Installing a New Battery In My 2011 E92 M3 DIY (E90, E92, E93)
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Full DIY replacement of the battery in my E92 M3.
In this video I go over the process (in full) of replacing the battery, working with the small space and some recommendations along the way. I also provide an update on the sale (or not) of the M3. I also explain the reason it was for sale.
If you enjoy this DIY content, hit that like button and drop a comment so I know to make more!
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I just did mine today. Thanks for the thorough install helped out a lot. I tell you what taking out and putting in a 60lb battery in that tight of a space while keeping the wires out of the way was a pain in the ass.
Glad it helped! And yes, this is by far the largest battery I've seen in an automobile (car). Guess someone can skip the gym for a few days after working on it. 😀
@@CoderMan I was a bit winded afterwards tbh. 🤣
Yeah I had to one leg squat in my trunk to get that battery in and out. It’s freaking heavy for such a weird angle
Hey great video, but my brake hose wasn’t connected to anything either, could you possibly make a video or let me know where that is supposed to go
Brake hose in the engine bay or?
I read that the metal bracket is for roll-over protection.
That makes a lot of sense.
Inside the cut scene is the true method to take the battery out
Thanks!
So do you have to update computer after battery swap.? And what happens if you don't?
I would, look into Carly.
I got to register the battery o not and then I have the hazard light blinking I don't know why
Sorry, are you saying you did or didn't register the battery for the hazard lights to be blinking?
What the heck, why isnt your harness clipped on, and why don't you have a battery tightening bolt applied? it makes the video useless if someone has an OEM car.
I had removed the harness prior to filming. Not sure what you mean by battery bolt? Do you mean the bracket I struggle to remove, on camera?
@@CoderMan yeah, sorry if I sounded annoyed, it was -24 and it of course "wasn't as easy as the video showed"
All OEM cars will have this part number :61217631587 along with a long foam "Spacer" that gets rid of the slack in the batter cavity. They together prevent the battery from jumping around during driving
No worries. I appreciate the feedback. Hope it will help someone else stuck. Thanks for clarifying! Also, that's too damn cold 😭
@@CoderMan Yeah dude. Fingers dont last long. Have to take lots of breaks
No battery registration?
I would, if you prefer. Requirement is split between need and should.
You forgot to code the car with the new battery, as your battery ages BMW coding changes the charge cycle and the amount of current that is applied. By not coding the car your battery will not last.
Like I mentioned before, I wasn't required to code this battery swap. In the future I would as its cheap insurance.
great job and thank you for sharing
Happy to help!
Thx
Pomogło 🙂
Happy to help!
You have to code the new battery.
Seems optional.
I just replaced mine now it won’t start any idea on why?
Hard to say 100% but have you checked the connections? If you test the battery does it read the proper voltage?
Yes the connections are ok the battery is brand new. It just won’t turn on. I’m hoping it’s nothing major I would hate to spend money on something that maybe has nothing to do with it.
How do u open the trunk from the inside. Is there a trunk release button near the hood release?
Correct. When you enter the drop down seats close to the front (closest to bumper of car) you’ll see a yellow handle you can pull down. Be careful not to pull too hard, this safety device is meant to be used by a child, in case they get locked in a trunk.
CoderMan no I mean is there a button that u can press from the drivers seat to open the trunk without key fob
Iknoor Bal Oh, if the battery is working I believe the glove box has a button.
Or is the yellow handle next to the hood release?
CoderMan o got it I was tryna find it thank you so much. BMWs lol God bless
Amazing video! I just changed battery on my BMW 328i. Dealer was asking $450, I got it done for $200. Thank you brother. Keep up the good work :)
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Thx this helps
Did you have to code it ?
I also have a 2011 bmw 328i series 3 and I’m having trouble every day with my battery. I have to jump start it with my portable jumper this been going on since late march and I purchased a new battery at Walmart n still I have problems with my battery I noticed that my drain plug is broken is there any advise you can give I will truly appreciate it oh also the monitor in my days battery decrease drain
My first thought would be parasitic draw (any aftermarket stuff installed)?
