Yep. If they just watched the first 20 secs. he basically disclaims the entire video. As a Contractor, I think his methods are spot on. My favorite comment from below so far is, "Just learn to cut your corners....durr durr..." So, sir/madam, are you claiming that you, a human, are perfect? Thought not. Mistakes are made, it's how you fix them that defines you.
No, no, we just like goofing on Canadians, man. Besides, I dig how he likes living on the edge and not using any tape on the floor. I was kn the edge of my seat wigh that one. Whew!
LOL the same reason I'll watch a "caring for a sick iguana in rural Indiana during a thunderstorm" at 1:30 am.....it's random and interesting for some reason. I'll see my 12 year old watch a video on "12 ways to make eggs". He's years off from ever making an egg & I'll ask him why he's watching that, he'll shrug and go "I dunno"...exactly kid, exactly. :)
Let me tell you how I got a quarter inch gap in my mitered inner corner....on my back porch, in my very old house, where Plato’s world of ‘perfect solids, and perfect geometry’ did not visit.
sometime, somehow, somewhere this video will help a lot of people who want to fix around their house. I like this work because I don't have enough money to hire a professional>+1
I've never lived in a house in my life with perfectly mitred skirting boards, even when I had a house built from scratch. The only gap filling I've ever witnessed was with thick gloss paint. So I hope whoever buys this place drops something on the floor so they get down on their knees and appreciate the effort! Incidentally, here in the UK tiny gaps often occur because the timber stock wasn't seasoned in the house after occupation, i.e. the skirtings were put on during build and often before the central heating goes on. At the point of inspection the mitres are perfect. Then the family moves in, turns on the heating, and gaps sometimes (not always) start to appear. It's just part of the character of the house I suppose.
A Teleskier ...especially if you get the wood from Selco, it’s all wet one end and twists half an inch out of square, you can always go to wickes and get 100 knots with a bit of timber joining them up.
When the heat is turned on for the first time, don't turn the temperature up all at once. Raise the temperature over a couple of days, otherwise you can crack all of the caulk.
By far the clearest most concise most visually interesting and easy to understand instructions - as well as being clearly present. I had done 15 years of carpentry and still learn something new every time I watch one of his instructional videos. Even just getting a refresher course on the basics makes me realize how much of the small subtle things I’d forgotten. Bravo Ben!
Alright lads we've all had coffee so let's just take in what's being said, appreciate the fact he's posted a video to help people,and when that's done give your fannies a wipe and stop complaining and ask yourself why you've just watched a video on dealing with bad corners 🤔
Before we answer your dipshit question Mr KnowsItAll why don't you explain your being here?.. OMG'sh could it be you snuck in to watch and learn from one of the best on how to fix an open miter cut because you jacked a miter cut ?... Everyone has a reason for being here bro so come with it.!!!.. FYI, mine for this one is just because he's a real cutie 😍 since I don't muck my miter cuts😜
I love your stuff. I'm a union carpenter Foreman in Manhatten. But I mostly deal with hanging metal/ wood ceilings in high end spaces. So to say you've taught me a lot about taping, mud and spackle would be an understatement. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
The amount of effort to make a video and upload it is never worth the 413 thumbs downs. Thank you for sharing this tip, this is helpful and appreciated.
When all the comments are complaining about angry comments that you can't see, because there are so many comments complaining about the angry comments.
John Martinez A lot of the complainers are people saying just be good and you won’t have corners like this. The real reason people should complain, is wood filler or drywall puddy are actually terrible for joints and open miters. If you can’t caulk it or draw it in with a trim screw in the MDF, it needs to be re cut.
The reason, is that caulk doesn’t shrink, when you paint caulk it dries and can’t fully stretch. These joints act as expansion points, when you fill the gaps with wood filler you eliminate all movable space. Usually it’s not an issue, BUT it can cause your trim to buckle and draw away from the wall.
@@TwoBitty Like no trim carpenter's are using wood or CA glues on their miter and copped joints, right? Besides, most paint grade moldings, baseboard, etc. are made of short sections of finger-jointed Pine or MDF with a factory applied primer. Those two factors blowup the whole joint needs to expand and contract argument, not to mention all the fasteners along its length, used to secure it to the wall (bottom plate and/or studs). Also, no one in their rightmind is buying premium stain-grade one piece clear lengths of Popular, Pine, etc. mouldings to painting them.
Perfectly said...my first thought when scrolling down to the comment section was about how many snotty carpenters would comment.. but now I'm actually getting used to the fact that the comments are more about how snotty the snotty comments are and I really never see the snotty comments and don't even know if they exist
First time I've seen one of your videos. I'm a 66 year old woman but like to do some of my own home improvements. I will be watching more and thank you. Better late than never.
It's funny how it looks so simple but when I attempt it In realize I need to go watch how you do it;) Your videos are awesome and right to the point. Thank you
WOW, I can not believe all the "holier than thou" attitude. I am a DIY'r and I appreciate videos like this to help out. I don't think this was aimed at the pros or the one who think they are pros. Besides why are all the "pros" watching this. :) Thanks for the video.
Yeah, most certainly, most pro carpenters, don't do their own painting. If a pro leave too many open joints, the painters may back charge the contractor, or at the very least mock the skills of the carpenter, and demand beers after work.
Because adding information to their database of tricks is what MAKES them PROS! The rest of you just stay mediocre, we don't care...unless you're working for us!
As a construction working I really appreciate these videos man! Seriously thank you . While I’m Drywalling I watch all these videos and keep leaning things I don’t already know. I feel if we don’t want to learn ,we don’t wanna get better
Awesome video. Now, how does one go about filling in gaps on inside corners? All I'm gonna say is "I might" or "I might not" need to see a video on this matter....rofl
Just want to send a thanks to you, Vancouver Carpenter. I did a small home reno project building a wall for my wife’s music room, and it went pretty well. I watched a few of your videos to help me learn what to do and not do with drywall and trim. Thanks for doing what you do!
