Nice Video, thank you. The only thing i would do different is, greasing up the Impellerschaft before reinstalling it. That helps to prevent corrosion going on. Also a good thing is to use a Impeller with a Nyloninlet instead of Brass. The Brass corrodes away the Steel, same princip as the anode on your steelboat. Also a good thing is to grease up the Bolts with some water resistant Marine Grade grease.
@@WiscoBoater This Video also works for the Honda BH50 5hp Motor. I took mine apart and it was simmilar to this. Somebody changed the impeller of my Motor, but he forgot to clean the fresh water Channel under the Pump, beyond the baseplate of the Pump i found 50% of the old impeller. So the Motor sucked Water and pumped, teel tale was there, but no water was getting to the Head. With cleaned Pump it does a constant Tell Tale an u can touch the Valve Cover while running.
Thanks for putting this video together. I have my late father’s B75 that he bought in 1977. He sold the boat in ‘82 and kept the motor, in a cupboard, until he passed away in 2017. I just got around to getting it running again. Some issues getting things loosened up & lubricated again (the clamp screws were solid!). I had to take the carb off & clean it out - some serious muck in the bowl & the idle jet was blocked. Just the air hose was enough to sort that. Put it back together & it started second pull & ran like a sewing machine. I will be replacing the impeller though - at 44 years old I think it’s earned retirement!
Awesome video! The best video out there! I just picked up a 7.5HP and it’s not even dribbling anymore. I got to pick up an impeller then I should be good to go! Thanks again for this video!
Half way thru... Ya done good, bud. I kin understand every word! And it's nice and slow (unlike yer choice of background moosick)... Hey I'm 78 and KNOW where the volume knob is!!! and I still like Tangerine Dream after many years in late night raddio.. Ennyway, the vid is A BIG help... T'would be nice to know where to get a PDF of a manual... I just picked up an '84 7.5 and have found unlike when it was new that parts may be a hard come- by and also the repair books too... Well back to the video last half... Tanks for sharing!!! Also, The zip tie trick is good to remember! As an old time mech, I probly woulda spent more time on the shaft and a different method of removing the impeller, but yer methods are yer methods. Always good to grease up the shaft after massaging it with a bit of 320 w/d paper to prevent future degradation... Nonetheless, I reinforce what I said previously and I didn't have to learn a new foreign language or buy an electronic translator OR slow the video to 50% of normal speed jest to keep up!!! Thanks again!
Nice video, man. Thanks for the how-to. Trust me, I know what you're saying on the folks who make their videos on a potato. I try to offer decent content that will help people with very specific DIY instruction. Thanks again!
Hopefully you change the thermostat also. I do both at the same time. Great well done video. There’s a UA-cam video that shows how to fix your idle issue if you’re still having that. Thanks
i've got a BF100 80's Hard to start no water output, pulled .the flywheel sanded the contacts .new plugs, cleaned the main jet , new fuel filter checked all fuel lines . Going to fix the water re circulation problem. Whats next?... A new motor? Great video! 👍 GO NINERS!
Fuel filter/pump is what I would look at next. For the water circulation, check/change the thermostat, super easy to do on these. Glad you liked the video! GO PACK GO!!😁
Wire wheel will do wonders on that shaft, do not wire wheel the surface where the lower seal rides on the shaft. A thin coat of grease before you reinstall the shaft is easier on the seal as well. I found that Wet Tire works amazing on impellers, it conditions them before you install it and makes them slick as owl shit when it's time to slip it back into the pump cup.
Great video 🎉 I have a Honda 9.9 hp I ran it out of the water to drain gas out of the carb and it ran for like 2 minutes. I’m pretty sure I smoked the impeller
Hi Guy, Your video is Very helpful...I am trying to change the impeller on a BF6B..exactly the same as your video. I am a bit worried with the pin upside in the engine. This kind of system is really awful.
Glad you like the vid and found it helpful...that's all I'm trying to do. I'm no expert, but putting what I learn out there seems to be of value sometimes.Yeah that pin...high frustration factor there.
