Clutch Replacement Part 2 - Transmission Removal | Honda S2000
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- Hey everyone. In part 2 of this video series I’m going to show you how to remove the transmission on a Honda S2000.
Part 1: • Clutch Replacement Par...
Part 3: • Clutch Replacement Par...
Part 4: • Clutch Replacement Par...
Intake removal: • DBW OEM Intake Removal...
Shifter removal: • Shifter Regrease | Hon...
Alternator removal: • Alternator Replacement...
Catalytic Converter removal: • Catalytic Convert & Ox...
Follow me on Instagram for more Honda S2000 content: / diyguystv
Please consider using the links below to purchase tools in order to support my work.
Tools necessary:
- Extension Drive Bar Set (amzn.to/2YsXIxp)
- Universal Joint Set (amzn.to/2YrPTHY)
- Metric sockets/wrenches with extensions
- 22mm Wrench or Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket (amzn.to/36cU4KD)
- Needle Nose Pliers (amzn.to/2LOUoJO)
Tools Recommended:
- Cordless Impact Gun (amzn.to/33YuI1z)
- Ratcheting Wrench Set (amzn.to/2P0USwv) - Авто та транспорт
BY FAR THE BEST S2000 TRANSMISSION REMOVAL TUTORIAL!!!!
Hey thanks!
DIY'ing my '06 at home has felt so simple because of your videos. thank you so much for taking the time to put this together
This video and the rest of the tutorial are a life-saver.
I am now at the step of actually removing the transmission, and it's been a slightly nerve-wracking but very fun job so far. I love my S2K, and for me, a big part of enjoying this car is the DIY component. I doubt I would have tackled this job myself without these videos, so thanks so much for the clutch replacement set as well as all the others -- I have referenced quite a few at this point.
Heyyy man! I’m getting ready to replace the clutch in my 04 AP2 also. Couple questions, did you remove everything that he did in this video? What clutch kit did you use? I’m thinking about using a stage 2 from Action Clutch. That last 2 clutch’s were clutch masters and there junk. OEM all are in back order and want $3000 for the kit
I'd argue that the most important tools are the plastic bags and Sharpie. This videos are an absolute goldmine for S2000 owners, especially since the cars are getting up there in age.
Fantastic, I was going to film mine this winter and make a DIY as well, but now I’m saying F it. There’s no way I can make a better and easier to follow video than this. I’ll film some updates of my car along the way, but will link your DIYs in my videos for credit
Thanks NAUS!
Done this job on a few BMW's and the basics are pretty similar. However, I would highly recommend the Harbor Freight transmission scissor jack for this job. That little jack has been a life saver for all the transmissions I have dropped. Comes with a strap that secures the tranny and confidently holds the tranny level. Best $100 I ever spent. Sure beats dropping that tranny, damaging the output shaft or hurting yourself. But it now, thank me later.
I just completed the process on my 1 owner '01 with your VERY helpful videos and the shop manual. 143K miles on the original clutch seemed like enough. I replaced every part I could buy (plastic parts/foam insert for the shifter; clutch, pressure plate all the shifter springs, bearings, LHT is a great source, besides Honda. I did have the flywheel resurfaced for $100. The car is soooo quiet and shifts with a precision that I can't even remember from new. One tip is to be careful you don't knock off the little spade clip wire connection from the starter!! I did and spent a few hours trying/crying why the all done car wouldn't start!. It can be re-attached with everything still in place but you need an extension mirror and good fingers. one of the good things I learned along the way was that an 8mm socket is THE tool for popping out those snap in cable ties without breaking the part that snaps in the hole. Thank you for posting it! Really.
best tutorial - I pulled my engine and transmission at the same time. Thank you !!!!🙏
Best DIY video on UA-cam period. And I don't even have covid 19
Thank you for this great step by step video.
Especially like you are doing with jack stands and not on a lift.
- as most of us don’t have access to a lift
home garage bois
This is simply the best how-to on UA-cam. Period. Thank you so much for putting this together and sharing! I found that the long 1/2" extensions are not needed as long as you have a bunch of shorter 3/8" extensions to stack together like I do. You don’t even need the universal socket if you have the type of extensions that allow the socket to wobble. I also found that having a helper under the car to help locate and guide the starter bolt and socket (separately) was very helpful.
I just did this job 2 weekends ago. I was pleased to see you followed all the same steps as me with the addition of removing the alternator. It's a tough job if you haven't done it before but this video should help greatly. Thanks for assisting the S2000 community!
Sorry I couldn’t get it out a few weeks earlier ha! I had gone on vacation and just wasn’t quite done with the videos yet.
This is THE best channel for S2000 tips! You have alleviated a lot of my anxiety about clutch replacement!
Wow best DIY video on S2K clutch ever! TY!
