Cheaper than a Maaco job, and seems to hold up a little better too! About 3 years ago I did a hood and both sides below the body side molding on a beater Cougar I have, and it has held up about the same as your Camaro. A buddy of mine did his whole 90s F150 with it with similar results as well. For a beater or something that you just want it to look decent for a couple years, the turbo can is hard to beat!
For a budget option I think this is pretty decent. I would definitely do it on my road race only car. On a daily I'd do some clear over the top to retain the shine. All things considered though, I think this held up well.
I painted a 75 Monza with black Krylon years ago. Turned out really nice and I didn’t even cut and buff but I kept it waxed. Drove it for about a year and then after sitting in the salvage yard for 2 years it still looked decent. It weather checked under the color in the areas where it was primered but not the other areas. This was in El Paso so constant sun.
the paint didn't last because it was left out in the elements with no protection. Anyone watching this, 2k clear is expensive by the can if you buy enough to clear a whole car. You can use 2k clear, sand it with 2000 grit paper and buff it. Or if you really do a good job and do it inside, you won't need to sand it because there will be no orange peel.
I thought 2 k clear doesn't adhere well to rustoleum oil based spray paint and in fact, acts as a paint thinner causing it to bubble up and break down?🤔
@@compound00 search for rustoleum 2k, and you'll see a bunch of videos. Or texashondachannel is the OG. I learned how to paint with cans from him. I will admit that one time, I used a silver metallic and put 2k after. It did not last a week before started to peel right off. 2k should work fine if the paint is gloss finish. I love 2k especially when applied indoors in good weather conditions.
@@compound00if you let it dry really good like 3months or so then paint boiling should not be problem if you spray 2k clear coat on these 1k spray paints
@@compound00i did a whole car in rustoleum gallon paint from home depot with a decent automotive clear nothing crazy maybe 80-100 a gallon an about 3 years later still looks like a professional paint job
My Thunderbird was pretty rusty when I found it so I used high temp engine clear. Wet sanded, polished and waxed out. It lasted for five years without any issues. It’s the car in the icon pic. I’m going to redo it again this year with some 2K clear hopefully that’ll hold up for quite a few years more than the high temp engine clear..
I sanded this product, it came off in one place where the paint wasn’t applied to primer and where it wasn’t applied evenly. Where I used deluxe etched primer it appears to be very solid and sanded really well.
your next video on this car should be about knocking off that oxidation. I would really like to see you guys wet sand the opposite side with 5K grit paper only the side that was not sanded last time. then buff the whole car with a wool pad and heavy duty rubbing compound followed with a foam pad and some swirl remover. then apply the best available ceramic coating you guys can find..... yeah buddy... how bout dat
Paint holds up better and remains shiny if 2 or 3 coats of clear are applied at the time it is painted. Also, do not sand and buff spray can paint or clearcoat. The only time you sand and buff is when top quality paint is used but definitely not when using rattlecan paint... just a quick fyi.. but hey that looked pretty good for just rattle can paint job.😊
The sanding and buffing made it look better. It faded because its rattle can not because of the buff job. Only one side was sanded and buffed. Both faded. Did you even watch?
If you paint a vehicle with rustolium oil base enamel, you do not have to clear coat it at all, just keep your vehicle washed and waxed and your good to go. I would advise buying the gallon rustolium and use a spray gun to apply it. ( a billion times better results than a spray can)
Spray cans are singke stage u shouldn't wet sand them if your going to use a single stage paint then sand its shine off and clear coat it you should have started out with flat paint.
I'm going to spray my truck and saw your comment. If its single stage paint then should let paint dry and cure and dry sand it instead of wet? And after I clear coat do I leave it alone or then also wet sand yhe clear coat a bit? Thanks
Thanks for sharing. I live in Canada and body men even retired think they should be paid like brain surgeons. Pretty pathetic that nobody wants to work.
I want to spray my old truck with the rastoleum turbo can, to make the job last should I scuff sand the existing paint then use the new spray paint when it dries wet sand and then apply 2k? Do I wet sand after 2k coat as well?
Wait --- what happens if you buff it out, the whole car??? Dont leave us with a cliff hanger, show us what this paint does after you do give it some love and buff it.... The paint is holding up; ;better than clear coat, no chips or such, so how about a buff job and see what it looks like if someone actually took care of the car and buffed it.....
It was a package on top of the Z28 package and it stood for International Race of Champions. Promoted as an American-motorsports equivalent of an all-star game. Despite its name, the IROC was primarily associated with North American oval track racing. Drivers raced identically-prepared stock cars set up by a single team of mechanics in an effort to make the race purely a test of driver ability. It was run with a small field of 12 invited drivers
@@MakeHotRoddingGreatAgain Well that’s why it looks like it does… Doesn’t hold up over time and loses glossy wet look.. Waste of time. Protect your work.
Cheaper than a Maaco job, and seems to hold up a little better too! About 3 years ago I did a hood and both sides below the body side molding on a beater Cougar I have, and it has held up about the same as your Camaro. A buddy of mine did his whole 90s F150 with it with similar results as well. For a beater or something that you just want it to look decent for a couple years, the turbo can is hard to beat!
