well...THAT video was disappointing....you should have recorded replacing the IPR, and then the final fire up...there's something very satisfying about watching a video where the end result is the truck running well again....
Nice! Glad it fixed it! Heres a good tip I've learned in my day that can be helpful. If you get a spare similar connector. Lengthien the wires to where you can touch them on the battery terminals. Ground the ground and tap the positive to horribly simulate pwm. If you have a good electrical circuit you'll see sparks. If it's dead nothing will happen and you'll have a quick ipr diag!
I bought my 7.3l with 30k miles on it back in 2002, and it seemed to start showing a loss of power by the time I got it home, 250 miles away. It was 8 quarts low. Put oil in it, and it soon lost all the oil again. Turned out to be faulty injectors. Luckily, I took it to Ford and they covered all new injectors under the factory warranty. It's never left me stranded or had any real problems until now. Right now, I'm pretty sure I have a bad IPR, and my ICP is leaking a tiny bit of oil, but I'm not losing anything close to what a couple of bad injectors can cause. My IPR is showing about 175psi, and this is the second time the truck has just died and won't restart while driving slow or coming to a stop. Similar to a CPS, but that was recently replaced, and my tach still registers rpms. Thanks for the video.
One of my new favorite channels to watch. I'm wrapping up my 450-500hp 7.3 build, as a matter of fact I'm finishing building my transmission in the morning. One of my new favorite daily UA-camrs, I'm always a fan of the Ford diesel techs that put up videos. Good work! And to answer your question, I like the 7.3 dips tickets over the 6.0 also.
Hey brother I watch all your vids. I'm a mechanic don't do diesels but watching your vids you have givin me great advice or plan of attacks when doing jobs that look a lot harder then they are. Long story short love the videos your a very smart technician and love watching and learning when I get out of work, keep them coming brother!
I also am a tech with tons of experience on many gas vehicles. I bought a 2003 7.3 leery on being an old diesel and it was intimidated but they're such a simple first diesel. After learning how these platforms work i wish id have learned sooner.
my 2000 psd just decided it wont start today. It cranks over great, tach is at 200 or so while cranking over. Guess i will check fuses, and wiring for mice. It was running yesterday, but i parked on the street nose down last night. Today it wont fire up. Never had any issue with it until today. Thanks for the video, its videos like this that that give us a fighting chance, i never knew about the ipr. Guess i will check for fuel bowl fuse too. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
Craziest thing I ever had happen working on a Diesel, it was a early 2000's Ford f350 with the 7.3 PowerStrokeTurbo Diesel. (Just like the truck in THIS video) Truck would crank forever and start up rough when completely cold and run for a little while and no matter what you do whether you let it sit and idle or rev it up to try and build oil pressure so that the injectors keep firing it would always die out ESP once it started to warm up it dies out and will not start back up until it sits and gets completely cool again. I worked on this truck for a week straight and took pictures of everything I did and actually figured out the problem while I was going through my pictures! I changed the engine oil pump that feeds the high pressure oil pump that drives the injection system I changed the high pressure oil pump the IPR solenoid and it still would not stay running. What ended up being the problem, was THERE WAS A CRACK in the timing cover on the inside where the low pressure oil pump sits, the crack was on the timing cover, on the output circuit/feed where the oil gets pumped up and goes into to the reservoir that feeds the HPOP! The LPOP was pumping oil and the oil pressure was bleeding off (THROUGH THE CRACK) and going back into the crankcase on the inside, and not making it up to the high pressure oil pump and once the engine started to warm up the crack would expand and get bigger and the oil pressure would bleed off faster than the low pressure oil pump could pump! Changed the lower timing cover and now she starts EVERY TIME and she runs like a champ! I took over 500 pictures and I just happened to notice this tiny crack in one of the pictures that I took. I was so happy when we finally figured it out and got the vehicle back to the customer!
O NO! I bet this is what is going on with my sons! I noticed the truck was starting to bleed off oil pressure after a few days, that then turned into daily until it stalled in the driveway! Now we got about $2500 in it and still won’t start! New Hpop,Lpop,icp,etc.! Changed everything! Oil pressure kicks right up now while cranking but drops right off when he stops! It’s at a shop and they did every test they know and everything comes back good, they are stumped and letting my son even use their tools to try different stuff so the bill doesn’t go higher! So did you have to pull the engine out?
@@tiredofthetyranny9874 no sir absolutely not! You have to take the fan the fan shroud the radiator out so you have all the space on the front of the engine and then you can get right on the harmonic balancer bolt! :) Now that crank pulley/ harmonic balancer bolt is a HUGE P.I.T.A! I think God HIMSELF torqued them @ the factory ;) haha! What I used to finally get it off was; a big breaker bar (The bigger and thicker the better!) It was a 3/4 drive and I just used a deep socket for the harmonic balancer bolt (I don't remember what size it was) and I braced the breaker bar against the frame of the truck and use the engine starter to crank the engine and it will crack it loose! Now be careful when you do this you are doing this at your own risk, but make sure you get the breaker bar and the socket locked onto the bolt and get it on there nice and straight and then turn the engine by hand until the breaker bar is against the frame hey you have to pay attention to which way the engine spins when it's rotating because you want to brace the breaker bar on the opposite side of the frame so that when you hit the key to engage the starter the engine will try and turn but the breaker bar stop it and the starter turning the engine with the breaker bar holding the bolt against the frame it will break that bolt loose like nothing! ;) Now you only need to hit the starter for just enough time for it to break the bolt loose and then immediately stop and take the bolt out by hand after that. Once you have check on the boat out and slid the harmonic balancer out off of the crankshaft make sure you don't lose the woodruff key, then take the upper timing cover off and then the lower timing cover off. Once you have taken the lower timing cover off flip it around and down where the crankshaft sticks through the timing cover you will see the veins where the low pressure oil pump lines up to and one of them is the suction side of the oil pump and the other is the discharge side if you clean it up really well and look at it with a light if it is doing what the truck I had was doing, you should see a little hairline crack inside one of those veins. We had to replace the lower timing cover we thought about having it welded but it was aluminum and I had no idea if it would be strong enough yada yada yada, because customer was desperate for his truck back at this point so we just replaced it put everything back together and that bad boy fired right up!
