the most in depth and thorough video for Honda head gasket and top end seals on you tube! This video is the epitome of a chiltons manual in video format.👍🏻
Both this video and the removal video are probably one of the best DIY in depth videos I’ve ever seen man !! You did an amazing job man all the work and time you put in to help so many people ! Awesome job man !!
is there n waiting time between torque specs? @@GarageBuiltHondas saw another video with a dude waiting 15 mins and an hour beetween torques respectively
Amazing! I'm getting a b20 soon for my 96 hatch and your channel literally teaches me how to rebuild one all in one shot! Thank you and keep up these helpful vids!
montanojesse27 yeah your right much better instructions. I like other sites like HSG but they have to much playing around and no action in my opinion Jon widmer is way to underrated
Just seeing this video. I know its a few years old. But for you or anyone else who may not know. When you're doing the valve adjustment sometimes the screw will be tight against the locknut and would rotate with the lock nut when you tighten it which would alter the clearance. I always used that special valve adjustment tool to hold the adjustment in place while tightening the locknut. The tool is a combination of a flathead tip and a 12mm socket into one handle. You probably wouldnt have that proplem since you had it acid washed. But this tip might be useful for anyone who is doing a valve adjustment on a engine in which the head was not removed or cleaned. Great video!
wow. I have a 1994 Integra with a B20B that has a blown head gasket and every video I've watched has left me feeling like something was missing. I was nervous about timing, nervous about the valves and the cams, but now I feel like I'm ready to tackle this. What an awesome video.
That acid dip has cleaned up the head so well... it almost scares me. But, a seperated head and valvetrain in a ziplock is enough to terrify me. Still, that head is stunningly clean. Thank you for the clarity, attention to detail and professional shot scheduling. I suspect you storyboard everything... from dowel pin insertion scenes to valvetrain to hose clamp installation, and it's really helpful. Indeed there's a good cadecne here that's actually very engaging. I'm very happy to have a new project at the moment and would greatly benefit from your knowlege. I'm 44 and way past dick measuring via trap speeds etc, and have some plans that seek to develop the car as a whole, maintain its factory appearance at least to the unobsessed, and ultimately create a very special restomod Honda that seeks to arrive at what Honda-san might have come up with had an evolutionaty path much like the 911 been maintained. -Had certain refulatory regimes (which were important I realize) I'm talking the full AEM 506 infinity stand alone e. management to include all new fuel pressure, map, maf, temps, timing sensors monitoring, and the means to adapt the data, and respond in realtime. This includes a COP conversion in order to start leveraging this data flow, finding small power via new efficiencies, and the ability to switch to a different fuel type with a simple button push. This means e85 and race gass tunes will be ready when called on, but best of all I'd like to sneak a Holley nitrous kit underhood, ready to go, but making sure to comafauge the hardware well. I mean to hav a semi-tuck done and to be careful to hide the new electronics and custom looms so as to give the illusion of a stock GSR to most people.In support of these luxories will be a full rebuild, top and bottom, with the usual seals and bearing in place. However, I'm game for forged rods, hi comp pistons, new upgraded valvetrain incl vlves, seats, springs w/titainium retainers and motion loss springs instead of hydro rockers, and of course some streetable but noticable cams taking me to 9k rpm. More power isn't the point, control and efficiency are, but will bring some ponies provided the right breathing support. Its not a racecar, wont see the track, nor do I play the stoplight grand prix. I want a head that makes your eyes water with its flow numbers, and your soul catch fire while Vtec hammers away like a 200hp sewing machine. I'd consider boring out just enough to increase the 87 mm bore just past the 87.1-something stroke just to be able to say the engine oversquare, but only if it makes sense and re-sleeving not req'd. We may get in there and need to take some material away, you never know with a new car. Decked would be awesoome but can be pricey an we're already on a massive spree before I start asking whether used ohlines DC2 coilovers could run on my DB2. My car is bone stock so I need full bushings replacement, front and rear springs/struts, some street quality arms, whatever chassis strengthening is possible include seam welding and a web of bars . But we'll see. Since I'm looking for an office to rent for my trading business I just might look for a teeny single lift bay shop space with an office and washroom and renovate into the ultimate man-cave with a big screen, racing simulator, some couches and a bunk bed in the office portion. Then mechanics could come to me and I'd let all the young guys hang out to fix their whips, check where the head is at, an create a safe place for learning, esp. for me! Have I mentioned my car has factory leather? First I've seen. Anyway a fuill reupholstery is needed and then might as well o the whole carpet too, With factory leather it oes free me to get funky with my new seat designs maybe using new Type R red leather or dark blue suede - maybe the yellow? Or I could buy type R seats and just have my rears done. Much as I prefer the type R seats, refinishng my own would leave more room for creativity and individuality, unless I bought type r seats and custom upholstered them. Lastly, although I'm presently refinisng the factory wheels, I want to pick up some Mugen NR-10s - would getting them custom widened be heresay, profane or just douchy? I've got my heart set on those and yo match I'm wondering of the circa 1992 mugen crx tear drop exhaust could be fiddled to fit my car or at least the muffler - it is so damn cool looking, I have to admit. Well, that's the picture at the moment but really I'm still new at this even though a had my first db2 from 2000-2005 - I didnt get in deep because I had zilch disposable income back then. Now I'm reunited with my Elenore and I could decide college is for losers and drain my kid's education savings. Fact: this car was first registered by the original and only owner 20 years to the day after my birthday.I'm 44 so this summer it'll turn 2 when I turn 45 - which also means I can get a classics plate for it if I wait until July which is the plan. A classics plate! It's official I'm middle aged and having my first middle age crisis. It's only cost me 2k so far but if you read above you saw that I'm comitting another 20k overthe next two years even though (actually BECAUSE) I'll never get any of it back. This is personal. I love that car when I had the forst one in 2000 and selling in 2006 was extremely hard to swallow. Anyway, I'm up for whatever feedback anyone has, I'm not an experienced Honda or any other kind of mechanic but I stumble through anything but engine internals. But fact is that I have a Nuerological diusease and have been ill for 5-6 years now without let-up so I spent most of my energy and time making money from trading the financial markets everyday, online business's etc, to support my family. - and need good, honest and professional mechanics who are good people with families and then I happily pay them top dollar. I'm in Victoria BC, Canada - though working on the strengh o move
I recently came across your channel. I just bought a 2000 crv with no compression in cylinder 4. I need to remove the head to see what's going on. I've never attempted something like this before but your removal/install videos give me confidence! Thank you for making them.