Don’t trust him! You need to code the battery even if it’s an exact replacement! The car monitors the battery’s health and as it deteriorates it gives the battery more current from the alternator to make up for its age. The coding lets the car know it’s a new battery and to not have the alternator charge it as aggressively. Like I said, this is about a batteries age, not about swapping a battery with one with different performance specs. The extra power to the battery could cause it to fail prematurely, and who knows if it can do anything dangerous or maybe later fry a module. There are affordable scan tools that do this and this is becoming more common on batteries, not just BMW’s. Be smart and do it right. Don’t listen to this guy just because he could take some bolts off a battery and put them back on. He says he’s afraid of what a battery tender while swapping the battery will do to his car yet he is willing to do this. Makes no sense. I also wouldn’t use a tender because I agree it’s not worth the risk, but then why not code the battery properly!?
And if it’s not obvious, if you change a new battery to a new battery of a different type, this also requires coding. And depending how drastic a change, your scan tool might not be good enough and you may need the INPA BMW software to do it. Not something I recommend for a novice.
I appreciate your feedback, I did extensive research and have an electronics background. I also added a note in the post about deciding if you want to or not.
I wasn’t afraid of the battery tender, it’s not smart to power something you’re replacing, especially with delicate electronics. It’s true in 99% of cases it won’t doing anything, but why risk it?
@@CoderMan
Who cares about your electronics background. You were claiming since the battery has the same technical spec's as the old battery it's not an issue. You can be a whiz with electronics (not hating on you or doubting what you can do) and still be wrong here. When it comes to modern car's electrical systems, I wouldn't play around. They are so finicky. You'll even see people accidentally frying their footwell module on E90 etc. BMW's just from disconnecting their battery. It shouldn't happen, and they even had to extend the module's warranty, but my point is just these systems are super delicate, sometimes more so than you would want as an owner.
I am agreeing with you on the battery tender. My comment is related to an inconsistency in your approach. A tender is too risky to use because it can mess up your electronics in your car (I agree), but not coding the battery as intended and causing it to get greater charging current than designed is ok (I disagree).
100% on time reply
@@CoderMan my bmw 30+ years mechanic told me that when changing à battery on these it's better to have another one plugged up in front as you can fry your main board module$$$ and seems right as the last time my battery drained completely it bugged all the electronics and I was lucky in my case it just needed some reprogramming still cost me like 300$ for just that...
Hey ! Do you know a lot about bmws ?? I got a 325xi 2002 all wheel drive it’s making a scraping noise , people are saying transfer case I have no clue
I don't know a ton about them, but would defer to the forums and/or locals.
Hey thanks for the video, I am about to do the same to my 2011 335D. I was concerned about the registering of the battery and setting the amp hours. There is another video on here that the guy uses a snap on diagnostic tool to set the amp hours and register the battery. Since you replaced the original battery, I am also replacing the original battery. Did you get a battery that was exactly the same specs? If so which one did you get so I can follow suit? It would make sense that if the specs of the battery do not change that there would be no need to register the battery, etc. Also what issues were you having with your car that lead you to change the battery?
I got a duralast battery, exact spec as the stock one. I was getting charge errors when I would start the car. Thought it was electrical components and decided to swap the battery (it was original from 2011). Once I swapped all the issues went away.
when u change ur battery from AGM BMW oem to an aftermarket one
u ll destroy all the electrical components
very idiot thing to economize in a battery that last 7 years
Not even remotely true but ok.
I don't understand why you didn't move your camera to show how 3:16 process is done
Yet you decided to show your face and also move camera angle to show where to screw off the battery lol. Other Mexican guy was more helpful
Not enough light in the trunk. Its to pop the side clip off. Use a small screwdriver or flathead.
