/or any other things that aren’t perfect bother you and/or any little imperfections that you’re aware of just absolutely drive you insane until you fix and/or remedy them, then I would highly recommend and suggest, for your very own well being, that you do NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT, ever put a flashlight on a wall or a floor!!! Simply put, you very well may not ever leave!!! There are so many imperfections on every single wall ever built!!! And then when you’re finished with the walls, take and lay the flashlight on the floor and move it around… you see all of the imperfections, damage, high spots, low spots, but what do you see the most of??? DUST AND DIRT… ITS EVERYWHERE!!! Even if you just cleaned the floor yourself and you thought it was perfect!!! I have told my wife before, when she finished thoroughly sweeping and mopping the floor, “now, just how clean do you think that floor is that you just cleaned???”… and she said, “I’d almost eat off of it, that’s how clean it is… because I KNOW how to clean!!!”. Well fellas, that’s when, and this was the very first and the very LAST time that I was bone-headed and stupid enough to ever even pulled this stunt with my wife… and furthermore I would highly recommend that none of you try it either, simply due to the fact that there is absolutely NO GOOD OUTCOME, for any of you, in this exchange!!! But anywho, that’s not here nor there, I got my flashlight, turned it on… I could see the smirk on her face as I was kneeling down to put the flashlight on the floor when she condescendingly said something about, “WHAT’S THAT SUPPOSED TO DO???”… and I said, “watch this honey”… you would not believe just how quick I grabbed the flashlight, turned it off and made a futile attempt at changing the subject just as quick as I could, to absolutely no avail!!! She was angry as a hornet for about the next day or so!!! Long story short… do not try this “flashlight” trick if you suffer from O.C.D. and/or you’re trying to prove a point with your wife right after she finished cleaning the floors!!! 😂😂😂
Always use quickset mud with mesh tape. Regular bucket mud will shrink and crack on large gaps/ seam differences. I always use speed set 20 or 45 minute for 1st 2 coats (depending on job size) and 3rd coat gets "low dust" lite bucket mud. You MUST sand if you want it perfectly smooth. Texture prevents sanding but isnt popular anymore here. The "low dust" stuff settles to the floor quicker when sanding so dust isnt as bad. 3 coats in one day is no problem if its small job. I have used topping compound for a smoother finish on whole walls but I rarely mud the whole wall. I knew a guy who said he sands with no dust. Yea he used wet method to feather edges and none of his repairs were flat. It looked horrible. Sanding with a hard block and screen knocks it flat quick then follow with sponge to feather edges
I also use 45-minute quick-set joint compound. It is possible to achieve a smooth finish by wet-sanding with a sponge, but you need to have the proper technique. I would only recommend wet-sanding for repair jobs, as it would take too long if you were working on new construction. I still sand the quick-set joint compound, if I'm working near interior corners.
word to the wise, you can get 40/ 90 min quick setting mud. As well, you can't use that mesh tape with normal compound-- you CAN use it with the quickset.
i've used the mesh tape with proform compound for 3 decades??? but then again i was raised democrat and learned that's communism practiced by really dumb people. 1984 and animal farm, go read them, other wise don't cry sheepy
Also need to prefill that joint before taping to prevent future cracking. I suspect that this additive is "mostly" plaster of Paris which will essentially turn that premixed mud into a fast set mud (no shrinking when drying - the expansion of the plaster of Paris compensates for the shrinking of the water based mud) so that mesh tape might be fine with this additive.
@@wally7856 Mesh tape isn't necessary for small cracks - just for big gaps. What he was doing is a little counterintuitive. It only makes for the having to use more mud than necessary. But yeah this product is sort of an overkill unless you have multiple walls and are trying to do a professional job and get done in as little time as possible.
I've never had a problem using the mesh tape with premixed compound, but I always prefill the gap. I wouldn't recommend that combination to anyone who expects to push the first application of compound through the tape.
I've been doing drywall for almost 20 years and still don't always get my timing right on every coat 🥴 it's okay, though, because this is your house AND you're learning while doing it, in the event you may need it in the future! ❤
@@keithmarlowe5569 scuff it up with some sandpaper and then patch what you need to, and always feather your edges! ;) if it's not a very obvious spot, just cover it with a picture 🥴🤣
That's a dynamite attitude and outlook, and too many "pros" overlook this reality in the rush to crap on someone willing to venture into "sacred territory". The other variable often ignored is being able to even get someone to come do such little projects, or for such a huge cost that it makes it worthwhile for the average homeowner to at least practice and expand their possibilities and skills
Great video Brent. I have used this product and it is awesome. As others have mentioned, while it does make hot/setting mud easier to apply, you really don't need to use it because Muddskip allows you to add more layers without waiting until the next day. Hot mud or setting mud is notoriously hard to apply and very hard to sand. Your difficulty sanding I believe was related to the hot mud not the Muddskip. Also because 20 minute mud starts to set up very quickly, you often don't get a smooth surface unless you are very fast. One of the very big benefits of Muddskip is NO SANDING! It also feathers very nicely. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!
LOVE hearing that and thanks so much for sharing. I'm obviously not a professional drywaller so its great to hear from someone that has used this product on a larger scale and I completely agree with everything you said. Thanks so much for the support.
I worked as a 'Drywall Punch out Tech' for a number of years, there are a few "quick set' products which cure in as little as 5 minutes, we used 15 and 20 minute mud for bigger repairs, A job like yours could be finnished and painted in one working day.
I redid a basement that is notorious for flooding. I found some 1/2" "dirty" and nicked Azek board very inexpensive and ripped to 3" and ran that along the floor before drywall, installed drywall on top of that then 3-1/2" trim to cover the Azek. Next time a few inches of water entered, popped off the trim, dried everything and put the trim back on. Not a perfect solution but works:). Another water prone basement did Azek bead board to chair rail height:). Just grateful I have a dry basement!
just a note, to people watching, you shouldnt be using air drying mud (bucket or box mud) to tape mesh tape. you should be using setting type (powder) muds. It can be done, but it has a higher chance to crack over time. its probably fine in this specific video because i think that additive turns the bucket mud into a type of quick setting mud.
That’s exactly why mesh tape gets a bad name. People doing drywall that don’t know what they are doing. You can not use regular joint compound for the 1st coat over mesh tape it will crack a 100% of the time. Over time it will crack guaranteed
5 min quickset works just like all this stuff,you probably paid top dollar for that bag ,hr and a half is way long to wait between coats,5 and 15min qs works wonders
Ya how do I listen to you when your mudding knife skills suck I would have had that muted up in 60 seconds and I am only a cabinet maker.... Hot mud hot mud hot mud.
Pro Drywall tip. Mesh tape is only intended for small patches, not lengthy seams and will result in a hairline crack over time. Paper tape or Fiba Tape. I found this out the hard way when i first started out and all that hard work down the drain will make you lose sleep trust me😅
its used in conjunction with Durabond mud, and yes it will always crack if used with regular mud. You should never have to sand very much just 220 at the end before painting. Just remember you are filling from one point to another its that easy if you understand the concept.
A few comments - I just had a similar project and using the quickset 20 minute was a mistake in my case too. If I would’ve just use the standard Muddskip product with an all purpose, I would’ve had zero sand which I quickly saw on the other side of my project when I changed. One other comment on the fire retardant test you need two layers of the drywall mud and two layers of the Muddakip. That’s where you’ll see a big difference.
i was taught the sanding wasn't just to smooth the drywall. it makes a huge difference when painting the wall. most common example is when a doorknob gets punched through a wall. Patch the wall, don't sand it, then paint it. it will forever be a very shiny patch that stands out dramatically on the wall. sanding drywall prevents that.
I appreciate the comments from pros who have a critique about what not to do, what to do, etc. and all I can say is, you guys are pros for a reason but us little guys who have two kids in school to pay for, these products helpful because I have no choice but to do the work myself. I grew up with real plaster and wanted real plaster skim coat. Oh what a mess and omg, pull your hair out frustrating when you're a novice. 3 coats of real plaster and I finally had to resort to drywall mud to get a final skim to smooth it out. Tried water, skimming blade - name it, I've tried it and I just plain suck at drywall. I finally got it done satisfactorily enough for my (probably ridiculously high) standards but I'll never do that again. it was a 19.x20 room and I'm 5'1 and petite. I'll be adding this product to my mix for the next project coming up. I hate regular mud because it chips so easily, even with paint. I prefer the fiber type tape for seams.