You're welcome! You can watch this video first if you need help removing the accessory components (power steering and AC belts and parts). ua-cam.com/video/auKaiOKNOP0/v-deo.html
Between part 1 and part your gunna be love saver this weekend got my bro comin to town we gunna do full engine haul over and yeah vary grateful and thankful for you and your knowledge.
I think I liked this already - at least it was the vid that made me subscribe. Non-VTEC B-18 or B-20 head and a cam is always the easiest and most stout way to turbo a honda. (This or a K20 or K24!)
I have a ls built on boost and I didn’t want to pay a shop to install my head with ARPs checked this video out and did it my own she crank first start amazing video literally 🔥🔥
Dyam video got me felling good about my LS I blew the distributor . I disconnected it cause in the CA you'll get Got quick , any way I woke in a hurry and keep trying to start it and boom it made a loud pop . I plugged it back in and started right up but then like couple days later we pulled a spark plus to see how it ran and it died on me . Everyone said it was flooded but car sat for two years and now I'm rebuild it . Hell yeah !
thanks to you i was able to remove my cylinder head with ease i will be following your video to re install after i get a resurface and replace my valve that cracked i appreciate the knowledge
awesome video! can't emphasize enough to be extra careful with those woodruff keys. I dropped one, fell down under the belt below the water pump. took a magnet to find it.
I found that using shop towels can be really effective to clean the bolt holes. i roll them up one square per hole and shove them down the hole, they are really absorbent then I go in with a qtip to get the extras but its pretty helpful.
This is when I warn folks after having a head freshly resurfaced. Don't scratch it, touch it with bare skim, dont so much as bump it. That is your sealing surface and it's critical. I know GHB agrees. That's why he's wearing gloves👍
It would! But that would require pulling the pan then getting the pistons out. It's a lot more work than doing just the head gasket. If needed I would have did that as well, but I don't have any issues with leaky/burning oil/smoking rings.... yet. Lol
Man watching this gave me hope to get my integra back up had some one work on it didn't finish the job watchin you do it and explaining it i can try n do it thanks!
I learned a lot. Thanks for the great quality vid! Hoping to buy a 1989 CRX for my first car! I do own a Mazda B3000, but I basically just gave $600 for the thing. Honda, here I come.
I know the video is 3 years old and all but I wanted to say thank you for this, I'm about to rebuild a A1 and was apprehensive about it till I saw this, I can only hope it goes as smoothly for me as it did for you. Would it be possible for me to shoot ya some questions on IG? Kudos on the video and work either way.
Man you the best! After watching any of your videos makes gets me all hyped and want to work on my db8. Then I remember I don't know how to take apart the differential or mess with the transmission hahaha!
Lol, transmissions are easy to pull apart, but can be intimidating if you've never done one before. You'll probably need a bearing puller also if working on any of the gears/synchro/bearings on the gear stacks! Do it man, it'll be a good learning experience!
Jon Widmer yeah man I want to tackle it down but living in a apartment kinda sucks. Yeah I almost bought another transmission just to not have the car apart for a while. Want to track the car so maybe I'll go lsd soon hopefully!
good stuff man now time for that track lol you just got me thinking on rebuilding my engine this vids are really good and pretty well explain thanks keep up the good work dude
if i need new piston rings, even if i do it myself, is it even worth spending all the time and effort to replace them? or is it a better idea to just do a swap?
If doing rings, might as well do a full rebuild. It's is more labor but beneficial in the long run. A swap is quicker and faster but more engines have a lot of miles on them now.
Totally professional video. Many thanks to your skill and technical information made the valve job easier. Great explanations and camera work too. The timing belt reinstallation was the most difficult part as I didn’t know about the rubber plug for access to the tensioner. I used a fel-pro gasket kit and no RTV and everything seems okay. The old CR-V runs on 4 cylinders again!! 🙏
@@GarageBuiltHondas 2000 CRV. May you walk me through please? Do I take off belt lower cover, push down the tensioner spring after loosen the adjustment bolt 180 degree? A mechanic is asking $250 to put belt back on rotors. I am a dummie on timing belt.
What do you think about the method of rebuilding the bottom end with it still in the car? I've seen it done before and looked pretty easy but didn't know how common it is. I often think about putting some aftermarket pistons and rods in my b18c so I can push the boost a bit higher.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Cool, yeah I originally saw it done on an old honda engine build dvd I bought way back in the day, a guy named "the omniman" did it that way. Anyways, thanks I'll check out that channel.