Great video, was able to do the impeller and the housing. Had to figure out the shift linkage because it pulled out of the lower , but I got it with some research. I would like to see a video about water and oil mixture here. I’m having that problem now, and of course there’s a bad video on it. Lol
hi I am just read your post, i have just changed the impellor on my new to me b100, had to do some chemical metal rebuilding whilst i was in there also but i am hoping that will cure the water in the gear oil issue asbwell, fingers crossed. I am having a hellova time trying to sort the gears out. i cant get reverse when its all put back together, the shift rod is free moving and when separated from the main engine unit and seems to find all 3 positions when i push the rod manually. is that what happened to yours? im baffled i have taken it on and off a few times now but am feeling like the old saying about trying the same thing over and over and expecting a different result being a sign of madness is very much a truth lol. anyway if you can help or offer some moral support i would be very grateful - thanks :)
Thanks for this video!!! Very informative, Probably saved me couple hundred also. How can i use some air pressure to make sure water tube is clear. What i assumed was the intake appears to be the exhaust, Now am going to look closer to find the intake. May be plugged. Boat sat in the weeds for couple years. Motor started and runs but was afraid to run too long for fear of burning up motor.
Awesome! The water intake is under the cavitation plate by the prop. I'd recommend using air through the water ejection port (right side of the lower engine cowl). You'll likely need to remove the thermostat to blow air through it tho.
.mazin thanks. I wasnt sure id get it off as it was pretty siezed- they weren't keen to try at the boatyard so I thought id give it a go, your vid defo helped my confidence. I have a small crack in my housing which they wanted to replace but its no worse than the ones on yours so i dont think i'll bother.My shaft is way more corroded than yours but im gonna stuff it with grease and itll be grand. I think youve just helped me save a couple hundred quid in parts and labour. :) :)
@@WiscoBoater do you use a gasket sealer as well as the gaskets? I have had to build up the ring around the bearing/seal on the gear housing with chemical metal as it was pretty corroded. Im guessing this is where the water was getting into the gear oil. it was only a tiny hole but as i was cleaning it it was just crumbling away. its looking pretty flush with the plate but i think gasket seal woulkd be a good idea?
@@nicolaryder4757 I reused the gasket that was there as it was fairly new still. Form-a-gasket would probably work well around just the area of corrosion, in addition to a new or reused gasket. I wouldn't use the sealer all the way around, but should work around the corroded area.
@@WiscoBoater i am stuck. i cant get reverse gear. I have taken the bottom off and on a few times. i feel like the shift rod (which is threaded) is too long. i took the selector assembly out and the piece the rod connects with has got a thread inside. I didnt actually take it apart the boat yard did so i thought possibly what i needed to do was attempt to take up some of the slack by threading it on which was very fiddly, i know yours just slipped in but i didnt know what else to try. btw the shift is definitely free and the rod will find the 3 positions manually when separate from the main body. So after threading the bar on a few turns and putting it all back together i did actually have all 3 positions on the selector....... until that is i filled it with oil :( at which point i threw in the towel and had a couple ciders. hope you dont mind me messaging again, not sure what to do next. I dont want to give up on it
@@nicolaryder4757 I have to start by saying that I'm not an engine mechanic...just an avid boater that loves DIY, but are you saying that the pin that connects the shift lever to the cam that actuates the rod has threads? On this motor that I had (I've since sold it), all of the connections were pins with a cotter pin to secure it to the cam pin can "swivel" when the cam is moved. Is the shift rod (long rod that goes down through the housing to the lower unit) still seated in the lower unit? What was fill with oil? Lower unit?
After loosing the "pain in the ass" linkage bolt twice, I usesd some Fishing Line to secure it.. Saves time and nerves.. After Installation just ripp of the Fishingline.. Hope that helps someone..
Hello friend, first of all congratulations for the perfect explanation video. don't take my bad english I live in Brazil I have an engine from this few years during the video you show the service manual of this engine I have already looked for it here in Brazil and I would never find any possibility for you to send me a copy or some site that may be buying the same since here became impossible. thank you in advance and congratulations for the youtube channel.
Thank you very much! I have the same outboard engine, Honda bf100. Please, can you also make a video (or maybe explain) about how to change the propeller? Is it easy? Thank you again.
You’re welcome! I don’t have this motor anymore, but removing the prop is super easy. Remove the cotter pin, pull the cone retainer off, slide the prop pin out, off it comes. 👍🏻
Thanks for posting this! I just bought a 12' v hull with a 1983 Honda b100s, so your videos are super helpful! I do have one question: When I'm working on it on a stand and am running fuel to it from a regular 2.5 gallon gas container, does that gas container need to be sealed, like the standard 6.5 gallon tank it came with? (the 6.5 gallon tank it came with had several cracks!) Will it matter that the gas line is just sitting in the container? Hope that makes sense! Thank you!!