Morning sir am chatting from Namibia my BMW e90 petrol some times don't want to move even I put gear I press the acereraite but still hider
Appreciate you reaching out, wish I could help more. See first comment for some info.
Registration with the car's OBD is required on all new batteries, coding is only required if the new battery is of different specs than the OEM you just removed.
That's how I know it as well.
Nice video thank you, it will save me a lot of time when replacing the battery on my son's 3 series later this week. I am pretty sure the 'bracket' is actually a brace to stop the battery from moving or flying though the air in the event of an impact/crash? It also obviously doubles as some kind of support for the boot (trunk!) trim etc
You’re 100% correct. That battery is heavy and any shifting could do damage to it and the car. Not to mention the electrical components on top of the battery. Glad to video helped!
As much as I enjoy driving this car, this is what drives me to hatred with it. Everything is soo complex for no reason when it could be soo much more simple. I was following everything on this video up until the last part where I can’t find the bottom pin that’s keeping it in place
If memory serves, the location of that pin is below the battery in the tray. I agree its little things that make me dislike really fun cars.
That distribution system took my battery change from a 10 minute job to a 45 minute job. I couldn’t take it off. I hate BMWs. My first and only bmw then I’m going Japanese
German cars are needlessly complex. It's crazy.
@@CoderMan I did finish up the job, but after connecting the battery in, I got some error codes like “Chassis stabilization malfunction”, the 4x4 error light is on.
Is that from not registering my battery or maybe I didn’t put the terminals back on properly?? Hopefully it’s one of those … and nothing else lol
I need help on that is make me stress some time s it can cause the incident from in caming vehicle please answer me I need help
Apologies, I cannot help with this. I would recommend you contact a local mechanic, lots of possible options for the vehicle not going into gear. Could be the gear selector, transmission, gear oil, etc...
Some times the car don't want to move even is on D level BMW e90 petrol 320
See prior comment..
Relaplace baterry and nothing to do... Only use the maxysys scanner.. And ready en ten minutes.. The mexican enggenrs like me are so inteligent.. And break the rules.. And never the car in the bmw agency.. I have a e 90 bmw..
Lol I just changed mine at autozone like literally
Good timing ha
Hey Coderman, did you code your battery ? Yours looks like it has IBS.
I did not. I would now.
@@CoderMan you should add a descrition to your video.
I have a 2008 bmw 328xi and it needs a battery can I get away with just changing it out with a different one and not reprogramming?
I am not sure on that model. Since swapping this I’ve been getting conflicting reports. I would check the forums for that model to be sure.
CoderMan well I did it and so far it just threw a 4x4 code which was cleared my turning the steering wheel, no problems so far
As some have commented below, you will need to register the battery, if the same specifications, or code the battery if they are materially different. From homework, the 90, 92, or 95amp, as long as same CCA and staying with AGM battery, is same specification. I used Bimmerlink via OBD Vlink dongle to register the battery, was the simplest and most affordable combination -- although it was sensitive to being in ignition position 2 (so engine not running, but dash and interior fans on).
Finally regarding the bracket over the battery, I think is safety device mainly, obviously holds the battery in place, but suspect is if the vehicle is in a rollover, that it has better chance of holding it relatively in place.
Good note on the battery bracket, I also appreciate the insight provided for others.
Great job on the video! I was able to change out the battery on my 2013 E92. Thanks dude. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! What spec M3 do you have?
@@CoderMan Actually it's just a 328i XDrive coupe (with M Sport package).
Hey any issues without registering?
@@rengokusats No I didnt have any issues. Good luck to you.
That red thing doesn't come out dude im getting angry lol
It can definitely get stuck. Hope you got it removed without too many swears.
You should register your battery, so your car knows that the battery is new, and the alternator can charge it properly. If the new battery has different specifics than the original one you have to codify it, using bimmercode, for example, or carly. If you don't do this, your car will run fine, but the new battery will have a poor lifetime.
