Stop Choosing The Wrong Caulking! (Get What The Pros Use)
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- Опубліковано 17 лис 2022
- I wish I knew the contents of this video when I first started out! A simple guide to choosing the proper caulk for all those interior jobs around your home.
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The Link above is Amazon Affiliate, a great way to support the channel!
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A lot of people asking about the red caps for storage in the video. Here is the affiliate Amazon link: amzn.to/3Xkqs9y
Sooo...these are caulk gun "condoms". Brilliant. Normally I just use blue painters tape for short term. A 2 1/2" screw and tape long term.
@@mikejohnson9118 Yep, Its so Your "Caulk" doesn't drip...LOL
Hi, blended silicone is not 100%, then what is it? 100% silicone smells vinegar then why?
They expire pretty quickly, I'm curious what the downsides are if I use it expired.
@Militaru Dan 100% silicone can't be dry or solidify if the silicone tube past the due date.
Sometimes, if you are lucky enough, you can still get away with successful results.
But it's a gambling game that may not end well.
The best is to test the past due date tube 24 hrs ahead before the real job begins.
But who actually has the time in reality at the job site?
@Militaru Dan The vinegar smell is the chemical ingredient in the 100% silicone to prevent mold and mildew. Some brands are superior to others.
Eventually, mildew and mold will penatrate into the 100% silicone as it gets old if used around bathrooms that don't maintain good sanitation and upkeep.
Absolutely zero wasted time in getting out this helpful info. Props for making clear concise videos like this.
Glad it was helpful!
A breath of fresh air video. Walk into Lowes and there are shelves full of caulking and I have no idea what I need. Thank you
This is the best video that I have ever seen about which caulk to use. It had enough detail and wasn't overly long.
After all these years, I finally got educated on the proper caulk for a particular job. Absolutely an excellent and informative video. Keeping it simple and interesting. You did it. Thanks.
No, you didn’t.
I have learned to ALWAYS check the best before dates on the tubes, just yesterday I had a guy buy some silicone for sticking down some thresholds on a floating floor and two of the tubes he bought had a best before date of 2011, 11 years past the recommended date!! Also, if you open a tube of 100% silicone and it doesn't have the strong vinegar smell then it's not good, don't use it!
Silicone will only stick to itself, ie glass.
If you are glueing and sealing you need a sealant adhesive
@@janeblogs324 I think you have it backwards, pretty much nothing will stick to silicone once it is applied and cured. I'm using the silicone to stick a plastic/wood threshold to a floating floor which expands and contracts, so a flexible joint is needed.
@@janeblogs324 Silicone IS adhesive/glue made from silicone oil. Nothing sticks to it after cured...not even silicone.
In aviation, the vinegar smell is corrosive with aluminum. I would be concerned with the corrosion.
@@thecrittergitter7576 That's part of the reason fighter jets don't have batteries. They start a small turbine generator with an air tank. It also saves weight.
Awesome demonstration. Drying out the "strings" of caulk for a side-by-side comparison is just a genius way to demonstrate flexibility.
Thanks, really glad I checked out your video before I went any further with my silicone caulk which I bought because of the easy gun applicator. Big oops on my part. At 78 I am very much a newbie at applying caulking. My husband used to do all of the necessary caulking work. Your video sure is making this job much easier. Thanks again.
No one has ever explained it as well as you. Thank you for examining all the issues so carefully.
Another thing I like about 230 is it doesn't set up hard in the nozzle. I generally squeeze out a small protruding amount at the tip and when that air dries it prevents the product from drying further down the tube. I've been using it for years and have never had it harden so that it had to be thrown out.
It truly is great! Big Stretch does that too, which is nice.
You got to the point, told us which one to choose, then captivated us with the reasons to stay. Nice video.
You are the boss. Your prep and thorough experimentation is phenomenal.
Finally, a thorough explanation of these products. Thanks so much!!
This was enough for me to start using the dynaflex caulk over the others I’ve been using. Big Stretch is my other go to. Good job.
Thank you for this video. I really appreciate how you covered all of the characteristics of each and demonstrated. Wish I had this information years ago. I would also appreciate a video on exterior caulks for siding and trim. My house was resided with LP Smartside about 12 years ago and the OSI Quad caulk has not held up well. I’m not sure if it was the caulk or poor installation by the contractor. A video on exterior caulk and proper removal of old and application of new caulk around window trim, doors and siding corner boards would be much appreciated. 😊
Great job straight and to the point!