The best Christmas gift ever. :)
You are a God-send sir! Very informative and extremely helpful DIY video. I have been putting off replacing my clutch and finally got the nerve to tackle it. These videos are about as good as you can get. Thank you for taking the time to put these together as I am sure it wasn't easy. Much respect!
You are very welcome.
Thank you for these incredibly detailed and well made videos. In my book you are one step above god.
LOL
Thanks I really just did this all by myself and your videos . Thank you
Awesome video bud, it really helped me out. 💪🏽💪🏽
You...are the MAN!!!
Thanks for the video! This was so helpful.
Here’s a couple things I had to do differently in case it helps other people out
To get the subframe to drop all the way I had to
-had to remove the lower coil over bolt
-remove some clips from the fender liners (well performed a tensile test on them lol)
-use a large pry bay to pry the subframe down. Mine was wedged on the bolts and didn’t come down freely.
For the top transmission bolts my impact didn’t have the balls to break those bolts loose so I lifted the trans back up (subframe still dropped) and I was able to access them from the engine bay with a long handle 17mm wrench with a pipe on the end for leverage. Same with the one wedged between the transmission tunnel.
Other than that, I followed this step for step and I got the transmission out.... now we’ll see if I can get it back in haha.
Thanks for sharing your experience for others!
Tip: for anyone struggling with the top starter bolt, if you have a friend (hopefully you do) then have them go above and push the extension with the socket on it in and out while you guide it from underneath. It takes a little bit of arm flexibility but you can actually feel the top starter bolt by sticking your hand up from underneath the car (assuming its low enough and your arms are long enough). Direct your friend from below and tell them either in or out while you guide the socket onto the bolt from below. You can even hold the socket on there while they use a breaker bar if you want to to prevent stripping the bolt. My friends and I did this last week while replacing my starter and after we figured out that you could feel it from below we were able to get it out easily.
It’s easier to feel on 2006+ but yeah you can feel it 2005- years if you bend and wiggle the wiring around
Thank you so much for these awesome videos. I just changed my clutch and these videos really helped. I just have a couple of tips. I recommend removing the drive shaft completely. I was able to take off the transmission with it on (with struggle) but putting the transmission back on was a pain with the drive shaft, especially if you're doing this alone. Also before dropping the subframe. There is a plastic bracket holding one of the radiator hose on the drive side. You should remove this bracket or you're going to break it.
Good point about the driveshaft, it can certainly be a pain sometimes in my experience.
Thank you!
For those that are having troubles with the top transmission bolts, I went through the shifter hole inside the car. Made it way easier than trying to get a swivel socket with a 5 foot extension to snake your way on top.
Thank you for making this
JEEZ! I didnt even know they made extensions that long!
Amazing
FYI you don't need to remove the headers if you have aftermarket ones. You can reach the top transmission bolt and the headers should clear when lowering the subframe.
Thanks for the video @DIYGuys!
Good to know thanks!
Thanks for the great videos
You’re welcome!
Good job
Thank you so much
Very well done!
This is the most straightforward detailed transmission removal video the S2K community needed!
How long did it take you to remove the transmission?
Thanks! When I'm not filming it will take me up to 3 hours. Now that I've documented the process I could probably get it down to 2 hours.
Nice Video! I did the job once and I remember from the manual, that it was required to loosen a wire harness at the intake side. Is that not needed? Just want to be sure for the coming replacement.
hi I'm at the part where I'm lowering the subframe. hearing lots of noises like the wiring harness is holding up the engine? normal?
The drive shaft hex bolt get stripped because the mechanic who fixed owner S2000 before used air impact gun or possible did to go by factory torque specs and want torque to the max with x-amount for safety reasons, so when it is your turn to loosen the hex bolts will be stripped because they are over torqued
Thank you for the great video.
What’s the tq rating of your impact? Trying to see if mine will be adequate for the job.
700 ft lbs :)
You shouldn’t need much for this job though.
Heads up, if your lowered (coil overs) you need to remove the bottom 17mm Bolton the coil over in order for the subframe to drop all the way.
That's pretty interesting. I haven't heard of that before. I suppose if your car is slammed it may prevent the subframe from lowering because the strut cannot decompress any more.
DIYGuys That’s exactly it, I’m not slammed but took me a minute to figure out the problem. Great video by the way! 👍
@@Nes_2k how much are you lowered my buddy and I are having the same problem... but it's only the drivers side....
If you know the basics I suggest watching in 1.5speed playback. Great video!
Thanks!
DIYGuys yea man your vids are awesome, really clear.
blue brake fluid ?
The part were u mark and loosen the steering rack coupler, about that , is thier one on each side of the car that needs to be loosnd? I have a ap1
What do you mean each side of the car?