Iv got to say the ol 7🌲 most reliable easy to work on love em so much got 3 of them 95 f350 dulley 2wd 5 speed 97 4x4 auto and 99 f350 supercab 4x4 any time of year all 3 will fire up run great
Don’t know, had my 7.3 coming up on 18 years. She’s had her problems of just normal aging and wear and tear. 168,000 miles on her. She got new headlights and signal lens today. Sporting all sex now. Got lots of new parts coming in just to toughen her up. She’s done her months of setting, we are know that’s not good for them. She’s getting taken care of and on the road again soon. Y’all be safe out there.
First thing you always check is oil level. If no visual of an oil leak . Then most of the time injector o rings failure. When a 7.3 falls below 7 quarts it will shut down. Not enough to run HPO system. And if they crank on the engine for a long period of time, you de pleat the HPO in the lines and heads. It will then have reprise itself a crank time of about 60 seconds to build pressure back. You can loosen one of the oil rail plugs on the head to help purge alittle faster. He did not crank long enough to rebuild pressure in the system. The engine needs new injector o rings!!!
That's one of the reasons it's hard to grenade a HEUI like the 7.3. It starves the injectors and the dont run. Not a good idea but a bit of a "catastrophic safety"
Wow, that oil that was in there was pretty dark for just a couple thousand miles... I know it turns dark quick but that looked like molasses (what was there anyway). Really sad to see all that starting fluid.
I used to work with a guy who would just run his 7.3 till it died in a parking lot, then add oil to it so it would start. Wouldn't get the leak fixed, but i never could get him to understand how this thing actually fires. He swears to this day that it won't run low on oil cause "it's a built in safety feature", and not because it needs oil to fire....
It's not a "built in safety feature" it uses crankcase oil to not only lubricate the internals of the engine but also send that oil up to a high pressure oil pump which provided up too 3800 psi (@WOT) to push the guts of the injectors to spray fuel into the cylinder. No oil, no fuel injection. Gotta make 600 psi b4 the vehicle will start. Watch my fuel injector video...
Any time my 7.3 slightly shudders at idle it's down 2 quarts. I keep Rotella with me all the time. Has a slight leak. This takes many miles to happen btw and is relatively rare it gets there anyway.
Crazy stuff you see! Unbelievable. I enjoy these vids a lot and they are very informative. Cool to see the life of a diesel tech. Please keep them coming.
Crazy, I'm not sure why folks don't check there oil, I do it every fill up with fuel and I change my own, as I don't trust anyone else to do so. Hopefully that engine just didn't eat itself up.
I enjoyed listening to you talk to yourself, ( or "us" ), as you were investigating the problem. Had me laughing at your "owner" questions. Oh, as for dip stick , I'm only familiar with the 7.3. I will tell you that it came in handy one day as a 30 caliper cleaning rod. ;-) My 2000 F250 pickup wouldn't start this morning so I'll be checking some fuses and oil level. I'm thinking I checked it a couple weeks ago. Thanks for the info!
With the mileage on the truck, I would bet my red money on the fact that his injector o rings are bad. 7.3 Powerstrokes are direct injected and lose oil that way. 7.3's all have slight leaks as they age, but no usually enough to make that much of a difference. People don't want to tell people what is REALLY happening when a direct injected 7.3 goes through oil either because they don't know, or because it's profitable not to tell them.
Ive been doin this for LONG enough & I beg to differ where you are contracting your information from. Red money or green money....i make green while fixing it right the first time and being true to everyone. Weather its profitable or not
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I wasn't necessarily referring to you. I have found that is a problem with a lot of other channels and "shops" around here. That's what I was referring to.
i have a 01 7.3 207k. bought the truck from a ranch here in texas, since then ive started making changes which include.. new hpop,new fuel bowl,new tank mod, new valve cover gaskets, new upper wiring harness, new ipr and icp exhaust sensor map sensor,new oem rail fuel pump,im seeing on here that when you have a crank no start the next thing to do is test injectors? if orings are bad would fuel mix in the oil ? also i have 70 psi at fuel bowl could there be something elec happening? the fuel relay behind the radio does it run the fuel pump? and if i did the injector test and found orings bad wouldnt it just to be better to replace the injuectors and cups than just repair old injectors?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks for the response. I upgraded to X2 AGM’s one at a time and only had half power, no start. Called dealer and service told me disconnecting both batteries would lockup several modules and sensors but as a last resort I did it anyway and was able to start the truck.
I was gonna say that my dipstick in my 6.7 is made possible because Ford doesn't use speedometer cables anymore and they had to use the inventory for something:)
I have a 96 7.3 - I'm thinking I need a cpm- cranks , won't start- no wts light and my hydra tuner won't turn on - I checked if the chip was loose it was not - Checked all fuses all good - oil good - I looked around the fuel bowl for any issues that would cause a short - I think cpm is accurate but anything else it could be - both batts read 12v also died while driving
Hey man, my truck recently brlke down on me. Have replaced the L-POP and the idm. I replaced the icp sensor and the ipr sensor. The truck did run at first and neber died on me again. As soon as i parked it a d shut it off. It wont start again..... any ideas? Thanks for the video man. Very clear, profesional, and helpful. 👌👍
Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.
I hope you have found the issue, but if not. I had a VW that had a similar issue with it, I never found the issue but my brother who is a mechanic said it sounded like it was possibly a ground issue. The conversation happened well after the car was gone so I was never able to look into it.
