Yeah, and as a contractor I do wish people understood how much time, how many special tools, and how many disposable items go along with it! You can't believe how much Brow Beating we get when quoting a retail price!!!!
@@greg4673 You're nuts. The material alone is close to $2k. Not only that, you couldn't pay me enough to spent 8 hours on my knees grinding 250lbs of coating and dust off a garage floor. Plus the fact that breathing that epoxy and xylene fumes from cleaning your tools will at worst shorten your life and at best melt your brain cells. Find another way to make a living while your still young.
@@greg4673 3 days. grind n prep, thick coating of base coat. blind with flake. Tip, light mist with water to level out vinyl flake. Blow and or vac excess next day. I'm liking 2 pac but moisture cure is fine. 2 uv stable top coats with little 80-120 Carborundum in last coat .
I watched the whole video , I do a lot of my work myself too (Painter/Carpenter) , but I was very impressed with you doing that job alone .... and i too have noticed a very strange thing about Garages .... No matter which way the wind is blowing , it is always blowing INTO the garage , never fails !!!!! lol .... Anyway , tons of respect to you for that job well done ..... ALONE .... You should have heard me when you "stopped and checked your phone" , I yelled "DUDE that craps settin up man !!!!" lol .... But you're all casual about it .... That's a pro
You just showed how important preparation is for proper adhesion and longevity. You cant stress that enough. I am a bit surprised you used a small hand grinder for such a large area. I have done 2 floor coatings now and both times I rented what looks like a floor buffer with a grinding disc attachment. The grinding disc looks similar to the one on your grinder only larger. I can grind a 1.5 car garage floor in under 1 hour. No need to be crouched down and leaning over. But I do like that wheeled contraption you used. And the floor turned out beautiful. Thanks for the video.
He mentioned at the beginning that his driveway was too long to get his trailer up there. He has probably ground over 100,000 sq. ft. of concrete and obviously did most of that with large grinders. Cheers, Alan Tomlinson
12 years ago I got brave and did the cheap Home Depot version of this. Wasn't happy with the results and it wore off where the car tires traveled over. You are so right about you get what you pay for.
in addition, good prep is essential. Especially his scoring of the cement under the existing coating. Excellent video. Obviously, earplugs are a must! That mobility cart is cool, knee pads would be good to have during the initial coping work.
The problem with the DIY kits is that they include half the amount used in a professional kit. Plus, they are water-based. So when the water evaporates, you have a surface that's only .25% as thick as a professional kit. That's a fact that they don't explain with those DIY kits. If you want a flake kit, the DIY kit only has 10lbs or so of flake, and a pro kit is 50-100lbs up to 200lbs of flake depending on the Mfg etc.
I did a "Flexmar" polyaspartic about 15 years ago in my basement. The 20min pot life was a booger, I would have never attempted it by myself. I had a buddy and we got it done and done right but it was tough. Once you mixed it was go go go. This product looks way easier to deal with.
Back in the late 70’s I worked for a commercial flooring company in Michigan for about 5 years that did an enormous amount of this kind of commercial/industrial flooring mostly in boiler rooms, mechanical rooms in large high rise buildings, fire department equipment areas. For most large areas we mostly used a walk behind scarfire machines, small rooms and inside corners just like you did we used a cabled grinder. One thing we did in like boiler rooms is we flashed the transition between the wall and floor with like a 1” wide 45 degree angle haunch as a seal for moisture. I really like the strip you used on the wall… never saw that before. Great video.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻excellent!!! I just retired from commercial painting. I started my company 35 yrs ago. I live in southeast alaska on an island. Everything you showed in your how to is years of experience talking. I remember when I first started how I got things wrong. However over the years your learn. My brother and I have a saying “cant buy experience “. I appreciate the time you take to film and show. Yes that product looks to be the best. Thank you for sharing
My parents house was built in 1967 and most of the floors were done in a continuous flooring, it was called Targanol I believe, It was an epoxy coating, white first then clear then flakes with different colors for each room. then sanded and coated with two coats of clear, it was very tough after thirty years showed very little wear, but was easily brought to new appearance in wear areas. I was 14 at the time. It is still there and still looks good. Looked very much as this does. That was 55 years ago.
I watched this start to finish as a refresher. I’m a handy-man and my go to is wood work. You did a great job here explaining everything. You showed patients, thanks. I will still be doing an epoxy floor on a porch but peanuts to the work of art on your garage floor ….looks fantastic. I’m here in South Carolina. Humidity now is better than several weeks ago that being said humidity and paint or applying epoxy really makes for trouble. Prep is key, thanks again.
Looks great. Back in the 50s they used to put floors like this inside homes. I don't know what type of materials they used then, but they would last forever. You just made the garage floor prettier than my kitchen counters.
That flooring system is called Terrazzo. Only used in airports and people with unlimited funds. About €90/ square foot installed. If you can find the right people.
At that time back concrete flooring type Terrazzo was made from Cement concrete mixed with marble (black;white;hazel;brown) flakes(small cubic partials of marble). After that polishing with machine...very dirty work at that time back 😉🙃🙂😉
I really appreciate you showing all the details , including cleaning. It really helps us get a realistic idea of everything we can run into and how much time it was take a beginner VS a pro like you! Again! Thank you! 🙏🏽 If I do my floors you are my first choice of system to use!
Like all nice looking jobs, 90% is preparation and 10% is installation. Thank you for showing us just how much goes into a beautiful floor. I think your prices are worth every penny.
If you use acetone in a spray bottle and spray the trowel and cove base I think you will be much happier with the amount of ease it puts on doing this type of installation Hope it helps! Good work
This comment is a life saver, the cove was collapsing every pass until I sprayed the trowel with alcohol (half remembering this tip) suddenly went on slick and smooth. So thank you. Also hasten to add that this is easier to work with when you add all the sand and use the above tip, and you seem to get more coverage. Your mileage may vary.