What’s the difference between doing it on a vtech and non vtech .? I’m getting ready to do my b18c1 but I can’t seem to find someone on here.. your video is awesome on explaining every step.!
One of my rocker arms broke and to put it in spec I have to adjust it way more than the others. I just ordered replacements so hopefully that’s the fix
the most in video for Honda head gasket and top end seals and timing. just one question once you put the valve cover on did you set it back to TDC to start car or is it ok not tdc
It's ok. Timing is already set. It's kind of like when you turn off your car and it stops rotating wherever. It's safe to start it again because it's properly timed now.
Hey, watched this again because I rebuilt my head and wanted to double check. When you set the valve clearance, I noticed the acura service manual had a torque specified on the adjustment nut. I used a beam wrench to set it, I think it was like 18 ft lb or something- did I understand that wrong or should hand tight be used?
srarcade Never a pest homie!! I love to try and help, but I'm glad it was something simple. My timing gun is a harbor freight also and has the same dial which moves itself too easily sometimes. I think I'm going to tape mine up next time I use it. lol
would hondabond also work for sealing instead of permatex? i know the service manual calls for hondabond on the oil pump, so just wondering if that applies here as well. other than that great video man, super informative and helpful! remounting my head in a few days
I have a question on head removal. When you remove the head initially after draining coolant, will coolant end up in oil? Replaced head gasket on a ford probe and had issues with coolant leaking down into the oil and remaining there after an oil change.
It is possible to get some in there. You could also drain the coolant from the block by removing the drain bolt behind the exhaust manifold and you wouldn't have to worry about this at all.
Garage Built Hondas yes exhaust is off and bolt has been removed and coolant has been drained, just some coolant remaining in the neck above the starter that runs through the back of the block so wanted to ask
Now this will be the same for an integra b18 yes? I'm getting some smoke from my muffler. This seems like a big job for someone who doesn't work on cars ugh 😑
Got a b20 swapped civic and I just got some new adjustable cam gears looking forward to this whole project, hopefully it'll be good after the work is done
At the 10:00 mark next to the coolant hose where it goes into the block there is a hex head screw. My crv is leaking there. What is that and should I back it out and Teflon tape it?
Appreciated sir! I just noticed my lower belt cover is not present! previous mechanic probably destroyed it , can I set the timing without that part? I am unable to see any reference marks. Please help, almost reaching the final steps! Always thankful with you!
The crankshaft where the woodruff key goes in need to be at 12'o'clock. If you can verify the crankshaft is there, then you can set the timing on the cam gears with the timing belt.
@@GarageBuiltHondas OH my godness! looks like I cant verify that without removing that hard to remove crank bolt! Really sad, with all your videos I felt I can do it, but now I am turning my head down, this irresponsible local mechanics wont deserve never my respect, respect to you, I will let you know whenever theres is light in this shadowy situation, big respect and thanks again.
Hey great video, I’m stuck with a timing problem, I don’t have the timing belt cover on so I don’t know where to line up the crank pulley timing mark. What should I do, thanks
After putting on the timing belt and when you rotate the engine, should you feel high points of pressure at particular degrees? and then once you go past those point should you feel all that pressure just relieving right away?
@@GarageBuiltHondas ok thank you for replying. I thought it was getting stuck and that the valves were hitting the pistons 😅. But also, belt in between the cams rises when that pressure builds up and then straightens out when the pressure releases. Should that be happening?
@@GarageBuiltHondas ok so today is the second day I've been running the car, i drove it for 40 minutes and I'm checking the fuel trim. At first the long term trim was +4 but now it's at +7.8. could this be because of the ecu reset from disconnecting the battery?
I just watch your two videos on removing, replacing the cylinder head and there are well done and I'm ready to do my head gasket and valves seals. Also I wanted to know how much did you spend on the machine shop for all the work they did on your cylinder head.
if you didnt resurface the head, could you just reinstall dizzy and note the camshaft positions, so that it can all go back together without valve adjustment or timing? as long as the head/block are true flat.. i just dont want to adjust valves or have to get it timed b18 94 ls integra Thank you to any thoughts in advance
+Socknetea You probably could try it, but I don't believe it's worth the effort. I didn't resurfaced the head when I had the bent valve and it lasted only 9 months and the HG blew. Spending the extra time to adjust the valves will save you some headache in the future. You're already there installing the head, why not spend just a small amount of effort extra and complete it as it should be. I've done work like that in the past years ago when I didn't know any better and it was never worth it. But you should be able to attempt it if you want to make not of all the settings.
okay i agree, adjusting the valves are worth the effort/resetting timing as well. I think ill go ahead and resurface the head at least while im at it. Thank you for the info and the feedback! The goal is replace worn head gasket
Thanks to your video the hg swap went rather well. Would have been a full success had a valve keeper not failed dropping a valve into cyl 3 chamber effectively trashing the motor, piston and cyl head marred and damaged. But I learned a whole lot and had a blast honestly. 10/10 would rip my car apart again
Super explaination, my friend and I recently did a head job on my b18a1 DA9 integra, im concerned since even after we did the valve lash adjustment to spec the engine has a much more audible "tick" sound than before the head job however my friend says it "sounds normal" and I trust his 20 years of tuning exp however it doesn't sound like it did and that bothers me, ive also tried a half bottle of lucas oil stabilizer at oil change and the sound didn't change, I'm open to any ideas.
