I don't have a lazer, so not really applicable to me now, but may get one in the future. I appreciate the detail that you go into and the tips you bring, just like the rest of your videos. - Chris
Yours are Digital calipers, the plastic one is a vernier calipers. A dial caliper has a needle that pivots from the center of the!!!! (Drum roll) Dial. Very good video and narrated well and our voice suits this type of content. Thanks for the tips too! I am on the hunt for a rotary that has chuck jaws as an option. 😁🛫
Not yet, I actually haven’t really used it. As you can see from my channel, I’m more of a woodworker than a laser enthusiast. Atomstack gave me a bunch of stuff if I’d test it and make a video, this was one of those things. I use the laser all the time, but I haven’t really had need to use the rotary.
Just ordered my R1 chuck. so cant wait to play. But i would prefer a switch so i dont have to keep plugging in different device but hard to find here in Europe.
Yes this is the design of the chuck to be able to do this. But there are some limitations in my case- Once I flip the motor over and try to put the base sticking backwards and a tumbler sticking out I can't fit this in the enclosure I made... I see two flaws that will need addressing in my case. The above mentioned is supposed to be the solution. I don't like that the chuck is about a 1/2 inch to short from the base up. A average mug with a handle will just hit the base. I am planning a 1/2" spacer for both the uprights under the motor, and the suction cup support. Then I will not need to flip the motor over just to clear basic handled mugs. I just managed to solve the part of the equation that Catspaw mentioned at the end. There are 2 points of "detents" that stop it from going past 0-180 degrees. The uprights have a little block that acts as a stop. And the indicator side has a small screw that rides in a arched slot. Remove this screw and reassemble the indicator with the uprights flipped. (block facing outwards. Now the head can rotate past the 0 degree point. I made a new mark on the indicator side so I had a quick reference of 0-ish' but use the level anyway for final adjustment. As Catspaw mentioned there is still the need to be SURE that the head is locked down so it won't droop, as there is now nothing stopping the head at 0. Adding the 1/2" spacer I mentioned will offer even more room to level items. Let me know if you like this idea. I will be testing it more in near future. May make a video for it if it all works out.
I can't get rotary chuck to hold on to heavy dollar store tapered glasses. It don't matter if I try to grip them from the small end or the wide end, they slip out of the the chuck. And, it also doesn't matter if I grip them outside or inside. Any ideas?
My best suggestion is 3d print some different jaws if you can and make some sort of roller rest for the unsupported end. Or maybe get lighter glasses, the chuck has its limits.
No idea, but a pro won’t be using a diode laser. This would be fine for a side hustle, but if you were making a living off it, you’d want a CO2 laser to start with and then whatever compatible rotary you could get.
I don't have a lazer, so not really applicable to me now, but may get one in the future. I appreciate the detail that you go into and the tips you bring, just like the rest of your videos. - Chris
Thank you!
Yours are Digital calipers, the plastic one is a vernier calipers. A dial caliper has a needle that pivots from the center of the!!!! (Drum roll) Dial. Very good video and narrated well and our voice suits this type of content.
Thanks for the tips too! I am on the hunt for a rotary that has chuck jaws as an option. 😁🛫
Pretty interesting indeed! Thanks a bunch for the demonstration and tips, dude! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you!
Atomstack Maker R1 chunk is awesome...
Gonna need more beer cans! 😅 Great video.. Thanks for the info!
That was helpful. Thanks. Since airing have you printed or made any mods like you were thinking of?
Not yet, I actually haven’t really used it. As you can see from my channel, I’m more of a woodworker than a laser enthusiast. Atomstack gave me a bunch of stuff if I’d test it and make a video, this was one of those things. I use the laser all the time, but I haven’t really had need to use the rotary.
@@catspawcustomsindeed. You do fine work!
@@AndyCiordia Thanks!
Just ordered my R1 chuck. so cant wait to play. But i would prefer a switch so i dont have to keep plugging in different device but hard to find here in Europe.
Isn't it the roller diameter actually the diameter of the spinning rollers on the rotary tool?
What are you using in the pint glasses?
You talking about the coating? Just some spray primer.
About holding a cup from below... can't you rotate the motor to the other side and raise the bottom plate as needed then...?
Yes this is the design of the chuck to be able to do this. But there are some limitations in my case- Once I flip the motor over and try to put the base sticking backwards and a tumbler sticking out I can't fit this in the enclosure I made...
I see two flaws that will need addressing in my case. The above mentioned is supposed to be the solution. I don't like that the chuck is about a 1/2 inch to short from the base up. A average mug with a handle will just hit the base.
I am planning a 1/2" spacer for both the uprights under the motor, and the suction cup support. Then I will not need to flip the motor over just to clear basic handled mugs.
I just managed to solve the part of the equation that Catspaw mentioned at the end.
There are 2 points of "detents" that stop it from going past 0-180 degrees. The uprights have a little block that acts as a stop. And the indicator side has a small screw that rides in a arched slot. Remove this screw and reassemble the indicator with the uprights flipped. (block facing outwards.
Now the head can rotate past the 0 degree point. I made a new mark on the indicator side so I had a quick reference of 0-ish' but use the level anyway for final adjustment.
As Catspaw mentioned there is still the need to be SURE that the head is locked down so it won't droop, as there is now nothing stopping the head at 0.
Adding the 1/2" spacer I mentioned will offer even more room to level items.
Let me know if you like this idea. I will be testing it more in near future. May make a video for it if it all works out.
I can't get rotary chuck to hold on to heavy dollar store tapered glasses. It don't matter if I try to grip them from the small end or the wide end, they slip out of the the chuck. And, it also doesn't matter if I grip them outside or inside. Any ideas?
My best suggestion is 3d print some different jaws if you can and make some sort of roller rest for the unsupported end. Or maybe get lighter glasses, the chuck has its limits.
What power and speed do you set it to for stainless tumbler.
Everything’s different, your best bet is to get a spare and run a materials test.
You mentioned that it was good for hobbyists. What do pros use?
No idea, but a pro won’t be using a diode laser. This would be fine for a side hustle, but if you were making a living off it, you’d want a CO2 laser to start with and then whatever compatible rotary you could get.