In the late 1990's, I built my own house but had a professional drywaller do the taping; he never did any sanding and used regular drywall mud but he watered it down to a consistency he liked. If memory serves me correctly, it might have been regular drywall mud followed by the "lite" type mud for the subsequent coats. He troweled on the finishing coats with varying lengths of taping trowels, very thin, like paper, and it came out great. Then, for the final coats, I sprayed a "knockdown" on the walls with a hopper gun and "knocked" that down with my 10" to 14" taping trowels. Never sanded anything that I can remember and it came out great after painting.
A note on sanding. Apply setting compound in layers and use your drywall knives to scrape the peaks off when set. Then apply finish coats and scrape. Final touch-up will require minimal sanding.
As an amateur I also scrape instead of sanding. It still takes me "a bit of forever" to finish my small patch. But I dislike the sanding part. So the time spent is worth it at least for me
Great video Brent. Couple pro tips - Fire retardant - Muddskip with Hot Mud performs amazing. Confirmed with Manufacturer, should not use premix mud for fire resistance. Also, don't need Hotmud when you using this Muddskip additive, game changer for crews because it saves time. All the no sanding doubters should try it, it works!
Thanks for this video - I learned a great deal! This ranks VERY high on my list of invaluable home repair tips!!! I’ve never seen any of your other uploads, but I agree that the saved time and energy by using these products was well worth dedicating a video to them.
I'm 67 years old and one (or maybe two) days of resting up between coats is just fine with me! But I'm working on my own home with no customer breathing down my neck. I can see how a one-day installation would be fantastic for professionals. Speaking of one day, there is an annual "House-In-A-Day" project as a fundraiser in my area. I would never want to own one of those houses but I have been curious how they do it--especially the drywall. Maybe this is how.
The absolute best way to mud without sanding is....applying the mud properly in the first place. I learned this years ago and haven't sanded in 20 years. Yes it's an art that anyone can do.
FYI - You can do the same thing with Setting-type joint compound by adding Potassium Alum. Potassium Alum is used for pickling. It is sold in grocery stores as the spice "Alum" . Mix up a batch of long set time (90 - 120 minutes) Setting-type joint compound. Load your trowel, then sprinkle a little Alum to the compound on the trowel and mix it in. Then apply the mixed compound to the wall. The Alum will activate the compound on the trowel so it will set in a few minutes. Then repeat the process with more coats. Each coat mixed on the trowel as before. Be careful to clean the trowel before reloading because the Alum can activate the main batch..
If you prefill joints with confill before applying tape it sets up within 45 minutes then you can take it with synko taping mud "yellow" box it will adhere to the confill as it has glues in the mud. Then tou can coat over that after 20 minutes with synko classic finish ( red box ) if you feather it out enough and let it dry properly so there's no delayed shrink back use heater and fan and crack open a window for ventilation. Can sand most things next day . Works great for small projects
Yo' Jordan, I'm no Mudder yet I come from another Mudder. When I seen this clip I stopped to hear what was being said...just like you, the first thing I could think was just, how much does this product cost and Synko Concrete Fill!... as for your comment of pre filling the joint with Con-Fiil, that's brilliant idea that I didn't think of.. The thought comes now is, due to the hardness of the Con-fill would the joint not crack behind the tape and provide a future repair?.... as for the concept I'm going to try it. I once suggested Con-Fill product to a person who lives in the USA... They have informed me he could not purchase this product in the US. Con-fill comes in large 25Kg (that's 50lbs ish) and a little can go along way... just another note: Stay away from mesh tape on butt joints, it will always provide entertainment you wont want... and thanks Jordan for posting...
Check out prc taper. Also you don’t need to sand between coats just scrape any over laps or lines left from the previous coat . Use 45 minute instead of 20 and it still dries pretty fast with a fan in the area . All in all it looks perfectly fine .. from my house lol :)
Old school, here. I prefer 5 min bag, for tape, 20 min bag, and +3 joint compound for topper/ finish. Only scraping first two coats. And if it is a smaller job. Using damp sponge method. Sanding only on larger jobs.
You sound like you're a taper loll. Using sheetrock and being able to skim the fine working lines takes years of experience especially if you're dealing with bigger patches and/or butt joints. For the average guy they are better off just using regular mud, sand it down properly and then applying another 10 coats til it's smooth. Loll.
I have to try this. I hate mudding for the very reason of sanding. I do have a question of whether or not I can use this concoction to patch plaster walls. I have a reno project in mind where the walls have sections of plaster up to 10" wide and other areas riddled with small nail holes. My idea was to place 3/8 SR and just start from there. But if this stuff combined with the skimming blade would work..... A very well done video, thanks
I use cornice cement, then mix in plaster accelerator each hawk load. Once the cornice cement has set ,then scrape off high spots. I can use the same bucket of cornice cement for both coats. Because the accelerator set the cement from hawk in 5 minutes. Once the second coat is touch dry then a wet sponge over and "polish" for a near perfect finish. I only use this method occasionally. More for the practice and to keep me amused during a day of drywall. Used mainly on small concrete ceilings and previously cement rendered walls.
Pro Tip 1. Always use a fill coat first on those cracks/joints Pro Tip 2. Use FibaFuse tape in preference to mesh or paper Pro Tip 3.SAND - if you want a good finish
I always use a harsh side light for mudding AND painting. And I just haven't had good luck with wet sanding on large surfaces, especially if the wall is not textured. It ends up looking smooth at first, but the wet sponge tends to follow ridges and valleys, instead of making it all smooth. I've done wet sanding on patches, when its on a textured wall. That seems to work out great.
Something else you can add to a video. When applying mud run your trowel in the same direction as the seam. Put your index finger on the side of the trowel that is away from the seam. What that does is adds a little more pressure on the outside giving you a more feathered edge (less sanding). I personally never sand mud. I have sponges that you use for grouting ceramic tiles that have an abrasive side. Wait until your mud is 95% dry, wet your sponge and use a circular motion over the mud. The sponge will take down the high spots and the excess mud on your sponge will fill in any lines or crevices. The wax on, wax off method will make it so there won’t be any dust in the room.
We used vertical vinyl siding on the bottom foot of the wall in the garage. That way you can hose the floor without wetting the drywall and no worry of water seeping in from outside damaging the wallboard.
I am going to have to try it. I am on basement 16 in the past 4 years, 2 more booked. This would help with the drying process which is always my problem.
Interesting product. It seems like you have to be fast or not mix too much if I understand it right. I like that tip of using a misting sprayer. A tool I found that I really like is a 14" Tex Master Magic Trowel. It has a firm rubber blade that is tapered at the ends. It would work well with this product. Good video.
You should try shooting the mud through a mark 5 sprayer . I use that for skim coating sand finish ceilings and foyers so you don’t see joints from The torn up recycled paper wall board they make today. . Works really well
After paying a professional handyman to do a few jobs and watching him along with asking some direct questions, I have the following tips: 1. MIX MUD YOURSELF -- Stay away from the pre-mixed stuff. I used this until seeing that my handyman only used dry bags that he mixed. Get either a 20 min or 45 min bag and mix in your own water. However ONLY mix small amounts that you will use within the time listed on the bag. I learned by using the leftover's he'd after a job. Initially I wasted 20 min bags because I mixed too much so i preferred the 45 bags but now I can use either with tip #2. These bags are around $10-15 and they wont spoil or harden if the lid is left open too long and/or not put on tightly. most likely you'll only need 1 or 2 bags in your lifetime unless you are doing a huge job. NOTE: My handyman says the dray bag also result in a stronger wall and patch. 2. SPEED UP DRYING with a HEAT GUN -- Regardless of using 20 min, 45 min, or the premixed stuff you can speed up drying times so you can do multiple coats in a single day. The way to do this is to get a heat gun and set it up after your coat is done. You can get a heat gun for less than $30. Depending on how good you are you can even reduce the times listed on the bag. BONUS: This also speeds up the drying timeframe paint and stains.. and you can also use the tool for some crafts and/or paint stripping. 3. REDUCE OR ELIMINATE CLEANUP - Buy a vacuum sander. This is a shop vacuum attachment that will result in little, if any, clean up after sanding. I paid around $20-25 dollars several years ago, it is about $31 now, still worth it!!
