2007-2013 Silverado: How to replace the Spark Plugs
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- How to replace the spark plugs on a 2007-2013 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L V8. Visit www.masterjacks.com/videos/20... for helpful part and tool links.
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CHAPTERS
0:00 First Look
0:25 Parts & Tools
0:45 Access
1:07 Removal
1:44 Prep & Install
3:48 Ignition Wires
4:17 Finishing Up - Навчання та стиль
Nice work. Sort, well-filmed, clear, to the point, and very informative. I wish the rest of UA-cam was like this.
true
Keep dreaming 😂
just so no one gets confused , this entire proccess takes about hr and a half maybe a little more depending on how fast you work
I was able to do it in about 45 minutes
Took me three hours but I drank six beer as well.
Took me almost 4,taking breaks because of my age.
One of the best how-to's in general i've ever watched.
Short and to the point with no unneeded narration. Well done, thanks
Made it look easy, good job. for the hard side I do cheat and remove the wheel and wheel well... I work in chevy as a tech I got tired of leaning down uncomfortable in that side
Outstanding video and greag information step by step filming! Thankyou very much!
Thank you! I replaced my spark plugs and the wires without issue...well, getting to some of them spark plugs is a pain, but doable.
Number 8 spark plug is a PITA, I went through the fender well. Also heater hoses get in the way too.
Did the fender well work out better
JASON AYERS yes it was easier. You will still need a swivel socket .
Easy and quick video thank you. Very helpful.
Finally, first the info I want then details for those that need more help
nice work, i like this demo, silent . just get it done... nice truck ,, just like mine.
Great vid bud. Thanks a lot, btw I love the red mine is black with chrome accent. Next one will be red.
Accurate video, a way better than the other videos those have ton off Bla Bla
Very good video! good hints and angles.
Very nice diy. Awesome job
Great video.. Suoer cool of you to share!! Thanks
“Snug, not crazy tight” haha love it. I know exactly what ya mean.
Thanks for the vid, good work.
Great video
should mention check spark plug gap and use compressed air near the spark plugs before they come out to remove and debri from gettin in
120k miles on 2009 silverado 5.3l still on stock plugs :| Thank you for the video I need to tackle this soon, but mines running smooth still
Tungsten23 2008 Silverado z71 with 150k miles on stock plugs. Get them changed tomorrow. Just started bouncing rpms. Might just need the throttle body cleaned
I’m now at 160k miles, still stock plugs and wires! Fuel economy is tanking though, will be replacing soon.
@Nazteh Just wondered what happened with your engine. Any preventative maintenance that could have helped?
Did the plugs you took out, all have the same amount of space to work the socket?
Was there any cylinders more difficult to get to than others?
If so how did you make it happen?
OK some have said the lat pug on the passenger side is a PAIN to get in and out? Would have been nice to see some video or comments on those hard to get to plugs?
You got balls to use old spark plug wires . Once you yank them out, thet get goofy on ya. I swear the auto makers make them that way to break apart when u yank em. So you have to get new ones 😂 😂 😂, nice video 👍
Thank you sir !!!!!
Sweet thanks man
I did all this and only one of the spark plugs has smoke coming out of it when I run it for 10 mins or so. I trouble shooted it by changing the spark plug and the wire again with new ones and it still does it, any idea what it could be?
Jeeze, I thought I was a little OCD about my repair work, but washing your wires in the sink is almost too anal for me! But a heck of a lot cheaper than new ones. Good tip on the pliers. Those plug boots are knuckle busters without them.
Did you check the gap on the plugs? They don't always come gapped the same contrary to popular belief.
awesome vid. are all the cables same length?
Thanks, yes they are all the same
never put anti seize grease close to the first treads on the spark plug. use only on the last 3 treads.
Have you had a bad experience with this before? What's the reasoning?
Thank you sir.
I've got an 08 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L with 143K on it. I'm overdue for plugs and getting ready to tackle it. I've heard to not remove the plugs when the engine is still hot as there's a risk of stripping the threads in the head. I've also heard that the longer you wait the harder they can be to remove. So I'm assuming there's a bigger risk of stripping the aluminum threads. Should I be worried or use pb blaster or anything?