I had a tuner friend that used to run his own shop do it, but it was a rushed job at 2am since we both had work the next morning. However, I just got back from having it done by a legendary old timer NSX tech over at Tybrid Auto here in GA and she's running like a champ again, ticking is gone, and the drumming/burbling exhaust sound gone, he does amazing work and is a really great guy.
Thinking back on doing my head install...I realized I never cleaned the head bolt holes out....there wasn’t a significant amount of oil on any of the old bolts when I took the head off - do you think that I will be okay? Or should I disassemble everything and clean them out and reassemble?
You're supposed to clean them out because it'll change the torque values on the head bolts if there's oil in there. It'll probably be ok, but if you have the opportunity to do so, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
Hey I was told the rockers need to be in the right place ? I did the same and had everything cleaned up and not knowing where there are I just place them anywhere like in the video and adjusting while noticing that its too tight to accept .003 in intake side while the flat head screw is counterclockwise out? Thanks
As long as they are adjusted to spec they can go into other positions. When I had mine cleaned I had no idea which were which. After installing and setting valve lash to spec, I've had no issues.
the most in depth and thorough video for Honda head gasket and top end seals on you tube! This video is the epitome of a chiltons manual in video format.👍🏻
Damn man, such an awesome comment and love to hear it!! Really appreciate it!!
The fact that you give us torque specs good man 👍🏼 very detailed video helps a lot with my build
🙏👍
Both this video and the removal video are probably one of the best DIY in depth videos I’ve ever seen man !! You did an amazing job man all the work and time you put in to help so many people ! Awesome job man !!
Thank you very much!
Got the link for the removal?
ua-cam.com/video/IUorWvzMU4E/v-deo.html
is there n waiting time between torque specs?
@@GarageBuiltHondas saw another video with a dude waiting 15 mins and an hour beetween torques respectively
Amazing! I'm getting a b20 soon for my 96 hatch and your channel literally teaches me how to rebuild one all in one shot! Thank you and keep up these helpful vids!
Right on dude, that's gonna be awesome!!
montanojesse27 yeah your right much better instructions. I like other sites like HSG but they have to much playing around and no action in my opinion Jon widmer is way to underrated
Wesley Simmons much appreciated man, thank you so much!!
Wesley Simmons my thoughts exactly HSG gets to it but not as specifically and professionally as Jon does
Just seeing this video. I know its a few years old. But for you or anyone else who may not know. When you're doing the valve adjustment sometimes the screw will be tight against the locknut and would rotate with the lock nut when you tighten it which would alter the clearance. I always used that special valve adjustment tool to hold the adjustment in place while tightening the locknut. The tool is a combination of a flathead tip and a 12mm socket into one handle. You probably wouldnt have that proplem since you had it acid washed. But this tip might be useful for anyone who is doing a valve adjustment on a engine in which the head was not removed or cleaned. Great video!
Excellent advice and added input! I always double check but I have seen that happen before too when I was first learning how to adjust the valves.
wow. I have a 1994 Integra with a B20B that has a blown head gasket and every video I've watched has left me feeling like something was missing. I was nervous about timing, nervous about the valves and the cams, but now I feel like I'm ready to tackle this. What an awesome video.
>First frame with all the parts on the table
>Smashed like
This video desrves more likes. The honda community appreciates the detailed video guy!
This was a flat out excellent video, camera work and how to. Exceptionally well done.
Thank you for that!!
That acid dip has cleaned up the head so well... it almost scares me. But, a seperated head and valvetrain in a ziplock is enough to terrify me. Still, that head is stunningly clean. Thank you for the clarity, attention to detail and professional shot scheduling. I suspect you storyboard everything... from dowel pin insertion scenes to valvetrain to hose clamp installation, and it's really helpful. Indeed there's a good cadecne here that's actually very engaging. I'm very happy to have a new project at the moment and would greatly benefit from your knowlege. I'm 44 and way past dick measuring via trap speeds etc, and have some plans that seek to develop the car as a whole, maintain its factory appearance at least to the unobsessed, and ultimately create a very special restomod Honda that seeks to arrive at what Honda-san might have come up with had an evolutionaty path much like the 911 been maintained. -Had certain refulatory regimes (which were important I realize)
I'm talking the full AEM 506 infinity stand alone e. management to include all new fuel pressure, map, maf, temps, timing sensors monitoring, and the means to adapt the data, and respond in realtime.
