Freak'n love detailed videos on simple subjects like this. Super useful info that will make even my DIY projects look more professional. Thanks Richard!
After trying the usual products out there i settled many years ago on the Durhams rock hard water putty on paint grade trim.. You can mix up a small or large batch with a little water as needed. Sometimes using a small squeeze bottle you can pinpoint a dollop on the nail or screw hole proud of the trim & that eliminates all the excess material and sanding later. Just my 2 cents anyway now retired after 42 years in the trade . Thank god for people like you that carry on the quality of work that you do. Keep up the good work its a great way to make an honest living.
I concur, pin pointing the filler eliminates the need for excessive sanding which can cut thru the primer leaving an uneven surface. I use B-I-N primer after filing and level sanding.
Durham is good stuff 👍 When the work is being painted for nail holes I like to use 20 minute drywall mud . It is by far the quickest and easiest to make the hole compleatly disappear.
Nicely done. I've been a spray painter for 30 yrs. After first coat of primer, I always go back and use a work light and red glaze to make sure everything is corrected. The light really helps you see everything. And when you're done, it's like glass.
A spot light in the dark. It will cast shadows that would scare Casper himself. When I used to tape houses full time I always blocked with a light in the dark, now I'm finding more guys doing it
@@bartholomewgreatpants3425 in new con you can do the hours you want, for Reno's I blocked the windows and informed them I need the lights off. They 100% agree with me when I told them I can see more than using light to fight light and they'd head out while I sanded. Winter months are the best, it was dark at 4:30 and sunrise was 8:30, so I'd show up super early and sponge out or show up at 4
Agreed. Because you could patch & sand, then in a couple hours when the light moves through the room it shows up new spots to be patched. Chase your tail all day without a light! Or worse - the client points it out once your packed & cleaned😩 I find a good quality torch held parallel to the workpiece you don’t need the room blacked out. As long as it’s not direct sunlight of course
you would not believe the amount of work a painter has to do after some of the “wood butchers” I’ve had to follow…but then there’s the master carpenters who really care about their finish work!
@@da324 I'm not a carpenter, I hire carpenters. I can't afford domino'd casing. I guarantee most finish carpenters would prefer to spend an entire day on no fill trim...but there's budgets and deadlines 🤙
I love your channel and have been a subscriber for years, and I wish all carpenters had your commitment to doing quality work. Please don't misunderstand my advice for other painters out there. As a profession painter of 47 years working in Palm Beach and a 17 year veteran contractor I've patched at least a million nail holes. Funny thing, I never minded nail holes before the nail gun was invented. The painters out there know what I'm talking about. FamoWood is a little to grainy for a final fill but it is a good choice, use a putty knife and press hard , it will pop up and leave a crown . Bondo and then glazing putty are the best choices but there is a lot of waste and wasted time, so it depends on the budget. Any of the other choices will work fine as a first fill because I always go over them with a high quality finely ground final coat like Synkoloid (1st choice) or Mh spackle. By the way Bondo makes a special formula for wood that sands much easier, and use white hardener.
I've been making and finishing off and on for more years than I like to count. I always learn something from you. I'm about to make a pedestal for a faux fireplace, and I know there are going to be a bunch of holes, I'm using an Australian wood filler that looks like it has very much the same properties of the one you like(which I've already ordered)and always did multiple steps. Very much like your method and can't wait to try it. Any time you can eliminate steps, is a good time. Thanks for your content.
One thing to mention is how irregular it is to sand Bondo against a soft pine - If the filler is hard like Bondo and you sand too aggressively you may wear away the pine faster than the Bondo. Another great video!
Yes, and in that case I have found it is better to start with hard-backed sandpaper, not foam backed such as block of wood. This sort of "planes" it down and you can better control what is actually having material removed. Then switch to more hard-foam backed.
Matthew McConaughey addresses this with his explanation of the magic hour. Bondo should be sculpted. If you have to sand bondo much you've already lost.
I've been at woodworking for almost 50 years and I agree with some of the other comments that clearly the best filler I've found by far is MH. I tried Famowood and went back to MH. I've also found that using painters masking tape first over anything I'm going to use a nailer on GREATLY reduces the filler/sanding hassle and time spent. After you run around and fill all the nail holes, you just peel off the tape. What you're left with is just the filler filling the nail hole itself - Very easy to knock down with 2-3 quick swipes of 180-220 grit. Otherwise, doing it the traditional way here, you're trying to bring dozens or hundreds of those tiny "pitcher's mounds" of hardened filler back to virtual flat. LOTS of time required. Hope this helps. LOVE your site and all the QUALITY help you provide!