Nows a good time for a 600 wet sand, one more coat of black then top coat with 2 coats of 2k clear (with hardener)
Then it’ll have that wet look
1500 with sand
For a budget option I think this is pretty decent. I would definitely do it on my road race only car. On a daily I'd do some clear over the top to retain the shine. All things considered though, I think this held up well.
Try fine compounding an area. The old single stage enamels chalked up over time and came back beautifully when polished.
I painted a 75 Monza with black Krylon years ago. Turned out really nice and I didn’t even cut and buff but I kept it waxed. Drove it for about a year and then after sitting in the salvage yard for 2 years it still looked decent. It weather checked under the color in the areas where it was primered but not the other areas. This was in El Paso so constant sun.
They now have a turbo clear coat. Should try the turbo clear and buff and polish
Id like to see the results of another compound and polish after 2yrs. If you can bring that shine back, that would be amazing
Better off with a light sanding and just clear coat it now. 2k clear would make it last another 10 years without having to do anything to it.
Holy smokes I remember watching this! Great video👍
the paint didn't last because it was left out in the elements with no protection. Anyone watching this, 2k clear is expensive by the can if you buy enough to clear a whole car. You can use 2k clear, sand it with 2000 grit paper and buff it. Or if you really do a good job and do it inside, you won't need to sand it because there will be no orange peel.
I thought 2 k clear doesn't adhere well to rustoleum oil based spray paint and in fact, acts as a paint thinner causing it to bubble up and break down?🤔
@@compound00 search for rustoleum 2k, and you'll see a bunch of videos. Or texashondachannel is the OG. I learned how to paint with cans from him. I will admit that one time, I used a silver metallic and put 2k after. It did not last a week before started to peel right off. 2k should work fine if the paint is gloss finish. I love 2k especially when applied indoors in good weather conditions.
@@compound00if you let it dry really good like 3months or so then paint boiling should not be problem if you spray 2k clear coat on these 1k spray paints
@@compound00i did a whole car in rustoleum gallon paint from home depot with a decent automotive clear nothing crazy maybe 80-100 a gallon an about 3 years later still looks like a professional paint job
Please upload some results!
Wow..turned out nice boys!
Nice love the job you are doing well here 👍
I wonder if it would have held up better if you put clear coat over the spray paint
Rustoleum jobs are my favorite. Nomatter where i am at in America i can find perfect match touch up paint within 5min
My Thunderbird was pretty rusty when I found it so I used high temp engine clear. Wet sanded, polished and waxed out. It lasted for five years without any issues. It’s the car in the icon pic. I’m going to redo it again this year with some 2K clear hopefully that’ll hold up for quite a few years more than the high temp engine clear..
I sanded this product, it came off in one place where the paint wasn’t applied to primer and where it wasn’t applied evenly. Where I used deluxe etched primer it appears to be very solid and sanded really well.
What, no clear coat at all ? If yes it seems pretty darn good ! A quality automotive clearcoat would have enhanced and kept the sheen !
Ficou show de bola
You got 2 options now. 1. Polish and ceramic coating. 2. Wet sand with 800 and 2k clear afterwards
I bet it'd still look good now if you'd clear coated it too
your next video on this car should be about knocking off that oxidation. I would really like to see you guys wet sand the opposite side with 5K grit paper only the side that was not sanded last time. then buff the whole car with a wool pad and heavy duty rubbing compound followed with a foam pad and some swirl remover. then apply the best available ceramic coating you guys can find..... yeah buddy... how bout dat
Mais é uma pintura sensacional
Did a good job those two years on holding up...but you should go ahead and clear it now lol🤷🏾♂️
There's no hardener in rattle cans. Needs a clear top coat with hardener to stay glossy. Will look "wet" when dry
Esprei é um resultado positivo pra todos quem gosta realmente de esprei
Paint holds up better and remains shiny if 2 or 3 coats of clear are applied at the time it is painted. Also, do not sand and buff spray can paint or clearcoat. The only time you sand and buff is when top quality paint is used but definitely not when using rattlecan paint... just a quick fyi.. but hey that looked pretty good for just rattle can paint job.😊
The sanding and buffing made it look better. It faded because its rattle can not because of the buff job. Only one side was sanded and buffed. Both faded. Did you even watch?
@@mcphonemack5121lol exactly
Does it leave a orange peel
I watched and it , and faded mostly because u didn’t use clear. I’m sure it would’ve faded regardless but not so bad. Either way, good job 👏
If you buffed it with a polishing compound it would take that oxidation out im sure.
Should have sprayed a couple coats of clear! It would still look good
For the price, absolutely!
For rattle can job... looks good to me!
Clearing would have helped. Thanks!
It's just oxidized, should be able to compound it back out to a glossy finish.
I got a 85. Gonna do the same thing
With the outdoor space you have you definitely can try you hand at a real paint setup. Painting in the garage is deadly.