Funny, I came across this product in 1996. The guy was doing this in Quebec and i even did a few jobs with it in winnipeg in 99. all outside work....still stands up to this day!
I was installing this product years ago when it 1st came out, it is a nice product with tons colors to choose from. However it isn’t cheap and looks very similar to the cheap products most people have seen and used and have had problems with and some people have a hard time believing how much better this polyaspartic is. Ive done garages, shops, locker rooms, concrete floors in buildings, and lots of custom inlay designs from school logo, business logos, car brand logos and patterns. But that was a long time ago and idk how much it has changed the industry tho. Good luck with it and carry on man. And if someone watching this is interested in this product, look it up and check it out. Last a really long time and is very tough.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I have a quick question, can you apply this? Epoxy to a plywood floor? I have a 14x20 ft steel building with plywood flooring that I am turning into a woodworking shop. Would this epoxy finish be a good choice?
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I don't believe that'll be a problem because I weigh 386 lb and this floor is 3/4 inch plywood on 24-in centers and it doesn't even move with my weight walking on it.
Excellent tutorial! Your heart and soul is also in that floor but also in your business! May God bless your efforts and may you have a happy life! Best wishes from North Wales.
finally a person on youtube actually grinding the paint off of concrete..... - i work in epoxy resin flooring and it baffles me so many popular youtubers just pour over paint
I like your delivery. As a solo instructor some of the video issues are to be expected, but given the challenge you did a really good job on the video. You used some terms I was not sure what they meant (I am not in your business a DIYer). Overall a really good job and for my purposes found it to be very helpful. Thank you.
1:04:11 What you also can't see are the small Al2O3 particulate it leaves in the air for you to breathe. You should REALLY use a half face mask while spreading this out. With that said, WOW, what an amazing job you've done with that garage floor. Small details like getting close up to the drains and such all add up to make the overall result that much more appealing. The finish looks absolutely flawless and most importantly, when prepped correctly, will last decades. I can tell you've done a boatload of these because your technique is on point. Great puddle/film management, excellent timing, correct tools and handling, as well as great planning and keeping tidy and positioning everything so as to not impede your work/help you do it more easily. You've optimized the process which makes it easier and faster to do (and lets you get away with things like applying in sections with direct sunlight). Kudos! If I didn't have a tiled garage/driveway/etc, I'd love to get this done. A question I have is: is it easy to squeegee water out like it is on regular polished concrete flooring, or is it pretty grabby?
Sorry for the late delay. I appreciate your comments. This floor is very easy to squeegee. I typically use a wet mop that a janitor would normally use to clean the floor. Very easy to maintain.
Beautiful floor! It’s a lot of work but worth it, especially if proper procedures can be followed. Like anything, people have to be willing to follow the rules.
Wow great work. Doing the poor man's route of a gloss sealer for an external garage. You being very generous with the flakes seems to have helped a lot.
Wow you did an amazing job. I know through experience the first time I did this I learned from my mistakes. The prep work and planning is crucial along with decisions on the various options of products to use. Great job!
I picked up the materials from the store in Allentown in April 2024, and Jason gave me brief information about how to prep and install. After long delays due to my work schedule, I finally started to work on my DIY flooring project. As always, I state this; Prep work is the hardest part of any project you do. Grinding the floor and especially if you are doing cove mortar; that is hell of work and very challenging if you never did before. if you have irregular spacing between drywall and joints, it is very time-consuming. Once I am done with prep, I am confident that the rest of this will be a piece of cake. Some challenges I faced were finding the right rental equipment . If you don't reserve in advance for pro level diamond grinders, it costs double and sometimes not available. Unfortunately, I ended up buying Ryobi angle grinder 4.5 inch with cord. I also purchased Diamond Turbo cup wheel with surface dust shroud attachment and rented Hilti vacuum from Home Depot. It requires a lot of effort if you use hand grinders only. Jason & Jeff are most honest and trusted people in this industry I ever met. Thanks again guys for encouraging us for DIY flooring project. Hope to finish soon with great results.
@@mehmethuyuk8548 Thank you for the great feedback. As always, if you have any questions or need any assistance along the way, please let me know. We are always here to help.
SO Beautiful!!! Nice work!! I am curious how this type of floor holds up to someone who works on automobiles and has a lift installed? Also how does it compare to whatever the box store like home depot does on their floors?
These are extremely durable floors designed for working environments. I have a very similar system in my exterior garage with a lift. Here is a link to the video: Experimenting With A No Prep Epoxy Floor On Broom Finished Concrete. Urethane Topcoat Install. ua-cam.com/video/IK26uMFgj9M/v-deo.html Here is a link to the system I installed: concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/ I almost forgot to mention, these floors are 30 mils thick, big box store epoxy is water-based and put down at 2 mils thick. Our floors are 15 times thicker. Yes they cost more, but you get what you pay for.
I am curious if the 2 products you used on your garage floor had bad fumes associated with them. My experience with epoxy products is that they have warnings not to breathe in the vapors. You did an expert job on the floor and the results were great. I do have a catalog from Concrete Floor Solutions myself. So many products to fix just about any problem on a concrete floor but also a bit expensive so be prepared for that.
We have the same system in our 4 car garage. I don't know if is the same prep liquid used prior to the flakes, but our entire garage has a faint chocolate smell now...and you can still smell it a year later. Smells great!
Thank you. This has been an extremely useful demonstration. I'm grateful that you went over every detail and explained it completely. I'm considering this installation for a locker room floor, by the way because i think i can control the floor friction fairly well.
Shotblasters don't work too well on Coatings, the shot bounces off it. We have a 480 V shot blaster, but it is too big to work in small areas like that.
