Watch BEFORE You TRY The RA2 Pro Laser Rotary Attachment
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- Опубліковано 2 чер 2022
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This is my in-depth tutorial showing how to use a rotary with a laser machine, in this video I am specifically using the RA2 Pro by XTool but these concepts and tips should translate to other brands. Also the RA2 Pro Rotary is Compatible with other brands also. I go over all the basics and a few tricks and tips I have picked up along the way. This is not the only way to do things but this is a great place to get someone started.
Rotary RA2 Pro
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Video Time Stamps (tap to jump)
The RA2 Pro 0:20
Leveling Out Objects 1:10
Transforming From Roller to Chuck Rotary 1:52
How to Hold Engrave Mugs 7:37
Plugging in the Rotary 9:05
Lining Up The Rotary 10:26
Calibrating Chuck Rotary With LightBurn 10:46
How to measure objects 12:04
LightBurn Settings 13:39
Power and Speed Settings 15:03
Engraving Tumblers 15:45
Using the Roller Rotary 18:57
Calibrating Roller Rotary 19:35
Roller Rotary Engraving 20:28
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Just saw this, nice explanation. I am using the same tumblers with the chuck, p65 s50. Similar size graphics. Cleaning I found the magic eraser used with the LA Awesome cleaner works and brings the engraved area to the same shine as the uncoated area.
Very nice video and detail! Enjoying your videos and the Working Hands Podcast!
Thanks Chad!
Thank you Tony, it is great to put a name and face to one of our listeners.
Awesome, informative video brother! Thank you!!
This is awesome thank you! I checked the A axis box in my settings and it seems to work fine. That way I don't need to change back and forth.
Great to hear!
Bro. You're a genius. JEN. YUS. I didnt even think to put the chucks on the inside of the cup. You just saved my life.
Thanks Witt, that or taking the shield off makes using the rotary much easier.
@@ChadsCustomCreations yeah i was wondering if I should take the shield off
Came here for the same reason. My light shield kept hitting my chuck. Brilliant!
Thank you for the video, I was wondering if I should get the RA2 and now I will 🙂
It's a great device I love mine. I actually find myself using this over the bigger rotaries that I have on my large scale Co2 machines.
Thanks for this, I will be setting mine up this weekend
Great if you have any questions be sure to reach out. I keep seeing xtool have good luck with their laserbox basic software but I can only get good results from LightBurn.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I switched to LightBurn too
Awesome video, I've been looking for this info. Thanks.
I have a Sculpfun S30 and a RA2 from XTool but I really don't know how to use it. I did a little test and kind of worked but somehow the rotary doesn't really rotate. Only little left and right movements but no real rotation. I appreciate your reaction to my message.
Have you tried increasing the number of steps per rotation?
Very nice. Simple and easy
Thanks so much!
Thanks for showing how to connect rotary and that you can leave it plugged in!
So sadly this extra plug I believe were removed on the newer Xtool pro
Great video, Thank you.
Thank you for the education, well done.
Happy to help however I can.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Hi Chad, thanks again for the help. I'm trying to run the same tumbler as in your video, so I reverted back to your informative video for my setup.
I'm new to this so please forgive my ignorance, but I'm trying to figure out why your running 25mm speed with 100% power, if all you're trying to do is remove the paint from the tumbler?
I just updated my LightBurn software to 1.2 so I have the latest version.
My logo I'm trying to run is about the same size as in your video, but my preview shows with your settings used it will take over 40 hours to complete the project.
I can't even get the project to frame properly, so I know at least I have a compound problem, if not worse! However the main take away from your video for me was the rotary orientation to the machine, and the logo orientation in the software. Now I just have to put on my thinking cap.
Keep helping us man, not that we deserve it, but perhaps in the end, we can all help one another.
Don
@@donaldtimmons7675 Hello Donald keep at it you will get it. Looking back I believe I could probably have run at a much faster speed I think I was actually darkening the metal at that slow speed, which I didn't want in this application. Definitely have a spare tumblers for testing or some scrap dowels to get the orinetation right. Mistakes will be made and it's best to mess up on items you don't care about trashing.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks Chad, great tip! I guess I was enjoying success with the original rotary, and am just having trouble wrapping my mind around this RA2 operation.
I have plenty of dowel to work with so this was just the tip I needed!
Don
ese movimiento del chuck que hiciste me salvo no sabia como hacer las tazas con agarraderas genial
¡Gracias!
Do you have a tutorial for making adjustments for engraving on tapered tumblers, etc.
I do not but buster beagle 3d does go check out his channel it should be in there somewhere.
