Reminds me of a Welcome to Night Vale tweet: “You have nice skin. It really holds in all your blood and organs - no leaking or nothing. You look great.”
love this!! but also, not to be like a science fascist, i really hate when people say "chemicals are bad for you" when actually what they are referring to is a specific chemical reaction between your skin cells and a given product. it creates a lot of weird pseudo-anti-vax scepticism, i think. especially given that lab grown products are usually so much more trustworthy than natural alternatives because of the standardisation of concentrations, purities, etc
Yes! And not all of these “chemicals” are useless. Even if I dont pick at a pimple, I am ALWAYS left with a dark mark. I have to pamper my pimples and once they are gone trying to not have the hyperpigmentation
Ok, as a Medical Esthetician from the United States, I agree and hard disagree with a lot of things in this video. Big companies are making an excess of products, yes, But the "chemical" argument is very moralizing and tends to point people toward skincare that often isn't the best for them and can be quite irritating. Im not pro essential oil in skincare. We see in office how it does irrtate folks' skin because it is often concentrated. Another issue is with the demonizing of preservatives they aren't evil inherently. I also want to bring up the fact that they keep bacteria from growing in your products. You keep your skincare in your hot, moist bathrooms and not your fridge. Therefore, preservation is required. A lot of "natural" brands are guilty of this. And their products often have abysmal shelf lives. You are better off buying a basic moisturizer that you like in bulk that has a better shelf life that you can use on your face and your body. The appeal to nature fallacy does actually run rampant in the low waste community, and it isn't helpful. When people say "chemicals," they mean things like glycolic and Salycilic acid. AHAs and BHAs, respectively. Also, those chemicals can be considered a retinol as well. Glycolic acid is often used in moisturizers targeted for extreme skin dryness because it's not just an acid. it's a sugar based molecule, so it acts as a humectant, drawing water below the stratum corneum Salycilic acid is great for people with acne. Because it's great at killing the bacteria. Salycilic acid, by the way, is willowbark extract... same as asprin. Her explanations of what a pimple is was a but vague because it's a clogged follicle that has become inflamed and yes can get infected. We have things like those "chemicals" to treat it. On the petrochemical front. Yes, there is a presence of them because those byproducts have been shown to be helpful. If you have spoken to anyone with a skin condition that causes extreme dryness or has been on high dosages of accutane, they will tell you things like aquaphore or vasiline made those trestments and conditions so much easier. Do i think there can be some formulations that have little or no petrochemicals? Absolutely, but there are just some forumlations that are just more effective with them. Love the sunscreen promotion. Just don't ever dip your toe into the diy sunscreens. They aren't actually sunscreens and will not protect you. Sunscreens are some of the hardest skincare products to formulate for stability and to protect you from skin cancer. Do I believe you need a 10-step skin routine? Nope. What people ultimately need are a cleanser, a moisturizer, and a sunscreen. Anything else is considered treatment and should be targeted to the skin concern. Yes, eyecreams are a scam. You can use the same moisturizer on your face. Do you want a retinol eyecream? Apply your retinol to your lower orbital socket only, then layer your moisturizer. As a professional in this industry, specifically on the medical side, there are just some factually inaccurate things said, and again, the naturalistic fallacy. Just because it came from a lab doesn't make it inherently evil. Sometimes, synthetics have been proven to be safer on the skin. We may take the natural thing and alter it to be safer. Your moms kitchen recipes for natural skincare aren't always going to guarantee that. I've watched Leena for a long time, I think she has some great views on things, but as someone whose profession is literally skincare. I literally treat people's acne for a living. Who does think the overconsumption problem has gotten out of hand. I am, however, always going to look to what the science says first. Because I've seen the nasty side of "clean beauty," which isn't regulated. There is no government that has actually sat down with a committee and said these are the laws around what clean beauty means. I hope Leena can consult some skincare professionals like dermatologists and Estheticians in the future a lot of us in this field do see the waste an excess problem in this industry but we want to do right by our patients first. Edit: spelling mistakes and grammar, I'm sick, thinking takes spoons.
♥️ thankyou for your professional input! I have acne and rosacea, finding a skincare regimen that works for me has made such a big difference to my comfort and self esteem. When Ive talked to anti-chemical people about what I use on my skin I get a lot of judgement. One person told me to 'just stop using it, and your skin will get better' (this was about benzoyl peroxide for acne lol.. like telling someone to stop taking their medicine??)
@meremeth my professional input was written while I was very tired after looking at it the next morning. XD I'm glad you understood. Yes, I get the inherent distrust of this industry. Trust me, I have so many gripes with it myself, I've worked on many sides of it. It's terribly wasteful and often struggles to actually serve patients. But there are people like us who do cut through the bullshit and actually do give sane advice. I hate seeing how many people try a skincare product because it's trendy, or because Susan on tik tok claimed it would treat her hyperpigmentation. It's indicative of someone who has zero credentials, and it's harmful. I'm so glad your bpo is working for you. Seriously, your skin health comes first. Know your triggers too. And above all else be as close as reasonably possible as you can about sunscreen reapplication.
As a 30 years old woman I've been recently trying to look into both the science of things and 'what the people on the internet say' and I'm really interested in those science-informed, evidence based discussions. I also really love Lena and everything she does and also a bit sceptical about some things said in the video. I would really love a broader discussion on this, maybe with you, maybe with some other creators who have more experience / expertise in this field.
A really informative comment, thank you 🙏 it helps having insider knowledge on this industry I have dermatillomania and a small skincare regimen helps me redirect my stress and reduce my skinpicking. It also helps me avoid having inflamed skin and infections, in the event where i do pick at it :)
Especially on SPF and sunscreen but also this topic in general, highly recommend Lab Muffin Beauty Science! Michelle has a PhD in chemistry and uses it for science communication about cosmetics and skincare. She's got several videos on sunscreen, myths, misinformation, etc. One piece of advice of hers missing from this video is we do need some amount of sun exposure for vitamin D. She follows her government's (Australia's) recommendation of using sun protection at or above a UV index of 3. Lots of weather apps help show you what the current UV is with the weather!
Ty, about to comment the same thing! Love her! Tldr the science answer is it depends. It is cloudy today, I am staying inside, and have my curtains open. No sunscreen due to the low risk and low benefit of wearing it today. I am also white-transparent so there are not many days where I can go with no sunscreen lol, so I am enjoying today
She also has a great video on retinol! She agrees that there aren’t many independent studies on its effectiveness (that aren’t funded by cosmetics companies) but concludes that from the wider body of research on retinoids, there’s a high likelihood that it DOES work at least to some extent.
I'd say her early videos yes. Lately...she seems very pro-brands and sometimes gets quite snarky I find. Her more recent videos give me an uncomfortable feeling basically.
I know "don't trust your eyes" was just an off-hand comment about how sun is always there, but I do actually think more people need to understand that our eyes cannot be trusted to judge brightness. Eyes perceive light on a logarithmic scale (of lux) - that means exponential differences in actual strength are a barely perceptible difference in brightness to the human eye (hence our great night vision). Just ask your house plants. Just because something looks like it gets enough light to you, it does not mean it's all that much light in the real world. And the opposite is true if you step outside. It's brighter than you think -> you can't judge how strong the sun is.
I find the "It's cloudy, I can't see the sun, it mustn't be there." quite funny. It's like people don't have object permanence. Clouds don't just shine in bright grey tones on their own, all the light that's coming from the sky is sunlight.
That's why I like something we have in Australia, an online, in real time UV tracker available for anyone to see. It is really good to determine whether you need protection or not.
@@miyounova we in the US don’t have a real-time report but we do get the UV index with the weather apps. Something we should all be paying attention to!
Leena: Your skin naturally does all the steps for you! My Eczema Skin: I like your fancy words magic man, no idea what they mean though. Me: *drowning in ointment & medication*
I think some of the information in this video is quite misleading. I wish you had collaborated with a dermatologist or cosmetic chemist on this video as you are talking about the treatment of skin conditions. It's had to separate cosmetics from drugs in skincare, as a lot of cosmetic ingredients can be used to treat skin conditions. And some ingredients classified as drugs can be used cosmetically. I also dont see why you find skincare being a large industry bad, when you enjoy makeup and fashion. Cosmetic skincare is what i use to make my face look nice instead of makeup. Theyre both.. cosmetics..
@@axewalkWhich is a really disingenuous comment from her in fairness. Lots of us have skin issues which aren’t “medical grade” (I think that’s how she phrased it?) and are effectively treated with cosmetic-level skincare products. And even still, so many of those with medical grade skin conditions are also relying on OTC cosmetic because they can’t afford a derm! So why not be talking about us all, exactly??
@@rosey_ie precisely because she's not an expert or medically trained. It would be irresponsible (and off brand) for her to be talking about research on medical conditions or any condition severe enough to require intervention. But you also seem to be in agreement with her. Her points is that the cosmetics industry is making big bucks by making us think they can solve our issue when they not only likely can't (except, possibly, in perception) but can cause issues where there were none or make some worse.
@@axewalk But that’s it exactly! She’s not! Nor is she a scientist! And a lot of what have been linked in the description as her sources are cosmopolitan articles - it’s hardly primary research? I honestly don’t think I know what Leena’s trying to say here, other than “big pharma is bad, they’re all lying” but also “don’t give up your skincare if you don’t want to”? Big pharma has plenty to be thought “bad” of, but effective skincare has been around at a really inexpensive price point for yeeeeeeeears. I have used it and have the now-clear skin to thank them for. Does that mean that all ingredients are miraculous? No. Does it mean *none* are? Also no. Does Leena’s reading of one paper mean that one particular paper is the harbinger of undeniable truth? No, yet again. Leena is not a scientist, and this is a really lopsidedly-researched video essay. That’s not to say we all need loads of expensive skincare, we don’t. But lots of us have needed or simply wanted good quality skincare actives that have been *proven* effective. And that is not false advertisement, nor is it lies or myths the skincare industry has told us 🤷🏼♀️
I do agree that a collab with a professional on the topic would've been better, it has to be acknowledged that like 90% of Leena's talking about fashion is her talking about how it being as big an industry is bad
I think my fear of aging or at least my fear of looking older is the fear of not having achieved the things I had wanted to by the time I was 'this old'. Seeing the lines appearing on my face gives me such a feeling of existential dread because it's a reminder that my clock is running out and here I am feeling like I'm barely in my 20's without so many of the things I'm supposed to have done or achieved by the time I'm 'this old'.
I really appreciate your effort to provide us an honest and informed opinion. But, as a person who has spent most of their years in dermatologist offices for my acne I have to disagree on quite a few points. Although you have mentioned that there are people who have particular conditions that require them to put on harsher products, you don’t have to have a condition like acne. Even before I had acne and now that I no longer have it exfoliation is crucial for me as I have oily skin. There are many people who have an oily skin (not a condition) and it is absolutely beneficial for them to exfoliate. Before I exfoliated I looked like a disco boll and had countless black heads. Tretinoin has been shown to work for anti aging and acne, there is countless evidence on the matter. I think it’s important to talk to dermatologists on these topics, they are doctors who are there to help, not to sell
I think it's worth noting that the big reason why so few cosmetic ingredients have published clinical trials proving their effectiveness is that cosmetic studies just aren't funded and selected for publishing in academia. Skincare, especially for cosmetic purposes (somewhat understandably) just isn't high up the academic funding and journal review committees' priority lists. So the studies that do exist have to be funded by the cosmetics companies themselves, which obviously leads to conflicts of interest. Plus the fact that companies usually don't publish the results of their research in peer-reviewed journals because they don't want their competitors to have that information. It doesn't mean that the research isn't being done, it's just not being shared. It doesn't automatically mean that an ingredient doesn't work and is a scam. It just means that academic clinical trials havent been funded. There are other ways that cosmetic scientists can fairly confidently predict that an ingredient will have a certain effect by using other types of research and preexisting knoweldge of chemistry and biology.
Thanks, Leena! ALSO on the topic of SPF - people as white as myself or you usually get skin damage and potentially sunburns after as little as 10-20 minutes of unprotected exposure (one hour is VERY optimistic ;D) So even a factor 30 is not gonna do very much for us on a day at the beach in Spain! Whoever is reading this: Get the 50, you’ll thank yourself at 50.
And reapply basically every hour if you're out at the beach, especially if you're also getting in the water or sweating. I also just suck it up and wear cover-ups because sunburn sucks.
@@MeldaRavaniel yep, as an Aussie with very fair skin and red hair, I ditch makeup when I'm out in the sun so I can ensure I reapply properly. I'd rather be protected than look flawless haha! I also wear UPF sun protection sleeves that I can take on and off when going inside/outside to ensure my skin is covered and protected.
Yes, I work outside all day, and I wear a hat and spf 50 (I reapply any time I have break) and I also have a blistex SPF 50 for my lips, because my lips burn too. It's still hard not to burn occasionally when you sweat a lot. My boss also is really good about telling employees to wear sunscreen and makes sure to keep some SPF 50 around for people to use. I too am pale and factor 30 is simply not enough. Linen cover ups are also great for hikes when it's sunny, but a lot of them do let a little bit of sun through, so wear SPF under those too. I do get pimples from my sunscreen, so I am still on the hunt for an affordable sunscreen that is non-comedogenic. Still, I'd rather have a few pimples than skin cancer.
I think what's quite scary for us middle-aged people is that the climate has changed so quickly not just in our lifetimes, but in even the past decade. I'm in the northern UK and I find myself having to adjust to the fact that a lot of old habits, built when we were a lot more optimistic about containing the greenhouse effect (which was the main term used when I was at school) aren't really equal to the strength of sunshine we encounter now, and it has to become a habit of mind to consider that it can be a high UV day even when it's overcast outside. I started using factor 50 a few years ago because I was on medication that made me hypersensitive to sunlight, and I've just never climbed back down - it costs the same anyway.
I do think that retinol helps, I’ve seen a DRAMATIC impact on my skin. Honestly, because it’s had such a positive effect for me with my acne and skin texture, it’s allowed me to declutter a bunch of likely useless skincare and cut down on SO MUCH TIME spent infront of the mirror. Skin care is able to operate the way it does because it can create such a major insecurity, and that’s so heartbreaking
Same here. Using a retinol made for sensitive skin (from PCA Skin, which I usually buy from my esthetician every 6-8 months) has made a massive difference in my skin (that, and a weekly sulfur mask I put on for 20 minutes on Sunday nights) that I’ve also gotten rid of a bunch of excessive products over the past few years…
Yeah I've been using perscription adaplene (a form of retinol) for years. My acne has reduced considerably, my scars are lightening, and theoretically it should also keep my skin looking young. I've also recently started to include a lactid acid serum for the scars and dryness, but other then that I just use a cleanser, the adaplene, moisturizer, and spf.