Would you recommend using a trans jack for additional safety ( for the trans and person)? I wonder if the trans will tip over and drop on the floor. Also after removing all the bolts, the trans is held by the friction of the bell housing to the engine? Should I worry if it drops before I place jack underneath? Thanks
A transmission jack would be the best. After removing all the bolts the transmission input shaft will be holding it in place. It is actually quite hard to remove it.
@@DIYGuysvideo Thanks for you fast reply, my ap2 is at 68k, the engagement is very high since I bought from the last owner and recently the clutch started to feel sticky. I was debating whether I should take it to a trustworthy mechanic or do it by myself. After watching your videos I think I'll take the latter option. Thanks again.
Look into my clutch pedal free play video if you haven’t already. You can lower the engagement by adding some play.
my exhaust manifold could be removed once unbolted. I didn’t have to touch engine mounts and move engine for clearance.
Hmm. I wonder if it’s just easier to do with the engine raised? That’s interesting
Looking for an advice from the master himself:
When coming to a stop from 5th gear, do you row through/downshift to each gear before coming to neutral? 5,4,3,2,1?
It depends. If I’m being sporty yeah, however I’ll never downshift into first.
@@DIYGuysvideo just regular driving? You ever go from 4th to neutral, then light turned green, 2nd? Or would it ruin the synchro
Yeah sometimes I do. I’m not sure if it’s bad for the synchros and I dont think about it too much.
holy sh*t thats alot of work just to get into the transmission. a miata, its just a couple of steps and boom.
So.... I didn't disconnect the steering rack input shaft when I did my clutch swap. It didn't seem to slow me down though. What's the purpose of disconnecting the steering rack? Does it just make it easier to drop the transmission?
It will put stress on your steering rack torque sensor. You’ll get to a point where the front of the subframe won’t want to go down anymore but the rear of the subframe will.
@@DIYGuysvideo Oh whoops. I will definitely disconnect it next time. Thank you for the info!
@@DIYGuysvideo I did disconnect it... but wondered why. Thank you.
I have a question/concern, the top three bolts on the transmission are impossible for me to remove, I’ve used three different impact guns(currently Milwaukee M18) and all sorts of penetrating fluids and nothing. I believe the clutch has been replaced before but I have no idea why these three bolts will not come off, please help it’s already been a week of me failing nonstop :( LOL
Air tools are probably going to be the only thing stronger than cordless impact tools. You can also try heat but I don’t m is how you’d reach the bolts
Is it okay to remove and install the transmission with fluid in it? I see other tutorials saying to drain it first, but it's such a pain to pump fluid in once it's reinstalled
Yeah it should be ok.
Great thanks! And really appreciate the videos overall. They've been an immense help
7:16. WTF ARE THOSE WASHERS/BRACKET/SPACERS CALLED FOR THE BOLTS. ofc my dumbass stripped them so I had to cut them off and broke that bracket in the process and I can’t find them anywhere to buy and replace. Help plz
hi! after i replace the disc at the first the pedal feel loke new! after 500km the pedal feel like old disc clutch. when i am turn off the engine with clutch pedal full down and the first gear on the engine rattle like when the pedal slip from the foot end the engine is turned off cause zero speed with first gear. Its like the clutch doen't disengage fully! At the first day was fine!! Any ideas?
Can you clarify the issue you’re seeing? You’re worried about a noise when you turn off the engine?
@@DIYGuysvideo NO! it seems the clutch doesn't disengage fully! But its wired cuase 500km before was just fine! It's not OEM but I didn't push it at all! Maybe the slave cylinder hane issue or the maste cylinder! also changed the fluid!
Sounds like a hydraulic issue if it’s related to disengagement of the clutch.
This video is confusing to me cause most of the video looks zoomed in. I’m replacing my clutch tomorrow and I’m so worried that ima f it up
Im currently struggling to remove my top bolts. Theres so many wires and vaccum hoses in the way.
yohni villa top bolts of what in particular?
Probably referring to top starter bolt. You should be able to make it though them if you remove the alternator.
@@DIYGuysvideo that's exactly what I did, the best part is. I now get go install a new knock sensor :)
yohni villa It happens. If it helps at all BalladeSports sells a good replacement I have personally used.
So you didn’t have to disconnect the ac compressor?
Nope!
It can put stress on the air con lines though
Peejay Em that’s possible. Never heard of it being an issue though.
Earthquake XT can't get the top bolts out whT the fuck do I do now?
Really wish I didnt have a car from NY everything is rusted and takes massive amount of pressure to loosen or remove. The steering shaft and the subframe bolts suck
Sorry 😭
who the fuck would dislike this?
Terrifying
Who am I paying to do this shit for us. Insanity
Hahaha
Take away: pay a professional.