Ive been using The Big Stretch for years and swear by it.
BEST caulking brands video I have ever seen and thanks for sharing your professional words of wisdom with all of us!
Great video! I've spent years wondering why there are so darn many options for caulk. This video makes it simple and clear enough that I almost know what I’m doing now.
I will tell you why your wife loves you: you are (at least appear)so innocent. Not sure if it’s entirely good, though.
Thank you ! I had no idea about the roughness of the caulks after drying. It makes sense that the painters pick the Alex Plus which will bond with paint better but I like that the dynaflex will still bond but if you fail to paint it then the cleaning is just as easy as if painted !
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the Dynamic Flex info to avoid future dust issues on top of my trim. I’m just getting ready to update our trim and this IS an awesome tip!
Also, I noticed when you showed the paint board at 2:52 that the Dynaflex has a bit more sheen but that’s probably what makes it easier to wipe away the dust.
This is better than any commercial I've ever watched. This clears up so much confusion.
You summed up 30 years of lessons learned in under 7 min. I remeber caulking cracked stucko walls before repainting & accidentally selected a non printable silicone. Needless to say that was a bunch of wated time. Great overview & recommendation. As a DIY guy no longer in the trades I hate having to buy, store & throw away multiple tunes of caulking so having a good general purpose covers 99% of my applications. You also make a great point onnthe porosity of caulking especially for baseboards or in the kitchen where dust or grease clings to it & just looks disgusting quickly & cleaning is a hassle.
I missed the porosity part. Where did you find that?
Yup, can vouch for Dynaflex, it's great since it covers most of what you need to do, I always keep a few tubes of white and clear in the work van. I also love Lexel for stuff that needs to be waterproof immediately, and crystal clear or needs to be able to be painted later. Lexel is easy to reuse too, only the very tip of the nozzle firms up, so it's easy to use every last bit of the tube over many uses.
Just awesome. Many thx, and remember, laughter is the only tranquilizer that doesn't leave negative side affects. Keep on teaching and keep on smiling.
Thank you so much, just experienced that dryness in the bathroom because I don't know much about it and its differences until I watched your video. Great day to you and yours.
I love Big Stretch because it offers a range of wood-toned colors, is easy to work with and weathers well.
Awesome. I typically go to one end of the spectrum or the other - largely on the basis of paint/no paint. Great to know more about these in-between options! Thanks.
Cheers, thanks for checking out the vid Neil🍻
Wow, this was the best explanation of caulk I have ever watched. Just masterful
Your videos are the BEST! Your clear teaching style, focus on what the viewer needs to know (vs extraneous / nice to know) , and conciseness are very much appreciated by this DIYer. Thank you!
Thanks for such a great video. About to caulk a bunch of baseboard. Going to go with the dynaflex now
Man! You just answered a few questions I didn't know to ask! Thanks for the insight on the differences between them and why you have one that works the vast majority of the time.
Thanks Ben
What mad1 said.
@@cgilleybsw Exactly. Staring at that wall of caulk at Home Depot. Now we know, thanks
This is the video that I had no idea I needed. Been struggling with cracking caulking forever. Just so happened to pick up the dynaflex to give it a try. Great to hear I picked a winner. Thank you!
You nailed it with caulk! This is the best informational video I have seen on UA-cam.
Man these videos are great - I was just faced with this dilemma when I last went to get caulking tubes and had no idea what the differences were between all of the different types. Prior to your tips video I was atrocious and hated to do any caulking. Now, I'm a monster of caulk.
I've been using that Alex 40yr for all my projects the past few years and never had an issue. Will definitely try out the Dynaflex though for my next one
You are great - You have told things that are so important to know as what is the best product/brand for the job and why. Thankyou for this video. Pls keep sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you for the info and demo. I did not know most of this and you presented it in a way I will probably remember 👍
Excellent info in this video & I agree completely. Dap 230 has been my go to for longer than I can remember. When I need a silicone caulk my go-to is Sashco Lexel which is actually not 100% silicone but works better than any silicone I've ever tried and is much clearer than 100% silicone.
Same here. Sashco makes great stuff.
I've definitely been guilty of over-using the two on the far right. However, I did discover the 230 a couple of years ago and have moved to that almost exclusively for my DIY carpentry/trim work. Great stuff!
its good but turns yellow very quickly
@@alpha42069So what do you use?