Correct, expect in this case the exact rated battery was swapped in.
@@CoderMan still needs registration
@@CoderMan your battery is probably long dead after this video right? Cuz no registration
Can some one confirm if it still needs coding in if it’s got the exact same rating ?
@@Damian-ln3it still needs registration yep, it adjusts stuff depending on the age of the battery.
Why does BMW always complicate any easy fix?
No idea but they seem to still be doing it!
Helpful video. Just completed the same task. The red o-ring on the bolt of the back battery bracket fell off, you can see it in 5:53. Confirmed where it was supposed to go when was trying to figure where it came from! Thanks.
Glad it helped!
From BMW's ISTA+
Why register the battery replacement?
After installing a new battery, the service function 'Register battery replacement' must be run. The registration of the battery replacement is required to inform the power management (software in engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery was installed in the vehicle. If the battery replacement is not registered, the power management will not function properly and can lead to functions being limited by individual electrical consumers being switched off or having their power consumption reduced, for example.
Register battery replacement
A service function informs the power management in the DME/DDE of a battery exchange. The following operations are performed:
- The current kilometre reading is stored for the battery replacement.
- The stored measured values (battery charge statuses, current, voltage, temperature, etc.) are deleted.
- The power management is initialised.
Replacing the battery: other battery capacity or AGM battery
As the battery depends on the engine ands options fitted, the following information is coded in the CAS:
- Battery capacity (for example 90 Ah)
- Battery type: AGM battery or normal lead-acid battery.
For a battery replacement, the standard installed battery capacity may be used as standard. When installing a battery with a higher or lower capacity or when installing an AGM battery instead of a normal lead-acid battery, the CAS must therefore be reencoded using ISTA/P:
- With ISTA/P, run the retrofit ”Battery” (select battery capacity of the fitted battery).
- Register additional battery replacements with the corresponding service function.
Battery: battery capacity and battery type
The battery capacity can be read from the label with the technical data. The safety information is found on the other label. The cycle-proof AGM batteries are used for especially heavy loads on the vehicle electrical system depending on equipment and requirements.
Notice! Determination of state of charge after a battery replacement
After a battery replacement, the vehicle must be left standing for at least 3 hours with its new battery. It is not possible to establish with any reliability the state of charge of the new battery until that time. Possible Check Control messages about total discharge of the battery are then no longer displayed.
Thanks for sharing this info!
min 4:00 what is the part number of that side (black panel ) please
I wish I knew. My best guess would be battery tray panel, but I'm not positive.
thank you for your reply, my panel is off and from somewhere the water is coming in through there @@CoderMan
I wound up having to replace my battery, my car sits on a tender more days than not lately.
I bought one from Autozone, Duralast Platinum AGM Battery H8-AGM Group Size 49 900 CCA.
I do have a handheld Foxwell 510 scanner that I used to register it, and set the steering wheel sensor.
Thank you for the tutorial, I appreciate you taking the time to do it.
Thanks! Glad you got it working.
What’s the steps of registering the battery? Is setting the steering wheel sensor a part of changing battery process?
I know that I am a little late to this discussion, but I need to replace my battery. It suddenly died this morning. I jumped it and it drove me 100 miles. Then I went to Advanced auto parts to see if it was the battery or anything else, they told me it was the battery. I had to jump start the car again. I just spoke to my local BMW dealer and they told me that if you change the battery with the exact same one, you don’t have to code it. He told me that for my specific battery, 12V 90AH 720A I didn’t have to do anything. It’s for a 2011 328i Xdrive. Surprisingly enough the battery is just $154 at my local BMW dealer.
Thank you and I hope this helps. I’ll be getting my battery and installing it later.
Hope it works out. Let us know how it goes.
CoderMan It works great. No problems at all.
Hey coderman, looks like u saved some bucks and went w the Duralast to replace the BMW battery. So don’t you need to Register the new battery? Or is that not necessary??
