I WILL PROVE IT! Overpriced Crap Oil! Amsoil Vs Regular Engine Oil
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- Опубліковано 16 бер 2024
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Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!! - Наука та технологія
Retired GM tech. I use Penzoil motor oil. At the refineries' they all fill up at the same tap. The difference is the additives. I do not have a diesel engine. I have asked the question many times, what one thing did the manufactures do to extend the life of engines? When I started in GM Dealerships {1979} we overhauled engines at 50k. The old carburetor dumped raw fuel down into engines. This rich fuel mixture washed cylinder walls and caused engine oil breakdown and engine wear. As everything switched to fuel injection engine life went up and wear went down. The life of motor oil also went up. When I am asked about oil recommendations, my answer is the best oil is oil that is changed when it is needed. I would stay away from very cheap oil, medium grade is fine. Engine that are subject to start and stop short trip city driving needs to be changed more often. On the other hand, when highway driving is involved, the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, {low engine wear conditions} condensation is burnt off, lubrication is working good, longer oil life is the result. Driving habits are important. Keep a record book in glove box, this is important. Forgetting to change engine oil for 20k to 35k will shorten engine life greatly. There used to be a commercial on TV, pay me now or pay me more later. Preventive Maintenace is worth the time and money it costs. My recommendations Ray.
Also keep in mind engines built today are more refined, better materials, computer controlled machining, and majority are built by machines and have much tighter tolerances. Oils have vastly improved over the last 2 decades as well. Today it takes an extreme use case to need an overhaul at 50K. Engines today easily get 200K or more before needing work. I believe the days of the Vega engine are LONG GONE!
@@acdii😂
Supertech is good oil and I'm running it in my Subaru I got last year. The reason why it is cheaper is because they don't market it. It's just there on the shelf. Supertech filters are good too from what I've seen as they have metal end caps and a nylon inner cage. But I cant get them so I use a Mobil 1 filter which is a step up anyways. (Metal inner cage.)
Stay away from Fram!
@@rustirab3465Ive been running super tech in my Subaru for the last 20k miles. 180k on it and still runs great. I have a fram oil filter in it but I don’t get the one that’s missing a bypass valve. I’ve been using fram oil filters in all 3 of my cars and have yet to have an issue with any of them
I use Scheafer Oil in my F350 7.3 Gas Ams Oil is great to have in a shop !!!! Please do not change!!!! Those that mind don't matter and those that matter don't mind.
My family has been using Amsoil for 40 years. It's really good stuff. The only ones complaining about it are the ones who don't use it. They routinely test their products against other makers. It's top tier. I always use the 25000 mile in our Jeep Renegade. At almost 100k now, the engine is clean and I change it once a year averaging 17500 miles a year since we bought it four years. Last year we drove 23000 on it. Also, the bypass filter is awesome. You won't be disappointed.
It's very good stuff but in reality there's little to no benefit over something like Mobil 1 EP which is less-expensive but still a true Group IV synthetic. Can get it at any auto parts store or retailers like Walmart too which you can't say for Amsoil.
@@deyeatdapoopoo7582I got tired of searching every wal mart and auto parts store for my oil. Seemed to be always out of stock. Maybe just my luck. Started ordering from Amsoil and hasn’t let me down yet. Order on a Monday and is at my door Wednesday And the preferred customer program keeps the price down. 👍🏼
You should be using their flush prior to each oil change, if your running max interval changes
@@deyeatdapoopoo7582
Mobil 1 EP is a group 3 oil, it was a group 4 oil back before the law suit.
@@deyeatdapoopoo7582 - Amsoil is a ripoff, I've used Mobil 1 with great results for years.
You sell what you want, it's your business. F these internet trolls.
Your stupidity is showing!!!!
Yep. F that discount guy. I learned early on you get what you pay for but do your research and don't overpay.
The best recommendation is to get people to change their oil earlier than what the manufacturer recommends. At least every 5k miles and not the 10k that some manufacturers recommended.
I agree, unless you are sending out samples for testing, then go based on the test results.
My 1981 V6 Camaro said to change the oil at 7500 miles, and that was with regular crap oil!
I run 4-6,000 miles between annual oil changes on my Focus. (I don't drive a lot)
I don't pay a lot of attention to brand of oil, just the recommended viscosity numbers and a upper mid-range filter.
My big "trick" is to do the Slick 50 treatment every 15-20,000 miles (yeah, they say 12,000 miles...).
Modern oil, especially FULL, TRUE, synthetics are much better than oils of yesteryear. I use a true, full synthetic yearly or 10K miles, whichever comes first.
i get about 3500 miles on an oil change in my 1991 first gen Explorer
Fordboss talks alot about different oils. Seemed to like the high level Penzoil and the Valvoline. The additive packages are all pretty similar with some slightly better than others. Variances could be more impact on different engines. Just use high quality stuff and change it more frequent. I think the 10k and 20k changes are ruining engines. Just my 2 cents, retired mechanical engineer.
That 10k oil change is so the motor doesn't last long after warranty.
Then you have to buy another motor or in many cases the labor to change the motor out(plus motor) is more expensive than just buying another car in many cases because the car is effectively totalled.
I agree the 10 or 20000 mile oil change is dangerous
10-20k is way too high of an interval to me.
I did 300k miles at 10k intervals. Got nothing to do with it. The only problem with the higher intervals is people think they can let it go longer than they should. So, they change it at like 12k-15k. Oil breaks down when it breaks down, and that is when engine gets damaged. If the oil lasts longer, then you don't need to change it is a often.
@@williameldridge9382 The issue with a 10-20k oil change interval, is that most modern engines have consumptions as high as a quart every 5k. Not every model and not every individual engine will have high consumption but I've seen very, VERY few that aren't down at the very least a quart at the 10-15k mark.
From what I have seen and read, Amsoil is top shelf stuff and works, keep at it Ray.
Max duty cuts oil usage by 76 percent
Change your oil and filters every 5k miles stop the BS.