Great video. So you mentioned that the extra port on the control board is no longer there on new units? I have a D1Pro 20w and seems like all the setup videos I see, show that port being empty. I've been trying to figure out why mine is different. I'm glad you mentioned it, because I have not seen that from xtool. This means that I have to disconnect the Y axis motor plug whenever I want to use the rotary, and then swap it back when I want to use the xtool without the rotary? And do I check the Y axis option in the setup of the rotary? Also, is it me or does xtool have poor support manuals/videos for this detailed setup.
Thanks,
Alex
Yes this was kind of a sad update honestly I could do without the limit switches
Great demonstration! I've been struggling with LaserBox Basic a bit, you may just have sold me on lightburn! (Do they do affiliate links?)
Yeah I really wanted Laser box basic to work but it just wouldn't it the beta with the Chuck option was causing some very strange things to happen. LightBurn is worth it 100% no affiliate links but I appreciate you asking thank you for the support.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Hey just wanted to confirm : Installed Lightburn tonight... All my troubles disapeared!!! Thanks again!! Note : Do you mind if I mention this video as a ressource I used when first diving into Lightburn (an upcoming video on my channel)?
That is so great to hear yes light burn is definitely the way to go! Yes you have my approval to use whatever you like thank you for that.
Thanks for the information. I just got my D1 and RA2 This week and am trying to figure things out. Is there a chart or information for speed and power for different materials? Thank you! Keep up the good work.
www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings this is a pretty good starting point but don't be afraid to experiment
Have you tried ZEP505 cleaner? Works well for the tumblers we engrave. I will have to try the magic eraser.
I have not I’ve started using LAs totally awesome and it lives up to its name. I think I actually went too slow on these any actually colored the metal it should not have been this hard to clean.
Very helpful videos. So… I can’t seem to find anything on safety. Since this is not enclosed like the M1, do you use it in a garage setting (open space) How do you handle fumes?
Definitely want to evacuate the fumes either with a box fan or set get one of their enclosures that can have tubing and an inline fan.
good morning i’m new to the xtool what rotor would you recommend the original or number two
Definitely the RA2 Pro
Hi there! Any chance you could tell me what the height of this RA2 is from the bottom side of the base to the center of the 3-jaw chuck? I think this could to be great axis for one of my other machines but am looking for this dimension to confirm fitment. Thank you!
It’s right at about 2-7/8” or 72mm
Very useful video. It drove me insane watching you use inches, though. CAD and CAM programs almost always have the option for inches, but they're really designed for millimeters. The working area and all other dimensions of the xTool are even given in mm.
Haha I definitely see where you are coming from. For me it's all about being proficient in communication with my customers they all speak in imperial so I mainly stick with that.
Newbie here! Have you used the D1 Pro on a 30oz tumbler? I’m cannot figure out how to make it not travel on the rotary and the chuck isn’t large enough to hold it while engraving. I know I’m doing something wrong, just not sure what. I have used the support piece also
With the chuck have you tried clamping onto the bottom of it?
At 6:00 we are told that we could engrave on the rim but I think you would have a problem with the chuck jaws hitting the shroud on the laser.
You can remove the shroud just be sure to have safety glasses on and don't let anyone one or animals view the bright light.
Do you know the size of the screws that hold the rotary portion that grabs the cups (not the roller) to the RA2pro
I am sorry I actually do not.
I have a Sculpfun S9. Is this just a plug in and play with my machine? Using Lightburn. I suppose it’s all gcode and should work?
Yes I believe it will plug right in. Check the listing from the links in the description I believe they have a list of confirmed plug in and ready to go if not you could always wire in a new plug.
I have the xtool P2 do I need the riser or can I just put something under machine
As far as I remember it does need the riser, I think it may have some kind of safety switch but you might be able to hack it and make it work.
I have the beginner mode on the lightburn so on the laser window I don't have all those settings like the enable rotary, Cut selected graphs, Use selected origin or Optimize cut path. So why is mine different from yours?
Turn off beginning mode.
How do you price your products? Time to etch/engrave, per piece, size, etc.?
I run larger productions now but I try to make sure my shop is making $75 per hour while I am out there not including material cost.
You should consider making a jig for that rotary so you don't have to square everytime.
Yes that is a really great idea!
How do you keep the crosshairs on?
You should be able to turn them on your off from inside the machines settings in XTool creative space on your computer.
Good video if u hit windows preview is there.
Yes
Helpful video, but the tumblers didn't seem to have nice finish. Seems to have an uneven finish. By the way, what is the setting for the dishwasher?
You’re right I think o actually had the speed too low on the laser and was actually discoloring the metal. I should have sacrificed one of the tumblers and just done a speed grid to find the sweep spot.
Hi! I want to buy a laser machine but but sure which one. I know I want a rotary piece too. What all do I need to get started?