Greeat job, great video. Intense detail super well explained. Thank you I enjoyed it so much. I'm never going to have it done, but I watched your video for the entertainment and knowledge. Thanks.😊😊
I'd really like to do that in my garage. The main thing I am not sure about is what I should use to prep the floor. It was previous painted but it is very thin and flaking/peeling off. I'm good using buffers and wood floor sanders so I think I can handle whatever I need to use if I can just figure out what that is and where to get it.
Here is a link to our floor kits:concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/epoxy-floor-kits/ Prep work is the most important part. You must achieve a clean scratched concrete surface or NO material will bond properly. You can rent a walk behind grinder from your local rental company, or use a hand grinder like I did in this video. All of our floor kits ship for free and we are here to answer any questions you may have 610-972-5247 Jason.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks Jason. I will check the rental places to see what they have and will definitely check out your website for more info on supplies.
The floor looked kind of nice, like Terrazzo with just the epoxy. I have a small front balcony with a concrete floor I wouldn't mind doing something like what you did. You make it look easy. I'm not so sure about ding something like that myself.
I've been doing heavy industrial coatings for the last 20+ years and I've done my share of floor coatings I want to say good job installing the floor specially doing it by your self I personally would have done the edges first before doing the field And would have used a mill rake instead of flat squeeze But overall good job man it looks good and professionally done
When my parents had their house built in 1973, they made certain that the foundation where the garage door touches down and outward was 1 inch below the garage floor. Then when the driveway was poured they made certain that it started 1 inch below where the garage door touches. That way there is a 2 inch drop in 2 parts from the garage floor to the driveway. Then the driveway has an 8 inch drop from the garage to the end of the driveway. Water has never gotten past the garage door to the garage floor.
You do an excellent job on you edges and corners! That's where your experience comes in handy. Wouldn't the average homeowner have to tape off walls and where the coating is going to stop at the drive? It seems like it could be a real mess to clean up if you make a mistake and hit the drive. I know paint can be a real problem when it gets onto concrete where you didn't want it to go. Any tricks of the trade for such situations?
Thank you so much for showing how it is done, quotes I've had to have my tiny 25 square meter apartment are crazy so your video will certainly encourage me to do it myself! Subscribed, liked and commented!
Fabulous job and you are a very hard worker and you are very good at what you do so I’m impressed and I know never doing this it wouldn’t turn out as good but you made a really nice detailed video and thank you for sharing
With over 30 years supervision as a site manager in Australia building clean rooms, laboratories, food processing rooms and abattoirs I have seen many different types of epoxy floors from flake types in laboratories, 6mm high build in clean rooms were finish epoxy was rolled using rake rollers to remove air pockets ,2mm-3mm layers of epoxy paints or 10mm shureshield using multiple sizes of sand and epoxy mix and trowelled on, used mainly to floors were different types of acids and alkaline that can attack the concrete floor to high wear areas ie abattoirs floors were we start with the concrete using 40mpa (I think 7000+psi) strength adding Caltite water proofing to the concrete mix (double the cost of the concrete) then finishing with 3mm-4mm epoxy chips trowelled into the top of the concrete and finished with trowelling machine 3 to 4 times this becomes a hard wearing floor One of the problems we had in high wear areas using epoxy roller types finishes were forklifts would drop there tynes on the epoxy which would break up the epoxy like ( pothole in a road) water would get under the epoxy the forks would push the water like a wedge and the epoxy would come up in sheets The way we did expansion joints was clean the inside edges of the joint with a saw fill the joint with a stiff sand epoxy mix do the floor finish then cut the joint install a backing rod and finish with a good quality joint filler The correct way to do an expansion if the gap is 10mm wide the backing rod is down 10mm making the bottom of the sealant concave up and the top of the joint will concave down this means that in the middle is the thin part of the sealant this allows the joint to stretch without breaking away from the edges
Man, you’re a hard worker. The results are amazing! 🤩 I want to do this in my shop. I might have to rent a connex box first though, I have too much tools (if there is such a thing lol).
You can never have too many tools. The day you get rid of one, you will need it the next day. Thanks for watching, if you are interested in our materials, I will be more than happy to assist you.
I used a dual component Polyaspartic coating on garage floors for a number of years and found that even if you mixed partial amounts and resealed the cans, the cans could only be opened one more time because the tops would seal to the can and you would have to cut the lids open. It worked well as a sealer but you needed to wear a respirator during mixing and application. And if the cottonwood was blowing ... not fun. If your tires are hot leave the car outside until they cool before parking inside the garage.
Any garage floor coating that you can not park on with hot tires is BS, I would get rid of it or just let it go to shit because if you can't park in your own garage after driving in the summer what good is having a garage.
i think if you pulled the bottom sections of the garage door rails off it would be really clean look. I had very rusty bottoms on my door rails so i removed them and cut off about a 1/4" inch, painted them and left them of when they coated my floor. So now they sit above the floor with less of a chance of water wicking up the rails like before.
I am still on the fence about the splash guard. If I have a regular one and I need to affect repairs. I know I can replace a section and it looks good as new. This video needs a companion vid showing how "easy" repairs are.
It`s beautiful, my neighbor had it done by a guy who was good at it like you, he ground the floor with a big machine, but it was $1,300, he was done in 2 days, he gave her a five year warranty, any problems at all and he would fix it, it`s a lot of work involved, looks great.
Good luck with that, for $1300 you can't even purchase the material. He either didn't do the right prep work or used an expensive material. That is actually impossible to do a quality job that price.
I always thought there would be some sort of single component eventually. The hardners always gets catalyzed if any air gets to it. How long have you been using this product, and how durable is it?