It is necessary. The alternator can overcharge the battery without it
The consensus is maybe? I haven’t had any issues yet, but the amp/rating is the key to match. BMW of course does not actually make the batteries.
@@CoderMan When I went to the bmw dealership they told me that I needed a bmw specific battery for them to register it. But idk i haven't had any issues as well and i used the same battery as you
Anthony DeLuca You are not required to use the BMW battery. The dealer just wants to sell you a $300 battery... :(
On my way down to remove my battery right now...Wish me luck, fellas! hahaha - I'll be back with questions soon I presume
Awesome. I’ll help however I can.
@@CoderMan: After getting my ass kicked by the damn inside tab on the distribution console, I am searching for an extension arm for my wrench to get that plate off the bottom! I bought the new battery today and it is ready to be thrown in, so that is keeping me motivated. Should be out soon, but oh BOY that inside tab was a son of a gun
Russell Sharif Yes! I ended up using the longest extension I could find. Good luck!
Update: New battery in and coded using Carly app software! So far no issues. For anyone like myself (amateur) preparing to try this, do have a long wrench extension for the plate and a small flathead for the tab!
Awesome! Glad you got it all working. Good tip on the extended wrench.
FYI, the yellow/black twisted pair cable near the positive terminal is used by the ECU to trigger a tiny explosive to break off the starter to battery connectivity in case of collision when airbags are deployed.
When that happens, the radio, lighting, etc will still work because the distribution block to battery connectivity is still intact. However you just can't start the engine. Don't ask me how I know these...
Well that’s something I never knew or even heard of. Makes sense from a safety standpoint. Sucks you had to learn about it firsthand. Thank you for sharing with the community though.
Hi, I've got aquestion about changing my E90 battery. The current battery in the car is a 12v 90ah 900a 900ccc. A local parts store recommends one of it's own brand battery (AGM 019 stop/start 95ah 850ccc). Will putting in that battery with slightly different specs damage anything in the car?
That’s a tough one, everything I read says to use the exact spec. I would be sure the shop is correct. This car is fickle with batteries, from my experience.
You can use different battery you just need to “code it” tell the car you have a standard non agm battery or vice versa. You would also need to tell the car the different parameters..92ah to 90ah or whatever battery yours is. You would also need to register the battery and tell the car it got a new battery to charge it like a new battery
Are you sure you don't need to reset the battery in the car's software?
I've seen many other folks say that, even if the battery is an exactly replacement, it's important to reset it to ensure the charging algorithm doesn't overcharge it and wear out the battery faster.
www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1338302
Q: Why do I need to register a new battery?
A: The short answer is that BMW designed the charging system with an algorithm that varies the rate of charge by the age and type of the battery installed. Registering a new battery resets the algorithm back to optimal charging voltage for the specified battery.
The long answer: "The negative battery cable has an electronic control unit on the battery end of it called an intelligent battery sensor (IBS). The IBS measures the state of battery charge and sends this information to the ECU. The ECU uses this information to control how much charging voltage is needed from the alternator to support vehicle electricity needs. A battery deteriorates normally over time and depending upon service demands and driving profile. The IBS reads this and the ECU tells the charging system to increase voltage and amperage output incrementally as the battery matures. Therefore, at battery replacement time, if you don't tell the ECU it has a new battery it will overcharge the new battery causing it to wear out faster.
The registration process takes place in the ECU, which is the main player in this system. Also, when the IBS sees that battery voltage is too low for normal vehicle operation it can start shutting down vehicle functions to conserve power while keeping the vehicle operational. This would be accompanied by a check control warning of excessive battery discharge.”
Amazing explanation. I wasn't aware of this. I had zero issues but this does make you wonder if the car is smart enough to alter the charging. Thank you for sharing!