This father's day package has everything you need and I think you can an additional 5% off using promo code Chadxtool
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great video but on my kight burn the enable rotary, cut selected graphics, use selected origin and optimize cut path do not show up. I reference 14 minutes 12 seconds in the video. can you direct me on that?
It’s possible you have beginner mode enabled look for a check box in setting to turn that off.
how do you the rotary to show up in your side box and where you say plug wire in and you can leave it mine already has a wire in that spot?
Under options make sure you don’t have beginner mode on. Also with the Xtool pro newer version of what you see me using here you have to unplug that that wire and plug the rotary into that spot. You are unplugging the up and down motor and giving its power to the rotary.
@@ChadsCustomCreations do not have beginner mode on still not on side
Really liked your video here.I have been working with my tumblers and keep running into the same problem in Lightburn, the program makes everything about 2 inches wide no matter what. I must be missing a step somewhere but not sure. Relatively new to all this. Using the xtool D1. Importing graphic from gimp. Thanks in advance for any input.
In lightburn you want to go into the rotary setup under setting or tools and you gotta find the correct amount of steps per rotation to calibrate it. Or if using the rotary chuck you must also remember to set the circumference or diameter each time you use different sized objects.
Will this work on a K40?
You might have to make an adapter for the wires but you would plug it into the y axis motor line and it should work.
I have the 10w D1 and I did not get the right hardware to install the chuck so I decided to try to experiment with the rollers. My rollers don't spin when enabled. Do you have any idea why that would be? I sent Xtool a video and pictures of the parts I got, but being on different time zones it is hard to communicate efficiently. Now I am frustrated with the rollers not even spinning!
Have you got it fixed sorry I am just not seeing this.
@@ChadsCustomCreations yes ty
could this set up work with orttur laser pro?
Yes absolutely ortur is a direct plug in and ready to use.
can you tell me if you can make a line width .013' and .050" deep
Hmm on metal not sure but take a look at what a 70w
ua-cam.com/video/GHFWKfaUeuU/v-deo.html
I’ve seen on other videos that the mm (stops) per rotation should be 1440 not 128. Why is your’s different?
Also I think it looks like your engrave is too deep. It looks like the steel isn’t shiny? Did you get settings that turn out better that you can share?
At the time that is what was recommended on their website and it was accurate for me you can test this out but marking your start point and end point with some tape and a sharpie and running a rectangle that is the height of your circumference.
Yes I believe I was running it way too slow at this time it was actually darkening the metal which is not what you want, really you just want to remove the top coating.
I have followed all of the directions and have it all set up. I have my project framed but now when I go to start the project nothing happens?
Any advice?
Hmm sounds interesting is anything moving when you hit start?
@@ChadsCustomCreations It will frame when I tell it to, but as soon as I click start nothing happens. The laser will not fire nor move when prompted to start.
@@Dgsvids are you using lightburn, if so make sure the output is checked for the color layer you have selected for the image your using. Also be sure that you have the item selected if using cut selected items only. To me it sounds like it’s something in the software.
@@Dgsvids one other thought I can’t remember if this is true or not but after hitting start on the computer you may have to press that top button on the xtool to get it started.
Sometimes mine does that too. If u watch your computer screen does it do a quick pop up with possible out of bounds lasering? It only last a few seconds so it took me a bit to notice it.
Can i use it with the xtool p2
Yes it is compatible with the p2
Thank you
I only have one connection on my board and have to chose between my Y axis or my rotary...Am I missing something?
I do believe the extra spot was only available on the older model before they came out with the pro and added the limit switches.
I do believe the extra spot was only available on the older model before they came out with the pro and added the limit switches.
Did you ever find a way to make the engraving "cleaner"?This is the issue we are having.
On these cups I was running them too slow, so that would have made cleanup easier. Or if you are talking about the resolution try decreasing the line interval number or dpi to make the laser engrave a higher quality.
Are you using a 10W or 20W laser? 25mm/sec at 100% power won't do much on my 10W D1.
10w make sure your in focus and your lens isn’t dirty.
@@ChadsCustomCreations 25mm/s sounds extremely slow to me. I usually go with 60mm/s @100% pwr and is enough for well know brands (and for some generic Amazon tumblers I will go up to 80-90mm/s and still do fine). In fact, at the low speed you used, aren't you etching the material? seems a bit too dark instead of super shiny.
@@mcwaremexfdz you are right Marco I was over burning these going way too slow ended up spending so much time trying to buff them back too a shine when I should have just gone at the speeds you recommended!
what does light burn cost?
$60 for machines like xtool
@@ChadsCustomCreations thx
Is this the 10 or 20w laser system?
That was the 10w
@@ChadsCustomCreations thanks for the reply! I have a Grey 20w on order..looking forward to start lasering!
@@RealDustyChandler the 20w is amazing so cool what it can do with metals.