Loved the comparison board! 🙌
Thank you so much I did my entire main floor with the wrong stuff and now I am doing my second floor and this helps so much. I used the one all the way on the right for the main floor and i hate cleaning the baseboards. You saved med so much time!
Great show! It's been a difficult subject to learn over the years, walking into stores and seeing dozens of different product with little clue which one to purchase. This is very helpful.
🍻 for storage, they make some red silicone caps that are basically tiny condoms. They work pretty well.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you; I didn't know about those silicone caps. They must sell them separately; I'll look for them!
I really like the "Cooks Illustrated" approach to showing youtubers the various product and the pros and cons: I went and bought some DAP 230 for my trim. I have a particular question for which caulk would you use for a kitchen counter backsplash behind the sink faucet? What I used previously before was way to brittle and it got pretty brown and manky. The ideal product would have strong adhesion to prevent any water intrusion, would be elastic to not dry up and get brittle, and would have strong repellant qualities to prevent a manky build-up behind the faucet.
..you said manky.
These videos are awesome! Thanks for putting them together.
Great video! Your insights on professional-grade caulking are really helpful.
I use Dynaflex 230 as well. It's good stuff!
BUT, it has to be painted on trim, especially on baseboard. Reason why is because dust will fall on it and it will be tacky enough, even when dried for a long time, for the dust to stick and look ugly. It also yellows a bit over time. Painting solves that problem. If you are a contractor, you can get away without painting it because you will be long gone before it turns yellow and dusty. But trust me, it must be painted if you want it to look good for a long time.
Fair points Gary. I have a bunch of unpainted dynaflex in my home and have had good success wiping it off.
Great info as always. I used to always use Alex Plus for around baseboards, etc, but with your demonstration I now I realize it only looks good IF you paint it. If not, it picks up dust and dirt stains like a magnet and stains as easily as flat ceiling paint. I'll use Dynaflex next time!
Love love LOVE those red caps. Thanks so much for the recommendation!
Thanks for the video. The 230 works excellent. As for caps I have found wine corks with 1/4 inch hole drilled part way to be awesome caps. When removed its like just opened container fresh and cheaper and fun to collect.
Good video. Not all caulks are created equal.
I started using the dynaflex 230 for most of my baseboard/trim caulking the last year or so. There is something about it too that just makes it "nice" to work with. Can't really even describe it, but it just lays down so clean and smooths out beautifully when you run your finger over it after.
I agree. It both disappears and is ever present. It’s so easy to control, and it’s adhesion and lack of unwanted shrinkage equals confidence in the results.
Just what I needed to know before caulking a fairly large trim job. Thanks!!!
Wow. Ok, you made me a believer. Great information especially with the sound and smooth showcase.
Excellent!
I usually just go for the Alex plus but now I realize I’ve been pretty much doing it wrong. And the points you made about painting over the caulk was excellent too, It’s the same thing with prime trim if you don’t paint it it’s just gonna get extremely dirty because it’s meant to sealed by paint.
Glad to help!
I’m in the same boat. Bought a dozen tubes of Alex Plus based on a “professional’s” opinion that was in the aisle with me at Home Depot. Oh well. That’s the great thing about UA-cam, you learn things to make your life easier, while simultaneously regretting some of your previous life choices!
That was about as good as it's going to get folks in regards to caulk. Holly smokes I just learned everything I will ever need to know about choosing the right caulk and why in 6 1/2 minutes. The visual examples are spot on too. Buddy you crushed this video.
this video helped me the most out of any caulking video. I could not figure out why my new caulking was just peeling off. thank you.
I wasn't aware of the variations associated with caulk specifications. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Dynaflex is an excellent, versatile product, but I don't use it in applications where it will be exposed to dust or grime. It tends to attract and hold on to contaminants unless painted over.
Great demo but I have two small issues one is there is paintable silicone it is made by GE and is available at Home Depot for about $14 and I use for a ton of exterior painting jobs it’s great for the north east just keep a container of denatured alcohol for clean up. The other is I would never caulk in a toilet if there is a leak it can only go one way and you won’t know it till it’s coming through the ceiling. But maybe that’s just me
GE Paintable Silicon, use it all the time. If you do use the wrong silicon caulk it can be painted but you need to use a oil based primer. For exterior I've had good results with SW Exterior Oil based wood primer.