I had the same concern about the changing of a new battery which I'm about to do tomorrow. I have a new battery coming as we speak cause I send a friend of mines to pick up the new battery for me and tomorrow is going to be ready to do. And with brand new radiator, water pump, thermostat and few little other items that were replaced. And I was going to ask if I needed to reset or do some programming after installing the new battery? The other things are just ready and do not need any programming. except for bleeding the radiator. All that work is costing me over two grandiose U.S. bucks. How. nice, hjaaanngh???
Thank you for making this video! It just saved my 18 year old from me yelling uncontrollably at him! LOL
You're welcome! Glad it helped.
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
how did you know the battery needed replacing? i have a 2010 328i 6Mt and every bit of an electronic component inside the cabin is going haywire. i bought a duralast platinum hoping that will do the trick, last time a battery was registered was at 55k miles and i’m at 180 now! lol not sure if that’s correct, voltage was also at 11.35v when resting without the car on should be at 12.5 to 12.6 figuring it’s a dead/weak cell in the battery. i’ll come back with an update soon, made the install looks easy brother
My first indicator was a charging error. Then I had one instance where the M3 wouldn't start. I would say electrical hiccups are a good indicator. Glad the video was helpful!
I have heard that you need to reset or code the ECU after battery change in BMW cars, and in this car you didn't do that, does this car require that or we can just swap in a new battery without any resetting?
If it's an exact battery you don't have to code it in most cases. I would do it given the additional info I learned but it's not technically required.
@@CoderMan thanks!
Woke up this morning to a dead battery idk how I’m rushing to try and make it to work , luckily a neighbor was gonna jump start me I figured cool the battery is in the back I open the back and I’m like 🥴 it’s a bmw of course it’s not easy to get to it 5 mins trying to take it off I’m like nvm and said thanks to my kind neighbor for waiting for me lol 🤣🤣🤣 so here I am learning how to take everything off
Yah BMW really doesn't make it easy. I will mention there is a jump point under the hood I later found out about... after I sold the car!
This is all new to me. UK owner here.
My 2009 batt lasted long its on its last leg.
Start stop is turned off idrive wont let it work and music playlist is all blank names files.
In the winter the car turns off the heated seats and rear heated window and wing mirrors lol since the battery is starting to die slowly.
Problem i had was trying to find the right spec battery.
Mine is 90ah 900cc agm
New one is 105ah 950cc agm
Going to fit it on but not sure on what i need to do regarding coding. Since this battery is higher.
Sounds like a bad battery, hopefully a replacement works for you.
I have a F82 2015 BMW M4 that uses a lithium ion battery. Every time I start the car I get “increased battery discharge” I contacted my local BMW dealer and some tuner shops and they all tried to charge me $1900+ for the new lithium ion battery. That is just crazy stupid... I am wondering if I can put in a normal battery that matches all the specs to my oem battery in the car. Please help me out
Wow, that is an insane cost. I am not sure if you can swap batteries but I would hit up the M3Post forums as someone else might have done it.
Love your video keep more post going I’ve got a m3 and my warning lights are on
Thanks! What warning lights are on?
What’s about your battery reset
Do you mean resetting the car?
Did you code the battery ?
No, but I would if you're unsure.
I replaced the battery then like a few hours later the battery symbol popped up ??? does that mean that the alternator is not charging it? any help
Did you use a different battery? You may need to code it, otherwise the car may not use it properly. Do you have a code reader? You may have a loose wire as well.
Very helpful steps to follow; however, you have to deal with a very heavy battery. Lifting the battery in and out was the hardest. Do not try if you can not lift heavy item in a very tight space.
Thanks.
Great point! That battery is very heavy!
How has that battery treated you since making this video? I just bought the same one
No issues while I owned the car. New owner hasn't had any issues that I'm aware of either.
So you don't need a scan tool to do this. I was told you must reset the pc with scan tool by a ton of guys lol
I never did since it's the same rating, I kept getting conflicting info. If I did it again I would scan it just to appease the doubters and peace of mind.