Your videos are great! Inspiring for the diy kind of guy. Can you help direct me where I can find out what year my Honda four stroke is and where I can find authentic Honda motor repair/installation manuals?
I'm not sure exactly how to read the serial numbers to get a year of manufacture, but the manuals are available online if you search for a Honda B100. I think it's the same manual for the 7.5hp as well. It will have a green-ish colored cover with red lettering.
Any idea where to get parts for the older Honda outboards? I have a 1975 b75 that runs perfect but water pump quit pumping. Took awhile but finally got lower unit separated and the water pump got messed up in the process.... the keyway pin pulled thru metal part inside pump... thanks
Thanks for making this, I just bought one of these (from 1984) and am working on getting her running again. Did you get your diagrams online, or did the previous owner put that binder together for you?
Really good video. I would have liked seeing you put the pin back into the top of the shifting rod! Its quite hard to do and I'm wondering if there are any moves you can do to make it easier? Thanks for the video, it really helped me!
Glad you liked the video and it helped!! Yeah, I wish I would have had a way to show that, but every angle I tried, my hands would block what I was doing. With the shifter in the forward position, I used needle nose pliers with tape on them to keep the pin from falling out of the pliers and losing it down the shaft cover, and then wiggled the shifter back and forth to line up the holes. That part wasn't all that bad, but getting the cotter pin in was a PITA.
Several reasons for no water to look at…tube seals, blocked water jacket passage, stuck thermostat, impeller fins backwards…I’ve seen mud dauber nests in the rubber discharge tubing. I’m an amateur just like most…keep checking possibilities.
@@WiscoBoater tube seals, as in the seal where the lower unit tube meets the tube in the mud section of the outboard? I also believe the impeller fines are in the right direction. They’re clockwise but I’ll have to double check. Coming out of the block is a tube, that tube then runs to the other side of the block where the thermostat is. I talked to a guy and he said if I unhooked the tube, and still didn’t see any water coming out, then it’s a problem with the impeller so then I replaced it and still no water. After replacing the impeller, I took the lower unit back off and used compressed air to check for the pathway around the impeller and got a bunch of old rubber from the last impeller out, I was confident that was the issue, installed everything back and still no water
@@grant1109 I’m learning as I go as well, but with old rubber pieces in the tube, there could definitely be rubber pieces in the water jacket around the cylinders, and even the rubber overboard tube on the port side of the engine. Easiest thing to check is that rubber overboard tube. If there is blockage in the water jacket, that’s harder to clear.
I dropped by pin down that opening .. I used a bolt , but I can’t get the gear shifter to go reverse. Without the bolt it has full range of motion . Also if in reverse or neutral should you be able to raise rpm’s / via throttle? On mine the mechanism is blocked It’s only clear in forward Thx
Hello. Enjoyed your video on the Honda 10hp b100 impeller replacement. Would you happen to know the part number of the impeller or is it available as a kit with the plastic cover, key for keyway, gasket and I was under the impression there was a o-ring somewhere? Thanks
Hey man I just bought an older Honda 10hp b100. I have a problem with it not idling and even revving while on neutral. It also doesn’t stop when I click the stop button and have to pull choke to shut it off. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
The most common idle issue with these old Honda’s is a partially clogged main jet. Sometimes they’ll start, but won’t idle. Other things to check are the float, bowl gasket, and fuel pump. Unlikely the fuel pump unless the diaphragm has ruptured. I skipped all that and just put a new carb on it. That video will be out next Thursday. Runs like a top now. The stop button is a simple spark interrupter or current interrupter. When you press the button, it closes to ground and shuts off spark at the coil. There are only two wires, one to the coil, and one to chassis ground. Remove the boots and check connections. If those are good, the issue is inside the coil, or the button switch isn’t closing.
I am replacing the impeller. Got the impeller on the shaft but cannot get the shaft to drop into the lower gears. Is there a trick to this? Do I need to turn something to line it up?
Man...it's been a minute since I did this, and I haven't owned that engine for a couple of years now...but I did open the lower unit to inspect it, and there are components that wear out in there that could be part of the issue. The gears have to be in neutral also, if I recall correctly. I don't remember if you can turn the prop shaft to get the gears to line up...and I wouldn't recommend doing that without consulting someone who really does know. Wish I could help you further...I just don't remember all the details of the lower unit being several years ago when I did it.
