It’s been about 7 years but I did two 5,000 mile intervals with Amsoil Signature Series and regular Pennzoil Platinum. Both 5w30. 2 intervals with each oil sampling the 2nd batch of each in my 2013 Nissan Titan. The Pennzoil in my case came back with lower wear than the Amsoil. Like you said the Amsoil would be the better choice for extended intervals. There is not a bad oil these days. Reasonable maintenance intervals are more important than brand. Great video.
I couldn't agree more. I've used Supertech and now Kirkland for years. With no issues. Gas mileage the same as new with over 100k. Dp what makes you happy.
I've never used Amsoil and have over 30 years with no problems with my engines or my customer's engines, except for one customer who was having me use Amsoil and had a failure. I fairness, he was running the Amsoil too long because he believed their 25k mile interval claim.
Been running Amsoil in all my vehicles since the early 90s with zero problems. Multiple vehicles over 100K and one over 385,000. Currently my daily has just over 101,000 miles and my truck is coming up on 300,000 miles. I use the Signature Series and swap the oil every 10K. I used to use Castrol and Mobile 1. I’ll keep using the Amsoil forever, they’ve MORE than convinced me of the quality.
Not true,, what is true is that' Amsoil is by far,, the MOST EXPENSIVE AND ITS NOT NEEDED. ALL THE TOP TIER OILS GIVE GREAT PROTECTION AT LESS THAN HALF THE.COST. SAVE YOUR HARD EARNED 💰 🤑 💸 💲
The point at the end you made about the fuel dilution was an excellent observation that would definitely dictate when the oil needed to be changed regardless of what brand you use nice job.
I’ve been using AmSoil for over 40 yrs. Although I’ve experienced some small amount of oil usage in a couple of my cars, the vast majority of the 40+ vehicles I’ve had used none. They always ran great. I drove my cars hard and never ever had any oil related issues. On fact, on one the engine was so clean when I had to repair a leaky valve cover, I was shocked how clean the inside of the engine was. Amazing. It’s the finest there is.
I have used synthetic oils since 1980 in 28 different cars many going well over 200,000 miles with once per year oil changes. Also, never had an engine related failure. Even Amsoil says xxxx miles or one year whichever comes first on many of their oils. So, there is no reason to over pay for synthetic motor oil. They all meet the ASE SP requirements. So any named brand synthetic should be ok. As I have used Mobil 1 Castrol Pennzoil Valvoline Quaker State without any issues in the last 45 years.
@@jefferysurratt5650👎I'd like to see you prove that. Otherwise you're just another troll trying to fuck up someone's car because you work for the vehicle manufacturer industry. Trying to make rich assholes richer by destroying people's shit. That's how Capitalism works and paid trolls are everywhere, so prove it or zip it before you destroy someone's shit. And put your whole real name so we know who to sue when you fuck up someone's car spreading false information.
In my case, I live in New Jersey and use Amsoil SS during the harsh winter and summer. In spring and fall, I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. My driving conditions are demanding: 10 hours every day, with 30% on highways and 70% in the city, involving a lot of stop-and-go traffic and idling. On the other hand, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 is hard to find in New Jersey. After many months of searching, I was finally able to grab a 5-quart bottle last weekend, made in 2024. I always keep three oil change sets in my storage.
Thanks for the analytic approach in the video and the interpretation of the results. My Mercedes Diesel has now reached 300k miles and is still running well. My idea has been to change once in a while the oil brand as each has its specific strengths. So I changed between Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and Castrol during the last 15 years. Now as i am driving less I stay with cheaper Pennzoil Ultra 0W40. Most important is the regular oil change including a quality oil filter.
@@YouDontKnow-thatyes, according to tests Amsoil Signature Series is best. But I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for my car and Valvoline Advance for changing the oil on my families cars.
You would do well with either of these. Just remember… a quart of oil IS the cheapest mechanic you will ever pay! Do not skimp on it. I’ve been using Amsoil Signature Series for over twenty years and over half a million miles, changing it at 15,000 mile intervals with no internal engine problems or sludge accumulation.
Guessing the Calcium may have been deliberately kept down by both manufacturers over concerns over Low-Speed Pre-Ignition and to achieve the API SP designation as well as Dexos1 Gen 3 Designation.
Yeh, I heard high Calcium on direct ignition engines can contribute to pre-ignition...So, maybe the Pennzoil is better on direct injected engines? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Half the price of Amsoil anyway.
Hey! I'm new to your channel. Great video btw. I have a '14 F150 with the 5.0 coyote. I went through extensive reading, research, videos and even went so far as to talk to an Amsoil dealer that took my on a virtual tour and explained in DEPTH how it was different/better than other leading brands. Bottom line, he said, if you're using your truck as most use a car, to go to work, park for 8 hours and drive home, Amsoil is overkill. If you're going to be towing ie pulling a camper, a boat, and the rest if the time it's going to be a "daily driver", you don't need Amsoil, unless you want that extra piece of mind. When I told him I pull lawn equipment on a 22ft. open deck trailer that weighs around 5,500lbs every day, he said "the YOU NEED AMSOIL".
How about earlier replacement transmission oil, transfer case oil and differentials oil? Maybe it’s a good idea to do it just after brake in period? Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
@@ulisg6040 Thanks for the suggestions...transmission fluid R/R might be kind of tough without a lift, but transfer case and pumpkin jobs should be no problem. cheers
I'm an Amsoil fan, but I have to admit that it seems standard oils have finally caught up in the last ~5yrs. Amsoil being a group IV synthetic gives it an edge in extreme cold temps, but other than that you can effectively the same performance out of any good API SP full synthetic oil like the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for half the cost. For now I'll pay the extra ~$35/yr to support a US company since everything else seems to a global corp or Saudi owned.