This includes a COP conversion in order to start leveraging this data flow, finding small power via new efficiencies, and the ability to switch to a different fuel type with a simple button push. This means e85 and race gass tunes will be ready when called on, but best of all I'd like to sneak a Holley nitrous kit underhood, ready to go, but making sure to comafauge the hardware well. I mean to hav a semi-tuck done and to be careful to hide the new electronics and custom looms so as to give the illusion of a stock GSR to most people.In support of these luxories will be a full rebuild, top and bottom, with the usual seals and bearing in place. However, I'm game for forged rods, hi comp pistons, new upgraded valvetrain incl vlves, seats, springs w/titainium retainers and motion loss springs instead of hydro rockers, and of course some streetable but
noticable cams taking me to 9k rpm. More power isn't the point, control and efficiency are, but will bring some ponies provided the right breathing support. Its not a racecar, wont see the track, nor do I play the stoplight grand prix. I want a head that makes your eyes water with its flow numbers, and your soul catch fire while Vtec hammers away like a 200hp sewing machine. I'd consider boring out just enough to increase the 87 mm bore just past the 87.1-something stroke just to be able to say the engine oversquare, but only if it makes sense and re-sleeving not req'd. We may get in there and need to take some material away, you never know with a new car. Decked would be awesoome but can be pricey an we're already on a massive spree before I start asking whether used ohlines DC2 coilovers could run on my DB2. My car is bone stock so I need full bushings replacement, front and rear springs/struts, some street quality arms, whatever chassis strengthening is possible include seam welding and a web of bars . But we'll see. Since I'm looking for an office to rent for my trading business I just might look for a teeny single lift bay shop space with an office and washroom and renovate into the ultimate man-cave with a big screen, racing simulator, some couches and a bunk bed in the office portion. Then mechanics could come to me and I'd let all the young guys hang out to fix their whips, check where the head is at, an create a safe place for learning, esp. for me! Have I mentioned my car has factory leather? First I've seen. Anyway a fuill reupholstery is needed and then might as well o the whole carpet too, With factory leather it oes free me to get funky with my new seat designs maybe using new Type R red leather or dark blue suede - maybe the yellow? Or I could buy type R seats and just have my rears done. Much as I prefer the type R seats, refinishng my own would leave more room for creativity and individuality, unless I bought type r seats and custom upholstered them. Lastly, although I'm presently refinisng the factory wheels, I want to pick up some Mugen NR-10s - would getting them custom widened be heresay, profane or just douchy? I've got my heart set on those and yo match I'm wondering of the circa 1992 mugen crx tear drop exhaust could be fiddled to fit my car or at least the muffler - it is so damn cool looking, I have to admit. Well, that's the picture at the moment but really I'm still new at this even though a had my first db2 from 2000-2005 - I didnt get in deep because I had zilch disposable income back then. Now I'm reunited with my Elenore and I could decide college is for losers and drain my kid's education savings. Fact: this car was first registered by the original and only owner 20 years to the day after my birthday.I'm 44 so this summer it'll turn 2 when I turn 45 - which also means I can get a classics plate for it if I wait until July which is the plan. A classics plate! It's official I'm middle aged and having my first middle age crisis. It's only cost me 2k so far but if you read above you saw that I'm comitting another 20k overthe next two years even though (actually BECAUSE) I'll never get any of it back. This is personal. I love that car when I had the forst one in 2000 and selling in 2006 was extremely hard to swallow. Anyway, I'm up for whatever feedback anyone has, I'm not an experienced Honda or any other kind of mechanic but I stumble through anything but engine internals. But fact is that I have a Nuerological diusease and have been ill for 5-6 years now without let-up so I spent most of my energy and time making money from trading the financial markets everyday, online business's etc, to support my family. - and need good, honest and professional mechanics who are good people with families and then I happily pay them top dollar. I'm in Victoria BC, Canada - though working on the strengh o move
Man, you are just like me! I'm an older fart who is still into this! It's not a middle age crisis, more like a coming of age! 😀
I recently came across your channel. I just bought a 2000 crv with no compression in cylinder 4. I need to remove the head to see what's going on.
I've never attempted something like this before but your removal/install videos give me confidence!
Thank you for making them.
You're welcome! You can watch this video first if you need help removing the accessory components (power steering and AC belts and parts). ua-cam.com/video/auKaiOKNOP0/v-deo.html
Finally a good video on you tube! Very informative. Excellent job! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
This gives me the courage to pull my b18 apart and putting it back together without worrying lol your videos are very informative 👍
Thank you, glad to help!
Between part 1 and part your gunna be love saver this weekend got my bro comin to town we gunna do full engine haul over and yeah vary grateful and thankful for you and your knowledge.
You're welcome, glad to help!
Haha oldie but goodie. Thanks for sharing this! I'm getting ready to put together my 18b1 soon.
Thanks for watching!
I think I liked this already - at least it was the vid that made me subscribe. Non-VTEC B-18 or B-20 head and a cam is always the easiest and most stout way to turbo a honda. (This or a K20 or K24!)
I have a ls built on boost and I didn’t want to pay a shop to install my head with ARPs checked this video out and did it my own she crank first start amazing video literally 🔥🔥
👍
Dyam video got me felling good about my LS I blew the distributor . I disconnected it cause in the CA you'll get Got quick , any way I woke in a hurry and keep trying to start it and boom it made a loud pop . I plugged it back in and started right up but then like couple days later we pulled a spark plus to see how it ran and it died on me . Everyone said it was flooded but car sat for two years and now I'm rebuild it . Hell yeah !
Nice man, let's get it done! It looks harder than it is!
Man I actually watched every second of this video!
Thank you!!
Beautiful video. Not many people post such thorough videos
Thanks Zach
I was worried about mixing up the rocker arms but it's good to know that it's not the end of the world lol.
thanks to you i was able to remove my cylinder head with ease i will be following your video to re install after i get a resurface and replace my valve that cracked i appreciate the knowledge
You got it!
Thankyou. I need this video to do my valve seals. Your video is the most thorough
Glad it helped
Best video so far. I’m doing this on my LS DB7 in 2 weeks. Thank u sir🙏🏻
Good luck, hope it goes smoothly!
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks man it’s spend thousands or feel your heart and do it your self 💕🔥🔥
Best 30+ minutes of my life💕 I start this on my LS DB7 matching#’s any day now. Parts keep coming in🙏🏻
Hand down best video, more detail in this video than another 2024
Nice video. I've done this alot. Rehabbing f22a1. Real success involves rebuilding whole engine. Rings/cylinders . replace crank/rod bearings an seals. Love my engine hoist/an stand.
👍
awesome video! can't emphasize enough to be extra careful with those woodruff keys. I dropped one, fell down under the belt below the water pump. took a magnet to find it.