Totally agree with the condition of the old impeller, but to each his own. I've always operated boat engines with the mindset of if I have the new part, the new part goes in regardless of the condition of the part that comes out. If the part is still good, it goes in to the spares or emergency use box. Thanks for watching!
Also can you make a video on how to tilt the motor please? I have a hard time lowering the motor, it has a metal bar that goes into these grooves and I can’t take it out of the groove without lifting it and moving the metal bar to a lower groove
Got the impeller replaced and everything put back together but now i can't shift into reverse. Is there a certain position the shifting rod has to be in and does it need to line up somewhere with the shifting lever? It goes forward, neutral and tries to go into reverse but it cant get over the hump (the shifting rod doesnt go down far enough)
Leaving my original comment for future people, fixed it but putting it all back together including the shift linkage but manually turning the propeller while trying to shift into neutral and it finally went.
I just picked up one of the Honda 10 horse and it is stuck in neutral, will not go into forward or reverse. Do you have any idea as to what it could be ? Thanks John.
Hi John, these engines won't let the gear shift leave neutral if the throttle is in the 'Start' position with the engine off so there is no chance of starting the motor with it in gear. I would check the throttle cable for a break or if it isn't in the correct position.
I don't have this engine anymore, and I don't remember the format, but there is a ton of resources online to decode Honda outboard serial numbers. Sorry I can't help with this at this point.
You just spin the driveshaft with a little molly on the Impeller and water pump housing. That zip tie method is nonsense mkay. You can put the lower in gear and spin the prop so driveshaft rotates clockwise.
In 1987 or 88 when everyone went to prop horsepower rating instead of some manufacturers being flywheel hp and the rest prop hp Honda b100 became the grey 8hp
Nice Video, thank you. The only thing i would do different is, greasing up the Impellerschaft before reinstalling it. That helps to prevent corrosion going on. Also a good thing is to use a Impeller with a Nyloninlet instead of Brass. The Brass corrodes away the Steel, same princip as the anode on your steelboat. Also a good thing is to grease up the Bolts with some water resistant Marine Grade grease.
Excellent points! Thank you for adding that information, I appreciate it!
@@WiscoBoater This Video also works for the Honda BH50 5hp Motor. I took mine apart and it was simmilar to this.
Somebody changed the impeller of my Motor, but he forgot to clean the fresh water Channel under the Pump, beyond the baseplate of the Pump i found 50% of the old impeller. So the Motor sucked Water and pumped, teel tale was there, but no water was getting to the Head. With cleaned Pump it does a constant Tell Tale an u can touch the Valve Cover while running.
@@florianborkenhagen9434 aslo works for BF8A and BF6B....same system with a pin to remove in the engine.
Where do you recommend getting the impeller part with the nylon instead of the brass ? Also do you have a part number
Thanks for putting this video together. I have my late father’s B75 that he bought in 1977. He sold the boat in ‘82 and kept the motor, in a cupboard, until he passed away in 2017. I just got around to getting it running again. Some issues getting things loosened up & lubricated again (the clamp screws were solid!). I had to take the carb off & clean it out - some serious muck in the bowl & the idle jet was blocked. Just the air hose was enough to sort that. Put it back together & it started second pull & ran like a sewing machine. I will be replacing the impeller though - at 44 years old I think it’s earned retirement!
That is SUPER COOL that you have the motor and getting it running. I love hearing things like this. Your dad would be proud, I'm sure!
Great video, good step by step, this was a long time coming.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
5 stars. I've been waiting since 2019 for someone to make a video for this motor
Glad you liked the video, and I hope it helped!
Mine wasn’t pushing water anymore, took it apart and turns out the impeller is in pieces. Great video finally gonna get my engine running great!
Awesome!! Glad the video helped you out! That was my intent with this one.
Awesome video! The best video out there! I just picked up a 7.5HP and it’s not even dribbling anymore. I got to pick up an impeller then I should be good to go! Thanks again for this video!
Awesome!! You’re welcome!
thank you i would have had zero ideas where this pump would have been greatly appreciate the help
Awesome! Glad the video helped you out!
