wow, the only video I have found on UA-cam. My problem is that I'm not hearing any clicking noise. I didn't know that it was possible to recalibrate the blend doors so I am going to try that this afternoon before I go any further. Thank you.
Tips for others: For 2003-2006 trucks that special tool may be too thick, I used a good small ratcheting 8mm wrench, I think anything else would have taken too much space. Be careful with the pry-bar, such that you don't break the blend doors or anything inside the HVAC compartment. Also, even with the pry-bar, I wasn't able to lift the HVAC compartment high enough to get enough space for the actuator to slip out. What I ended up having to do is take a hack saw blade and cut off part of the old shaft, in place, so that I could then slide the actuator out leaving par of the shaft in place (with a good blade, it doesn't take that long and the cut off piece will fall right out). Be careful not to cut too low on the shaft though because you may need that old shaft/gear-piece later to reposition the blend door to align it with the new actuator shaft (because you don't have much room to maneuver that entire new actuator around). The next thing I did was cut off the end of the new actuator shaft, about a third of an inch above the flat part of the actuator, so that it would be skinny enough to slide into position, but the shaft would still be long enough to fit into the slotted hole and turn the blend door. And finally, don't worry about putting that third screw back in, too difficult. In the end this works without having to pull the entire dash and HVAC system, but holy cow, this was very poorly designed by Ford. What a pain; took me most of the day. By the way mine's a 2004 Expedition, so this should apply to all 2003-2006 trucks, and I saw on other comments that it applies to 2007-2014 trucks as well.
Recommendations - loosen (do not remove) HVAC housing bolts to allow the whole assembly to move up which gives you additional space to simply remove the actuator. OP didn't show how much of a pain removing the actuator is without following this additional step (5mins). Also, with the whole assembly moved up, you can easily disconnect the connector from the actuator AFTER the actuator is removed and connector is fully accessible. Have fun!
Thank you! This video saved me $2000. The final steps are ever so slightly different for a 2011 Expedition, but close enough so I could get it done. Took me about 6 hours, but I can’t wait to call the dealer and cancel my appointment!
Just finished doing this repair on my 2011 expedition today. I wanted to revisit some videos I had tuned into for help. This video wasn't any help to me since it was heavily edited, however I now know and understand certain things mentioned in this video. This actuator was a bitch to take out. My blend door electrical connector was facing the front of the car. Basically the opposite direction of my repair entry point. In other words, that damn connector was at the opposite side of the actuator deeper inside the dash. In this video it's on the left side, lucky you. I ended up cutting a lot of the ductwork on that passenger side to get that shit out. That wasn't my initial plan but frustration kicked in. I ended up duct taping it at the end. My replacement actuator was slightly fatter than the old one. So it was a bitch trying to install the new one. My ribs are sore for constantly laying on my stomach and my elbows are scratched up. Everything works for now but I'm still in the testing phase.
Just saw your video. I've been having the clicking problem and the only videos I saw were for the blend door behind the radio. Replaced that blend door and still have clicking. Came across yours and now I know my mistake. Wrong blend door. A lot more to dismantle, but at least I know where it is if I decide to tackle it. Thanks for the info!
lol elbow deep in a 2009 Platinum at the moment. What a PITA. I seem to have extra duct work under there that makes the whole thing thicker/harder to drop down. I'm determined, but I tell you what, this happens again and I think I'll live with the knocking noises.
@@azul6tee6 I ended up having to pull the seat bolts out and move those back to the back seat area, then peeled the carpet back towards them on both sides. Once you do that you can remove the two bolts holding that lower duct down and it pulls completely out of there and out of your way. Major pain, but it helped immensely on the final goal.
Hey Scott. I just replace the actuator and doing it my gear shift is not releasing the manual brake or activating the reverse sensors. Any idea on what i missed? Another thing i did is replace the gear shift with a new one. I’m wondering what i missed. Thanks in advance for any advice.
The gear shift mechanism has a small internal servo that releases when the brake pedal is depressed, this allows you to shift out of park. Check your wire harness connections to make sure they are fully inserted or that you didn't forget to connect one. If they are inserted fully check your fuses.
