One reason NOT to lube a sparkplug is that it reduces friction by ~30%. There is an Aussie car guy on YT who used to be a Fastener Mech. Eng. IIRC, and just putting 1 drop of oil on a sparkplug/screw-bolt, turns it from a dry joint to a wet joint. Torque spec's outside of industry are usually given for a DRY joint, not a wet joint. So anytime you add oil or anti-sieze to threads and torque to spec, you are probably over-torqueing close to 30%. Might not matter on a wheel stud, however anyone who's broken a sparkplug can see the problem here. Use anti-sieze in most other applications sure, just make sure to use the smallest amount, not gob it on, and torque it to the very lowest end of spec or 10% below.
I have a small piece of vacuum hose, 3/16" x 8" in my toolbox, that I've been using for 30 years to install spark plugs. Slip one end over the terminal nut, and then dangle down into the cylinder head. Rotate with my fingers to start the plug threading. Never fails, and then just pull upwards to release after you've threaded a few rotations.
Also a big risk today is not buying your spark plugs from an authorized reseller. Counterfeit spark plugs are out there, especially for models that are otherwise quite expensive (Iridium). Same with counterfeit Shimano bike chains, for example the CN-HG701 11s chain. I’ve found fakes on Amazon fairly often.
I have put a little very light coat of anti seize on the thread. Did not have any issues at all. Believe me, you dont want that plug stuck on the engine. Of course i use a torque wrench to make sure it is not over torqued
This is just plain good common sense and hopefully the mechanics you take your car to, if you just have to pay someone to do fairly easy task , have learned the correct way to change plugs. One Thing he left out was to blow out any debris that landed down around the plug cavity. It's to bad that 99% of all the new drivers will never change or wanna learn how to change there plugs.
Agree. Dont use never seize. New plugs are usually coated with zinc or nickle plating to prevent rusting. Adding anti seize may also cause the plugs to back out, which I have seen cause the plug to blast out of the engine destroying the threads. Also, dielectric grease for the top of the plug is an insulator. Modern coils / wires use silicone which do not dry out, vulkanize, or dry rot. Old components would vulkanize to the spark plug, new stuff doesn't.. so don't risk the no spark issue by adding it.
I always take the plugs out of my cars every two or three years just to prevent them from getting frozen in there. And of course inspect them. Also prevents the boot from getting stuck on the plug.
I snapped an ignition coil bolt because even though there wasn't any visible corrosion, those bolts haven't been moved in 12 years. I think you have to work them loose by slightly undoing them and retightening them to free the threads. I did the same with the spark plugs because I felt them binding upon loosening.
What else is fun is when the rubber boot inside the spark plug socket grips the plug stronger than the locking ball on the extension, leaving the socket stuck on the plug down in the cylinder head.
I use 30 weight non-detergent motor oil on the threads. Just a little on my index finger and spread it around with one roll of the spark plugs threads. NOT ALL OVER THE ELECTRODE !!!. This will prevent thread locking and help the next guy, ME !! Nice honest video of FACTS !!
I use compressed air to blow out any dirt that may have accumulated around the spark plugs before removing them. This prevent dirt from falling into the cylinder and causing damage. When installing the spark plugs, I turn them counter clockwise until I feel a slight bump. Then I turn them clockwise. This prevents cross-threading. The rubber inserts in the spark plug socket eventually wears out, so I use a magnetic socket. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I inspect them for damage and check if the center electrode is centered with the curved ground electrode. I use a feeler gauge with a tool that's designed to push the ground electrode to close the gap. Sold online. On engines with aluminum heads, I wait at least 30 minutes before removing them from a hot engine, otherwise if you don't wait until the engine cools, you can pull the threads right out of the heads. After removing the old plug, place a rag at the end of a screwdriver and clean the spark plug hole where the plug makes contact with the head seat. Also, place a dab of die electric grease inside the spark plug boot/ignition coil boot. This makes it easier to remove the plugwire or coil next time DON'T FORGET TO INSPECT THE PLUWIRES OR IGNITION COILS.