Are people here really blaming the saw instead of the wall? Lol every brand new house I've done this in has bowed walls and not perfect 90 degree corners. It's a catastrophe
Not really "quality" if the miter is wide open. Should have been cut right the first time. I've seen lots of finishers do this and say "whatever its paint grade trim". So if you're a finisher that does this what are you going to do on the stain grade jobs? I've had finishers that had never worked with stain grade try and throw it up like this with open joints and gaps just to have to pull it off and replace it. Plus all that filler at the tip, hollow behind will dry and crack later and look bad down the road once the homeowner is moved in and comfortable. Doesn't give the homeowner a good feeling when they're new home starts showing flaws shortly after moving in
Yeah, works great as long as it's a painted project. They have some nice 3 part epoxies that are highly stainable. And really easy to mold. Just in case you ever need it. Just make sure you wear latex gloves with it.
As I do my final vertical wipe upwards I slowly slide the blade sideways away from the vertical edge which helps prevent excess filler from piling up along that edge. A common reason for open joints at corners is simply out-of-square drywall due to imperfect framing. I cut tests out of short pieces when I'm installing Oak, etc., trim to be sure of my installation before I ruin long pieces of trim.
This is one guy who's videos I don't talk shit on. He's informative, respectable and gives solid opinionated info unlike most of youtube. Also nice to see somebody not constantly spamming shit products that asia makes.
Hahah...at first when I read you comment, I thought you said "this is the only guy I don't talk shit on"...and thought, this guy must be a real Douchebag...hahaha I agree, this guy is great.
One trick we used to use on miter folded beams was to burnish the corners with a screwdriver, or anything that's round, hard, and smooth. You rub the miter to bend those fibers together and close up your corner, it has it's limitations but it's saved me a lot of filling.
I gave automotive body filler, "Bondo" a try for some really bad cracks. It was far better than any wood filler I've ever used, it doesn't crack or shrink, and it gives a more permanent fix. For outside corners that are subject to damage afterwards, Bondo is better.... Of course you need to paint afterwards.
You get quarter inch gaps in your woodwork because your contractor hired a literal crack head to frame your home and there isn’t one true square corner in any place in it.
Recently bought my first house, getting little bits done until I'm more confident handling the bigger stuff - I thought I was pretty good with plastering (as we call it here...) until I saw your videos. Thanks for the education! I had no idea that some people call it mud :D I love that name for it! I definitely had a 'told ya so' moment when some got on the floor :P
Tip for using a sheet of sandpaper: fold in half one way, then fold it in half the other. Now there's a cross of folds dividing it in four. Tear down one of the folds to the center - just half way across. Now fold the sheet round on itself (fold left, fold up, fold right for instance) and you have a full quarter-sheet, four thicknesses, and none of the folds have brought abrasive into contact with abrasive. Just like your book-fold, but you get a whole quarter-sheet, not a skinny eighth!
I was a Builder and I'd make him pull off the end cap and redo in the custom homes I built. Eventually that filler gets bumped by a vacuum and cracks and often chips out. Then your customers think what else is simply covered over. The end result is a bad or indifferent reputation...
I can say as a contractor that what he's showing will work in a pinch. We're all advancing our skills at carpentry (in this case trim), hopefully. This is something anyone can do when presented with this problem, whether they cut the trim or not. As a pro tip I will say this on topic: No need to carry any special fillers or spackling. Just mix latex glue in water, not much glue, just enough to make the water look milky (I use stone glue it's cheaper and Ialways l always have leftovers from concrete work, I suppose wood glue could work). Use the milky water to mix durabond or other hot mud. Fill with that. Won't shrink, very strong. In a pinch we've used this recipe to level low spots on floors before laying hardwood or click together. Cheers
I always like seeing what others do. I have used putty, caulk, bondo, and even durabond. One has to be creative when working on old (75yrs plus) homes, nothing is close to consistent or square. Bows in the floor, wall not square to each other, etc. Makes it fun.
I had a good technique when I did a lot of baseboard. Have short trial angles cut out and keep them in your tool belt pocket. You can see how off you are from 45 degrees, either inside or outside corners.
Awesome. Now I know how to fix my baseboards. Yep, new build and this is how the “pros” left them. Actually the open corners are the least of the issue but I think sanding fixes most of the problems and then repainting
I was a professional trim carpenter for a few years. I found the reason most people had bad miters was a result of laying the baseboard down and tilting the blade - bad method. Better to stand up baseboard and turn table. another tip - never 45 and inside corner - one piece square and cope the other piece to meet it, you will never have an open corner. If you want a line to cope hit the baseboard with a 45 and follow the inside edge of the cut.
Glad I was able to help. Make sure you try the coping saw for the inside miters. Back around 1980 we were doing a lot of upscale houses with Mahogany, a gap or filler was not an option. A trick if you are using finished wood like Mahogany and there and there is a tiny gap on an outside miter which can happen if the wall is not a perfect 90 degrees is just lightly tap the corner of the joint and it will close it up so it doesn't catch your eye. Back to my bathroom reno. Cheers
I watched Scottish finishing carpenter do a high end dental office with 1 1/4" X 6" oak. All the inside and rounded outside corners where perfect, no fillers used. It is possible to do a good job. We all can do it.
jaycue7 it’s a play on words. It’s an amalgamation of the talents of Ben. It means “carpenter”, “painter”, “drywaller”, and “trimmer/finisher”. I put all that into a “made up” word. It was an attempt to be funny. I guess it’s not for everyone?
Or when u are cutting and installing skirting boards Save the sawdust and mix the sawdust with pva glue which dries clear Mix it up so its quite wet and use this to fill any gaps. A perfect match wood filler and can b painted or stained ☺
I consider Him a Professor. Damn, the thing I've learned from Him. Than U sincerely Vancouver Carpenter. I hope hope U & your family are safe & healthy amid this Pandemic Catastrophe.
