I always appreciate your videos. You deserve much more followers with how in depth and straightforward you are with your videos. I’m sure your customers are customers for life!
Thanks my friend. I always appreciate comments. Especially ones that let us know we are on the right track. We’ll keep um coming for ya. Thanks for watchin.
Always nice to watch other people working on their trucks, a person gains a lot of knowledge on a 7.3 that way. Always said my truck will probably out live me, its a 2001 Crew Cab with 535,000+ miles now. I've gradually replacing all the 20+ years of sensors, etc. Tell Christian I have a wiring harness sitting in a box until I get time to put it in there... :)
Will do bud. I like to hear that we are making a difference and not just putting out more b s on the ole inner web. Lol I’ll keep them coming and appreciate your comments. Keep me posted on the ole gal. I may be buying one back with similar miles that was wrecked so your should have plenty of life left in her. I’ve worked on a few with over 850k and still trucking. Thanks for watchin.
good video. Thought I should add that the plug removed from the fuel bowl is in fact #4 orb (o-ring boss) thread, which is 7/16” -20 thread size, not your typical fitting (except at a hydraulics shop). the adapter elbow is that to typically 1/8 npt, the most common schrader valve size and they can be purchased on amazon "Fuel Pressure Sensor Thread Adapter for 7.3 Ford".
Always good to hear that our videos helped a viewer. We are just like y’all, trying to keep our ole gals on the road. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Quick question. I have a 97 F350 and am wondering if yours is a mechanical fuel pump or electric for this test. I unfortunately recently ran out of fuel and despite using the bleeder valve I'm now not getting fuel into the filter bowl. I know I have a mechanical fuel pump and need my truck running so I can get back to work.
If your truck isn’t getting fuel u can pour fuel directly into the fuel bowl to get the truck started and it will then actuate the fuel pump from there on if it won’t self feed. This is a special trick I learned from my pops
Hey I've got a 1988 Ford with 7,3. If you let it sit for 3 days it's hard to start. I think it's losing fuel psi. Can I put a electric fuel pump on and eliminate the manual? If so which electric pump would you recommend. Thanks
I haven’t had the need to replace the manual with an electric on older 7.3’s. But as long as you have a pump that can meet the needs pressure wise for your truck I doubt it would matter electric or manual
I have bad injector knock on cylinder #2 I’ve put 8 new injectors still there so I unplugged all the injectors when cylinder 2 is unplugged the noise goes away so i replaced that injector again it was quiet for about 10 minutes then the knock came back
Hey bud. Saw your comment early this morning. Seems like u may have an electrical issue that isn’t pulsing the #2 injector the same as the rest. They are all getting the same fuel and oil so that kinda rules that out. Sense u replaced it twice and the noise is still there the only system left is electrical. Meaning wiring or idm. You put new uvch and still nothing. I’d inspect the cylinder #2 pin on the 9 pin connector for damage or signs of heat. If that’s good then I’d back up to the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover and give it a hard look over for chafing. You could also ohm out the harnesses like I did in the IDM wire harness pin test video. And finally do u have any codes?
Hey i have a 7.3L on a F350 im having hell getting it started. it will crank wont start. i replaced the IPR and the Cam Sensor. i unplugged the ICP to bypass that still didnt start. yesterday i drained the fuel bowl using the valve on the side. drained it went back to the ignite turned the key fired up INSTANTLY and died after 5 seconds. i went and got some diesel becuase i was at 1/4th a tank went to start it again FIRED right up. IDLED terrible! for like 5 minutes then the idle was fine i turned it off and started it again firing right up again running smooth. took it for a drive was perfect. came back the next day and the same thing as before cranks but wont start. ANY ideas? only has 131k miles on it
Im probably wrong but it could be hpop related. Does the truck have enough oil? Does it build pressure? Does the hpop leak? You can also test the oil from the resubmit test bolt at the top suck some oil out see if it’s bad. It’s probably some other issue but thought I’d try to help anyway
@@bayoudieselmy problem is normally start with ether and the rest of the day runs great, but after two or three day no start and I have to use ether again, thank for help me🙏🏻
@@D0nie11 if you are thinking fuel issue such as fuel bleeding back to the tank when sitting for a while then one thing to try is cycling the key to on a couple of times before trying to crank her. Your fuel pump if it’s a superduty will run for 30 sec then shut off. Doing this will re prime the fuel system. Other issues could be the hpop reservoir bleeding down which will cause a long crank before starting. Of course you could have other things going on as well like glow plugs or even injectors. It’s best to start with the lower priced possibilities and work toward the more expensive ones. Might save ya some money.