@@kevinoneill41 yep any quality synthetic oil changed at 5-6 k and you will not have an oil related issue
Changed the filter at 6k which is half tge life of the filter typically go 10 before filter change 20 an oil change I only run signature nothing less
It is been using it in everything I own for years
I have been using Amsoil since the early 90's. I joined the Preferred Customer program, save money and free shipping to my Door.
Been using it exclusively since 1978. Engine, transmission, rear ends, grease, everything. Started out with oil testing to verify the claims. Gave up the testing after enough years to know that Amsoil is what it claims to be. I put hundreds of thousands of miles on every vehicle I have owned without a single lube issue and no oil consumption from wear. I drove my Miata for 25 years and 233,000 miles and the engine and drive train were still absolutely solid.
Same here!
Amsoil for my Equinox LTZ and my wifes Impala LTZ. and use their oil filters also
Lived in Phoenix for 35 years. Severe duty to the extreme there with summer months exceeding 110° almost daily. Always bought the best oil. Never had issues in any of my vehicles.
Yes, made the mistake one time of not telling them full synthetic oil. Oil was changed in May, 3 months later there was a deep brown tint/film on the dipstick from the regular oil. The other vehicle I never made that mistake, and a decade later still bright silver/metal dipstick. In 1998 I had a new car and lived in Chicago. We had a real cold front move in, and first oil change I had full synthetic put in. The difference in starting at -20 convinced me, and except the one time, I have only used quality synthetic since.
I live there too. I use whatever name brand is on sale. Never an engine problem. Regularly run my vehicles to 125,000 to 220,000. Don’t go past 7500 miles.
Peoria Az
Use the full synthetic oil that you like and have had no problems with. I used to own a '69 VW bog. Castrol oil recommend and used. If Castrol can protect an engine that's air cooled and no oil filter then it will work fine in a car like my Pontiac Grand am gt1 BY. Works fine. Amazon sells 5 quart bottles for 25 bucks. Good price for a good oil
You do realize that your oil/engine temperature is regulated with a radiator, yes?
I like a man who tests what he says
Use any quality name brand oil, change it at 5000 to 7500 mile intervals and forget about it. Our fleet had many hundreds of vehicles, normal cars and trucks. The sweet spot was any name brand bulk oil changed at no more than 7500 or 6 months. Almost everything got 10W-40. We rarely had anything remotely related to an oil issue. Most were auctioned off at 125,000 still running like new. Heavy use vehicles would go 250,000. Cycle time was about 9 years and out regardless of mileage all still running great. You don’t need amsoil but it’s a fine oil if it makes you feel good. My accord is at 220,000 and like new. Gets whatever name brand is on sale. A friends tundra 5.7 is at 330,000, runs great. Gets whatever bulk oil dealer uses every 7,000 miles. It still has original trans with whatever bulk ATF dealer uses at about 70,000 intervals.
Yeah I think what Ray and others here aren’t getting are that MODERN oils have stringent specs they have to meet. It’s not the 1980s anymore. The latest API specs are pretty tough, GM has their Dexos specs, and the Euro mfgrs have their own specs. The cheapest bulk cases of oil that meet the spec are GREAT choices, that includes Walmart SuperTech oil which is a great oil. Just change it out according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In most cars that’s like 7500 miles these days.
@@dmdx86 What we need to remember is that:
The oil that a workshop uses may have the same name as the oil that you buy at your local auto store, BUT the specs are different.
So potentially many workshops are using an engine oil that only just meets the specs.
It's the difference for example between "Meets C3" and "meets AND exceeds C3"
I don't know if this is still true,
But the dealerships will tender for an oil that just meets the specs, and then purchase from the lowest bidder......
@Erisitcat - Why change the oil if it doesn't need changing? That just makes the consumers wallet lighter and the coffers of the big oil industry richer. Search UA-cam for this video, "409 Thousand Mile Oil Drain Interval with AMSOIL". Don't change your oil, change your thinking. :)
@@HiTechOilCo UA-cam is also full of ruined engines cause people didn’t change their oil. Only 1 person in 10,000 is going to put on the special filter and such. As general advise the smart thing which the typical owner can easily do is just change the oil every 5000 to 7500 and get on with their life.
I would rather cater to the customer base you want business wise than cater to a customer base looking for lowest price. The customers who want the better product are usually the ones who tend to value your services more.
Too many consumers don’t understand the Price vs. Value side of things. Keep doing you and appreciate your videos.
I seen a 2 stroke engine running Amsoil. Was 25 yrs old and looked like new. 4 yrs ago I switched to Amsoil Saber and running 80-1 in everything. They start and run better and no issues. 365 special with 28 inch bar. 340 and 350 all going strong
I've got a 20 year old Stihl string trimmer, well over 1200 hours on it. It's seen nothing but Saber at 100;1 since the day I brought it home.
*AMSOIL is the best. :)
Been using Amsoil in our 2002 Escape for the past year now, changes are at every 3k/3mo. We have owned this vehicle since 2004, I grew up riding in it, learned to drive in it, drive to work in it daily. Coming up on 250k soon, I plan on making it to 1 million miles.
So... that Escape has done 250k in 22 years? And you plan to make it to a million? I don't think you're going to make it buddy... it doesn't add up.
With Amsoil you don’t need to change at just 3k miles, you can easily do 7-10 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
I'm also an amsoil dealer and highly recommend that with my mobile mechanic services. I've had several customers that know what it is, and okay with paying premium. I've also have some that have heard that it's good, tried it in the daily power stroke (signature series), want lab tests at 5k, 10k, 15k and so on. Was impressed and switched there summer procharged Corvette to it. Same thing with testing. And now we're looking at doing a full overhaul of diff, trans, and coolant services along with the nitrous LS fox body drag car he has (which will get a sample pulled after every pass) it's good stuff.
Now, even my customers that don't want to pay the premium for amsoil, I still will use something like Pennzoil platinum. We don't always know everyones situation financially.
AMSOIL saves money vs. other brands. :)
I switched to Amsoil for motor oil last year and I have experienced a difference in how my vehicle performs. I have been using Amsoil ATF and gear oils for while now also. My results from Blackstone Laboratories confirmed how good their oil is.