Great video. Ive always been a HUGE fan of Amsoil. I run it in my ATV and my weekend car that gets driven hard. My daily's....I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and like you, 8k km (5k miles). I have in the past used Amsoil Signature in a Lincoln Continental V8 that I daily'ed mostly highway and would go 30k km (19k miles). Theyre both amazing oils in my opinion but Pennzoil offers the best value especially if you aint doing the extended OC intervals.
Great information!!! My last 3 Jeeps since 2016 all oil services were doneusing Amsoil Signature Series 0w20. My cost every 5,000 miles was $101.78 from a local store. Last month I went to the store and they were out of Amsoil. I went to Walmart and found Pennsoil Ultra Platinum and my total was $76.42 plus tax. After 1,200 miles I have't seen or felt any difference on my 2021 Jeep Gladaitor Rubicon. My MPG is still 16.4-16.8. I have 32,000 miles on it so I'm sticking with Pennsoil. Yanni
Sometimes I think there is a placebo effect when you change to a different brand of oil, like "it runs quieter!" Mostly this is in our heads. Yes, the Pennzoil is much easier to get. I can't get Ultra Plat in the stores near me so I order it online from walmart.com with no shipping cost. I've tried to order via Amazon but I've had two bogus orders that I had to return. (either sent me the wrong viscosity or the regular platinum) Thanks for posting your observations! cheers
I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.
Thanks for the video. I’m an Amsoil guy and I get better results in oil analysis with Amsoil XL or even OE than signature series, next I’m gonna try Pennzoil ultra platinum for first time if I get good results I don’t have any problem switching to Pennzoil.
You might have to do a double oil change to ensure that there is no Amsoil remaining in the engine / sump. This would help to ensure that you get the most accurate data if you are collecting oil samples.
Excellent conclusions. I've been an Amsoil Industrial dealer since ~1990 but have converted to Ultra Pennzoil in passenger cars due to cost and similar UOA results over time. For those who can go 10k between changes, Amsoil can make more sense, especially with additional "bypass filtration" which I found essential for those who want 300k from their regular IC engines or 750,000 - 1,000,000 miles on their big rigs. But before moving to a 10k - 15k interval permanently (1-year is max) have Blackstone run the additional TBN (total base number) test to make sure the Amsoil detergent package is working in your situation.
Graet analysis of these oil's, I personally use Amsoil ss 5-30 and a friend of mine uses Pennzoil UP. Both are superb lubricants. Project Farm has done great nonobjective testing on oils,.
Great video, I think this video is a great example of that with the top of the line oils at 5,000 miles wear metals are super close. The number will start to change closer to 10,000 miles or longer than 6months or 350 engine hours. Around 15,000 miles is where you really start to see number differences. Just as you stated in the video. I know for my engine fuel dilution isn't a problem until 20,000 miles
10:53 Wow, excellent point and analysis of your situation here. I love to see that. I am basically in the exact same situation as you in that I feel it's advantageous to do more frequent oil changes due to a factor such as fuel dilution so I run PUP instead of something more expensive.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 well I ran snowmobiles my whole life and with manufacturer oil the variable exhaust valves (power valve) would be filthy after 500 miles or so switched to amsoil and spotless after 500 also got 11k miles on a snowmobile engine with no rebuilds also ran in all of my street bikes all my sports cars and trucks and have never had a single engine issue in the 18 years I’ve been driving and been running amsoil in sleds etc since about 2000
I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.
Amsoil and Wix oil filters. Just drove to Chicago and got 36 mph in the Outback. Ran junk oil it came with the first 500 miles then went to Amsoil. Changing Amsoil at 5000 would just be throwing away good oil. I change the filter at 15,000 which is easy being it’s on top of the engine. That’s the recommendation from Amsoil.
There is also all that dirty oil changing every 5K vs 25K, is it being recycled responsibly. I want the best oil for my Ford Power Boost, and I do care about the environment. I don't drive 25K a year more like 15K, So I will only have to do 1 oil change every year with Amsoil vs 2 or 3 with any other oil.
@@ronc127 used oil is pretty efficiently recycled, from what I can tell. It's not like the old days when we'd dig a pit in the back yard and dump it. Man I shudder when I think of what was once considered "normal"
Great video ,as was the Project Farmer, I started using the Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 , on.2 of my Vehicles, for the last 3 years, and I also do my oil changes around 3 K miles. 👍
BSL uses an outdated, indirect fuel dilution method. Those with GDI engines should use a lab that offers Gas Chromatography, which is a direct, and accurate ASTM method for fuel dilution. Particle Count and TBN, Oxidation, Soot tests should be done with GDI engines. Abrasive soot and fuel dilution is a major problem for GDI engines, as it causes stuck rings, oil consumption and timing chain wear. I significantly reduced my fuel dilution by running Top Tier Premium 93 octane fuel. It reduces engine knock by 90% and more complete combustion, less fuel blowby. I went with a Amsoil SS 0W-40 oil. I run 10k miles, wear is 75% less, viscosity drops but tapers off and levels off right in the middle of the SAE 30 weight range, where it should be. I change the Purolator Boss filter at 5k. At 100k miles, the engine has no varnish, sludge in the camshaft cover, pistons have very little carbon due to premium fuel, and high quality oil. My wear rate of Iron is 1 - 2ppm/1k miles. Running 87 octane and OEM 5W-30, my wear rate was 4-5ppm/1k miles, fuel dilution was over 5%. The lab I recommend is Testoil.com.
@Jamesmark72 87 is bare minimum octane to meet emission standards and prevent severe engine knock. Engine can't compensate for lower octane. I get substantial knock reduction, less fuel dilution and carbon at higher octane premium.