I love MH I have been using it for 40 years , , I use 3M stick it sand paper , on blocks of wood with different profiles. I also tint the MH with universal tint to help with see it in primed wood😊
wherever you plan to shoot your nailer, lay down a strip of masking tape first. It's an extra step but it only takes 10 seconds. Shoot your nails through the tape. push in your nail filler and leave just a tiny bit more to allow for a miniscule bit of MH shrinkage. Peel off the tape while the filler is till damp. You'll be left with filler only the size of the nail head. In a couple hours you can go back and touch down that tiny bit of nail head filler with some 220 grit. No little pitchers mounds or "whiteheads" as we called them in our teenage years to deal with. When you peel back the masking tape, you're removing 90% of the "overfill" of the filler that would've been hardened on the surface of the molding. E-Z! @@richspring1
Sherwin Williams sells a 3M hole filler product that I use on a daily basis as a painter. Drys fast and doesn't shrink. They also have a large hole filler that has fibers in it witch is good for wall repairs. Best product I have found so far. 👍
some great advice here mate! yeah some timber fillers are really hit and miss these days, I've been using linseed oil putty, overfilling it waiting for it to dry then sand. It can shrink though, definitely don't want it visible after a high gloss finish coat
Thanks for sharing that information, Richard. I was hoping you would make this video. The bigger trim screw holes always seem to sink in with other products. Next trim job I know what filler I am using.
Dang it, i have been filling with the Spackle and rubbiing it smooth, since i watched your Wainscot videos. and back filling with the 3M bondo.(the red stuff). it has been working great. i will try this method next time. glad you are showing this part.
Great job. Patience pays off. I’ll try your preferred filler. You may want to try Timbermate filler. It’s my favorite stain-grade filler , especially if you can find a close color match to the species you’ve used.
Richard, I've learned so much from you over the years. On the finishing stages of a two story fireplace surround and accent wall. Tip i'd like to share after picking up some famowood on your recommendation. Take a kids medicine syringe and fill it up with the famowood. Makes filling nail holes so quick to apply, uses less material so makes sanding clean up really easy and keeps your fingers clean. Thanks for all the content over the years. Yourself and Mike Farrington have taught me so much.
I would highly recommend Red Devil Vinyl Patch. It’s got a consistency similar to Cool Whip, it’s very cheap, and if you add just a splash of water to the big tub and mix, you can work very quickly. You can get very smooth results in a short time. The only thing I’d say bad about it is that since it’s so lightweight, it’s easy to get some where you don’t intend to, but if you have a plastic flexible scraper, you can knock off the little boogers very quickly. Sands easy and takes paint extremely well. I use it for drywall, wood, and even pvc or polystyrene trim work.
Wow, I'm in the middle of replacing the dinky door casing in my builder-grade house with something more substantial and have been disappointed in the plastic wood filler I've been using to fill the nail holes. You couldn't have posted this video at a better time! Heading over to Amazon right now. Thanks!
Another great video.i enjoy watching your amazing craftsmanship. I've been a remodeler for close to 50 years and my favorite is MH ready patch. It has very little shrinkage and is quite hard. the only drawback is that it's a little hard to sand.
Looking forward to trying this one! Been on a search for years for the best filler. Recently been trying our JB wood putty for larger holes which makes a decent base fill. Also been testing out timbermate which looks similar to this. Painter here that appreciates your videos! Mantle is looking amazing!!!
I like the filler that is made with Talc. It is light and easy to use and you can use your fingers instead of using a pallet knife. It dries within 5 minutes and does not shrink.
I know it gets mixed reviews but my go-to is still the drydex in the tube. I cut the tip ~3/16 and press it directly on the nail hole and squeeze pretty hard until it splooges out the sides and then I lighten up and let it overflow the hole a bit. This ensures that the hole is completely jammed with filler and the excess allows for the shrinkage. The shrinkage seems to be the open loose grain of the wood created by the nail hole just pulling the moisture out of the filler and drawing it into the hole. The method I use with a bit of excess accounts for that. One pass of filler chased with some 220 grit and you couldn't find the heads with a spotlight and magnifying glass. It's reliable and efficient just pressing the tip to the nail holes and squeezing. It's also very clean because you don't need to use your finger to work it in. I'm still going to give your product a try but I figured I'd throw this out there because I've had really good luck with drydex using this method.
I've also had good results.... Use it all the time and then I typically paint over it within hours of filling the holes and I get great results. I do use the wood fillers on some repairs, but waiting hours for setting/drying is a real downside to working with them.