You can gap platinums or iridiums if you use one of the squeezer tools now available. You may not have to, tho, because the factory gap may match your cars specs. Don't use those round gauges. Too rough. Use a good set of feeler gauges and gently insert into the gap. Don't use lubricant on the threads because it changes the torque specs. Also, make sure the engine is cold to avoid damaging soft aluminum engine threads.
Antisieze isn't necessary unless you plan on not doing the install until years later and you can change gap on platinum and iridium's just need to be super careful. I got some ac delco double platinums that were all improperly gapped.
if you dont have a spark plug socket, try a magnet on a telscoping stick thing if you have that so to not drop plug into the hole. OR use some paper to make the plug more snug in a regular hex socket
If you use a quality spark plug (like NGK), there is absolutely no need for anti-seize. Quality metal plating keeps the plug from seizing. Proper tightening is also crucial. There is a chance of over torquing the spark plug and stretching the metal shell if anti-seize or any type of lubrication is applied. Metal shell stretching can decrease the heat transfer characteristics and can lead to pre-ignition. Too much anti-seize can also melt and drip down on the firing end insulator and cause fouling/misfire.
#1 Common spark plug installation mistakes, even by technicians: Using Anti-Seize. Most plugs are already treated so don't screw around with the proper torque values.
A slight bit of aluminum antisieze on the spark plug threads is a good idea if installing into aluminum heads. Steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals and electrolosis can occur making it difficult to remove the plugs later. Keep the antisieve on the threads and not on the sealing surface, this will insure a good ground for the plug.
Amen. On those recessed plugs down in a hole it is a good idea to unthread the plugs about one turn, then pull out the socket and use your air compressor to blow out any debris that might have settled in there since the last plug service. Then reset the socket and remove the plug the rest of the way. Dirt and dust can settle into the hole over time even if it looks like it was sealed.
I always use a light coat of antisieze with trifle or kroil and and run them in and out a couple times, until they are smooth, and hand torque them, tight, but not too tight
It is important to remember even on plugs that shouldn't be gapped, always obtain the manufacturers spec for the gap and check it before installing it. It could be damaged or incorrect.
I recently (yesterday) replaced the coil packs & plugs on my Honda Fit. After replacing the first plug I couldn't get the coil in, it was sitting about half an inch above the other yet to be removed coil packs. Thought I'd go onto the next cylinder and come back to it later,,,,,,,spark plug could undo but not pull out...... Yep....the little rubber insert in the spark plug socket had remained on the plug on the first one (which is why I couldn't get the coil pack in). Put the rubber insert back in with glue (t7000 glue) and fitted the rest the next day no probs. Running a treat now :)
It would be great to see you change spark plug #6 on a first generation Nissan Frontier. I've seen your how to videos of you guys working on an 02 or 03 Frontier. I don't remember a spark plug change. Great video thanks!
So if you don't have a sparkplug socket, start the threads with the boot on the plug wires, it will slip instead of letting you cross thread it too. Always make a full turn backwards until you feel the threads make a slight clicking sound, when you hear it begin to tighten and you'll never cross thread anything again. It sucks to retap an aluminum head
Love the first clip at the beginning. People using an impact driver to push them plugs in as hard as they can as this crosses the threads like crazy. They did not thread them in first with their fingers then use a regular ratchet.
Yeah since the beginning of time I've always used anti seize from anything from my everyday crappy driver two or three hundred mile an hour funny car.... plus you left out one the most important tips you can give someone either backed him out or blow out the spark plug hole before they take that spark plug out of there lots of debris can fall down into the cylinder
I like a rubber lined socket, and I use electrical tape to secure the socket to the extention, so when I remove it, I don't leave it stuck to the plug. Also the first time you pull the threads out of an aluminum head, is the last time you will install plugs without a dab of anti-sieze. 🤣
If I'm not having any misfires and otherwise everything feels and sounds alright, can preemptively changing my spark plugs still enhance my fuel economy?
