Just have to say, to people who aren’t in this industry this is as good as a professional can get, when you work in this line of work you can always pick apart another contractor, definitely not the case in your videos, everything you do is top notch, we are a flatwork contractor in New York who do epoxy flooring as well and love watching other contractors videos and I’ve gotta tell you I’ve never watched any videos on UA-cam that are more thorough, if you are gonna do what you do you have to be setup for it and you definitely are, I’m in the market for an entry level self propelled Grinder and vac system (tired of using the double headed echo) any advice? Love everything you guys do!
Thank you for the great compliment. I really like the husqvarna grinders, they bought HTC a couple years ago. They have an 820 planetary thats really nice. They need to come up with a floating shrowd like we have on our HTC800 or else you have to adjust the dust skirt all the time. I would also recommend the high voltage units. 480v is the top dog as far as grinding goes. I just posted a video yesterday another floor at this same school but different location.
I enjoy watching your videos, I'm a small custom Polisher like yourself, and it's nice to see how you proceed with your floor, including grinding steps, patching, densifying ect. Keep up the good work.
Wow, great job Jason! I live in Northern Ontario Canada, commonly referred to as God's country by most folks up here! .... So, I just finished grinding my garage floor and so now I'm ready to lay the product. Unfortunately, I've been held back as we had heavy rain every single day for the last 5 days .... (which hardly EVER happens up here but with my crappy luck lately, I'm not surprised...lol). Weather forecast is looking great all of next week so hopefully I'll be able to apply the first coat on Monday. I already bought the epoxy base & flakes and I was about to buy an epoxy clear today, however after watching several of your videos this morning, I think I'll go with a poly clear instead. I wasn't sure if I could use a polyaspartic clear on top of an epoxy base and flakes, but that combination appears to be your 1st choice. Based on your advice, I'm doing the same. By the way Jason, you're a very good instructor. Love your videos - please keep'em coming. You have a new subscriber bud. Thanks man!
I don't remember off the top of my head, that was quite a while ago. If I remember correctly it was approximately $5000.00 We also had a two hour travel involved in that every day
I love your videos. I've been watching and learning about epoxy and polyaspartic floors. We're looking at a new construction house (new garage). I would love to put a polyaspartic coat on the garage floor. I have 2 quick questions: 1. Is it OK to apply polyaspartic when it's cold--I'm in New England and winter is around the corner? 2. Is it OK to apply it to relatively new concrete (few months old--no car has ever driven on it)?
Thanks, I’ll try that. I bought a single part polyaspartic so maybe I can take a small amount and touch up the spots and wait till the next day to do the full clear coat.
the Epoxies penetrate better into concrete then the Polyaspartic. So yes, the epoxy is a better material to bond to the concrete, the polyaspartic is a far superior topcoat. They both have their places. If you are installing this exterior, I would recommend the epoxy primer, polyaspartic intermediate coat with flake, then polyaspartic topcoat. If you are installing it in a garage, you can install the epoxy primer, epoxy, intermediate coat with flake then the polyaspartic topcoat. If you have any other questions, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
First, great video!! One thing that I was wondering was how much time lapsed between each layer? After you put down the primer, how much time do you have before needing to put down the second coat (12 hours?) and then, after the second coat, how much time do you have before needing to put down the poly? Lastly, it looks like you use the same, non-notched squeegee for each layer so I'm guess you just wipe it off between layers? Thanks!!
On this particular project we did one coat per day, so approximately 24 hours apart. You do not want to wait over 30+/- hours between coats, oils will release from the epoxy and actually repel the next coat if you wait too long. Yes we clean our squeegee with acetone after each install.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thank you very much for the response! I am trying to do a two section, two different color set-up which is why I was curious about the cure time. The first area would be red/white/black/gray, full flake. Second section which would surround (boarder) the first section would be a 3' boarder of a single color flake such as a dark/medium gray. Was trying to figure out how to tape off one area from another without having the tape pull up any of the material. Not sure if you've ever done this sort of thing but if you had any advice, that would be great. The process I'm thinking of is: laydown the primer in the entire area. 12 hours later, tape off the center area and lay down the base coat and flake. 12 hours later, scrape excess flake. Once complete, tape off this area so that the 3' boarder is now expose. Laydown the base coat and flake. Come back 12 hours later, scrape off excess, remove the tape, and laydown the polyaspartic top coat over both areas. Max cure time for any one area would be 24 hours but I could adjust that down if you think that would be necessary. I'm just concerned of the tape pulling up any of the material. Any insight into your experience or thoughts on my process would be appreciated!!! And of course, if you think this will work, please feel free to refer me to the products and amounts on your page that I would need to purchase. The center area total sq ft is 370 and the boarder is 250 sq ft.
@@michaelg503 Yes, that is very doable and I agree with how you would be doing it. I would prefer to go over some details with you verbally, it's much easier than typing. If you want to email me your phone number, I will call you back jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
I always recommend a primer, it has not let me down in 28 years. If your concrete is extremely porous, or not in good condition, I would highly recommend a primer. If not, you may not need it, but there is always a risk when not using a primer. The primer penetrates into the concrete, which thicker coatings do not.