Working time on this material is excellent. You get approximately 30 minutes of working time, a little longer if it's cooler, a little shorter if it's hot. Recoat time is approximately three hours, again, a little less if it's hot a little more if it's cool. Here is a link to the data sheet for the material. Believe it or not it actually is equal or more durable than most two component polyaspartics: concretefloorsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/CFS-1C-POLYASPARTIC-technical-data-sheet.pdf Here is a link to the kit: concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit-1-day-system/ Here is a link to just the clear CFS-1C Polyaspartic:concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-1c-polyaspartic-single-component-polyaspartic-coating/ If you have any other questions, please email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
How is that a single component??? You have to mix each coat, don't you??? If you have to mix something together, that's not a single component. Unless I'm not understanding what you are talking about???
@@Shandele3 The top coat is a single component material. You open the can and pour it on the floor. The base coat is the same single component material also, but if you want to add color to it, you add the color and stir it in. It is not a Hardner, it is a color. Both single component, no hardners added.
@@Shandele3 Basically... First coat could be applied with no additive, making it a single component product. It sets and cures by itself. Color is simply an allowable additive to achieve the desired look, Color is not needed just wanted. Several components to the complete process used here though :)
lol in Florida 2 years ago, lovebugs swarmed on the day I had to do 5000 square feet of clear polyaspartic for a veterinary hospital floor. I had to call the super and postpone it as they kept finding ways inside somehow, black specks were everywhere in the area we started and stopped. I think they were attracted to the awful smell poly gives?
Nice job! I just had my garage floor done & its gorgeous. The cove looks great but in watching you, they must hav done it differently bc I can see the bottom of the drywall altho its higher than it was. Its like they cut it. They also used a huge sander that you walk behind. Also, there were a few areas around the perimeter, in front of laundry room door, that hurt to walk on with bare feet. I guess they sanded it down wen they fixed it? I went with Grey/Black bc those are the colors of my house.
Wow, this was an excellent video. I actually feel like I could do this. Was a bit confused about the scraping after the flake, but it was cleared up later when you vacuumed up the excess.
If you feel like tackling the project yourself, please reach out to me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com I will be more than happy to guide you
thanks for the the valuable tips ! I have a 7 yr old garage floor that was only topped with a sealer. do i have to grind the floor down or can i power wash and apply. Its a smooth finish of coarse
Yes, you absolutely need to remove that sealer. No coating will penetrate through the sealer. You need to create a scratch in the surface of the concrete for the primer to penetrate into. Any preparation less than that could result in failure.
I appreciate you watching. Yes, it can be installed interior, I would recommend a different topcoat that doesn't have as much odor. The cfs-clear uv topcoat would be what I recommend If you have any questions at all, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
I truly hope people can appreciate the level of detail and labor that goes into such a project. Well done.
Yeah, and as a contractor I do wish people understood how much time, how many special tools, and how many disposable items go along with it! You can't believe how much Brow Beating we get when quoting a retail price!!!!
The installation on a two stall should be $2500. That's 1.5 men for 2.0 days average. Or 1 man 2.5 days.
@@greg4673 for material and labor, that sounds about right.
@@greg4673 You're nuts. The material alone is close to $2k. Not only that, you couldn't pay me enough to spent 8 hours on my knees grinding 250lbs of coating and dust off a garage floor. Plus the fact that breathing that epoxy and xylene fumes from cleaning your tools will at worst shorten your life and at best melt your brain cells. Find another way to make a living while your still young.
@@greg4673 3 days. grind n prep, thick coating of base coat. blind with flake. Tip, light mist with water to level out vinyl flake. Blow and or vac excess next day. I'm liking 2 pac but moisture cure is fine. 2 uv stable top coats with little 80-120 Carborundum in last coat .
I couldn't tear myself away. I never got bored watching this.
I would just like to say at 42:49, the clip holding the bucket upside down to get all the material all out....GENIUS!!! Totally stealing that trick.
I watched the whole video , I do a lot of my work myself too (Painter/Carpenter) , but I was very impressed with you doing that job alone .... and i too have noticed a very strange thing about Garages .... No matter which way the wind is blowing , it is always blowing INTO the garage , never fails !!!!! lol .... Anyway , tons of respect to you for that job well done ..... ALONE .... You should have heard me when you "stopped and checked your phone" , I yelled "DUDE that craps settin up man !!!!" lol .... But you're all casual about it .... That's a pro
Holy shit - what a job. I’m exhausted just from watching this. I cannot believe how much work this entails.
You just showed how important preparation is for proper adhesion and longevity. You cant stress that enough. I am a bit surprised you used a small hand grinder for such a large area. I have done 2 floor coatings now and both times I rented what looks like a floor buffer with a grinding disc attachment. The grinding disc looks similar to the one on your grinder only larger. I can grind a 1.5 car garage floor in under 1 hour. No need to be crouched down and leaning over. But I do like that wheeled contraption you used. And the floor turned out beautiful. Thanks for the video.
He mentioned at the beginning that his driveway was too long to get his trailer up there. He has probably ground over 100,000 sq. ft. of concrete and obviously did most of that with large grinders.
Cheers,
Alan Tomlinson
Your expertise is frankly amazing. I know many people will want to copy you, but after seeing the level of professionalism I would want to hire you.
Your not in New England right or yeah I would consider having you come and do the work
@@catistrolling7333 No I'm in old England. Specifically Newcastle upon Tyne, which is a city on the North East coast where Hadrian's Wall starts.
12 years ago I got brave and did the cheap Home Depot version of this. Wasn't happy with the results and it wore off where the car tires traveled over. You are so right about you get what you pay for.
in addition, good prep is essential. Especially his scoring of the cement under the existing coating. Excellent video. Obviously, earplugs are a must! That mobility cart is cool, knee pads would be good to have during the initial coping work.
The problem with the DIY kits is that they include half the amount used in a professional kit. Plus, they are water-based. So when the water evaporates, you have a surface that's only .25% as thick as a professional kit. That's a fact that they don't explain with those DIY kits. If you want a flake kit, the DIY kit only has 10lbs or so of flake, and a pro kit is 50-100lbs up to 200lbs of flake depending on the Mfg etc.