Project Farm has a really informative UA-cam video about different oils and how he tested them. Amsoil was in the top 3 along with Castrol Edge. I used to run Amsoil in my 1991 Explorer but I did not experience any real differences between it and Castrol or Royal Purple. Anyway, nice video. Thanks...........
I follow Project Farm also. I just watched the latest video on all the oils on a lot of oils on the market. Unfortunately it was 4 yrs ago. The TWO oils that made to the final testing was Pennzoil and Amsoil. Amsoil was the winner. Now when it comes to Diesel engines alot of diesel owners really like Amsoil and the filter system Ray is talking about.
Like Ray said, you just don't run your Explorer hard enough regularly to make a difference. All these oils met the SAE standard. Some are made to perform, the best are made to overperform. What does PF's tests show about oil's after 50 heat cycles, overheating, contamination. water or fuel dilution? None of us know because he don't test for that. He just shows his 'lab's' before and after test results on the new used for the test.
The problem with project farms test is they are not being done on actual car parts they are simulation test unfortunately real world results are actually much different I wish people could understand this and stop blindly using his semi scientific test they don't add up in real world, cars function longer and run way longer than doing a bearing test and adding some heat.
@@Phil_86 I've got a 2004 Duramax with 521,000 miles on it. I also use Shell Rotella T5 15W40. I used to use the T6 but it's hard to find.
ran a 67 Mustang as a race car , 1/4 mile dragster, and ran nothing but 20-50w Castrol. When we tore it down after about 1500 miles of passes it showed very little wear
I would rather listen to a mechanic 20 years deep in the business than a random UA-cam comment
Not relating to Ray, but there are mechanics (and other professions) decades into their professions yet thoroughly incompetent and ignorant about critical aspects of their work. Experience is demonstrable and doesn't always perfectly align with time spent acquiring that experience. Quality over quantity, if you prefer.
Not ripping on our channel's host here but some mechanics do not know what they are doing. Once had a dealership diagnose an issue as a defective distributor and coil. I wasn't buying it. Went home and talked to the guy with six dead cars in his yard. We started the vehicle and as always the idle got rough and missing. I had noticed it it really seemed bad on rainy days. When I pointed that out he grabbed a spray bottle with water and started misting it over electrical parts and harnesses. He found a hairline crack in the distributor cap. New cap and problem solved. Sometimes experience without a license is just as strong as with one.
I've got a bridge for sale, if your interested.
@@grimacresok the mech at the dealer was right on the distributor because the cap is a part of it though...
I always start with a high quality synthetic oil, and then just change the filter once a month. If you change the filter religiously, you don't have to change the oil as often.
Good day to you, Ray.
I think it's always a good idea to put the claims of manufactures to the test and find out for yourself if the product is reliable or not.
Go for it.
It’s less headache for you using your recommended oil and also better for your clients. Your knowledge is the best recommendation for the client
Not sure if I mentioned in previous posts but my last Truck i purchased at 79,000 miles and immediately did an oil change w/Mobil 1 did 5000 mile intervals. I ended up getting 277,000 miles until the Tranny failed and the body was falling apart living in Northern IL. Vehicle was 98 F-150 5.4 2 valve. Still use Mobil 1 in new vehicle once It turned 5000 miles and that was 72,000 mile ago in a 2012 F-150 5.0. Only the Best.🤙
Yeah, I went with Mobil 1 back in 2012 with my daily '99 Camry 6 cyl, and it's still on the road today as my only car with no oil burning or engine noises at ~230K miles.
Fine, I have a friend that drove a F 350 from 150k to 350k miles changing the oil every 25k miles. One example is not a study.
Looking forward to this test, I have used Amsoil for over 20 years now and have not had any issues. I typically tow heavy with my Ram 3500, and usually change about every 7000 miles and the oil still looks fairly clear. Enjoy your channel. Keep us informed.
If this is the Cummins engine and it's "fairly clear" at 7K I call BS. The cummins will soot the oil in nothing flat regardless of what oil you put in it. The difference is the shear tolerance of the oil over mileage and time.
@@gdt5430 it may not have been a Cummins in the 3500. I have an '01 Ram3500 dually 4wd with a v10 8.0L gas engine in it.
Keep doing what you do as its great! Use and sell the quality oil 👍
Hi Ray, been a mechanic since the 80s. I remember amsoil coming to the school(DTI) and training us about lubrication and physical practical tests.
I'm also an amsoil dealer, arriving here because of the need for specific high end oils difficult to source locally.
I've tested the signature series diesel(5w40) 20k miles.
I also changed the lower oil pan ( previous owner stripped the drain plug)
At 200k miles, the om642 is super clean inside and still runs like new.
Bear in mind this vehicle is driven also by 3 of my children basically driving it like they stole it.
You probably won't be able to stress test like we can 😂
As far as i can tell, Ray you been 100% on every recommendation you have offered!!! So keep it up!!!
I switched to Amsoil almost 2 years now. Very happy and am very confident trusting this product. So much out there that shows it's among the best oil of not the very best oil.
A bypass system is a great route paired with a good oil. The oil I use is Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 changing at 5,000 miles. The Amsoil bypass system as with others allow you to use a filter with a 1 inch or larger mount there by having a two quart or more 2-3 micron filter. Go bypass do your regular oil changes then change the bypass filter at 30,000 to 50,000 miles.
After watching Ray for the last 4 plus years, I trust his judgment better than just about anyone else.
You do you Ray! You know what your customers need/want! Dont worry about what the naysayers post! Keep wrenching and stay strong! Love fromAZ ❤
It will be interesting to see what the difference is. I also use T-6 and have entertained the idea of switching myself. Keep up the great work,Ray, I have learned a bunch by watching your vid,s !!
I always buy the Cheap Rural King Oil and change it often. It think it is much more important to run clean oil than really high priced oil. My 2002 F150 has a 527,000 miles on it. I bought it new and it has the Original Motor and Transmission. Never any major problems. It only takes a 10 minutes to change it. All Oil may not be the same, but carbon is carbon. Your engine makes the same amount of it and it contaminates your oil and makes abrasive no matter how expensive it is.