About fifteen years ago I put put up some 4x4 posts on my screen porch, There was open grain in the knotholes and a few other divots that needed to be filled. I used Bondo (a polyester resin-based putty used for auto body filler). It's non-shrinking and extremely strong, and it sands very well too. To finish sealing the knots I used dewaxed shellac to seal them and prevent resin bleed-through, which will happen with Southern Yellow Pine, regardless of how many coats of paint you put on it. They look great today, so it worked well. I can't tell where any of the knots are--the paint is smooth and there's no bleed-through to leave a hint. Great video BTW. I've heard that if the gap is very minor you can take the smooth edge of a Phillips (or Robertson) screwdriver and press it against the edge of the miter to round over the edge and fill in the gap. Obviously that wouldn't work well for a gap as large as you were hiding--the corner would be too rounded and not look good.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot...another product you can get at the home centers (in the paint department) is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that you mix with water to a putty consistency and it dries a beige-brown. Like Bondo, it dries without shrinking and is very strong and hard. It sands well and takes paint well too. A good alternative to Bondo, and easier to mix since you just add a little bit of water and stir. I use it a lot when I was a teenager building scenery for my HO railroad. It made great rocks and cliffs.
Another trick when you are filling those cracks and then painting, is to use an old putty knife to stick under the trim. It keeps the mess off the floor, just remember to keep wiping the knife off when you are using it while painting.
Taping/putty knife shield on a wood floor is asking for scratches, Tile only. If you have a floor/base gap(you suck) then just use a 3×5 note card(keep a pack in truck) as a shield.
We all have tar paper leftover from doing a roof. Cut some into 4" wide strips and use them to tuck under baseboard, etc. It is stiff, thin and does not scratch or mark. I have been doing it for years and keep a small wad of strips specially for the purpose, reusing them. 😊
After asking a few carpenters that do this work for a living, i found out there are several factors for why the gaps could appear in the trim work after installation. One reason is the trim needs to be acclimated prior to installation, this is mostly never done during construction. The second reason is the corners or joints needs to glued and pinned, that can help quite a bit. Third reason is the temperature changes inside the house, its generally expansion and contraction. I'm in New Jersey and the trim in my house shows some gaps from time to time, more so after a really cold winter.
You are absolutely correct but the #1 reason in my opinion is the piece are cut incorrectly and that is usually because they are using and older saw that it no longer accurate. Plus if there is a huge gap to start you shouldn't nail it! I always double check my finish saws for straight, 90 and 45 angles. most saws have adjustment screws and stops to help zero everything. And like he said in the video, for outside corners going a little over 45 helps the outside corner touch which is the first part you'll notice.
I use wood putty instead of calk for most gap filling. It gives a clean, sharp edge that (as you showed) can be sanded. Also, putty provides some structure making the gap less likely to reopen. Thank you for another great video.
I appreciate all of your videos, and during the COVID outbreak, I used some extra time to do some of this stuff myself...and it’s very cool do do something RIGHT that I would have either paid someone to do, or with small stuff, botched it myself, or just live with it. For the pros complaining...why are you clicking if you’re already so good?
Great video.... I’ve said it before.... you always seem to give tips right when I need them. Putting up baseboard and this tip is awesome! Thanks for the videos!!!!
You use a bevel to do your mitre corners, no corner is ever 90 degrees so you need to use the intersect the angle technique and then draw it out and use your bevel to get the angles right. But this is about filling the gap that has already been made and the VC carpenter does a good job IMO.
I gotta say, this video helped me way more than expected. I did the caulking for miters and it does shrink. You just saved my life with the wood glue thing
Switch your miter saw to about 51°. It increases the lead of your "point" . You may wind up with a small gap on top of where your wall corner meets both planes but it's a small gap and very easy to caulk.
I love the line "Caulk and paint, make a Carpenter what he ain't!" (I refer to myself and no one else, LOL!) Great tips - I've been doing the caulk bit and always disappointed. Thank You!
This is usually caused by to much mud on the corner bead. You can fix this a couple of ways. One mark the top of the base board, and shave the mud off below the line, you corner closes right up! Second approach is to cut your trim a hair long and float the trim away from the wall, caulking the gap at the top. And yes, you can also cut a 46, or 47 degree miter. "Putty and paint make the carpenter what he aint"
I run trim all day long. Unless it's stain grade, I'm not wasting all that time to make it 46⁰ . I usually just make an outside corner a little bit longer to give the installer a bit to work with. Then caulking the top isn't as noticeable.
@@kristomat I guess I started when I was in my mid twenties, and now in my mid 60's, so been doing stuff for a few years. Doesn't matter how long anyway, being excellent matters. Even though I have been training people, I still have stuff to learn and do not get defensive about what I don't know.
Thanks. This really helped me out. I have been trying to figure out how to make my baseboards look better and this video popped up on my feed. It answer a lot of my questions about why my joints look like crap. Thank you for making videos.
Fun, isn't it? :) I've been working on a remodel in a spare bedroom over a couple of months. Level 5 finish over knockdown texture wall and painted popcorn ceiling (1971 house, likely asbestos, already painted by previous owners). Putting my final skim coat on the ceiling tomorrow, then sand and primer before paint. Ben's videos have been kinda following along where I've been in my spare time. One wall had old baseboard electrical (flipped that 12ga wiring and box around for a dedicated outdoor 20A utility circuit, all wiring was run and breakers still in the box, wiring disconnected), cable TV inlet, phone jack, poor patching, curtain rod pullouts, nail pops from the original build, etc, so I practiced a bunch of different filling and taping techniques. My 10yo daughter is getting that bedroom when I'm done and she loves watching the videos and seeing the results when she gets home from school. :) We're just about to trim now and I'll be building a wide flower pot holding window sill. :) Informative videos and fun to watch.
I'm a trim carpenter. We were taught to cut at 46.5° for a "90°" corner. As well as I find it's more accurate to lay a piece of base at the corner and scribe a mark where the corner meets the base. Miters come of perfect every single time.