I'm 58 years old. My mom (who at 81 looks in her 50's) told me that if I never started with cosmetic products, I'd never need them. BEST ADVICE my mom ever gave me. I 've never had a makeup routine, saving it for very special occasions. I've never a "skin-care routine" other than washing in the shower with water (rarely even using soap). I've now been told by dermatologists that, even after significant weight loss, even after chemotherapy for bowel cancer, even after having a small basal cell carcinoma removed from my arm, I have the skin of someone 20 years younger. Their only advice was to be more liberal with sunscreen, as I am very pale with freckles. I might not be typical of your demographic, but I try not to miss any of your videos!
Same! I'm 46 and I've been told (despite still having some acne occasionally) I look like I'm in my 20s. My mom tried to get me into makeup but I just never got into it.
Me too. Makeup is expensive aside from anything else. I was 27 before I started experimenting with it and I rapidly lost interest. Sunblock is the only every day wear
this has been my approach too! i scrape the dead skin off my face once a week when i shower & usually do a quick soap, but other than that, i literally don’t do anything and my skin is usually some of the nicest in the room. i don’t even think i’ve worn sunscreen in about a decade
I hope you're doing great still! That's a lot to go through. I definetely agree (my mum is the same, never has been interested in "beautifying" herself) and her skin looks very good. A healthy diet and lots of water are essential as well. Only thing is that moisturizer and specific types of skin products are sometimes necessary for those whose skin is very impacted by their hormones/underlying health conditions. I personally need moisturizer and sunscreen as to not burn or dry out too much but otherwise I have found that less is more as well!
I'm 45 and my mom told me exactly the same. She herself abides by the same "doctrine". Can't complain about the results not to mention the time and money saved. Moisturizer from the pharmacy with incorporated sunscreen is the only skincare product I ever use.
"I've worked really hard to like the way that I look, and if that keeps changing, do I have to do that work over again?" Omigoodness, I'm in my early 40s and this is all of everything right now ❤
Yes, same. I am at the point when my adult kids are leaving home and I am left trying to figure out who I am as a person. I look in the mirror and I am not the 18-year-old I feel like inside. I have grey hair (under the dye)! And wrinkles! And my body is changing! And this is something that doesn't really get talked about!
I think it’s a life long process of not fighting ourselves to shove ourselves into tiny fake boxes constructed by the media! Learning to accept ourselves and all the wonderful things our bodies can do even if sometimes there not quite doing what they used to (I have IBS and chronic pain).
as someone that has been researching skincare products for years, so much of this video is just not it. I agree with the most important point, which is you need a good SPF in a proper amount every day regardless of your skin tone or the weather, and then you need a proper cleanser to take it off. I also agree that a lot of cosmetic trials leave much to be desired. that being said, I really dislike the general "chemicals are bad" tone in this video and also the inaccuracies of how skin works, what pimples are, etc. let's fight over consumption and promote loving our skin and the privilege of aging, yes, but let's do so without falling into naturalist fallacies and over generalisations. just because some ingredients don't follow the dalton rule doesn't mean they don't work. just because some ingredients are byproducts of petroleum doesn't mean that they aren't some of the safest and best ingredients out there for many, many skin conditions (petroleum is already being mined regardless for literally everything. i highly doubt giving up vaseline is going to have much of an environmental impact and there simply isn't anything that comes close to it cosmetically in how well it works and how well tolerated it is for even the most damaged and sensitive skin. there is a reason it's used on burned victims). many "natural" products are actually quite wasteful and take a lot more resources to produce than their synthetic counterparts and are often quite irritating. there is honestly so much more i want to say, but i don't have the spoons for it and also I've already seen it mentioned in other comments.
important note about suncream! you have to *reapply every two hours*. even if it feels like there's still suncream on your body it doesn't matter. it's absorbed enough and skin has done general skin-things like producing oil, shedding cells etc that after 2 hours you're at risk again! (more often if you're sweating a lot or go swimming!)
A small comment on vitamin C: its main purpose is as an antioxidant, which means to 'take the hit' of oxidation instead of having your cells take it. For that purpose, if it doesn't penetrate the skin it doesn't matter, as it's working as a shield.
Thanks for talking about people with genuine medical conditions! I have sever eczema managed with a dermatologist and some strong meds. Since lockdown, this last month is the only time I have ever had “clear” skin. I’ve tried so hard to achieve this and I don’t think I care too much about it aesthetically anymore. I’ve noticed how even now I’m still critically picking apart my skin for just being a bit red. “Clear” skin is just another unnecessary beauty standard forced upon people!
Yes totally! Eczema runs in my family so I’ve been extremely lucky to have eczema-friendly skincare drilled into me (avoid soaps, fragrances, moisturise like your life depends on it, etc.) and it feels like I’m working with a completely different set of standards to other people sometimes. Like my skin isn’t itching, or cracked, or painful, or super dry, or stopping me from sleeping… so my skin is good right?
really feel the point about not caring about skin aesthetically anymore - changes your perspective when your skin can be so sore/painful its life-changing. Though I also do find it easy to get obsessive about what my skin looks like because I take a small change in my skin as a sign of worse flares to come
What I will say as someone with sensitive skin (and it’s been that way since I was a little kid) retinol has been a lifesaver for my facial skin. I was dealing with all kinds of painful issues and regularly using it for 2-3 years has kept it clear and painfree. And it was recommended to me by my dermatologist. I also use sunscreen religiously (have been for the last 5 years) and that’s my skincare routine. Lots of moisturizer, cleansing, SPF, and retinol. Honestly I wouldn’t have done it if my dermatologist hadn’t recommended it.
Loved the video :) About the clinical trials, Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science who’s a cosmetic scientist has a great video about the challenges on having clinical trials for cosmetics. Her videos are super well researched and I think provide an alternate perspective on the topic. I agree though that skin care marketing in general is so deceiving, it’s very frustrating!
Came to the comments to say this. Without a PhD in skincare science, I don't think the average person can do research on this. It's like my partner is a dietitian, and he tells me about the different kinds of evidence which is legit specifically for nutrition and how to interpret it. Whereas so many people do their own research in nutrition and give black and white advice, which is at best only right in certain circumstances, and at worst, just wrong. The human body is incredibly complicated. That said, 100% for less consumption and cutting through the brainwashing of the beauty industry!!
I might even edit your comment to remove “alternate perspective” - makes it sound slightly “clean beauty”-esque, perhaps! And LMB is a thoroughly well researched, professional scientific voice, so glad to see many others mention her as a trusted source on this topic.
Id recommend the Labmuffin video 'does retinol in scincare really work' Might shed some light on why its recommended by dermatologists to treat skin conditions even without as much scientific backing.
all the love to your channel and this new video (I watch every one). As a science friend, I would suggest when you quote a source, to share the source (last name of first author and publication year tend to be sufficient) on the frame of the video. Great quote! Would love for it to be easier to read more in the source material. Love the additional sources in the description of the video
I can’t like this video enough. I just ran out of a skin care product but I’ve been dragging my feet about ordering more. I am ready to simplify my routine and now I can do so confidently.
That's not in and of itself a bad thing as people do travel for a few days or a week, or want to reapply spf in the day and keep it in your purse, and don't want to take a massive bottle.
@@gabystringer2056 if they'd offer bigger bottles, yeah, but THESE ARENT travel sizes tho. that's all there is. it is wasteful as hell and just plain greedy. it is bad for the planet and our wallets.
@@gabystringer2056 Exactly! I'm disabled and don't drive. I already have to lug enough medical stuff around, so those things are great for days out when every bit of weight reduced in my bag is a good thing. I do think sometimes there's a mental association/marketing factor in that some of the more luxuriously presented products come in a bijou size for an absurd price, whereas the more everyday things come in economy size bottles for maximum value. So that might play a part in suspicion of the small containers, but they do have genuine utility.
I think the most important takeaway is to not obsess over skincare. If you enjoy it it can be great as self-care routine but don't feel pressured to spend more time and money on it than you're happy with. Personally I like to keep my skincare simple but effective: serum + SPF in the morning, cleanser + tretinoin + moisturizer at night. This routine is cheap, easy and makes me feel like I'm taking care of myself without stressing myself out. And the funny thing is that since developing this routine even though my skin doesn't magically look "perfect" I worry less about the pimples and wrinkles. I'm doing what I can on a reasonable (time and money) budget and the rest is up to genetics and environmental factors outside my control. As long as my smile lines outweigh my frown lines I'm good!
The section about seeing older women happy and thriving really spoke to me. I'm 34 as well, and 2 years ago I ended up in a job that puts me in the company of some of the kindest, most compassionate, healthiest and happiest women I've ever met, and many of them are 65+. We are horse people, so we spend a lot of time outdoors and you can see their age in their skin, although many act much younger than you might expect of someone the same age. You can just tell that they've spent a lot of their life smiling by the grooves that are worn on their faces. Lately, I've found myself taking a quiet pleasure from noticing the little smile lines that show up around my mouth after a particularly fun, smiley day or a night out with friends. I have learned to be careful about sunscreen for my health, but I think it will be a lovely thing for my face to reflect the life I've lived. Great video, as always.
For me it was discovering a channel on here where they do interviews with people as they progressively undress, and they include people of a wide range of body types, ages and experiences. It made me realise just how rarely I see the mainstream media really focus on and listen to people who are not marketably young, white and conventionally attractive - yet by definition, most of us humans are going to be "average" and hopefully we're all going to get a lot older... as someone with significant health problems, I'm often frustrated that it hasn't led me to some enlightened place of "every day is precious, I don't care if I'm all wrinkles, all over; it's quality of life that counts." It's like I believe that ideologically but not emotionally, which shows how powerful the messages of advertising, commerce and perhaps especially misogyny really are...
I’ve never been been this early so I’ll take this opportunity to say I love your videos !! You really inspire me to try new things and to be more hopeful about social change ! 😊
The best decision i made was to go to a dermatologist. Trying to find what works for you while watching all the ads and recommendations online was a nightmare and mostly didn't help. Now, my skin is mostly healthy looking, and i only use the products I've been prescribed and it's way less than what i was using before.
I don't care if I look older tbh, I mostly focus on keeping my skin clean and moisturized. I don't wear make-up (I was the alternative, not-like-other-girls teen, I never learned how XD), only SPF (and not enough of it. I use skincare as a way to take care of myself, it makes me feel taked care of, even when depression hits hardest. I don't think we should throw away all of our skincare - yes, it moisturizes and exfoliates on its own, but it was not made to work in the polluted world we made for ourselves, to deal with chlorinated water. As long as we don't just throw money at every magical miracle cure, observe which ingredients actually do help us (niacinamide helps me a lot to deal with skin imperfections, heals them quicker and makes dark spots disappear quicker too), we can do skincare reasonably :D Also - our skin was developed by evolution to more-or-less work. Somerimes better, sometimes worse, and we live in a society in which "good looks" are very important, looking shabby and not taken care of (or even: not pretty! for some people in some places) may impede on your career. We can change it, but it is going slowly
I use SPF, a gentle cleanser to remove the SPF, basic moisturizer, and a glycolic acid serum I alternate with a retinol. I am incapable of leaving pimples alone so I always end up with scabs & scars when I get one, and I've found the glycolic acid and retinol do keep things in check and help my skin heal more quickly. I went 10 years of getting pimples without using any active products so I feel pretty confident that the difference I've noticed is real, but I also don't think that means the products are infallible or clinically proven. They just make me more physically comfortable (and prevent me wearing concealer and beginning the vicious cycle that makeup does to my skin). I really enjoyed the video and appreciate anytime we share accurate and scientific information about these things, and also I won't be changing my skincare routine unless my skin starts responding to it differently :)
If I'm being honest, this comment section makes me a little bit sad. Usually, Leenas comment sections are full of thoughtful and science literate people, and I assume they are still here. But suddenly anecdotal experience is seen as evidence ("my mum never used product x and she looks great!" - well I am happy for all people with great genes but did your mum apply sunscreen every two hours? No? Then we still know better by now, no matter what her skin looks like) and personal reasoning ("this is just common sense"-type logic) seem perfectly acceptable. "Chemicals" are not irritants, everything is chemical. If you wear sunscreen and re-apply it every two hours, it will necessarily catch and trap a lot of the daily pollutants you are exposed to therefore you should use a cleanser to take it off. Some of these pollutants have nothing to do with the petro industry, in my area they include a wide variety of pollen (which can trigger or worsen allergies if you just smear them into your pillow every night). Honestly at this point I just hope that all of you read the long comments of the generous scientists and healthcare professionals who share their knowledge here and that Leena will take the time to reconsider some of the points made here.
Just btw LabMuffinBeautyScience did a video about if sunscreen is necessary indoors and I think her general conclusion was not really unless you're sunning yourself in front of a giant window with direct sunlight. Might want to check it out and double check if my memory is correct!
Also this video is terrifying for me bc I've had acne forever. Tret, exfoliators, serums, etc never helped. I can't take Accutane, either. Are you telling me I should just never wash my face (unless makeup) or moisturize at all?? It feels so scary because we've been indoctrinated so much to believe we need at least those two things if not 3000 other products... Well, I might try just.... doing nothing to my face except water. Maybe it'll clear my acne up. Lmao
@@janerhoadesart I have found that a very simple cream for sensitive skin helps reduce my acne, it's basically made of zinc. But idk if that would help you, too. And no matter what I do, whenever I eat "too much" sweet stuff or am close to starting my period, my skin just breaks out.
@@omolisa3783 thank you for the recommendation. I’m currently trying out washing once a day with a gentle cleanser and cocoa butter mixed with a jojoba oil and just leaving my face alone for now lol
I do wish you would've gotten a bit into how for some people it really does work... I'm thinking like Melanie Murphy, she has the skin of a 20 year old... I just imagine that some things do actually work but you can't really tell them apart because the "proves" for all pointless and don't mean anything. However if you use a lot of products, inherintly you're more likely to use some that actually work than if you us only a few... Aaanyway, that's my theory
well, I don't now about completely not using products, I think the rule should be: if you don't need products, don't use them. I unfortunately need a minimal skincare (I'm an old millennial and I can call it simply: wash and cream) to deal with my skin sometimes oily, sometimes dry, with a tendency to acne. I found out that the right cleanse and moisturizer prevent it to blow up in a messy mess (and maybe along the years prevented some wrinkle to appear but I have no proof of that). But you are right about the ridiculous amount of products they are selling to very young people when you need literally two things: to be clean, to be hydrated. Ah yes, one thing more: to be protected from sun.