If you have a car that uses a cartridge filter unfold the pleats and at the crease in the bottom of the pleat you will find carbon particles.
I agree. However, I choose to buy the high end oil and change often. Today's oil life meters also help as it takes real work usage into account, instead of guessing; I just change at 50% life.
An unopened bottle of cheap, dead dinosaur technology petroleum motor oil is not really, "clean". Pouring that stuff into an engine worth many thousands of dollars is *pouring contaminants into that engine*. Search the Internet for this article, "Synthetic Oil: Rx for Long Engine Life", by Curt Scott. "Crude oil possesses thousands of varieties of contaminants, depending on the oils geographical and geological origins, which no amount of refining can entirely remove. Corrosive acids, paraffins and other waxes, heavy metals, asphalt, naphthenes and benzenes, as well as countless compounds of sulphur, chlorine, and nitrogen, remain in the finished product". Changing oil often is very expensive and also subjects the engine to repeated dry starts, robbing thousands of miles in wear from its life. The aforementioned article is very interesting. The 3,000 mile drain pain is from the 1960's, over 60 years ago.
@@lhurst9550 - Why change oil that doesn't need changing?
@@HiTechOilCo Nothing beats fresh new oil. Changing is the ultimate filtration.
"Stay tuned, because THIS will be a very good video...."
Also, check out the Motor Oil Geek. He does a lot of testing on various oils.
Great info…thanks. My former brother-in-law was a petroleum engineer. He was of the mind that the oil you used (assuming appropriate API rating and viscosity grade) was far less important than ensuring regular/shorter oil change intervals, especially for cars with inherent sludge problems created by poor design (e.g., Chrysler 2.7) or more complex engines, such as engines with cylinder deactivation systems. He used to say that full synthetic oils were clearly superior to conventional oils, but unnecessary for most people unless their car maker specifically recommended/required it (e.g., any turbo engine).
As he explained it, using synthetic oil was like putting six legs instead of four on the footstool in front of your favorite TV chair. You could do it and your stool would certainly be stronger...but it would just make your stool more expensive and it wasn’t going to make it last any longer.
Any synthetic oil is perfectly fine as long as you change it when you're supposed to change it. I've taken several cars and trucks over 200,000 mi, never had to replace an engine. 7k tops between changes and you're good. You have to also remember people don't keep their vehicles nearly as often as they used to, so they don't care.
the current statistics show the US auto fleet is as old as it has ever been. Average: 13 years old. So the 'keep it a short time' people are repos.
I have no dog in the fight but to say this. I've worked on my own cars since the late 80's and in my experience some oils ARE better than others, but more important is
1. change oil and filter often. around 5k. and good quality filter.
2. don't brand swap! whatever oil you use, keep using it. I know that is not convient for a shop, but it can be if the shop keeps using the same oil.
Here's why, I think the sludge largely comes from additaves that don't play well togeather, not the oil it's self. I worked on a Thunderbird Turbo back in the mid 90's it always had it's oil changed at one shop that used Havoline. I did some engine work on it and was impressed it had 0 sludge inside the motor, it still looked brand new with over 100k. (This was not seen alot in the 90's) But Valvoline came out with Premium oil for cars with Turbo's, so I put that in the car. Unfortunately the valve cover gasket got pinched when I installed it. Two weeks later I replaced the valve cover, and found sludge in the engine. Flushed it twice and went back to Havoline. Don't swap oil mfgr's.
Good advice, pick your poison and change it often. I've always got 200K plus on my rigs.
In 1975 my dad bought a new vet in 1976 or 77 he started running Amsoil. He changed the oil once a year and the filter twice a year. 10 yrs later when he sold it, the engine was still in great shape. I used to run it as well. I've only ever had 2 engines fail 1 was a CAT that had an injector go full rich and washed one cylinder (and it's oil) and started knocking real bad. Fortunately it was a lease because the mechanic would not fix it when it was just a small knock. The other was an Astro van I bought very used with a 4.3 and app 300000km. To be honest it still ran but started fouling 2 spark plugs on a regular basis. So I say quality oil always changed before it turned tar like and don't look back. Like the ad said Pay me now or pay me later.
My '09 SRT8 Challenger calls for Mobil1 0W-40, and it specifically says it on the oil filler cap. Its a very good synthetic oil, but after watching many videos, like ProjectFarm, Lake Speed Jr's tribology, and even reading Bob( the oil guy) website, I tried the Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum 0W-40, and I'll be damned if it didn't feel better. It seemed more slippery to the touch, and the engine ran much quieter. It was then i realized that even SRT had added PUP to its SHORT list of their recommended engine oils. I also used PUP 5W-20 on my wife's new Cherokee, and the mileage immediately jumped 1.5mpg at the next gas tank fill. From what I've seen regarding Amzoil, I don't doubt it is top-notch, it's just a little out of my price point.
I have been running Amsoil CVT lube in my 2014 Honda Accord almost since it was new. It now has almost 200k miles and still shifts like new.
That's great to hear
Ctv do not shift.
@@Roboticpycotic Belt position shifts.
My $.02... I am one of those guys that put well over 300k on a vehicle before I sell it or trade it in. I do all my own service at home and also work for a petroleum company that does research on this stuff. I maintain 5 vehicles and an airplane. I use Mobil 1 (not my company) in all my vehicles except the airplane. Due to the higher temps, if it has a turbocharger, I change every 5k. Otherwise, I go 10k. Toyotas, BMWs, Chevy, Ford are my brands. Years ago, i worked at a place that dip-cleaned engine blocks and the owner took data on what engine oils were used and sure enough, some are way better than others. All oils are better now than they were then but there is still a big difference. Amsoil and Mobil 1 are what I consider high quality oils. BTW, it is Ray's business and he can push whatever oil he wants. He has earned enough respect with his work ethic that I and many others trust his judgement.