That's scary stuff, it could wreck havoc getting stuck there!
I found that using shop towels can be really effective to clean the bolt holes. i roll them up one square per hole and shove them down the hole, they are really absorbent then I go in with a qtip to get the extras but its pretty helpful.
I'll have to try that next time, sounds super helpful! Thanks for the tip!
This is when I warn folks after having a head freshly resurfaced. Don't scratch it, touch it with bare skim, dont so much as bump it. That is your sealing surface and it's critical. I know GHB agrees. That's why he's wearing gloves👍
Great how too. It would also a good idea to replace the pistons rings before the reassembling of the head.
It would! But that would require pulling the pan then getting the pistons out. It's a lot more work than doing just the head gasket. If needed I would have did that as well, but I don't have any issues with leaky/burning oil/smoking rings.... yet. Lol
Man watching this gave me hope to get my integra back up had some one work on it didn't finish the job watchin you do it and explaining it i can try n do it thanks!
Good luck, you got this man!
Good tips for those cam seals...getting ready to do timing belt and water pump valve adjust on my 97 crv
Nice, I need to do the same! Been driving an 01 CRV for 6 months and meaning to get some work done!
Absolutley awesome video!! I'm certain this video helped thousands of do it yourselfers rebuild their top ends! Well done sir!
Thank you so much!
Excellent job on the video and explanations. Top Notch!!
Thank you
I learned a lot. Thanks for the great quality vid! Hoping to buy a 1989 CRX for my first car!
I do own a Mazda B3000, but I basically just gave $600 for the thing. Honda, here I come.
subscribed im about to do a full tear down of my b20 this is extremely in depth thank you
Hope it helps you out!
I know the video is 3 years old and all but I wanted to say thank you for this, I'm about to rebuild a A1 and was apprehensive about it till I saw this, I can only hope it goes as smoothly for me as it did for you. Would it be possible for me to shoot ya some questions on IG? Kudos on the video and work either way.
Sure. Here works too. I don't have my notifications turned on in IG.
This is its own level of ASMR.
Thanks 😊
Thank you for helping me resurrect a four wheel steer Prelude :)
Always good to hear I helped keep another car on the road!!
Man you the best! After watching any of your videos makes gets me all hyped and want to work on my db8. Then I remember I don't know how to take apart the differential or mess with the transmission hahaha!
Lol, transmissions are easy to pull apart, but can be intimidating if you've never done one before. You'll probably need a bearing puller also if working on any of the gears/synchro/bearings on the gear stacks! Do it man, it'll be a good learning experience!
Jon Widmer yeah man I want to tackle it down but living in a apartment kinda sucks. Yeah I almost bought another transmission just to not have the car apart for a while. Want to track the car so maybe I'll go lsd soon hopefully!
Agreed, the landlords can bet upset too, possibly fine you as well! Screw that!!
could you possibly make a list of all the tools needed for this job?
bro I have a 97 Crv (B20b4) I thought was on her death bed, this video has given her life thanks and I too am a Subscriber!!
Hell yeah, glad to hear man! A CRV is really high on my list of next cars I want!
Your a god. Loved it time to go put my b18 back together.
Very thorough, well put instruictional video. Thanks man.
Thanks for watching!!
good stuff man now time for that track lol you just got me thinking on rebuilding my engine this vids are really good and pretty well explain thanks keep up the good work dude
I can't wait!! Nothing wrong with a rebuild, it's a great way for a fresh start and restoring some lost power from a tired engine.
Yup thanks man and thanks for getting back at me you are the only one that does witch is very nice
You're welcome, anytime!
Thank you man.Your videos are great!
Glad you like them!
Clean,simple, well explained, job well done.
🙏
I install the headstuds after the head is seated on the pins I got a d series head stuck on the studs one time and I had to cut the stud was no fun
Ouch!
this and the removal video are absolutely amazing. very in depth and now i know i’ll be able to swap the head on my b20 and make it a b20 VTEC
👍
Is really going to help me to put my head together 🤙🏼
Great info man. Keep up the great work
+Frank Dominguez thanks Frank!
How were u able to loosen and tighten the tensioner without removing the crank pulley?
if i need new piston rings, even if i do it myself, is it even worth spending all the time and effort to replace them? or is it a better idea to just do a swap?
If doing rings, might as well do a full rebuild. It's is more labor but beneficial in the long run. A swap is quicker and faster but more engines have a lot of miles on them now.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you so much.
You're so welcome!
Totally professional video. Many thanks to your skill and technical information made the valve job easier. Great explanations and camera work too. The timing belt reinstallation was the most difficult part as I didn’t know about the rubber plug for access to the tensioner. I used a fel-pro gasket kit and no RTV and everything seems okay. The old CR-V runs on 4 cylinders again!! 🙏
Love to hear it!!
Perfect video, now a layman can do it! Only thing i didnt see is how to tighten the timing belt tensioner
👍, once the belt is on correctly, just torque the bolt for the tensioner.
Thanks. Timing belt is too tight to put on camshaft rotors. How did you loosen it?
Cam gear install?
You need to loosen the tensioner to remove the belt.
@@GarageBuiltHondas 2000 CRV. May you walk me through please? Do I take off belt lower cover, push down the tensioner spring after loosen the adjustment bolt 180 degree? A mechanic is asking $250 to put belt back on rotors. I am a dummie on timing belt.
Follow my instructions in this video. That's exactly how I install one.
Nice👍 your an expert! I'm glad to learn from one of the best good job man
Hope it helps, thanks for watching!