I do really like the ethos and general idea if this video but it talks about skin in isolation. In reality a lot of women might be on medication/contraception etc that creates imbalances and so just leaving skin alone isn't really an option because it's doing all these it wouldn't normally be doing due to hormones etc
yeah skin is complicated. i had generally healthy skin as a teenager until i started having some acne (still healthy skin though). birth control fixed my acne completely but it makes my skin drier so i have to moisturise daily or it looks and feels bad. you win some you lose some i guess
The issue is, to avoid cancer, especially in Australia where I live, we need sunscreen. So the minimum routine would be sunscreen in the am, oil cleanse it off and then water based cleanse at night. But cleansing tends to dry out skin, so moisturise after that. As someone with acne, I need retinol. So my minimum routine is sunscreen, oil cleanse, water cleanser, treatment and moisturiser.
Nope ; the expert’s information would be lost if no one read, discussed and referenced them, so engaging with expert research is kind of key to the ecosystem of knowledge continuing.
I have always been genuinely really excited to see how I age naturally, I’m currently 32 and I’m starting to get lines at the corners of my eyes which makes me so happy. The way I see it, signs of ‘ageing’ show that you have lived. My grandpa was given a brown leather satchel when he turned 18. When he first got it the leather was stiff and smooth. He carried it every single day to work until his late 80s by which time the leather had become marked and scuffed but was also so soft and had developed the most beautiful patina. That’s why I can’t wait to see how I age naturally and why I look forward to it and fully embrace it.
Leena this video is amazing, thank you so much!!! I have a similar skin care routine to you but always felt bad because I just felt too overwhelmed to do anything more and let myself believe that I'm actively harming my skin by not doing more - I feel so relieved right now!!!
as a 33yo woman i’ve been bombarded by skincare and face sculpting ads/videos and i’m grateful to have this video in my arsenal for the next time i’m about to fall for the things that i know don’t do shit except making me want to buy stuff to feel better about myself. i was hesitant about starting retinol even though all my friends and ig skincare gurus tell me so, bc i have sensitive skin and didn’t want to literally strip it away; i feel very validated by this vid now 😄❤️
Oh my god, I turned 30 at the end of last year and I SWEAR I am getting more skincare/weight loss/cosmetic surgery ads than I was before, some of them explicitly aimed at 40+ people 👀
Turned 30 a few weeks ago and already find myself thinking about skincare and wrinkles. I think it’s from all the years growing up watching adverts on tv that targeted women in their 30s, 40s and 50s and told them they need anti-wrinkle creams. I even remember one that did different products for different age groups and I’m sure one was for 25+. No one should worry about something that is going to happen anyway, especially in their 20s! I feel bad for the younger generation that gets it shoved in their faces on social media everyday.
25:22 Petrochemicals cause global warming only when they are volatile or combusted. So the solid by-products of petrochemicals, ie; the larger non- volatile molecules left after separation of smaller volatile fuels. They don't have any atmospheric warming potential in solid state, just like how coal that's just sitting there without burning. We need to pick our battles carefully. Though non- volatile petrochemical byproducts are another revenue source for fossil fuel industry, they don't have to be vilified unscientifically and I'd much rather the petrochemical industry just stuck with the non- volatile ones.
Nice video, but I had a mind bug with the photos of the truck drivers with one side of the face more damaged than the other to support the idea that glass isn't protecting you from UVs. I reckon that I already saw this picture maybe 10 or 20 years ago in France to support the opposite idea: because the side of the face exposed to the direct light (because they drive with the window wide open, often with the arm outside) is highly damaged and the other side looks better, you can deduce that the windshield protected the other side from UVs. 😅 Confusing, isn't it?
Being unkowledgeable about ingredients doesn’t mean they’re inherently bad- it’s the same logic most people use with politics unfortunately. Love your stuff usually but as an esthetician this was a miss on some points and I wish you had brought on professionals rather than only looking for papers that supported your views.
I normally like Leena but there is some incorrect advice in here especially about retinol and the amount of need to use SPF indoors. Check out Lab Muffin Beauty Science. Lack of studies available publically is not *always* an indicator of lack of effectiveness. The cosmetic skincare industry is disincentivized to publically share actually good research.
Initially the 2.5 hours sounds bananas, I was in the midst of writing a very shocked comment before realizing that’s only 20 minutes a day. And people who care about skincare generally apply it twice, once in the morning/once at night. So, 10ish minutes per application on average. Which means if you do a face mask once a week or a peel or tweeze your eyebrows- you’re already over that 2.5 hour average That seems pretty reasonable
Right. I spend over an hour and a half brushing my teeth each week! That’s 5 minutes, twice a day, which seems very basic, but over an hour and a half a week seems like crazy talk.
@@Shetooktothewoods I’ve never thought about it that way but you’re right! Or something like brushing your hair, if you’ve got short hair it probably takes
As a pharmacist: our chemistry professor said (not related directly to skin care but health care) pharmacists should support the use of renewable energy sources, because we are ones that are aware of the need of petrochemistry to synthesise the majority of pharmaceutical ingredients. So we should minimise the use of fossil oils elsewhere, so we have enough to treat humanity’s illnesses.
Yeah, one of my big frustrations is how often healthcare gets indicted for its single use plastics etc., without consideration that those things are like that for a reason, and that behind that high disposability is a long history of patient deaths from before we had such high standards. We are some of the people society already considers highly disposable, and too often we're made to feel that way in the environmentally-conscious conversations and communities we want to be part of as a result. In the UK especially it's interesting to me how the government, while leaving the likes of Amazon to ruin the planet unfettered and relatively untaxed, pushes the NHS (always a soft target) to make sustainability changes around things like asthma inhalers. Having your inhaler changed without warning is such a stressful thing, and for many of us there's a usability reason why we had, say, a plastic turbohaler instead of the ones with the little aluminium(?) canisters containing the drug. In three decades of asthma and umpteen training videos, I've never got confident with the latter kind; they're fiddly as hell, and now I have to cart a spacer (also plastic, ironically) around with my reliever because when I'm panicking and can't breathe, that's not the ideal moment for a thing to be fiddly!
@@bioluminescentlyunfolding5716 No Person in need of medical treatment should feel bad for the medication they need! Especially not for single use plastics in medicine, when so much single use plastic is used for food etc, which is much more… I mean, sure, what’s possible or practical can or should be changed but it’s important not to lay the blame at the patients‘ feet. Regarding your example of inhalers. I took a lecture on ecofriendly pharmacy and their stance on it was: powder inhaler are ecofriendlier than aluminium can sprays because of the carrier gas. The aluminium is easier to recycle, I think. In terms of application or user friendliness both forms have their drawbacks. As you wrote coordination in an emergency with the spray can be a problem, (autohalers would be better, the spray dose is released via inhaling, but that’s additional plastic plus can and carrier gas). And powder inhalers all have a different makeup and release technique and switching between is difficult, also one should never exhale into the gadget, because the wetness can cause the drawn powder to adhere to the inhaler’s wall etc. In Germany I’m not aware of any attempts to influence the ecofriendliness on the patient’s side?
I feel medicine is the one industry in which petrochemical products (used only as necessary mind you 😬) are a clear and obvious need and provide a benefit to all of humankind. They still pose unreasonable challenges much too often (like, not being able to recycle a blister pack. SURELY we can do better 🙄) but they have a clear net benefit. And if we can also use their waste products to our benefit (hello Vaseline!) then why on earth would we choose not to?! The waste product exists and will exist whether we use it or not!
This simultaneously made me angry and breath a sigh of relief 😮💨 I have incredibly sensitive skin and have had so many types of long routines over the years. After a recent flare up, seemingly out of nowhere, I went back to basics (wash, moisturise, SPF) and have had no issues with my skin. I started thinking "was the old routine doing anything?" and now I'm certain...NO! These were the facts I didn't want to hear but am extremely glad I know 😭😂
Absolutely incredible video! Skincare is one of my favourite topics. Not in the "i want to buy all the stuff" sense but rather that I'm interested in what our skin is capable of doing by itself and how the industry is trying to trick everyone into spending money.. Sooo basically exactly your video! Thank you for making it! My skincare routine basically looks like yours! Not the same brands but I also only use a solid cleansing bar, spf and a simple moisturizer and my skin looks just fine! Also side note: Absolutely in love with your witchy setup! You put so much love and effort and creativity and crafting into your videos and I really appreciate that!
I do think Retinol and maybe even Vitamin C works. Yeah there are barely any studies, but why would there? Why would anyone put exorbenant amount of money into testing skincare, if people buy it anyway? If it's ineffective, they risk losing customers and if it is effective, they risk having ingredients banned for over the counter sales and lose customers. It's a lose lose.
here's a fun skincare lie i was told as a kid with bad acne (turns out i probably have pcos, so that's... fun): if the cleanser doesn't burn a little bit, then it's not working well enough
I was diagnosed with PCOS when I was 14, and still had to go through a round of Accutane to get rid of my acne once my PCOS was treated. I remember people saying the burn means it is working, but it didn't matter what products I used, acne wouldn't get better until I had it medically and internally treated. I still got called dirty regularly between my oily skin type, my excess melanin on my neck, and my acne, even when I scrubbed and cleansed and toned and did all the things to make my skin better.
1) I had cystic acne for a long time that was painful and also made it so I didn't like looking at my own face, because I felt like I didn't look like "me". I also had it on my back and shoulders, which was particularly painful and left me with a lot of scars. Because of the cystic acne, I did 8 months of isotretinoin (Acutane), which is basically a big overdose of vitamin A. It worked and I'm so glad I did it. But it was intense (emotionally and physically) and painful (everything in your body is dried out). It gave me a really good perspective on what it actually means to have skin issues and take care of your skin - which is much more than your face! 2) I have adhd and having a complicated skincare routine just wouldn't be possible for me to maintain long term. The energy of caring for my body needs to be put towards brushing my teeth and bathing.
I spent a good 15 years fighting cystic acne in every way I could on my own before finally throwing in the towel and seeing a dermatologist at the age of 30. One round of Accutane later, I was completely free of cystic acne and 99% free of any other kind of acne, and I remain so to this day. Sometimes you really do just need to go beyond "skincare" and pull out the big guns.
I used to “wash, tone, moisturize” twice a day because “you’re supposed to” / “it’s good for your skin”… how many times have I heard that? Now I wash when it feels dirty and moisturize when it feels dry. Toner had been irritating my skin no matter which brand I tried. I feel a lot better about it now!
I've heard that toner was invented to balance the pH of the skin at the time when washing was done with actual soap (which is very basic). Once cleansers started using other surfactants, they could be pH balanced, so toner started being unnecessary. As people were used to needing it, companies started putting hidrating ingredients on the.
Watched this while doing my skincare 😂 I totally agree with you about the ritual of it. I know spending ten minutes massaging my face with my gua sha isn't making any meaningful difference but after a busy, headache-inducing day it does feel nice.
The damage shown in the truck driver photos can also just be prevented without spf by wearing a hat and staying in the shade. I have never ever encountered a sunscreen that did not make my skin bright red and burn it off my face, so I'll stick with the shade.
I've always thought like seriously if all this skincare works as well as it says it does, surely most women should be walking around with skin that is substantially better (glowier/clearer/plumper/whatever) than most men (sorry for the gendered language i just meant stereotypically its women doing the routines etc comparitively ) 😅😅😅 makes no sense!!!! And when you just stopped and said 'good....GOOD' about the terminology not being regulated i was just like wow... nail in the skincare industry coffin for me. Thanks for all your helpful research and thoughts as always!!! 🎉
I appreciate the message that aging is not the enemy and we should be happy to live long, full lives no matter how our skin looks. There is so much focus now on the idea of clear skin as a moral achievement somehow. But I do think some of this video lacks a bit of nuance, particularly about the efficacy of some products mentioned and on the idea that products might be "hurting" our skin. I really love Dr. Shereene Idriss here on UA-cam (she's the only derm online I actually trust). She gives a really in depth overview of some of these products and how they work. For example, she'll break down every type of Vitamin C and which is most effective/least irritating. I feel she's very science driven. Plus, she overlaps a lot with the ideas you mentioned about how we shouldn't be afraid to age and she is also pretty merciless about junk marketing on cosmetics (for example, she would agree collagen is a useless product, lol).
Very interesting video. What I wonder re:SPF is whether there are serious studies about their long term daily use. I do understand that skin cancer is a very serious issue, but are we sure the use of SPF is risk-free (I have not been researching this, it is a genuine question)? My second problem with SPF is breathability. I have tried many brands and not found one that doesn't leave a greasy feeling or doesn't clog pores. How are you all doing?? I don't wear make up, so maybe I am just not used to having something on my skin (but skin cream doesn't feel so icky).
Hmm. A couple of points have been overlooked here I believe. 1, is that some people really don’t need skincare. There are those who either don’t care to use it, or those who don’t need it. Their genetic makeup is regularly responsible for their blessed good skin. Good for them. They can still of course get skin conditions or skin cancer at any point though. 2, is that there are those of us who don’t have “medically serious” skin conditions but do have skin issues which we would really love to not have. I don’t treat my very mild rosacea to please others. I do use azelaic acid at 10% to please myself though. And my natural skin regenerative process won’t do it for me. 3, the vitamin C and retinol and salicylic acid I use aren’t to make me look any younger - I care not one jot that I am aging, I consider it a privilege to still be here and hope to be here for decades more. I don’t need to look 21 for any of that time. But I would like to look in the mirror and see that I have the skin I want - blemish and pain free. That’s also not something to be ashamed of. Number 4, the formulations for skincare-specific products are specifically formulated to penetrate the stratum corneum. It’s not easy - rubbing an orange on your bare face is much more likely to do harm than good. But a vitamin c serum can and will penetrate the stratum corneum and can help many who want its benefits. 5, while petrochemical byproducts being used isn’t amazing, I have to see it as a good use of what otherwise would be a waste product, pure and simple. 6, every single substance on the planet is a chemical. And arsenic is “natural”. The dose is the poison. 7, if a person is wearing spf and/or makeup, they need to use a cleanser OR TWO (oil and water based) in order to effectively remove them from their skin. That needs to be remembered. The natural skin processes do not do this for us. 8 - totally agree on the self-massage. I firmly believe that the process of massage is the secret ingredient to many a good thing in body-related health/wellbeing.
I use a perscription topical at night that manages my acne well, and then I cleanse and moisturize my face much like you do. I sometimes get curious if my skin could be more hydrated/smooth/etc etc by adding in something else, but I did so much of that in the past with little success. I still find a lot of skincare interesting to learn about. I think if people find products that make them feel good, no one should stop them. But I agree that the marketing and just mishegas of the industry is super hard to navigate and isn't truly putting people's needs at the top.