I truly believe in Amsoil my dad had a company truck it was a 2010 f250 with the 5.4 3v and they said he could do the oil changes at home the truck had 60,000 miles on it when he got it and I started to run amsoil 5w20 signature series and we were doing the oil changes at every 15,000 miles by the time he retired from that job the truck had 430,000 miles on it all original every fluid in that truck had Amsoil
Remember folks, you get what you pay for!!
I’ve been running premium oil products for many years on our vehicles and have yet to have any wear issues. When you have a powertrain which is worth $20,000 plus then you had better use premium oils.
The 2 micron filter is a very interesting idea.I used to work in coal mining in the UK , setting up a new mine we started filtering all our hydraulic oil down to 5 micron, ( this was cleaner than the oil out of the barrel), up to the time I left the mine our hydraulic failure was virtually zero.This was done in conjunction with regular debris monitoring of the oil .
Got a cousin work in Australia in mines
I use Valvoline Advanced full synthetic. Thanks for the video Ray.
Same Here or Castrol, Amsoil is on my list as well.
Thanks Ray! We really need more people in this industry doing this type of thing .. there is so much fluff its difficult to really tell who's telling the truth and whats nonsense.
I use Amsoil 5W-40 diesel oil in my Hino box truck. All I can say is the difference was so noticeable from the 1st start after switching to Amsoil. The engine runs smoother, starts a lot easier (5W-40 vs 10W-30) and better fuel mileage (1mpg). It's worth the $$.
As I said once before, I've been using Castrol for 60 years and never had an oil problem. I change it when it needs to be changed. All my cars have had over 200,000 miles on them. My current 2001 Mazda Tribute, bought new, has 267K+ and I just changed the oil and filter last week.
Valvoline, Castrol and Amsoil are what I will use, I haven't used Rotella but it only comes in 4 qts...
I tried mobil 1 once and won't ever again, it's overrated
Bp oil Castrol has always been a top self. Almost all oil field service trucks run them down here in the south. Chesapeake oil here in Oklahoma will only run bp oil. My Ford excursion 2002 6.8 litre has only run Castrol it, now has 422k miles on it still going strong.
I’ve used full synthetic oil since 1975, or so. Never had any problems due to the oil. I’ve used, (Mobil 1) until now because I can’t do my own oil changes anymore, new ford, but I still use their full synthetic. Maybe I can request Amsol.
I've been doing my own oil changes since the early 1990s
Brand name didn't matter except fram bottom of the line oil filters
The main thing is to do it frequently or at least annually if one doesn't drive over 5k miles a year
40 + year mechanic here. I've seen and used many different oils over the years. Early Pennsylvania crude oils were very high in paraffin, causing sludge even if they were changed regularly because the heat released the wax and sludged up the engines. You don't see that anymore really. Most important thing is regular interval changes. Never go as long as a manufacturer recommends. Case in point, I had a customer using Castrol in a Volvo and followed the manual. The engine use two quarts in between changes and was getting dirty. I advised him if using synthetic to go no longer than 5,000 MI. He was skeptical but did it. By the third oil change the vehicle stopped using oil and the engine cleaned up. BTW.... I've actually been using the Walmart Supertech brand oil lately, the API service and added a packages are similar to many leading brands, and the oil fares well under scrutiny. I change the oil in my Toyota every 3000 miles with this oil,And supertech filter, which is also rated well, and my engine is perfect and super clean. Just one man's input......
Ray you are spot on with using the best quality products.
Ray you are a professional. That said, you are very ethical in your dealings with your customers and the general public. I take my stance on this. Given your care and ethics in running an honest business and giving the customer the best you got, I stick with you Ray, if you say a product is a good product is good then it is good. Ray always remember that folk have the right to be wrong. Problem is some folk exercise their right to be wrong more than others😂
if you stand with Ray give a thumbs up😊
If the oil has the rating, no matter who made it it is fine.
Having used Mobil 1 for about 20 years and then seeing the Amsoil product I did some research. Amsoil clearly exceeds by far all aspects of oil specs. My wife's Rav4 AWD, now that she is retired, is only driven about 4500 miles a year, Having converted to Amsoil and seeing the results, I am comfortable changing the oil once, maybe twice a year. I have also changed out the transfer case and rear diff to Amsoil gear oil.
I change my oil once a year because my vehicles sit six months a year. So high dollar is not needed, but even cheap oil isn't cheap anymore.
Yup, I have 2 vehicles that see less than 5 k miles a year and an annual oil change is sufficient
As long as it meets the manufacturer standard, oil is oil. I use whatever is on sale and my truck doesn't care. I live in the desert, where it gets up to 110* in the summer and freezing in the winter. I've never had an issue with any of my vehicles. I always change the oil at 6 months or 5k miles.
+1 It is not the oil, it is the maintenance. I change the oil at about 2500 miles across my 5 vehicles. I buy the Penzoil/quaker state/mobile 1/valvoline on the WalMart shelf, whichever is on sale. I add Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil, follow label instructions. I get oil filters online. I have a 2.5L 2011 Ford Fusion with 204k miles I bought at 154k miles. It doesn't burn a drop of oil no leaks and gets almost 30MPG. TIP: my oil changes have these extra steps: Drain oil. Leave drain plug open. Pour in about 16 oz of diesel fast. Let drain. Marvel at how dirty it comes out. Pour in about 16 oz of cheap-o supertech oil to 'rinse out' diesel. While that drains, change oil filter. close up drain plug and do your oil fill.
I'm thinking that it's the maintenance that is important...not necessarily the oil itself. I've always looked at the oil that's on sale, and just pick the best of those brands. ALL oil protects against thermal breakdown, it lubricates, etc....the important part is regular oil changes. For whatever reason, I end up with Valvoline, Castrol GTX, or Mobil 1. I use mystery oil additive and a fuel treatment every 5 fill-ups. My odometers are at 217k, 115k, and my crown jewel is 1983 Toyota Celica with a 22-RE engine....313 THOUSAND MILES. Regular maintenance is the important part. To this very day, the best car I've ever driven, is my Celica; it beats out my wife's new vehicles.