Famowood fillers are top of the line for stained or painted applications. It's what you'll see in professional cabinet shops, it's what the cabinet shop suppliers sale, etc. The only issue we ever had with it was filling hairline cracks in painted (conversion varnish paint) solid wood cabinet doors. Because it is so hard, It has a habit of cracking when the joints expand and contract over time. Lightweight spackle seemed to hold up better in that instance since it is somewhat flexible.
Best results. Overlay delicate tape, nail, add the wood filler, pull the tape off. If you need to sand...probably not...and then paint. I lot of overhead however, the end result is awesome.
I don't think you understand how much I HATED trim work until I found this channel. Thanks for making my life a lot easier when doing trim! I mean, I still avoid it, but it's not as bad if I'm forced to do it.
I love this channel and have used it to take on my own projects. The only problem is I take so long to finish anything that many of the products I started using because of FCTV are now at the bottom of the list…hardboard filler panels on wainscot, CA glue, and now DAP pink filler. It is nice to see the progression though, I guess I just need to work faster. I’m about a year into a coffered ceiling and 18’/11’ high paneled walls in my 2 story foyer. I should be finished up any day now…
That will be a fun one! I also use famowood filler but I wouldn't dare use 120 grit on primed trim. Those scratch marks are hard to sand out, and they would translate through into the satin topcoat. But maybe your last coat of primer does the trick.
dang it's the best I've tried....got it at Menards and love it....btw another big downside of bondo is it is very hard and you will sand away wood trying to get extra off...thanks for the tip,,,,i'm a fan!
Are we ever gonna see this painted? Come on already. What’s the hold up? Obviously I’m just kidding but I really am looking forward to the final reveal. It looks fantastic. A great before and after for your website or portfolio.
Very nice finish on the mantle. I often use raking light when it comes to filling nail holes and looking for dings. I can often get everything filled on the first pass. Still, your method produces great results.
I havent tried Famowood yet. I used to work exclusively on hardwood flooring . So the fillers I worked with were mostly waterbased.Most of them are only average.The best wood filler I tried was Timbermate.But it is hard to find. Plastiwood from DAP is decent.Dries fast but a bit harder to work with and smooth and it stinks.If you don't need a wood tone,stainable filler, bondo works great and doesn't shrink.And Redi Patch is pretty good too as long as the wood is primed.
I am curious what you think about a wet wipe process to eliminate sanding? I have seen some guys come back in 15 minutes and wipe with a damp sponge. Thoughts?
I used to use Dap 88 Painters Putty. •Now I just use 30min spackle/drywall compound mixed in a plastic cup and apply with my finger. It costs next to nothing, very easy to sand and leaves a great finish.
I always set up a work light shining tangent to the surface when filling and sanding. The raking light makes it MUCH easier to see the surface texture.
I really like your channel.. your so talented!! I'v learned a lot from you and your techniques, I wish I had your scene of calmness and level of patience, (so good). My question is what kind if palm sander are you using here..... Thank you for sharing your craft w/ the world.. Lou
Great video and the mantle looks amazing! I’m in the process of pulling my hair out filling nail holes now lol. The Dap wood filler (natural color) was working fine for me but I would have to fill twice. I got some of the same in white ( except that one came in a tube instead of a tub… but said basically the same stuff on it ) thinking it would save me a step since the trim was painted before installing and the s*** is flashing! It seems grittier than the natural colored one also and doesn’t sand as nice. Stuff sucks and I won’t use it again. I’m going to see if I can find the famowood and give it a shot. Thanks!🙌🏻
I always used those squeeze tubes of DAP and always had to fill, sand, fill, sand, and sometimes fill again. I'm using the Famowood in my latest room renovation and it is working so much better. One fill, one sand. And it disappears like magic. THANK YOU!
Great Video, this is top quality. I had a question about caulk, I don't think you mentioned it anywhere in the video. Curious to know what joints you would caulk, which ones you would not caulk and why. How do you avoid paint cracking along joints. Great video thanks!!
Would've been nice to have reflective light to see the "after" shots, but it looks like it turned out well. One step not mentioned is airing out the holes of dust before filling also ensures optimum adhesion of the wood filler. I've seen lots of filler crumble during the sanding when people try to fill dusty holes.
I've tried a bunch of different filler products like DAP and Bondo, but Bondo is 2 part and it hardens like a rock making it difficult to sand. Famowood gave me the best results for a smooth surface finish. The product itself is a fine paste and quickly dries making it easy to sand and paint.
For stain grade trim, I use wood filler wax sticks. Lots of colors and much better than colored putty because the holes totally disappear and no shine left when buffed. Treat paint grase holes like drywall. Fill and sand. Duh.
I’ve never seen that brand wood filler in my local stores. My local hardware store carries Zar brand wood patch. I think it’s the best available to me here.