I've done this before on a couple of corners I screwed up and was running low on trim. It was my house and it bothered me because, while you couldn't see it, I knew what I did. Staining all of my work in our current house so I'll have to get it all right.
OK! As a DIY’er I’m hooked...subscribed. I just finished a room with shiplap and every board required 22 degree bevel cuts....wish I would have watched this first.
well uhh golly gee. Mr. Vancouver smoosier and yourself have really helped me out a great deal I reckon. Ya see I'm from them there east coast-ish sides of the U.S. and so I weren't edumacated to the word there uhhh spackle n mud. huhuh, You fellers sure is smart ones. BTW its "Drywall Joint Compound" if ya wanna get so fn technical like that, not mud, I coulda enjoyed the vid if it weren't for that comment, oh and his other lame attempts at jokes, and him in general. performing scripted simpleton repairs my 7yo girl can do. snowflakes making stereotypes!! "Drives me crazy!" >rolls eyes
@@petepistachio8229is that the thing to do? call a child ya never met a dope? and this is the highlighted reply?!? Good thing you're too fn undereducated to waste my time with. you have a pleasant day there pal.
It should have been glued properly as the mitres are fitted ,what your doing is closing the gate after the horse got out, it's dodgy work on your part. If you come across dodgy mitre work that hasn't been glued, yes what your doing is correct.
For the "pros" ragging this guy, he is helping the diy-ers, those of us that may only do this once in their lifetime.
Yep. If they just watched the first 20 secs. he basically disclaims the entire video. As a Contractor, I think his methods are spot on. My favorite comment from below so far is, "Just learn to cut your corners....durr durr..." So, sir/madam, are you claiming that you, a human, are perfect? Thought not. Mistakes are made, it's how you fix them that defines you.
@@TN_Travesty sir/madam????? How dare you assume my gender identity! I am an attack helicopter damnit!
J. Ray Redden , exactly!
J. Ray Redden everyone’s a professional tough guy on the internet.
No, no, we just like goofing on Canadians, man. Besides, I dig how he likes living on the edge and not using any tape on the floor. I was kn the edge of my seat wigh that one. Whew!
😂”I don’t know why you would have quarter inch gaps”
Well, shit.. I don’t know why I would either 😂😂😂😂
@@chairmanofthebored8684 🤣🤣🤣
😂
i dont know why i watched this, i dont even have a house
LOL the same reason I'll watch a "caring for a sick iguana in rural Indiana during a thunderstorm" at 1:30 am.....it's random and interesting for some reason. I'll see my 12 year old watch a video on "12 ways to make eggs". He's years off from ever making an egg & I'll ask him why he's watching that, he'll shrug and go "I dunno"...exactly kid, exactly. :)
you can have baseboards in your cardboard box
@A Bigs And apparently you are one of them, judging by your use of language.
Fill in the vents in your tent then
You will some day.
Let me tell you how I got a quarter inch gap in my mitered inner corner....on my back porch, in my very old house, where Plato’s world of ‘perfect solids, and perfect geometry’ did not visit.
for those wildly contoured profiles, try a guitar pick for getting filler up in them mitres!
Whoa! Nice one👍
Damn guitar players have all the hacks haha
Don't fret....
I prefer a dental syringe
pat ryan Now I have to play guitar to do finish carpentry!
sometime, somehow, somewhere this video will help a lot of people who want to fix around their house. I like this work because I don't have enough money to hire a professional>+1
I've never lived in a house in my life with perfectly mitred skirting boards, even when I had a house built from scratch. The only gap filling I've ever witnessed was with thick gloss paint. So I hope whoever buys this place drops something on the floor so they get down on their knees and appreciate the effort!
Incidentally, here in the UK tiny gaps often occur because the timber stock wasn't seasoned in the house after occupation, i.e. the skirtings were put on during build and often before the central heating goes on. At the point of inspection the mitres are perfect. Then the family moves in, turns on the heating, and gaps sometimes (not always) start to appear. It's just part of the character of the house I suppose.
A Teleskier ...especially if you get the wood from Selco, it’s all wet one end and twists half an inch out of square, you can always go to wickes and get 100 knots with a bit of timber joining them up.
@@thpxs0554 :D spot on.
This comment made me laugh
When the heat is turned on for the first time, don't turn the temperature up all at once. Raise the temperature over a couple of days, otherwise you can crack all of the caulk.
“Do your best and caulk the rest”
Floor layer?
A little puffy and a little paint will make us carpenters look good!
Mexican wisdom.
That's my middle name
Caulk and Paint is what a Carpenter Ain't
By far the clearest most concise most visually interesting and easy to understand instructions - as well as being clearly present. I had done 15 years of carpentry and still learn something new every time I watch one of his instructional videos. Even just getting a refresher course on the basics makes me realize how much of the small subtle things I’d forgotten. Bravo Ben!
Well said Sir !
these bot comments are getting out of control .
Note to self: Before committing a crime, ... repair some molding.
Alright lads we've all had coffee so let's just take in what's being said, appreciate the fact he's posted a video to help people,and when that's done give your fannies a wipe and stop complaining and ask yourself why you've just watched a video on dealing with bad corners 🤔
Right, its not like anyone was forced to watch this.
Wait, what am I doing here? Oops
I always try to fix...when it’s broke...🤦♂️
Hilarious
Like if you read this mans comment in an Irish accent
Before we answer your dipshit question Mr KnowsItAll why don't you explain your being here?.. OMG'sh could it be you snuck in to watch and learn from one of the best on how to fix an open miter cut because you jacked a miter cut ?... Everyone has a reason for being here bro so come with it.!!!.. FYI, mine for this one is just because he's a real cutie 😍 since I don't muck my miter cuts😜
I love your stuff. I'm a union carpenter Foreman in Manhatten. But I mostly deal with hanging metal/ wood ceilings in high end spaces. So to say you've taught me a lot about taping, mud and spackle would be an understatement. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
The amount of effort to make a video and upload it is never worth the 413 thumbs downs. Thank you for sharing this tip, this is helpful and appreciated.
