Thanks man! I should've saved up a bit for the camgears. Noticed something l didn't like about the bolts. It's not quite up to the job of loosening and tigntening sequences. If l'm not careful it's so easily can strip out. I'll make a review about it when time comes.
H22a4 crank pulley is good, it's same part as H23A and F20b also. Maybe the p1B stamped was the H23a bluetop designation but practically it's same part.
It looks like you'll need a adjustable gears. Keep your crank gear line up and if one of the gear won't line up( I assume it's intake side) you need a adjustable gears.
@@sagittnet2158 the one I'm using is adjustable and I get both cam gears to align but once I put the belt on the crank will miss aligned slightly. I can post a video for you to see.
@@Open90 Get your crank gear to align and exhaust cam gear align on flat surface of the cyl head. Does the intake cam gear is slightly off? Insert a pin, allen wrench, or drill bit that is same hole diameter that's on camshafts. Drop it on the inspection hole and if it doesn't go in or it require you push it in hard, then next is remove your pin, loosen cam gear bolts and rotate your cam advance or retard 'till your pin or drill bit can be inserted on the inspection hole w/o forcing it. Make sure it goes straight, if its binding the pin or drill bit will be in angle. Once your satisfied secure all you cam gear bolts and recheck. Rotate assy and align your crank gear and ex camgear align to flange of cyl head. Use your pin to recheck the alignment of you camshafts thru the inspection hole. the 2 dash line may not quite lined up anymore but your camshafts are dead center now. Always remove your pin when rotating assembly. It's very easy to forget, I know because I broke those drill bit, I forgot it's still dropped in there. I have a video on how I adjusted mine. I'll check if i can find it and link it.
@@sagittnet2158 Thank you for taking the time to help, really appreciate it. I got the alignment of the cam gears with the head and I checked to confirm with the drill bit in inspection hole. Everything align good there but as soon I put the belt on the crank would shift slightly. I'm posting a short soon so you can see.
Can i do this with my bc stage 2 cams . They have the holes . Or do i have to have them degreed in ? I also have my type s one. but im fully built for hi boost. How did them cam gears work out ? I have a brand new set sitting here but im kinda of scared of them . Might try my stock ones and if its decked to much then ill go from there .
The alignment or witness holes should work on your Bc cams. If somehow you tried everything to align the crank and 2 camgears together but timing belt alignment still a bit off, just put your aligning tool on it and zero out your adjustable gears. If you can attach a marker so you wont accidentally rotate the assy while the pin or drill bit still in it will help. Caused it happened to me, snap the drill bit and have to fish out the remaining piece from the cam.
It's best to have your BC cams degree to your engine so you'll get the power potential of it. The VMS cam gears are okay. I think l can say it's good coz my engine went thru 3 dyno sessions and no problem whatsoever. My only complain in the beginning was the screws, make sure to use a torque wrench. In my opinion, it could use a cap head bolts rather than use a allen socket. But you can avoid any damage from it by just giving it a much lower torque than advertise if you are making a multiple adjustment. Give it the full torque values w/ locktite on threads on your final settings and forget about it. You'll be okay. You can change the bolts w/ ARP or something like AEM use, that'll be great if you like.
What's your power goal if you dont mind me asking? The base or type S cams are good for Turbo up to 450whp, BC cams should give more. Good luck on your build and you'll be okay w/ VMS cam gears. Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 thanks for the replay Iv been watching a lot of your videos , listen to them at work too , my power goals is 700-800hp. But i want to keep it down at 500hp till I go to the track .
@@brianburris l would definitely replace the VMS bolts with something better and it should hold up fine. Good luck to your build and shoot a msg rime to time for an update. Like to hear any progress on your build or at least upload a shorts story or something. Thanks
Whats wrong if it's too hard to turn the Crank by hand? I have a H22A4 with Type-S pistons and Skunk2 Tuner Stage 2 cams with AEM cam gears. It will turn smooth couple turns with the ratchet but then the belt gets super tight and if I force it the timing belt skips a tooth on the cam gear.
You got some good parts on your setup man! Firsr time l've experienced a fresh built motor that the t belt will jump was the time l'm claying the g23. Which l knew right away it was the cam caps. I assumed yours was not same scenario like l have were my H22 cyl head is not a set. Does the crank, rod n piston turn w/ no problem after you put it all together? Your bearing oil clearance check ok? I built a B18 and l couldnt turn the crank on the block. Turned out the block was tweaked. l ended sending the block to get the main caps line honed at its fixed. The installation of the conrods can also make it not to turn correct. If the rod caps are not in correctly place on the rod, it can tweak the bearings. The type of assy lube also can make it hard to turn the assy. Your crank end play clearance ok? Engine not in the car yet l hope, you still have time to check the placement of your rod bearing caps. The h22a4 stroker l built for my Accord, l have to use a breaker bar to turned the assy but lucky l never experienced like what you have that t belt will jump off the gears. When l open it up to changed the #1 piston rings due to blue smoke. I retorqued the main caps and somehow that helped a bit. Hope some info can be helpful to you.