Thank you 🙏 I thought for a second you were going to recommend the two part stuff! ( golf ball to pea). But 100 percent agree it’s great for repairing stuff ups etc. especially selleys heavy duty bog, green tinge not the pink crap. Just orders some of this, not cheap 👍🏻
Hey, love your content. You inspired me to do an accent wall, ceiling feature, and wainscotting in my home! :-) Can you tell me what sander you are using? I don't see it in your list of equipment below. Thank you.
I have recently started to use a 2 ft long LED shop light with adjustable lighting tones to find imperfections. Different color lighting will reveal different types of dents and scratches.
I prefer MH ready patch for filler as for me it dries hard and sands flat but to each their own During the renovation of our 100+ year farmhouse, I had custom millwork made to match the original in the house. the trim carpenters didn't cut off areas of snipe and at least to me it was glaringly visible. I ended up using the glazing putty to fill in the snipe as wood filler didn't stick when sanding. Took several layers with sanding between to get it so the snipe was gone
Greetings and hope all's well. Thanks for another recommendation, I'll be starting a trim work project soon and It'll be a new venture for me so I'm sure there'll be a few blems to correct LOL. Just watched your vid on the CA glue as well and wondering if it would be effective repairing the stretchers that pulled apart from the legs on my oak dining room chairs. The Elmer's & clamping I tried previously obviously didn't do the trick (Easter dinner crash & burn here and it wasn't pretty). Any thoughts from you or folks in the group would be appreciated . . .
Try filling at the end of the day with a tiny flashlight in your spare hand, this will hi light all dents and scratches. Use the shadows to your advantage👍😊
Timbermate is very similar to Famowood its almost like you're using the same stuff. Just like Famowood it has lots of tones to match woods only one of the options is white so it works great with primed trim.
thanks for showing us nice results, being a painter for over a decade my go to is Crawford's painters putty, have you had any experience with it? what are your thoughts?
Freak'n love detailed videos on simple subjects like this. Super useful info that will make even my DIY projects look more professional. Thanks Richard!
After trying the usual products out there i settled many years ago on the Durhams rock hard water putty on paint grade trim.. You can mix up a small or large batch with a little water as needed. Sometimes using a small squeeze bottle you can pinpoint a dollop on the nail or screw hole proud of the trim & that eliminates all the excess material and sanding later. Just my 2 cents anyway now retired after 42 years in the trade . Thank god for people like you that carry on the quality of work that you do. Keep up the good work its a great way to make an honest living.
I concur, pin pointing the filler eliminates the need for excessive sanding which can cut
thru the primer leaving an uneven surface. I use B-I-N primer after filing and level sanding.
I was just about to recommend it when I saw your comment
You can never go wrong with Durhams.
👍🏻👏🏻
Durham is good stuff 👍
When the work is being painted for nail holes I like to use 20 minute drywall mud . It is by far the quickest and easiest to make the hole compleatly disappear.
Holy smokes. That fireplace is stunning. Great work!!
This is EXACTLY what I've been waiting to see for several years now! Thank you very much!
Nicely done. I've been a spray painter for 30 yrs. After first coat of primer, I always go back and use a work light and red glaze to make sure everything is corrected. The light really helps you see everything. And when you're done, it's like glass.
A spot light in the dark. It will cast shadows that would scare Casper himself.
When I used to tape houses full time I always blocked with a light in the dark, now I'm finding more guys doing it
@batmansdad3195 how did you deal with customers not wanting you there before or after the sun goes up or down?
@@bartholomewgreatpants3425 in new con you can do the hours you want, for Reno's I blocked the windows and informed them I need the lights off. They 100% agree with me when I told them I can see more than using light to fight light and they'd head out while I sanded.
Winter months are the best, it was dark at 4:30 and sunrise was 8:30, so I'd show up super early and sponge out or show up at 4
Agreed. Because you could patch & sand, then in a couple hours when the light moves through the room it shows up new spots to be patched.
Chase your tail all day without a light!
Or worse - the client points it out once your packed & cleaned😩
I find a good quality torch held parallel to the workpiece you don’t need the room blacked out. As long as it’s not direct sunlight of course
As a carpenter I love leaving the filling work to the painter.
you would not believe the amount of work a painter has to do after some of the “wood butchers” I’ve had to follow…but then there’s the master carpenters who really care about their finish work!
That must be the reason my painters quotes are so expensive 😂
So what you're really saying is, you're a lazy carpenter.
@@da324 Not really , I try to use minimum nails with glues and as finer guage nails as practical, I just hate filling.