Okay, something i found out about Pennzoil vs the average synthetic, ( i am not sure about Amsoil base stock formula, in regards to what group oil it is ) may shed some interesting light on the oil comparison debate. Reportedly, if true, Pennzoil Platinum, since it is made from natural gas, does NOT need and or require the same additive package as many oils, precisely because , it is made from Natural gas and Not crude oil, so it ( Pennzoil ) is much cleaner/ purer, than the usual base stock oil. Now, not all Synthetics are equal for sure, in regards to Base stock refining, but, i thought it was a good point, and we all need to do our homework, in a much more complete way, than to just look at numbers after the fact. Also in my mind, i believe a sample of new oil for each brand should be tested prior to use, and it against itself and the other brand ( so 4 tests ) to have another bit of information, for comparison, well, if we wanna be really thorough . Question is, is it necessary, well who knows ?
I agree with you in principle on testing before and after, but are you gonna fork over an additional $70 for the testing? I figure a $35 test on used oil every 10k or so will tell me if anything's degrading in the engine. cheers
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that has to be treated to remove impurities) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. The treatment process produces byproducts such as ethane, propane, butanes, and pentanes. Hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, water vapor, helium and nitrogen must also be removed, but you must have faith all such undesirables are gone. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a "cleaner ethylene gas" to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc. Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer--all Amsoil Dealers are considered independent contractors, not employees of Amsoil, Inc.). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next several paragraphs demonstrate a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact x $4 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
I've been using Amsoil in my 5.3 Chevy trying to prevent any lifter problems from the AFM. Currently change every May and November. Thinking about running PUP every 4K to 5K miles to save on cost. Both are excellent oils and cleaner oil is better oil, especially with the direct injection engines. I'm less worried about oil breaking down and more concerned about fuel dilution and oxidation. Like you, I'd like to get 300K.
I work at a Ford dealership and seen all kind of stuff come into the shop. I tell people on ecoboost motors change the one every 3k to 4k miles and natural aspirated motors 5k to 6k miles. Me personally I use Valovine in all my vehicles. Valovine additive package is one of the best. I also use BG MOA additive.
Great video, just being honest. In today's click to buy workd Amsoil comes delivered super fast. The oil filters are superior (get the 25k ones) and I probably run 10-15k a year not as many miles like I used to but I do see very cold (snow conditions in the winter ) and 115 deg hot in the summers. So I run amsoil signature series for my f150 Ecoboost and I change the oil right before winter and right before summer so I always go into the extreme months with fresh oil. I change the filters also each time but I run the higher capacity 25k oil filters. All I am really trying to do is protect my turbos. So they last longer. Unless you are towing or harsh driving changing your oil while running signature series prior to at least 8k is just a waste of money. All the testing I have seen others post online the oil is still above acceptable levels at 20k+ I might start increasing to 3 times a year when my engine reaches 150k miles I am at 92k now. The 3 oils I would recommend is amsoil signature, Pennzoil ultra & the top of the line redline. However I wouldn't run the Pennzoil anything longer than 5-8k miles for the same conclusions you show on this video. It just doesn't have enough additive package (tbn) for it. That's why it's half the cost. If you don't want to run extended miles 8 would Pennzoil it all day. I just like amsoil I cam buy oil for all my vehicles, boats and motorcycles all on one website page have all my info logged and super easy to re order. You also need to consider amsoil buys it's base synthetics from major oil manufacturers amsoil is just a blender not a synthetic oil manufacturer. Pennzoil is also owned by Shell oil who manufacturers 100% synthetic base oil so since they are the manufacturer they can blend and sell via Pennzoil way cheaper than other oil brands. Remember amsoil is a blender meaning they buy the base oil via rail car and they buy additives and they blend there own formula into its products. The bass synthetic they must buy from a major oil company like Shell / P66 / Chevron etc. if you don't want to extend your oil changes or test your oil just run Pennzoil or use one of the mid teir amsoil. They gave 4 or 5 tiers. Dominator (race) the highest , signature series, XL, X .. something like that you guys can check. No need to run signature series of you are just dumping the oil every 5k it's just my opinions.
Another good video. I've been a user of Pennz Ultra for some time now and have been very happy with the results. Like you, I'm sticking with the 5K change routine (also, do tire rotation at the same time). If your looking for another topic along the same lines you could do a video on oil filters (I currently use Purolator One which have an efficiency rate of 99% at 20 microns). Of course, the oil filter topic is just as opinionated as the oil topic. Thanks, again, for making your videos!
Be careful though, smaller micro does not mean it is better, I watched a video showing 20 micro filter restrict flow by a lot, use 30 micro filter you will get way more flow, imagine what 10 micro or 5 micro filter will do? there will be no flow! it makes sense to me, so I switched from 20 micro to 30 micro filter for that reason.
Any decent oil meeting the current certification will allow most any engine to go for 300k without an a failure due the oil itself. 5000 mile oil changes, decent filter, and keeping a decent air filter is part of the protocol. I've done multiple Used oil analysis using Supertech high mileage on two different vehicles, combination driving, typically 4500-5500 miles, though once i waited to 10k miles, every time the oil reports came back satisfactory. In my driving career I'd guess I'm well over 3 million miles combined, never had one engine failure for any reason, oil or otherwise.
I use Amsoil 0w30 Signature Grade Oil in my 2018 Ford Explorer 3.5 L Non Turbo w K&N Oil Filter Change oil and Rotate Tires every 5000 miles now with 75,000 miles runs like new.I will stretch out to 7500 interval with the next oil change.I live in Michigan but the vehicle is garage kept.
More additives doesn't necessarily mean better oil, if you have a better quality base oil you need less additives, I learned this from the motor oil geek.
You are correct. Also Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra Platinum are made from natural gas GTL technology a cleaner base stock. There is no way Amsoil is worth the extra money and going over 7,500 miles between oil changes is just plain crazy.