As as old plasterer fist mistake you made was using greenboard in a wet area! You should use cement sheet here in OZ preferably Villa board, second mistake was using easytape and not paper tape. Third was if you wanting a quick job use a plaster with a 120 minute usage time or if you can you can use shorter Harding mix. You can put two coats of those then scrape the joint down when the mud is still wet but hard! Then you use a air drying plaster that is called a top coat! If you are good enough you shouldn't need to sand much at all. You are going to have to repeat this repair in a couple of years as the moisture works its way through that green board! Plaster and moisture don't mix cement sheet is used in all bathrooms and laundrys here. Cheers from OZ
i appreciate the honesty in this setup. if this were my home i'd be sufficiently happy. i am not a professional and while i appreciate the skill and efficiency of am professional, i don't think they are worth the price they charge for the last little bit of perfection (which even they don't always provide). i do things for myself not only to save money but also to learn; and because professionals are increasingly less reliable, less professional and simultaneously more pricy. there are certainly times and places where a truly skilled professionals are well worth the cost, but it isn't clear which ones are worth the cost until it is too late, which means d.i.y is still often better in those cases.
Ok I deleted a novel Short of version is The fancy added stuff isn't no sand..... Thinner smooth coats and correct mud and process equals less sanding and mess and time lol U can use 20min mud to do that job in one day.... When it stops looking dark/wet you can coat it just be careful knocking down edges sanding between coats Light sanding is better than effing with mud slop Bucket of hard with some 20min mixed in will dry quick and is a little more forgiving and get a mud pan and some mud knives and good luck big guy.... Video was a great home owner style clip which I do love....overall this video gets a true thumbs up for the information and your genuine disposition and honesty.... I subscribed being this is my first video from you.... Look forward to others in the future.... That skimmer knife was cool tho I might check that out
Here's a quick drywall story ; I used to add liquid dish soap to my fast set mud( not to much, a little goes a long way) and it made it nice and smooth. Then wet sponge the edges in between coats. The only time i used mesh tape was on corner bead . Fiba-fuse works good ( it's blister proof ) on the joints with paper tape on the angels. The End.
ANOTHER GIMMICK ! Do same exact thing with Easy Sand, for under $10 ! Never use premix on mesh tape ! I Use 5, for samller repairs and taping, 20 for most repairs and taping, or 90, if I have a large area. Or, I'll run 20, the entire job, remix in mud pan with a mixer from Menards. They have small paddle mixer, metal rod, black end,.. It works perfect in mud pans. Do not get air in your mix. Keep paddle submerged, or mix will dry in about half the time. Tho, that could be a good thing at times. One more tip.. for the newbie's... The number on setting mud is NOT dry time... it's set time ! It needs 24 to 48, sometimes longer, depending on thickness, air temp, and humidity, or primer will peel ! Believe me, I've tried to rush it, more than once. Always paid the price. You can use hair dryer or heat gun, to set it off, help get a 2nd coat, if your in a rush. Run it thin enough, use 5, dry with heat gun, slowly, prime, paint, within minutes. I wouldn't rush dry time on a high dollar job, but, 911's or low proffit jobs, I do it all the time. Mix a little wet, so mud flows, tilt pan end to end as you mix. Using 20, individual pans may take a few minutes longer, due to cleaning in between, but, you have less tools to carry around, you mix what you need, mix to desired thickness. After 20 minutes, apply your 2nd coat, a little thinner, skim, and your done. In rush job, where level 3 or 5 is not needed, I'll sponge the mud before I move to my next pan, dry with heat gun, prime, paint. Never sanding anything. All mud goes on same Bat time, same Bat place ! Don't mistake Durabind for Easy Sand. You will only confuse the two once. Lol (Durabond "can be" sanded, but, it's like sanding steel compared to soft wood. ) Never use 2 types of mud, on a finish coat. As you sand, you could, will, break thru to the different type, and, the two will sand differently, leaving holes and craters that are a huge pain to repair. Hope all this helps someone. I learned the hard way, and, I'm still learning ways to improve speed and quality. Absolutely no need for this mix ! ! ! Just another DAM. GIMMICK ! ! !
Ever use "one pass"? It kind of works like a plaster because you can wet it (I usually use it on 2nd or 3rd coat) before it is completely set and smooth it out. Sand after 90 minutes and paint the same day
This is the best comment on this thread but it's geared for professionals and not DIYer's. Most homeowners/DIYer's are thinking...what the hell is this guy talking about? Any professional will tell you that his comment is spot on.
Strong sideways light shows you the imperfections while mudding and sanding AND darkening the room enhances the effect of the light. If you have no shutters you can darken the room with trashbags and masking tape. Forgive my English God bless you from a Serb.
People have been doing white coat plaster since the 1200s , it’s a great system that does take some skill. This is a neat little idea , maybe it will bring back plaster more . You can smooth out 20 , 45and 90 set also without that stuff you’re using I do it all the time.
Uh, not sure why that’s sad. He had a pretty decent channel with 500k subs, and the video has 1.1 million views. He prioritized a project to create a video for his channel? Not sure why that is sad.
When I have wide gaps to fill I use Bondo. It hardens in minutes. And I apply it leaving only a small enough void to fill with one application of dry wall patch. Usually within an hour the thin layer of patch dries and doesn't sink enough that I have to apply more. Light sanding and I'm ready to paint.
I just finished drywalling my 54sq ft cabin ans thia could have been a game changer! I am a hack so i use more mud than a pro would which means i have to sand a lot.....this would have helped!
i am a novice but i stopped sanding back in the 80's after i saw a drywall company doing walls in a mall. water and a sponge! however this product for the not having to wait is cool
When I learned how to do drywall, way back in the early 2k's, we did three coats, first with a six inch, then with an 8-10 inch and finaliziing with a 12" and we almost had no sanding. I think the wider blades, like the 12" or the skimming blade, plays more of an effect than the additive. That being said, its just a theory, ive never used mudskip, so I cant say for certain.
I've been doing it since 1994 I've worked with the best and worst in the profession. Honestly if your customer has no clue, they wouldn't see your mistakes even after you pointed them out. But if other pro tapers are in the room, they can see every micro bump, dimple, line or crack, crevice or crease. Instantly. From the six to the twelve your either applying with fines or very skilled but the wider the blade the better you cover up the mess. People without training or experience will always need to sand and if your a perfectionist your ganna sand. If you don't care one way or the other, then you don't have to.
This is totally satisfying to watch however I need to find a drywall handyman lol I just moved into a house that didn’t finish the walls. I ripped off hideous wallpaper that they had painted over and the drywall was nevermudded. This is my life lol
Back in the day they use to add Ivory liquid dish soap to smooth the mud, the skimming blade tool you showed is a plaster tool because you don't always sand plaster jobs over lathe, these are gimmicks and a pro wouldn't need them to get the same results but it all needs to be sanded before paint whether it's the painter or the drywall man. After watching the finale, I have determined this is a soap of sorts and you used a lot of mud for the area, Drywall paint is for the paper not the mud so if you just do the seems and nails you could use the sealer paint but that's what good quality paint does at a cheaper price but thank you for entertaining us.
You can just get a longer setting mud , if you mist it with water , while its still damp , if you have a light enough hand , you can just lightly scrape the mud lines off and then finish with a very fine mud also longer setting. However , after that is done and set , I would still go back with a very fine sanding pad on the edges of the mud and drywall.
@@Avital4414 Sand wall with 40 grit. Use cornice cement(maybe called cove adhesive in the USA) It is an adhesive so will stick to paint a bit better than plasters. Best finish will be 1st coat cornice cement ,scrape high spots back once set,Then a top coat and sand.
Exactly right but with muddskip you won’t need to sand at all. Also and more importantly, u can reply next coat as soon as it’s dry to touch. So wet on wet coats, in minutes not days!
Sheetrock Durabond comes in 90 minute 45 min.30 min and 20 min dry time. One part mix with water does the same thing. A sponge float will smooth the surface. You can shave any high spots with a taping knife before it becomes super hard. If you are concerned with moisture add a little latex to the mix though it may slow the dry time.