Maybe instead of telling people they blew it, and blaming his saw, maybe he should change his approach.
I’m a master journeyman cabinetmaker and you doing a lot of people a great service!
When all the comments are complaining about angry comments that you can't see, because there are so many comments complaining about the angry comments.
John Martinez A lot of the complainers are people saying just be good and you won’t have corners like this.
The real reason people should complain, is wood filler or drywall puddy are actually terrible for joints and open miters. If you can’t caulk it or draw it in with a trim screw in the MDF, it needs to be re cut.
The reason, is that caulk doesn’t shrink, when you paint caulk it dries and can’t fully stretch.
These joints act as expansion points, when you fill the gaps with wood filler you eliminate all movable space. Usually it’s not an issue, BUT it can cause your trim to buckle and draw away from the wall.
@@TwoBitty Like no trim carpenter's are using wood or CA glues on their miter and copped joints, right? Besides, most paint grade moldings, baseboard, etc. are made of short sections of finger-jointed Pine or MDF with a factory applied primer. Those two factors blowup the whole joint needs to expand and contract argument, not to mention all the fasteners along its length, used to secure it to the wall (bottom plate and/or studs). Also, no one in their rightmind is buying premium stain-grade one piece clear lengths of Popular, Pine, etc. mouldings to painting them.
@@TwoBitty caulk doesn't shrink huh? Not at all..not one bit huh? U sure about that? I'm talking about Alex Plus here...No shrinkage?
Perfectly said...my first thought when scrolling down to the comment section was about how many snotty carpenters would comment.. but now I'm actually getting used to the fact that the comments are more about how snotty the snotty comments are and I really never see the snotty comments and don't even know if they exist
First time I've seen one of your videos. I'm a 66 year old woman but like to do some of my own home improvements. I will be watching more and thank you. Better late than never.
It's funny how it looks so simple but when I attempt it In realize I need to go watch how you do it;) Your videos are awesome and right to the point. Thank you
I've been doing Home Remodeling for a long time, but I find your videos very informative, I always seem to learn a little something
WOW, I can not believe all the "holier than thou" attitude. I am a DIY'r and I appreciate videos like this to help out. I don't think this was aimed at the pros or the one who think they are pros. Besides why are all the "pros" watching this. :) Thanks for the video.
Jerk Off All Trades should be your channel name
Yeah, most certainly, most pro carpenters, don't do their own painting. If a pro leave too many open joints, the painters may back charge the contractor, or at the very least mock the skills of the carpenter, and demand beers after work.
Jerk Of All Trades : Just Jerk !
Because adding information to their database of tricks is what MAKES them PROS! The rest of you just stay mediocre, we don't care...unless you're working for us!
As a construction working I really appreciate these videos man! Seriously thank you . While I’m
Drywalling I watch all these videos and keep leaning things I don’t already know. I feel if we don’t want to learn ,we don’t wanna get better
BIG FOOT you right... who doesn't want to get better
Always appreciate someone who seeks to continually improve their craft.
Awesome video. Now, how does one go about filling in gaps on inside corners? All I'm gonna say is "I might" or "I might not" need to see a video on this matter....rofl
Just want to send a thanks to you, Vancouver Carpenter. I did a small home reno project building a wall for my wife’s music room, and it went pretty well. I watched a few of your videos to help me learn what to do and not do with drywall and trim. Thanks for doing what you do!
Cutting outside corners at 46 degrees instead of 45 degrees, does this also apply to (most) inside corners?
Are people here really blaming the saw instead of the wall? Lol every brand new house I've done this in has bowed walls and not perfect 90 degree corners. It's a catastrophe
Finish Carpenter here. I always cut my outside Miters at 46 degrees. Take some sandpaper and dull the edges, the end.
Never blame the workman or the tool, blame someone else. The wall is not straight. 🤷♀️
My house is from 1900 and there no 90 degree angles anywhere.
@@Traitorman..Proverbs26.11 Yep, with you there.
Super well explained and calm and detailed
Thank you so much
New subscriber
With your attention to detail, I wish you'd been my contractor. Then I wouldn't be fixing all the messy bits my contractor left behind. :(
Always amazed to see contractors that care about the quality of their work. So hard to find.
Especially for women to find quality in contractors.
Not really "quality" if the miter is wide open. Should have been cut right the first time. I've seen lots of finishers do this and say "whatever its paint grade trim". So if you're a finisher that does this what are you going to do on the stain grade jobs? I've had finishers that had never worked with stain grade try and throw it up like this with open joints and gaps just to have to pull it off and replace it. Plus all that filler at the tip, hollow behind will dry and crack later and look bad down the road once the homeowner is moved in and comfortable. Doesn't give the homeowner a good feeling when they're new home starts showing flaws shortly after moving in
@@bolerdweller if you need to fill your joints, that makes you a filler, not a finisher
@@calebsaville8416 yup. It's faster to do it right than to put it up and have to make it "look" right
Auto Body filler (Bondo) works great, dries fast, can be sanded within a few minutes
Yeah, works great as long as it's a painted project. They have some nice 3 part epoxies that are highly stainable. And really easy to mold. Just in case you ever need it. Just make sure you wear latex gloves with it.
As I do my final vertical wipe upwards I slowly slide the blade sideways away from the vertical edge which helps prevent excess filler from piling up along that edge. A common reason for open joints at corners is simply out-of-square drywall due to imperfect framing. I cut tests out of short pieces when I'm installing Oak, etc., trim to be sure of my installation before I ruin long pieces of trim.
This is one guy who's videos I don't talk shit on. He's informative, respectable and gives solid opinionated info unlike most of youtube. Also nice to see somebody not constantly spamming shit products that asia makes.
Hahah...at first when I read you comment, I thought you said "this is the only guy I don't talk shit on"...and thought, this guy must be a real Douchebag...hahaha
I agree, this guy is great.