I knew the 7.3 needed 500 PSI to start. If I’m not mistaken GSB G0000086 says 500 PSI for 6.0. I’m surprised IDS gives ICP pressure. PC/ED section 6 only says that ICP for a 7.3 is in Volts. I’m wondering if the NGS ever read psi for a ICP.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod good to know thanks. I always appreciate a technician that’s willing to teach. I’ve learned just as much from technicians as I have from Ford.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod hi my name is MARCO. I have a no-start condition on my 7.3 L I replace the camshaft position sensor IPR it just cranks and cranks I'm trying to keep my battery is full my pressure oil pressure gauge up sure if I have enough what else can it be. It's not icp cause when I disconnect it it sounds different cranking
So if you have a friend who has a diesel and they bring it to you with a no start, check the oil! Ah that's funny! Rule if thumb on all my friends vehicles when they bring them to me, is check the fluids, battery & terminals. Then ask them have you had any maintenance done on it right before you brought it to me by anyone who's not a professional? Most of the time is something simple or just routine maintenance. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya PS you've got a really nice channel here. Put some of the videos on specific types in some play lists, it makes it easier to find the type of videos we'd like to watch. Ie. PowerStrokes, 6.O's 7.3's, F-Series Suspension's etc.
My 1996 7.3 psd with 250k miles. Stock. Have a intermittent crank no start problem. My scangauge shows ICP=0 when cranking. IPR 14.8 at key ON. it has no oil on the stock ICP sensor connector. When it doess start it has good ICP and IPR Readings but can have a rough idle with the Engine shaking a bit. the sensors are so expensive and take several weeks to ship to my country so i don´t know if i should order a ICP or IPR... I have a spare CPS sensor but i don´t Think it´s a bad CPS. Shows no CEL or No codes. Passes injector Buzz test.
I really like how you always include the mileage of the vehicle you're working on. Being a "gasser" guy for most of my driving history, I'm always amazed how you're never surprised by some of the high miles on many of the Diesel engines. Can you let your viewers know an average of "number of miles" you've seen on the majority of the Diesel engines you work on? Also, what is the most you've seen? Thanks!
+Gip Giper i usually ALWAYS have something between 110 and 180....mostly always. Got a lot high ones too...200ks for sure. Had 2 put an injector in a 6.0, 06 i think from Arizona.....875k miles. Got a 6.7 rollin around somewheres with 475k, deleted everything. Always in 4 maint!
My 7.3 is doimg a slow cold start and an almost no hot start. New icp and batteries with a decent starter. Wanna diagnose it before throwing parts at it. Thanks
My 7.3 E350 will not start unless left plugged in for an hour or more. Can you help me diagnose? It has new gp's, new gp relay, new uvch's and all tests show gp's are in fact getting power.
So you don't show the fixes? That's unexpected. Really like your presentation and diagnostic process, but would have loved the satisfaction of seeing the motor spark into life.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thats just what I’ve read. I’m in no way a mechanic so i should probably have been more clear on that. Now, what I’ve read in forums and other places is that if you run it out of oil it will keep itself from starting before you do any damage and until there oil in the truck and oil where ever the switch is the truck will not start. Once it does start you have to drive it around for a while to circulate any air out of the system. So what you’re saying is that’s not true?
The injectors need to see 600 psi of high pressure oil to start. If theres no oil, then there is no high pressure oil to be made thus not running the engine. Its not a "safety switch" . Watch my air leak test video then maybe ya can connect the dots better visually
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh no I understand you. And I believe you. From watching a couple of your videos earlier today i feel like you know what you’re talking about. But see you’re a working mechanic and alot of times it’s not easy to be able to talk directly to a technician so you wind up with bone heads that tell you about safty switchs. My problem isn’t an oil issue at all though. I keep oil in it and i change it regularly. That’s how i knew 3 quarts wouldn’t show on the stick. I couldn’t remember how many it takes but i knew it’d be more than 4. My truck just started sputtering and shaking and had no power out of the blue and i coasted to a parking lot and it started twice but i had to hold the pedal to the floor for it to run and it would gradually lower idle until it would quit running. Now it wont start at all. So im lost on what to do or where to start. Im still gonna watch you pressure test video just to gain any information i can. Learn everything you can when you can right. I learned a valuable lesson already about forums and safty switches. Lol. I hate to be the guy asking for free help so I won’t. I’ll pay you to help me figure this deal out with my truck. It’s our only vehicle and we live 100 miles from any real stores or any of the other things you need to live. There a couple of gas stations and a grocery store in town but thats 25 miles from my house. I’m in a bind indeed!
I could use some help on my 2000 7.3. It is cranking but no start. No smoke, also the tach does not move while cranking. It’s got compression. It got harder and harder to start then suddenly it quit starting
There’s a green 30 amp fuse on the interior fuse panel that when the fuel bowl heater shorts out blows and won’t fire the injectors... Worth a quick check Normally associated with a no wait to start light.
how can I prevent head gasket blown on 6.0l ps if I ever had one? No tuner, and do proper maintenace??? But i knewcoolant very sensitive to head gasket?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod hmmmm, okay is there anyhting to prevent that like maintenace yearly and keep eyes on coolant bottle plus stay stock all the time?
I have a 99 f250 7.3 that won’t start. The code is B1352 ignition signal. I don’t have the ability to tow it to a shop. I just spent 2350 to build the 4r100 from scratch. Now it won’t start. No stater noise nothing.