@@bayoudiesel thank broth.. You save my day. I go to put a fuel pressure gauge and I hope see the 55 to 60 psi after this I go to check the reseivor of the hpop and I found not oil on this, this is the problem. Thanks again.
@@D0nie11 if hpop is bleeding back it could be the spring ball check valve in the timing cover behind the alternator and / or the lpop is getting worn. Or of course a possible leak.
I ordered my test port 90 from Amazon. It appears to be unavailable now. They have many fuel test kits with gages that come up in stead of just that adaptor. They can be made if you pull a test port cap and find an adaptor for that thread to 1/4 npt then a regular Schrader valve will fit and that’s what is needed to go to a gage set up.
@@KevinCorapi I’m assuming you are referring to the 90 degree fitting I used to tap into the back of the fuel bowl? That fitting threads into the bowl and transitions to a Schrader valve to attach to a pressure tester. I don’t know the thread type and size off hand but I ordered it off Amazon years ago by searching 7.3 fuel pressure tester or adaptor or something. Let me look in my kit and see if I still have the package. Maybe it has a part number. The package says TamerX.com TamerX diesel products 3830 Hemingway hwy Hemingway SC 29554 843-933-3050 Let me know what ya find out please. I may want to grab some more as well.
I always appreciate your videos. You deserve much more followers with how in depth and straightforward you are with your videos. I’m sure your customers are customers for life!
Thanks my friend. I always appreciate comments. Especially ones that let us know we are on the right track. We’ll keep um coming for ya. Thanks for watchin.
Always nice to watch other people working on their trucks, a person gains a lot of knowledge on a 7.3 that way. Always said my truck will probably out live me, its a 2001 Crew Cab with 535,000+ miles now. I've gradually replacing all the 20+ years of sensors, etc. Tell Christian I have a wiring harness sitting in a box until I get time to put it in there... :)
Will do bud. I like to hear that we are making a difference and not just putting out more b s on the ole inner web. Lol
I’ll keep them coming and appreciate your comments. Keep me posted on the ole gal. I may be buying one back with similar miles that was wrecked so your should have plenty of life left in her. I’ve worked on a few with over 850k and still trucking. Thanks for watchin.
good video. Thought I should add that the plug removed from the fuel bowl is in fact #4 orb (o-ring boss) thread, which is 7/16” -20 thread size, not your typical fitting (except at a hydraulics shop). the adapter elbow is that to typically 1/8 npt, the most common schrader valve size and they can be purchased on amazon "Fuel Pressure Sensor Thread Adapter for 7.3 Ford".
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Definitely
Dirt reasons pretty much sums up my life lol. Thanks for the video showed what I needed to know.
Always good to hear that our videos helped a viewer. We are just like y’all, trying to keep our ole gals on the road. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Nice! You've got great videos and I appreciate the explanations along the way. Keep up the awesome work!👍👍👍
Thanks for the videos!!! Geat content keep up the awesome videos
Thanks bud. Hope you enjoy. Appreciate you giving my channel some of your time.
There could be a drop off under load. Test should be repeated with a long hose and a test drive with a trailer if possible
@@jamesfaison9410 yep. That’s a good idea. Definitely a possibility to see a drop in fuel psi under a load. Appreciate the info and thanks for watchin
Quick question. I have a 97 F350 and am wondering if yours is a mechanical fuel pump or electric for this test. I unfortunately recently ran out of fuel and despite using the bleeder valve I'm now not getting fuel into the filter bowl. I know I have a mechanical fuel pump and need my truck running so I can get back to work.
Lift pump on his truck will be an electric pump on the frame.
If your truck isn’t getting fuel u can pour fuel directly into the fuel bowl to get the truck started and it will then actuate the fuel pump from there on if it won’t self feed. This is a special trick I learned from my pops
Hey I've got a 1988 Ford with 7,3. If you let it sit for 3 days it's hard to start. I think it's losing fuel psi. Can I put a electric fuel pump on and eliminate the manual? If so which electric pump would you recommend. Thanks
I haven’t had the need to replace the manual with an electric on older 7.3’s. But as long as you have a pump that can meet the needs pressure wise for your truck I doubt it would matter electric or manual
I have bad injector knock on cylinder #2 I’ve put 8 new injectors still there so I unplugged all the injectors when cylinder 2 is unplugged the noise goes away so i replaced that injector again it was quiet for about 10 minutes then the knock came back
Hey bud. Saw your comment early this morning. Seems like u may have an electrical issue that isn’t pulsing the #2 injector the same as the rest. They are all getting the same fuel and oil so that kinda rules that out. Sense u replaced it twice and the noise is still there the only system left is electrical. Meaning wiring or idm. You put new uvch and still nothing. I’d inspect the cylinder #2 pin on the 9 pin connector for damage or signs of heat. If that’s good then I’d back up to the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover and give it a hard look over for chafing. You could also ohm out the harnesses like I did in the IDM wire harness pin test video. And finally do u have any codes?