Awesome video! Is there another blend door behind the radio? If so how do you know which door is bad. I have 2007 Expedition with Duel zone and no AC coming from the Drivers side. Thoughts?
The head of the ratchet wrench is thicker than a standard combo wrench and wont fit between the body of the actuator and nut. That was my experience at least.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video! Took me 3 hours to fix it. Getting it out was the hardest part!
definitely the best video on YT for doing the bottom blend door. Well done. This is saving $1800 . good vid .
Thank you for the compliment
Thank you for the video on changing the actuator because I am fixing to the same one
wow, the only video I have found on UA-cam. My problem is that I'm not hearing any clicking noise. I didn't know that it was possible to recalibrate the blend doors so I am going to try that this afternoon before I go any further. Thank you.
Tips for others: For 2003-2006 trucks that special tool may be too thick, I used a good small ratcheting 8mm wrench, I think anything else would have taken too much space. Be careful with the pry-bar, such that you don't break the blend doors or anything inside the HVAC compartment. Also, even with the pry-bar, I wasn't able to lift the HVAC compartment high enough to get enough space for the actuator to slip out. What I ended up having to do is take a hack saw blade and cut off part of the old shaft, in place, so that I could then slide the actuator out leaving par of the shaft in place (with a good blade, it doesn't take that long and the cut off piece will fall right out). Be careful not to cut too low on the shaft though because you may need that old shaft/gear-piece later to reposition the blend door to align it with the new actuator shaft (because you don't have much room to maneuver that entire new actuator around). The next thing I did was cut off the end of the new actuator shaft, about a third of an inch above the flat part of the actuator, so that it would be skinny enough to slide into position, but the shaft would still be long enough to fit into the slotted hole and turn the blend door. And finally, don't worry about putting that third screw back in, too difficult. In the end this works without having to pull the entire dash and HVAC system, but holy cow, this was very poorly designed by Ford. What a pain; took me most of the day. By the way mine's a 2004 Expedition, so this should apply to all 2003-2006 trucks, and I saw on other comments that it applies to 2007-2014 trucks as well.
Thanks for the guide it was very helpful along the way. I never ever ever want to do this repair again Haha !!!
Recommendations - loosen (do not remove) HVAC housing bolts to allow the whole assembly to move up which gives you additional space to simply remove the actuator. OP didn't show how much of a pain removing the actuator is without following this additional step (5mins). Also, with the whole assembly moved up, you can easily disconnect the connector from the actuator AFTER the actuator is removed and connector is fully accessible. Have fun!
recalibration saved me bra! no other videos have it that ive seen. thx
Thank you! This video saved me $2000. The final steps are ever so slightly different for a 2011 Expedition, but close enough so I could get it done. Took me about 6 hours, but I can’t wait to call the dealer and cancel my appointment!
Your welcome glad the video helped.
Great video especially the recalibration of blend doors ..
Just finished doing this repair on my 2011 expedition today. I wanted to revisit some videos I had tuned into for help. This video wasn't any help to me since it was heavily edited, however I now know and understand certain things mentioned in this video. This actuator was a bitch to take out. My blend door electrical connector was facing the front of the car. Basically the opposite direction of my repair entry point. In other words, that damn connector was at the opposite side of the actuator deeper inside the dash. In this video it's on the left side, lucky you. I ended up cutting a lot of the ductwork on that passenger side to get that shit out. That wasn't my initial plan but frustration kicked in. I ended up duct taping it at the end. My replacement actuator was slightly fatter than the old one. So it was a bitch trying to install the new one. My ribs are sore for constantly laying on my stomach and my elbows are scratched up. Everything works for now but I'm still in the testing phase.
Great help,and camera work!
Just saw your video. I've been having the clicking problem and the only videos I saw were for the blend door behind the radio. Replaced that blend door and still have clicking. Came across yours and now I know my mistake. Wrong blend door. A lot more to dismantle, but at least I know where it is if I decide to tackle it. Thanks for the info!