Whoever put the oil in probably thought it was like any other gas pickup. After five, he added 6th, still a no show on the dipstick. Okay, add another quart, that'll do it! Still a no show. Okay, better stop at 7...don't want to overfill it! :))
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod 1st Im not a mechanic just a fan. I was just wondering if that would've built pressure sooner for the injectors. the only thing I think I know about the top reservoir is that that is the supply is used for the injection system. So would that have helped in any way?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I don’t miss the days of when I had to pay someone to change my oil. As soon as I had a garage all me knowing I’m doing it right. Love your 7.3 vids man. I even got a harness to make like yours on the glow plug test video to test myself. Great idea! 👍🏻
Need help bad changed all 8 injectors rebuild ones new valve cover gasket and harness but truck still has problem run it 15 miles or so and it stalls when rpms drop to turn or stop but cranks right back up but have to keep rpms up to 15 hundred and it smokes out tail pipe what could it be had a ICP code but replaced it with a new one from Ford any help would be appreciated thank you
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no we have checked a lot of things but not that it's coming a bad storm right now we will check it out tomorrow and I'll let you know thanks for the reply i really like your videos keep up the good work
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod it's been about a month ago and I finally got the fuel pressure checked and with key on shows about 36 psi running at idle around 38 psi that's with the blue spring update and with 2500 hundred rpms dropped to 35 and came back up slowly to 38 psi would it be possibly the fuel pump thank you
well...THAT video was disappointing....you should have recorded replacing the IPR, and then the final fire up...there's something very satisfying about watching a video where the end result is the truck running well again....
That why these powerstrokes use 15 QTS of earl in them because its a high pressure oil system to operate the injectors ! Great video man....
Yes sir!
Nice! Glad it fixed it! Heres a good tip I've learned in my day that can be helpful. If you get a spare similar connector. Lengthien the wires to where you can touch them on the battery terminals. Ground the ground and tap the positive to horribly simulate pwm. If you have a good electrical circuit you'll see sparks. If it's dead nothing will happen and you'll have a quick ipr diag!
I wish mine was that easy! Changed everything still no start!
I bought my 7.3l with 30k miles on it back in 2002, and it seemed to start showing a loss of power by the time I got it home, 250 miles away. It was 8 quarts low. Put oil in it, and it soon lost all the oil again. Turned out to be faulty injectors. Luckily, I took it to Ford and they covered all new injectors under the factory warranty. It's never left me stranded or had any real problems until now. Right now, I'm pretty sure I have a bad IPR, and my ICP is leaking a tiny bit of oil, but I'm not losing anything close to what a couple of bad injectors can cause. My IPR is showing about 175psi, and this is the second time the truck has just died and won't restart while driving slow or coming to a stop. Similar to a CPS, but that was recently replaced, and my tach still registers rpms. Thanks for the video.
that thing has a skip in it too. you are the mechanic but I think maybe do a compression test to make sure the starting fluid didn't kill a piston
One of my new favorite channels to watch. I'm wrapping up my 450-500hp 7.3 build, as a matter of fact I'm finishing building my transmission in the morning. One of my new favorite daily UA-camrs, I'm always a fan of the Ford diesel techs that put up videos. Good work! And to answer your question, I like the 7.3 dips tickets over the 6.0 also.
Combined Gaming World thank u thank u. share my vid!! glad u like
GR8 that u were videoing that check... customer can't deny it now...
Hey brother I watch all your vids. I'm a mechanic don't do diesels but watching your vids you have givin me great advice or plan of attacks when doing jobs that look a lot harder then they are. Long story short love the videos your a very smart technician and love watching and learning when I get out of work, keep them coming brother!
+Dave P DUDE thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also am a tech with tons of experience on many gas vehicles. I bought a 2003 7.3 leery on being an old diesel and it was intimidated but they're such a simple first diesel. After learning how these platforms work i wish id have learned sooner.
my 2000 psd just decided it wont start today. It cranks over great, tach is at 200 or so while cranking over. Guess i will check fuses, and wiring for mice. It was running yesterday, but i parked on the street nose down last night. Today it wont fire up. Never had any issue with it until today. Thanks for the video, its videos like this that that give us a fighting chance, i never knew about the ipr. Guess i will check for fuel bowl fuse too. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
No problem, my pleasure to create. Reach out to me if you need trouble shooting advice..
Craziest thing I ever had happen working on a Diesel, it was a early 2000's Ford f350 with the 7.3 PowerStrokeTurbo Diesel. (Just like the truck in THIS video) Truck would crank forever and start up rough when completely cold and run for a little while and no matter what you do whether you let it sit and idle or rev it up to try and build oil pressure so that the injectors keep firing it would always die out ESP once it started to warm up it dies out and will not start back up until it sits and gets completely cool again. I worked on this truck for a week straight and took pictures of everything I did and actually figured out the problem while I was going through my pictures! I changed the engine oil pump that feeds the high pressure oil pump that drives the injection system I changed the high pressure oil pump the IPR solenoid and it still would not stay running. What ended up being the problem, was THERE WAS A CRACK in the timing cover on the inside where the low pressure oil pump sits, the crack was on the timing cover, on the output circuit/feed where the oil gets pumped up and goes into to the reservoir that feeds the HPOP! The LPOP was pumping oil and the oil pressure was bleeding off (THROUGH THE CRACK) and going back into the crankcase on the inside, and not making it up to the high pressure oil pump and once the engine started to warm up the crack would expand and get bigger and the oil pressure would bleed off faster than the low pressure oil pump could pump! Changed the lower timing cover and now she starts EVERY TIME and she runs like a champ! I took over 500 pictures and I just happened to notice this tiny crack in one of the pictures that I took. I was so happy when we finally figured it out and got the vehicle back to the customer!
Omg........😱😱😱😱😱
O NO! I bet this is what is going on with my sons! I noticed the truck was starting to bleed off oil pressure after a few days, that then turned into daily until it stalled in the driveway! Now we got about $2500 in it and still won’t start! New Hpop,Lpop,icp,etc.! Changed everything! Oil pressure kicks right up now while cranking but drops right off when he stops! It’s at a shop and they did every test they know and everything comes back good, they are stumped and letting my son even use their tools to try different stuff so the bill doesn’t go higher! So did you have to pull the engine out?