I did a "Flexmar" polyaspartic about 15 years ago in my basement. The 20min pot life was a booger, I would have never attempted it by myself. I had a buddy and we got it done and done right but it was tough. Once you mixed it was go go go. This product looks way easier to deal with.
Back in the late 70’s I worked for a commercial flooring company in Michigan for about 5 years that did an enormous amount of this kind of commercial/industrial flooring mostly in boiler rooms, mechanical rooms in large high rise buildings, fire department equipment areas.
For most large areas we mostly used a walk behind scarfire machines, small rooms and inside corners just like you did we used a cabled grinder. One thing we did in like boiler rooms is we flashed the transition between the wall and floor with like a 1” wide 45 degree angle haunch as a seal for moisture.
I really like the strip you used on the wall… never saw that before. Great video.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻excellent!!! I just retired from commercial painting. I started my company 35 yrs ago. I live in southeast alaska on an island. Everything you showed in your how to is years of experience talking. I remember when I first started how I got things wrong. However over the years your learn. My brother and I have a saying “cant buy experience “. I appreciate the time you take to film and show. Yes that product looks to be the best. Thank you for sharing
You are an absolute pro my friend...There is no way in hell I could've done that without taping it all off.
My parents house was built in 1967 and most of the floors were done in a continuous flooring, it was called Targanol I believe, It was an epoxy coating, white first then clear then flakes with different colors for each room. then sanded and coated with two coats of clear, it was very tough after thirty years showed very little wear, but was easily brought to new appearance in wear areas. I was 14 at the time. It is still there and still looks good. Looked very much as this does. That was 55 years ago.
Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful! I have a whole new appreciation and respect for the work that goes into installing flake floor.
I watched this start to finish as a refresher. I’m a handy-man and my go to is wood work. You did a great job here explaining everything. You showed patients, thanks. I will still be doing an epoxy floor on a porch but peanuts to the work of art on your garage floor ….looks fantastic. I’m here in South Carolina. Humidity now is better than several weeks ago that being said humidity and paint or applying epoxy really makes for trouble. Prep is key, thanks again.
Looks great. Back in the 50s they used to put floors like this inside homes. I don't know what type of materials they used then, but they would last forever. You just made the garage floor prettier than my kitchen counters.
That flooring system is called Terrazzo. Only used in airports and people with unlimited funds. About €90/ square foot installed. If you can find the right people.
At that time back concrete flooring type Terrazzo was made from Cement concrete mixed with marble (black;white;hazel;brown) flakes(small cubic partials of marble). After that polishing with machine...very dirty work at that time back 😉🙃🙂😉
I particularly enjoyed the Easy To Install Single Component-part.
I really appreciate you showing all the details , including cleaning. It really helps us get a realistic idea of everything we can run into and how much time it was take a beginner VS a pro like you!
Again! Thank you! 🙏🏽
If I do my floors you are my first choice of system to use!
What a great tutorial. Informative and presented in such an easy to understand manner. Great job done by a pro!
I love your little buggy ,looks like a great back and knee saver.
Where was it purchased
My son had this done in his 3 car garage and the results were AMAZING.
Like all nice looking jobs, 90% is preparation and 10% is installation. Thank you for showing us just how much goes into a beautiful floor. I think your prices are worth every penny.
Thanks for watching, appreciate the feedback.
What a amount of work, great job kid!
Excellent tutorial. Narrative, explanation and video work were as good as the final product!
If you use acetone in a spray bottle and spray the trowel and cove base I think you will be much happier with the amount of ease it puts on doing this type of installation
Hope it helps! Good work
This comment is a life saver, the cove was collapsing every pass until I sprayed the trowel with alcohol (half remembering this tip) suddenly went on slick and smooth. So thank you. Also hasten to add that this is easier to work with when you add all the sand and use the above tip, and you seem to get more coverage. Your mileage may vary.
Funny, I came across this product in 1996. The guy was doing this in Quebec and i even did a few jobs with it in winnipeg in 99. all outside work....still stands up to this day!
Are you sure? This is epoxy after all! 🤔Not very recommended for outside work .
@@cyberfandvd positive, I still go by some of the jobs every now and again.... and we have northern canada winters
Wow! You did a beautiful job! I really enjoyed watching you work...very professional and clean!
It`s fantastic.It`s what I wanted for a floor to my place.I now know how they go about making such a floor finish.Thanks a lot for the video.
I was installing this product years ago when it 1st came out, it is a nice product with tons colors to choose from. However it isn’t cheap and looks very similar to the cheap products most people have seen and used and have had problems with and some people have a hard time believing how much better this polyaspartic is. Ive done garages, shops, locker rooms, concrete floors in buildings, and lots of custom inlay designs from school logo, business logos, car brand logos and patterns. But that was a long time ago and idk how much it has changed the industry tho. Good luck with it and carry on man. And if someone watching this is interested in this product, look it up and check it out. Last a really long time and is very tough.
Absolutely love the DG-150 used so many different types over the years with the tile trade but these are so impressive .
Couldn't agree more!
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions
I have a quick question, can you apply this? Epoxy to a plywood floor?
I have a 14x20 ft steel building with plywood flooring that I am turning into a woodworking shop.
Would this epoxy finish be a good choice?
@@ke4uyp Yes, it absolutely would work. The only issue you may have is if the joints move, it may crack on the joints.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I don't believe that'll be a problem because I weigh 386 lb and this floor is 3/4 inch plywood on 24-in centers and it doesn't even move with my weight walking on it.
Excellent tutorial! Your heart and soul is also in that floor but also in your business! May God bless your efforts and may you have a happy life! Best wishes from North Wales.
Thank you for watching, and the words of encouragement.