Pennzoil uses a tri-moly that is equal to 3 times the moly. Right now Shell owns the Pennzoil brand and is offering a $25 rebate on 2 - 5qt jugs or 10 qts., good thru Sept 2024.That brings the cost down to $2.30 per qt. This is for in store purchase at Walmart so it is the Pennzoil Platinum @ $23.92 for 5qt jug. I do 6,000 to 7,500 oci and will be upgrading to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum @ $29.44 per 5qt jug, once I use up the Pennzoil Platinum
Both Pennzoil & Amsoil make good products; I would be happy to run either in my car. Those running turbos or superchargers may want to consider an air-oil-separator or catch can system to augment the PCV system and keep oil out of the intake tracts. More over, taking time to learn about and service your engine oil is a lot more than some drivers can say... coming from a former tech with over 100 sludge motors on the books. Had one come in with over 70k miles on the factory oil before it tossed a rod. Change it regularly and use whichever brand you're most comfortable with.
Wow. Grat video. Here's my two cents. People use what has worked for them in the past. Having said that....Amsoil is the best. I would use It if i were towing. Other than that there is no benefit if you performing regular oil changes.
One thing that wasn’t mentioned is that Amsoil Signature Series oil also helps protect the turbos in the Eco Boost engines, I’m not sure if Pennzoil does because I haven’t looked into it but dealing with Amsoil I know that oil does
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is with GTL base oil which has boiling point over 500F. It's very close to Amsoil signature series PAO base oil, both are great for turbocharged engine from base oil point of view.
For one thing Amsoil is marketed as an extended life oil whereas Pennzoil is not so it would make sense that Amsoil may have slightly more antiwear additives.
I have a 21 PowerBoost and I have been using Motorcraft Full Synthetic oil from day 1. I got my used oil analysis results and I would have to say I am impressed! Metal wear numbers are inline or better than what are in this video. Sticking with Motorcraft.
On the Ecoboost engines, especially the first gen, Ford released a bulletin for the correct oil. It needs to be the oil spec that the Pezoil Ultra Platinum is. This is to reduce the carbon build-up on the intake valves from the oil vapors entering from the pvc. Ford Tech Makuloco has a video also showing the bulletin from Ford. I think Castrol also makes oil now with that spec. This is the whole reason i change my own oil. You never know what they put in.
Agree! The more Calcium in the oil the better chance of LSPI on Direct Injected Engines. The two oils are both excellent products although the Pennzoil is a much better value.
My lab results on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost with over 50,000 mies has lower metal counts (aluminum 4. Chromium 0. Iron 7. Cooper 3) with 5000 miles on the oil. In Texas heat. Running Valvoline Premium Full Sys, under $30 at Walmart for 5 quarts. Results from Blackstone.
I have gone through basically the same situation and I need to do the 5000 or less than 5000 drain interval so I also agree that Pennzoil ultra platinum is the best!!
Lower calcium levels are better for direct injection engines, that is one of the requirements for meeting API SP. High levels of calcium in oil can lead to low speed pre-detonation. Really need a virgin oil sample showing molybdenum levels. Possible since penzoil was run first, the engine used up "absorbed" the molybdenum.
Like Amsoil and Penzoil since Project Farm results long time ago. I watch a lot of Eben in amsoil channel. But for me is cheaper and easier to get Penzoil at Walmart or Autozone. Sometimes just seeing the oil in the shelf is more better for me than ordering and waiting for it to come. But if I made a choice of better oil, we'll I will stick to Amsoil #1.
I'm not sure if it was considered, but the detergent /cleanliness data isn't tested. Wear/reliability is correlated with engine cleanliness. For any engines I have seen opened up with Amsoil SS, it has been sparking silver. For Pennzoil, I sometimes do come across slight varnish ....although uncertain if the life of the engine was exclusively on Pennzoil ultra.
I saw another video on this comparison. The gentleman mentioned that pennzoil ultra platinum is a superior base oil due to the natural gas to liquid formulation. That means it needs less additives to achieve anti wear. I think the oils are virtually equal based on anti wear results. Amsoil needs a bit more additives to get there at 2x the cost.
Amsoil also maintained it's viscosity notably better than PUP so it's not just a case of using more additives, they use some of the best base oils as well. Wish we could see the oxidation values from speediagnostix to get a better idea of how it's holding up at this OCI. Think the takeaway here is that PUP is a great value alternative to Amsoil, but I wouldn't call it better based solely on this.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that has to be treated to remove impurities) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. The treatment process produces byproducts such as ethane, propane, butanes, and pentanes. Hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, water vapor, helium and nitrogen must also be removed, but you must have faith all such undesirables are gone. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a "cleaner ethylene gas" to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc. Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer--all Amsoil Dealers are considered independent contractors, not employees of Amsoil, Inc.). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next several paragraphs demonstrate a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact x $4 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product." Mugenizer would save $100.92 over the course of 5,000 miles (by using Amsoil versus Pennzoil), so the end result would be Amsoil is cheaper than Pennzoil.
Well all I can say is my grandpa had Jeep Duli two doors with over 800,000 Miles And the only oil he used was Pennzoil. Believe it or not this car is still moving forward.
Good info. I am picking up a new f150 3.5l in a few days . At what point should I switch to full synthetic oil? I usually do my first oil change at 1000 miles next at 3000 miles then keep my oil changes under 5000 miles after that. Usually have the dealer do the first oil change because it's free . I was considering the full synthetic at around 3000 miles will it be ok? Thanks keep up the good work .
I think the old myth was that you don't want to use synth oil for breakin because it's "too slippery" and won't allow the engine to properly break in. I believe that myth has been disproved. I went 1000 miles on my first crankcase and have changed it at 4k - 5k every time since. Don't overthink it, you're on the right path.
I went with 1.5 k, 5k and 10k initial oil changes on my F150. Went with full synthetic right away. At 12 k now and at 5k OCI starting at 10k. Easy to remember 10, 15, 20 and so on
My guess for the Pennzoil having less antiwear additives is because the base oil is more pure than other synthetic oils. I will continue to keep using Platinum and Ultra Platinum in all my vehicles. Keeps my oil changes cheaper while still having similar results of what Amsoil offers.