No
@@tiredofthetyranny9874 no sir absolutely not! You have to take the fan the fan shroud the radiator out so you have all the space on the front of the engine and then you can get right on the harmonic balancer bolt! :) Now that crank pulley/ harmonic balancer bolt is a HUGE P.I.T.A! I think God HIMSELF torqued them @ the factory ;) haha!
What I used to finally get it off was;
a big breaker bar (The bigger and thicker the better!) It was a 3/4 drive and I just used a deep socket for the harmonic balancer bolt (I don't remember what size it was) and I braced the breaker bar against the frame of the truck and use the engine starter to crank the engine and it will crack it loose! Now be careful when you do this you are doing this at your own risk, but make sure you get the breaker bar and the socket locked onto the bolt and get it on there nice and straight and then turn the engine by hand until the breaker bar is against the frame hey you have to pay attention to which way the engine spins when it's rotating because you want to brace the breaker bar on the opposite side of the frame so that when you hit the key to engage the starter the engine will try and turn but the breaker bar stop it and the starter turning the engine with the breaker bar holding the bolt against the frame it will break that bolt loose like nothing! ;) Now you only need to hit the starter for just enough time for it to break the bolt loose and then immediately stop and take the bolt out by hand after that. Once you have check on the boat out and slid the harmonic balancer out off of the crankshaft make sure you don't lose the woodruff key, then take the upper timing cover off and then the lower timing cover off. Once you have taken the lower timing cover off flip it around and down where the crankshaft sticks through the timing cover you will see the veins where the low pressure oil pump lines up to and one of them is the suction side of the oil pump and the other is the discharge side if you clean it up really well and look at it with a light if it is doing what the truck I had was doing, you should see a little hairline crack inside one of those veins. We had to replace the lower timing cover we thought about having it welded but it was aluminum and I had no idea if it would be strong enough yada yada yada, because customer was desperate for his truck back at this point so we just replaced it put everything back together and that bad boy fired right up!
I Got the same truck 4+4 and love the 7.3 old motor but reliable as hell.I got all over half million km still going strong.keep up the good work.
+bud morse thanks!!!!!
Iv got to say the ol 7🌲 most reliable easy to work on love em so much got 3 of them 95 f350 dulley 2wd 5 speed 97 4x4 auto and 99 f350 supercab 4x4 any time of year all 3 will fire up run great
Don’t know, had my 7.3 coming up on 18 years. She’s had her problems of just normal aging and wear and tear. 168,000 miles on her. She got new headlights and signal lens today. Sporting all sex now. Got lots of new parts coming in just to toughen her up. She’s done her months of setting, we are know that’s not good for them. She’s getting taken care of and on the road again soon.
Y’all be safe out there.
Gotta love the BIG 15QT written in yellow in front of the radiator 😂
First thing you always check is oil level. If no visual of an oil leak . Then most of the time injector o rings failure. When a 7.3 falls below 7 quarts it will shut down. Not enough to run HPO system. And if they crank on the engine for a long period of time, you de pleat the HPO in the lines and heads. It will then have reprise itself a crank time of about 60 seconds to build pressure back. You can loosen one of the oil rail plugs on the head to help purge alittle faster. He did not crank long enough to rebuild pressure in the system. The engine needs new injector o rings!!!
Wow built in self preservation feature 👍
The most important thing in ANY engine is to have oil, then coolant then gasoline. If you don't have the first two, having gasoline doesn't matter.
That's one of the reasons it's hard to grenade a HEUI like the 7.3. It starves the injectors and the dont run. Not a good idea but a bit of a "catastrophic safety"
it holds 15 quarts... glad you're a PRO...
AND, YOU USED THE WRONG VISCOSITY OIL..
What a shame...one of the few ways 7.3's die young. Owner neglect.
If people took care of their cars like they should, there would only be half as many mechanics!!!!
Wow, that oil that was in there was pretty dark for just a couple thousand miles... I know it turns dark quick but that looked like molasses (what was there anyway). Really sad to see all that starting fluid.
ran my truck out of fuel for the first time that was an adventure. People helping me kept asking if it had oil. it had oil just no fuel hahaha
I used to work with a guy who would just run his 7.3 till it died in a parking lot, then add oil to it so it would start. Wouldn't get the leak fixed, but i never could get him to understand how this thing actually fires. He swears to this day that it won't run low on oil cause "it's a built in safety feature", and not because it needs oil to fire....
It's not a "built in safety feature" it uses crankcase oil to not only lubricate the internals of the engine but also send that oil up to a high pressure oil pump which provided up too 3800 psi (@WOT) to push the guts of the injectors to spray fuel into the cylinder. No oil, no fuel injection. Gotta make 600 psi b4 the vehicle will start. Watch my fuel injector video...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh i know, i just could never get him to understand that lol
Love the 7.3 stick...
Likely oil dipstick input plug at the oil pan leaking. Or just straight neglect of a psd puckup
Any time my 7.3 slightly shudders at idle it's down 2 quarts. I keep Rotella with me all the time. Has a slight leak. This takes many miles to happen btw and is relatively rare it gets there anyway.
Ahh gotcha
Put oil in the hpop reservoir
thanks man, very helpful. Im having the same problem
I'm impressed with your knowledge and hands-on know how of your work. You're an interesting man.
+auaiao9 impressively interesting
I can't believe the donkey didn't even check the oil level before the truck went in. That's embarrassing.
Helped him narrow it down!
Did it end up being the IPR? I have the exact symptoms but I know my oil is at the right level
Yes it was!!