A good plumber always leaves a space at the back where and leaks could come through and be noticed.
Thanks for a clear explanation of the different types and their uses. Great info.
Really helpful! Needed this 30 years ago. Thanks so much.
Big Stretch is far superior to Dap Dynoflex. It shrinks less, it covers larger gaps easier, and it tools in better... The reason you go with Dynoflex is it's 80% as good for 50% the price.
exactly 100% sashco products all day...never dap....only acrylic latex used should be the green tube for SW
@@117ashton Totally agree without a single doubt, and anyone saying otherwise is doing it for youtube and never worked with the stuff... If you know WTF you're doing and you have it in your budget; You're using Sashco products... NOT DAP! It costs a little more, but the difference is, a proper done Shasco products job never needs to be done again.
This is exactly what choice I've come to make (Dynaflex 230 95% of the time & 100% Silicone 5% of the time) during my 35 years painting outdoor murals and sculpture and almost 20 years working on home projects. It's nice to hear someone layout so clearly my reasoning which simply came from an intuitive decision and experience.
In a couple of words: FANTASTIC VIDEO!! You didn't spend a million words to preface your conclusions!! You got right to the answer, FAST!! Thank you so very much!!
This is JUST WHAT I NEEDED!! I've been trying to caulk our bathtub and it just cracks repaired no matter how long we let it dry. I will get some silicone this time. Thanks for a great video and all the tests you did!
Depends on where you're caulking. If you're caulking at the floor, use white silicone and tool it to make it look good. Use aerosol window cleaner (I use Sprayway Glass Cleaner from Walmart in the auto section, blue and white can) and spray your caulking, and then use your finger. It won't stick to your finger. If you're caulking up around the shower surround where you're going to paint it, I recommend Dynaflex or Big Stretch. They both perform very well in a bathroom setting and then paint over it to seal it.
@@Chris.Rhodes About 20% dish soap to water mix works the same way. I use this every day. With one of those cheap trowel tools it turns out perfect every time.
@@ThisTall Yeah you can use soapy wooder too. But I usually always have a can of window cleaner, so i just find it easier instead of making another bottle of just soapy wooder. But yeah they both work good.
@@Chris.Rhodes ya whatever you find handy. I like to wash my hands often when caulking a lot, so I have a little spray bottle with me already. I like the foaming window cleaner idea cause you can always see your coverage. Sometimes it’s not easy to see on white surfaces wether you’ve sprayed with just soapy water.
Excellent tip, this works great. Just make sure you’re getting good contact on the initial bead.
THANK YOU. super informative, cut straight to the chase with amazing examples. You are awesome.
Great info! Thanks for posting this video.
Good information thanks for the video. Some of my ceramic toilet paper holders were glued using silicone over 30 years ago. I would add that for showers and bathtubs areas the anti mold additive in silicone is important, not sure if that comes in the blended tubes,
Excellent advice
DAP Kwik Seal line is latex with silicon. Ultra has anti mold.
I've been an Alex Plus fan for years because it's so easy to apply, smooth out to a perfect seam, and clean up with a damp rag, but it does have its issues with staying that way and cleaning it over the years. The 100% silicone is a nightmare to get the perfect look because it's too sticky and hard to get off your hands. Looking forward to trying 230 as that seems like the best of both worlds.
Silicone is easy if.....
(1)get a spray bottle that is capable of misting.
(2)Fill bottle with water
(3)Add 4-5 drops of dawn dishwashing soap (or equivalant)
(4)Lay your caulk line.
(5)Spray the weak soapy solution as a MIST on your hands and....the caulk line (only a light mist is needed).
(6)Use your finger (which has the soapy mist on it) to smooth the perfect caulk line.
And it will save you a lot of time and make cleaning your hands easy.
Silicone is for a tub, urethane for all exterior work
Excellent detailed quick to the point information! Thank you!
that was SUPER useful! thanks for demonstrating the differences, pros and cons, etc
When it comes to silicone I use only the type 1 stinky type. Through some frustrating experience I found the newer type 2 which is non stinky has a very unpredictable shelf life resulting in a bead that does not cure but leaves a goopy mess that has to be removed and re done. I think I will give your suggestion a try, thank you and great video as always.