Half way thru... Ya done good, bud. I kin understand every word! And it's nice and slow (unlike yer choice of background moosick)... Hey I'm 78 and KNOW where the volume knob is!!! and I still like Tangerine Dream after many years in late night raddio.. Ennyway, the vid is A BIG help... T'would be nice to know where to get a PDF of a manual... I just picked up an '84 7.5 and have found unlike when it was new that parts may be a hard come- by and also the repair books too... Well back to the video last half... Tanks for sharing!!! Also, The zip tie trick is good to remember! As an old time mech, I probly woulda spent more time on the shaft and a different method of removing the impeller, but yer methods are yer methods. Always good to grease up the shaft after massaging it with a bit of 320 w/d paper to prevent future degradation... Nonetheless, I reinforce what I said previously and I didn't have to learn a new foreign language or buy an electronic translator OR slow the video to 50% of normal speed jest to keep up!!! Thanks again!
Thanks Dee! Glad the video was helpful!👍🏻👍🏻😎
Nice video, man. Thanks for the how-to. Trust me, I know what you're saying on the folks who make their videos on a potato. I try to offer decent content that will help people with very specific DIY instruction. Thanks again!
Hopefully you change the thermostat also. I do both at the same time. Great well done video. There’s a UA-cam video that shows how to fix your idle issue if you’re still having that. Thanks
i've got a BF100 80's Hard to start no water output, pulled .the flywheel sanded the contacts .new plugs, cleaned the main jet , new fuel filter checked all fuel lines . Going to fix the water re circulation problem. Whats next?... A new motor?
Great video! 👍
GO NINERS!
Fuel filter/pump is what I would look at next. For the water circulation, check/change the thermostat, super easy to do on these. Glad you liked the video! GO PACK GO!!😁
Wire wheel will do wonders on that shaft, do not wire wheel the surface where the lower seal rides on the shaft. A thin coat of grease before you reinstall the shaft is easier on the seal as well. I found that Wet Tire works amazing on impellers, it conditions them before you install it and makes them slick as owl shit when it's time to slip it back into the pump cup.
Thanks alot for helping us out!
Well done. Very helpful. Thank you.
Great video 🎉
I have a Honda 9.9 hp
I ran it out of the water to drain gas out of the carb and it ran for like 2 minutes. I’m pretty sure I smoked the impeller
Yowza. 😳
Hi Guy,
Your video is Very helpful...I am trying to change the impeller on a BF6B..exactly the same as your video. I am a bit worried with the pin upside in the engine. This kind of system is really awful.
Glad you like the vid and found it helpful...that's all I'm trying to do. I'm no expert, but putting what I learn out there seems to be of value sometimes.Yeah that pin...high frustration factor there.
Nice Video, thank you.
Thanks,that was a great help.
Great video, was able to do the impeller and the housing. Had to figure out the shift linkage because it pulled out of the lower , but I got it with some research.
I would like to see a video about water and oil mixture here. I’m having that problem now, and of course there’s a bad video on it. Lol
Glad you liked the video...I do the repair vids as I need them, so if I have the need to tear down a lower unit, I will certainly make a video!
hi I am just read your post, i have just changed the impellor on my new to me b100, had to do some chemical metal rebuilding whilst i was in there also but i am hoping that will cure the water in the gear oil issue asbwell, fingers crossed. I am having a hellova time trying to sort the gears out. i cant get reverse when its all put back together, the shift rod is free moving and when separated from the main engine unit and seems to find all 3 positions when i push the rod manually. is that what happened to yours? im baffled i have taken it on and off a few times now but am feeling like the old saying about trying the same thing over and over and expecting a different result being a sign of madness is very much a truth lol. anyway if you can help or offer some moral support i would be very grateful - thanks :)
Thanks for this video!!! Very informative, Probably saved me couple hundred also. How can i use some air pressure to make sure water tube is clear. What i assumed was the intake appears to be the exhaust, Now am going to look closer to find the intake. May be plugged. Boat sat in the weeds for couple years. Motor started and runs but was afraid to run too long for fear of burning up motor.
Awesome! The water intake is under the cavitation plate by the prop. I'd recommend using air through the water ejection port (right side of the lower engine cowl). You'll likely need to remove the thermostat to blow air through it tho.