Crazy stuff you see! Unbelievable. I enjoy these vids a lot and they are very informative. Cool to see the life of a diesel tech. Please keep them coming.
+Austen thanks man so much, stay tuned
Crazy, I'm not sure why folks don't check there oil, I do it every fill up with fuel and I change my own, as I don't trust anyone else to do so. Hopefully that engine just didn't eat itself up.
How on earth do you let a vehicle run out of engine oil and not realize it? this is mind blowing
Especially a 7.3... the oil is what fires the injectors.
Or thru the injectors ..
@@youknow9328 fires them, goes through them, Chinese, Japanese, dirty knees look at these. It's all the same, baby.
Notice someone wrote 15qt on the front cover there to like remind them it takes a bit more than 5. 😉
Hahaha
I enjoyed listening to you talk to yourself, ( or "us" ), as you were investigating the problem. Had me laughing at your "owner" questions.
Oh, as for dip stick , I'm only familiar with the 7.3. I will tell you that it came in handy one day as a 30 caliper cleaning rod. ;-)
My 2000 F250 pickup wouldn't start this morning so I'll be checking some fuses and oil level. I'm thinking I checked it a couple weeks ago. Thanks for the info!
You need 500psi for it to start.
Some people need their trucks taken away. That thing is using or loosing a lot of oil somewhere though.
+Corey Love oil leak, over due on oil change by 3k mi.
With the mileage on the truck, I would bet my red money on the fact that his injector o rings are bad. 7.3 Powerstrokes are direct injected and lose oil that way. 7.3's all have slight leaks as they age, but no usually enough to make that much of a difference. People don't want to tell people what is REALLY happening when a direct injected 7.3 goes through oil either because they don't know, or because it's profitable not to tell them.
Ive been doin this for LONG enough & I beg to differ where you are contracting your information from. Red money or green money....i make green while fixing it right the first time and being true to everyone. Weather its profitable or not
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I wasn't necessarily referring to you. I have found that is a problem with a lot of other channels and "shops" around here. That's what I was referring to.
On the top cowl at the front it shows 15Qts in yellow paint!
Ok
Where did you get the new ipr valve or who did you order it from and how much did it cost. Thanks
i have a 01 7.3 207k. bought the truck from a ranch here in texas, since then ive started making changes which include.. new hpop,new fuel bowl,new tank mod, new valve cover gaskets, new upper wiring harness, new ipr and icp exhaust sensor map sensor,new oem rail fuel pump,im seeing on here that when you have a crank no start the next thing to do is test injectors? if orings are bad would fuel mix in the oil ? also i have 70 psi at fuel bowl could there be something elec happening? the fuel relay behind the radio does it run the fuel pump? and if i did the injector test and found orings bad wouldnt it just to be better to replace the injuectors and cups than just repair old injectors?
Sounds like a compression skip when you crank it too
They kill a piston with ether maybe
Have you done a video on what modules, etc are reset, need to be reset, etc. when a 2017+ looses power (both batteries disconnected)?
None
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks for the response. I upgraded to X2 AGM’s one at a time and only had half power, no start. Called dealer and service told me disconnecting both batteries would lockup several modules and sensors but as a last resort I did it anyway and was able to start the truck.
👌
I was gonna say that my dipstick in my 6.7 is made possible because Ford doesn't use speedometer cables anymore and they had to use the inventory for something:)
+Dale Park lmaooooooooo
I have a 96 7.3 - I'm thinking I need a cpm- cranks , won't start- no wts light and my hydra tuner won't turn on - I checked if the chip was loose it was not - Checked all fuses all good - oil good - I looked around the fuel bowl for any issues that would cause a short - I think cpm is accurate but anything else it could be - both batts read 12v also died while driving
The fuel heater element under ur fuel filter has mostly likely came loose and has shorted out against your fuel bowl. Better recheck them fuses brah
And they even had the oil capacity written on the cowl under the hood hahahahaha
Hey man, my truck recently brlke down on me. Have replaced the L-POP and the idm. I replaced the icp sensor and the ipr sensor. The truck did run at first and neber died on me again. As soon as i parked it a d shut it off. It wont start again..... any ideas? Thanks for the video man. Very clear, profesional, and helpful. 👌👍
You need 2 contact me, private message me n we can talk
Mine did the same. I can't figure it out
7.3 Dipstick is better
What is it with people not checking oil? Even if they haven't changed the oil it's better than no oil at all
people like that = job security for us...
Hell yea bro another classic video 😎.
Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.
I hope you have found the issue, but if not. I had a VW that had a similar issue with it, I never found the issue but my brother who is a mechanic said it sounded like it was possibly a ground issue. The conversation happened well after the car was gone so I was never able to look into it.
I would have unplugged the ICP sensor first to rule out a bad sensor before getting more dirty replacing the IPR valve.
Icp wasn't the problem....
I knew the 7.3 needed 500 PSI to start. If I’m not mistaken GSB G0000086 says 500 PSI for 6.0. I’m surprised IDS gives ICP pressure. PC/ED section 6 only says that ICP for a 7.3 is in Volts. I’m wondering if the NGS ever read psi for a ICP.
Thanks for the Vid, hotline just learned something from you. I had no idea IDS could read ICP pressure. Can the IDS read icp pressure on a 97 96 obs?
Yes it did. I still use it 4 those realics
As long as its EEC-V IDS will be able to read data. Very primitive but will still read...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod good to know thanks. I always appreciate a technician that’s willing to teach. I’ve learned just as much from technicians as I have from Ford.
Awesome🙌🙌
Great video bro 👌🏾
By the way very very awesome video
+Brian Skinner thanks skinner!!!!!!!
Not a problem. Did you find out what was wrong
Love those seven 3 those engines are getting hard to find at least here in Florida where I live
Yepp bet they are lol
Everything in the 7.3 is better then the 6.0.....