I personally wouldn't be too concerned. I imagine they'll come out fine. Waiting until it cools is good practice for metal expansion/contraction as well as comfort (not getting burned). Penetrating oil is a good idea if you have one that is uncomfortably tight. Best of luck! Thanks for watching
Bro you are the best mechanic on UA-cam keep it up none of that talkingshit pop the hood and start getting the work bro you are the best UA-cam mechanic can you please leave your email so I can hit you up personally I got a lot of questions thank you love peace and happiness Namaste my brother
I’m having trouble reconnecting the ignition wires to the ignition coils. Any suggestions?
Should be easy on easy off. Pull and twist on the boot
Is this the same or very similar to a 2010 Silverado? There’s no video out there for that year
bonecollectorpro yes, the 5.3L motor has been in use for a number of years
So sometimes when the light goes green I step on the gas and when I hit like 35-40 it kinda does a lil pull any idea what the fucc causes it ?
What do you mean a "lil pull"?
What is the plug going into the block in front of the cylinder 1 spark plug? I slipped with the wrench and cracked the plastic connection piece 😔
I'm not sure which piece you're referring too. Does it have an electrical connector in it? What color is it? Approx size? There's an engine coolant temp sensor just above spark plug #1.
Would you recommend I change my plugs on my 2012 silverado with 230k km on it?
If they've never been done, I'd say you're due.
I did exactly that and now I have. A heck engine light and the truck idles a bit more than usual. It’s a misfire but what did I do wrong. I know the plugs are correct because I wouldn’t have been able to screw them all the way in. Any thoughts will help.
I would check the codes to locate which cylinder is causing the misfire. (most parts stores will read them for free). Could be the gap got bumped on installation, or the boot isn't fully seated...
Is it necessary to unplug the battery?
No, there is no current from the ignition coils to the spark plugs when the engine is not running. If you disconnect other connectors unrelated to this repair, disconnect the battery to prevent inadvertently shorting a live wire.
You should get yourself a go-pro and mount it on your head so you can use 2 hands :)
POV... hot
Good video, don't you have to gap the plugs though
They are suppose to be pregapped from the factory. I would still check it tho
Do you have to change the wires whenever you change the spark plugs ? Or can you only change the spark plugs? Don’t be mean I’m really wondering
It's a good idea, but you don't have to. If the plugs are really bad (worn tips) then the wires experience more stress (resistance). They can begin carbon tracking and give you a miss. In general, ignition wires are done with the plugs.
I would change the wires only if they are damaged
No need for a torque wrench? Just wondering im gonna do my truck this weekend
"Snug, but not crazy tight" has worked well for me in spark plugs applications, but a good torque wrench will take out any guesswork.
Was wondering your opinion I have an 08 with original plugs having a misfire on cylinder 8 rough idle at times do you think that is the plugs also is there anything to worry about as far as then breaking off in the heads being that old with 189000 miles
hobertjr I would start with spark plugs and ignition wires. Those plugs/wires near the back of the engine experience the most heat so they're usually the first to misfire. I doubt you'll have any trouble with the plugs breaking off.
MasterJacks, okay thank you I've heard some horror stories with the heads stripping out and plugs breaking off I guess I'll give it a go thanks for the video very helpful
hobertjr it's more common on heads with deep spark plugs holes.
MasterJacks O ok thanks
Couple of things.
1 No checking of the "gap" before install?
2 You can if you want clean the wires with WD-40. It's very mild and no trips to the sink.
Thx for the vid.
MJ
I was hesitant to show checking the gap on iridium plugs fearing viewers might damage theirs in the attempt and knowing most people would be safe with the pre-gap from the plug manufacturer. It's a good comment and necessary check. I should have included it. Nice trick with the WD-40. I think I had heard that before, but had forgotten the trick. Thanks for watching!
@@MasterJacks Cool, didn't know they were Iridium plugs. I always thought IR plugs had multi-electrodes.
Learned something new. The WD-40 kinda rejuvenates the plastic.