@@da324 I'm not a carpenter, I hire carpenters. I can't afford domino'd casing. I guarantee most finish carpenters would prefer to spend an entire day on no fill trim...but there's budgets and deadlines 🤙
I love your channel and have been a subscriber for years, and I wish all carpenters had your commitment to doing quality work. Please don't misunderstand my advice for other painters out there. As a profession painter of 47 years working in Palm Beach and a 17 year veteran contractor I've patched at least a million nail holes. Funny thing, I never minded nail holes before the nail gun was invented. The painters out there know what I'm talking about. FamoWood is a little to grainy for a final fill but it is a good choice, use a putty knife and press hard , it will pop up and leave a crown . Bondo and then glazing putty are the best choices but there is a lot of waste and wasted time, so it depends on the budget. Any of the other choices will work fine as a first fill because I always go over them with a high quality finely ground final coat like Synkoloid (1st choice) or Mh spackle. By the way Bondo makes a special formula for wood that sands much easier, and use white hardener.
I've been making and finishing off and on for more years than I like to count. I always learn something from you. I'm about to make a pedestal for a faux fireplace, and I know there are going to be a bunch of holes, I'm using an Australian wood filler that looks like it has very much the same properties of the one you like(which I've already ordered)and always did multiple steps. Very much like your method and can't wait to try it. Any time you can eliminate steps, is a good time. Thanks for your content.
YEAHHH! I asked for this video in a previous comment!! lol thanks man!! you're getting a thumbs up before I even watch it.
On those shallow depressions, I like to use a nail or punch to add some depth to the hole before filling
your craftsmanship and attention to detail are remarkable... you always do great work!
Boy I just love your work. Actual craftsmen are so hard to come by nowadays. I wish you lived in my area (Houston); I've have you busy frequently.
One thing to mention is how irregular it is to sand Bondo against a soft pine - If the filler is hard like Bondo and you sand too aggressively you may wear away the pine faster than the Bondo. Another great video!
Ding ding ding!
I ran into this same problem.
wow I just recently found that out the hard way. luckily I caught in time.
Yes, and in that case I have found it is better to start with hard-backed sandpaper, not foam backed such as block of wood. This sort of "planes" it down and you can better control what is actually having material removed. Then switch to more hard-foam backed.
Matthew McConaughey addresses this with his explanation of the magic hour. Bondo should be sculpted. If you have to sand bondo much you've already lost.
I've been at woodworking for almost 50 years and I agree with some of the other comments that clearly the best filler I've found by far is MH. I tried Famowood and went back to MH. I've also found that using painters masking tape first over anything I'm going to use a nailer on GREATLY reduces the filler/sanding hassle and time spent. After you run around and fill all the nail holes, you just peel off the tape. What you're left with is just the filler filling the nail hole itself - Very easy to knock down with 2-3 quick swipes of 180-220 grit. Otherwise, doing it the traditional way here, you're trying to bring dozens or hundreds of those tiny "pitcher's mounds" of hardened filler back to virtual flat. LOTS of time required. Hope this helps. LOVE your site and all the QUALITY help you provide!
Indoor, outdoor - MH has served me well too.
Thanks Ron. You mean you cover the whole area with tape first? Just leave a bare spot around holes..?
I love MH I have been using it for 40 years , , I use 3M stick it sand paper , on blocks of wood with different profiles. I also tint the MH with universal tint to help with see it in primed wood😊
wherever you plan to shoot your nailer, lay down a strip of masking tape first. It's an extra step but it only takes 10 seconds. Shoot your nails through the tape. push in your nail filler and leave just a tiny bit more to allow for a miniscule bit of MH shrinkage. Peel off the tape while the filler is till damp. You'll be left with filler only the size of the nail head. In a couple hours you can go back and touch down that tiny bit of nail head filler with some 220 grit. No little pitchers mounds or "whiteheads" as we called them in our teenage years to deal with. When you peel back the masking tape, you're removing 90% of the "overfill" of the filler that would've been hardened on the surface of the molding. E-Z! @@richspring1
That sounds like a great idea!👍. I’ll have to try that.
Sherwin Williams sells a 3M hole filler product that I use on a daily basis as a painter. Drys fast and doesn't shrink. They also have a large hole filler that has fibers in it witch is good for wall repairs. Best product I have found so far. 👍
I can back this 3m is great
@@TruePatriot76 yes sir..🤙
Thanks for the wood filler recommendation - helpful. Nice progress on the mantle. Always appreciated.
I enjoy your videos. Great work ethic, attitude and craftsmanship. Bravo
some great advice here mate! yeah some timber fillers are really hit and miss these days, I've been using linseed oil putty, overfilling it waiting for it to dry then sand. It can shrink though, definitely don't want it visible after a high gloss finish coat
Thanks for sharing that information, Richard. I was hoping you would make this video. The bigger trim screw holes always seem to sink in with other products. Next trim job I know what filler I am using.