@@CoderMan Right on thanks for the feedback thats my project for today
I got this exact same battery how many ah is it 80 or 90
I'm not sure off-hand, I always recommend checking the battery you're replacing.
@@CoderMan im currently running a temporary battery so ill be coding it with veepeak im sure this one stronger i just really need to know the ah whats your ah on? 80 or 90 i checked evrey site and it doesn’t say the 80ah
@@CoderMan yea i just picked it up from autozone its a 80 ah Just for anyone else shopping online
Make sure your battery is not lithium battery, you just can’t put any battery in there. I have a 2016 M3 my battery is $2400 cause it’s a lithium ion battery.
Interested I didn't know the F8x platform used a lithium battery. In my case the 2011 M3 used a standard battery and could be substituted.
Nice battery installation! Could you give the battery spec (manufacturer, model # )?
Thanks.
Sure! Here is the battery I used, but check your specs to make sure its identical.
Duralast Platinum Battery H7-AGM Group Size 94R 850 CCA
@@CoderMan how long is it last??? 3 yrs ??
Hi I got the passenger restraint malfunction light came on any clue how to fix this?
That's hard to say. I would have the belts checked and the cabling to ensure it's all working properly.
Thank you! That sucked lol im using mhd to code the new battery as the new one has different specs
Good idea on coding it, when a different spec battery is.
Hi I will be replacing my battery tomorrow. Unsure if it's the same specs as the one I have but could possibly be also as the one I have is all in chinese. if it's not will I need to have the new battery programmed with my car? I think that makes sense lol
It will depend on the battery model and specs. It certainly doesn't hurt to program the battery for peace of mind, in this case.
So h6 or agm?
Checked in Costco, they have both, agm is almost doubled,
I can't say, you'd need to match what your car currently has (or the owners manual)
So I replaced my battery and now for some reason both blinkers won't automatically turn off after completing a turn. Any idea on this?
That is very strange, did you check your fuses?
@@CoderMan going to have to dig into that. It is weird man and annoying. Thanks for the tip
I thought you were going to explain how to register the new battery using INPA / ISTA . I currently have the low battery warning when I shut the car off.
if you want to register the battery check out the Carly app. I didn’t have to register mine.
This is confusing, because ur supposed to re program ur battery so it doesn't die and basically end up running ur alternator. So I guess what I'm asking is how
Coding seems to be required in some cases. I didn't have to and the car ran fine. In order to code you need a handheld or shop to do it.
Yeah I'm looking into getting one. I haven't had to replace my battery yet.. or starter or alternator.. lol
Thank you for the video. On my e90 2009 the cable from the main positive terminal it is not connected anywhere, not sure if thats what causes the car not to start or even crank.
I would venture a guess of yes that would certainly cause a problem.
Don’t forget to register the battery or you’ll end up blowing something up lol.like buying a new battery would be the least of your concerns.
Seems to work for some and not for others. If I did it again I would register.
Thank you for the steps but did not see how you put the plate back in place and can we get information on the battery what size is it a H8 or H9?
I swapped for an exact type/size/rating. Though i don't remember offhand which one I used and have since traded the car in for the GT4.
Great video man! Just changed 11 year old factory original battery in e92 335is . Video was perfect .👍
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Great video Thank you ! but I have one question, you did not put the gray vent hose back...it looked it was already not attached to anything in your car, was that normal?
I'm not sure since it's been so long but I believe everything was connected properly.
@@CoderMan Your video helped me a lot in changing my car battery, after a lot of research I found that the gray hose should be attached to a tiny hole or to another elbow bend joint similar to the one pugged into the battery vent, it varies depending on car models, it's very important for that to be connected to your car because it leads toxic chemicals outside your car since the battery is located inside the car
Horrible design.
Agreed!
Wtf lol my battery is in the boot O.o
They don't keep it consistent 😂
Bmw of Hartford CT asked 300 to install and register the battery.
Ouch!