.mazin thanks. I wasnt sure id get it off as it was pretty siezed- they weren't keen to try at the boatyard so I thought id give it a go, your vid defo helped my confidence. I have a small crack in my housing which they wanted to replace but its no worse than the ones on yours so i dont think i'll bother.My shaft is way more corroded than yours but im gonna stuff it with grease and itll be grand. I think youve just helped me save a couple hundred quid in parts and labour. :) :)
That is GREAT to hear!! Super happy that I could help!
@@WiscoBoater do you use a gasket sealer as well as the gaskets? I have had to build up the ring around the bearing/seal on the gear housing with chemical metal as it was pretty corroded. Im guessing this is where the water was getting into the gear oil. it was only a tiny hole but as i was cleaning it it was just crumbling away. its looking pretty flush with the plate but i think gasket seal woulkd be a good idea?
@@nicolaryder4757 I reused the gasket that was there as it was fairly new still. Form-a-gasket would probably work well around just the area of corrosion, in addition to a new or reused gasket. I wouldn't use the sealer all the way around, but should work around the corroded area.
@@WiscoBoater i am stuck. i cant get reverse gear. I have taken the bottom off and on a few times. i feel like the shift rod (which is threaded) is too long. i took the selector assembly out and the piece the rod connects with has got a thread inside. I didnt actually take it apart the boat yard did so i thought possibly what i needed to do was attempt to take up some of the slack by threading it on which was very fiddly, i know yours just slipped in but i didnt know what else to try. btw the shift is definitely free and the rod will find the 3 positions manually when separate from the main body. So after threading the bar on a few turns and putting it all back together i did actually have all 3 positions on the selector....... until that is i filled it with oil :( at which point i threw in the towel and had a couple ciders. hope you dont mind me messaging again, not sure what to do next. I dont want to give up on it
@@nicolaryder4757 I have to start by saying that I'm not an engine mechanic...just an avid boater that loves DIY, but are you saying that the pin that connects the shift lever to the cam that actuates the rod has threads? On this motor that I had (I've since sold it), all of the connections were pins with a cotter pin to secure it to the cam pin can "swivel" when the cam is moved. Is the shift rod (long rod that goes down through the housing to the lower unit) still seated in the lower unit? What was fill with oil? Lower unit?
After loosing the "pain in the ass" linkage bolt twice, I usesd some Fishing Line to secure it.. Saves time and nerves.. After Installation just ripp of the Fishingline.. Hope that helps someone..
Hello friend, first of all congratulations for the perfect explanation video. don't take my bad english I live in Brazil I have an engine from this few years during the video you show the service manual of this engine I have already looked for it here in Brazil and I would never find any possibility for you to send me a copy or some site that may be buying the same since here became impossible. thank you in advance and congratulations for the youtube channel.
Here's the link that I've always used. It prints good enough to make a hard copy of.
cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/31882621.pdf
@@WiscoBoater ok brother thank you very much
Thank you very much! I have the same outboard engine, Honda bf100. Please, can you also make a video (or maybe explain) about how to change the propeller? Is it easy? Thank you again.
You’re welcome! I don’t have this motor anymore, but removing the prop is super easy. Remove the cotter pin, pull the cone retainer off, slide the prop pin out, off it comes. 👍🏻
Great video thank you!
Awesome video that's Bro 👌 👍
Thank you very much.
saved my day
Very good video, thank you. I'm just wondering about the part number on the impeller. I have the same one with the keyway
I wish I still had the part number for you but I sold this motor a while ago and it all went to the new owner. Sorry about that.
Really helpful thanks
Good video thank you
Thanks for posting this! I just bought a 12' v hull with a 1983 Honda b100s, so your videos are super helpful! I do have one question: When I'm working on it on a stand and am running fuel to it from a regular 2.5 gallon gas container, does that gas container need to be sealed, like the standard 6.5 gallon tank it came with? (the 6.5 gallon tank it came with had several cracks!) Will it matter that the gas line is just sitting in the container? Hope that makes sense! Thank you!!
Nope! Won’t matter at all. You just have better venting of the tank! 😁
Your videos are great! Inspiring for the diy kind of guy. Can you help direct me where I can find out what year my Honda four stroke is and where I can find authentic Honda motor repair/installation manuals?
I'm not sure exactly how to read the serial numbers to get a year of manufacture, but the manuals are available online if you search for a Honda B100. I think it's the same manual for the 7.5hp as well. It will have a green-ish colored cover with red lettering.