No, unless you were getting a misfire code or the coils are very old, there is no need to change them. Definitely not each time, that would get very expensive!
Most modern vehicles use platinum or iridium plugs which should be changed between 60K - 150K miles. If your car is in the upper range of the number (or higher), replacing the wires isn’t required but, it is a good idea. 150k - 200k++ I’d recommend replacing the coil packs as well. Especially if your getting a check engine light, reduced MPG and/or a misfire diagnostic code.
On engines old enough that they still have distributors, yeah probably. Almost every car from the 2000s uses coil on plug, so it’s more of a wiring harness than individual spark plug wires. As somebody else already noted the coil packs will eventually wear out; but I just did my first spark plugs on the current car at 105K miles and the original coil packs are showing no problems
Also it's a good idea to crack the plug loose just a small amount then blow compressed air into the spark plug well hole so nothing goes in the engine.
5:18 I just use Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool to insert spark plug2. I carefully deep the spark plug on the tip of this Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool, then start turning clockwise. If spark plug doesn't fit to thread right away it won't be forced. After couple of turns, I use a 5/8 or 16mm socket to finish the job.
Talk about doing this in the midwest when its 7 degrees and the back 3 are buriedbm under a ton of parts and you get them in and out blind by feel but your fingers are numb except for when you stab/slice your hand on all the sharp shit you force yourself between
It's not just about gas mileage! You burn more fuel = more emissions, more carbonation, oil gets worse sooner, gpf gets clogged sooner, catalytic con.. you have an idea.. edit: my car had the platinum ones and i switched to iridium, no prob so.. you again have an idea
Most morden spark plugs have a coating on the threads, anti size is not needed, anti size can work it's self down around the ground strap and short the spark, if you do use anti size use very little as possible, yes you can gap platinum and iridium plugs, proper spark gap is important for a engine to run efficient, over gap leads to power loss under engine load, using the right type of plug recommended by manufacturer no matter what the brand, and setting the right spark plug gap is important for a efficient running engine.
Should you avoid using a spark plug that has been dropped (let's say 4 feet onto concrete) even if the gap is still correct and the threads haven't been damaged?
I cross threaded one time and what I did to avoid having to rethread it with a tap and die is I got an old spark plug and I cut a v into on both sides and then I was able to start that one and then it rethreaded the hole.
Never seen MAGNETIC 🧲 SPARK PLUG SOCKET IN MY LIFE,NEVER HAVE HEARD OF ONE EITHER TILL NOW!! I've only seen them with foam inside for obvious reasons, another excellent idea!! Alot of people think they can put ANY KIND OF spark plug into ANY ENGINE,WRONG.
Did my 08 f150 over the weekend. A few issues I ran into... The rubber in the spark plug socket came out with the plug a few times. How to avoid? Don't push the plug too hard into the socket. It should still hold with light pressure. Another thing which turned this tune up into a 2 day back breaking process was at some point in the history of the vehicle a rat had built a home on top of the motor and even after compressed air there were small black round seeds that found their way into the port and stuck around the base of the plug. Had to use a camera like the one in the video and a copper wire dipped in rtv silicone to extract each one painstakingly slowly and carefully. What a nightmare. But I got her done and she's purring like a kitten after changing all the ignition coils as well. Work slowly and patiently and you can do it.
The problem is is when I actually tried to torque down my spark plugs it seemed like I was tightening them way too much before my torque wrench clicked on an 03 S10
One reason NOT to lube a sparkplug is that it reduces friction by ~30%. There is an Aussie car guy on YT who used to be a Fastener Mech. Eng. IIRC, and just putting 1 drop of oil on a sparkplug/screw-bolt, turns it from a dry joint to a wet joint.
Torque spec's outside of industry are usually given for a DRY joint, not a wet joint.