Dang it, i have been filling with the Spackle and rubbiing it smooth, since i watched your Wainscot videos. and back filling with the 3M bondo.(the red stuff). it has been working great.
i will try this method next time. glad you are showing this part.
Works well for me too! Always good info from this channel
Great job. Patience pays off. I’ll try your preferred filler. You may want to try Timbermate filler. It’s my favorite stain-grade filler , especially if you can find a close color match to the species you’ve used.
Richard, you might try Bin Primmer from Zinzer. As a shellac based primer you can get a very nice build applying multiple coats. Sands out like glass.
I think he wants to spray it as he did with the other trim. I don’t think you can spray bin or shouldn’t I guess
I@@AW-yv9sqI've sprayed it with no problems. I highly recommend it
@AW-yv9sq It comes in a spray paint can if you're doing spots.
Thanks for your insight. Always appreciate your videos. Best wishes for the new year!
Great job man. Going to try that filler on my next job. Thank you for all your advice. Mantle build is a great series....really enjoying it.
Richard, I've learned so much from you over the years. On the finishing stages of a two story fireplace surround and accent wall. Tip i'd like to share after picking up some famowood on your recommendation. Take a kids medicine syringe and fill it up with the famowood. Makes filling nail holes so quick to apply, uses less material so makes sanding clean up really easy and keeps your fingers clean. Thanks for all the content over the years. Yourself and Mike Farrington have taught me so much.
I would highly recommend Red Devil Vinyl Patch. It’s got a consistency similar to Cool Whip, it’s very cheap, and if you add just a splash of water to the big tub and mix, you can work very quickly. You can get very smooth results in a short time. The only thing I’d say bad about it is that since it’s so lightweight, it’s easy to get some where you don’t intend to, but if you have a plastic flexible scraper, you can knock off the little boogers very quickly. Sands easy and takes paint extremely well. I use it for drywall, wood, and even pvc or polystyrene trim work.
Wow, I'm in the middle of replacing the dinky door casing in my builder-grade house with something more substantial and have been disappointed in the plastic wood filler I've been using to fill the nail holes. You couldn't have posted this video at a better time! Heading over to Amazon right now. Thanks!
Another great video.i enjoy watching your amazing craftsmanship.
I've been a remodeler for close to 50 years and my favorite is MH ready patch. It has very little shrinkage and is quite hard.
the only drawback is that it's a little hard to sand.
Nothing like listening to someone with competence who can speak with confidence.
... Hello, Richard. Excellent work there. Love this series involving the mantle and related molding. Hugs from Midland, Texas.
The mantle was absolutely beautiful. I love the detail. Great job.
Bought some yesterday. I do like the Durhams water putty too.
Looking forward to trying this one! Been on a search for years for the best filler. Recently been trying our JB wood putty for larger holes which makes a decent base fill. Also been testing out timbermate which looks similar to this. Painter here that appreciates your videos! Mantle is looking amazing!!!
Check out the 3m fillers
I like the filler that is made with Talc. It is light and easy to use and you can use your fingers instead of using a pallet knife. It dries within 5 minutes and does not shrink.
I know it gets mixed reviews but my go-to is still the drydex in the tube. I cut the tip ~3/16 and press it directly on the nail hole and squeeze pretty hard until it splooges out the sides and then I lighten up and let it overflow the hole a bit. This ensures that the hole is completely jammed with filler and the excess allows for the shrinkage. The shrinkage seems to be the open loose grain of the wood created by the nail hole just pulling the moisture out of the filler and drawing it into the hole. The method I use with a bit of excess accounts for that. One pass of filler chased with some 220 grit and you couldn't find the heads with a spotlight and magnifying glass. It's reliable and efficient just pressing the tip to the nail holes and squeezing. It's also very clean because you don't need to use your finger to work it in. I'm still going to give your product a try but I figured I'd throw this out there because I've had really good luck with drydex using this method.
I've also had good results.... Use it all the time and then I typically paint over it within hours of filling the holes and I get great results. I do use the wood fillers on some repairs, but waiting hours for setting/drying is a real downside to working with them.
drydex in a tube, really? sounds perfect.
never seen it with the tubs, then again I wasn't looking for it.
I'm a huge fan of that stuff
Nice job! Details are amazing! 🫡👍🫡
Famowood fillers are top of the line for stained or painted applications. It's what you'll see in professional cabinet shops, it's what the cabinet shop suppliers sale, etc. The only issue we ever had with it was filling hairline cracks in painted (conversion varnish paint) solid wood cabinet doors. Because it is so hard, It has a habit of cracking when the joints expand and contract over time. Lightweight spackle seemed to hold up better in that instance since it is somewhat flexible.
