@@spelunkerd thank you, makes it so much easier to get the top bolt out. Another thing I did different on this one to try and help the awkward position, I raised the truck to a hight that didn’t require me to be on my knees.
@@ryguy57106 this is one of the easier ones to do. Especially if you remove the pedal. If you don’t, getting that top bolt will have you second guessing taking on the job and cursing the engineer lol
@@anthonysova7117 thank you for the compliment! Seems to be a common failure on pretty much all newer climate control systems. Hope it went well for you!
I hope you can see this, and maybe give me a tip? I have this problem. I followed your steps…do I need to replace the white wheel inside? Or did you just pop it out, and then pop it back in?
Interesting comment on brake job lube. Some lube and some don't. I have never seen lube from the factory. If the pads are tight in the bracket it is probably because of rust. Lube may help a little but it's the rust that should be addressed.
Brake lube is a must in the salt belt. Prevents the rust from forming - or , at least, lengthens the time till the rust forms. When applied to the back of the pads, reduces chance of squeal. Especially with cheaper pads that don't have an anti squeal layer on the back.
@@eldoradony Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this. In this particular case, we decided to redo the previous brake job and added brake and caliper grease under the shims. Given the thinness of the shims, I believe this helps mitigate harmonics, which can amplify with even slight vibrations. Additionally, it seems to reduce rust buildup on the underside compared to original setups. From my experience, using lube during prep work makes a significant difference compared to the typically dry, OEM jobs, which often face binding issues due to rust under the shims. Your insights are spot-on and align with what I've observed.
Seriously, thank you for showing how to do this! This completely resolved my issue.
That's a great tip to remove and push aside the gas pedal. I find these to be seriously annoying repairs, with a sore back for days each time.
@@spelunkerd thank you, makes it so much easier to get the top bolt out. Another thing I did different on this one to try and help the awkward position, I raised the truck to a hight that didn’t require me to be on my knees.
You make it look so easy
@@ryguy57106 this is one of the easier ones to do. Especially if you remove the pedal. If you don’t, getting that top bolt will have you second guessing taking on the job and cursing the engineer lol
Nice work enjoy your videos just replaced a blend door actuator on a 2010 Ram 1500 CHEERS WILL
@@anthonysova7117 thank you for the compliment! Seems to be a common failure on pretty much all newer climate control systems. Hope it went well for you!
I hope you can see this, and maybe give me a tip? I have this problem. I followed your steps…do I need to replace the white wheel inside? Or did you just pop it out, and then pop it back in?
Interesting comment on brake job lube. Some lube and some don't. I have never seen lube from the factory. If the pads are tight in the bracket it is probably because of rust. Lube may help a little but it's the rust that should be addressed.
Brake lube is a must in the salt belt. Prevents the rust from forming - or , at least, lengthens the time till the rust forms. When applied to the back of the pads, reduces chance of squeal. Especially with cheaper pads that don't have an anti squeal layer on the back.
@@eldoradony Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this. In this particular case, we decided to redo the previous brake job and added brake and caliper grease under the shims. Given the thinness of the shims, I believe this helps mitigate harmonics, which can amplify with even slight vibrations. Additionally, it seems to reduce rust buildup on the underside compared to original setups. From my experience, using lube during prep work makes a significant difference compared to the typically dry, OEM jobs, which often face binding issues due to rust under the shims. Your insights are spot-on and align with what I've observed.
Was it aftermarket or dealer part
@@williammason7092 the actuator I pulled off? It was OEM.
Brakes, just the pads and one caliper was replaced. OE as well