I do not cut miters just square cut and plenty of Bondo ...
Could you shoot a video, please? thanks.
One trick we used to use on miter folded beams was to burnish the corners with a screwdriver, or anything that's round, hard, and smooth. You rub the miter to bend those fibers together and close up your corner, it has it's limitations but it's saved me a lot of filling.
It's those extra handy tips, like the one about fingerprint removal at 5:40, that really set you apart. Thanks.
I gave automotive body filler, "Bondo" a try for some really bad cracks. It was far better than any wood filler I've ever used, it doesn't crack or shrink, and it gives a more permanent fix. For outside corners that are subject to damage afterwards, Bondo is better.... Of course you need to paint afterwards.
Bondo is great but I hate using it. Too smelly.
Yea smelly and the powder from sanding can stain stuff. Great when needed but it has its issues
spelunkerd good tip. It's the only solid way to patch a hollow core door
@Moon Pie wood expands and contracts bondo is very hard and will always crack some. But hey what you gonna do. I use the same method
I just saw Bondo brand wood filler at Lowe's a few days ago.
when he said you could commit crimes now that you have no finger tips I laughed harder than i should have lol
You get quarter inch gaps in your woodwork because your contractor hired a literal crack head to frame your home and there isn’t one true square corner in any place in it.
That's the truth
“Idk why you have half inch gaps in your trim”
Me, sitting here with a 3/4 inch gap : 😅 😅 😅
Recently bought my first house, getting little bits done until I'm more confident handling the bigger stuff - I thought I was pretty good with plastering (as we call it here...) until I saw your videos. Thanks for the education!
I had no idea that some people call it mud :D I love that name for it!
I definitely had a 'told ya so' moment when some got on the floor :P
I neeed to marry the Vancouver carpenter 😍😍😍👬👬👬
Tip for using a sheet of sandpaper: fold in half one way, then fold it in half the other. Now there's a cross of folds dividing it in four. Tear down one of the folds to the center - just half way across. Now fold the sheet round on itself (fold left, fold up, fold right for instance) and you have a full quarter-sheet, four thicknesses, and none of the folds have brought abrasive into contact with abrasive. Just like your book-fold, but you get a whole quarter-sheet, not a skinny eighth!
Nice!
"Wear away your fingertips and commit crimes!" 😂😂😂
I read this comment exactly when he was saying the line haha.
As AvE told us: Measure once, cut twice.
1. Measure once
2. Cut twice
3. Go back to home depot and get another board
I cut this damn thing twice....and it's still too short!
526 unemployed Finish Carpenters dislike this.
Oh yeah That’s right who cares.
That's pretty funny.
If you're an unemployed finish carpenter. There's probably a good reason. And it that reason does not include spackle or wood filler.
More like 564 decent finish carpenters wanting people to learn how to do their job and not rely on putty and paint.
I was a Builder and I'd make him pull off the end cap and redo in the custom homes I built. Eventually that filler gets bumped by a vacuum and cracks and often chips out. Then your customers think what else is simply covered over. The end result is a bad or indifferent reputation...
The problem is not the saw, it's walls that are never flat or perpendicular to each other. I did my basement years ago and looks like shit.
Well "quality boy" git yer a$$ down thur an FIX IT!
I can say as a contractor that what he's showing will work in a pinch. We're all advancing our skills at carpentry (in this case trim), hopefully. This is something anyone can do when presented with this problem, whether they cut the trim or not.
As a pro tip I will say this on topic:
No need to carry any special fillers or spackling. Just mix latex glue in water, not much glue, just enough to make the water look milky (I use stone glue it's cheaper and Ialways l always have leftovers from concrete work, I suppose wood glue could work). Use the milky water to mix durabond or other hot mud. Fill with that. Won't shrink, very strong.
In a pinch we've used this recipe to level low spots on floors before laying hardwood or click together.
Cheers
Would Weldbond work in this mix?
I always like seeing what others do. I have used putty, caulk, bondo, and even durabond. One has to be creative when working on old (75yrs plus) homes, nothing is close to consistent or square. Bows in the floor, wall not square to each other, etc. Makes it fun.
It's not spackle? I've been living a lie!
I had a good technique when I did a lot of baseboard. Have short trial angles cut out and keep them in your tool belt pocket. You can see how off you are from 45 degrees, either inside or outside corners.
Exactly!
Looks like new skirting.
If you fucked up your mitre be a pro a cut a new peice.
Do your best, and caulk the rest.
Barry M haha
LOL!,
“A little caulk and paint will make it what it ain’t.”
No, use the correct tools of the trade and get it right the first time. 🤣🤷♂
Barry M 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😂😂😂😍
Barry M put a little caulk in the crack...lol
Awesome. Now I know how to fix my baseboards. Yep, new build and this is how the “pros” left them. Actually the open corners are the least of the issue but I think sanding fixes most of the problems and then repainting
I was a professional trim carpenter for a few years. I found the reason most people had bad miters was a result of laying the baseboard down and tilting the blade - bad method. Better to stand up baseboard and turn table. another tip - never 45 and inside corner - one piece square and cope the other piece to meet it, you will never have an open corner. If you want a line to cope hit the baseboard with a 45 and follow the inside edge of the cut.
Glad I was able to help. Make sure you try the coping saw for the inside miters. Back around 1980 we were doing a lot of upscale houses with Mahogany, a gap or filler was not an option. A trick if you are using finished wood like Mahogany and there and there is a tiny gap on an outside miter which can happen if the wall is not a perfect 90 degrees is just lightly tap the corner of the joint and it will close it up so it doesn't catch your eye. Back to my bathroom reno. Cheers
I watched Scottish finishing carpenter do a high end dental office with 1 1/4" X 6" oak. All the inside and rounded outside corners where perfect, no fillers used. It is possible to do a good job. We all can do it.
Ah a real finish carpenter.