WD-40 is conductive. I'm not sure if that would matter.
I have a 2011 GMC truck. Changing the spark plugs on this model is difficult. Almost as bad as replacing the headlight bulbs
Atleast it’s not as bad as removing the spare tire lol
I have an emotional breakdown anytime I see a headlight bulb go out knowing how much of a pain it is to replace hahah
Where did you pick up those pliers you used? Kinda perfect for this.
www.amazon.com/Circle-Ring-Nose-Pliers-diameter/dp/B01F0OSFHK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497576782&sr=8-3&keywords=ring+nose+pliers
I got mine at harbor freight.
Dont forget to always check ur gap on spark plugs,u gotta gap them to ur manufacturer recommendations
Spec is .040" or 1.02mm. Iridium plugs come pre-gapped, but it's a good idea to check. Be careful not to damage the electrode when checking.
What about the electrode gap?
Iridium plugs come pre-gapped, but it's a good idea to make sure none are damaged or obviously different.
Its been awhile since I changed a set. Do this now come pre-gapped?
Iridium and platinum plugs do come gapped. I'd just make sure you don't have any outliers. You could delicately check them with a feeler gauge. I'm not at a desktop at the moment to check the gap spec. I wouldn't be too stressed about it though.
@@MasterJacks thank you for the reply
The spark plugs shouldn't b smoking after u put i the new ones rite
Number 8?
Did you gap the plugs prior?
Iridum plugs come pre-gapped. You can check them, just be careful not to damage the electrode. I believe the spec is .040"
@@MasterJacks thanks for the reply!! appreciate the input
The goop stuff is not needed. I actually don't advise using it
Anti seize?
I think it would foul grounding.
🍀☘️⭐👍
How much was the cost
Approx $40 for plugs, another $40-80 on wires depending what you choose. Here are parts links to Amazon: www.masterjacks.com/2011-silverado-spark-plugs
Is that a 5.3?
Yes
Oh
There in no need to take out the intake plastic cover..
What is it with all of the "gap" comments ? This isn't 1977...
Thank you
😂
I saw a video showing something about a gap tool. Is that needed?
Most modern iridium or platinum plugs come pre-gapped to the plug manufacturer's recommendation and shouldn't need the gap set. If you want to check the gap, go get a spark plug gap tool from the parts house. They'll know what to sell you. Should only be a couple of bucks. A 1500 Silverado recommends a .060" gap in the owner's manual, and .040" on the decal under the hood. So...maybe split the difference? Just be careful checking the gap not to damage the iridium or platinum material on the plugs.
What size are the ring nose pliers? 5/8"? Doing the same job soon.
3/4"
I've seen you shouldn't use antiseize on these spark plugs
Chrome threads don't require anti-seize, but it's a personal preference for me.
Agreed. Antisieze is not needed on LS based engines.
I think it'll mess with the grounding of the plug.
I THINK I WOULD OF CHECKED THE GAP ON THE NEW PLUGS BEFORE I PUT THEM IN.
They’re pre gapped
You said never to pull on the wire but you just did. I don’t understand.
You want to be sure and pull on the boot, the big round part. If you pull on the wire going into the boot it can separate.
AcDelco? Ah, NGK is where it’s at
If I put anything else in, I'd be ripped apart by the community for not going with OEM, lol.
MasterJacks ha, I’m just joking around. Hey, how much of the dielectric grease and the antiseise did you need?
@@mjfdiecast1303 I used about a pea size on each of the boots. Not very much anti-seize, just enough to wet the threads without globbing up. Thanks for watching and commenting!
MasterJacks I’m using NGK. I looked it up and they recommend not using anti seize. Does it depend on the manufacturer?
@@mjfdiecast1303 Almost all plugs with chrome plated threads do not recommend anti-seize. It lubricates the threads and makes inadvertant over-torque possible, potentially stripping the threads. However, I always use anti-seize but take care not to over-tighten. I've never had a problem using it, but have seen chrome plated plugs break on removal because they've seized.
You didn't check the gap.
A real man would’ve started with the hardest one first but clearly you just did what everybody else did which is absolutely nothing quite pathetic