I will go for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30 for oil change intervale between 3000-5000 miles. It's obvious the PUP has lower Calcium and magnesium detergent which means less competition with friction modifier molybdenum and lower coefficient of friction. In theory, PUP has better driving performance if kept within 5000 miles drian interval. The oil viscosity dropped right after fill as used oil residue remains in engine. Also viscosity further reduces quicker after 7000 miles under mild driving condition. It will impact fuel mileage and driving performance. The viscosity eventually increases due to suspended soot, contaminations and oxidation but lubricity is already poor. The UOA may still show low wear level but driving performance and fuel economy will not be optimum. Long drain interval is never a good idea if you are not frequently monitor by used oil analysis. By the way, the used oil oxidation number compare to virgin oil oxidation number is more important than TBN changes.
avoid purolator if you care.....they randomly still have torn media despite having great build "on paper". Use OEM, Mobil 1, Amsoil, or like you said Fram Endurance.
Good information. In my opinion I think no matter which oil you choose you would get good protection for your motor. One other factor would be the oil filter. Using a cheap oil filter with good oil are you really getting good protection. So I think the type of oil filter would play in this testing. At the end of the day. Buying the best oil and filter even if it cost a few dollars more is still cheaper than replacing or repairing a whole engine. “. Cheap insurance “.
I go 8000kms/5000 miles.Been using Mobil 1 5 30 full synthetic and Ford filter.I've been interested in the 2 oils you tested.I hear Mobil 1 is at the lower end of the better oils ,but I have always had good result with it.
I'm sure Amsoil is good but, I used it once and it shot my oil pressure way too high for me to continue with it. The four vehicles at my home use either Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have had nothing but, great results.
Boron also has antiwear properties depending on how it’s used. In fact it works better than molybdenum. That’s why as ZDDP levels are decreasing, most brands are increasing their levels of boron.
For me, i really like PUP and Valvoline HM Max life in my 2014 3.5L EB with 5K intervals. However, lately i now change the oil at 3,500. Tend to go with Valvoline Advanced or the reg. Penn Plat. Clean oil is always a good choice...especially with the Ecoboost engines.
Have 306,000 miles on a 2000 Silverado 5.3 using valvoline synthetic which didn't finish well in PF testing, but changing at every 3,000 miles probably makes up the difference and changing filter probably helps keep the sludge level lower.
So I think what Steve c. Is saying, just CHANGE YOUR OIL sooner than later and most vehicles will go the long haul, and always remember TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR VEHICLE AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU !!! What ever oil you choose. Peace out . And always be kind .
Great video! Which oil did you decide to use? One factor you left out is the viscosity. Both oils thinned a bit, but Amsoil was still in grade, but Pennzoil dropped down to the next thinner grade, with fewer miles. I have gone 10 to 12,000 miles with Amsoil for 27 years with zero problems, one minivan with 287,000 miles, ran excellent with one quart every 5,000 miles and no smoke at all!
current crankcase is amsoil but I'm not married to it. I don't think the dilution has anything to do with the oil per se, but probably more to do with actual types of miles driven, etc. I mean, one oil's not going to fend off dilution any better than the next, given a specific viscosity. Glad to hear of your experience with the Amsoil. cheers...
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Yes agreed. The fuel dilution could be caused by an engine management or some other problem as well. It’s getting into the crankcase somehow.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I was reading a review earlier pertaining to this video, where he claims that Blackstone Labs inaccurately assesses fuel dilution due to their lack of sophisticated equipment. I gather that Oil Analyzer's has such sophisticated equipment, so you may want to give a try?
So test test established the amsoil wins the comparison test. Penzoil is a superior oil also. The extra cost of the amsoil to me is not worth it as the penzoil will get you to the 300,000 mile mark at about half the cost. Most of us here don’t have the connections to get the deep discounts needed to justify using the higher priced oil. You are very good at the way you present your videos.
You priced individual quarts for AMSOIL and 5qt value jug for Pennzoil. AMSOIL prices out to $8.80/quart and Pennzoil ultra actually priced out at $5.89/ qt. I’ve used both of these oils. They are the best!! I run Amsoil in my truck and Pennzoil ultra in my car.
Nope, Rob. Priced Amsoil from gallon jugs, and I had the "member" price. Great stuff, but perhaps overkill for my needs. Currently running the Pz UP. cheers
A way to get an indication of a motor oils base oil content is to look up the oil brand msds. Recently I looked up Rotella’s T6 synthetic oil and it said “hydro treated heavy parafinic, petroleum distillates”, which means group 3 synthetic oil from petroleum. Red Line oil msds says Esters and other chemical names, not petroleum.
I know the comment from Blackstone said don't worry about it but did the viscosity shear out of range for both oils on relatively low intervals due to the short trip/fuel dilution issue brought up? If so I think that supports a 4k-5k interval. The oil might have enough additives to go longer but the other oil properties aren't there for it.
The fuel dilution is the big thing for me which supports a smaller drain interval, otherwise a 5k drain would be a waste of money with these oils. cheers..
2005 Honda Element owner (original engine, no issues, original Trans, No issues) 358,000 miles and going strong. Oil changed every 5,000-7,000 miles. Amsoil= Not worth double the cost. Nobody uses their vehicles to "extreme-Extremes". Pennzoil Ultra= 1/2 the cost = twice as many changes (better). I agree that fuel dilution on most modern vehicles is a problem. I cannot go 8,000 miles on a change nor would I. I'll stick to Pennzoil. Thanks.
I have to say that I used Mobil 1 Syn for 30 years in all kinds of Sportscars including multiple M3s and NEVER had an issue. I would submit that any Synthetic from a major manufacturer will do a great job in 2024 as long as you change it regularly...I primarily use Pennzoil Ultra Syn now in my F150; BMW Syn in my M340, but these oils today FAR exceed requirements for just about any street use. When do you remember anyone saying "My engine failed because I chose the wrong brand synthetic oil???