Any idea where to get parts for the older Honda outboards? I have a 1975 b75 that runs perfect but water pump quit pumping. Took awhile but finally got lower unit separated and the water pump got messed up in the process.... the keyway pin pulled thru metal part inside pump... thanks
Back when I had the B100, the best resource I found was eBay. In fact, I don't think I bought anything for that engine elsewhere. Hope that helps!
Thanks for making this, I just bought one of these (from 1984) and am working on getting her running again.
Did you get your diagrams online, or did the previous owner put that binder together for you?
You're welcome! I found the manual online and printed it out.
@@WiscoBoater Do you have the download address?
Really good video. I would have liked seeing you put the pin back into the top of the shifting rod! Its quite hard to do and I'm wondering if there are any moves you can do to make it easier? Thanks for the video, it really helped me!
Glad you liked the video and it helped!! Yeah, I wish I would have had a way to show that, but every angle I tried, my hands would block what I was doing. With the shifter in the forward position, I used needle nose pliers with tape on them to keep the pin from falling out of the pliers and losing it down the shaft cover, and then wiggled the shifter back and forth to line up the holes. That part wasn't all that bad, but getting the cotter pin in was a PITA.
Hey man I just replaced mine and I took the lower tube off to see if water was even coming out and still no water
Several reasons for no water to look at…tube seals, blocked water jacket passage, stuck thermostat, impeller fins backwards…I’ve seen mud dauber nests in the rubber discharge tubing. I’m an amateur just like most…keep checking possibilities.
@@WiscoBoater tube seals, as in the seal where the lower unit tube meets the tube in the mud section of the outboard?
I also believe the impeller fines are in the right direction. They’re clockwise but I’ll have to double check.
Coming out of the block is a tube, that tube then runs to the other side of the block where the thermostat is. I talked to a guy and he said if I unhooked the tube, and still didn’t see any water coming out, then it’s a problem with the impeller so then I replaced it and still no water.
After replacing the impeller, I took the lower unit back off and used compressed air to check for the pathway around the impeller and got a bunch of old rubber from the last impeller out, I was confident that was the issue, installed everything back and still no water
@@grant1109 I’m learning as I go as well, but with old rubber pieces in the tube, there could definitely be rubber pieces in the water jacket around the cylinders, and even the rubber overboard tube on the port side of the engine. Easiest thing to check is that rubber overboard tube. If there is blockage in the water jacket, that’s harder to clear.
Can you make also a video of de rest off the cooling equipment to repair
I don’t have this motor anymore, sorry.
I dropped by pin down that opening .. I used a bolt , but I can’t get the gear shifter to go reverse. Without the bolt it has full range of motion . Also if in reverse or neutral should you be able to raise rpm’s / via throttle? On mine the mechanism is blocked
It’s only clear in forward
Thx
Wish I could help at this point, but I sold this motor a couple years ago and I don’t remember details like this.
Yep that is how mine is set up
Hello. Enjoyed your video on the Honda 10hp b100 impeller replacement. Would you happen to know the part number of the impeller or is it available as a kit with the plastic cover, key for keyway, gasket and I was under the impression there was a o-ring somewhere? Thanks
Part number is in the video description. I haven't found a kit with the housing and key, and there is no O-ring.
Did you have to drain the gear oil first?
No, gear oil is below the water pump housing. 👍🏻
Hey man I just bought an older Honda 10hp b100. I have a problem with it not idling and even revving while on neutral. It also doesn’t stop when I click the stop button and have to pull choke to shut it off. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
The most common idle issue with these old Honda’s is a partially clogged main jet. Sometimes they’ll start, but won’t idle. Other things to check are the float, bowl gasket, and fuel pump. Unlikely the fuel pump unless the diaphragm has ruptured. I skipped all that and just put a new carb on it. That video will be out next Thursday. Runs like a top now.
The stop button is a simple spark interrupter or current interrupter. When you press the button, it closes to ground and shuts off spark at the coil. There are only two wires, one to the coil, and one to chassis ground. Remove the boots and check connections. If those are good, the issue is inside the coil, or the button switch isn’t closing.
@@WiscoBoater thanks sm I’ll clean the carb and see. My motor literaly revs on its own on neutral
I am replacing the impeller. Got the impeller on the shaft but cannot get the shaft to drop into the lower gears. Is there a trick to this? Do I need to turn something to line it up?