23:21 valve adjustment
What do you think about the method of rebuilding the bottom end with it still in the car? I've seen it done before and looked pretty easy but didn't know how common it is. I often think about putting some aftermarket pistons and rods in my b18c so I can push the boost a bit higher.
Why not. You can try it. Look up "Justin Sane" channel I believe he did it.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Cool, yeah I originally saw it done on an old honda engine build dvd I bought way back in the day, a guy named "the omniman" did it that way. Anyways, thanks I'll check out that channel.
Good luck with your build! Let me know if you attempt/accomplish it.
Will the valve lash specs change when you tq the locknuts down?
I like to recheck them after I do, then readjust if needed until correct.
Thanks for the great video again john. I just re did my valve adjustment on my LS EF hatch ;-)
Awesome! I finished the video of the wing on my hatch, it'll be up soon!
What’s the difference between doing it on a vtech and non vtech .? I’m getting ready to do my b18c1 but I can’t seem to find someone on here.. your video is awesome on explaining every step.!
It's the same process but the camshaft holders look different. It's pretty easy to remove those also.
One of my rocker arms broke and to put it in spec I have to adjust it way more than the others. I just ordered replacements so hopefully that’s the fix
Hi , when removing the gasket is it necassary to re surface the head ?? , i really dont have a shop so its a bit harder to go and about
It's a really good idea to do it because it'll make sure it's completely level. If not you might have areas where the head gasket may go prematurely.
Hey I know this might be a old question but is there a way you can include a link to all the pieces you used. Thank you it help alot with my b18 build
The cam shaft holder the one that holds the cam seal to the block the one that tends to leak by the vetch solinoid
Those small 10mm bolt heads need to be torqued to 7 ft lbs.
the most in video for Honda head gasket and top end seals and timing. just one question once you put the valve cover on did you set it back to TDC to start car or is it ok not tdc
It's ok. Timing is already set. It's kind of like when you turn off your car and it stops rotating wherever. It's safe to start it again because it's properly timed now.
Did you have to take off the crank pulley and bottom cover to get to tighten the tensioner?! Please let me know
No
@@GarageBuiltHondas thank you
👍
Hey, watched this again because I rebuilt my head and wanted to double check. When you set the valve clearance, I noticed the acura service manual had a torque specified on the adjustment nut. I used a beam wrench to set it, I think it was like 18 ft lb or something- did I understand that wrong or should hand tight be used?
srarcade 27:11 minute mark. all the locking nuts need to be at 18 ft lbs.
thanks, was looking for that!
srarcade Never a pest homie!! I love to try and help, but I'm glad it was something simple. My timing gun is a harbor freight also and has the same dial which moves itself too easily sometimes. I think I'm going to tape mine up next time I use it. lol
Nice clean video,informative. Thx
would hondabond also work for sealing instead of permatex? i know the service manual calls for hondabond on the oil pump, so just wondering if that applies here as well. other than that great video man, super informative and helpful! remounting my head in a few days
Yes. Hondabond is the same, just under the Honda badge.
Do you have a video on how to make sure the distributor is in the proper position?
I don't. Have you ever used a timing gun? Look up Eric The Car Guy. He has one for a b18 Integra.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I watched his video right after this one haha. Just used your video to help me use a boost build on my b18b
Nice!! Glad it worked!!
How do you calculate torque wrench when used with extension?
I have a question on head removal. When you remove the head initially after draining coolant, will coolant end up in oil? Replaced head gasket on a ford probe and had issues with coolant leaking down into the oil and remaining there after an oil change.
It is possible to get some in there. You could also drain the coolant from the block by removing the drain bolt behind the exhaust manifold and you wouldn't have to worry about this at all.
Garage Built Hondas yes exhaust is off and bolt has been removed and coolant has been drained, just some coolant remaining in the neck above the starter that runs through the back of the block so wanted to ask
does putting the screw drivers in the holes stop the cams from moving allowing you to loosen the bolt with out them rolling?
Yes, there is a hole on each cam that it slides into perfectly.
Now this will be the same for an integra b18 yes? I'm getting some smoke from my muffler. This seems like a big job for someone who doesn't work on cars ugh 😑
Yes
Got a b20 swapped civic and I just got some new adjustable cam gears looking forward to this whole project, hopefully it'll be good after the work is done
Nice, good luck!
At the 10:00 mark next to the coolant hose where it goes into the block there is a hex head screw. My crv is leaking there. What is that and should I back it out and Teflon tape it?
Just try to tighten it up. Those don't require Teflon tape.
@@GarageBuiltHondas hey I appreciate the reply. Your channel always comes through on knowledge
Appreciated sir! I just noticed my lower belt cover is not present! previous mechanic probably destroyed it , can I set the timing without that part? I am unable to see any reference marks. Please help, almost reaching the final steps! Always thankful with you!
The crankshaft where the woodruff key goes in need to be at 12'o'clock. If you can verify the crankshaft is there, then you can set the timing on the cam gears with the timing belt.
@@GarageBuiltHondas OH my godness! looks like I cant verify that without removing that hard to remove crank bolt! Really sad, with all your videos I felt I can do it, but now I am turning my head down, this irresponsible local mechanics wont deserve never my respect, respect to you, I will let you know whenever theres is light in this shadowy situation, big respect and thanks again.
Hoping it works out. You can always buy a reconditioned head online I believe.
So you start the valve adjustment at tdc? And 1st quarter turn is cylinder 3, then 4 then2?
Yes.