I looks pretty good still, if you waxxed it it would probably still shine.
Any plans to shoot it with a 2K clear? I've had to do some scratch and dent repairs in the past, and the rattle can 2K's work really well.
If you paint a vehicle with rustolium oil base enamel, you do not have to clear coat it at all, just keep your vehicle washed and waxed and your good to go. I would advise buying the gallon rustolium and use a spray gun to apply it. ( a billion times better results than a spray can)
@@hotrodpawnshow much would all that cost ?
@@hotrodpawns main reason i and others use rattle cans is because compressors are a bajillion dollars
Held up well considering….
If you want a significantly higher jump in durability, use a catalyst (hardener)with the liquid rustoleum and a spray gun...
Maybe wet sand it again and grab some cans of 2k clear to protect it. I plan on doing that when I do mine.
So wet sand the old paint a little to scuff it up then spray the paint and wet sand AFTER clear coat or just after paint before clear coat?
If you put clear coat on it right after you painted it would last years
Thats what I'm saying. These videos aren't giving the best of impressions when using cans. idk. Maybe Im biased. lol.
Can’t do that in Chicago,they banned the sale of spray paint in order to “Stop graffiti”. And of course we don’t have graffiti anymore!😂😂😂
YOU HAVE TO CLEAR COAT IT (OR CERAMIC COAT IT) SO IT LAST A LONG TIME. lol. 2k Clear always. Blows my mind.
Did you add clearcoat or just polish it?
Just polished it no clear coat.
@@GM_Junky was there a reason in particular? is it a special paint that does not require clearcoat?
@@danielvalenzuela8414 no, we just didn't put any on, I would think it would help out a bunch if it did have it.
I’d like to see what happens if you polish it again
You pain it how many minutes o hours need to eay to do the clear
Honestly, some cans of 2k clear could have saved that paint much longer
Be cool if you polished it then ceramic coated it. Then keep giving yearly updates.
Redo the paint again. This time clear it and ceramic coat it
I bet now you could put some Penetrol on it and it would look new again
2 and a half years later of course it doesnt shine anymore. All the wax is gone. Rewax it
Was it just sitting? Or was it daily driven? 🤔
This was just sitting.
@@GM_Junky then I guess a daily driven car might not make it that long
Rust-Oleum has almost no UV inhibitors it starts to fade in about 6 months in full sun. If it had UV inhibitors it would be 10X better product.
All it needed was some clear coat
It's cheap spray can paint. It doesn't have hardener, you get what you pay for with paint for sure.
Spray cans are singke stage u shouldn't wet sand them if your going to use a single stage paint then sand its shine off and clear coat it you should have started out with flat paint.
I'm going to spray my truck and saw your comment. If its single stage paint then should let paint dry and cure and dry sand it instead of wet? And after I clear coat do I leave it alone or then also wet sand yhe clear coat a bit? Thanks
was there clear on there? just wondering .
No clear on it.
@GM_Junky Thanks for reply. Wonder if they make a clear product? also the results of that.
Thanks for sharing. I live in Canada and body men even retired think they should be paid like brain surgeons. Pretty pathetic that nobody wants to work.
Yes I would do it
Would last a long time if it was clear coated with a good automotive clear
I’m not a paint or body guy but bro held that can to close
3 coats of 2K cleacoat and buff. It will last for 10 years or more
I want to spray my old truck with the rastoleum turbo can, to make the job last should I scuff sand the existing paint then use the new spray paint when it dries wet sand and then apply 2k? Do I wet sand after 2k coat as well?
just need clear coat
It needs a clear coat
Should of did 2k clear on that
Yep would of held shine
Wash and wax every MONTH and it will look better every time
Wait --- what happens if you buff it out, the whole car???
Dont leave us with a cliff hanger, show us what this paint does after you do give it some love and buff it....
The paint is holding up; ;better than clear coat, no chips or such, so how about a buff job and see what it looks like if someone actually took care of the car and buffed it.....
Any body know dale difrend color only see black brown and white Gray tray fine it red or blue turbo no bidy got it thank any bidy now
Pintei meu carro todo nos esprei não sei quanto gastei
why are these cars called iroc
I think that's just what people remember most about them.
It was a package on top of the Z28 package and it stood for International Race of Champions. Promoted as an American-motorsports equivalent of an all-star game. Despite its name, the IROC was primarily associated with North American oval track racing. Drivers raced identically-prepared stock cars set up by a single team of mechanics in an effort to make the race purely a test of driver ability. It was run with a small field of 12 invited drivers
Bro clear it man wtf.
I call BS you wet sanding and buff, it's thin spray paint no clear. Your cut pad would rip a non catalyze base right off
Yea, NO.
Meh
No clear coat lol waste of time and energy
Oil enamel doesn’t need clear coat like modern car paint.
@@MakeHotRoddingGreatAgain Well that’s why it looks like it does… Doesn’t hold up over time and loses glossy wet look.. Waste of time. Protect your work.
it looks like crap wtf