Thanks matey🍻
Unless your surface is sensitive to the acetic acid cure (stone, some metals) , it's also the strongest at bonding. Silicone II is either oxime cure or neutral cure, and I don't like them as much, they're more finicky, and the skinning is more pronounced (cannot cure to depth)
@@rolfbjorn9937 Silicone 2 takes much longer to cure. But I have never had a problem with reaching a full cure. Are you using a tooling agent( water,soapy water,window cleaner)?
@@genecarden780 I don't care about the silicone 2, I only use the proper silicone 1 for the application. Silicone 2 smells less, skins faster(which in turns slows down the cure to a halt), adheres less, is a bit more resilient in tension, and if slightly close or past it's due date (which in home centers is often a couple years past...) doesn't cure at all.
I can cure a gigantic (like a whole tube or more) blob of Silicone 1 over a couple of minutes (or hours if I want it more pure) with some tricks that turn it into a 2 part system.
@@rolfbjorn9937 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video! I always grabbed the Alex Plus. For now on I will grab the Dynaflex 230. Thanks for the video bud! 🇺🇦🇺🇸👊
This is really helpful. I started using Alex plus because my contractor did, and I had learned the hard way about silicone and paint. I’ll give the Dyna one a try. I am going to go back and paint over if I EVER finish my bathroom. I need to pull the toilet and replace the molding, and I have just put it off a ridiculous length of time. It isn’t a difficult job, I don’t know why I keep procrastinating, but there it is. 😸
Dude, your videos are top notch. I come back to them often.
You are right for the most part. There's also the cost factor involved, but we'll leave that aside. The 230 and latex silicone are primarily what I use. The cheapest, 25 year acrylic caulk is ok for baseboards and trim that are being painted, and I've seen it last for many years without problems. It also cures to be more durable after a couple months. However, I still advise most to use the latex silicone on all trim that's going to be painted, because as you said, it is more flexible and it's reasonably priced, well at least it was before covid. I'll use the 230 if something needs a stronger bond, but it's usually not necessary for caulking around trim, and it's twice the price, even though the advantages are negligible.
Now the BIG caveat here is, never use pure silicone around or inside bathtubs or showers, despite what the so called "professionals" tell you!!! I've been in the industry off and on for 45 years, and whenever I've encountered pure silicone in showers, it's almost always either moldy behind it, or peeling off, and it peels off with two fingers, especially when the mold has gotten behind it, which it almost always seems to do after a couple years. It's also extremely messy, difficult to clean up, and it can leave a thin film along it's edges that'll look ok at first, but after a few cleanings, it'll begin to peel on those edges. No, the best I've used around tubs is either the 40 year latex silicone, or the Dynaflex 230. I've caulked around several hundred showers/tubs over the years, and a few I've had to revisit several years later, and these two products resist mold, bond incredibly well, and look great the majority of the time! The silicone, well let's just say, I've had to remove and re-caulk dozens of showers that someone, (professional?) used it on, and it's pretty much always a mess...
Everybody has their own opinion, but take it from a "professional", using 40 year latex silicone, or Dynaflex 230, is your best bet for your tub, even 5 years later, it'll still look great as long as the tub is periodically cleaned. The amazing part is, it seems to get stronger as time goes by...
I know, because I've personally painted over a thousand homes, and it lasts longer than anything else I've used, and Dynaflex 230 hasn't been around all that long...
Bottom line, avoid pure silicone like the plague on any exposed surfaces!!! Interior or exterior, or you'll regret it later, take my word for it...
Excellent post, thanks for sharing your experience!
That's nonsense, because you're only telling a partial story by telling us "pure silicone" Only 100% silicone, further enhanced with mold inhibitors, from reputable providers will stay clean. Use the GE Silicone I Kitchen and Bathroom or exterior rated silicone, not the all purpose (no mold inhibitors). Either way, silicone itself doesn't mold.
@@rolfbjorn9937 and you would be right, it doesnt, but, what does happen over and over again, is the silicone itself detaches from the tile and allows mold to grow behind it. I have seen it time and again. Another problem is, if the installation requires the user to use something like their finger to level and or spread the silicone, it creates a "lip" for lack of a better word, that cannot be painted. Just recently ran into that one. The "professionals", caulked around a step in tub enclosure, and the wall could not be evenly cut in with paint, leaving a jagged edge varying from a to 1/4" up to 1/2" away from the panels.