Will a 5W work?
Can you get more of the residue off? Doesn't look clean.
So turns out I was going way too slow and was etching the metal. Go faster and you will have clean metal.
Using "LA AWESOME" works the best when cleaning tumbler cups and you can get that at Dollar General .
Definitely going to try that wasn't sure if I was maybe running too slow at 25mm/s at 100% Thinking now I wonder if I was maybe marking the metal going that slow. Should have spent more time on my test cup.
@@ChadsCustomCreations your temps were too high, you were reburning the coating back onto the cup, i generally use 40-60 at 70-80 speed for cups, use la awesome and it wipes to the shiny color. i'm sure you have it fixed by now though.
@@tonysucksatoutdoors thank you Tony I knew I had something wrong. I should have just sacrificed one of the cups and done a speed scale test.
@@tonysucksatoutdoors I'm even lower. I run a 20w at 25% power at a speed of 25. Nice and shiny and crisp lines. Sacrificing a cup to dial in those numbers is the way to go.
@@scottdouglas9858 yep I have a test cup that has all kinds of cuts on it haha
Pro cannot simply switch on and off the rotary without re-configuring the cables. Apparently the cheap-o's repurposed a stepper motor port for limit switches and now dedicate the y-motor to the rotary attachment port... frickin frustrating
Yes this was a bad move on XTools part I feel like for a few extra bucks they could have put in some kind of splitter for the cables.
i just want to use it inside xcs...why have they made it so difficult
Inside XCS you can skip all of this nonsense.
Did you say eggstra support? lol @7:14
Hahahaha you Win!!!
@@ChadsCustomCreations Jokes aside, great video.
If you leave 0.5 cm of distance from the laser module to the tumbler you will have a clean engraved.
That’s a great tip thank you for sharing mine were definitely burned too slow too, I think I was changing the color of the steel.
I was forced to go step by step and I finally realized that distance from the laser module to wherever you’re engraving makes a huge difference.
the engraving does not look bright what I did is use the coatel parameter 100% power but lower the speed I use a 10w diode
Yes I agree I believe my setting were not optimal. I thought I was actually going to slow causing the metal to engrave darker than normal, but I could be wrong it’s been a while.
Just fyi... Vacuum insulated tumblers like Artic and Yeti are not dishwasher safe. You will ruin the vacuum seal and hence ruin the insulation properties of the tumbler!
Well that is very disappointing considering the price of those brands. But good to know thank you.
It's not good practice to place magnets on or near electronics. Thanks for the good tutorial, .... Baz. Australia.
Yeah I was wondering about that probably shouldn't have shown that one.
Ignore my crappy spelling.
Adapters Cable for? roller D1X Tool or Ortur / I have the check for D1X Tool but I want to use it on Ortur Pro 3 & Ortur PRO 2 cables are compatible in which the pink configurations I need to look for with any of the three machines. There's not been a simple answer so far I know that they have to have a cable converter. Adam stack seems to work fine on my Ortur Pro 2 & Ortur Pro 3 but I want to use D1X Tool the Chuck my Ortur Pro 3 cause it was given to me for free and there's no reason to spend another $300 another roller.
Yeah if you can’t find the right adapter as long as the voltage is similar you can always wire up your own to make it work.
The X Tool does not have the power to laser cleanly to the metal. The shadow that remains is why the X Tool is a hobby tool. The rotary tool is versatile.
You’d be surprised I was actually using too much power here it was darkening the metal when I should have just been removing the powder coating. I could have run it much faster.
I have found that Simple Green and a tooth brush cleans it up very nicely.@@ChadsCustomCreations
@@ChadsCustomCreationsWhat’s a good setting for an insulated mug?? Power and speed… thanks
Great video, love how you explain everything, but your design looked awful (sorry). I was expecting a clear crisp image. Is that the nature of lasering, or were you able to hone in your settings for a better end result? I'm new and don't want to spend the $$ if that's the qualify of etching I'm going to get. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words. My fault I should have used a different font that font is called awakening and it is supposed to appear all beat up and rustic like that. Basically a laser like this can capture the came amount of quality you can achieve from a printer so don’t let my bad example tarnish their reputation. What you see on your screen can be reproduced on your materials.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Whew, thanks for the quick response and good to know. I do custom epoxy tumblers and would love to get into this aspect as well. Thanks again!
23 minutos para un solo grabado no lo veo rentable, sin contar el tiempo que toma prepararlo todo.
Thanks for watching sorry this reply took so long. It could have been run much faster than what I did here I would estimate it should have actually only taken about 5 minutes for one this size.
That seems like an excessive amount of trouble
I believe 70% of what people are doing the rollers are just fine, though anyone wanting to get into mugs, rings, spheres, and things of that nature this is the way to go.