SPF is about the percentage of UVB rays the cream can block however you still need to apply every 2 hours with even factor fifty because none of them can block 100%!
I can’t tell you how validating this is as someone who didn’t know that you were “supposed to” wash your face daily (ie more than just after wearing makeup or sweating or getting dirty) until college. People mocked me for not having a skincare routine but my skin was fine lol and now I know why!
As someone who struggled with chronic cystic acne for almost 15 years and now struggles with a very sensitive and reactive skin I rely on skincare products everyday. In the process of taking care of my skin I have tried every cookie crazy recipe on the internet and tested every product on drugstores, from the cheapest to the luxurous. I also have gone to several dermatologists and used many prescriptions medication. What I can say is that less is more and if you have a serious skin condition, seek professional healthcare. Otherwise cleansing, protecting and moisturizing is more than enough and doesn't have to be expensive.
Its a shame sunscreen is so bad for the environment.. Can you do a video on the most environmentally ethical brands for sunscreen available in the UK? I know that its (UV filter ingredients) incredibly damaging to aquaitic life and coral reefs
Very interesting video, made me wonder about my own skincare routine. Something that I want to point out, however, is that it seems you put all skin types into two categories: normal skin with occasional blemishes and awful skin conditions. I feel like this is a false dichotomy. I don't have any life-altering skin conditions on my face, but it is very oily, so if I don't cleanse it twice daily, it becomes an oily mess that not only looks and feels unpleasant to me, it also transfers to my pillowcase, which I have to change very often. I have seen changes to my appearance once I went into some kind of routine: less oil, more glow, relatively smooth surface, etc. Did it completely change and "healed" my skin, as those ads promise? No. Did it help me with some problems? Yes. What I want to say is that skincare may not be a miracle cure and you are right to point that out, but it can change the appearance somewhat.
I am conflicted! I notice a big difference in my skin when I use vitamin C versus not...and some products for sure work better for me than others. I expect the differences are minimal and noticeable only to me! I think many products the claims are for sure overblown. But I also don't want to throw the baby out with the bathwater!
While I can appreciate the idea that we don’t need a ton of skincare products, the “scientific” component of this video really rubbed me the wrong way. You are saying that you have no scientific authority on one hand and then saying what another authority said as if it were just simple fact and that is how misinformation spreads. I have more of an engineering and design background but did learn a little bit about research along the way and this just really feels misleading. I also want to say that on a personal note, skincare really did improve my quality of life after moving to a completely different climate about 8 or 9 years ago. For the first time in my life I was breaking out, it was painful and my skin was dry. I wouldn’t say the dryness was painful, but my face did feel dry and tight in a way that I truly would not wish on anyone. I figured out a routine by dropping down to a cleanser, moisturizer, and spf and then methodically adding in one product at a time w/ at least six weeks gap between and seeing if it helped with the dryness which also caused breakouts. I ended up with that same basic routine with a few more serums involved (I alternate days and only use one at a time). But all of that effort has really improved my confidence and ability to face people day to day. And I do find it pretty patronizing to call skincare entertainment in that sense.
This makes me feel so justified in just giving up on most skincare things not prescribed by a doctor. But also deeply embarrassed at my lack of SPF use
Found this so interesting - I find skincare so alienating because I have severe eczema so spend 20 minutes a day on skincare just to have somewhat functioning skin and similarly can't use most 'trendy' skincare products because I'll react to it. Would also be interesting to look into the research on some non-medical products targetted at eczema, there's always some product at any time which is being marketed as some kind of magical product or sometimes even a 'cure' even though eczema is not a curable condition.
You'll be happy to know the add that followed your video was for SPF 50 of the decent kind ;P My skincare rutine is dictated by my eczema and has all my life. Honestly I think it might be a blessing in disguise given how the industry evolved. It has shaped my approach to products, not just the obvious of fragrance free and such, but if it's not simple, transparent and tested by independent third party agencies then it's a no-go. Granted I am very privileged living in a part of the world that has several of those.
As someone with a rare and painful type of eczema, I wish people would stop researching skincare unnecessarily. Not only because people are becoming more critical of what 'healthy skin' looks like, and so give me unwanted 'advice' on how to fix my 'issues', but because they aren't using the base research. Yes, I know steroid creams are bad for my skin, however, it's the only thing that allows me to sleep at night, so I will keep using it. Have you looked at the medical research regarding the things my dermo have prescribed, or just formed an opinion regarding what someone on the internet has told you about 'their research'? Which they didn't reference, by the way. I wish people would stop using excess skin care because, at the end of the day, your skin doesn't need it. God knows, if I didn't need to use these things to keep on functioning, I wouldn't!
I definitely went through the stages of grief watching this video - denial (the dermatologists I follow surely aren't lying to me?), anger (the skincare/beauty industry is utterly maddening), bargaining (okay, but if there is a 10% chance of retinol maybe working I should at least keep that in rotation), depression (our environment is becoming uninhabitable and I'm worrying about looking 'young') and finally acceptance!! Thank you so much Leena for making this well-researched and thought-provoking video. I think I speak for a load of people in this community when I say it's so comforting to have a trustworthy voice on this platform.
I wish you would do a video like this for alternative medicine... Like aromatherapy, homeopathy/anthroposophy, acupuncture, stuff like that. Because it is often talked about like it is very anti-establishment and stuff but I've heard all kinds of opinions on the efficacy of these things given by all sorts of people and honestly I don't know what to think anymore... Enlighten us, mother Leena!!
One of the things that baffles me about people who use skincare to fight ageing/prevent wrinkles/etc. is that they would have never known what their skin would have looked like without those products. So how do they know if the products are doing what they claim? They have absolutely nothing to measure it against! It all just seems like a waste of money, time and effort to me. My philosophy is simple: drink water, eat, exercise and sleep well. Avoid makeup, skincare, alcohol, caffeine and stressing about how you look. The quicker you learn to accept the way you look naturally, the happier (and also richer) you’ll be.
The things that make people happy are different person to person. Using retinol and vitamin C to slow the effects of aging makes some people happier in their bodies. Even *gasp* Botox makes some people happy! Who cares! It's safe and doesn't effect you
Retinols all say pregnant and breastfeeding people should not use them, now confused why if the science says it doesn't have an effect 😮 (i can understand covering their butts to ensure a concotion doesnt end up on the breasts and therefore ingested by a baby, but I don't think that'd ever really happen?)
Oh man I needed to hear ALL of this. I went hard on the skincare during lock-down and now I'm in the process of using up my stash and weaning myself off everything except sunscreen, cleanser and moisturizer. I'll likely keep exfoliating too but not religiously like I was.
I'd not bothered with skincare except SPF (apparently not enough 😮) until a couple of weeks ago when I panic bought a couple of things... Thank you for affirming my scepticism, back to SPF only!
Okay so as someone living in Australia where there is LITERALLY A HOLE IN THE OZONE, I have been wearing makeup with SPF which is not SPF 🙃 coocoocool. Any advice for SPF that sits well under makeup? Most of the ones I've tried and so so oily and gross feeling that we only wear them in summer 🙃
Its interesting that most people with actual skin problems avoid facials at all costs and I heard a lot more horror stories of people breaking out from facials than it being a recommended regular activity.
I think the main thing prople forget about is genetics. It's annoying, but some people just have "naturally clear" skin by sheer luck. The rest is editing or skincare, perfect "glass" skin is generally pretty rare. I have found retinol helpful personally, but when I tried adding SA to my routine, it was a disaster. I broke out all the time, and I didn't even realise it was the cause until I ran out and couldn't buy anymore. Obviously, if you have severe painful acne or eczema or you're worried about skin cancer, you should go to a dermatologist, but the vast majority of us already have "good" skin and should be more forgiving of all our flaws
I needed this. I've been struggling a lot with adult acne for the past 2 years and the amount of products people have recommended to me that have made no difference at all. My acne is hormonal, not something that can be fixed with an OTC topical product! I really dislike the idea that clean skin can be brought.
Fab. All the points well and clearly made too, this feels like one I could link to friends drowning in skincare with a gentle 'just watch, there you go.' And I'm so glad you mentioned Jessica and her work! She's so good at breaking down the myths and harms in the beauty sphere.
I hate the consistency of most sunscreen, but for people in the USA, Trader Joe's has a facial sunscreen that comes out of the bottle clear and smooth - it never leaves a whitecast and I'm more likely to reapply
A couple of years ago when I had a lot of climate anxiety and did a school assignment about microplastic in our oceans I literally stopped using anything packaged in singleuse plastic including skincare. I wanted to find better alternatives, but couldn't find anything that lived up to my high standards regarding ethics, sustainability and effectiveness. I haven't used skincare for years. At first I felt bad (and sometimes even dirty) and genuinely believed I was treating my skin badly, but over time I realized that my skin Is not really that different. Regardless of whether or not I use products that suit my face I will have a pimple or two around my period, but that's basically it. These days I only use sunscreen and in the rare occasion were I wear makeup (only parties) I literally just remove I with coconut oil. Ive been suspecting for years, that a lot of claims made by the beauty industry is bullshit, and have seen other people claiming so, but this video really validated those thoughts. Great video as always!
Skin care has a huge class component to it. Clear skin has become a sign of wealth, because it indicates that you can afford expensive treatments and products to give that appearance, as well as the time it takes to apply them. But they are often expensive and in no way related to health. I think it's best to understand your own skin and then find products that will help it do what it already doing, and if it needs more help then see a dermatologist. Please beware of 'natural' products being sold on social media or in boutiques, they are not tested to the same standard as things that you can buy from a pharmacy. Often they don't contain preservatives and unless a product is sealed and kept in optimal conditions, bacteria will start growing and shelf life will be limited. Yes the research by big companies could be better, but some research is better than none. I have encountered far too many 'natural' products that contain essential oils and other harmful ingredients that will cause irritation because they were made by people who had no understanding of the skin.
What you said about feeling 22 and knowing that you look older, made me think about how it goes both ways. I am someone who is always thought to be younger than I am and I find it embarrassing and feel shamed by others because if it. Like if I get IDed and the person IDing me notices that I'm in fact about 15 years older than I look, I get a smirk or wide-eyed look. I wonder why that is too. And that's an extreme example but even if someone think I'm just 5 years younger than I am, there's still some weird judgement that happens rather than them being in awe of my youthful glow as the adverts would have us believe happens, with me walking off smuggly with a flick of my hair to say I was born with it. And although I'm often on the receiving end of it, I know that I'm also guilty of the same sort of reactions myself when I think other people look much younger or older than they are. Humans. We're all just really contrary AF all the time.
I'm 22. I think there's a difference between having the skin of a 22-year-old and being perceived as a 22-year-old. I'm a guy, and it's slightly different for masc and femme people, but youthfulness is associated with naivety for both of us. You're a woman, I don't need to tell you the ways young women/girls are ridiculed. Men gain more respect as they get older almost until they retire, and young men are belittled and called "boys" by superiors in the workplace. I look about 18 when I shave, so I use facial hair to look older and get more respect. But I have to remind myself that I look like a baby because I sleep well and don't smoke. For a man, that's slightly embarrassing, for stupid macho reasons. Young people who look older have it even worse. Read any article about 17-year-old Luke Littler and the comments will say he looks hideously old and ugly. I can't imagine the kind of person who everyone agrees looks young and also commands respect. Probably really strange.
i wash my face with water and put moisturiser on morning and evening. I really struggle to wear SPF as Im autistic and sun cream holds loads of sensory issues for me. When I do where it, I then use a gentle cleanser to take it off in the evening. I like the routine of doing it as well, and the cold water in the morning helps me feel awake.
Just some tips that may be beneficial for SPF and sensory issues: Sunscreens are (generally) moisturizing so you can simply use the SPF during the day and moisturizer at night to avoid the heavy double layer feeling. I find that Japanese and Korean sunscreens are more “cosmetically elegant,” meaning they disappear into the skin nicely. Some (particularly Korean products) can have strong fragrance, though. I think finding your “correct” sunscreen is a process. I went through a LOT of duds (that other people love) before finding my every day without fail ones. Good luck!
Lena, you're brilliant, loving this video! But one thing that my brain screams at me whenever I see someone sitting in or wandering through long grass is TICKS!!! It's tick season and they're absoloute buggers (lymes disease), I've already found 3 ticks on me this season already. Feckers. Anyway, back to your very informative and entertaining video!
I really love your videos in general. This feels like one that should’ve been done in collaboration with an expert of some sort, who can explain the science properly and give context. Of course it’s great that you did your own research but without someone who can properly understand all the research in detail I don’t know if you should be sharing it online, especially seeing all the comments of people with more expertise than you contradicting specific points of what you said.
I highly recommend the channel Lab Muffin for anyone who wants to further explore myths and facts about skincare and sunscreen! Personally I am proud that I have gotten my skincare down to the following: At night: - remove makeup with micellar water and a reusable flannel cloth - wash face with gentle soap and hot water and a washcloth - moisturize In the morning: - rinse face with hot water and a washcloth - apply sunscreen If you dont have a skin condition then theres no need for more than that!
Reminds me of a Welcome to Night Vale tweet: “You have nice skin. It really holds in all your blood and organs - no leaking or nothing. You look great.”
to be fair there is SOME leaking but only what's required to sustain your biome yk
love this!! but also, not to be like a science fascist, i really hate when people say "chemicals are bad for you" when actually what they are referring to is a specific chemical reaction between your skin cells and a given product. it creates a lot of weird pseudo-anti-vax scepticism, i think. especially given that lab grown products are usually so much more trustworthy than natural alternatives because of the standardisation of concentrations, purities, etc
Yes! And not all of these “chemicals” are useless. Even if I dont pick at a pimple, I am ALWAYS left with a dark mark. I have to pamper my pimples and once they are gone trying to not have the hyperpigmentation
Your opening apology is funny considering its "chemicals are bad!!!" is the actual fascist take here.
@@aj7058 lol thanks im just so worried of being all "um akshually 🤓" you get me?
Ok, as a Medical Esthetician from the United States, I agree and hard disagree with a lot of things in this video. Big companies are making an excess of products, yes,
But the "chemical" argument is very moralizing and tends to point people toward skincare that often isn't the best for them and can be quite irritating.
Im not pro essential oil in skincare. We see in office how it does irrtate folks' skin because it is often concentrated. Another issue is with the demonizing of preservatives they aren't evil inherently. I also want to bring up the fact that they keep bacteria from growing in your products. You keep your skincare in your hot, moist bathrooms and not your fridge. Therefore, preservation is required. A lot of "natural" brands are guilty of this. And their products often have abysmal shelf lives.
You are better off buying a basic moisturizer that you like in bulk that has a better shelf life that you can use on your face and your body.