I cannot believe one guy did this floor. Impressive and definitely not as easy as he made it look. 👍🏻
finally a person on youtube actually grinding the paint off of concrete..... - i work in epoxy resin flooring and it baffles me so many popular youtubers just pour over paint
I like your delivery. As a solo instructor some of the video issues are to be expected, but given the challenge you did a really good job on the video. You used some terms I was not sure what they meant (I am not in your business a DIYer). Overall a really good job and for my purposes found it to be very helpful. Thank you.
1:04:11 What you also can't see are the small Al2O3 particulate it leaves in the air for you to breathe. You should REALLY use a half face mask while spreading this out. With that said, WOW, what an amazing job you've done with that garage floor. Small details like getting close up to the drains and such all add up to make the overall result that much more appealing. The finish looks absolutely flawless and most importantly, when prepped correctly, will last decades. I can tell you've done a boatload of these because your technique is on point. Great puddle/film management, excellent timing, correct tools and handling, as well as great planning and keeping tidy and positioning everything so as to not impede your work/help you do it more easily. You've optimized the process which makes it easier and faster to do (and lets you get away with things like applying in sections with direct sunlight). Kudos! If I didn't have a tiled garage/driveway/etc, I'd love to get this done. A question I have is: is it easy to squeegee water out like it is on regular polished concrete flooring, or is it pretty grabby?
Sorry for the late delay. I appreciate your comments. This floor is very easy to squeegee. I typically use a wet mop that a janitor would normally use to clean the floor. Very easy to maintain.
Great video. Very thorough explanation of the product, the process and details to help out the first timers. Thank you so much for sharing.
That flooring should be a given with every new house build! Beautiful look!😊
Absolutely beautiful! Love the transformation- never gets old. Your video work is really good
Beautiful floor! It’s a lot of work but worth it, especially if proper procedures can be followed. Like anything, people have to be willing to follow the rules.
Love the kneely cart. Genius.
Wow great work. Doing the poor man's route of a gloss sealer for an external garage. You being very generous with the flakes seems to have helped a lot.
You made this look so easy that other videos. I’ll be following this for my garage 🙂
Great video, I like how you take your time explaining everything for dummies like me…..
Wow you did an amazing job. I know through experience the first time I did this I learned from my mistakes. The prep work and planning is crucial along with decisions on the various options of products to use. Great job!
I picked up the materials from the store in Allentown in April 2024, and Jason gave me brief information about how to prep and install. After long delays due to my work schedule, I finally started to work on my DIY flooring project. As always, I state this; Prep work is the hardest part of any project you do. Grinding the floor and especially if you are doing cove mortar; that is hell of work and very challenging if you never did before. if you have irregular spacing between drywall and joints, it is very time-consuming.
Once I am done with prep, I am confident that the rest of this will be a piece of cake.
Some challenges I faced were finding the right rental equipment . If you don't reserve in advance for pro level diamond grinders, it costs double and sometimes not available. Unfortunately, I ended up buying Ryobi angle grinder 4.5 inch with cord. I also purchased Diamond Turbo cup wheel with surface dust shroud attachment and rented Hilti vacuum from Home Depot. It requires a lot of effort if you use hand grinders only.
Jason & Jeff are most honest and trusted people in this industry I ever met. Thanks again guys for encouraging us for DIY flooring project. Hope to finish soon with great results.
@@mehmethuyuk8548 Thank you for the great feedback. As always, if you have any questions or need any assistance along the way, please let me know. We are always here to help.
SO Beautiful!!! Nice work!! I am curious how this type of floor holds up to someone who works on automobiles and has a lift installed? Also how does it compare to whatever the box store like home depot does on their floors?
These are extremely durable floors designed for working environments. I have a very similar system in my exterior garage with a lift. Here is a link to the video:
Experimenting With A No Prep Epoxy Floor On Broom Finished Concrete. Urethane Topcoat Install.
ua-cam.com/video/IK26uMFgj9M/v-deo.html
Here is a link to the system I installed:
concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/
I almost forgot to mention, these floors are 30 mils thick, big box store epoxy is water-based and put down at 2 mils thick. Our floors are 15 times thicker. Yes they cost more, but you get what you pay for.
I have a new garage & in one corner rain sweeps in. Even new garage door still happens. So with your video I am confidential I can sand that spot.
I am curious if the 2 products you used on your garage floor had bad fumes associated with them. My experience with epoxy products is that they have warnings not to breathe in the vapors. You did an expert job on the floor and the results were great. I do have a catalog from Concrete Floor Solutions myself. So many products to fix just about any problem on a concrete floor but also a bit expensive so be prepared for that.
He doesn't need to be prepared, he's the owner.
We have the same system in our 4 car garage. I don't know if is the same prep liquid used prior to the flakes, but our entire garage has a faint chocolate smell now...and you can still smell it a year later. Smells great!
The end result is the reward for a lot of back breaking work, if ever you pay someone to do this for you, will know they earned every penny
I loved this video. It was satisfying seeing the Job to it's completion along with the explanation.
Thanks for watching
Thank you. This has been an extremely useful demonstration. I'm grateful that you went over every detail and explained it completely. I'm considering this installation for a locker room floor, by the way because i think i can control the floor friction fairly well.
If you have any questions on preparation, materials or installation, please let me know. Jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
a brilliant job Sir, you worked very hard for a lovely result. cheers from NZ
Wish you lived here in Ottawa Canada. The people that did mine screwed it up ROYALLLLLLY! Great video and well-done sir.
a shot blaster with vacuum works incredibly fast. we use them on bridge decks prior to applying epoxy.
Shotblasters don't work too well on Coatings, the shot bounces off it. We have a 480 V shot blaster, but it is too big to work in small areas like that.
What's a bridge deck???
@@Shandele3 the concrete road surface on a bridge.
Thank you for demonstrating as one person doing the job.
