BEST WAY TO FIX A LATER MODEL GM IS CALLED THE SHOTGUN DIAGNOSTIC METHOD LOAD A 12 GAUGE SHOTGUN WITH # 8 SHOT ,OPEN HOOD STAND ON MILK CRATE OR STEP LADDER, GET BACK AT LEAST 15 FEET AIM INSIDE ENGINE BAY AND GIVE IT A BLAST, AFTER THE BLAST INSPECT ENGINE AND REPLACE EVERY SENSOR THAT HAS BEEN HIT BY THE SHOT,WORKS EVERY TIME
Men I kno that feelings my friend take a brake 4 a few days refresh and try it again that's how I do it,i step back 4 a few do a little more research then back 4 more good luck 4 more future brake down stay safe God bless☝🤙👍
Try your speed sensor the big round one that goes in the side if your transmission. Had some of the same problems also. Services transmission pan and pick up filter helped with a few things also
Its not a particular, vehicle make/model specific vacuum line! Its a hard tube evap line..... 3/16", 1/4", 5/16"... W/e the inside diameter is. Its just a tube! Reading the comments is blowing me away with how people are getting stmped over th8s! I get that a brake booster line might stump people with its particularly shaped line that has a metal tube inside the rubber tube. I totally understand that people wouldn't bend some aluminum or copper, then slide a fat fuel rated tube over it, to make a new brake booster tube. N if u cant find 1 for ur vehicle, n dont know how to make 1, THAT SUCKS! But bro....... This is just a simple freakin tube!
My 1993 chevy cheyenne c1500 has the 4.3L v6. Egr valve was bad it wouldnt hold vacuum when pushed diaphram down and hold finger over vacuum port it pop up. I replaced that. Motor still stumbled when hard accellerate or go up hills. Replaced egr solenoid itvstill stumbled but did seem run better. Tomorrow im going to check the vacuum lines to see if they cracked or holy plus try reset ecm by removing battery for 15 minutes. Hope it fixes problem. May be bad plug wires or plugs. *UPDATE:found out the main cause of engine misfire and stumbling/cutting off was bad distributor. Cost me $125 @ advanced auto and took about 30 minutes to replace. Fixed the issue for good. *
@@DJTAZ1996 I've done about everything to mine. Sensor replacement, solenoid replacement, IAC, TPS, plugs, wires Etc. A very good mechanic timed it and said there was no electric issues. Meaning the distributor and coil are fine. It'll start right up and idle just fine I can back out of my driveway and when I put it in Drive and give it gas starts out and then suddenly bogs down to almost dying, then back up again and it'll surge and/ or Miss and bog down again and run sluggish up until I get about 50 or 60 cruising down the highway. Then it has a noticeable skip in the engine. Not really a miss, almost like everything shuts down for a fraction of a second. Like a loose ground wire would do. I've checked them all and they seem to be good and even made the questionable ones very good. Anyway, long story longer, I saw on a form where a guy just pulled the vacuum line from the EGR solenoid. The one by the vent. Not the single. That made the bogging stop and at first thought that fixed the engine but after 5 minutes or so out driving around, it will have a very rough idle and what sounds like a miss cruising along at any speed. Anyway that's my situation hope I didn't bore you too much. And thanks for your reply. Also, forgive the grammatical nightmares. I'm voice texting and walking my dogs. And I rarely proofread lol
PS... I changed out the EGR valve with one that I found at a Pick-n-Pull. It seems to function all right doing the "finger over the vent inlet and pushing down on the diaphragm to see if it holds" test. I suppose it still could be the culprit? I know of no other tests for that type of EGR
@@bonscotty67 on my truck it was that grimlin jumping around. First i cut off muffler because it was clogged with rust after 26 years. It ran better but still coughed and farted going up inclines or pull a trailer it would buck and snort. I did the egr valve figuring it was the culprit but it was only part. Then i replaced egr solonoid still same issue. I changed fuel filter 3 times thinking trash in tank. Ut not that either. New fuel pump and pump solonoid nope. Finally i said going to look up vids on distributor so bought one and 15 minutes later it was in. Tested it out on road and it get gone way supposed to. On your truck check your idle control valve on side of throttle body. Ive heard those cause issues too
I know this videos 4 years old but i think you got it dont forget about the egr vacuum solenoid right by your map sensor. That's my next move. tired of seeing chk engine light.