Look at the dipstick. Is it bright shiny metal color? If not, you see the difference. I can tell you at -20, you can tell the difference between cheap regular oil and full synthetic. When it is 110, that sludge turns your dipstick brown.
Exactly. Aren't the base oils all the same and the additives are the difference? Run an oil that meets specs and change it regularly. I would be more concerned about the brand of oil filter that is being used.
@@john_in_phoenix I would love to look at it - but what dipstick - Volvo's no longer have them - just a digital meter hidden somewhere in the Sensus displays.........
My father made oil in a lab at the molecular level for 40 years before retiring. He now tests oil on the market as a contractor to make sure it is what they say they are. Because of that, he tells me that he will use mobile 1 ep as his top pick, or valvoline if it is on sale. He said there is nothing wrong with amsoil, just there are better options. That being said, to each their own. There are several great and exceptable oils. Any will work fine.
Great that you try the products you use on your own truck .You have been very honest in saying in reality you dont know .None of this " ive been a mechanic for 59 years so i know about oil ".No they dont .As the oil companies keep the contents a secret it leaves some what of a guessing game .
There are a lot of videos out there by engineers that demonstrate the huge difference between conventional motor oil and the best synthetic oils from the major manufacturers. As far as Amsoil vs. the good synthetics, Amsoil does show slightly less wear under controlled conditions. The question is whether it is worth the difference in price.
great looking neighborhood . dont have to worry about strangers coming to your door trying sell you something and may be scoping out your home to break in. Love it
Actually homes on five acres or more are very susceptible to theft. No neighbors to witness criminal activity. My place in the country is not even visible from the road. We do get trespassers on trail cams. Had one arrested, it was a neighbor from a quarter mile away. Turns out he was wanted.
He has 555K strangers and he was not hard to locate. Back in his early days he had his full name in his emails if he responded to you. Until I suggested removing the last name.
Hi Ray, After listening to your short video about the qualities of engine oils. I fell I must offer my opinion. First I have owned and maintained Autos and trucks for 50+ Years I Have Always Used products that have been recommended by professionals that I respected of. After Watching you for a couple of years now I include you in that group of professionals that I would follow your recommends. I am entertained by your singular variations upon the english language. Keep it up young man I am there are many more that share that opinion
I have run AMSOIL in my diesel pickup for along time now and will not change it’s a great oil all around. I run there product it the engine,both diff,the trans and transfer case I look at it as little more insurance protection wise. Keep up all the good work!
I have been running Amsoil for twenty years in all of my vehicles, plus performance shops I know of and use recommend it.
Maybe these commentors should watch Project Farm
"Ford Boss Me" and "Project Farm" have performed extensive oil testing. I use whatever my repair shop uses (Valvoline synthetic) and change my oil at 3,000 miles. That works out to about every 6 months now that I'm retired. I also add a couple of oz of MMO to my oil each change.
BG products are awesome!!
Traditional Marvel Mystery Oil is not recommended to blend with synthetic oil according to the manufacturer. But, I did see that they are now marketing a product that will mix with synthetic oil.
The biggest contributor to engine wear and break down IMO is failure to change the oil and filter when it's needed. Some vehicle manufacturers recommended oil change intervals are a stretch to say the least. Modern full synthetics used in naturally aspirated / GDI engines are generally good for "up to" 5k miles. But I wouldn't recommend exceeding that. Even less if its constant stop and go city driving. Or up to 3k miles for forced induction engines. Namely turbo and supercharged engines. And don't just assume that the oil level will stay the same. Remember to check the oil level every so often. Now as Ray was stating, not all oils are engineered the same. That's very true. Some are refined better than others and most have different levels of additives to suit different needs. So, in this case, it's up to the consumer to shop for an oil that suits their needs and change the oil when it needs it.
I ran my 96 Cherokee over 500 thousand miles, the last 250 thousand on basic Castrol semi-synthetic barrel oil, changing the oil and filter anywhere from 5 to 7 thousand miles (when I had a few minutes to get it done). I never had any oil related problems.
If I changed at 5 thousand miles, it would still be at full level. If I waited until 6500 to 7000, it would be up to a quart low.
Most of the miles that went on it were highway miles at 80 mph with the vehicle crammed full of cargo (I had overload springs installed in the rear end to carry the weight).
This will be an interesting test
Rotella is good too. I am a heavy equipment tech
Me too
15/40 and my Canyon with 315,000 don't burn a drop
@@cv1919It's good oil
Was wondering why Ray dropped T6??? I have an older model F250 and use T5 and for the tractors use T4. No problems after all these years.
I say whatever works for you... run it! I have a 2014 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost with 95K miles. I used to change the oil every 5k, but now i change it at 3,500. It's turbocharged w/ GDI and those turbos run hot and i wanna keep this truck until it dies. I've had the best luck with Pennzoil UP and Valvoline HM Maxlife. I switch back and fourth between the two every other oil change interval and replace the filter as well(Purolator Boss). It's been running so much smoother and quieter for the last 20k miles. Not to mention the mpg have increased from 17.5 to 19.1. I'll stick with this system.
Also i recently heard about the catch cans, so i picked one up last week. I'll install that and see what difference that makes.
Ray, it's always been said that experience is the best teacher. You sell what you think the best oil is based on your experience. As for me, I've mentioned here quite a few time that I also have a Duramax LB7 that has 521,000 miles on it and it runs quite well. I was also using Shell Rotella T6 15W40 but that was getting hard to find in the 2.5 gallon size. I am currently using the T5 blend and am experiencing no problems. I also change my oil and filter but once a year so it sees 12,000-13,000 miles between changes.
Im a Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum guy but I think the Super Tech & Kirkland full synthetics are a great value for what they are. I'd just offer a premium and a budget option. Even the budget oil change will be a decent full synthetic, it just wouldn't be something I'd try running 20k miles. Growing up, my dad was an Amzoil dealer, but without the discount anymore I moved on to Pennzoil. As a regular consumer, I feel it's the best bang for my buck.
