Amazingly done Drew👍🏼 if you don't mind me asking how many hours did you have in the entire job? Again, the best mechanic I've ever seen, for sure!! Hope u c my comment.
Could have been catastrophic. Got to put a Billet flex plate. I had a transmission shop tell me my rear main seal was leaking. I told him hold the phone I shot over there showed them the drain hole. Seal wasnt leaking. Stopped them from putting a duralast rear main seal.
I wouldn’t do a bullet flexplate unless your throwing down a lot of power. No need in someone spending 5-600 on a billet when this factory one last 300k. I’ve never seen one hurt anything other than someone’s feelings. I didn’t tell him his main was leaking. I would have put one in my own truck. Just makes sense with over 300k on it. Just preventative.
@@davidmcnerney3048 most I see cracked are on stock style converters. I’ve never heard or seen the billet converter theory. But the real fix is a billet flexplate
@@coolblue4077 what’s your icp psi, icp volt, ipr %? Can you buzz the injectors to see if your idm is responding? Is your fuel bowl heater still intact and plugged in or is it already unplugged?
Truck had 320k miles on it. It happens from time to time on these. That flex plate has to hold up to alot of torque. The real full proof fix is a billet flexplate but not everyone wants to spend $500+ on one.
GREAT JOB.....VERY HELPFUL INFORMATION AS USUAL.....PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING.....
Thanks bud
Awesome job Andrew! I would drive from northern Indiana or tow my 97 I've been restoring to you, to work the bugs out. Rebuilt 7.3.
Excellent video sir 👍😁
Amazingly done Drew👍🏼 if you don't mind me asking how many hours did you have in the entire job? Again, the best mechanic I've ever seen, for sure!! Hope u c my comment.
Flex plate is 6.2 book hrs and I charged 1.9 hrs for up pipes and rear main.
Thank you!
👍
Could have been catastrophic. Got to put a Billet flex plate. I had a transmission shop tell me my rear main seal was leaking. I told him hold the phone I shot over there showed them the drain hole. Seal wasnt leaking. Stopped them from putting a duralast rear main seal.
I wouldn’t do a bullet flexplate unless your throwing down a lot of power. No need in someone spending 5-600 on a billet when this factory one last 300k. I’ve never seen one hurt anything other than someone’s feelings. I didn’t tell him his main was leaking. I would have put one in my own truck. Just makes sense with over 300k on it. Just preventative.
Im under the impression the billet cover converters f up the OE Flex Plates.
@@davidmcnerney3048 most I see cracked are on stock style converters. I’ve never heard or seen the billet converter theory. But the real fix is a billet flexplate
Need some help with my 7.3 wait to start not coming on
Do you have a crank no start or no crank?
@@AutomedicGarage crank no start
@@coolblue4077 what’s your icp psi, icp volt, ipr %? Can you buzz the injectors to see if your idm is responding? Is your fuel bowl heater still intact and plugged in or is it already unplugged?
@@AutomedicGarage
Looks like my programmer is not letting the wait to start light come on not sure what I need to do to fix that
@@coolblue4077 have you unplugged the fuel bowl heater
Привет из России. Блять, почему эта пластина треснула? Просчет инженеров форд? Может надо больше стали!...?
Truck had 320k miles on it. It happens from time to time on these. That flex plate has to hold up to alot of torque. The real full proof fix is a billet flexplate but not everyone wants to spend $500+ on one.
Pro source Diesel has oem rear main seal kit they call it. Comes with navistar t442 rtv. 94-03.
Correct, I just can’t get it same day when I’m working on someone’s truck. I think Felpro is just as good and it’s half the price.