Small tip, run your trowel up the outside corner to remove excess Mud. I see too many here leaving the buildup and makes a bad corner. Always clean up your beads.
LOL! Way to keep it honest and positive. Nothing more satisfying to see in my book then an expert drywall taper. Obviously it takes years of practice to be as officiant as your guys are. Thanks so much for watching.
After installing drywall coat with 20 min mud and fill all voids. Then tape and mud. Make sure you don't leave messes behind. Fether all edges when mud is wet. Do not play with the mud put it on smooth and do not fiddle with it afterwards.
I've done drywall professionally. There are drywall knives with handles that make it real easy to hold the blade and make the surface as smooth as possible. You have to have the blade sharpened before you use it.
We need a paint product being like this that has some grains to build thickness that you can paint over before drying fully. Paint with grains that fills those imperfections, you brush it on, then use roller or paint brush to add a top layer that forms the "mirror"-finish
I use lightweight mud on everything. Air pockets are your enemy when taping and mudding, so as long as you get 100% coverage, your tape will never let go or crack. I can go back to any mudding job I've done in the past 15 years and they are all still perfect. If you need to sand in between coats you are putting too much. In mudding, less is more. I only ever sand after final coat. Just scrape any edges left from the trowel
Man for over 30 years I've been drywalling repairs wrong.. I use the mesh but I use 5 min on the set coat and a 2nd coat as soon as it's set up .then a finish coat of ready nix mud within a couple hrs ..then I use a touch up coat for surface scratches the next day if I didn't use a hairdryer to speed up the dry time. Or sand out the surface then texture with a can of texture or set up a hopper and Air compressor..and then prime and paint once texture is dry..now that's a must.😂
Ps you don't drywall the whole area...just the seems..the way you did that that's the way you might do plaster...but I've done plaster repair to, just not that many ..
I use easy sand 20 and use all these same techniques and they work without the extra expense. I use a M-Town plaster trowel and a hawk. I use a solo bottle with fine mist and mud it up like plaster. This product seems like its an additive that could easily be skipped just by doing the same technique with regular hot mud.
Brown bag Durabond 90 is my go to for almost any project. It hardens like plaster and is perfect for corner bead. Easy sand 20-45-90 is garbage in my opinion and experience. Finish with a final coat of all purpose joint compound. Little to no sanding needed if you’re good at slinging mud.
Older video, but why not something like Goboard? It's basically waterproof and won't wick water upwards. You can also pretty much seal it to the floor effectively creating a waterproof barrier. Wouldn't suggest it everywhere of course, but in a garage that's prone to water damage I would.
Product now available on Amazon if interested. Thanks for watching: Muddskip (Level 5 Smooth): amzn.to/3WnuKPa
Just a thought.....in your example here, you're replacing the lower portion of your garage wallboard because the garage flooded... Yes, wallboard will wick up water....so, may I suggest you install the new wallboard leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch gap at the floor to keep the wallboard from getting wet, if the garage floods again. That gap is then easily covered with any base molding.
Us professionals use a 3/4 inch piece of Plywood treated preferably...and would also use a Mold & Moisture Resistant Drywall
@@zsavage1820 DensGlass 5/8-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Mold Resistant Moisture Resistant Regular Drywall Panel
cement board
We Use Smart Panel In Areas Like This! Or A 1x8 Trim Board Around The Entire Utility Room! We Always Keep The Board Up Off Of The Floor Even In The Upstairs Rooms! Drywall Is Sized To Be Short Of The Stud Wall Height! That Is Why You Always put The Top Row On First! I Agree With Your Comment 100%
@@briancasey3421 Best advice! skim over leaving 3 inches exposed on bottom, trim will cover that.
I’m not a professional, but I have some tips that have worked very well for me that I learned from professionals. 1) you don’t need to buy fancy stuff to modify your mud. You can use Fixall or Durahm’s rock hard putty to get your topper or joint compound to set very quickly.
2)You also never have to sand. As soon as you start seeing the mud start to dry, you can use a slightly wet, grout sponge to smooth the surface. It’ll take some practice, but once you get good at it, your drywalling jobs will be very quick and clean.
Wet sanding is not fun
Durhams has something in it that can cause continuous bleeding through certain wall coatings like American Clay and perhaps a flat paint. Durhams is an expensive solution too, I would just use hot mud.
Thank you for your this info, I detest sanding!🤣
@pmhardison wet sanding is easier, faster, quieter, and cleaner than dry sanding, and I much prefer it over dry sanding. Not sure why you thing it is difficult, care to explain?
@@Erklzanderz wet sanding drywall, clogs sandpaper and mesh and can damage paper faster. I do wet sand with a sponge and dampen and trowel when not fully cured.
Awesome vid! I appreciate you sharing. The cut down in drywall dust and clean up alone is a definite selling point. Such a pain tarping off areas of the job within an occupied home, trying to contain dust. It's a waste of time, money for plastic tarps, tape etc. these additives make a huge difference. And an additional money and time saver is not having to wait on drying time. Love it! Thanks again. 👍
Here’s some words of advice from a 40 year Drywall pro that I teach on my channel. One is a video like this makes it look easier and makes it look like it came out better than it did. When you light drywall work at a 90° angle it hides most of the defects so you don’t see them on videos like this. The big DIY shows major network shows do the same thing.
Next as many have pointed out that you should never use regular compound with mesh tape. I’ve put on at least 500 rolls of mesh tape with no problem because I always use fast setting joint compound as it is required.
So watch videos like this and support their channel but realize that you don’t want to take too much advice from videos like this. I try to simplify it for everybody and give you the right advice so that you can do it right.
I’m going to have to test out that product myself someday
I’m not a pro but have done a fair amount of mud over a few decades. The guy who taught me always added a heathy squirt of liquid detergent to the bucket, whether it was regular compound or ez-sand. Amazing how smooth that makes the skim coats. I do everything with just a bread pan and a 4 and 12 inch knife. I usually use paper tape, and wet it in my cleaning bucket before applying. Seems to bed better.
This feels more like self promotion vs good advice
@@SrsGraphics then you obviously don’t understand Drywall or don’t care
use 45 minute drywall powder. pre mixed buckets always shrinks and need layers added
@@CorwinRussell I like the powder better for how fast it sets up, but to feather it’s still a bed coat and two skim coats just like bucket mud.
A man that says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light.
I'm with you Donkey except I would have phrased it in a Confucius form...man who does not sand mud has not seen the light
@@uncleronny6748 🤣😂
LMAO! Man you hit the nail right square on the head! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You do not need to sand drywall, you just need to know how to plaster!!!!