Yes, you can run the material up the walls. If it is only 6 inches or so you can use the same material on the floor. If you are going three or 4 feet of the wall, I would recommend a vertical epoxy that we sell. Primer:https: //concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-015v-vertical-epoxy-primer-2-gallon-kit/ top coat: concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-100v-vertical-epoxy-top-coat/
I typically do not like to apply flakes to rejection at least in a garage application. The flakes are made of vinyl and not as strong as the epoxy around it. Therefore under a point load could possibly crush and be the weakest part of the floor. That is why in most of my garage floors we install, the flakes are random and laying flat to avoid that issue. I hope that makes sense.
Did you spread moreflakes just before the polyaspartic? I need to touch up the flakes on my epoxy before doing the poly clear coat and don’t want to screw up the clear coat with loose chips. Any advice?
George Utter You can probably roll out the clearcoat, sprinkle a couple flakes where needed and roll more clear coat on top of it. I don’t know how large of an area you are trying to fix. Some of the flakes are definitely going to stick to the roller when you do that. But the majority should stick to the floor.
What’s the average cost to hire you to do a 400 sqft. Garage. Your not in my area but it will help when comparing the local guys. I want it done right.
Because it will take an extra day to install because you need the water to dry from the floor. Epoxy does not like water. The primer is designed to penetrate into the concrete, washing is just an extra step that adds another day that you don't need to do. Primer is the key. Not all contractors install a primer.
Just have to say, to people who aren’t in this industry this is as good as a professional can get, when you work in this line of work you can always pick apart another contractor, definitely not the case in your videos, everything you do is top notch, we are a flatwork contractor in New York who do epoxy flooring as well and love watching other contractors videos and I’ve gotta tell you I’ve never watched any videos on UA-cam that are more thorough, if you are gonna do what you do you have to be setup for it and you definitely are, I’m in the market for an entry level self propelled Grinder and vac system (tired of using the double headed echo) any advice? Love everything you guys do!
Thank you for the great compliment. I really like the husqvarna grinders, they bought HTC a couple years ago. They have an 820 planetary thats really nice. They need to come up with a floating shrowd like we have on our HTC800 or else you have to adjust the dust skirt all the time. I would also recommend the high voltage units. 480v is the top dog as far as grinding goes. I just posted a video yesterday another floor at this same school but different location.
I enjoy watching your videos, I'm a small custom Polisher like yourself, and it's nice to see how you proceed with your floor, including grinding steps, patching, densifying ect. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, we will be posting another one later this week.
Wow, great job Jason!
I live in Northern Ontario Canada, commonly referred to as God's country by most folks up here! .... So, I just finished grinding my garage floor and so now I'm ready to lay the product. Unfortunately, I've been held back as we had heavy rain every single day for the last 5 days .... (which hardly EVER happens up here but with my crappy luck lately, I'm not surprised...lol). Weather forecast is looking great all of next week so hopefully I'll be able to apply the first coat on Monday. I already bought the epoxy base & flakes and I was about to buy an epoxy clear today, however after watching several of your videos this morning, I think I'll go with a poly clear instead. I wasn't sure if I could use a polyaspartic clear on top of an epoxy base and flakes, but that combination appears to be your 1st choice. Based on your advice, I'm doing the same.
By the way Jason, you're a very good instructor. Love your videos - please keep'em coming.
You have a new subscriber bud.
Thanks man!
Thank you for watching and good luck with your floor.
Big fan of your work. Thanks
With all the cool tools you guys have this must have been an at least $3000 job.
I don't remember off the top of my head, that was quite a while ago. If I remember correctly it was approximately $5000.00
We also had a two hour travel involved in that every day
Will be in touch. Acid wash. When or if this is done. I note video of floor that failed partly from acid was
What type of shoes are those that do not mark up the floor? The shoes with no spikes.
I love your videos.
I've been watching and learning about epoxy and polyaspartic floors.
We're looking at a new construction house (new garage). I would love to put a polyaspartic coat on the garage floor. I have 2 quick questions: 1. Is it OK to apply polyaspartic when it's cold--I'm in New England and winter is around the corner? 2. Is it OK to apply it to relatively new concrete (few months old--no car has ever driven on it)?
You want temps above 40 and concrete needs to cure for 30 days before applying coatings.
Thanks, I’ll try that. I bought a single part polyaspartic so maybe I can take a small amount and touch up the spots and wait till the next day to do the full clear coat.
George Utter That should work also.
How come you don’t grind first Then fill the potentially widened crack.? Then possibly bring flush the crack.????
I’ve seen some companies advertise one day floor coatings ?
Is it always better to use epoxy as a base coat vs polyurea/polyaspartic. then use the polyaspartic as a topcoat?
the Epoxies penetrate better into concrete then the Polyaspartic. So yes, the epoxy is a better material to bond to the concrete, the polyaspartic is a far superior topcoat. They both have their places.