So anytime you add oil or anti-sieze to threads and torque to spec, you are probably over-torqueing close to 30%. Might not matter on a wheel stud, however anyone who's broken a sparkplug can see the problem here.
Use anti-sieze in most other applications sure, just make sure to use the smallest amount, not gob it on, and torque it to the very lowest end of spec or 10% below.
This guy is cool and family friendly. I can have my kids watch mechanic stuff with me. Great job
I love the magnetic sparkity plug sockets... wonderful invention.
You CAN check the gap on Platinum & Iridium plugs, you just need a Wire gap tool instead of the Coin one.
Steel body of the spark plug and aluminum heads I was always taught that aluminum and steel don’t play well together. I always use anti seize.
Always use a Lil dab of dielectric grease on the bottom of ignition coil boot
I have a small piece of vacuum hose, 3/16" x 8" in my toolbox, that I've been using for 30 years to install spark plugs. Slip one end over the terminal nut, and then dangle down into the cylinder head. Rotate with my fingers to start the plug threading. Never fails, and then just pull upwards to release after you've threaded a few rotations.
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
I didn't know you shouldn't check or change gap on irradium plugs. Thanks!
Also a big risk today is not buying your spark plugs from an authorized reseller. Counterfeit spark plugs are out there, especially for models that are otherwise quite expensive (Iridium). Same with counterfeit Shimano bike chains, for example the CN-HG701 11s chain. I’ve found fakes on Amazon fairly often.
I have put a little very light coat of anti seize on the thread. Did not have any issues at all. Believe me, you dont want that plug stuck on the engine. Of course i use a torque wrench to make sure it is not over torqued
This is just plain good common sense and hopefully the mechanics you take your car to, if you just have to pay someone to do fairly easy task , have learned the correct way to change plugs. One Thing he left out was to blow out any debris that landed down around the plug cavity. It's to bad that 99% of all the new drivers will never change or wanna learn how to change there plugs.
Agree. Dont use never seize. New plugs are usually coated with zinc or nickle plating to prevent rusting. Adding anti seize may also cause the plugs to back out, which I have seen cause the plug to blast out of the engine destroying the threads. Also, dielectric grease for the top of the plug is an insulator. Modern coils / wires use silicone which do not dry out, vulkanize, or dry rot. Old components would vulkanize to the spark plug, new stuff doesn't.. so don't risk the no spark issue by adding it.
I always take the plugs out of my cars every two or three years just to prevent them from getting frozen in there. And of course inspect them. Also prevents the boot from getting stuck on the plug.
I snapped an ignition coil bolt because even though there wasn't any visible corrosion, those bolts haven't been moved in 12 years. I think you have to work them loose by slightly undoing them and retightening them to free the threads. I did the same with the spark plugs because I felt them binding upon loosening.
I'm getting ready to change all my sparks because two are slightly wiggling and making clicking sounds, so this video was extremely helpful. Thanks!
What else is fun is when the rubber boot inside the spark plug socket grips the plug stronger than the locking ball on the extension, leaving the socket stuck on the plug down in the cylinder head.
Been there! Whoever invented the magnetic spark plug socket better be a millionaire, they’re ingenious and makes the job a breeze
Ooo, that can't be fun.
I use 30 weight non-detergent motor oil on the threads. Just a little on my index finger and spread it around with one roll of the spark plugs threads. NOT ALL OVER THE ELECTRODE !!!. This will prevent thread locking and help the next guy, ME !!
Nice honest video of FACTS !!