Yea if dont know the ins and out of her. Much rather would have a 6.0 than a 7.3. Wld rather HAVE A 6.7 THEN THOSE TWO TURDS!!!!!
Sounds like he has leaky orings on one or more of the fuel injectors too. Uses oil but doesn't leak it.
Why are you using 10w30 diesel run on 15w40 specially 7.3 and 6.0
does it really matter what oil you put in during diag when the customer is running it 8 qts low? lol
Alot of people run 10w30 in colder climates for better cold weather starts .
Sorry about venting. It just urks me when there's lack of maintenance
Thank god these shut down when oil is low
Yepp
You can't kill a 7.3 if you tried. Hopefully it isn't the pump.
definitely wanna see the oil cooler for the 7.3
+LukeTehGamer1 is that a request or a demand!?!?!? LOLOL LETS SEE HOW MANY REQUESTS I GET - ILL DO ONE. COME GUYS LET ME KNOW!!!!!!!!!
DOOOO ITTTTT! lol ipr valve fix it? or do you think its a bad high pressure pump?
+LukeTehGamer1 OK THATS 1, 1600 TO GO!!!!! My test IPR fixed it. The engine fired right up. I got the new 1 from parts be4 i left. Thanks 4 watchin
1600 , damn
+LukeTehGamer1 imagine if i had 20,000........jst 1 day maybe
Did the IPR VALVE CHANGE WORK TO START IT?
Yes
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod hi my name is MARCO. I have a no-start condition on my 7.3 L I replace the camshaft position sensor IPR it just cranks and cranks I'm trying to keep my battery is full my pressure oil pressure gauge up sure if I have enough what else can it be. It's not icp cause when I disconnect it it sounds different cranking
U need 2 put a scan tool on it, to monitor your sensor data
So if you have a friend who has a diesel and they bring it to you with a no start, check the oil! Ah that's funny! Rule if thumb on all my friends vehicles when they bring them to me, is check the fluids, battery & terminals. Then ask them have you had any maintenance done on it right before you brought it to me by anyone who's not a professional? Most of the time is something simple or just routine maintenance. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
PS you've got a really nice channel here. Put some of the videos on specific types in some play lists, it makes it easier to find the type of videos we'd like to watch. Ie. PowerStrokes, 6.O's 7.3's, F-Series Suspension's etc.
Thanks so much for the positive A+ feed back. Much appreciated!!
Great video! 7 qts of oil. Don't tell them because they probably think they can go another 10k miles.
+Dale Park thanks, no shit right!
7.3 for sure on the dip stick.
I find when there is no oil on the dip stick of 7.3, it take at least 5 qt of oil to get the dip stick. The high pressure could also be full air.
I'd put at least 10 in, minus what the filter has
I'm sure this guy who owns the truck will say " ill never buy a ford again"
Joshua Mckibben why?
reweydewy because it won’t start
What typically goes wrong with this IPR? Was the solenoid part bad or the valve itself, the part that screws in HPOP?
My 1996 7.3 psd with 250k miles. Stock. Have a intermittent crank no start problem. My scangauge shows ICP=0 when cranking. IPR 14.8 at key ON. it has no oil on the stock ICP sensor connector. When it doess start it has good ICP and IPR Readings but can have a rough idle with the Engine shaking a bit. the sensors are so expensive and take several weeks to ship to my country so i don´t know if i should order a ICP or IPR... I have a spare CPS sensor but i don´t Think it´s a bad CPS. Shows no CEL or No codes. Passes injector Buzz test.
Probably an IPR but be4 u buy check the oil reservoir and be sure it is full. If not IPR is not ur problemo...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks I'll check the reservoir
I really like how you always include the mileage of the vehicle you're working on. Being a "gasser" guy for most of my driving history, I'm always amazed how you're never surprised by some of the high miles on many of the Diesel engines. Can you let your viewers know an average of "number of miles" you've seen on the majority of the Diesel engines you work on? Also, what is the most you've seen? Thanks!
+Gip Giper i usually ALWAYS have something between 110 and 180....mostly always. Got a lot high ones too...200ks for sure. Had 2 put an injector in a 6.0, 06 i think from Arizona.....875k miles. Got a 6.7 rollin around somewheres with 475k, deleted everything. Always in 4 maint!
+Gip Giper thanks thanks too!!!
My 7.3 is doimg a slow cold start and an almost no hot start. New icp and batteries with a decent starter. Wanna diagnose it before throwing parts at it. Thanks
Gimmie ur email mista
I had to laugh, how can somebody run their truck that low on oil, 7.3s are not known to be oil eaters.
Graveltrucking O.k.
Actually ford says it’s normal to burn up to a quart of oil per 1000 miles
SOME KID AT WALMART PUT 5 QUARTS IN IT
In my case I had injector oring go bad and it was blowing oil back up the fuel rail into the filter. 25 miles and a gallon would disappear
Wow!
My 7.3 E350 will not start unless left plugged in for an hour or more. Can you help me diagnose? It has new gp's, new gp relay, new uvch's and all tests show gp's are in fact getting power.
Powerstroketechtalkwarod@gmail.com sry going to have to pay, to continue...
7.3 is the best engine
bad ipr wiring problems change wire plug ipr repaire kit harness plug replacement (ford or inter. makes no diff Let them rob you and there you go
So you don't show the fixes? That's unexpected. Really like your presentation and diagnostic process, but would have loved the satisfaction of seeing the motor spark into life.
Maybe you can get your thrillz from another one of our shows. 🙋♂️🙋♂️ What you see is what we had time alotted for
I know this is old but I have a question about the 7.3. It starts and runs rough then dies you can start it again and it runs fine…sticky ipr?
Probably not...
I have a clip from for scan if you can look at it.
It has a safty switch that shuts off if its out of oil. I bet it takes 4 or more to read on the stick.