That one behind the radio is so easy. Took me 20 minutes start to finish. Charged the customer $50 labor.
Sorry if i missed it, whats the part number on that motor?
lol elbow deep in a 2009 Platinum at the moment. What a PITA. I seem to have extra duct work under there that makes the whole thing thicker/harder to drop down. I'm determined, but I tell you what, this happens again and I think I'll live with the knocking noises.
Hello, I have extra duct work too. How did you get it out? Thanks.
@@azul6tee6 I ended up having to pull the seat bolts out and move those back to the back seat area, then peeled the carpet back towards them on both sides. Once you do that you can remove the two bolts holding that lower duct down and it pulls completely out of there and out of your way. Major pain, but it helped immensely on the final goal.
@@BustinCasts Thanks for the info.
Thanks!
Thanks Efrain! Much appreciated.
Maybe been asked before but what OBD reader are you suing?
Great video
Finally a good video on the drivers side one
Thank you. Glad the video was helpful.
Is it under the passenger seat or directly under the center console in the back
This video is gold, good job!
Thank you!
Tnks. Whats the part number? Please
Hey Scott. I just replace the actuator and doing it my gear shift is not releasing the manual brake or activating the reverse sensors. Any idea on what i missed? Another thing i did is replace the gear shift with a new one. I’m wondering what i missed. Thanks in advance for any advice.
The gear shift mechanism has a small internal servo that releases when the brake pedal is depressed, this allows you to shift out of park. Check your wire harness connections to make sure they are fully inserted or that you didn't forget to connect one. If they are inserted fully check your fuses.
My track sensor stayed on after this any tips?
Awesome video! Is there another blend door behind the radio? If so how do you know which door is bad. I have 2007 Expedition with Duel zone and no AC coming from the Drivers side. Thoughts?
Blend door behind the radio controls the passenger side and this bottom one is the drivers side. Part is the same YH-1873.
What years does this cover?
This one is a 08. Should cover 07 to 14. Other years most likely have only slight variances.
This worked for my 2004 Expedition, so it should cover all 2003-2006 Expys as well.
I have a 2007 Lincoln navigator dose this have same.a c.system as Ford expedition?
I think my blendor.a c door went out yesterday. When I bought it in 2016 it used make noise and a.c.worked now noise and a.c system not.working.
I have 2005 f150 leriet with center console would it be that easy
What about the screws under the radio and ac controls that hold the center console together? How did you get those out?
Right! I appreciate the video but I feel huge steps/tips were omitted from the video.
Thk. For showing more detail on that big deal actuator to replace.why Ford made this so complicated to get replace..
i used a nut driver bit in a 1/4 ratcheting wrench to get the screws out
Is this the yh1743? They couldnt have made it easy and used the same one for all the common say operations
This part was YH-1873
@@fixinstuff thank you. My local parts house was playing the guessing game.
would be nice to post links on Amazon where you got the magnets.
Bought them at Home Depot.
Is this only for Expeditions with dual zone climate control or is this all models of Expeditions within this year range?
Should be the same from 07-14. Dual zone will have another blend door behind the radio.
Got it all disconnected and unscrewed and can’t get it past the duct work underneath it.
I connected Forscan to our 07 Expy, I cannot figure out how to see that error code. I know the driver side is bad.
You will need a scan tool that reads MS/HS CAN
My f150 is the only vehicle I’ve had that I’ve literally taken the entire interior apart over the years fixing various issues 😩
Part number?
Thanks Mr.Scott✌️
Your Welcome!
He sound like Jack Nicholas
Excellent video. Ford really screwed the mechanic as well as their customers with this horrible design.
how the F you took it out
at 7:22 look at how I have the jack and prybar positioned to gently lift the ducting. This gives just enough clearance to remove the blend door.
Just use a ratchet wrench 🔧
The head of the ratchet wrench is thicker than a standard combo wrench and wont fit between the body of the actuator and nut. That was my experience at least.
Terrible video not showing how to dismantle center console or putting in new act
👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
@@Trackhoe075 if you can’t figure out how to disassemble the center console you probably shouldn’t be working on your car.