I use compressed air to blow out any dirt that may have accumulated around the spark plugs before removing them. This prevent dirt from falling into the cylinder and causing damage. When installing the spark plugs, I turn them counter clockwise until I feel a slight bump. Then I turn them clockwise. This prevents cross-threading. The rubber inserts in the spark plug socket eventually wears out, so I use a magnetic socket. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I inspect them for damage and check if the center electrode is centered with the curved ground electrode. I use a feeler gauge with a tool that's designed to push the ground electrode to close the gap. Sold online. On engines with aluminum heads, I wait at least 30 minutes before removing them from a hot engine, otherwise if you don't wait until the engine cools, you can pull the threads right out of the heads. After removing the old plug, place a rag at the end of a screwdriver and clean the spark plug hole where the plug makes contact with the head seat. Also, place a dab of die electric grease inside the spark plug boot/ignition coil boot. This makes it easier to remove the plugwire or coil next time
DON'T FORGET TO INSPECT THE PLUWIRES OR IGNITION COILS.
You can gap platinums or iridiums if you use one of the squeezer tools now available. You may not have to, tho, because the factory gap may match your cars specs. Don't use those round gauges. Too rough. Use a good set of feeler gauges and gently insert into the gap. Don't use lubricant on the threads because it changes the torque specs. Also, make sure the engine is cold to avoid damaging soft aluminum engine threads.
As always excellent advice and execution of the right way to get the job done 👍🏽
He's so funny and enjoyable to watch another great video!
Antisieze isn't necessary unless you plan on not doing the install until years later and you can change gap on platinum and iridium's just need to be super careful. I got some ac delco double platinums that were all improperly gapped.
A well presented video aimed at the common Joe; with a lot of basic important pointers. Thank You.
if you dont have a spark plug socket, try a magnet on a telscoping stick thing if you have that so to not drop plug into the hole. OR use some paper to make the plug more snug in a regular hex socket
I use a little bit of electric tape on the lip of my socket to make it snug when lowering the spark plug onto the threads, same when pulling it out
If you use a quality spark plug (like NGK), there is absolutely no need for anti-seize. Quality metal plating keeps the plug from seizing. Proper tightening is also crucial. There is a chance of over torquing the spark plug and stretching the metal shell if anti-seize or any type of lubrication is applied. Metal shell stretching can decrease the heat transfer characteristics and can lead to pre-ignition. Too much anti-seize can also melt and drip down on the firing end insulator and cause fouling/misfire.
I have NGK Iridiums and yes you can check and change the gap.
I always use a piece of rubber hose to get the park plug in by hand then I use a regular socket
+@israel9294 Thanks for the feedback!
This was really informative!
Subscribed just because of this guy. Love the energy
#1 Common spark plug installation mistakes, even by technicians: Using Anti-Seize. Most plugs are already treated so don't screw around with the proper torque values.
Loved the overview. BUT need a video on getting change out from seatbelt
A slight bit of aluminum antisieze on the spark plug threads is a good idea if installing into aluminum heads. Steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals and electrolosis can occur making it difficult to remove the plugs later. Keep the antisieve on the threads and not on the sealing surface, this will insure a good ground for the plug.
Amen. On those recessed plugs down in a hole it is a good idea to unthread the plugs about one turn, then pull out the socket and use your air compressor to blow out any debris that might have settled in there since the last plug service. Then reset the socket and remove the plug the rest of the way. Dirt and dust can settle into the hole over time even if it looks like it was sealed.
Of course I love these guys 😂
Awesome video. Thank you. I forgot about the torque wrench, which I do have. 👍🏻🇺🇸
I like using 1ft 3\8 heater hose to put the plugs back in like when there in a hole like that
I agree with you. That method is very good!👍
I always use a light coat of antisieze with trifle or kroil and and run them in and out a couple times, until they are smooth, and hand torque them, tight, but not too tight
It is important to remember even on plugs that shouldn't be gapped, always obtain the manufacturers spec for the gap and check it before installing it. It could be damaged or incorrect.
Thank you guy’s!! Nice educational video !
I recently (yesterday) replaced the coil packs & plugs on my Honda Fit.
After replacing the first plug I couldn't get the coil in, it was sitting about half an inch above the other yet to be removed coil packs.
Thought I'd go onto the next cylinder and come back to it later,,,,,,,spark plug could undo but not pull out......