That was an exceptionally good video Thanks. Is it possible you can do the same test with Red-Line oil too? I'm a firm believer in Red-line oil and IMO, is one of the best oil brands out there. If you can, PLEASE make sure the Red-Line oil you pick for testing is the equivalent to Amsoil, as Red-Line offers few different types of oil.
Both great oils with only price being the difference people chose. I use Amsoil 0W30 because you can't get Pennzoil Ultra in that grade. Won't ever look back. Pennzoil wouldn't even suggest an oil. They don't want the liability. Thier Euro grade didn't meet manufacturers spec of SN Plus for warranty. Never go beyond 5k miles and even lesser oils will do.
I don't know why everyone jumps on their Signature Series at 4-5000 drain intervals. If you're not towing, racing, or taking advantage of it's extended drain intervals, its a waste of money. Run the test again with their OE 5W-30 and a Wix filter. (They sell Wix filters too). Then do a cost comparison. I'm new to your channel, have you changed the fluids in your diffs, transfer case and transmission yet?
The key moment is when you said you'd been servicing your fleet for 30 years without any problems using mobil 1, an oil you mentioned scored lowest on project farm... so the takeaway is that with regular maintenance, below the manyfacturers recommended drain intervals, say 3-5k, you should have trouble free miles
Yes. Based on my experience, ANY high-quality full synth changed at regular intervals will lead to very little engine wear over some pretty big miles. My Hondas at 200k sounded like brand new with no ticking nor oil usage. Too bad that "salt belt" rust did more damage than mileage or time did. I cured that problem by moving south....🙂
Ecoboost motors need oil changes religiously at 5k. Them turbo motors demand it. If you can go 4k during changes i would do that. Heck, i was raised on 3 months/ 3k miles and if i had an ecoboost id probably adhere to that rule. I drive a 2.3L ecoboost for work and two months in and barely 2k miles on the new oil it is showing signs of needing changing. Also, shell rotella oil is surprisingly good if you are trying to be cost effective but its important to check the ratings on the back of the bottle to make sure your application will work with said oil.
Used them both extensively in multiple vehicles! Amsoil is Good….but consider this; Amsoil is twice as much money. In fact you can do two oil changes with PUP vs Amsoil for the same price. Some say that Amsoil is extended change oil….but here’s the BIG difference: if you change the PUP at 5K you’ll see between 5PPM-10PPM Iron every time. Run the Amsoil 10K and you’ll see 15PPM -30PPM or higher every time. It’s up to you, have clean consistent oil or run the Amsoil with more wear? It’s funny how some Amsoil reps actually post videos saying how great the oil is after 20K + miles and the iron is through the roof. That only proves how dumb you are wearing your engine out. Never run past 10K miles, even with Amsoil. I personally run PUP in everything except my Toyota Sequioa. It’s such a pain to change the oil, I use Amsoil and run it a tad longer. BOTH are great oils. TBN and what’s left in the additive package matters not. It’s the wear metals and flash point that matters. And in that category PUP will win everytime.
There are several types of Moly, Does the test determine which type, The reason that I ask is that not all Moly's are equal, and so one may have "less" Moly because it is the better type and so doesn't need as much.
I could certainly try it but I think what this video showed was that even if you buy the absolute best stuff out there, the environment inside your engine will determine your drain interval. (dilution in my case) The Motor Oil Geek might be a better choice to review Ravenol. Thanks
I've have see that Pennzoil doesn't have as many anti wear additives because their base is superior... therefore they don't need/want as many wear additives.
You might be right...but how do we know that their "base is superior?" Just because it's made from nat gas? There is so much marketing fud and so few facts in this industry.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609I think it has to do with the liquefaction of natural gas. Much like distilled water has the fewer impurities than filtered water, liquefaction of gas results in fewer impurities than refinement of crude. But I’m not a chemist so I can’t prove it
It’s been about 7 years but I did two 5,000 mile intervals with Amsoil Signature Series and regular Pennzoil Platinum. Both 5w30. 2 intervals with each oil sampling the 2nd batch of each in my 2013 Nissan Titan. The Pennzoil in my case came back with lower wear than the Amsoil. Like you said the Amsoil would be the better choice for extended intervals.
There is not a bad oil these days. Reasonable maintenance intervals are more important than brand. Great video.
I couldn't agree more. I've used Supertech and now Kirkland for years. With no issues. Gas mileage the same as new with over 100k. Dp what makes you happy.
Thank you SIR🙏 for the information. I’m using Amsoil for 30 years no problem with my engines .
That's a lot of money over the years for such expensive oil. You must be rich.
I’m not rich I just treat my vehicles engine like human body I give them good food I believe in eating healthy. I’m a technician started 1976.
I've never used Amsoil and have over 30 years with no problems with my engines or my customer's engines, except for one customer who was having me use Amsoil and had a failure. I fairness, he was running the Amsoil too long because he believed their 25k mile interval claim.
Been running Amsoil in all my vehicles since the early 90s with zero problems. Multiple vehicles over 100K and one over 385,000. Currently my daily has just over 101,000 miles and my truck is coming up on 300,000 miles. I use the Signature Series and swap the oil every 10K. I used to use Castrol and Mobile 1. I’ll keep using the Amsoil forever, they’ve MORE than convinced me of the quality.
Ams oil loves you@@skipgumphrey9579
Love the Amsoil 🎉🎉🎉
No you don't stop it liar
Amsoil is the best hands down!
Not true,, what is true is that' Amsoil is by far,, the MOST EXPENSIVE AND ITS NOT NEEDED. ALL THE TOP TIER OILS GIVE GREAT PROTECTION AT LESS THAN HALF THE.COST. SAVE YOUR HARD EARNED 💰 🤑 💸 💲
Only if your going past 10k miles use amsoil
The point at the end you made about the fuel dilution was an excellent observation that would definitely dictate when the oil needed to be changed regardless of what brand you use nice job.