So, speaking of “sanding drywall, or the lack there of, and a light”, have any of you ever took a flashlight, turned it on and laid it on the wall so that the light is shining over the surface of the wall??? Hell, now that I think about it, maybe that is exactly what you were referring to with your “man who says you don’t have to sand drywall, needs a light” comment!?!?!? Oh well, if so, then that most likely was not my brightest moment. Anywho, I have done this “flashlight” trick, or whatever you might want to call it, on a ton of walls and even a ton of floors, as well. This trick does NOT work on floors with carpet!!! It has to be done on hard floors, such as vinyl, hardwood, concrete and any other kind of floor that has a flat surface. Now, if you have done this “flashlight” trick before then I’m fairly certain that you know exactly where I’m going with this… and if you haven’t ever does this then you will be absolutely stunned if you ever decide to do so. Which, by the way, I highly recommend that you try this “flashlight” trick, for yourself, so that you can see exactly what it is that I am talking about. So anyways, moving forward, for the absolute best results and to ensure that you experience maximum viewing pleasure, you will definitely want to turn off any and all of the lights that are on and/or illuminating the room that you’re in… then, once it’s nice and mostly dark, turn your flashlight on and then lay the flashlight on the wall and focus your attention and look where the light is shining on and across the wall. You’ll want to move the flashlight around and hit all of the different parts of the wall. What do you see??? EVERY SINGLE TINY IMPERFECTION, from the original drywall work when the sheet rock was first hung, any and all repairs done since, high and low spots, dust and dirt, and a myriad of other things. Now, move to the next wall and check it out. You can do this throughout your entire house, office or any building for that matter. However, before doing this, “IF” you suffer from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, of ANY other kind of mental issues, for that matter, that are similar, in nature, to O.C.D. to where you’re not even remotely close to being satisfied unless stuff you see is absolutely perfect and/or any other things that aren’t perfect bother you and/or any little imperfections that you’re aware of just absolutely drive you insane until you fix and/or remedy them, then I would highly recommend and suggest, for your very own well being, that you do NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT, ever put a flashlight on a wall or a floor!!! Simply put, you very well may not ever leave!!! There are so many imperfections on every single wall ever built!!! And then when you’re finished with the walls, take and lay the flashlight on the floor and move it around… you see all of the imperfections, damage, high spots, low spots, but what do you see the most of??? DUST AND DIRT… ITS EVERYWHERE!!! Even if you just cleaned the floor yourself and you thought it was perfect!!! I have told my wife before, when she finished thoroughly sweeping and mopping the floor, “now, just how clean do you think that floor is that you just cleaned???”… and she said, “I’d almost eat off of it, that’s how clean it is… because I KNOW how to clean!!!”. Well fellas, that’s when, and this was the very first and the very LAST time that I was bone-headed and stupid enough to ever even pulled this stunt with my wife… and furthermore I would highly recommend that none of you try it either, simply due to the fact that there is absolutely NO GOOD OUTCOME, for any of you, in this exchange!!! But anywho, that’s not here nor there, I got my flashlight, turned it on… I could see the smirk on her face as I was kneeling down to put the flashlight on the floor when she condescendingly said something about, “WHAT’S THAT SUPPOSED TO DO???”… and I said, “watch this honey”… you would not believe just how quick I grabbed the flashlight, turned it off and made a futile attempt at changing the subject just as quick as I could, to absolutely no avail!!! She was angry as a hornet for about the next day or so!!! Long story short… do not try this “flashlight” trick if you suffer from O.C.D. and/or you’re trying to prove a point with your wife right after she finished cleaning the floors!!! 😂😂😂
Drywall YT channels worth checking out:
-That Kilted Guy
-Vancouver Carpenter
-Home Renovision
Don't forget Laurier Desormeaux. Vancarp is enjoyable :)
Always use quickset mud with mesh tape. Regular bucket mud will shrink and crack on large gaps/ seam differences. I always use speed set 20 or 45 minute for 1st 2 coats (depending on job size) and 3rd coat gets "low dust" lite bucket mud. You MUST sand if you want it perfectly smooth. Texture prevents sanding but isnt popular anymore here. The "low dust" stuff settles to the floor quicker when sanding so dust isnt as bad. 3 coats in one day is no problem if its small job. I have used topping compound for a smoother finish on whole walls but I rarely mud the whole wall.
I knew a guy who said he sands with no dust. Yea he used wet method to feather edges and none of his repairs were flat. It looked horrible. Sanding with a hard block and screen knocks it flat quick then follow with sponge to feather edges
I also use 45-minute quick-set joint compound. It is possible to achieve a smooth finish by wet-sanding with a sponge, but you need to have the proper technique. I would only recommend wet-sanding for repair jobs, as it would take too long if you were working on new construction. I still sand the quick-set joint compound, if I'm working near interior corners.
word to the wise, you can get 40/ 90 min quick setting mud. As well, you can't use that mesh tape with normal compound-- you CAN use it with the quickset.
i've used the mesh tape with proform compound for 3 decades??? but then again i was raised democrat and learned that's communism practiced by really dumb people. 1984 and animal farm, go read them, other wise don't cry sheepy
Also need to prefill that joint before taping to prevent future cracking. I suspect that this additive is "mostly" plaster of Paris which will essentially turn that premixed mud into a fast set mud (no shrinking when drying - the expansion of the plaster of Paris compensates for the shrinking of the water based mud) so that mesh tape might be fine with this additive.
@@wally7856 Mesh tape isn't necessary for small cracks - just for big gaps. What he was doing is a little counterintuitive. It only makes for the having to use more mud than necessary. But yeah this product is sort of an overkill unless you have multiple walls and are trying to do a professional job and get done in as little time as possible.
I've never had a problem using the mesh tape with premixed compound, but I always prefill the gap. I wouldn't recommend that combination to anyone who expects to push the first application of compound through the tape.
@@solarismoon3046 Premix shrinks a lot, if prefilling I would only use hot mud.
I've been doing drywall for almost 20 years and still don't always get my timing right on every coat 🥴 it's okay, though, because this is your house AND you're learning while doing it, in the event you may need it in the future! ❤
@@keithmarlowe5569 scuff it up with some sandpaper and then patch what you need to, and always feather your edges! ;) if it's not a very obvious spot, just cover it with a picture 🥴🤣
That's a dynamite attitude and outlook, and too many "pros" overlook this reality in the rush to crap on someone willing to venture into "sacred territory".
The other variable often ignored is being able to even get someone to come do such little projects, or for such a huge cost that it makes it worthwhile for the average homeowner to at least practice and expand their possibilities and skills
Great video Brent. I have used this product and it is awesome. As others have mentioned, while it does make hot/setting mud easier to apply, you really don't need to use it because Muddskip allows you to add more layers without waiting until the next day. Hot mud or setting mud is notoriously hard to apply and very hard to sand. Your difficulty sanding I believe was related to the hot mud not the Muddskip. Also because 20 minute mud starts to set up very quickly, you often don't get a smooth surface unless you are very fast. One of the very big benefits of Muddskip is NO SANDING! It also feathers very nicely. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!
LOVE hearing that and thanks so much for sharing. I'm obviously not a professional drywaller so its great to hear from someone that has used this product on a larger scale and I completely agree with everything you said. Thanks so much for the support.
I worked as a 'Drywall Punch out Tech' for a number of years, there are a few "quick set' products which cure in as little as 5 minutes, we used 15 and 20 minute mud for bigger repairs, A job like yours could be finnished and painted in one working day.
You can't paint any of those products in a day. They chemically harden but the moisture is still in it.
Thanks Brent, you are always introducing me to new products. Keep up the great work 🙌
Thanks for all the support along the way buddy. Keep up the amazing work on your channel as well.
I'm always so grateful for people that take the time out to make these helpful videos. Thank you for sharing 🤗😊
Ya this is a video of how NOT to fix a wall or crack....
I redid a basement that is notorious for flooding. I found some 1/2" "dirty" and nicked Azek board very inexpensive and ripped to 3" and ran that along the floor before drywall, installed drywall on top of that then 3-1/2" trim to cover the Azek. Next time a few inches of water entered, popped off the trim, dried everything and put the trim back on. Not a perfect solution but works:). Another water prone basement did Azek bead board to chair rail height:). Just grateful I have a dry basement!
Great video and Thank You so much for the shoutout Brent!💥👏🏻🙏😎
A drywall pro on Reddit says Muddskip works as advertised. When will you do a video with Muddskip... Paul?
just a note, to people watching, you shouldnt be using air drying mud (bucket or box mud) to tape mesh tape. you should be using setting type (powder) muds. It can be done, but it has a higher chance to crack over time. its probably fine in this specific video because i think that additive turns the bucket mud into a type of quick setting mud.
That’s exactly why mesh tape gets a bad name. People doing drywall that don’t know what they are doing. You can not use regular joint compound for the 1st coat over mesh tape it will crack a 100% of the time. Over time it will crack guaranteed
5 min quickset works just like all this stuff,you probably paid top dollar for that bag ,hr and a half is way long to wait between coats,5 and 15min qs works wonders
Ya how do I listen to you when your mudding knife skills suck I would have had that muted up in 60 seconds and I am only a cabinet maker.... Hot mud hot mud hot mud.
@rickybobby7229
I cannot work fast enough to use anything faster than 90 minute mid.
@@ecospider5 gotcha, I understand that
Pro Drywall tip. Mesh tape is only intended for small patches, not lengthy seams and will result in a hairline crack over time. Paper tape or Fiba Tape. I found this out the hard way when i first started out and all that hard work down the drain will make you lose sleep trust me😅
its used in conjunction with Durabond mud, and yes it will always crack if used with regular mud. You should never have to sand very much just 220 at the end before painting. Just remember you are filling from one point to another its that easy if you understand the concept.