Best results. Overlay delicate tape, nail, add the wood filler, pull the tape off. If you need to sand...probably not...and then paint. I lot of overhead however, the end result is awesome.
I don't think you understand how much I HATED trim work until I found this channel. Thanks for making my life a lot easier when doing trim! I mean, I still avoid it, but it's not as bad if I'm forced to do it.
I love this channel and have used it to take on my own projects. The only problem is I take so long to finish anything that many of the products I started using because of FCTV are now at the bottom of the list…hardboard filler panels on wainscot, CA glue, and now DAP pink filler. It is nice to see the progression though, I guess I just need to work faster. I’m about a year into a coffered ceiling and 18’/11’ high paneled walls in my 2 story foyer. I should be finished up any day now…
That will be a fun one! I also use famowood filler but I wouldn't dare use 120 grit on primed trim. Those scratch marks are hard to sand out, and they would translate through into the satin topcoat. But maybe your last coat of primer does the trick.
Great video as always. A good paint job is 99% prep and 1% painting.
Fantastic result! Great to know what fillers is the best. Thank you!
dang it's the best I've tried....got it at Menards and love it....btw another big downside of bondo is it is very hard and you will sand away wood trying to get extra off...thanks for the tip,,,,i'm a fan!
After sanding but before priming do you wipe down with a wet cloth? vacuum?
Durhams/rockys......water putty...my favorite....yellow powder..just add water 💧
Thanks for the knowledge!! I think side lighting would help find defects quickly.
Nicely done brother 🤘🤠
Are we ever gonna see this painted? Come on already. What’s the hold up? Obviously I’m just kidding but I really am looking forward to the final reveal. It looks fantastic. A great before and after for your website or portfolio.
I'm saying the same thing lol
No really, the sent a man to the moon in less time…..🎉
Wow, so much better watching this at home on my 30" iMac thabnq my iPhone. Great work, Richard.
Just watch it on your tv
I love famowood, I’ve also watered it down even thinner to fill grain better
Great topic and explainations. Got alot info that will help me on future projects.
Very nice finish on the mantle. I often use raking light when it comes to filling nail holes and looking for dings. I can often get everything filled on the first pass. Still, your method produces great results.
Thanks. Great vid. I've been using an acrylic caulk. Seems to hide all these DIYer's imperfections. But I'm going to try your product.
I havent tried Famowood yet. I used to work exclusively on hardwood flooring . So the fillers I worked with were mostly waterbased.Most of them are only average.The best wood filler I tried was Timbermate.But it is hard to find. Plastiwood from DAP is decent.Dries fast but a bit harder to work with and smooth and it stinks.If you don't need a wood tone,stainable filler, bondo works great and doesn't shrink.And Redi Patch is pretty good too as long as the wood is primed.
I am curious what you think about a wet wipe process to eliminate sanding? I have seen some guys come back in 15 minutes and wipe with a damp sponge. Thoughts?
Interesting, I haven’t tried it but I will! Thanks for the idea.
I love famowood, found it by accident at hardwood dealer and haven’t looked back since. It sands supper fast and smooth.
As always, a thorough, factual tutorial.!
What about in exterior situations? I have a porch that looks just like your fireplace (nail holes)
The famowood is for exterior too!
Will this work on mdf mouldings
And which sander did you use
Love the sander conforming to the shape of the moulding
Thank you great content
Wow I’ve tried all but the one you have used and I gotta say I’ve never had a problem with drydex for nail holes.
How closely have you really examined your project from different angles and in different lights a couple weeks after it's been painted?
MH Ready Patch is my putty of choice - give it a shot👍
I thought for sure that he'd show MH in the product shot! Surprising!
I used to use Dap 88 Painters Putty.
•Now I just use 30min spackle/drywall compound mixed in a plastic cup and apply with my finger.
It costs next to nothing, very easy to sand and leaves a great finish.
Quickset 30? Like hot mud or regular green lid joint compound? Thanks! :)
Big fan of elmers wood filler. Strick not soft sands very fine
I always set up a work light shining tangent to the surface when filling and sanding. The raking light makes it MUCH easier to see the surface texture.
Very good Richard , I like watching your videos. 👍
I really like your channel.. your so talented!! I'v learned a lot from you and your techniques, I wish I had your scene of calmness and level of patience, (so good). My question is what kind if palm sander are you using here..... Thank you for sharing your craft w/ the world..
Lou
Great video and the mantle looks amazing!
I’m in the process of pulling my hair out filling nail holes now lol.