I’ve been using AmSoil for over 40 yrs. Although I’ve experienced some small amount of oil usage in a couple of my cars, the vast majority of the 40+ vehicles I’ve had used none. They always ran great. I drove my cars hard and never ever had any oil related issues. On fact, on one the engine was so clean when I had to repair a leaky valve cover, I was shocked how clean the inside of the engine was. Amazing. It’s the finest there is.
I have used synthetic oils since 1980 in 28 different cars many going well over 200,000 miles with once per year oil changes. Also, never had an engine related failure. Even Amsoil says xxxx miles or one year whichever comes first on many of their oils. So, there is no reason to over pay for synthetic motor oil. They all meet the ASE SP requirements. So any named brand synthetic should be ok. As I have used Mobil 1 Castrol Pennzoil Valvoline Quaker State without any issues in the last 45 years.
@@jefferysurratt5650👎I'd like to see you prove that. Otherwise you're just another troll trying to fuck up someone's car because you work for the vehicle manufacturer industry.
Trying to make rich assholes richer by destroying people's shit. That's how Capitalism works and paid trolls are everywhere, so prove it or zip it before you destroy someone's shit.
And put your whole real name so we know who to sue when you fuck up someone's car spreading false information.
Love the objectivity and explaining your thought process through each video.
In my case, I live in New Jersey and use Amsoil SS during the harsh winter and summer. In spring and fall, I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. My driving conditions are demanding: 10 hours every day, with 30% on highways and 70% in the city, involving a lot of stop-and-go traffic and idling.
On the other hand, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 is hard to find in New Jersey. After many months of searching, I was finally able to grab a 5-quart bottle last weekend, made in 2024. I always keep three oil change sets in my storage.
I can't find Pennzoil Ultra Platinum locally but always is available at walmart.com
Thanks for the analytic approach in the video and the interpretation of the results. My Mercedes Diesel has now reached 300k miles and is still running well. My idea has been to change once in a while the oil brand as each has its specific strengths. So I changed between Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and Castrol during the last 15 years. Now as i am driving less I stay with cheaper Pennzoil Ultra 0W40. Most important is the regular oil change including a quality oil filter.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic motor oil has always been my favorite because the product is made from natural gas.
Yes Amsoil is best but Pennzoil Ultra platinum and Valvoline Advanced are the best bang for the buck.
Amsoil is best? Over everything?
@@YouDontKnow-thatyes, according to tests Amsoil Signature Series is best. But I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for my car and Valvoline Advance for changing the oil on my families cars.
Not if you extend the drain interval.
@@YouDontKnow-thatbasically, yes. Amsoil came first and keeps raising the bar. They’ve come a long way over the last 52 or so years.
@@colinnicols5387 How do you know they are the best? Tests on Project Farm don't show they are the best.
Project Farm released another oil test today. This was interesting. Tks
I saw it. Interesting as always.
You would do well with either of these. Just remember… a quart of oil IS the cheapest mechanic you will ever pay! Do not skimp on it. I’ve been using Amsoil Signature Series for over twenty years and over half a million miles, changing it at 15,000 mile intervals with no internal engine problems or sludge accumulation.
Guessing the Calcium may have been deliberately kept down by both manufacturers over concerns over Low-Speed Pre-Ignition and to achieve the API SP designation as well as Dexos1 Gen 3 Designation.
Yeh, I heard high Calcium on direct ignition engines can contribute to pre-ignition...So, maybe the Pennzoil is better on direct injected engines?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Half the price of Amsoil anyway.
Hey! I'm new to your channel. Great video btw. I have a '14 F150 with the 5.0 coyote. I went through extensive reading, research, videos and even went so far as to talk to an Amsoil dealer that took my on a virtual tour and explained in DEPTH how it was different/better than other leading brands. Bottom line, he said, if you're using your truck as most use a car, to go to work, park for 8 hours and drive home, Amsoil is overkill. If you're going to be towing ie pulling a camper, a boat, and the rest if the time it's going to be a "daily driver", you don't need Amsoil, unless you want that extra piece of mind. When I told him I pull lawn equipment on a 22ft. open deck trailer that weighs around 5,500lbs every day, he said "the YOU NEED AMSOIL".
Finally a new video! We're already tired of waiting. Thank you!
lol what else would you like to see tackled here?
How about earlier replacement transmission oil, transfer case oil and differentials oil? Maybe it’s a good idea to do it just after brake in period? Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
@@ulisg6040 Thanks for the suggestions...transmission fluid R/R might be kind of tough without a lift, but transfer case and pumpkin jobs should be no problem. cheers
I'm an Amsoil fan, but I have to admit that it seems standard oils have finally caught up in the last ~5yrs. Amsoil being a group IV synthetic gives it an edge in extreme cold temps, but other than that you can effectively the same performance out of any good API SP full synthetic oil like the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for half the cost. For now I'll pay the extra ~$35/yr to support a US company since everything else seems to a global corp or Saudi owned.
Good point. I agree with sourcing US whenever possible.
Great video. Ive always been a HUGE fan of Amsoil. I run it in my ATV and my weekend car that gets driven hard. My daily's....I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and like you, 8k km (5k miles). I have in the past used Amsoil Signature in a Lincoln Continental V8 that I daily'ed mostly highway and would go 30k km (19k miles). Theyre both amazing oils in my opinion but Pennzoil offers the best value especially if you aint doing the extended OC intervals.