Man...it's been a minute since I did this, and I haven't owned that engine for a couple of years now...but I did open the lower unit to inspect it, and there are components that wear out in there that could be part of the issue. The gears have to be in neutral also, if I recall correctly. I don't remember if you can turn the prop shaft to get the gears to line up...and I wouldn't recommend doing that without consulting someone who really does know. Wish I could help you further...I just don't remember all the details of the lower unit being several years ago when I did it.
I have this same exact motor, but with the flat impeller shaft. Do you happen to have the diagram for that or that impeller part number? Thank you!!
I’m sorry, I don’t…I don’t do this for a living so I have to find everything too.
I would have just left that impeller in there and kept the new one for a spare. That old impeller looks just fine.
Totally agree with the condition of the old impeller, but to each his own. I've always operated boat engines with the mindset of if I have the new part, the new part goes in regardless of the condition of the part that comes out. If the part is still good, it goes in to the spares or emergency use box. Thanks for watching!
Also can you make a video on how to tilt the motor please? I have a hard time lowering the motor, it has a metal bar that goes into these grooves and I can’t take it out of the groove without lifting it and moving the metal bar to a lower groove
I’d be happy to! You may find info before I can publish it, but I’ll try to get an extra video of that out by the weekend.
@@WiscoBoater THANKS!
Video on trim and tilt is up!
Is there any kind of seal on the drive shaft above the impeller as it comes out of the impeller housing?
No, the housing provides the top seal.
Go Pack Go!
Got the impeller replaced and everything put back together but now i can't shift into reverse. Is there a certain position the shifting rod has to be in and does it need to line up somewhere with the shifting lever? It goes forward, neutral and tries to go into reverse but it cant get over the hump (the shifting rod doesnt go down far enough)
Leaving my original comment for future people, fixed it but putting it all back together including the shift linkage but manually turning the propeller while trying to shift into neutral and it finally went.
Glad to hear you got it in to position. 👍👍
I just picked up one of the Honda 10 horse and it is stuck in neutral, will not go into forward or reverse. Do you have any idea as to what it could be ?
Thanks John.
Hi John, these engines won't let the gear shift leave neutral if the throttle is in the 'Start' position with the engine off so there is no chance of starting the motor with it in gear. I would check the throttle cable for a break or if it isn't in the correct position.
Awesome thanks. I did notice that the throttle cable is stuck.
@@tr6chop Any time! That's probably the culprit.
I was the import number on that impeller with the keyway. I got the wrong one twice
Is there a difference between the b100s and the bf100
No idea…never owned a BF100. I’m sure they’re pretty similar tho.
Pretty good info! Where to download the Manual?
Google knows all! LOL
cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/31882621.pdf
@@WiscoBoater Thank’s a lot for the link. Do you have one for assembling of part as well?
@@jansvendsen6540 Haven't come across a parts manual.
@@WiscoBoater Neither did I after searching a lot. Thank you anyway!
How do I determine the year of my B100 Honda outboard?
I don't have this engine anymore, and I don't remember the format, but there is a ton of resources online to decode Honda outboard serial numbers. Sorry I can't help with this at this point.
Where do you order the parts from.
Everything I bought for that motor when I had it was bought on eBay. 👍
Hey where do you get all your parts at for this motor
Everything except the emergency shutoff has come from eBay shopping so far.
hello where can you order this impeller with housing and seals
I got this one on eBay…
Not sure about the housing and gaskets. eBay is a good source tho.
This is the link
What is the part number for the impeller?
Great question! I should have pointed that out in the video, but I'll add it to the description as well. Part# 19210-935-003
honda made no more blue outboards after 1985.
Does this impeller for the bf75?
The BF75 and BF100 are very similar engines, but I can't answer this for sure.
how to adjust the gears in such an engine
I've never dug in to an outboard engine that far. Don't know.
You just spin the driveshaft with a little molly on the Impeller and water pump housing. That zip tie method is nonsense mkay. You can put the lower in gear and spin the prop so driveshaft rotates clockwise.
We all have our own methods, but thanks for watching!👍😎
Many of newer honda 8hp and b100 share many many parts
Good to know, thanks!
In 1987 or 88 when everyone went to prop horsepower rating instead of some manufacturers being flywheel hp and the rest prop hp Honda b100 became the grey 8hp
I might not be totally correct but Google search for parts for both outboards come up exactly the same
Traducir en español gracias
give me 7.5hp infilar