@@gomalibusurf6098 there actually are plenty of videos coping inside Corners is a widely known practice it's definitely no secret tip
Really enjoy your meticulous nature. The "little" things do matter, separates pro's from all the rest. 👍👍
“Vancouver Carpaintdrytrim’er”😎😉👌
what!?
jaycue7 it’s a play on words. It’s an amalgamation of the talents of Ben. It means “carpenter”, “painter”, “drywaller”, and “trimmer/finisher”. I put all that into a “made up” word. It was an attempt to be funny. I guess it’s not for everyone?
@@stonesourG6 brilliant
I am a first time homeowner and I just discovered this exact problem in my home....this video is a God send. Thank you soo much. Greatly appreciated!
Or when u are cutting and installing skirting boards Save the sawdust and mix the sawdust with pva glue which dries clear Mix it up so its quite wet and use this to fill any gaps. A perfect match wood filler and can b painted or stained ☺
Apply the stain into the wet glue mix or you wont have good stain cover.
I consider Him a Professor. Damn, the thing I've learned from Him. Than U sincerely Vancouver Carpenter. I hope hope U & your family are safe & healthy amid this Pandemic Catastrophe.
About fifteen years ago I put put up some 4x4 posts on my screen porch, There was open grain in the knotholes and a few other divots that needed to be filled. I used Bondo (a polyester resin-based putty used for auto body filler). It's non-shrinking and extremely strong, and it sands very well too. To finish sealing the knots I used dewaxed shellac to seal them and prevent resin bleed-through, which will happen with Southern Yellow Pine, regardless of how many coats of paint you put on it. They look great today, so it worked well. I can't tell where any of the knots are--the paint is smooth and there's no bleed-through to leave a hint. Great video BTW. I've heard that if the gap is very minor you can take the smooth edge of a Phillips (or Robertson) screwdriver and press it against the edge of the miter to round over the edge and fill in the gap. Obviously that wouldn't work well for a gap as large as you were hiding--the corner would be too rounded and not look good.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot...another product you can get at the home centers (in the paint department) is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It's a powder that you mix with water to a putty consistency and it dries a beige-brown. Like Bondo, it dries without shrinking and is very strong and hard. It sands well and takes paint well too. A good alternative to Bondo, and easier to mix since you just add a little bit of water and stir. I use it a lot when I was a teenager building scenery for my HO railroad. It made great rocks and cliffs.
The shade for 1/4 inch gaps 😅😅😅 I feel called out
I'll try the 46degree miters in my diy corners Thanks for the tips 👍🏽
Lol yeah dont ask why mine are bigger than an eight. I need a new miter saw
Spackle and paint make up for what a carpenter ain't!
Another trick when you are filling those cracks and then painting, is to use an old putty knife to stick under the trim. It keeps the mess off the floor, just remember to keep wiping the knife off when you are using it while painting.
@ Yes. Or an old piece of siding or anything flat.
Taping/putty knife shield on a wood floor is asking for scratches, Tile only. If you have a floor/base gap(you suck) then just use a 3×5 note card(keep a pack in truck) as a shield.
We all have tar paper leftover from doing a roof. Cut some into 4" wide strips and use them to tuck under baseboard, etc. It is stiff, thin and does not scratch or mark. I have been doing it for years and keep a small wad of strips specially for the purpose, reusing them. 😊
You're the best! You give me solid Mr. Rogers vibes just not old and for adults ❤
In this carpentry video, we'll use all the drywalling skills we've used to date.
Try to get your finger prints after a few weeks sanding mounding by hand 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Police Officer: you don’t have a match, who are you????
Man you have the best stuff, just amazing. I have learned so much from you to use on my house. Thank you so so much for your videos!
Awesome. Doing a remodel and definitely going to need that.
You know how to fix that caulk shrinking issue? Add more caulk later
Pro move.
After asking a few carpenters that do this work for a living, i found out there are several factors for why the gaps could appear in the trim work after installation. One reason is the trim needs to be acclimated prior to installation, this is mostly never done during construction. The second reason is the corners or joints needs to glued and pinned, that can help quite a bit. Third reason is the temperature changes inside the house, its generally expansion and contraction. I'm in New Jersey and the trim in my house shows some gaps from time to time, more so after a really cold winter.
You are absolutely correct but the #1 reason in my opinion is the piece are cut incorrectly and that is usually because they are using and older saw that it no longer accurate. Plus if there is a huge gap to start you shouldn't nail it! I always double check my finish saws for straight, 90 and 45 angles. most saws have adjustment screws and stops to help zero everything. And like he said in the video, for outside corners going a little over 45 helps the outside corner touch which is the first part you'll notice.
I use wood putty instead of calk for most gap filling. It gives a clean, sharp edge that (as you showed) can be sanded. Also, putty provides some structure making the gap less likely to reopen. Thank you for another great video.
Glue the joints before you fix it simple 👍🏻
I appreciate all of your videos, and during the COVID outbreak, I used some extra time to do some of this stuff myself...and it’s very cool do do something RIGHT that I would have either paid someone to do, or with small stuff, botched it myself, or just live with it. For the pros complaining...why are you clicking if you’re already so good?
You can close these up using a blade to shave the interior slightly. It’ll butt perfectly
Good idea, but it'll be coping. Right?
Thanks bro! You just saved me a lot in recutting! Not the best at molding.
Good job....another trick is to make outside cuts 46 degrees & inside cuts 44
Great video.... I’ve said it before.... you always seem to give tips right when I need them. Putting up baseboard and this tip is awesome! Thanks for the videos!!!!
You use a bevel to do your mitre corners, no corner is ever 90 degrees so you need to use the intersect the angle technique and then draw it out and use your bevel
to get the angles right. But this is about filling the gap that has already been made and the VC carpenter does a good job IMO.
I gotta say, this video helped me way more than expected. I did the caulking for miters and it does shrink. You just saved my life with the wood glue thing
Make it look so easy; meanwhile, 1hr later for the rest of us.