The appeal to nature fallacy does actually run rampant in the low waste community, and it isn't helpful.
When people say "chemicals," they mean things like glycolic and Salycilic acid. AHAs and BHAs, respectively. Also, those chemicals can be considered a retinol as well.
Glycolic acid is often used in moisturizers targeted for extreme skin dryness because it's not just an acid. it's a sugar based molecule, so it acts as a humectant, drawing water below the stratum corneum
Salycilic acid is great for people with acne. Because it's great at killing the bacteria. Salycilic acid, by the way, is willowbark extract... same as asprin.
Her explanations of what a pimple is was a but vague because it's a clogged follicle that has become inflamed and yes can get infected. We have things like those "chemicals" to treat it.
On the petrochemical front. Yes, there is a presence of them because those byproducts have been shown to be helpful. If you have spoken to anyone with a skin condition that causes extreme dryness or has been on high dosages of accutane, they will tell you things like aquaphore or vasiline made those trestments and conditions so much easier.
Do i think there can be some formulations that have little or no petrochemicals? Absolutely, but there are just some forumlations that are just more effective with them.
Love the sunscreen promotion. Just don't ever dip your toe into the diy sunscreens. They aren't actually sunscreens and will not protect you. Sunscreens are some of the hardest skincare products to formulate for stability and to protect you from skin cancer.
Do I believe you need a 10-step skin routine? Nope.
What people ultimately need are a cleanser, a moisturizer, and a sunscreen. Anything else is considered treatment and should be targeted to the skin concern.
Yes, eyecreams are a scam. You can use the same moisturizer on your face. Do you want a retinol eyecream? Apply your retinol to your lower orbital socket only, then layer your moisturizer.
As a professional in this industry, specifically on the medical side, there are just some factually inaccurate things said, and again, the naturalistic fallacy.
Just because it came from a lab doesn't make it inherently evil. Sometimes, synthetics have been proven to be safer on the skin. We may take the natural thing and alter it to be safer. Your moms kitchen recipes for natural skincare aren't always going to guarantee that.
I've watched Leena for a long time, I think she has some great views on things, but as someone whose profession is literally skincare. I literally treat people's acne for a living. Who does think the overconsumption problem has gotten out of hand. I am, however, always going to look to what the science says first. Because I've seen the nasty side of "clean beauty," which isn't regulated. There is no government that has actually sat down with a committee and said these are the laws around what clean beauty means.
I hope Leena can consult some skincare professionals like dermatologists and Estheticians in the future a lot of us in this field do see the waste an excess problem in this industry but we want to do right by our patients first.
Edit: spelling mistakes and grammar, I'm sick, thinking takes spoons.
♥️ thankyou for your professional input!
I have acne and rosacea, finding a skincare regimen that works for me has made such a big difference to my comfort and self esteem.
When Ive talked to anti-chemical people about what I use on my skin I get a lot of judgement. One person told me to 'just stop using it, and your skin will get better' (this was about benzoyl peroxide for acne lol.. like telling someone to stop taking their medicine??)
@meremeth my professional input was written while I was very tired after looking at it the next morning. XD
I'm glad you understood. Yes, I get the inherent distrust of this industry. Trust me, I have so many gripes with it myself, I've worked on many sides of it.
It's terribly wasteful and often struggles to actually serve patients. But there are people like us who do cut through the bullshit and actually do give sane advice.
I hate seeing how many people try a skincare product because it's trendy, or because Susan on tik tok claimed it would treat her hyperpigmentation.
It's indicative of someone who has zero credentials, and it's harmful.
I'm so glad your bpo is working for you. Seriously, your skin health comes first.
Know your triggers too. And above all else be as close as reasonably possible as you can about sunscreen reapplication.
As a 30 years old woman I've been recently trying to look into both the science of things and 'what the people on the internet say' and I'm really interested in those science-informed, evidence based discussions. I also really love Lena and everything she does and also a bit sceptical about some things said in the video. I would really love a broader discussion on this, maybe with you, maybe with some other creators who have more experience / expertise in this field.
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A really informative comment, thank you 🙏 it helps having insider knowledge on this industry
I have dermatillomania and a small skincare regimen helps me redirect my stress and reduce my skinpicking. It also helps me avoid having inflamed skin and infections, in the event where i do pick at it :)
Especially on SPF and sunscreen but also this topic in general, highly recommend Lab Muffin Beauty Science! Michelle has a PhD in chemistry and uses it for science communication about cosmetics and skincare. She's got several videos on sunscreen, myths, misinformation, etc. One piece of advice of hers missing from this video is we do need some amount of sun exposure for vitamin D. She follows her government's (Australia's) recommendation of using sun protection at or above a UV index of 3. Lots of weather apps help show you what the current UV is with the weather!
Ty, about to comment the same thing! Love her!
Tldr the science answer is it depends. It is cloudy today, I am staying inside, and have my curtains open. No sunscreen due to the low risk and low benefit of wearing it today. I am also white-transparent so there are not many days where I can go with no sunscreen lol, so I am enjoying today
She also has a great video on retinol! She agrees that there aren’t many independent studies on its effectiveness (that aren’t funded by cosmetics companies) but concludes that from the wider body of research on retinoids, there’s a high likelihood that it DOES work at least to some extent.
I'd say her early videos yes. Lately...she seems very pro-brands and sometimes gets quite snarky I find. Her more recent videos give me an uncomfortable feeling basically.
@@hayl36 That's what I came to say
I know "don't trust your eyes" was just an off-hand comment about how sun is always there, but I do actually think more people need to understand that our eyes cannot be trusted to judge brightness. Eyes perceive light on a logarithmic scale (of lux) - that means exponential differences in actual strength are a barely perceptible difference in brightness to the human eye (hence our great night vision). Just ask your house plants. Just because something looks like it gets enough light to you, it does not mean it's all that much light in the real world. And the opposite is true if you step outside. It's brighter than you think -> you can't judge how strong the sun is.
I find the "It's cloudy, I can't see the sun, it mustn't be there." quite funny. It's like people don't have object permanence. Clouds don't just shine in bright grey tones on their own, all the light that's coming from the sky is sunlight.
actually. do trust your eyes. if the sun was actually absent, it would be dark. Like at night ...
That's why I like something we have in Australia, an online, in real time UV tracker available for anyone to see. It is really good to determine whether you need protection or not.
@@miyounova we in the US don’t have a real-time report but we do get the UV index with the weather apps. Something we should all be paying attention to!
Your weather app will tell you the UV index. I just don't apply it when it's less than 2 and I'm inside
Leena: Your skin naturally does all the steps for you!
My Eczema Skin: I like your fancy words magic man, no idea what they mean though.
Me: *drowning in ointment & medication*
I think some of the information in this video is quite misleading. I wish you had collaborated with a dermatologist or cosmetic chemist on this video as you are talking about the treatment of skin conditions. It's had to separate cosmetics from drugs in skincare, as a lot of cosmetic ingredients can be used to treat skin conditions. And some ingredients classified as drugs can be used cosmetically.
I also dont see why you find skincare being a large industry bad, when you enjoy makeup and fashion. Cosmetic skincare is what i use to make my face look nice instead of makeup. Theyre both.. cosmetics..
She actually said she was NOT talking about skin conditions.
@@axewalkWhich is a really disingenuous comment from her in fairness. Lots of us have skin issues which aren’t “medical grade” (I think that’s how she phrased it?) and are effectively treated with cosmetic-level skincare products. And even still, so many of those with medical grade skin conditions are also relying on OTC cosmetic because they can’t afford a derm! So why not be talking about us all, exactly??
@@rosey_ie precisely because she's not an expert or medically trained. It would be irresponsible (and off brand) for her to be talking about research on medical conditions or any condition severe enough to require intervention. But you also seem to be in agreement with her. Her points is that the cosmetics industry is making big bucks by making us think they can solve our issue when they not only likely can't (except, possibly, in perception) but can cause issues where there were none or make some worse.
@@axewalk But that’s it exactly! She’s not! Nor is she a scientist! And a lot of what have been linked in the description as her sources are cosmopolitan articles - it’s hardly primary research? I honestly don’t think I know what Leena’s trying to say here, other than “big pharma is bad, they’re all lying” but also “don’t give up your skincare if you don’t want to”? Big pharma has plenty to be thought “bad” of, but effective skincare has been around at a really inexpensive price point for yeeeeeeeears. I have used it and have the now-clear skin to thank them for. Does that mean that all ingredients are miraculous? No. Does it mean *none* are? Also no. Does Leena’s reading of one paper mean that one particular paper is the harbinger of undeniable truth? No, yet again.
Leena is not a scientist, and this is a really lopsidedly-researched video essay. That’s not to say we all need loads of expensive skincare, we don’t. But lots of us have needed or simply wanted good quality skincare actives that have been *proven* effective. And that is not false advertisement, nor is it lies or myths the skincare industry has told us 🤷🏼♀️
I do agree that a collab with a professional on the topic would've been better, it has to be acknowledged that like 90% of Leena's talking about fashion is her talking about how it being as big an industry is bad
I think my fear of aging or at least my fear of looking older is the fear of not having achieved the things I had wanted to by the time I was 'this old'. Seeing the lines appearing on my face gives me such a feeling of existential dread because it's a reminder that my clock is running out and here I am feeling like I'm barely in my 20's without so many of the things I'm supposed to have done or achieved by the time I'm 'this old'.
I really relate to this.
yes I've noticed this too! I'm so afraid of growing out of things I wanted to do so I try to look younger.
Yes!
YES!! THIS!
I really appreciate your effort to provide us an honest and informed opinion. But, as a person who has spent most of their years in dermatologist offices for my acne I have to disagree on quite a few points. Although you have mentioned that there are people who have particular conditions that require them to put on harsher products, you don’t have to have a condition like acne. Even before I had acne and now that I no longer have it exfoliation is crucial for me as I have oily skin. There are many people who have an oily skin (not a condition) and it is absolutely beneficial for them to exfoliate. Before I exfoliated I looked like a disco boll and had countless black heads. Tretinoin has been shown to work for anti aging and acne, there is countless evidence on the matter. I think it’s important to talk to dermatologists on these topics, they are doctors who are there to help, not to sell
Ok now I just need a leena video on every possible aspect of life
Hahah working on it!
I think it's worth noting that the big reason why so few cosmetic ingredients have published clinical trials proving their effectiveness is that cosmetic studies just aren't funded and selected for publishing in academia. Skincare, especially for cosmetic purposes (somewhat understandably) just isn't high up the academic funding and journal review committees' priority lists.
So the studies that do exist have to be funded by the cosmetics companies themselves, which obviously leads to conflicts of interest. Plus the fact that companies usually don't publish the results of their research in peer-reviewed journals because they don't want their competitors to have that information. It doesn't mean that the research isn't being done, it's just not being shared.
It doesn't automatically mean that an ingredient doesn't work and is a scam. It just means that academic clinical trials havent been funded. There are other ways that cosmetic scientists can fairly confidently predict that an ingredient will have a certain effect by using other types of research and preexisting knoweldge of chemistry and biology.
Thanks, Leena! ALSO on the topic of SPF - people as white as myself or you usually get skin damage and potentially sunburns after as little as 10-20 minutes of unprotected exposure (one hour is VERY optimistic ;D) So even a factor 30 is not gonna do very much for us on a day at the beach in Spain! Whoever is reading this: Get the 50, you’ll thank yourself at 50.
And reapply basically every hour if you're out at the beach, especially if you're also getting in the water or sweating.
I also just suck it up and wear cover-ups because sunburn sucks.
@@MeldaRavaniel yep, as an Aussie with very fair skin and red hair, I ditch makeup when I'm out in the sun so I can ensure I reapply properly. I'd rather be protected than look flawless haha! I also wear UPF sun protection sleeves that I can take on and off when going inside/outside to ensure my skin is covered and protected.
Yes, I work outside all day, and I wear a hat and spf 50 (I reapply any time I have break) and I also have a blistex SPF 50 for my lips, because my lips burn too. It's still hard not to burn occasionally when you sweat a lot. My boss also is really good about telling employees to wear sunscreen and makes sure to keep some SPF 50 around for people to use. I too am pale and factor 30 is simply not enough. Linen cover ups are also great for hikes when it's sunny, but a lot of them do let a little bit of sun through, so wear SPF under those too. I do get pimples from my sunscreen, so I am still on the hunt for an affordable sunscreen that is non-comedogenic. Still, I'd rather have a few pimples than skin cancer.
I think what's quite scary for us middle-aged people is that the climate has changed so quickly not just in our lifetimes, but in even the past decade. I'm in the northern UK and I find myself having to adjust to the fact that a lot of old habits, built when we were a lot more optimistic about containing the greenhouse effect (which was the main term used when I was at school) aren't really equal to the strength of sunshine we encounter now, and it has to become a habit of mind to consider that it can be a high UV day even when it's overcast outside. I started using factor 50 a few years ago because I was on medication that made me hypersensitive to sunlight, and I've just never climbed back down - it costs the same anyway.
I do think that retinol helps, I’ve seen a DRAMATIC impact on my skin. Honestly, because it’s had such a positive effect for me with my acne and skin texture, it’s allowed me to declutter a bunch of likely useless skincare and cut down on SO MUCH TIME spent infront of the mirror. Skin care is able to operate the way it does because it can create such a major insecurity, and that’s so heartbreaking
Same here. Using a retinol made for sensitive skin (from PCA Skin, which I usually buy from my esthetician every 6-8 months) has made a massive difference in my skin (that, and a weekly sulfur mask I put on for 20 minutes on Sunday nights) that I’ve also gotten rid of a bunch of excessive products over the past few years…
Do you have oily skin?
Yeah I've been using perscription adaplene (a form of retinol) for years. My acne has reduced considerably, my scars are lightening, and theoretically it should also keep my skin looking young. I've also recently started to include a lactid acid serum for the scars and dryness, but other then that I just use a cleanser, the adaplene, moisturizer, and spf.
Yesss! The retinol and exfoliating definitely helps with the acne for me. I see a noticeable difference.
I'm 58 years old. My mom (who at 81 looks in her 50's) told me that if I never started with cosmetic products, I'd never need them. BEST ADVICE my mom ever gave me.
I 've never had a makeup routine, saving it for very special occasions. I've never a "skin-care routine" other than washing in the shower with water (rarely even using soap). I've now been told by dermatologists that, even after significant weight loss, even after chemotherapy for bowel cancer, even after having a small basal cell carcinoma removed from my arm, I have the skin of someone 20 years younger. Their only advice was to be more liberal with sunscreen, as I am very pale with freckles.
I might not be typical of your demographic, but I try not to miss any of your videos!