If I put a new battery on my e90 do I have to register it I noticed you didn’t. Everyone I have talked to has told me they need to install new battery so around 150 for new battery plus the registration of the battery can I just swap it out and be done with it or is it really critical to register it don’t wanna end up with more problems down the line like electrical problems or something any feedback helps thanks
I didn't register it, but if you see in the comments its divided whether its needed. I found if its the exact same tech specs on the battery you'll be fine, but I wouldn't skip it just to save a couple bucks.. in my opinion.
Hey man thanks for the reply your a great help Subscribed. your channel is very informative have a blessed day and thanks again 👍🏼
@@Duppyconqueror47 Thank you so much!!
Don't you have to recalibrate the battery to the car with a new install??
I would these days.
thank
Happy to help!
The negative terminal point is that light grey or metal stick to the left of the coolant reservoir sticking out the frame.
Interesting, I hadn't known about that.
Thank you for this, it is really helpful. Do I need to only use an original BMW battery? what are the alternatives. Thanks again
You can use an aftermarket, like I did. Provided all of the specifications are the same. Which one to use will depend on your car and current battery to match.
Great video but never saw mentioning about registering the battery to the car
Wasn't required for a direct swap. However I would do it just to be 200% safe.
Any updates since you did not register the battery? I need to replace my battery as well. Dealership wanted $580 to replace it, would rather do it myself and save a few hundred.
Absolutely zero issues since I installed. I did not need to code a thing, on my 2011 (build date 2010) M3. As you can see from the video it’s simple enough.
thank you for making this video. excellent instructions.
Happy to help! Thanks for letting me know.
I have a question what’s the black and yellow wire connecting to the battery for? Mine is hanging there.
I actually don't know. I'm guessing an accessory wire.
@@CoderMan thanks. I’m gonna google for answers
@@bounyava I got me curious too. Found this info, seems likely. It's likely the BST (battery safety terminal), where in the case an accident is occurred, there is a little charge inside the terminal that explodes to push out the battery terminal, disconnecting it.
This is not for an e93
Is the battery in a different place? I never knew that, if it's the case.
@@CoderMan same place, the convertible top just makes it a different and more tricky install... not as fun lol.
Did u do the battery register? If so, how? Or do I have to take it to a shop?
Depends on the battery, look into the Carly app if you want to do it yourself.
I’m trying this now gonna use the same battery you did @coderman pray for me lol 🙏🏿
Was a success thanks a lot man going for a drive hope I don’t get codes !
Awesome! Glad it helped.
FYI actually there is a dedicated ground point. If you pause at 1:27 you will see the metal nub poking out.
Wow, I had no idea until you mentioned! Good to know for my next M3. Thanks for letting me know.
@@CoderMan Yeah it's definitely hidden! Had to read the manual to find out.
Thanks for the video? Did you not do any coding after installing it?
No, wasn't required.
Another video showed that you have to reset the battery in the ECU so that it doesn't attempt to over charge the battery. Do you know if the battery dying clears ECU mod I have?
The battery dying should not alter the ECU, unless it broke.
@@CoderMan thabks for responding. Do I need to reset a battery setting in the ecu or whatever by odb program? I bought a non bmw battery but unsure it will properly be regulated without coding tool.
If you used a different battery I recommend you use the Carly app to program it.
How the fuck do you even reach your hand back there dude
Definitely not easy, try to use an extension on your socket wrench.
Maybe the bracket is for when the car roll over holds the battery in, german safety
That’s likely, hadn’t thought about a crash element. Lowers the risk of fire.
Exactly. Has to be locked in for the track too.
Do you need to register a new battery for a 2011 bmw 328i
Some have needed to. Exact replacement is not required to be coded but for the cost I would for absolute peace of mind.
@@CoderMan thanks
Excellent video. Keep up the good work.🚗
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Did you have to code the battery ?
I did not have to code the battery.
"With my luck this will cost 3000" lol
Story of working on cars. Saved $50, oops... time to hire a pro 🤣