Wait! I'm from the U.S. and I know what the difference is. I still use hot mud instead though. Lol
Open miters are annoying. Cut your corners at 45.75 degrees and you should be good to go on 88% of corners.
Exactly. Thanks.
Switch your miter saw to about 51°. It increases the lead of your "point" . You may wind up with a small gap on top of where your wall corner meets both planes but it's a small gap and very easy to caulk.
we don't have Dyna Patch in the states, nor do we have Elmer's Wood filler either.. do you know of something comparable to these?
Look at Walmart.com. I found it there
do your best then caulk the rest
Now that's practical advice I can use.
Yep. "Caulk and paint makes you the carpenter you aint"
@@x_____________5550 grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint
A little dap will do ya
the bigger the gob, the better the job
I love the line "Caulk and paint, make a Carpenter what he ain't!" (I refer to myself and no one else, LOL!) Great tips - I've been doing the caulk bit and always disappointed. Thank You!
"Grinder and paint, for the welder I ain't!" I just weld things properly with a high level of skill, so I don't grind much.
spackle and paint and call it what it ain’t
This is usually caused by to much mud on the corner bead. You can fix this a couple of ways. One mark the top of the base board, and shave the mud off below the line, you corner closes right up! Second approach is to cut your trim a hair long and float the trim away from the wall, caulking the gap at the top. And yes, you can also cut a 46, or 47 degree miter.
"Putty and paint make the carpenter what he aint"
46° miter is the easiest and best way though
When Captain Spackle does outside corners he uses 42° and a whole tube of caulk. Good video.
No drywall corner is 90*, because of the corner bead. Never cut a 45*.
I run trim all day long. Unless it's stain grade, I'm not wasting all that time to make it 46⁰ . I usually just make an outside corner a little bit longer to give the installer a bit to work with. Then caulking the top isn't as noticeable.
@@kristomat So you shift the work to someone else, so you can be faster?
You mean get the painters to do their job and caulk the trim? We're talking a 1/16 here. I've been doing this for 20 years. How about you?
@@kristomat I guess I started when I was in my mid twenties, and now in my mid 60's, so been doing stuff for a few years. Doesn't matter how long anyway, being excellent matters. Even though I have been training people, I still have stuff to learn and do not get defensive about what I don't know.
@@kristomat Interesting too though, you can do a better job apparently, because you do stain-grade work ?
Thanks. This really helped me out. I have been trying to figure out how to make my baseboards look better and this video popped up on my feed. It answer a lot of my questions about why my joints look like crap. Thank you for making videos.
You can always use a damp rag to clean the excesses, I use those same products at work ✌️
If fixing open miters that are going to be stained not painted what should you use?
A time machine😂.
seriously though, just a stainable woodfiller
VC: "I was using this crappy old saw"
Me: How'd he take my saw??? (seriously, I have that exact saw)
Same here! 😔
🥺. His is nicer than mine😰
it would make more sense to show how to cut trim correctly rather than how to fill gaps from a hack job.
Thanks! After 4 months of remodeling my house, most of which I have left to do is the baseboard and I'm sure this will help.
Fun, isn't it? :) I've been working on a remodel in a spare bedroom over a couple of months. Level 5 finish over knockdown texture wall and painted popcorn ceiling (1971 house, likely asbestos, already painted by previous owners). Putting my final skim coat on the ceiling tomorrow, then sand and primer before paint. Ben's videos have been kinda following along where I've been in my spare time. One wall had old baseboard electrical (flipped that 12ga wiring and box around for a dedicated outdoor 20A utility circuit, all wiring was run and breakers still in the box, wiring disconnected), cable TV inlet, phone jack, poor patching, curtain rod pullouts, nail pops from the original build, etc, so I practiced a bunch of different filling and taping techniques. My 10yo daughter is getting that bedroom when I'm done and she loves watching the videos and seeing the results when she gets home from school. :) We're just about to trim now and I'll be building a wide flower pot holding window sill. :) Informative videos and fun to watch.
Idk why you have 1/4 in. Gaps 🤣 that's hilarious. Thanks for the awesome vid
Loving the content ! Really motivating me to get my basement done!
Did you ever finish?
@@hatchetrob I did - super happy with the results.
The angle of the wall was not measured properly or the saw was not adjusted properly
I'm a trim carpenter. We were taught to cut at 46.5° for a "90°" corner. As well as I find it's more accurate to lay a piece of base at the corner and scribe a mark where the corner meets the base. Miters come of perfect every single time.
I've done this before on a couple of corners I screwed up and was running low on trim. It was my house and it bothered me because, while you couldn't see it, I knew what I did. Staining all of my work in our current house so I'll have to get it all right.
OK! As a DIY’er I’m hooked...subscribed. I just finished a room with shiplap and every board required 22 degree bevel cuts....wish I would have watched this first.
Thank you for the ending statement! Spackle is not drywall mud! Drives me crazy!
Tyler Wilson. triggered easy? lol
Lol nah just like proper terminology of materials 👌
well uhh golly gee. Mr. Vancouver smoosier and yourself have really helped me out a great deal I reckon. Ya see I'm from them there east coast-ish sides of the U.S. and so I weren't edumacated to the word there uhhh spackle n mud. huhuh, You fellers sure is smart ones. BTW its "Drywall Joint Compound" if ya wanna get so fn technical like that, not mud, I coulda enjoyed the vid if it weren't for that comment, oh and his other lame attempts at jokes, and him in general. performing scripted simpleton repairs my 7yo girl can do. snowflakes making stereotypes!! "Drives me crazy!" >rolls eyes
blackie607 great. You bred an offspring??? Now there is a dope in training on this earth.
@@petepistachio8229is that the thing to do? call a child ya never met a dope? and this is the highlighted reply?!? Good thing you're too fn undereducated to waste my time with. you have a pleasant day there pal.
It should have been glued properly as the mitres are fitted ,what your doing is closing the gate after the horse got out, it's dodgy work on your part. If you come across dodgy mitre work that hasn't been glued, yes what your doing is correct.