Greeat job, great video. Intense detail super well explained. Thank you I enjoyed it so much. I'm never going to have it done, but I watched your video for the entertainment and knowledge. Thanks.😊😊
Wow... what a lot of work, what a great professional job!
Beautiful floor!
I'd really like to do that in my garage. The main thing I am not sure about is what I should use to prep the floor. It was previous painted but it is very thin and flaking/peeling off. I'm good using buffers and wood floor sanders so I think I can handle whatever I need to use if I can just figure out what that is and where to get it.
Here is a link to our floor kits:concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/epoxy-floor-kits/
Prep work is the most important part. You must achieve a clean scratched concrete surface or NO material will bond properly.
You can rent a walk behind grinder from your local rental company, or use a hand grinder like I did in this video. All of our floor kits ship for free and we are here to answer any questions you may have 610-972-5247 Jason.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks Jason. I will check the rental places to see what they have and will definitely check out your website for more info on supplies.
@@garyh4458 Home Depot has them
The floor looked kind of nice, like Terrazzo with just the epoxy. I have a small front balcony with a concrete floor I wouldn't mind doing something like what you did. You make it look easy. I'm not so sure about ding something like that myself.
I've been doing heavy industrial coatings for the last 20+ years and I've done my share of floor coatings
I want to say good job installing the floor specially doing it by your self
I personally would have done the edges first before doing the field
And would have used a mill rake instead of flat squeeze
But overall good job man it looks good and professionally done
When my parents had their house built in 1973, they made certain that the foundation where the garage door touches down and outward was 1 inch below the garage floor. Then when the driveway was poured they made certain that it started 1 inch below where the garage door touches. That way there is a 2 inch drop in 2 parts from the garage floor to the driveway. Then the driveway has an 8 inch drop from the garage to the end of the driveway. Water has never gotten past the garage door to the garage floor.
Good planning
You do an excellent job on you edges and corners! That's where your experience comes in handy. Wouldn't the average homeowner have to tape off walls and where the coating is going to stop at the drive? It seems like it could be a real mess to clean up if you make a mistake and hit the drive. I know paint can be a real problem when it gets onto concrete where you didn't want it to go. Any tricks of the trade for such situations?
Thank you so much for showing how it is done, quotes I've had to have my tiny 25 square meter apartment are crazy so your video will certainly encourage me to do it myself! Subscribed, liked and commented!
Dagon that looks rich !!! It really changed the look of the whole room. Nice job now iam going to see about doing my floor.
Outstanding work and great video - so much practical knowledge gained from experience doing these projects!
Fabulous job and you are a very hard worker and you are very good at what you do so I’m impressed and I know never doing this it wouldn’t turn out as good but you made a really nice detailed video and thank you for sharing
With over 30 years supervision as a site manager in Australia building clean rooms, laboratories, food processing rooms and abattoirs I have seen many different types of epoxy floors from flake types in laboratories, 6mm high build in clean rooms were finish epoxy was rolled using rake rollers to remove air pockets ,2mm-3mm layers of epoxy paints or 10mm shureshield using multiple sizes of sand and epoxy mix and trowelled on, used mainly to floors were different types of acids and alkaline that can attack the concrete floor to high wear areas ie abattoirs floors were we start with the concrete using 40mpa (I think 7000+psi) strength adding Caltite water proofing to the concrete mix (double the cost of the concrete) then finishing with 3mm-4mm epoxy chips trowelled into the top of the concrete and finished with trowelling machine 3 to 4 times this becomes a hard wearing floor One of the problems we had in high wear areas using epoxy roller types finishes were forklifts would drop there tynes on the epoxy which would break up the epoxy like ( pothole in a road) water would get under the epoxy the forks would push the water like a wedge and the epoxy would come up in sheets The way we did expansion joints was clean the inside edges of the joint with a saw fill the joint with a stiff sand epoxy mix do the floor finish then cut the joint install a backing rod and finish with a good quality joint filler The correct way to do an expansion if the gap is 10mm wide the backing rod is down 10mm making the bottom of the sealant concave up and the top of the joint will concave down this means that in the middle is the thin part of the sealant this allows the joint to stretch without breaking away from the edges
U need to do a video, if you haven't already.
Gordon, that wasn’t very detailed, could you expound on that more ? 🤪 ( Just kidding, nice job ).
@@Rainman270 Jaja.
@@davidbaldwin1591 Good suggestion.
@@davidbaldwin1591 I was thinking he needs to do a video. %100
Man, you’re a hard worker. The results are amazing! 🤩 I want to do this in my shop. I might have to rent a connex box first though, I have too much tools (if there is such a thing lol).
You can never have too many tools.
The day you get rid of one, you will need it the next day.
Thanks for watching, if you are interested in our materials, I will be more than happy to assist you.
I used a dual component Polyaspartic coating on garage floors for a number of years and found that even if you mixed partial amounts and resealed the cans, the cans could only be opened one more time because the tops would seal to the can and you would have to cut the lids open. It worked well as a sealer but you needed to wear a respirator during mixing and application. And if the cottonwood was blowing ... not fun. If your tires are hot leave the car outside until they cool before parking inside the garage.
Hot tires won't be a problem on this material. thanks for watching.
Any garage floor coating that you can not park on with hot tires is BS, I would get rid of it or just let it go to shit because if you can't park in your own garage after driving in the summer what good is having a garage.
@@phillhuddleston9445 agreed 100%, as per the answer above, hot tires are not a problem with this coating.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions please contact Mr. & Mrs. Ivey per garage floor.
@@davidivey6585 I have no way of contacting you. If you need to contact me please email me jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Great job, great video! Quick question. Do you also scrape the vertical (cove) areas?
i think if you pulled the bottom sections of the garage door rails off it would be really clean look. I had very rusty bottoms on my door rails so i removed them and cut off about a 1/4" inch, painted them and left them of when they coated my floor. So now they sit above the floor with less of a chance of water wicking up the rails like before.