I've seen plenty of cracks beside paper tape... indeed maybe it was applied to "dry" sheetrock
I was wondering.
I'm always replacing paper tape. Comes undone with any slight moisture. Instead use the mesh, then caulk the crack before mudding.
You only use mesh tape with hot mud.
A few comments - I just had a similar project and using the quickset 20 minute was a mistake in my case too. If I would’ve just use the standard Muddskip product with an all purpose, I would’ve had zero sand which I quickly saw on the other side of my project when I changed.
One other comment on the fire retardant test you need two layers of the drywall mud and two layers of the Muddakip. That’s where you’ll see a big difference.
i was taught the sanding wasn't just to smooth the drywall. it makes a huge difference when painting the wall. most common example is when a doorknob gets punched through a wall. Patch the wall, don't sand it, then paint it. it will forever be a very shiny patch that stands out dramatically on the wall. sanding drywall prevents that.
I appreciate the comments from pros who have a critique about what not to do, what to do, etc. and all I can say is, you guys are pros for a reason but us little guys who have two kids in school to pay for, these products helpful because I have no choice but to do the work myself. I grew up with real plaster and wanted real plaster skim coat. Oh what a mess and omg, pull your hair out frustrating when you're a novice. 3 coats of real plaster and I finally had to resort to drywall mud to get a final skim to smooth it out. Tried water, skimming blade - name it, I've tried it and I just plain suck at drywall. I finally got it done satisfactorily enough for my (probably ridiculously high) standards but I'll never do that again. it was a 19.x20 room and I'm 5'1 and petite. I'll be adding this product to my mix for the next project coming up. I hate regular mud because it chips so easily, even with paint. I prefer the fiber type tape for seams.
I knew a guy who would let his joints set up a few minutes and then do a wipe with a wet sponge andthe sanding was minimum worked good..
I've done that myself in the past with fair results. I believe at the time it was called 'wet sanding'.
In the late 1990's, I built my own house but had a professional drywaller do the taping; he never did any sanding and used regular drywall mud but he watered it down to a consistency he liked. If memory serves me correctly, it might have been regular drywall mud followed by the "lite" type mud for the subsequent coats. He troweled on the finishing coats with varying lengths of taping trowels, very thin, like paper, and it came out great. Then, for the final coats, I sprayed a "knockdown" on the walls with a hopper gun and "knocked" that down with my 10" to 14" taping trowels. Never sanded anything that I can remember and it came out great after painting.
I think your knockdown hid a lot of issues.
@@demophys4883That is why popcorn ceilings were popular with builders. Just spray it on, no finishing, and no sanding.
The whole point of texturing wall sis to hide the imperfections, although most texture jobs are nothing but exaggerated imperfections.
@@demophys4883 I'm sure it did, but it saved me a lot of sanding and it still looked great after it was painted.
Sanding results in a layer of dust that if not thoroughly cleaned and sealed can result in paint that peels off.
Awesome presentation and especially being transparent of your skill set 👍👍👍👍👍this I’m sharing on my facebook page thank you great job👏👏👏
I think that you’ll still need to sand the final coat no matter what. But speeding up the application of coats is key.
A note on sanding. Apply setting compound in layers and use your drywall knives to scrape the peaks off when set. Then apply finish coats and scrape. Final touch-up will require minimal sanding.
As an amateur I also scrape instead of sanding. It still takes me "a bit of forever" to finish my small patch. But I dislike the sanding part. So the time spent is worth it at least for me
Great video Brent. Couple pro tips - Fire retardant - Muddskip with Hot Mud performs amazing. Confirmed with Manufacturer, should not use premix mud for fire resistance. Also, don't need Hotmud when you using this Muddskip additive, game changer for crews because it saves time. All the no sanding doubters should try it, it works!
Thanks for this video - I learned a great deal! This ranks VERY high on my list of invaluable home repair tips!!!
I’ve never seen any of your other uploads, but I agree that the saved time and energy by using these products was well worth dedicating a video to them.
I'm 67 years old and one (or maybe two) days of resting up between coats is just fine with me! But I'm working on my own home with no customer breathing down my neck. I can see how a one-day installation would be fantastic for professionals. Speaking of one day, there is an annual "House-In-A-Day" project as a fundraiser in my area. I would never want to own one of those houses but I have been curious how they do it--especially the drywall. Maybe this is how.
The absolute best way to mud without sanding is....applying the mud properly in the first place. I learned this years ago and haven't sanded in 20 years. Yes it's an art that anyone can do.
Thank you for taking the time to share this product. I would like to try it out with future projects.
FYI - You can do the same thing with Setting-type joint compound by adding Potassium Alum. Potassium Alum is used for pickling. It is sold in grocery stores as the spice "Alum" .
Mix up a batch of long set time (90 - 120 minutes) Setting-type joint compound. Load your trowel, then sprinkle a little Alum to the compound on the trowel and mix it in. Then apply the mixed compound to the wall.
The Alum will activate the compound on the trowel so it will set in a few minutes. Then repeat the process with more coats. Each coat mixed on the trowel as before.
Be careful to clean the trowel before reloading because the Alum can activate the main batch..
This was an awesome video 👍🏾 Keep ‘em coming, man!
Your videos are always very well done. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
If you prefill joints with confill before applying tape it sets up within 45 minutes then you can take it with synko taping mud "yellow" box it will adhere to the confill as it has glues in the mud. Then tou can coat over that after 20 minutes with synko classic finish ( red box ) if you feather it out enough and let it dry properly so there's no delayed shrink back use heater and fan and crack open a window for ventilation. Can sand most things next day . Works great for small projects
Yo' Jordan, I'm no Mudder yet I come from another Mudder. When I seen this clip I stopped to hear what was being said...just like you, the first thing I could think was just, how much does this product cost and Synko Concrete Fill!... as for your comment of pre filling the joint with Con-Fiil, that's brilliant idea that I didn't think of.. The thought comes now is, due to the hardness of the Con-fill would the joint not crack behind the tape and provide a future repair?.... as for the concept I'm going to try it. I once suggested Con-Fill product to a person who lives in the USA... They have informed me he could not purchase this product in the US. Con-fill comes in large 25Kg (that's 50lbs ish) and a little can go along way... just another note: Stay away from mesh tape on butt joints, it will always provide entertainment you wont want... and thanks Jordan for posting...
Very specific language
I can see an advantage to using this on ceilings that aren't being textured after finishing.
Check out prc taper. Also you don’t need to sand between coats just scrape any over laps or lines left from the previous coat . Use 45 minute instead of 20 and it still dries pretty fast with a fan in the area . All in all it looks perfectly fine .. from my house lol :)
Old school, here. I prefer 5 min bag, for tape, 20 min bag, and +3 joint compound for topper/ finish.
Only scraping first two coats. And if it is a smaller job. Using damp sponge method. Sanding only on larger jobs.
You sound like you're a taper loll. Using sheetrock and being able to skim the fine working lines takes years of experience especially if you're dealing with bigger patches and/or butt joints. For the average guy they are better off just using regular mud, sand it down properly and then applying another 10 coats til it's smooth. Loll.
I have to try this. I hate mudding for the very reason of sanding. I do have a question of whether or not I can use this concoction to patch plaster walls. I have a reno project in mind where the walls have sections of plaster up to 10" wide and other areas riddled with small nail holes. My idea was to place 3/8 SR and just start from there. But if this stuff combined with the skimming blade would work..... A very well done video, thanks
I use cornice cement, then mix in plaster accelerator each hawk load. Once the cornice cement has set ,then scrape off high spots. I can use the same bucket of cornice cement for both coats. Because the accelerator set the cement from hawk in 5 minutes. Once the second coat is touch dry then a wet sponge over and "polish" for a near perfect finish. I only use this method occasionally. More for the practice and to keep me amused during a day of drywall. Used mainly on small concrete ceilings and previously cement rendered walls.
Pro Tip 1. Always use a fill coat first on those cracks/joints
Pro Tip 2. Use FibaFuse tape in preference to mesh or paper
Pro Tip 3.SAND - if you want a good finish
I always use a harsh side light for mudding AND painting. And I just haven't had good luck with wet sanding on large surfaces, especially if the wall is not textured. It ends up looking smooth at first, but the wet sponge tends to follow ridges and valleys, instead of making it all smooth. I've done wet sanding on patches, when its on a textured wall. That seems to work out great.