The Dap wood filler (natural color) was working fine for me but I would have to fill twice. I got some of the same in white ( except that one came in a tube instead of a tub… but said basically the same stuff on it ) thinking it would save me a step since the trim was painted before installing and the s*** is flashing! It seems grittier than the natural colored one also and doesn’t sand as nice. Stuff sucks and I won’t use it again. I’m going to see if I can find the famowood and give it a shot. Thanks!🙌🏻
Great advice! Thank you!
Your videos are so informative, excellently executed, and professionally done!
Glazing putty and a very flexible knife. Push into hole with thumb then shizzle between thumb and surface. Try it - you might be surprised
I always used those squeeze tubes of DAP and always had to fill, sand, fill, sand, and sometimes fill again. I'm using the Famowood in my latest room renovation and it is working so much better. One fill, one sand. And it disappears like magic. THANK YOU!
Sweet. How to you apply your finish coat, spray or brush? Cheers
Great Video, this is top quality. I had a question about caulk, I don't think you mentioned it anywhere in the video. Curious to know what joints you would caulk, which ones you would not caulk and why. How do you avoid paint cracking along joints. Great video thanks!!
Would've been nice to have reflective light to see the "after" shots, but it looks like it turned out well. One step not mentioned is airing out the holes of dust before filling also ensures optimum adhesion of the wood filler. I've seen lots of filler crumble during the sanding when people try to fill dusty holes.
but in another video of yours you recommend and demonstrate using pink drydex on crown. so, which is it?
I've tried a bunch of different filler products like DAP and Bondo, but Bondo is 2 part and it hardens like a rock making it difficult to sand. Famowood gave me the best results for a smooth surface finish. The product itself is a fine paste and quickly dries making it easy to sand and paint.
Helpful. Will try that product on next project.
For stain grade trim, I use wood filler wax sticks. Lots of colors and much better than colored putty because the holes totally disappear and no shine left when buffed. Treat paint grase holes like drywall. Fill and sand. Duh.
Excellent work my friend!
This was great, Subscribed!
MH for paint. The best.
I’ve never seen that brand wood filler in my local stores. My local hardware store carries Zar brand wood patch. I think it’s the best available to me here.
I was wondering what you use on nail holes....................... thanks for sharing
Thank you 🙏
I thought for a second you were going to recommend the two part stuff! ( golf ball to pea). But 100 percent agree it’s great for repairing stuff ups etc. especially selleys heavy duty bog, green tinge not the pink crap.
Just orders some of this, not cheap 👍🏻
Hey, love your content. You inspired me to do an accent wall, ceiling feature, and wainscotting in my home! :-) Can you tell me what sander you are using? I don't see it in your list of equipment below. Thank you.
Great job like always.
Where do you buy the Famowood wood filler?
Thanks
Do you have a link to the sander you are using in the video?
I have recently started to use a 2 ft long LED shop light with adjustable lighting tones to find imperfections. Different color lighting will reveal different types of dents and scratches.
I prefer MH ready patch for filler as for me it dries hard and sands flat but to each their own
During the renovation of our 100+ year farmhouse, I had custom millwork made to match the original in the house. the trim carpenters didn't cut off areas of snipe and at least to me it was glaringly visible. I ended up using the glazing putty to fill in the snipe as wood filler didn't stick when sanding. Took several layers with sanding between to get it so the snipe was gone
I recommend MH to everyone after trying just about every filler imaginable! I'm glad to know someone else shares my affinity for that product!
Greetings and hope all's well. Thanks for another recommendation, I'll be starting a trim work project soon and It'll be a new venture for me so I'm sure there'll be a few blems to correct LOL. Just watched your vid on the CA glue as well and wondering if it would be effective repairing the stretchers that pulled apart from the legs on my oak dining room chairs. The Elmer's & clamping I tried previously obviously didn't do the trick (Easter dinner crash & burn here and it wasn't pretty). Any thoughts from you or folks in the group would be appreciated . . .
Try filling at the end of the day with a tiny flashlight in your spare hand, this will hi light all dents and scratches. Use the shadows to your advantage👍😊
painting works great for me !!!
This is a very informative, useful video, thanks for sharing.
He is Master in crown molding explain verry well I did some myself. and a lot of it to is time consuming lot of prep that goes on these Job
Great work Richard … what spray primer do you use?
It would be interesting to see this done on stain grade work.
Timbermate is very similar to Famowood its almost like you're using the same stuff. Just like Famowood it has lots of tones to match woods only one of the options is white so it works great with primed trim.
thanks for showing us nice results, being a painter for over a decade my go to is Crawford's painters putty, have you had any experience with it? what are your thoughts?
Great Review!