@@6bettyboo9 plug wires for what? I’m currently having a problem where the gears won’t shift after test driving my gauges gave up because it didn’t change gears
Take the broken vacuum line and find a rubber line over it that’s snug to fix the broken plastic piece also disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer so it will try to learn the new parts. Even though that doesn’t have much of a computer on it
At the parts stores they don't have em over the counter. They won't pull up on their computers. I walked the isles and found everything I needed. Some stores have and some don't. Good luck on your search.
Fired up a truck that sat for 7 years. New tank new pump new lines new fuel filter it fired up got to operating temp and was running perfect with perfect oil pressure I gave it a little gas and it fell on its face oil pressure dropped to 20 it ran like shit and died out. Checked all vacuum lines everything seems fine. Help? (Manual transmission no torque converter)
Turned out to be the spark plug wires . I had replaced them a few years back just figured they were still good but as it turns out the end near the spark plugs were fairly corroded. runs like a top now. Needs a carrier bearing now though lol !
Just got a 90 c1500 and trying to figure out all the missing stuff in the engine compartment, barely a couple of weeks with it and I kinda know that frustrated feeling but I got it running and it's starting to look great.
Some older model transmissions use a vacuum line to shift, if the line is damaged they will shift early and give flat spots on the engine
You have to keep throwing parts at it until you've reached 95% new vehicle, then you are good to go.
and I did lol !
Thats where im at now.
I’m doing that as well I’m 600$ in already too
Im currently in this phase. Throwing new parts like a mf. No way im selling it right now 😂
We feel you brother! Keep at it.
BEST WAY TO FIX A LATER MODEL GM IS CALLED THE SHOTGUN DIAGNOSTIC METHOD
LOAD A 12 GAUGE SHOTGUN WITH # 8 SHOT ,OPEN HOOD STAND ON MILK CRATE OR STEP LADDER, GET BACK AT LEAST 15 FEET AIM INSIDE ENGINE BAY AND GIVE IT A BLAST, AFTER THE BLAST INSPECT ENGINE AND REPLACE EVERY SENSOR THAT HAS BEEN HIT BY THE SHOT,WORKS EVERY TIME
Lol u look like I feel.... having the same problem on my Chevy truck
The blue but connector will work to repair broken vacuum line. Just be careful when you heat it up to seal it together.
Men I kno that feelings my friend take a brake 4 a few days refresh and try it again that's how I do it,i step back 4 a few do a little more research then back 4 more good luck 4 more future brake down stay safe God bless☝🤙👍
Good luck on that vacuum line could not find that line at anyways store
Try your speed sensor the big round one that goes in the side if your transmission. Had some of the same problems also. Services transmission pan and pick up filter helped with a few things also
Its not a particular, vehicle make/model specific vacuum line! Its a hard tube evap line..... 3/16", 1/4", 5/16"... W/e the inside diameter is. Its just a tube! Reading the comments is blowing me away with how people are getting stmped over th8s!
I get that a brake booster line might stump people with its particularly shaped line that has a metal tube inside the rubber tube. I totally understand that people wouldn't bend some aluminum or copper, then slide a fat fuel rated tube over it, to make a new brake booster tube. N if u cant find 1 for ur vehicle, n dont know how to make 1, THAT SUCKS!
But bro....... This is just a simple freakin tube!
My 1993 chevy cheyenne c1500 has the 4.3L v6. Egr valve was bad it wouldnt hold vacuum when pushed diaphram down and hold finger over vacuum port it pop up. I replaced that. Motor still stumbled when hard accellerate or go up hills. Replaced egr solenoid itvstill stumbled but did seem run better. Tomorrow im going to check the vacuum lines to see if they cracked or holy plus try reset ecm by removing battery for 15 minutes. Hope it fixes problem. May be bad plug wires or plugs.
*UPDATE:found out the main cause of engine misfire and stumbling/cutting off was bad distributor. Cost me $125 @ advanced auto and took about 30 minutes to replace. Fixed the issue for good. *
I have the same truck in the same problem. Did you ever find out your issue?
Found out my distributor was failing. That combined with bad egr valve. Replaced distributor for $125 and it runs like new. Easy to replace
@@DJTAZ1996 I've done about everything to mine. Sensor replacement, solenoid replacement, IAC, TPS, plugs, wires Etc. A very good mechanic timed it and said there was no electric issues. Meaning the distributor and coil are fine.