Something else you can add to a video. When applying mud run your trowel in the same direction as the seam. Put your index finger on the side of the trowel that is away from the seam. What that does is adds a little more pressure on the outside giving you a more feathered edge (less sanding). I personally never sand mud. I have sponges that you use for grouting ceramic tiles that have an abrasive side. Wait until your mud is 95% dry, wet your sponge and use a circular motion over the mud. The sponge will take down the high spots and the excess mud on your sponge will fill in any lines or crevices. The wax on, wax off method will make it so there won’t be any dust in the room.
We used vertical vinyl siding on the bottom foot of the wall in the garage. That way you can hose the floor without wetting the drywall and no worry of water seeping in from outside damaging the wallboard.
Can easily do that with regular quick set mud 😂
That small space
3 coats in 30mins
Done n done
I am going to have to try it. I am on basement 16 in the past 4 years, 2 more booked. This would help with the drying process which is always my problem.
I just ordered 4 bags.
At 2:56 God sent…..A 1000 thanks Seeing that I just ordered this and it’s been delivered today. You’re right there is no information about this.
Interesting product. It seems like you have to be fast or not mix too much if I understand it right. I like that tip of using a misting sprayer. A tool I found that I really like is a 14" Tex Master Magic Trowel. It has a firm rubber blade that is tapered at the ends. It would work well with this product. Good video.
Thanks for suggestion
You've got your technique down like a pro - great job! Cheers from Seattle!
For the standard I would apply in my Garage, that looks really good.
You should try shooting the mud through a mark 5 sprayer . I use that for skim coating sand finish ceilings and foyers so you don’t see joints from
The torn up recycled paper wall board they make today. . Works really well
After paying a professional handyman to do a few jobs and watching him along with asking some direct questions, I have the following tips:
1. MIX MUD YOURSELF -- Stay away from the pre-mixed stuff. I used this until seeing that my handyman only used dry bags that he mixed. Get either a 20 min or 45 min bag and mix in your own water. However ONLY mix small amounts that you will use within the time listed on the bag. I learned by using the leftover's he'd after a job. Initially I wasted 20 min bags because I mixed too much so i preferred the 45 bags but now I can use either with tip #2. These bags are around $10-15 and they wont spoil or harden if the lid is left open too long and/or not put on tightly. most likely you'll only need 1 or 2 bags in your lifetime unless you are doing a huge job. NOTE: My handyman says the dray bag also result in a stronger wall and patch.
2. SPEED UP DRYING with a HEAT GUN -- Regardless of using 20 min, 45 min, or the premixed stuff you can speed up drying times so you can do multiple coats in a single day. The way to do this is to get a heat gun and set it up after your coat is done. You can get a heat gun for less than $30. Depending on how good you are you can even reduce the times listed on the bag. BONUS: This also speeds up the drying timeframe paint and stains.. and you can also use the tool for some crafts and/or paint stripping.
3. REDUCE OR ELIMINATE CLEANUP - Buy a vacuum sander. This is a shop vacuum attachment that will result in little, if any, clean up after sanding. I paid around $20-25 dollars several years ago, it is about $31 now, still worth it!!
As as old plasterer fist mistake you made was using greenboard in a wet area! You should use cement sheet here in OZ preferably Villa board, second mistake was using easytape and not paper tape. Third was if you wanting a quick job use a plaster with a 120 minute usage time or if you can you can use shorter Harding mix.
You can put two coats of those then scrape the joint down when the mud is still wet but hard!
Then you use a air drying plaster that is called a top coat! If you are good enough you shouldn't need to sand much at all. You are going to have to repeat this repair in a couple of years as the moisture works its way through that green board! Plaster and moisture don't mix cement sheet is used in all bathrooms and laundrys here. Cheers from OZ
i appreciate the honesty in this setup. if this were my home i'd be sufficiently happy. i am not a professional and while i appreciate the skill and efficiency of am professional, i don't think they are worth the price they charge for the last little bit of perfection (which even they don't always provide). i do things for myself not only to save money but also to learn; and because professionals are increasingly less reliable, less professional and simultaneously more pricy. there are certainly times and places where a truly skilled professionals are well worth the cost, but it isn't clear which ones are worth the cost until it is too late, which means d.i.y is still often better in those cases.
Thanks for the info. I've problems with mesh tape and always use paper but use pretty wet mud to bed it down. Dry tape will bubble.
Dip the tape in water before applying.
Fibafuse fixes all problems with both products you mentioned. I don't know any professionals not using now.
Ok I deleted a novel
Short of version is
The fancy added stuff isn't no sand..... Thinner smooth coats and correct mud and process equals less sanding and mess and time lol
U can use 20min mud to do that job in one day.... When it stops looking dark/wet you can coat it just be careful knocking down edges sanding between coats
Light sanding is better than effing with mud slop
Bucket of hard with some 20min mixed in will dry quick and is a little more forgiving and get a mud pan and some mud knives and good luck big guy.... Video was a great home owner style clip which I do love....overall this video gets a true thumbs up for the information and your genuine disposition and honesty.... I subscribed being this is my first video from you.... Look forward to others in the future.... That skimmer knife was cool tho I might check that out
Here's a quick drywall story ; I used to add liquid dish soap to my fast set mud( not to much, a little goes a long way) and it made it nice and smooth. Then wet sponge the edges in between coats. The only time i used mesh tape was on corner bead . Fiba-fuse works good ( it's blister proof ) on the joints with paper tape on the angels. The End.
Really good you tube DYI video telling me something I did not know. keep it up.
I think the product is good and you did a good job
ANOTHER GIMMICK !
Do same exact thing with
Easy Sand, for under $10 !
Never use premix on mesh tape !
I Use 5, for samller repairs and taping, 20 for most repairs and taping, or 90, if I have a large area.
Or, I'll run 20, the entire job, remix in mud pan with a mixer from Menards.
They have small paddle mixer, metal rod, black end,..
It works perfect in mud pans.
Do not get air in your mix.
Keep paddle submerged, or mix will dry in about half the time.
Tho, that could be a good thing at times.
One more tip.. for the newbie's...
The number on setting mud is NOT dry time... it's set time !
It needs 24 to 48, sometimes longer, depending on thickness, air temp, and humidity, or primer will peel !
Believe me, I've tried to rush it, more than once.
Always paid the price.
You can use hair dryer or heat gun, to set it off, help get a 2nd coat, if your in a rush.
Run it thin enough, use 5, dry with heat gun, slowly, prime, paint, within minutes.
I wouldn't rush dry time on a high dollar job, but, 911's or low proffit jobs, I do it all the time.
Mix a little wet, so mud flows, tilt pan end to end as you mix.
Using 20, individual pans may take a few minutes longer, due to cleaning in between, but, you have less tools to carry around, you mix what you need, mix to desired thickness.
After 20 minutes, apply your 2nd coat, a little thinner, skim, and your done.
In rush job, where level 3 or 5 is not needed, I'll sponge the mud before I move to my next pan, dry with heat gun, prime, paint.
Never sanding anything.
All mud goes on same Bat time, same Bat place !
Don't mistake Durabind for Easy Sand.
You will only confuse the two once. Lol
(Durabond "can be" sanded, but, it's like sanding steel compared to soft wood. )
Never use 2 types of mud, on a finish coat.
As you sand, you could, will, break thru to the different type, and, the two will sand differently, leaving holes and craters that are a huge pain to repair.
Hope all this helps someone.
I learned the hard way, and, I'm still learning ways to improve speed and quality.
Absolutely no need for this mix ! ! !
Just another DAM. GIMMICK ! ! !
Do you still use horse whip?
Ever use "one pass"? It kind of works like a plaster because you can wet it (I usually use it on 2nd or 3rd coat) before it is completely set and smooth it out. Sand after 90 minutes and paint the same day
This is the best comment on this thread but it's geared for professionals and not DIYer's. Most homeowners/DIYer's are thinking...what the hell is this guy talking about?
Any professional will tell you that his comment is spot on.