Yep....the little rubber insert in the spark plug socket had remained on the plug on the first one (which is why I couldn't get the coil pack in).
Put the rubber insert back in with glue (t7000 glue) and fitted the rest the next day no probs.
Running a treat now :)
+@Ulbre Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very good video. The guy is great and very entertaining.
Very good explanation of this topic! Thanks!
Len is always good for a few smiles 😄
It would be great to see you change spark plug #6 on a first generation Nissan Frontier. I've seen your how to videos of you guys working on an 02 or 03 Frontier. I don't remember a spark plug change. Great video thanks!
I’ve done it. Not easy, but with the right tools and patience it can be done.
So if you don't have a sparkplug socket, start the threads with the boot on the plug wires, it will slip instead of letting you cross thread it too. Always make a full turn backwards until you feel the threads make a slight clicking sound, when you hear it begin to tighten and you'll never cross thread anything again. It sucks to retap an aluminum head
Love the first clip at the beginning. People using an impact driver to push them plugs in as hard as they can as this crosses the threads like crazy. They did not thread them in first with their fingers then use a regular ratchet.
Yeah since the beginning of time I've always used anti seize from anything from my everyday crappy driver two or three hundred mile an hour funny car.... plus you left out one the most important tips you can give someone either backed him out or blow out the spark plug hole before they take that spark plug out of there lots of debris can fall down into the cylinder
awesome video
I like a rubber lined socket, and I use electrical tape to secure the socket to the extention, so when I remove it, I don't leave it stuck to the plug. Also the first time you pull the threads out of an aluminum head, is the last time you will install plugs without a dab of anti-sieze. 🤣
I'll remember these tips the next time I work on my veeracle.
Good times! Thanks for an educational and fun video!😂😂
nice
another great video of course
epic! SIMPLE - but all HUGELY important!
+atomicdmt Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you so much for this video متشکرم از شما آقای محترم
love this guy, best video
If I'm not having any misfires and otherwise everything feels and sounds alright, can preemptively changing my spark plugs still enhance my fuel economy?
Great info, as usual, Question do the spark plug cable need to be changed as well every time the plugs do?
No,modern plug wires are very long lasting
No, unless you were getting a misfire code or the coils are very old, there is no need to change them. Definitely not each time, that would get very expensive!
Most modern vehicles use platinum or iridium plugs which should be changed between 60K - 150K miles. If your car is in the upper range of the number (or higher), replacing the wires isn’t required but, it is a good idea. 150k - 200k++ I’d recommend replacing the coil packs as well. Especially if your getting a check engine light, reduced MPG and/or a misfire diagnostic code.
@@liquidsmokemustang1537 a misfire code can be cause by a lot of things. This does not necessarily means your plug wires are bad
On engines old enough that they still have distributors, yeah probably. Almost every car from the 2000s uses coil on plug, so it’s more of a wiring harness than individual spark plug wires. As somebody else already noted the coil packs will eventually wear out; but I just did my first spark plugs on the current car at 105K miles and the original coil packs are showing no problems
Also it's a good idea to crack the plug loose just a small amount then blow compressed air into the spark plug well hole so nothing goes in the engine.
+@PaulCTownsend Thanks for the feedback!
5:18 I just use Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool to insert spark plug2. I carefully deep the spark plug on the tip of this Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool, then start turning clockwise. If spark plug doesn't fit to thread right away it won't be forced. After couple of turns, I use a 5/8 or 16mm socket to finish the job.
i've definitely overdid it on tightening those things, lol
Great Info.
Well Said and Done 💯💯💯
Talk about doing this in the midwest when its 7 degrees and the back 3 are buriedbm under a ton of parts and you get them in and out blind by feel but your fingers are numb except for when you stab/slice your hand on all the sharp shit you force yourself between
Just use a large plastic straw to start the plug threads. It always works.
If you have a bending problem, just insert a dowel in the straw.