Same! I'm 46 and I've been told (despite still having some acne occasionally) I look like I'm in my 20s. My mom tried to get me into makeup but I just never got into it.
Me too. Makeup is expensive aside from anything else. I was 27 before I started experimenting with it and I rapidly lost interest. Sunblock is the only every day wear
this has been my approach too! i scrape the dead skin off my face once a week when i shower & usually do a quick soap, but other than that, i literally don’t do anything and my skin is usually some of the nicest in the room. i don’t even think i’ve worn sunscreen in about a decade
I hope you're doing great still! That's a lot to go through. I definetely agree (my mum is the same, never has been interested in "beautifying" herself) and her skin looks very good. A healthy diet and lots of water are essential as well. Only thing is that moisturizer and specific types of skin products are sometimes necessary for those whose skin is very impacted by their hormones/underlying health conditions. I personally need moisturizer and sunscreen as to not burn or dry out too much but otherwise I have found that less is more as well!
I'm 45 and my mom told me exactly the same. She herself abides by the same "doctrine". Can't complain about the results not to mention the time and money saved. Moisturizer from the pharmacy with incorporated sunscreen is the only skincare product I ever use.
"I've worked really hard to like the way that I look, and if that keeps changing, do I have to do that work over again?"
Omigoodness, I'm in my early 40s and this is all of everything right now ❤
Yes, same. I am at the point when my adult kids are leaving home and I am left trying to figure out who I am as a person. I look in the mirror and I am not the 18-year-old I feel like inside. I have grey hair (under the dye)! And wrinkles! And my body is changing! And this is something that doesn't really get talked about!
I think it’s a life long process of not fighting ourselves to shove ourselves into tiny fake boxes constructed by the media! Learning to accept ourselves and all the wonderful things our bodies can do even if sometimes there not quite doing what they used to (I have IBS and chronic pain).
as someone that has been researching skincare products for years, so much of this video is just not it. I agree with the most important point, which is you need a good SPF in a proper amount every day regardless of your skin tone or the weather, and then you need a proper cleanser to take it off. I also agree that a lot of cosmetic trials leave much to be desired. that being said, I really dislike the general "chemicals are bad" tone in this video and also the inaccuracies of how skin works, what pimples are, etc. let's fight over consumption and promote loving our skin and the privilege of aging, yes, but let's do so without falling into naturalist fallacies and over generalisations. just because some ingredients don't follow the dalton rule doesn't mean they don't work. just because some ingredients are byproducts of petroleum doesn't mean that they aren't some of the safest and best ingredients out there for many, many skin conditions (petroleum is already being mined regardless for literally everything. i highly doubt giving up vaseline is going to have much of an environmental impact and there simply isn't anything that comes close to it cosmetically in how well it works and how well tolerated it is for even the most damaged and sensitive skin. there is a reason it's used on burned victims). many "natural" products are actually quite wasteful and take a lot more resources to produce than their synthetic counterparts and are often quite irritating. there is honestly so much more i want to say, but i don't have the spoons for it and also I've already seen it mentioned in other comments.
Getting an Ulta ad before the video starts. Sounds about right.
important note about suncream! you have to *reapply every two hours*. even if it feels like there's still suncream on your body it doesn't matter. it's absorbed enough and skin has done general skin-things like producing oil, shedding cells etc that after 2 hours you're at risk again! (more often if you're sweating a lot or go swimming!)
A small comment on vitamin C: its main purpose is as an antioxidant, which means to 'take the hit' of oxidation instead of having your cells take it. For that purpose, if it doesn't penetrate the skin it doesn't matter, as it's working as a shield.
Thanks for talking about people with genuine medical conditions! I have sever eczema managed with a dermatologist and some strong meds. Since lockdown, this last month is the only time I have ever had “clear” skin. I’ve tried so hard to achieve this and I don’t think I care too much about it aesthetically anymore. I’ve noticed how even now I’m still critically picking apart my skin for just being a bit red. “Clear” skin is just another unnecessary beauty standard forced upon people!
I feel your pain! Face eczema is the worst but I think just keeping it simple and finding what works for you seems to be the way.
Yes totally! Eczema runs in my family so I’ve been extremely lucky to have eczema-friendly skincare drilled into me (avoid soaps, fragrances, moisturise like your life depends on it, etc.) and it feels like I’m working with a completely different set of standards to other people sometimes. Like my skin isn’t itching, or cracked, or painful, or super dry, or stopping me from sleeping… so my skin is good right?
really feel the point about not caring about skin aesthetically anymore - changes your perspective when your skin can be so sore/painful its life-changing. Though I also do find it easy to get obsessive about what my skin looks like because I take a small change in my skin as a sign of worse flares to come
That's not how the numbers on the SPF work Leenaaaaaaaaa
Omg please expand, I need to know!
What I will say as someone with sensitive skin (and it’s been that way since I was a little kid) retinol has been a lifesaver for my facial skin. I was dealing with all kinds of painful issues and regularly using it for 2-3 years has kept it clear and painfree. And it was recommended to me by my dermatologist. I also use sunscreen religiously (have been for the last 5 years) and that’s my skincare routine. Lots of moisturizer, cleansing, SPF, and retinol. Honestly I wouldn’t have done it if my dermatologist hadn’t recommended it.
Loved the video :) About the clinical trials, Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science who’s a cosmetic scientist has a great video about the challenges on having clinical trials for cosmetics. Her videos are super well researched and I think provide an alternate perspective on the topic. I agree though that skin care marketing in general is so deceiving, it’s very frustrating!
Came to the comments to say this. Without a PhD in skincare science, I don't think the average person can do research on this. It's like my partner is a dietitian, and he tells me about the different kinds of evidence which is legit specifically for nutrition and how to interpret it. Whereas so many people do their own research in nutrition and give black and white advice, which is at best only right in certain circumstances, and at worst, just wrong. The human body is incredibly complicated.
That said, 100% for less consumption and cutting through the brainwashing of the beauty industry!!
Was also going to comment this!
I might even edit your comment to remove “alternate perspective” - makes it sound slightly “clean beauty”-esque, perhaps! And LMB is a thoroughly well researched, professional scientific voice, so glad to see many others mention her as a trusted source on this topic.
Id recommend the Labmuffin video 'does retinol in scincare really work'
Might shed some light on why its recommended by dermatologists to treat skin conditions even without as much scientific backing.
I don't know, man. After starting using retinol, niacynamide and acids the quality of my skin improved tremendously.
all the love to your channel and this new video (I watch every one). As a science friend, I would suggest when you quote a source, to share the source (last name of first author and publication year tend to be sufficient) on the frame of the video. Great quote! Would love for it to be easier to read more in the source material.
Love the additional sources in the description of the video
I can’t like this video enough. I just ran out of a skin care product but I’ve been dragging my feet about ordering more. I am ready to simplify my routine and now I can do so confidently.
Hahah yes, we’re all absolved of the guilt and are free to spend the extra money on something we genuinely want! Wooo!
the biggest scam is spf face creams coming in 30ml packages, and thats only enough for a week if you use the "recommended amount" lmao
That's not in and of itself a bad thing as people do travel for a few days or a week, or want to reapply spf in the day and keep it in your purse, and don't want to take a massive bottle.
@@gabystringer2056 if they'd offer bigger bottles, yeah, but THESE ARENT travel sizes tho. that's all there is. it is wasteful as hell and just plain greedy. it is bad for the planet and our wallets.
@@gabystringer2056 yeah exactly, I have the big bottle at home and take the 30ml one with me and refill from the big bottle when it is empty :)
@@gabystringer2056 Exactly! I'm disabled and don't drive. I already have to lug enough medical stuff around, so those things are great for days out when every bit of weight reduced in my bag is a good thing. I do think sometimes there's a mental association/marketing factor in that some of the more luxuriously presented products come in a bijou size for an absurd price, whereas the more everyday things come in economy size bottles for maximum value. So that might play a part in suspicion of the small containers, but they do have genuine utility.
Yeah I like the small bottles for having them in my bag. Plus trying out a new sunskin without having to get a big amount.
I think the most important takeaway is to not obsess over skincare. If you enjoy it it can be great as self-care routine but don't feel pressured to spend more time and money on it than you're happy with. Personally I like to keep my skincare simple but effective: serum + SPF in the morning, cleanser + tretinoin + moisturizer at night. This routine is cheap, easy and makes me feel like I'm taking care of myself without stressing myself out. And the funny thing is that since developing this routine even though my skin doesn't magically look "perfect" I worry less about the pimples and wrinkles. I'm doing what I can on a reasonable (time and money) budget and the rest is up to genetics and environmental factors outside my control. As long as my smile lines outweigh my frown lines I'm good!
The section about seeing older women happy and thriving really spoke to me. I'm 34 as well, and 2 years ago I ended up in a job that puts me in the company of some of the kindest, most compassionate, healthiest and happiest women I've ever met, and many of them are 65+. We are horse people, so we spend a lot of time outdoors and you can see their age in their skin, although many act much younger than you might expect of someone the same age. You can just tell that they've spent a lot of their life smiling by the grooves that are worn on their faces. Lately, I've found myself taking a quiet pleasure from noticing the little smile lines that show up around my mouth after a particularly fun, smiley day or a night out with friends. I have learned to be careful about sunscreen for my health, but I think it will be a lovely thing for my face to reflect the life I've lived. Great video, as always.
For me it was discovering a channel on here where they do interviews with people as they progressively undress, and they include people of a wide range of body types, ages and experiences. It made me realise just how rarely I see the mainstream media really focus on and listen to people who are not marketably young, white and conventionally attractive - yet by definition, most of us humans are going to be "average" and hopefully we're all going to get a lot older... as someone with significant health problems, I'm often frustrated that it hasn't led me to some enlightened place of "every day is precious, I don't care if I'm all wrinkles, all over; it's quality of life that counts." It's like I believe that ideologically but not emotionally, which shows how powerful the messages of advertising, commerce and perhaps especially misogyny really are...
I’ve never been been this early so I’ll take this opportunity to say I love your videos !! You really inspire me to try new things and to be more hopeful about social change ! 😊
The best decision i made was to go to a dermatologist. Trying to find what works for you while watching all the ads and recommendations online was a nightmare and mostly didn't help. Now, my skin is mostly healthy looking, and i only use the products I've been prescribed and it's way less than what i was using before.
I don't care if I look older tbh, I mostly focus on keeping my skin clean and moisturized. I don't wear make-up (I was the alternative, not-like-other-girls teen, I never learned how XD), only SPF (and not enough of it. I use skincare as a way to take care of myself, it makes me feel taked care of, even when depression hits hardest.
I don't think we should throw away all of our skincare - yes, it moisturizes and exfoliates on its own, but it was not made to work in the polluted world we made for ourselves, to deal with chlorinated water. As long as we don't just throw money at every magical miracle cure, observe which ingredients actually do help us (niacinamide helps me a lot to deal with skin imperfections, heals them quicker and makes dark spots disappear quicker too), we can do skincare reasonably :D
Also - our skin was developed by evolution to more-or-less work. Somerimes better, sometimes worse, and we live in a society in which "good looks" are very important, looking shabby and not taken care of (or even: not pretty! for some people in some places) may impede on your career. We can change it, but it is going slowly
I use SPF, a gentle cleanser to remove the SPF, basic moisturizer, and a glycolic acid serum I alternate with a retinol. I am incapable of leaving pimples alone so I always end up with scabs & scars when I get one, and I've found the glycolic acid and retinol do keep things in check and help my skin heal more quickly. I went 10 years of getting pimples without using any active products so I feel pretty confident that the difference I've noticed is real, but I also don't think that means the products are infallible or clinically proven. They just make me more physically comfortable (and prevent me wearing concealer and beginning the vicious cycle that makeup does to my skin). I really enjoyed the video and appreciate anytime we share accurate and scientific information about these things, and also I won't be changing my skincare routine unless my skin starts responding to it differently :)
If I'm being honest, this comment section makes me a little bit sad. Usually, Leenas comment sections are full of thoughtful and science literate people, and I assume they are still here. But suddenly anecdotal experience is seen as evidence ("my mum never used product x and she looks great!" - well I am happy for all people with great genes but did your mum apply sunscreen every two hours? No? Then we still know better by now, no matter what her skin looks like) and personal reasoning ("this is just common sense"-type logic) seem perfectly acceptable. "Chemicals" are not irritants, everything is chemical. If you wear sunscreen and re-apply it every two hours, it will necessarily catch and trap a lot of the daily pollutants you are exposed to therefore you should use a cleanser to take it off. Some of these pollutants have nothing to do with the petro industry, in my area they include a wide variety of pollen (which can trigger or worsen allergies if you just smear them into your pillow every night). Honestly at this point I just hope that all of you read the long comments of the generous scientists and healthcare professionals who share their knowledge here and that Leena will take the time to reconsider some of the points made here.
Just btw LabMuffinBeautyScience did a video about if sunscreen is necessary indoors and I think her general conclusion was not really unless you're sunning yourself in front of a giant window with direct sunlight. Might want to check it out and double check if my memory is correct!
Also this video is terrifying for me bc I've had acne forever. Tret, exfoliators, serums, etc never helped. I can't take Accutane, either.
Are you telling me I should just never wash my face (unless makeup) or moisturize at all?? It feels so scary because we've been indoctrinated so much to believe we need at least those two things if not 3000 other products... Well, I might try just.... doing nothing to my face except water. Maybe it'll clear my acne up. Lmao
@@janerhoadesart I have found that a very simple cream for sensitive skin helps reduce my acne, it's basically made of zinc. But idk if that would help you, too. And no matter what I do, whenever I eat "too much" sweet stuff or am close to starting my period, my skin just breaks out.
@@omolisa3783 thank you for the recommendation. I’m currently trying out washing once a day with a gentle cleanser and cocoa butter mixed with a jojoba oil and just leaving my face alone for now lol
@@janerhoadesartI’ve had amazing success with spironolactone for acne, if that’s an option for you!
I do wish you would've gotten a bit into how for some people it really does work... I'm thinking like Melanie Murphy, she has the skin of a 20 year old... I just imagine that some things do actually work but you can't really tell them apart because the "proves" for all pointless and don't mean anything. However if you use a lot of products, inherintly you're more likely to use some that actually work than if you us only a few... Aaanyway, that's my theory
This also explains why the men in my life barely wash their faces and yet have perfect skin
Bingo
Surely there are other factors involved. Hormones being one of them ;)
They have way thicker skin and peoduce more sebum. So skin looks clearer and nicer generally @@zwaanisdenaam
They might also just have good skin without skin problems...I know plenty of men with eczema etc
Yes repliers I agree, it's just a casual observation 💜
well, I don't now about completely not using products, I think the rule should be: if you don't need products, don't use them. I unfortunately need a minimal skincare (I'm an old millennial and I can call it simply: wash and cream) to deal with my skin sometimes oily, sometimes dry, with a tendency to acne. I found out that the right cleanse and moisturizer prevent it to blow up in a messy mess (and maybe along the years prevented some wrinkle to appear but I have no proof of that). But you are right about the ridiculous amount of products they are selling to very young people when you need literally two things: to be clean, to be hydrated. Ah yes, one thing more: to be protected from sun.