@@sagittnet2158 thanks for the reply. I hope it's just the cam caps too tight we didn't know the torque specs for cam caps at the time. The engine is actually already in the car it was running before. I just swapped a new Head and Cams. Without the head I can rotate the crank by hand no problem. We was doing Valve Adjustment rotating the crank to adjust #3 when we noticed how tight it got I forced it one turn but it didn't feel or sound good and we noticed the timing belt skip a tooth on the Intake side. That's when my brother said to stop dont force it he wants to make sure the Valves are not hitting the pistons. Hopefully I didn't bend the Valves. We are going to work on it again this weekend.
@@sagittnet2158 it still has the OEM auto tensioner. I just ordered a Manual Tensioner. Why do you think it could be the problem? The Auto Tensioner was fully extended when we was rotating the crank doing the valve adjustment. Should we have rotated the crank without the Auto Tensioner first ?
Roskoracing, yes! I was reading on to it long time ago but seems like a lot of work. I bet it puts out more torque though. Do you happen to have a set up?
@@sagittnet2158 Thank you for your response, I like your videos, well I'm building an H2K but I'm having trouble getting the crankshaft kit. If you have any links to the Roskoracing store, I would appreciate it. The links I found are expired.
@@johnnet.rar2878 That'll be interesting project. I dont have link for his site other than browse roskoracing.com website. Be nice to know after you get it running and find a results.
not trying to be negative, or an ass here, but I just don't understand how you can trust some cheap chinese cam gears like that. seems like a strange thing to cheap out on.
Not at all and you are corrrect, l just got another taste of my own medicine. I got a AEM and sure is not built like it. Found the screws are a bit odd. My metric allen socket was a bit loose when l was giving it a torque. I thought it was a standard size but it's not. One bolt almost got strip and l think l'm going to change the bolts. I'll mention it on my next episode or give it a review. Thanks man!
Great details on your motor building with aftermarket cam gear, 👍
Thanks man! I should've saved up a bit for the camgears. Noticed something l didn't like about the bolts. It's not quite up to the job of loosening and tigntening sequences. If l'm not careful it's so easily can strip out. I'll make a review about it when time comes.
right on! Almost ready:)
Getting there bud!
Man great great work u make that easy great esplanation I usually struggle with it thanks
Hehehe, the power of editing. Jk aside, l think l tried it 3x, got lucky and not a whole lot of adjustment needed.
Bros living my dream
Thanks brother!
Can you use a H22a4 timing belt pulley? Not sure if those are different than the H23
H22a4 crank pulley is good, it's same part as H23A and F20b also. Maybe the p1B stamped was the H23a bluetop designation but practically it's same part.
Mine stamp P1B also. Just want to confirm it will work, let me know.
Just like what I have, you'll know once you put on the belt.
@@sagittnet2158 What you mean? I put the belt on but can't get the crank to align. It's slightly off
I'm timing my engine with adjustable cam gears also but having a hard time get the crank to lineup. Keeps shifting when I put on the belt
It looks like you'll need a adjustable gears. Keep your crank gear line up and if one of the gear won't line up( I assume it's intake side) you need a adjustable gears.
@@sagittnet2158 the one I'm using is adjustable and I get both cam gears to align but once I put the belt on the crank will miss aligned slightly. I can post a video for you to see.
@@Open90 Get your crank gear to align and exhaust cam gear align on flat surface of the cyl head. Does the intake cam gear is slightly off? Insert a pin, allen wrench, or drill bit that is same hole diameter that's on camshafts. Drop it on the inspection hole and if it doesn't go in or it require you push it in hard, then next is remove your pin, loosen cam gear bolts and rotate your cam advance or retard 'till your pin or drill bit can be inserted on the inspection hole w/o forcing it. Make sure it goes straight, if its binding the pin or drill bit will be in angle. Once your satisfied secure all you cam gear bolts and recheck. Rotate assy and align your crank gear and ex camgear align to flange of cyl head. Use your pin to recheck the alignment of you camshafts thru the inspection hole. the 2 dash line may not quite lined up anymore but your camshafts are dead center now. Always remove your pin when rotating assembly. It's very easy to forget, I know because I broke those drill bit, I forgot it's still dropped in there. I have a video on how I adjusted mine. I'll check if i can find it and link it.
@@sagittnet2158 Thank you for taking the time to help, really appreciate it. I got the alignment of the cam gears with the head and I checked to confirm with the drill bit in inspection hole. Everything align good there but as soon I put the belt on the crank would shift slightly. I'm posting a short soon so you can see.
@@sagittnet2158 I just posted a short showing this. Let know your thoughts. Thanks
Can i do this with my bc stage 2 cams . They have the holes . Or do i have to have them degreed in ? I also have my type s one. but im fully built for hi boost. How did them cam gears work out ? I have a brand new set sitting here but im kinda of scared of them . Might try my stock ones and if its decked to much then ill go from there .