It's not just about gas mileage! You burn more fuel = more emissions, more carbonation, oil gets worse sooner, gpf gets clogged sooner, catalytic con.. you have an idea.. edit: my car had the platinum ones and i switched to iridium, no prob so.. you again have an idea
very informative, thank you!
Hahahahah you are the best you me laug so much u explan very easy thakns lot
감사합니다
My man you’re amazing 🤩
Thanks
Hello I torqued the spark plugs on my 2008 highlander to 18 ft pound instaed of 13 ft pound what shall I do. Thanks
Most morden spark plugs have a coating on the threads, anti size is not needed, anti size can work it's self down around the ground strap and short the spark, if you do use anti size use very little as possible, yes you can gap platinum and iridium plugs, proper spark gap is important for a engine to run efficient, over gap leads to power loss under engine load, using the right type of plug recommended by manufacturer no matter what the brand, and setting the right spark plug gap is important for a efficient running engine.
Should you avoid using a spark plug that has been dropped (let's say 4 feet onto concrete) even if the gap is still correct and the threads haven't been damaged?
You should make a video on how to change plugs on a Subaru EJ motor. It’s such a flippin pia.
I cross threaded one time and what I did to avoid having to rethread it with a tap and die is I got an old spark plug and I cut a v into on both sides and then I was able to start that one and then it rethreaded the hole.
+@MA-lm1ql Thanks for the feedback!
I had no idea that it was important to get the right type and size of spark plug for my engine. What a useful video!
I have DENSO iridium plugs and they can indeed be gapped
You can’t check the gap on Iridium NGK plugs?
Not sure about cars but on Cummins CNG engines the standard torque spec for spark plugs is 28 ft/lb.
Whoa I didnt know not to check the gap on Iridium plugs. Guess I wont do that again.
Anti-seize can also cause overtorquing of plugs, which can damage threads in the head.
Thank ya thank ya
Of course!!!!!👍🎯
What do you do when your car calls for .44 gap and you get your new Iridiums home and they are gapped at .40?
Nice job
Yeah, I gapped my Iridium spark plugs on my 2003 f150...Any mechanics have advice on Iridium spark plugs, and gapping them with wire gap tool??
Never seen MAGNETIC 🧲 SPARK PLUG SOCKET IN MY LIFE,NEVER HAVE HEARD OF ONE EITHER TILL NOW!! I've only seen them with foam inside for obvious reasons, another excellent idea!! Alot of people think they can put ANY KIND OF spark plug into ANY ENGINE,WRONG.
can i put little grease on sparkplug tread before installing it thank you
How’d you know I did all of this yesterday!? Including the ‘don’ts’!?!?!?
😂 the dramatic shots in this video
Twenty-year-old me would definitely try that at home.
Are you supposed to put dielectric grease into the spark plug wire boot?
Did my 08 f150 over the weekend. A few issues I ran into... The rubber in the spark plug socket came out with the plug a few times. How to avoid? Don't push the plug too hard into the socket. It should still hold with light pressure. Another thing which turned this tune up into a 2 day back breaking process was at some point in the history of the vehicle a rat had built a home on top of the motor and even after compressed air there were small black round seeds that found their way into the port and stuck around the base of the plug. Had to use a camera like the one in the video and a copper wire dipped in rtv silicone to extract each one painstakingly slowly and carefully. What a nightmare. But I got her done and she's purring like a kitten after changing all the ignition coils as well. Work slowly and patiently and you can do it.
+@davehildebrand38 Thanks for the feedback!
The honda manual says to use a "small amount" of anti seize...but youtube says no. What to do.
you can use a coin style gapper with platinum and iridium plugs as long as your careful...Plugs still have to gapped accordingly to manufacturers spec
Good video
How often should I change my spark plugs?
The problem is is when I actually tried to torque down my spark plugs it seemed like I was tightening them way too much before my torque wrench clicked on an 03 S10