I do really like the ethos and general idea if this video but it talks about skin in isolation. In reality a lot of women might be on medication/contraception etc that creates imbalances and so just leaving skin alone isn't really an option because it's doing all these it wouldn't normally be doing due to hormones etc
yeah skin is complicated. i had generally healthy skin as a teenager until i started having some acne (still healthy skin though). birth control fixed my acne completely but it makes my skin drier so i have to moisturise daily or it looks and feels bad. you win some you lose some i guess
The issue is, to avoid cancer, especially in Australia where I live, we need sunscreen. So the minimum routine would be sunscreen in the am, oil cleanse it off and then water based cleanse at night. But cleansing tends to dry out skin, so moisturise after that.
As someone with acne, I need retinol.
So my minimum routine is sunscreen, oil cleanse, water cleanser, treatment and moisturiser.
do you ever feel like its weird for you to be commenting on science when you are clearly not an expert?
Nope ; the expert’s information would be lost if no one read, discussed and referenced them, so engaging with expert research is kind of key to the ecosystem of knowledge continuing.
I have always been genuinely really excited to see how I age naturally, I’m currently 32 and I’m starting to get lines at the corners of my eyes which makes me so happy. The way I see it, signs of ‘ageing’ show that you have lived.
My grandpa was given a brown leather satchel when he turned 18. When he first got it the leather was stiff and smooth. He carried it every single day to work until his late 80s by which time the leather had become marked and scuffed but was also so soft and had developed the most beautiful patina. That’s why I can’t wait to see how I age naturally and why I look forward to it and fully embrace it.
Leena this video is amazing, thank you so much!!! I have a similar skin care routine to you but always felt bad because I just felt too overwhelmed to do anything more and let myself believe that I'm actively harming my skin by not doing more - I feel so relieved right now!!!
as a 33yo woman i’ve been bombarded by skincare and face sculpting ads/videos and i’m grateful to have this video in my arsenal for the next time i’m about to fall for the things that i know don’t do shit except making me want to buy stuff to feel better about myself. i was hesitant about starting retinol even though all my friends and ig skincare gurus tell me so, bc i have sensitive skin and didn’t want to literally strip it away; i feel very validated by this vid now 😄❤️
Same! I'm literally getting cosmetic surgery ads now which is so wrong!
Oh my god, I turned 30 at the end of last year and I SWEAR I am getting more skincare/weight loss/cosmetic surgery ads than I was before, some of them explicitly aimed at 40+ people 👀
Turned 30 a few weeks ago and already find myself thinking about skincare and wrinkles. I think it’s from all the years growing up watching adverts on tv that targeted women in their 30s, 40s and 50s and told them they need anti-wrinkle creams. I even remember one that did different products for different age groups and I’m sure one was for 25+. No one should worry about something that is going to happen anyway, especially in their 20s! I feel bad for the younger generation that gets it shoved in their faces on social media everyday.
25:22 Petrochemicals cause global warming only when they are volatile or combusted. So the solid by-products of petrochemicals, ie; the larger non- volatile molecules left after separation of smaller volatile fuels. They don't have any atmospheric warming potential in solid state, just like how coal that's just sitting there without burning.
We need to pick our battles carefully. Though non- volatile petrochemical byproducts are another revenue source for fossil fuel industry, they don't have to be vilified unscientifically and I'd much rather the petrochemical industry just stuck with the non- volatile ones.
Nice video, but I had a mind bug with the photos of the truck drivers with one side of the face more damaged than the other to support the idea that glass isn't protecting you from UVs. I reckon that I already saw this picture maybe 10 or 20 years ago in France to support the opposite idea: because the side of the face exposed to the direct light (because they drive with the window wide open, often with the arm outside) is highly damaged and the other side looks better, you can deduce that the windshield protected the other side from UVs. 😅
Confusing, isn't it?
Being unkowledgeable about ingredients doesn’t mean they’re inherently bad- it’s the same logic most people use with politics unfortunately. Love your stuff usually but as an esthetician this was a miss on some points and I wish you had brought on professionals rather than only looking for papers that supported your views.
I normally like Leena but there is some incorrect advice in here especially about retinol and the amount of need to use SPF indoors. Check out Lab Muffin Beauty Science. Lack of studies available publically is not *always* an indicator of lack of effectiveness. The cosmetic skincare industry is disincentivized to publically share actually good research.
It’s such a good idea that our bodies actually came up with the idea millennia ago… I love your wit!
Initially the 2.5 hours sounds bananas, I was in the midst of writing a very shocked comment before realizing that’s only 20 minutes a day.
And people who care about skincare generally apply it twice, once in the morning/once at night. So, 10ish minutes per application on average. Which means if you do a face mask once a week or a peel or tweeze your eyebrows- you’re already over that 2.5 hour average
That seems pretty reasonable
Right. I spend over an hour and a half brushing my teeth each week! That’s 5 minutes, twice a day, which seems very basic, but over an hour and a half a week seems like crazy talk.
@@Shetooktothewoods I’ve never thought about it that way but you’re right! Or something like brushing your hair, if you’ve got short hair it probably takes
As a pharmacist: our chemistry professor said (not related directly to skin care but health care) pharmacists should support the use of renewable energy sources, because we are ones that are aware of the need of petrochemistry to synthesise the majority of pharmaceutical ingredients. So we should minimise the use of fossil oils elsewhere, so we have enough to treat humanity’s illnesses.
Yeah, one of my big frustrations is how often healthcare gets indicted for its single use plastics etc., without consideration that those things are like that for a reason, and that behind that high disposability is a long history of patient deaths from before we had such high standards. We are some of the people society already considers highly disposable, and too often we're made to feel that way in the environmentally-conscious conversations and communities we want to be part of as a result.
In the UK especially it's interesting to me how the government, while leaving the likes of Amazon to ruin the planet unfettered and relatively untaxed, pushes the NHS (always a soft target) to make sustainability changes around things like asthma inhalers.
Having your inhaler changed without warning is such a stressful thing, and for many of us there's a usability reason why we had, say, a plastic turbohaler instead of the ones with the little aluminium(?) canisters containing the drug. In three decades of asthma and umpteen training videos, I've never got confident with the latter kind; they're fiddly as hell, and now I have to cart a spacer (also plastic, ironically) around with my reliever because when I'm panicking and can't breathe, that's not the ideal moment for a thing to be fiddly!
@@bioluminescentlyunfolding5716 No Person in need of medical treatment should feel bad for the medication they need! Especially not for single use plastics in medicine, when so much single use plastic is used for food etc, which is much more… I mean, sure, what’s possible or practical can or should be changed but it’s important not to lay the blame at the patients‘ feet.
Regarding your example of inhalers. I took a lecture on ecofriendly pharmacy and their stance on it was: powder inhaler are ecofriendlier than aluminium can sprays because of the carrier gas.
The aluminium is easier to recycle, I think. In terms of application or user friendliness both forms have their drawbacks. As you wrote coordination in an emergency with the spray can be a problem, (autohalers would be better, the spray dose is released via inhaling, but that’s additional plastic plus can and carrier gas). And powder inhalers all have a different makeup and release technique and switching between is difficult, also one should never exhale into the gadget, because the wetness can cause the drawn powder to adhere to the inhaler’s wall etc.
In Germany I’m not aware of any attempts to influence the ecofriendliness on the patient’s side?
I feel medicine is the one industry in which petrochemical products (used only as necessary mind you 😬) are a clear and obvious need and provide a benefit to all of humankind. They still pose unreasonable challenges much too often (like, not being able to recycle a blister pack. SURELY we can do better 🙄) but they have a clear net benefit. And if we can also use their waste products to our benefit (hello Vaseline!) then why on earth would we choose not to?! The waste product exists and will exist whether we use it or not!
This simultaneously made me angry and breath a sigh of relief 😮💨 I have incredibly sensitive skin and have had so many types of long routines over the years. After a recent flare up, seemingly out of nowhere, I went back to basics (wash, moisturise, SPF) and have had no issues with my skin. I started thinking "was the old routine doing anything?" and now I'm certain...NO! These were the facts I didn't want to hear but am extremely glad I know 😭😂
Absolutely incredible video! Skincare is one of my favourite topics. Not in the "i want to buy all the stuff" sense but rather that I'm interested in what our skin is capable of doing by itself and how the industry is trying to trick everyone into spending money.. Sooo basically exactly your video! Thank you for making it!
My skincare routine basically looks like yours! Not the same brands but I also only use a solid cleansing bar, spf and a simple moisturizer and my skin looks just fine!
Also side note: Absolutely in love with your witchy setup! You put so much love and effort and creativity and crafting into your videos and I really appreciate that!
I do think Retinol and maybe even Vitamin C works. Yeah there are barely any studies, but why would there? Why would anyone put exorbenant amount of money into testing skincare, if people buy it anyway? If it's ineffective, they risk losing customers and if it is effective, they risk having ingredients banned for over the counter sales and lose customers. It's a lose lose.
here's a fun skincare lie i was told as a kid with bad acne (turns out i probably have pcos, so that's... fun): if the cleanser doesn't burn a little bit, then it's not working well enough
I was diagnosed with PCOS when I was 14, and still had to go through a round of Accutane to get rid of my acne once my PCOS was treated. I remember people saying the burn means it is working, but it didn't matter what products I used, acne wouldn't get better until I had it medically and internally treated. I still got called dirty regularly between my oily skin type, my excess melanin on my neck, and my acne, even when I scrubbed and cleansed and toned and did all the things to make my skin better.
Omg thank you so much. I recently went cold turkey on all my skincare because I realised the BS. Thank you for sharing about the lies 😩
1) I had cystic acne for a long time that was painful and also made it so I didn't like looking at my own face, because I felt like I didn't look like "me". I also had it on my back and shoulders, which was particularly painful and left me with a lot of scars. Because of the cystic acne, I did 8 months of isotretinoin (Acutane), which is basically a big overdose of vitamin A. It worked and I'm so glad I did it. But it was intense (emotionally and physically) and painful (everything in your body is dried out). It gave me a really good perspective on what it actually means to have skin issues and take care of your skin - which is much more than your face!
2) I have adhd and having a complicated skincare routine just wouldn't be possible for me to maintain long term. The energy of caring for my body needs to be put towards brushing my teeth and bathing.
I spent a good 15 years fighting cystic acne in every way I could on my own before finally throwing in the towel and seeing a dermatologist at the age of 30. One round of Accutane later, I was completely free of cystic acne and 99% free of any other kind of acne, and I remain so to this day. Sometimes you really do just need to go beyond "skincare" and pull out the big guns.
I used to “wash, tone, moisturize” twice a day because “you’re supposed to” / “it’s good for your skin”… how many times have I heard that? Now I wash when it feels dirty and moisturize when it feels dry. Toner had been irritating my skin no matter which brand I tried. I feel a lot better about it now!
I've heard that toner was invented to balance the pH of the skin at the time when washing was done with actual soap (which is very basic). Once cleansers started using other surfactants, they could be pH balanced, so toner started being unnecessary. As people were used to needing it, companies started putting hidrating ingredients on the.
no one needs "toner". It's a complete scam.
Watched this while doing my skincare 😂 I totally agree with you about the ritual of it. I know spending ten minutes massaging my face with my gua sha isn't making any meaningful difference but after a busy, headache-inducing day it does feel nice.
The damage shown in the truck driver photos can also just be prevented without spf by wearing a hat and staying in the shade. I have never ever encountered a sunscreen that did not make my skin bright red and burn it off my face, so I'll stick with the shade.
I have a similar experience with SPF, sadly
I've always thought like seriously if all this skincare works as well as it says it does, surely most women should be walking around with skin that is substantially better (glowier/clearer/plumper/whatever) than most men (sorry for the gendered language i just meant stereotypically its women doing the routines etc comparitively ) 😅😅😅 makes no sense!!!! And when you just stopped and said 'good....GOOD' about the terminology not being regulated i was just like wow... nail in the skincare industry coffin for me. Thanks for all your helpful research and thoughts as always!!! 🎉
I appreciate the message that aging is not the enemy and we should be happy to live long, full lives no matter how our skin looks. There is so much focus now on the idea of clear skin as a moral achievement somehow. But I do think some of this video lacks a bit of nuance, particularly about the efficacy of some products mentioned and on the idea that products might be "hurting" our skin. I really love Dr. Shereene Idriss here on UA-cam (she's the only derm online I actually trust). She gives a really in depth overview of some of these products and how they work. For example, she'll break down every type of Vitamin C and which is most effective/least irritating. I feel she's very science driven. Plus, she overlaps a lot with the ideas you mentioned about how we shouldn't be afraid to age and she is also pretty merciless about junk marketing on cosmetics (for example, she would agree collagen is a useless product, lol).
Very interesting video. What I wonder re:SPF is whether there are serious studies about their long term daily use. I do understand that skin cancer is a very serious issue, but are we sure the use of SPF is risk-free (I have not been researching this, it is a genuine question)? My second problem with SPF is breathability. I have tried many brands and not found one that doesn't leave a greasy feeling or doesn't clog pores. How are you all doing?? I don't wear make up, so maybe I am just not used to having something on my skin (but skin cream doesn't feel so icky).
Hmm. A couple of points have been overlooked here I believe.
1, is that some people really don’t need skincare. There are those who either don’t care to use it, or those who don’t need it. Their genetic makeup is regularly responsible for their blessed good skin. Good for them. They can still of course get skin conditions or skin cancer at any point though.
2, is that there are those of us who don’t have “medically serious” skin conditions but do have skin issues which we would really love to not have. I don’t treat my very mild rosacea to please others. I do use azelaic acid at 10% to please myself though. And my natural skin regenerative process won’t do it for me.
3, the vitamin C and retinol and salicylic acid I use aren’t to make me look any younger - I care not one jot that I am aging, I consider it a privilege to still be here and hope to be here for decades more. I don’t need to look 21 for any of that time. But I would like to look in the mirror and see that I have the skin I want - blemish and pain free. That’s also not something to be ashamed of.
Number 4, the formulations for skincare-specific products are specifically formulated to penetrate the stratum corneum. It’s not easy - rubbing an orange on your bare face is much more likely to do harm than good. But a vitamin c serum can and will penetrate the stratum corneum and can help many who want its benefits.