Hey great video, I’m stuck with a timing problem, I don’t have the timing belt cover on so I don’t know where to line up the crank pulley timing mark. What should I do, thanks
Put on the timing belt cover.
After putting on the timing belt and when you rotate the engine, should you feel high points of pressure at particular degrees? and then once you go past those point should you feel all that pressure just relieving right away?
Thats correct. It's the pressure in the cylinder building and then releasing.
@@GarageBuiltHondas ok thank you for replying. I thought it was getting stuck and that the valves were hitting the pistons 😅. But also, belt in between the cams rises when that pressure builds up and then straightens out when the pressure releases. Should that be happening?
You may want to try to re-tighten the belt. There will always be a little slack but yours sounds like it's a little loose.
@@GarageBuiltHondas ok so today is the second day I've been running the car, i drove it for 40 minutes and I'm checking the fuel trim. At first the long term trim was +4 but now it's at +7.8. could this be because of the ecu reset from disconnecting the battery?
I just watch your two videos on removing, replacing the cylinder head and there are well done and I'm ready to do my head gasket and valves seals. Also I wanted to know how much did you spend on the machine shop for all the work they did on your cylinder head.
Thanks man! I spent $120 total
Do I need to remove the rocker arms? Or can those stay and still take the head off?
Yes, remove them. They aren't bolted down. Once the cam holders and cams are removed the rocker arms just pull right out.
If i remove the head and keep all the valves where they are.would they need to be adjusted when i install the head again
Yes. Your tolerances will be off.
if you didnt resurface the head, could you just reinstall dizzy and note the camshaft positions, so that it can all go back together without valve adjustment or timing? as long as the head/block are true flat.. i just dont want to adjust valves or have to get it timed b18 94 ls integra Thank you to any thoughts in advance
+Socknetea You probably could try it, but I don't believe it's worth the effort. I didn't resurfaced the head when I had the bent valve and it lasted only 9 months and the HG blew. Spending the extra time to adjust the valves will save you some headache in the future. You're already there installing the head, why not spend just a small amount of effort extra and complete it as it should be. I've done work like that in the past years ago when I didn't know any better and it was never worth it. But you should be able to attempt it if you want to make not of all the settings.
okay i agree, adjusting the valves are worth the effort/resetting timing as well. I think ill go ahead and resurface the head at least while im at it. Thank you for the info and the feedback! The goal is replace worn head gasket
+Socknetea Sounds good! I did exactly as you're doing and haven't had a problem yet.
Thanks to your video the hg swap went rather well. Would have been a full success had a valve keeper not failed dropping a valve into cyl 3 chamber effectively trashing the motor, piston and cyl head marred and damaged. But I learned a whole lot and had a blast honestly. 10/10 would rip my car apart again
Awesome, I'm sure you learned a ton! Makes it so much easier next time.
Super explaination, my friend and I recently did a head job on my b18a1 DA9 integra, im concerned since even after we did the valve lash adjustment to spec the engine has a much more audible "tick" sound than before the head job however my friend says it "sounds normal" and I trust his 20 years of tuning exp however it doesn't sound like it did and that bothers me, ive also tried a half bottle of lucas oil stabilizer at oil change and the sound didn't change, I'm open to any ideas.
Road Worthy Thanks, much appreciated! Did you do the valve lash yourself?
I had a tuner friend that used to run his own shop do it, but it was a rushed job at 2am since we both had work the next morning. However, I just got back from having it done by a legendary old timer NSX tech over at Tybrid Auto here in GA and she's running like a champ again, ticking is gone, and the drumming/burbling exhaust sound gone, he does amazing work and is a really great guy.
Very nice! Good to hear! Doing the valves is time consuming too, and not super fun either!
Is this the same for b20s honda crv 2001 2l
Yes, identical.
This helped me with my build. Thanks!
Love to hear it!!
Perhaps I missed it, but did you set the crankshaft at t.d.c. before starting the head removal. Isn't that a required first step?
No I did not. You do not have too. We set TDC as we put everything back together.
Thinking back on doing my head install...I realized I never cleaned the head bolt holes out....there wasn’t a significant amount of oil on any of the old bolts when I took the head off - do you think that I will be okay? Or should I disassemble everything and clean them out and reassemble?
You're supposed to clean them out because it'll change the torque values on the head bolts if there's oil in there. It'll probably be ok, but if you have the opportunity to do so, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
Do you still need to do a valve adjustment if you put the rocker arms back where they came from?
Yes
Hey I was told the rockers need to be in the right place ? I did the same and had everything cleaned up and not knowing where there are I just place them anywhere like in the video and adjusting while noticing that its too tight to accept .003 in intake side while the flat head screw is counterclockwise out? Thanks
As long as they are adjusted to spec they can go into other positions. When I had mine cleaned I had no idea which were which. After installing and setting valve lash to spec, I've had no issues.
When I took mine apart I didnt pay attention to the spring sizes, now I'm not sure what side they go on. Any help?
All the same.
At 28:58,what is that thing your connecting and what does it do? I picked up an integra with a b20 and that is missing
Your video is a bible to the b18b1
So I took the head off for a head gasket change, do I need to do valve adjustment or can I just put it all back together?
It's smart to readjust them. You can try if you have them in the exact same order but I personally wouldn't do that.
Garage Built Hondas I don’t have them in the exact order, I think a few got swapped around when the fell off taking the cams out not sure
Adjust them. They will not be in spec.
Nice Video. What was causing the miss? bad plug?
This is what I needed thank you so much!
You're welcome