I agree, I cut them off 1/2-3/4 of a inch. Easier to clean and do your work. A Zip disk you can easily do them in place
Good tip, thanks for sharing
... Simply most therapeutic to watch 🥰😎 🇬🇧🇨🇦
I want to start my own flooring company. Idk if videos like these will get me prepared enough to start taking jobs and doing them myself
I'm still waiting to get to the easy part. Turned out great
I am still on the fence about the splash guard.
If I have a regular one and I need to affect repairs.
I know I can replace a section and it looks good as new.
This video needs a companion vid showing how "easy" repairs are.
Audience, Man that looks amazing and that's what I want for my three garages. Kudos🤜🏼🤛🏼✌🏼.
FANTASTIC JOB BUD 👍👍LOVE THE FINISH 👍👍
Outstanding video! You didn't miss a thing, and everything described in appropriate detail.
Beautiful and well explained. Bravo. 👍
The calculation of how much coverage per batch and the amount of time spent grinding are very helpful parts of this video.
great
me, not knowing anything, thinks its a bit too gritty, but marvelous work, thank you for the time, effort and care.
thanks
My knees are hurting watching this.
Long work u did a wonderful wonderful job do appreciate watching from Toronto
It`s beautiful, my neighbor had it done by a guy who was good at it like you, he ground the floor with a big machine, but it was $1,300, he was done in 2 days, he gave her a five year warranty, any problems at all and he would fix it, it`s a lot of work involved, looks great.
Good luck with that, for $1300 you can't even purchase the material. He either didn't do the right prep work or used an expensive material. That is actually impossible to do a quality job that price.
I always thought there would be some sort of single component eventually. The hardners always gets catalyzed if any air gets to it. How long have you been using this product, and how durable is it?
Working time on this material is excellent. You get approximately 30 minutes of working time, a little longer if it's cooler, a little shorter if it's hot.
Recoat time is approximately three hours, again, a little less if it's hot a little more if it's cool.
Here is a link to the data sheet for the material. Believe it or not it actually is equal or more durable than most two component polyaspartics:
concretefloorsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/CFS-1C-POLYASPARTIC-technical-data-sheet.pdf
Here is a link to the kit:
concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit-1-day-system/
Here is a link to just the clear CFS-1C Polyaspartic:concretefloorsolutions.com/product/cfs-1c-polyaspartic-single-component-polyaspartic-coating/
If you have any other questions, please email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
How is that a single component??? You have to mix each coat, don't you??? If you have to mix something together, that's not a single component. Unless I'm not understanding what you are talking about???
@@Shandele3 The top coat is a single component material. You open the can and pour it on the floor.
The base coat is the same single component material also, but if you want to add color to it, you add the color and stir it in. It is not a Hardner, it is a color.
Both single component, no hardners added.
@@Shandele3 Basically... First coat could be applied with no additive, making it a single component product. It sets and cures by itself. Color is simply an allowable additive to achieve the desired look, Color is not needed just wanted. Several components to the complete process used here though :)
@@Shandele3 Fumd Duck
lol in Florida 2 years ago, lovebugs swarmed on the day I had to do 5000 square feet of clear polyaspartic for a veterinary hospital floor. I had to call the super and postpone it as they kept finding ways inside somehow, black specks were everywhere in the area we started and stopped. I think they were attracted to the awful smell poly gives?
Nice job! I just had my garage floor done & its gorgeous. The cove looks great but in watching you, they must hav done it differently bc I can see the bottom of the drywall altho its higher than it was. Its like they cut it. They also used a huge sander that you walk behind. Also, there were a few areas around the perimeter, in front of laundry room door, that hurt to walk on with bare feet. I guess they sanded it down wen they fixed it? I went with Grey/Black bc those are the colors of my house.
If the drywall wasn't firmly attached to something all along the bottom, then they did the right thing IMO.
My gosh 😅
I wish you were in the Uk 🇬🇧..
Staffordshire..
Love this exact finish in my garage..
Top trades man 10-10
Beautiful work and very informative! 👍🏻👏🏼
Wow, this was an excellent video. I actually feel like I could do this. Was a bit confused about the scraping after the flake, but it was cleared up later when you vacuumed up the excess.
If you feel like tackling the project yourself, please reach out to me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
I will be more than happy to guide you
it's about time somebody brought that coating back my dad had that put down in his garage in 73 and it still looks good
Great presentation! I am happy I paid to have it done by professionals.
You did a great job l really loved it
Bravo--that floor is absolutley gourgous!!!!!
great video and beautiful job!
thanks for the the valuable tips ! I have a 7 yr old garage floor that was only topped with a sealer. do i have to grind the floor down or can i power wash and apply. Its a smooth finish of coarse
Yes, you absolutely need to remove that sealer. No coating will penetrate through the sealer. You need to create a scratch in the surface of the concrete for the primer to penetrate into.
Any preparation less than that could result in failure.
Thanks for the share it must have taking a lot of work to get this out Merry Christmas
43 seconds in it is already not "easy to install."
Cove sucks but easy once you do a few. After about 20 jobs you can almost do it blind but the fist 10 are always fails lol
I see nothing about this that’s “easy”
I would love it if he'd come and do this to my garage & basement floor in NC.
@@BeerBreath702🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Wow, nice video. You make it look really easy thanks for sharing all of Your info
It's a joy to watch you work with such high level skill and attention to detail. Beautiful result! Can this be done in interior living spaces?
I appreciate you watching. Yes, it can be installed interior, I would recommend a different topcoat that doesn't have as much odor.
The cfs-clear uv topcoat would be what I recommend
If you have any questions at all, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
That's a lot of work, but the end result is really nice. Beats the heck out of an old oil-stained garage floor.
Thanks for sharing, I have never seen that fibre come up through the concrete like that.