Hit me back if ya have any questions.
No codes
But the noise is driving me crazy
But the noise is driving me crazy
How much pressure with the truck running?
Fuel psi stock 55-60. Blue spring mod or bb will bring that up a bit. Just don’t want to see it drop off while driving.
Hey i have a 7.3L on a F350 im having hell getting it started. it will crank wont start. i replaced the IPR and the Cam Sensor. i unplugged the ICP to bypass that still didnt start. yesterday i drained the fuel bowl using the valve on the side. drained it went back to the ignite turned the key fired up INSTANTLY and died after 5 seconds. i went and got some diesel becuase i was at 1/4th a tank went to start it again FIRED right up. IDLED terrible! for like 5 minutes then the idle was fine i turned it off and started it again firing right up again running smooth. took it for a drive was perfect. came back the next day and the same thing as before cranks but wont start. ANY ideas? only has 131k miles on it
When you say that you got some diesel, how much did you put in? What is the fuel gage showing currently?
I’m having same issue
@@codyenglish8636 give me a rundown on your symptoms and what you are fighting?
Im probably wrong but it could be hpop related. Does the truck have enough oil? Does it build pressure? Does the hpop leak? You can also test the oil from the resubmit test bolt at the top suck some oil out see if it’s bad. It’s probably some other issue but thought I’d try to help anyway
Sounds like water in the fuel.
Good video.. Then the fuel pressure has to down when you turn off the key? Or it has to keep on 55 to 60 psi when you shut off the engine? Thanks
Fuel pressure will bleed down after a while. The fuel regulator spring holds back 55psi and let’s the rest of the pressure circle back to the tank.
@@bayoudieselmy problem is normally start with ether and the rest of the day runs great, but after two or three day no start and I have to use ether again, thank for help me🙏🏻
@@D0nie11 if you are thinking fuel issue such as fuel bleeding back to the tank when sitting for a while then one thing to try is cycling the key to on a couple of times before trying to crank her. Your fuel pump if it’s a superduty will run for 30 sec then shut off. Doing this will re prime the fuel system.
Other issues could be the hpop reservoir bleeding down which will cause a long crank before starting.
Of course you could have other things going on as well like glow plugs or even injectors. It’s best to start with the lower priced possibilities and work toward the more expensive ones. Might save ya some money.
@@bayoudiesel thank broth.. You save my day. I go to put a fuel pressure gauge and I hope see the 55 to 60 psi after this I go to check the reseivor of the hpop and I found not oil on this, this is the problem. Thanks again.
@@D0nie11 if hpop is bleeding back it could be the spring ball check valve in the timing cover behind the alternator and / or the lpop is getting worn. Or of course a possible leak.
70 psi at the pump. So you mean you cant stop your fuel pump with your finger?
Never tried lmao.
Can you post the link for the 90 please
I ordered my test port 90 from Amazon. It appears to be unavailable now. They have many fuel test kits with gages that come up in stead of just that adaptor. They can be made if you pull a test port cap and find an adaptor for that thread to 1/4 npt then a regular Schrader valve will fit and that’s what is needed to go to a gage set up.
Is the shrader valve needed?
What is the fitting called, and what size? Can't find it
@@KevinCorapi I’m assuming you are referring to the 90 degree fitting I used to tap into the back of the fuel bowl?
That fitting threads into the bowl and transitions to a Schrader valve to attach to a pressure tester. I don’t know the thread type and size off hand but I ordered it off Amazon years ago by searching 7.3 fuel pressure tester or adaptor or something. Let me look in my kit and see if I still have the package. Maybe it has a part number.
The package says
TamerX.com
TamerX diesel products
3830 Hemingway hwy
Hemingway SC 29554
843-933-3050
Let me know what ya find out please. I may want to grab some more as well.