5, while petrochemical byproducts being used isn’t amazing, I have to see it as a good use of what otherwise would be a waste product, pure and simple.
6, every single substance on the planet is a chemical. And arsenic is “natural”. The dose is the poison.
7, if a person is wearing spf and/or makeup, they need to use a cleanser OR TWO (oil and water based) in order to effectively remove them from their skin. That needs to be remembered. The natural skin processes do not do this for us.
8 - totally agree on the self-massage. I firmly believe that the process of massage is the secret ingredient to many a good thing in body-related health/wellbeing.
I use a perscription topical at night that manages my acne well, and then I cleanse and moisturize my face much like you do. I sometimes get curious if my skin could be more hydrated/smooth/etc etc by adding in something else, but I did so much of that in the past with little success. I still find a lot of skincare interesting to learn about. I think if people find products that make them feel good, no one should stop them. But I agree that the marketing and just mishegas of the industry is super hard to navigate and isn't truly putting people's needs at the top.
SPF is about the percentage of UVB rays the cream can block however you still need to apply every 2 hours with even factor fifty because none of them can block 100%!
I can’t tell you how validating this is as someone who didn’t know that you were “supposed to” wash your face daily (ie more than just after wearing makeup or sweating or getting dirty) until college. People mocked me for not having a skincare routine but my skin was fine lol and now I know why!
As someone who struggled with chronic cystic acne for almost 15 years and now struggles with a very sensitive and reactive skin I rely on skincare products everyday. In the process of taking care of my skin I have tried every cookie crazy recipe on the internet and tested every product on drugstores, from the cheapest to the luxurous. I also have gone to several dermatologists and used many prescriptions medication. What I can say is that less is more and if you have a serious skin condition, seek professional healthcare. Otherwise cleansing, protecting and moisturizing is more than enough and doesn't have to be expensive.
Its a shame sunscreen is so bad for the environment.. Can you do a video on the most environmentally ethical brands for sunscreen available in the UK? I know that its (UV filter ingredients) incredibly damaging to aquaitic life and coral reefs
Very interesting video, made me wonder about my own skincare routine. Something that I want to point out, however, is that it seems you put all skin types into two categories: normal skin with occasional blemishes and awful skin conditions. I feel like this is a false dichotomy.
I don't have any life-altering skin conditions on my face, but it is very oily, so if I don't cleanse it twice daily, it becomes an oily mess that not only looks and feels unpleasant to me, it also transfers to my pillowcase, which I have to change very often. I have seen changes to my appearance once I went into some kind of routine: less oil, more glow, relatively smooth surface, etc. Did it completely change and "healed" my skin, as those ads promise? No. Did it help me with some problems? Yes.
What I want to say is that skincare may not be a miracle cure and you are right to point that out, but it can change the appearance somewhat.
I am conflicted! I notice a big difference in my skin when I use vitamin C versus not...and some products for sure work better for me than others. I expect the differences are minimal and noticeable only to me! I think many products the claims are for sure overblown. But I also don't want to throw the baby out with the bathwater!
While I can appreciate the idea that we don’t need a ton of skincare products, the “scientific” component of this video really rubbed me the wrong way. You are saying that you have no scientific authority on one hand and then saying what another authority said as if it were just simple fact and that is how misinformation spreads. I have more of an engineering and design background but did learn a little bit about research along the way and this just really feels misleading.
I also want to say that on a personal note, skincare really did improve my quality of life after moving to a completely different climate about 8 or 9 years ago. For the first time in my life I was breaking out, it was painful and my skin was dry. I wouldn’t say the dryness was painful, but my face did feel dry and tight in a way that I truly would not wish on anyone. I figured out a routine by dropping down to a cleanser, moisturizer, and spf and then methodically adding in one product at a time w/ at least six weeks gap between and seeing if it helped with the dryness which also caused breakouts. I ended up with that same basic routine with a few more serums involved (I alternate days and only use one at a time). But all of that effort has really improved my confidence and ability to face people day to day. And I do find it pretty patronizing to call skincare entertainment in that sense.
This makes me feel so justified in just giving up on most skincare things not prescribed by a doctor. But also deeply embarrassed at my lack of SPF use
Found this so interesting - I find skincare so alienating because I have severe eczema so spend 20 minutes a day on skincare just to have somewhat functioning skin and similarly can't use most 'trendy' skincare products because I'll react to it. Would also be interesting to look into the research on some non-medical products targetted at eczema, there's always some product at any time which is being marketed as some kind of magical product or sometimes even a 'cure' even though eczema is not a curable condition.
You'll be happy to know the add that followed your video was for SPF 50 of the decent kind ;P My skincare rutine is dictated by my eczema and has all my life. Honestly I think it might be a blessing in disguise given how the industry evolved. It has shaped my approach to products, not just the obvious of fragrance free and such, but if it's not simple, transparent and tested by independent third party agencies then it's a no-go. Granted I am very privileged living in a part of the world that has several of those.
As someone with a rare and painful type of eczema, I wish people would stop researching skincare unnecessarily. Not only because people are becoming more critical of what 'healthy skin' looks like, and so give me unwanted 'advice' on how to fix my 'issues', but because they aren't using the base research. Yes, I know steroid creams are bad for my skin, however, it's the only thing that allows me to sleep at night, so I will keep using it. Have you looked at the medical research regarding the things my dermo have prescribed, or just formed an opinion regarding what someone on the internet has told you about 'their research'? Which they didn't reference, by the way. I wish people would stop using excess skin care because, at the end of the day, your skin doesn't need it. God knows, if I didn't need to use these things to keep on functioning, I wouldn't!
Hi, tnx for the video! Does anyone know which study she is talking about at 15:08? Or can anyone find a reference?
I definitely went through the stages of grief watching this video - denial (the dermatologists I follow surely aren't lying to me?), anger (the skincare/beauty industry is utterly maddening), bargaining (okay, but if there is a 10% chance of retinol maybe working I should at least keep that in rotation), depression (our environment is becoming uninhabitable and I'm worrying about looking 'young') and finally acceptance!! Thank you so much Leena for making this well-researched and thought-provoking video. I think I speak for a load of people in this community when I say it's so comforting to have a trustworthy voice on this platform.
I wish you would do a video like this for alternative medicine... Like aromatherapy, homeopathy/anthroposophy, acupuncture, stuff like that. Because it is often talked about like it is very anti-establishment and stuff but I've heard all kinds of opinions on the efficacy of these things given by all sorts of people and honestly I don't know what to think anymore... Enlighten us, mother Leena!!
One of the things that baffles me about people who use skincare to fight ageing/prevent wrinkles/etc. is that they would have never known what their skin would have looked like without those products. So how do they know if the products are doing what they claim? They have absolutely nothing to measure it against! It all just seems like a waste of money, time and effort to me.
My philosophy is simple: drink water, eat, exercise and sleep well. Avoid makeup, skincare, alcohol, caffeine and stressing about how you look. The quicker you learn to accept the way you look naturally, the happier (and also richer) you’ll be.
The things that make people happy are different person to person. Using retinol and vitamin C to slow the effects of aging makes some people happier in their bodies. Even *gasp* Botox makes some people happy! Who cares! It's safe and doesn't effect you
Retinols all say pregnant and breastfeeding people should not use them, now confused why if the science says it doesn't have an effect 😮 (i can understand covering their butts to ensure a concotion doesnt end up on the breasts and therefore ingested by a baby, but I don't think that'd ever really happen?)
Oh man I needed to hear ALL of this. I went hard on the skincare during lock-down and now I'm in the process of using up my stash and weaning myself off everything except sunscreen, cleanser and moisturizer. I'll likely keep exfoliating too but not religiously like I was.
I'd not bothered with skincare except SPF (apparently not enough 😮) until a couple of weeks ago when I panic bought a couple of things... Thank you for affirming my scepticism, back to SPF only!
Okay so as someone living in Australia where there is LITERALLY A HOLE IN THE OZONE, I have been wearing makeup with SPF which is not SPF 🙃 coocoocool.
Any advice for SPF that sits well under makeup? Most of the ones I've tried and so so oily and gross feeling that we only wear them in summer 🙃
Its interesting that most people with actual skin problems avoid facials at all costs and I heard a lot more horror stories of people breaking out from facials than it being a recommended regular activity.
I think the main thing prople forget about is genetics. It's annoying, but some people just have "naturally clear" skin by sheer luck. The rest is editing or skincare, perfect "glass" skin is generally pretty rare. I have found retinol helpful personally, but when I tried adding SA to my routine, it was a disaster. I broke out all the time, and I didn't even realise it was the cause until I ran out and couldn't buy anymore. Obviously, if you have severe painful acne or eczema or you're worried about skin cancer, you should go to a dermatologist, but the vast majority of us already have "good" skin and should be more forgiving of all our flaws
I needed this. I've been struggling a lot with adult acne for the past 2 years and the amount of products people have recommended to me that have made no difference at all. My acne is hormonal, not something that can be fixed with an OTC topical product! I really dislike the idea that clean skin can be brought.
Fab. All the points well and clearly made too, this feels like one I could link to friends drowning in skincare with a gentle 'just watch, there you go.' And I'm so glad you mentioned Jessica and her work! She's so good at breaking down the myths and harms in the beauty sphere.
As a person who has a chronic life altering skin condition, this is such a refreshing video! Thanks so much for this video. I really enjoyed it ❤
I hate the consistency of most sunscreen, but for people in the USA, Trader Joe's has a facial sunscreen that comes out of the bottle clear and smooth - it never leaves a whitecast and I'm more likely to reapply
A couple of years ago when I had a lot of climate anxiety and did a school assignment about microplastic in our oceans I literally stopped using anything packaged in singleuse plastic including skincare. I wanted to find better alternatives, but couldn't find anything that lived up to my high standards regarding ethics, sustainability and effectiveness. I haven't used skincare for years. At first I felt bad (and sometimes even dirty) and genuinely believed I was treating my skin badly, but over time I realized that my skin Is not really that different. Regardless of whether or not I use products that suit my face I will have a pimple or two around my period, but that's basically it. These days I only use sunscreen and in the rare occasion were I wear makeup (only parties) I literally just remove I with coconut oil. Ive been suspecting for years, that a lot of claims made by the beauty industry is bullshit, and have seen other people claiming so, but this video really validated those thoughts. Great video as always!
Skin care has a huge class component to it. Clear skin has become a sign of wealth, because it indicates that you can afford expensive treatments and products to give that appearance, as well as the time it takes to apply them. But they are often expensive and in no way related to health. I think it's best to understand your own skin and then find products that will help it do what it already doing, and if it needs more help then see a dermatologist. Please beware of 'natural' products being sold on social media or in boutiques, they are not tested to the same standard as things that you can buy from a pharmacy. Often they don't contain preservatives and unless a product is sealed and kept in optimal conditions, bacteria will start growing and shelf life will be limited. Yes the research by big companies could be better, but some research is better than none. I have encountered far too many 'natural' products that contain essential oils and other harmful ingredients that will cause irritation because they were made by people who had no understanding of the skin.
What you said about feeling 22 and knowing that you look older, made me think about how it goes both ways. I am someone who is always thought to be younger than I am and I find it embarrassing and feel shamed by others because if it. Like if I get IDed and the person IDing me notices that I'm in fact about 15 years older than I look, I get a smirk or wide-eyed look. I wonder why that is too. And that's an extreme example but even if someone think I'm just 5 years younger than I am, there's still some weird judgement that happens rather than them being in awe of my youthful glow as the adverts would have us believe happens, with me walking off smuggly with a flick of my hair to say I was born with it. And although I'm often on the receiving end of it, I know that I'm also guilty of the same sort of reactions myself when I think other people look much younger or older than they are. Humans. We're all just really contrary AF all the time.
I'm 22. I think there's a difference between having the skin of a 22-year-old and being perceived as a 22-year-old. I'm a guy, and it's slightly different for masc and femme people, but youthfulness is associated with naivety for both of us.
You're a woman, I don't need to tell you the ways young women/girls are ridiculed. Men gain more respect as they get older almost until they retire, and young men are belittled and called "boys" by superiors in the workplace.
I look about 18 when I shave, so I use facial hair to look older and get more respect. But I have to remind myself that I look like a baby because I sleep well and don't smoke. For a man, that's slightly embarrassing, for stupid macho reasons.
Young people who look older have it even worse. Read any article about 17-year-old Luke Littler and the comments will say he looks hideously old and ugly.
I can't imagine the kind of person who everyone agrees looks young and also commands respect. Probably really strange.
i wash my face with water and put moisturiser on morning and evening. I really struggle to wear SPF as Im autistic and sun cream holds loads of sensory issues for me. When I do where it, I then use a gentle cleanser to take it off in the evening. I like the routine of doing it as well, and the cold water in the morning helps me feel awake.
Just some tips that may be beneficial for SPF and sensory issues:
Sunscreens are (generally) moisturizing so you can simply use the SPF during the day and moisturizer at night to avoid the heavy double layer feeling.
I find that Japanese and Korean sunscreens are more “cosmetically elegant,” meaning they disappear into the skin nicely. Some (particularly Korean products) can have strong fragrance, though.
I think finding your “correct” sunscreen is a process. I went through a LOT of duds (that other people love) before finding my every day without fail ones.
Good luck!
what cleanser do you use I'm looking for a gentle one atm
@@kattyude8256 I use the neutrogena hydro boost gel cleanser and that works well for me
This is so stressful I don’t know who to believe 😭
"The idea and the industrial complex of skincare belongs more in entertainment than it does in a pharmacy". YEEEESSSS!!
Lena, you're brilliant, loving this video! But one thing that my brain screams at me whenever I see someone sitting in or wandering through long grass is TICKS!!! It's tick season and they're absoloute buggers (lymes disease), I've already found 3 ticks on me this season already. Feckers. Anyway, back to your very informative and entertaining video!
I really love your videos in general. This feels like one that should’ve been done in collaboration with an expert of some sort, who can explain the science properly and give context. Of course it’s great that you did your own research but without someone who can properly understand all the research in detail I don’t know if you should be sharing it online, especially seeing all the comments of people with more expertise than you contradicting specific points of what you said.
This often happens with Leena’s videos 😭
I highly recommend the channel Lab Muffin for anyone who wants to further explore myths and facts about skincare and sunscreen!
Personally I am proud that I have gotten my skincare down to the following:
At night:
- remove makeup with micellar water and a reusable flannel cloth
- wash face with gentle soap and hot water and a washcloth
- moisturize
In the morning:
- rinse face with hot water and a washcloth
- apply sunscreen
If you dont have a skin condition then theres no need for more than that!