Strong sideways light shows you the imperfections while mudding and sanding AND darkening the room enhances the effect of the light. If you have no shutters you can darken the room with trashbags and masking tape. Forgive my English God bless you from a Serb.
People have been doing white coat plaster since the 1200s , it’s a great system that does take some skill. This is a neat little idea , maybe it will bring back plaster more .
You can smooth out 20 , 45and 90 set also without that stuff you’re using I do it all the time.
But, if I can finish all the drywall projects in one day, I'll need another name for my house: formerly known as "The Land of Unfinished Projects".
This drywall was messed up for months. If I didn't have this video idea to fix the drywall I don't know if it would have ever been fixed lol!
@@BYOToolsThis is kind of sad, man. You literally did something that needed to be done, just for social media 🤦🏼♂️
😂
Uh, not sure why that’s sad. He had a pretty decent channel with 500k subs, and the video has 1.1 million views. He prioritized a project to create a video for his channel? Not sure why that is sad.
I'm gonna have to try this! I gotta do some sheetrockin, my favorite thing to do too! Thx for the share!!
When I have wide gaps to fill I use Bondo. It hardens in minutes. And I apply it leaving only a small enough void to fill with one application of dry wall patch. Usually within an hour the thin layer of patch dries and doesn't sink enough that I have to apply more. Light sanding and I'm ready to paint.
I just finished drywalling my 54sq ft cabin ans thia could have been a game changer! I am a hack so i use more mud than a pro would which means i have to sand a lot.....this would have helped!
Only mud the joints and the screw heads and any low spots- you don't need to mud the whole thing like this guy did if it is all new construction.
i have been using plasterboard adhesive here in UK and it works better than standard skim
i am a novice but i stopped sanding back in the 80's after i saw a drywall company doing walls in a mall. water and a sponge! however this product for the not having to wait is cool
😂 so you’re saying you just purchased your first mud paddle😄👍👍👍
When I learned how to do drywall, way back in the early 2k's, we did three coats, first with a six inch, then with an 8-10 inch and finaliziing with a 12" and we almost had no sanding. I think the wider blades, like the 12" or the skimming blade, plays more of an effect than the additive. That being said, its just a theory, ive never used mudskip, so I cant say for certain.
I've been doing it since 1994 I've worked with the best and worst in the profession. Honestly if your customer has no clue, they wouldn't see your mistakes even after you pointed them out. But if other pro tapers are in the room, they can see every micro bump, dimple, line or crack, crevice or crease. Instantly.
From the six to the twelve your either applying with fines or very skilled but the wider the blade the better you cover up the mess.
People without training or experience will always need to sand and if your a perfectionist your ganna sand.
If you don't care one way or the other, then you don't have to.
This is totally satisfying to watch however I need to find a drywall handyman lol I just moved into a house that didn’t finish the walls. I ripped off hideous wallpaper that they had painted over and the drywall was nevermudded. This is my life lol
In the early days, prior to the introduction of sheetrock, real plaster never was sanded anyway.
They just kept troweling!
Great job. Good review of the product and informative.
Awesome knee pads. Pro knees knee pads are the best
They truly are! Gotta take care of your body and worth the money in my opinion. Thanks for watching.
Very intriguing 😎👍
Back in the day they use to add Ivory liquid dish soap to smooth the mud, the skimming blade tool you showed is a plaster tool because you don't always sand plaster jobs over lathe, these are gimmicks and a pro wouldn't need them to get the same results but it all needs to be sanded before paint whether it's the painter or the drywall man.
After watching the finale, I have determined this is a soap of sorts and you used a lot of mud for the area, Drywall paint is for the paper not the mud so if you just do the seems and nails you could use the sealer paint but that's what good quality paint does at a cheaper price but thank you for entertaining us.
You can just get a longer setting mud , if you mist it with water , while its still damp , if you have a light enough hand , you can just lightly scrape the mud lines off and then finish with a very fine mud also longer setting. However , after that is done and set , I would still go back with a very fine sanding pad on the edges of the mud and drywall.
How about for skimcoating a previously plastered and painted wall?
@@Avital4414 Sand wall with 40 grit. Use cornice cement(maybe called cove adhesive in the USA) It is an adhesive so will stick to paint a bit better than plasters. Best finish will be 1st coat cornice cement ,scrape high spots back once set,Then a top coat and sand.
@@2321brendan thanks!
Exactly right but with muddskip you won’t need to sand at all. Also and more importantly, u can reply next coat as soon as it’s dry to touch. So wet on wet coats, in minutes not days!
You do a good job I just got done plastering and wish I’d known about this product
Sheetrock Durabond comes in 90 minute 45 min.30 min and 20 min dry time. One part mix with water does the same thing. A sponge float will smooth the surface. You can shave any high spots with a taping knife before it becomes super hard. If you are concerned with moisture add a little latex to the mix though it may slow the dry time.
And for the real cowboys, 5 min😂
And 5
It works perfectly for a garage! You should research on a now to to tape edges and use drop cloths or plastic!
Small tip, run your trowel up the outside corner to remove excess Mud. I see too many here leaving the buildup and makes a bad corner. Always clean up your beads.
Nice work, good video. I am a taper, and use a hawk and trowel for a living, so I was yelling at the screen watching you use the trowel......
Cheers.
LOL! Way to keep it honest and positive. Nothing more satisfying to see in my book then an expert drywall taper. Obviously it takes years of practice to be as officiant as your guys are. Thanks so much for watching.
Thanks again, Don! I wish you’d interview a good Ecuadorian CPA when you go back.
After installing drywall coat with 20 min mud and fill all voids. Then tape and mud. Make sure you don't leave messes behind. Fether all edges when mud is wet. Do not play with the mud put it on smooth and do not fiddle with it afterwards.
I've done drywall professionally. There are drywall knives with handles that make it real easy to hold the blade and make the surface as smooth as possible. You have to have the blade sharpened before you use it.
I covered wood paneling, and this product would've made that job so much easier.
Very thorough demonstration
We need a paint product being like this that has some grains to build thickness that you can paint over before drying fully. Paint with grains that fills those imperfections, you brush it on, then use roller or paint brush to add a top layer that forms the "mirror"-finish
How long before the joints cracked?
I guess they don't sell fast drying mud where you live ,which has been around for many years.
I use lightweight mud on everything. Air pockets are your enemy when taping and mudding, so as long as you get 100% coverage, your tape will never let go or crack. I can go back to any mudding job I've done in the past 15 years and they are all still perfect. If you need to sand in between coats you are putting too much. In mudding, less is more. I only ever sand after final coat. Just scrape any edges left from the trowel
Man for over 30 years I've been drywalling repairs wrong.. I use the mesh but I use 5 min on the set coat and a 2nd coat as soon as it's set up .then a finish coat of ready nix mud within a couple hrs ..then I use a touch up coat for surface scratches the next day if I didn't use a hairdryer to speed up the dry time. Or sand out the surface then texture with a can of texture or set up a hopper and Air compressor..and then prime and paint once texture is dry..now that's a must.😂
Ps you don't drywall the whole area...just the seems..the way you did that that's the way you might do plaster...but I've done plaster repair to, just not that many ..
Thanks for the info and demo 🎉❤
Why are you applying compound to the entire wall area vs the taped and/or damaged areas?
Wow, you discovered hot mud, congratulations!
Good to know, thanks.
I use easy sand 20 and use all these same techniques and they work without the extra expense. I use a M-Town plaster trowel and a hawk. I use a solo bottle with fine mist and mud it up like plaster. This product seems like its an additive that could easily be skipped just by doing the same technique with regular hot mud.
Brown bag Durabond 90 is my go to for almost any project. It hardens like plaster and is perfect for corner bead. Easy sand 20-45-90 is garbage in my opinion and experience. Finish with a final coat of all purpose joint compound. Little to no sanding needed if you’re good at slinging mud.
Tip, use corner bead or wood trim for outside corners !
Use fast setting "hot"mud to fill the gap first, and for then taping with mesh.
Older video, but why not something like Goboard? It's basically waterproof and won't wick water upwards. You can also pretty much seal it to the floor effectively creating a waterproof barrier. Wouldn't suggest it everywhere of course, but in a garage that's prone to water damage I would.