The Ultra Platinum isn't Dexos rated so I can't use it in my truck until the warranty is up, that's why it gets the Platinum, everything else gets Ultra.
I use Kirkland 0-20 in my tundra and Kirkland 15-40 in my land cruisers
No issues
Ray if you want to sell a premium product and you back it sell it you know best cause you are a mechanic and you want the best for you and your customers don't worry about the armchair mechanics
When Amsoil is running $16.39 PER QUART for 20w50, I simply cant afford to do oil changes with it. When alll the tests show it's just slightly above the rest, i'll stick with the rest
The problem with SuperTech is you never know what you are getting. Walmart puts the label on whatever they get the best deal on. I think Kirkland has consistently put their label on the same oil.
@@pcspecialistpdxI have used Kirkland oil in my Tundra for years and replaced a head gasket and the head cover was clean- no sludge and you could eat off it.
Speaking from my own experience here. I used to use Pennzoil ultra platinum and Mobil 1 in my Hemi Challenger and Subaru, I then gave amsoil a try and I noticed a night and day difference in smoothness and engine quietness even on those freezing cold morning dry starts, I will never go back to regular low percentage synthetic, There is a reason why you can safely drive 20,000 between Oil changes with Amsoil, I now use amsoil in all my vehicles, again this is my own experience.
I used Royal Purple in my 2006 Pontiac G6 that supposedly had a terrible engine. I got over 300,000 miles on that car before I sold it. Then I switched to Amzoil because a mechanic friend said it was better. I used it for a few years, and then I saw a video on UA-cam from Project Farm that compared Amzoil and Pennzoil Platinum. They were pretty much the same, especially the freeze test on the new and used oil. They both poured about the same after being in a freezer. Pennzoil is just cheaper, so I switched to that
I don't think the commenter was suggesting you shouldn't be offering the best.
I feel he was suggesting AMSOIL is NOT the best.
I don't have a dog in this race, I'm in Europe, I run Castrol Magnatec :D
Castrol magnatec is cheap and a nasty oil
@@sharons9367 It's not cheap and my car runs noticeably better on it than on Total. What is wrong with it in your opinion?
Amsoil only. Always had wonderful service, two stroke, diesel 2 and 4 stroke engine and gas. Always had problems with fossil oils. Used bypass filters too.
I'm a Valvoline guy but i wouldn't call other oils garbage, all these oils are required to meet certain 3rd party specifications and your choice of oil is based on if you are satisfied with an oil that meets the minimum or one that goes above the specs
I've been using Amsoil the past 5+ years, highly satisfied with their Products 👍🏻
Ray you are a mechanic of many years, and you stand by your work. I trust your word and look forward to the testing.
Back in the early 70's I worked at a full service Shell station. You could always tell a vehicle that was running Pennzoil. one quart low on oil and the breather cap would be full of white/brown goop. Always figured it must have been the Z7, whatever that was? I had a 289 in a 67 Ford Custom 500 self destruct running Pennzoil with only 50K miles on it. Jump to the present time. I run Rotella T6 in my diesel tractor. Everything else car, pickup and 2 Harley's get Amsoil. You could also send in samples of your used oil to a lab for analyses. Enjoy your show and compliments to you for your integrity and honesty.
Its the paraffin wax they put back into it, had grandparents that had a corsica, they used penzoil in it, well when the engine popped the dealer claimed they never changed the oil but they had documentation that they did, It's another reason why I will not use Penzoil, and Quaker State is owned by them too, so nope, I won't use trash oil.
I tried mobil 1 once and immediately switched back to Valvoline after having valvetrain noise, mobil 1 is overrated. My only issue with Rotella is they sell only in gallon jug...
Thank you! Now I know what their Z7 was. I've also had good luck with Valvoline. I ran Havoline in a 73 Mustang with a 302. I was the cars 2nd owner and that's what the original owner ran in it from day one. Like you I won't touch Penzoil. @@shadowopsairman1583
I am so glad you are doing this, I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9 with almost 250K on it, Did a compression test about 1 year ago, had 140 PSI all 8 cylinders, ( My Neighbors gave it to me in 2000 I was doing minor work on it till a month ago when I started driving it due to my other car Dying) I was about to start using the Amsoil High Mileage oil and filters. I have seen so much BS on youtube it is nice to see someone like you that is posting truthful fact based info. I have seen do not change you oil filter, Never change Auto Tranny fluid and filter etc. Keep up the great videos.
Dude I run 125,000+ miles a year in a Chevy Tahoe and I’ve been doing exclusive Royal Purple oil changes scheduled every 4,000 miles, but allow to go over by 500-1000 if I’m unable to do a quick service on it. Had valve covers off just to take a look and I’m pretty sure it’s as clean as it was at the factory. This is the second truck I’ve taken care of like this and it just works. I could probably go 7500 miles with a 1qt top off half way thru, but because of excessive idling I don’t. I’d rather spend $80-100 on oil and change it myself in a parking lot wherever I am vs spending $125-130 at a Valvoline for some generic oil
Great idea! Sending samples of that oil every 5k miles to the lab is the best way to know if the oil is actually good or not imho
On the other side, I know for sure people who want you to do maintenance in their car is people who want a professional job, not a cheap job, so is understandable you use more premium material than a cheap repair chain in the corner of the street.
Retired trucke/Blue Seal Autopartsman here. Ive read most oil statements about oil and its associated products over the years.. even seen some oil sample printouts as to its contents... and YES oil is NOT all the same. Its a matter of either 'Trusting your mechanic'' or doing the research on the OIL products you want to use. Which is it you want? Thats a personal choice i figure? At my age, when this Internet provide "EXPERTS" such a Rainman Ray... and the chance to "SEE" this person at work... then WHY become the question does anyone want to question Ray?(Trolls I have to come to the conclusion maybe, wanting conflict to get their "Jollies Off"... Just BAN guys that do crap like this... please Ray? Your advice is "SPOT ON!"