..........safety switch.....im thinkin no
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thats just what I’ve read. I’m in no way a mechanic so i should probably have been more clear on that. Now, what I’ve read in forums and other places is that if you run it out of oil it will keep itself from starting before you do any damage and until there oil in the truck and oil where ever the switch is the truck will not start. Once it does start you have to drive it around for a while to circulate any air out of the system. So what you’re saying is that’s not true?
The injectors need to see 600 psi of high pressure oil to start. If theres no oil, then there is no high pressure oil to be made thus not running the engine. Its not a "safety switch" . Watch my air leak test video then maybe ya can connect the dots better visually
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh no I understand you. And I believe you. From watching a couple of your videos earlier today i feel like you know what you’re talking about. But see you’re a working mechanic and alot of times it’s not easy to be able to talk directly to a technician so you wind up with bone heads that tell you about safty switchs. My problem isn’t an oil issue at all though. I keep oil in it and i change it regularly. That’s how i knew 3 quarts wouldn’t show on the stick. I couldn’t remember how many it takes but i knew it’d be more than 4. My truck just started sputtering and shaking and had no power out of the blue and i coasted to a parking lot and it started twice but i had to hold the pedal to the floor for it to run and it would gradually lower idle until it would quit running. Now it wont start at all. So im lost on what to do or where to start. Im still gonna watch you pressure test video just to gain any information i can. Learn everything you can when you can right. I learned a valuable lesson already about forums and safty switches. Lol. I hate to be the guy asking for free help so I won’t. I’ll pay you to help me figure this deal out with my truck. It’s our only vehicle and we live 100 miles from any real stores or any of the other things you need to live. There a couple of gas stations and a grocery store in town but thats 25 miles from my house. I’m in a bind indeed!
U can email me.
Man that’s like someone drained the oil out of it
I could use some help on my 2000 7.3. It is cranking but no start. No smoke, also the tach does not move while cranking. It’s got compression. It got harder and harder to start then suddenly it quit starting
Hmmm. Only way to help is email...
There’s a green 30 amp fuse on the interior fuse panel that when the fuel bowl heater shorts out blows and won’t fire the injectors...
Worth a quick check
Normally associated with a no wait to start light.
@@billygildark4565o onin I8nno
So was it the IPR valve
Very informative thank u
how can I prevent head gasket blown on 6.0l ps if I ever had one? No tuner, and do proper maintenace??? But i knewcoolant very sensitive to head gasket?
The head bolts are what stretches and cause coolant to blow out of the bottle
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod hmmmm, okay is there anyhting to prevent that like maintenace yearly and keep eyes on coolant bottle plus stay stock all the time?
I have a 99 f250 7.3 that won’t start. The code is B1352 ignition signal. I don’t have the ability to tow it to a shop. I just spent 2350 to build the 4r100 from scratch. Now it won’t start. No stater noise nothing.
Sounds like you need to check the ignition feed power and see if its goin fron the ign switch to the starter
Whoever put the oil in probably thought it was like any other gas pickup. After five, he added 6th, still a no show on the dipstick. Okay, add another quart, that'll do it! Still a no show. Okay, better stop at 7...don't want to overfill it! :))
+Inspironator hahahahah lmaooooo
yea its probably happened before because they had to write 15qt in the engine bay so that the jiffy lube guy doesn't kill the motor
good information,
Thanks bud
What about adding oil to the top reservoir?
What about it
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
1st Im not a mechanic just a fan.
I was just wondering if that would've built pressure sooner for the injectors. the only thing I think I know about the top reservoir is that that is the supply is used for the injection system. So would that have helped in any way?
What scan tool do you recommend on these?
Xtool, launch, think diag, forscan
I have the same problem same sound and everything but my oil level hasn't changed at all. Was leaning towards cam sensor but I'm not sure exactly
So it was the oil change places fault? Customer oughta be having a conversation with them and hand them the bill.
Customers trucks, called pre trip...check ur oil
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I don’t miss the days of when I had to pay someone to change my oil. As soon as I had a garage all me knowing I’m doing it right. Love your 7.3 vids man. I even got a harness to make like yours on the glow plug test video to test myself. Great idea! 👍🏻
Dude thats awesome. I made that video so long ago. Oldie, but a goodie
Nice work i enjoyed the video
Thanks so much!!
Sounds like a cracked ring also ,that crank sounds weak and unbalanced compression
Need help bad changed all 8 injectors rebuild ones new valve cover gasket and harness but truck still has problem run it 15 miles or so and it stalls when rpms drop to turn or stop but cranks right back up but have to keep rpms up to 15 hundred and it smokes out tail pipe what could it be had a ICP code but replaced it with a new one from Ford any help would be appreciated thank you
Any help would be appreciated thank you
Hey bud thanks for watchin. Have you check fuel pressure when all this occurs?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no we have checked a lot of things but not that it's coming a bad storm right now we will check it out tomorrow and I'll let you know thanks for the reply i really like your videos keep up the good work
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod it's been about a month ago and I finally got the fuel pressure checked and with key on shows about 36 psi running at idle around 38 psi that's with the blue spring update and with 2500 hundred rpms dropped to 35 and came back up slowly to 38 psi would it be possibly the fuel pump thank you
Yes, tooo low.....
How much Costs A diagnostic For a 7.3
My truck has a problem, the HPOP reservoir leaks everything through the HPOP, i was told it could be the IPR valve.
Could be the pump itself ?
IPR no, that just regulates what comes out of the pump
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks for your reply, i will look at rebuilding or getting a new pump
No oil and running green automotive antifreeze that lacks sca!!
haven't found any grease ftg 's on my f350 2020 yet how can I find out where they are?
Two front axle shafts. Watch my video from tuesday!!
ok ,I will try and find video. Thank you