It'll start right up and idle just fine I can back out of my driveway and when I put it in Drive and give it gas starts out and then suddenly bogs down to almost dying, then back up again and it'll surge and/ or Miss and bog down again and run sluggish up until I get about 50 or 60 cruising down the highway. Then it has a noticeable skip in the engine. Not really a miss, almost like everything shuts down for a fraction of a second. Like a loose ground wire would do. I've checked them all and they seem to be good and even made the questionable ones very good. Anyway, long story longer, I saw on a form where a guy just pulled the vacuum line from the EGR solenoid. The one by the vent. Not the single. That made the bogging stop and at first thought that fixed the engine but after 5 minutes or so out driving around, it will have a very rough idle and what sounds like a miss cruising along at any speed. Anyway that's my situation hope I didn't bore you too much. And thanks for your reply. Also, forgive the grammatical nightmares. I'm voice texting and walking my dogs. And I rarely proofread lol
PS... I changed out the EGR valve with one that I found at a Pick-n-Pull. It seems to function all right doing the "finger over the vent inlet and pushing down on the diaphragm to see if it holds" test. I suppose it still could be the culprit? I know of no other tests for that type of EGR
@@bonscotty67 on my truck it was that grimlin jumping around. First i cut off muffler because it was clogged with rust after 26 years. It ran better but still coughed and farted going up inclines or pull a trailer it would buck and snort. I did the egr valve figuring it was the culprit but it was only part. Then i replaced egr solonoid still same issue. I changed fuel filter 3 times thinking trash in tank. Ut not that either. New fuel pump and pump solonoid nope. Finally i said going to look up vids on distributor so bought one and 15 minutes later it was in. Tested it out on road and it get gone way supposed to. On your truck check your idle control valve on side of throttle body. Ive heard those cause issues too
Unplug your coolant temperature sensor will run perfect
Sounds like it's the vacuum line, best thin' 2 do is find the right pressure feedback hose!
YES, vacuum line can not have air leaks.
It was a throttle position sensor on mine
I know this videos 4 years old but i think you got it dont forget about the egr vacuum solenoid right by your map sensor. That's my next move. tired of seeing chk engine light.
Turned out the plug wires were bad. Never had that happen before. Still runs great to this day.
@@6bettyboo9 plug wires for what? I’m currently having a problem where the gears won’t shift after test driving my gauges gave up because it didn’t change gears
@@christophergarcia7608 spark plug wires 🤙🏼
I always did fuel line when I replaced vacuum lines they seem to last longer
Take the broken vacuum line and find a rubber line over it that’s snug to fix the broken plastic piece also disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer so it will try to learn the new parts. Even though that doesn’t have much of a computer on it
Neil Sulivan great idea thank you I'll do that ! I'll try disconnecting the battery too.
Where did you find the vacuum lines? I’m struggling to find them
At the parts stores they don't have em over the counter. They won't pull up on their computers. I walked the isles and found everything I needed. Some stores have and some don't. Good luck on your search.
The egr solenoid that comes before the egr valve. Was that the problem?
In the end I think it was the plug wires..
What's is your truck not doing? And will the truck run if you delete the EGR?
Fired up a truck that sat for 7 years. New tank new pump new lines new fuel filter it fired up got to operating temp and was running perfect with perfect oil pressure I gave it a little gas and it fell on its face oil pressure dropped to 20 it ran like shit and died out. Checked all vacuum lines everything seems fine. Help?
(Manual transmission no torque converter)
So hard to say could be so many things . I'd check compression just to make sure.
Ignition control module
same thing happeened to me with the line where did you find one?
I did not find any i taped it up with electrical tape and sent it.
I got a roll of smallest swamp color lines at home depot..it fit
.I use same to replace other lines that were taped or glued.
@@thunderchild321do you by chance know what size it was?
Try a higher pressure fule pump or a factory new one
Turned out to be the spark plug wires . I had replaced them a few years back just figured they were still good but as it turns out the end near the spark plugs were fairly corroded. runs like a top now. Needs a carrier bearing now though lol !
Change the temperature sensor
Check you ECM for shorts
Et T turned out to be a few things but most of all the plug wires were bad. Go figure they were only 2 years old. !
Where did the line from the egr go
to the back of the tbi collar
Did you find out the problem on your truck
It came down to bad plug wires believe or not. But the distributor was in pretty bad shape too. Still runs like a top today.
Just got a 90 c1500 and trying to figure out all the missing stuff in the engine compartment, barely a couple of weeks with it and I kinda know that frustrated feeling but I got it running and it's starting to look great.
Witch wires was bad
Plug wires were corroded . Which was wierd because they weren't that old. But I must have failed to put die electric grease.
Idle air sensor 100%
You have to keep throwing parts at it until you've reached 95% new vehicle, then you are good to go.