Something a lot of people don't take into account when talking about oil is the particles of combustion that get past the rings and contaminate the oil with soot which does a lot of damage , when you go 6000 plus miles with your oil of choice it isn't the failure of the oil that kills your engine it is the abrasive soot , I have been around heavy equipment for 40 years and trying to skip oil change intervals to save a couple of bucks costs thousands in the long run because your filter can only remove so much before it is doing nothing more than bypassing .Oils today are all good if used right and for their intended purpose .For those of you who insist on going 15000 miles on your pick ups , then at least spin a new filter on at about 7000 miles .
I have a 2007 BMW X3 3.0d (6cyl diesel - not available in the US). It has only 153,000km on the clock. I intend to keep the car for the long term. i recently fitted a Provent 200 oil catch can to my engine. It wasn't easy as there was not much room under the bonnet but after some modifications to the catch can mounts I finally got it installed. I use a locally sourced (Australia) fully synthetic oil (5w40) called Nulon. I also make sure the oil is suitable for use in vehicles with DPF filters fitted. I have been more recently performing much of the car maintenance myself. I have decided to service my intake manifold and was staggered when I removed the throttle body with the EGR valve attached to back of the throttle body. Without any exaggeration there was approximately 1cm of carbon and oily mess around the inside circumference of the EGR valve and a serious amount of carbon around the intake manifold (plastic). I am in the process of cleaning all this built up carbon off the manifold with a flat bladed screwdriver, a brass brush in a cordless 1/4inch impact driver and oven cleaner. It is coming off with a fair degree of effort. I am amazed the car ran so well with the amount of carbon buildup. More recently I have been changing the oil about every 5,000-8,000km. I believe preventative maintenance is the best approach with any car particularly those with diesel engines.
Have you tried using Shell Helix ultra ECT C3?
If you live in / near Newcastle I may have a spare bottle lying around that you can try (for free)
They forget use the oil in your own car and trucks.so you sale what use in your vehicles.I like that
I'd rather use Walmart or Costco synthetic oil and do 4-5 thousand mile oil changes vs using Pennzoil ultra platinum or Amsoil and run higher mile intervals. Especially on forced induction engines as more frequent oil changes are critical in the new turbocharged engines. The bypass filter is an excellent idea, but I certainly wouldn't try running 30k miles as that's just asking for trouble. As I'm sure you know, Project Farm has extensively tested engine oils and the top two were Amsoil and Pennzoil ultra platinum, however for your average everyday vehicle I doubt if you'll see a benefit. I still think that more frequent oil changes are the way to go and several Ford and GM techs would strongly agree. In your case where you're running your truck hard, the Amsoil would benefit it, but I'd still do more frequent oil changes.
I’ve used Amsoil in multiple engines over the years, and have never had any issues from it. I trust Amsoil more than Internet UA-cam trolls.
Amsoil is all I want in my vehicles
I have been an Amzoil dealer for over 15 year's. I have one vehicle with over 250 thousand miles, and it runs perfectly today. All of my other vehicles use Amzoil only. I also use Amzoil in my Hustler zero turn lawnmower, which has over 3 thousand hour's on it. So yes, I will only use Amzoil products for the rest of my life.
For being a dealer for over 15 years, you would think you would know how to spell it?🤷♂️
@@bearing_aficionado Amsoil
@BLUELINEOFCORRUPTION Yeah, I know how to spell it, but you spelled Amzoil instead of Amsoil.
@bearing_aficionado Not everyone is perfect, not even me.
Great work, Ray....staying true to you and us!!
Any quality oil that meets API certification is a good oil to name a few. (Valvoline, Chevron, Shell, Mobil) If you were working on premium vehicles, then use the best Amsoil oil. The vehicles you service is worth all that. So dont waste their money. Frequent oil changes is cheap insurance. Dont go for 10k mile oil changes. Max 5-6k or 6 months change the oil.
I use ultra penz high mileage in my 14 f150 and change it every 5000km. So far 140,000km fingers crossed as I tow heavy
I look at the recommended spec by the engine manufacturer and make sure that the oil I buy meets the specs they set such as Ford WSS M2C913-C/D. I can get good oil that does not meet that spec, but I wont use it in my car. I also do oil changes every 7500km (4660 miles) when the manufacturer recommends every 15000km (9320 miles), and so far this has worked really well for me.
Hi there...oil makes a difference, I built a new engine for my truck a few years ago. I took a 120000 mile engine apart that was surprisingly clean on the inside, I was using a higher quality oil, my grandfather suggested I use the oil that he used as it was good oil and cheaper. After 10k I had to adjust rockers and imagine my surprise when I had to scrape the sludge from the inside of the valve cover... I'm back to the higher quality oil and things looked better than they were
It's really easy to prove that Amsoil or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or whatever other premium oil are better oils than the cheap stuff, just do an oil analysis on new and used samples. The premium oils will suffer less degradation of the additive package over time than the cheap stuff. Lake Speed Jr. (son of the former NASCAR driver) has a UA-cam called The Motor Oil Geek where he does just that. He's a highly respected lubrication expert with his own testing company now. A collab between the channels could easily settle the argument with hard science, not just anectdotes.
I have always used Castrol gtx ray and never had a problem!
Seriously agree with you, I was brought up and trained on aircraft with "watch the pennies and the pounds will watch themselves"by cheap and pay more for the failures in the long run.Proof and testing where possible is the right way to go.
Now more than ever a clean engine is a happy engine. If a superior product delivers engine cleanliness as well as longer service interval...fantastic.
Back 20+ years ago I worked in a small garage/ filling station. One customer had a old Ford with a v6 and he abused it and used cheapest ofr the cheap oil and put about a gallon a week in. I eventually talked him into letting me flush and put better oil in and he stopped burning so much oil it did save him money.
He also used re tred tyres and every few months had one fall apart again I got him to run cheap but not rubbish tyres and he stopped having them fall apart.
It took him a while to see a bit more quality isn't more expensive.
I run oe quality and add lucas fuel and oil additives.
My guy!!! Amsoil in everything I own. Not because I’m a fan boy, but because it works better than anything else I have found.
I use mobil 1, have been for years and change my oil every 5k. Never had a problem in over 30 years of driving.