If you are installing this exterior, I would recommend the epoxy primer, polyaspartic intermediate coat with flake, then polyaspartic topcoat.
If you are installing it in a garage, you can install the epoxy primer, epoxy, intermediate coat with flake then the polyaspartic topcoat.
If you have any other questions, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Like when painting concrete does poly need etching first as well?
You always need to diamond grind no matter what coating you are applying.
First, great video!! One thing that I was wondering was how much time lapsed between each layer? After you put down the primer, how much time do you have before needing to put down the second coat (12 hours?) and then, after the second coat, how much time do you have before needing to put down the poly? Lastly, it looks like you use the same, non-notched squeegee for each layer so I'm guess you just wipe it off between layers? Thanks!!
On this particular project we did one coat per day, so approximately 24 hours apart. You do not want to wait over 30+/- hours between coats, oils will release from the epoxy and actually repel the next coat if you wait too long.
Yes we clean our squeegee with acetone after each install.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thank you very much for the response! I am trying to do a two section, two different color set-up which is why I was curious about the cure time. The first area would be red/white/black/gray, full flake. Second section which would surround (boarder) the first section would be a 3' boarder of a single color flake such as a dark/medium gray. Was trying to figure out how to tape off one area from another without having the tape pull up any of the material. Not sure if you've ever done this sort of thing but if you had any advice, that would be great. The process I'm thinking of is: laydown the primer in the entire area. 12 hours later, tape off the center area and lay down the base coat and flake. 12 hours later, scrape excess flake. Once complete, tape off this area so that the 3' boarder is now expose. Laydown the base coat and flake. Come back 12 hours later, scrape off excess, remove the tape, and laydown the polyaspartic top coat over both areas. Max cure time for any one area would be 24 hours but I could adjust that down if you think that would be necessary. I'm just concerned of the tape pulling up any of the material. Any insight into your experience or thoughts on my process would be appreciated!!! And of course, if you think this will work, please feel free to refer me to the products and amounts on your page that I would need to purchase. The center area total sq ft is 370 and the boarder is 250 sq ft.
@@michaelg503 Yes, that is very doable and I agree with how you would be doing it. I would prefer to go over some details with you verbally, it's much easier than typing. If you want to email me your phone number, I will call you back jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
what determines whether you use an epoxy prime coat or just skipping it?
I always recommend a primer, it has not let me down in 28 years. If your concrete is extremely porous, or not in good condition, I would highly recommend a primer. If not, you may not need it, but there is always a risk when not using a primer. The primer penetrates into the concrete, which thicker coatings do not.
Have you ever accidently gotten product on the walls without taping? If so, how does one remove product on walls ect?
You need to wipe it with acetone while it's still liquid, once it cures, nothing will remove it except for grinding or sanding
Can you finish the concrete on the walls and stairs?
Yes, you can run the material up the walls. If it is only 6 inches or so you can use the same material on the floor. If you are going three or 4 feet of the wall, I would recommend a vertical epoxy that we sell.
Primer:https:
//concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-015v-vertical-epoxy-primer-2-gallon-kit/
top coat:
concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-100v-vertical-epoxy-top-coat/
I've seen a couple kinds of flake application, application to rejection and some more sparingly applied. Is this mainly a visual taste thing?
I typically do not like to apply flakes to rejection at least in a garage application. The flakes are made of vinyl and not as strong as the epoxy around it. Therefore under a point load could possibly crush and be the weakest part of the floor. That is why in most of my garage floors we install, the flakes are random and laying flat to avoid that issue. I hope that makes sense.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks and thanks for the great videos.
Did you spread moreflakes just before the polyaspartic? I need to touch up the flakes on my epoxy before doing the poly clear coat and don’t want to screw up the clear coat with loose chips. Any advice?
George Utter You can probably roll out the clearcoat, sprinkle a couple flakes where needed and roll more clear coat on top of it. I don’t know how large of an area you are trying to fix. Some of the flakes are definitely going to stick to the roller when you do that. But the majority should stick to the floor.
Where did you get the ergonomic chair you used when grinding the floor?
I’ve seen it before but could never find one.
Its called a racatac, if you look online, you can find it. Just make sure you get the right configuration.
Thank you
What’s the average cost to hire you to do a 400 sqft. Garage. Your not in my area but it will help when comparing the local guys. I want it done right.
4,000.00 is average, epoxy prices have risen, so it will probably increase a bit
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions can I have half done then move everything over without having an obvious line. It would be flake
@@Imwright720 you will most likely see a line.
Why not wash the floors before the coating
Because it will take an extra day to install because you need the water to dry from the floor. Epoxy does not like water. The primer is designed to penetrate into the concrete, washing is just an extra step that adds another day that you don't need to do. Primer is the key. Not all contractors install a primer.
So do you have the generator because the grinder is 3 phase? Might be a dumb question. 😂
Yes, the grinders and vacuum system are all 480 3 phase.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks! Do you have an email I could get? I had a question if you don’t mind!
@@jamesandrews598 jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
RIP BUG 14:31
Bugs do love Epoxy lol