The alignment or witness holes should work on your Bc cams. If somehow you tried everything to align the crank and 2 camgears together but timing belt alignment still a bit off, just put your aligning tool on it and zero out your adjustable gears. If you can attach a marker so you wont accidentally rotate the assy while the pin or drill bit still in it will help. Caused it happened to me, snap the drill bit and have to fish out the remaining piece from the cam.
It's best to have your BC cams degree to your engine so you'll get the power potential of it. The VMS cam gears are okay. I think l can say it's good coz my engine went thru 3 dyno sessions and no problem whatsoever. My only complain in the beginning was the screws, make sure to use a torque wrench. In my opinion, it could use a cap head bolts rather than use a allen socket. But you can avoid any damage from it by just giving it a much lower torque than advertise if you are making a multiple adjustment. Give it the full torque values w/ locktite on threads on your final settings and forget about it. You'll be okay. You can change the bolts w/ ARP or something like AEM use, that'll be great if you like.
What's your power goal if you dont mind me asking? The base or type S cams are good for Turbo up to 450whp, BC cams should give more. Good luck on your build and you'll be okay w/ VMS cam gears. Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 thanks for the replay Iv been watching a lot of your videos , listen to them at work too , my power goals is 700-800hp. But i want to keep it down at 500hp till I go to the track .
@@brianburris l would definitely replace the VMS bolts with something better and it should hold up fine. Good luck to your build and shoot a msg rime to time for an update. Like to hear any progress on your build or at least upload a shorts story or something. Thanks
Whats wrong if it's too hard to turn the Crank by hand? I have a H22A4 with Type-S pistons and Skunk2 Tuner Stage 2 cams with AEM cam gears. It will turn smooth couple turns with the ratchet but then the belt gets super tight and if I force it the timing belt skips a tooth on the cam gear.
You got some good parts on your setup man! Firsr time l've experienced a fresh built motor that the t belt will jump was the time l'm claying the g23. Which l knew right away it was the cam caps. I assumed yours was not same scenario like l have were my H22 cyl head is not a set. Does the crank, rod n piston turn w/ no problem after you put it all together? Your bearing oil clearance check ok? I built a B18 and l couldnt turn the crank on the block. Turned out the block was tweaked. l ended sending the block to get the main caps line honed at its fixed. The installation of the conrods can also make it not to turn correct. If the rod caps are not in correctly place on the rod, it can tweak the bearings. The type of assy lube also can make it hard to turn the assy. Your crank end play clearance ok? Engine not in the car yet l hope, you still have time to check the placement of your rod bearing caps. The h22a4 stroker l built for my Accord, l have to use a breaker bar to turned the assy but lucky l never experienced like what you have that t belt will jump off the gears. When l open it up to changed the #1 piston rings due to blue smoke. I retorqued the main caps and somehow that helped a bit. Hope some info can be helpful to you.
Are you using those kstune type belt tensioner?
@@sagittnet2158 thanks for the reply. I hope it's just the cam caps too tight we didn't know the torque specs for cam caps at the time. The engine is actually already in the car it was running before. I just swapped a new Head and Cams. Without the head I can rotate the crank by hand no problem. We was doing Valve Adjustment rotating the crank to adjust #3 when we noticed how tight it got I forced it one turn but it didn't feel or sound good and we noticed the timing belt skip a tooth on the Intake side. That's when my brother said to stop dont force it he wants to make sure the Valves are not hitting the pistons. Hopefully I didn't bend the Valves. We are going to work on it again this weekend.
@@sagittnet2158 it still has the OEM auto tensioner. I just ordered a Manual Tensioner. Why do you think it could be the problem? The Auto Tensioner was fully extended when we was rotating the crank doing the valve adjustment. Should we have rotated the crank without the Auto Tensioner first ?
@@skromee wow! That's explained it. The #2 caps have identifier, it has a arrow on it. Maybe it got mix up, but hope you get it figure out.
has information about the adaptation kit for k24 crankshaft in h22?
Roskoracing, yes! I was reading on to it long time ago but seems like a lot of work. I bet it puts out more torque though. Do you happen to have a set up?
@@sagittnet2158 Thank you for your response, I like your videos, well I'm building an H2K but I'm having trouble getting the crankshaft kit. If you have any links to the Roskoracing store, I would appreciate it. The links I found are expired.
@@johnnet.rar2878 That'll be interesting project. I dont have link for his site other than browse roskoracing.com website. Be nice to know after you get it running and find a results.
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for your help, I'll tell you how to proceed later 👌
not trying to be negative, or an ass here, but I just don't understand how you can trust some cheap chinese cam gears like that. seems like a strange thing to cheap out on.
Not at all and you are corrrect, l just got another taste of my own medicine. I got a AEM and sure is not built like it. Found the screws are a bit odd. My metric allen socket was a bit loose when l was giving it a torque. I thought it was a standard size but it's not. One bolt almost got strip and l think l'm going to change the bolts. I'll mention it on my next episode or give it a review. Thanks man!