Dap Kwik Seal with Mold Guard should also be mentioned as an excellent bathroom caulk...
I have to attest to that. I am a professional housekeeper and I had seen many showers and tubs with moldy silicone, and the type of caulk used that seems affected is always the clear silicone one. Like you mentioned, seems like it partially lifts off and let water get under it that then fosters the growth of mildew. Sometimes it peels off completely after a while that I even had to actually remove it with my fingers like strips, on occasion, as it is completely detached.
Best advice of a lifetime for me was to stay far away from DAP caulking products. GE has never failed me.
Just curious, what's wrong with DAP and so much better about GE?
@@scenicnomad8744 DAP makes good products, you just need to choose the right product for the job.
I’m a contractor and have used many different brands and manufacturers, DAP does as well as anyone.
OK, now we're talking.
Great video, and "why" was explained clearly enough to stick.
Kudos
DUDE, YOU ARE AWESOME. YOU GAVE THE ANSWER ON THE 48 s of the video. You are the heroe the internet needs.
Two additional products to consider: Shermax and AllPro ProStretch. Both are a urethanized elastomeric sealant with lifetime warranties. ProStretch and Dynaflex 230 have the same Dynamic Joint Movement (ASTM C719) rating of +/- 25% (stretchability). Shermax has a DJM rating of +/- 35%.
This is very interesting info, thanks for sharing. I will definitely check out those products.
Do you work for a sealant manufacturer?
@@danieltikusis5239 I do not. Why do you ask?
@@indomitableson You referenced technical data that contractors do not usually talk about. I am a chemist that worked at Sashco and Big Stretch was one of the product that I oversaw.
@@danieltikusis5239 that's cool. I'm a painting contractor. We've used Big Stretch a time or two. More early in the pandemic because they weren't even making the stuff we normally use. ASTM C719 rating of +/-25%. Pretty good stuff. 👍
I figured that introducing him to the technical data that was most relevant to this video would enlighten some people on things to look for. If a product doesn't have at least a rating of +/-25% then don't use it. It's like my dad taught me: do it right the first time and you won't have to fix it later.
Obviously, no caulking can overcome movement in the building. This stretchability in caulking products is designed to hide most of the normal expansion and contraction from heat and humidity. But that's all they can do.
Wonderful video. Thank you for the detail explanation!
Let’s talk about caulking a toilet to the floor.
When the wax ring fails and leaks water under your toilet, the caulk holds the gross water under the toilet and destroys your flooring without warning you that there is a leak.
Let’s not discuss caulking toilets to the floor again… don’t do it
Stat tuned next week-ish. I’ll show you the best way to do it. Don’t caulk the back. Caulking the front and sides will keep almost all the overflowing bacteria water from seeping under the toilet, and leaving the back open is a fail safe if the seal fails on the wax ring.
Don't use wax rings.
@@D2O2 what do you use?
@@Dbb27 Anything but wax. I have had success with wax-less seals from Fluidmaster, Korky and Sani Seal. For toilets that haven't had a wax ring previously, add Fernco to the list.
It's code. Toilet must be caulked to get a C of O.
Another informative video, this advice you offer up is very much appreciated.
Like your delivery and learned something. Thanks
Outstanding
That explanation just totally tuned me up. Thanks
Just doing my Basement .. I always used Alex Flex. Thanks to you.. I am switching. Many Thanks
Great video! Answers my questions.
What an excellent and thorough review. I know this video took quite some time to make and it was excellent and extremely helpful. Thank you.
Well done video. The side by side’s helped me understand each. Thanks
Thanks for the info. I've used them all. I really like Big Stretch
Thanks for taking the time to make this...
Great video! I switched a couple years ago to the Dynaflex 230 elastomeric sealant for virtually all of my joint sealant work and found it to be the best overall product.
Super appreciate your videos! Super helpful!
Thank you Sir. Straight to the point, easy to understand and informative!
Awesome Video Funny Carpenter! The best explanation and most helpful! Thank you!
Best video with great explanation. Thanks so much.
Great, concise explanation...excellent video overall. Thank you!
Excellent presentation!! Good job! Thank you.
Thanks! Your videos are super useful for anyone who needs to get some finish carpentry done.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the support🍻
Thanks for this video. It confirms that at least once in my home improvement journey that I made the right choice using the Duraflex when I repaired my window sills. Great content, so thanks for your channel.