Great information!!! My last 3 Jeeps since 2016 all oil services were doneusing Amsoil Signature Series 0w20. My cost every 5,000 miles was $101.78 from a local store. Last month I went to the store and they were out of Amsoil. I went to Walmart and found Pennsoil Ultra Platinum and my total was $76.42 plus tax. After 1,200 miles I have't seen or felt any difference on my 2021 Jeep Gladaitor Rubicon. My MPG is still 16.4-16.8. I have 32,000 miles on it so I'm sticking with Pennsoil. Yanni
Sometimes I think there is a placebo effect when you change to a different brand of oil, like "it runs quieter!" Mostly this is in our heads. Yes, the Pennzoil is much easier to get. I can't get Ultra Plat in the stores near me so I order it online from walmart.com with no shipping cost. I've tried to order via Amazon but I've had two bogus orders that I had to return. (either sent me the wrong viscosity or the regular platinum) Thanks for posting your observations! cheers
Amazon sells a 3pk of this oil for around 75$ delivered.
Shipped from and sold by Amazon.
I like getting this delivered because I am lazy. 😅
Replacing the oil every 5k will keep your engine happy with any synthetic oil. $12 for a quart of oil is ridiculous.
@@benchmark3332
EXACTLY !
Been using SuperTech full synthetic and faithfully changing every 5,000 miles or so.
All is good. 😊
I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.
Thanks for the video.
I’m an Amsoil guy and I get better results in oil analysis with Amsoil XL or even OE than signature series, next I’m gonna try Pennzoil ultra platinum for first time if I get good results I don’t have any problem switching to Pennzoil.
You might have to do a double oil change to ensure that there is no Amsoil remaining in the engine / sump.
This would help to ensure that you get the most accurate data if you are collecting oil samples.
I’d suggest if that’s the case, there’s more going on than just the oil itself.
Excellent conclusions. I've been an Amsoil Industrial dealer since ~1990 but have converted to Ultra Pennzoil in passenger cars due to cost and similar UOA results over time. For those who can go 10k between changes, Amsoil can make more sense, especially with additional "bypass filtration" which I found essential for those who want 300k from their regular IC engines or 750,000 - 1,000,000 miles on their big rigs. But before moving to a 10k - 15k interval permanently (1-year is max) have Blackstone run the additional TBN (total base number) test to make sure the Amsoil detergent package is working in your situation.
Graet analysis of these oil's, I personally use Amsoil ss 5-30 and a friend of mine uses Pennzoil UP. Both are superb lubricants. Project Farm has done great nonobjective testing on oils,.
Great video, I think this video is a great example of that with the top of the line oils at 5,000 miles wear metals are super close. The number will start to change closer to 10,000 miles or longer than 6months or 350 engine hours. Around 15,000 miles is where you really start to see number differences. Just as you stated in the video. I know for my engine fuel dilution isn't a problem until 20,000 miles
10:53 Wow, excellent point and analysis of your situation here. I love to see that. I am basically in the exact same situation as you in that I feel it's advantageous to do more frequent oil changes due to a factor such as fuel dilution so I run PUP instead of something more expensive.
I agree with you 100%, very well said on the last part of your video…
I’m strict amsoil in everything I own worth every penny
Thanks Adam. Be helpful for us to know why, & share your perspective. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 well I ran snowmobiles my whole life and with manufacturer oil the variable exhaust valves (power valve) would be filthy after 500 miles or so switched to amsoil and spotless after 500 also got 11k miles on a snowmobile engine with no rebuilds also ran in all of my street bikes all my sports cars and trucks and have never had a single engine issue in the 18 years I’ve been driving and been running amsoil in sleds etc since about 2000
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 and for non anecdotal evidence it wins pretty much every shootout with oil comparisons etc
How exactly do you quantify that?
Why does he need to back up his statement for using only Amsoil? Lots of people get used to one brand and stick with it.
@@LA_Commander
I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.
Damn, 25k changes. Wow. Be interesting to see how good the oil was (via analysis) after that length of interval.
Amsoil and Wix oil filters. Just drove to Chicago and got 36 mph in the Outback. Ran junk oil it came with the first 500 miles then went to Amsoil. Changing Amsoil at 5000 would just be throwing away good oil. I change the filter at 15,000 which is easy being it’s on top of the engine. That’s the recommendation from Amsoil.
There is also all that dirty oil changing every 5K vs 25K, is it being recycled responsibly. I want the best oil for my Ford Power Boost, and I do care about the environment.
I don't drive 25K a year more like 15K, So I will only have to do 1 oil change every year with Amsoil vs 2 or 3 with any other oil.
@@ronc127 used oil is pretty efficiently recycled, from what I can tell. It's not like the old days when we'd dig a pit in the back yard and dump it. Man I shudder when I think of what was once considered "normal"
@@ronc127 I’d suggest WixXP oil filters or Amsoil filters. I use WixXP even in my lawn equipment. WixXP come in much wider variety.
Great video ,as was the Project Farmer, I started using the Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 , on.2 of my Vehicles, for the last 3 years, and I also do my oil changes around 3 K miles. 👍
BSL uses an outdated, indirect fuel dilution method. Those with GDI engines should use a lab that offers Gas Chromatography, which is a direct, and accurate ASTM method for fuel dilution. Particle Count and TBN, Oxidation, Soot tests should be done with GDI engines. Abrasive soot and fuel dilution is a major problem for GDI engines, as it causes stuck rings, oil consumption and timing chain wear. I significantly reduced my fuel dilution by running Top Tier Premium 93 octane fuel. It reduces engine knock by 90% and more complete combustion, less fuel blowby. I went with a Amsoil SS 0W-40 oil. I run 10k miles, wear is 75% less, viscosity drops but tapers off and levels off right in the middle of the SAE 30 weight range, where it should be. I change the Purolator Boss filter at 5k. At 100k miles, the engine has no varnish, sludge in the camshaft cover, pistons have very little carbon due to premium fuel, and high quality oil. My wear rate of Iron is 1 - 2ppm/1k miles. Running 87 octane and OEM 5W-30, my wear rate was 4-5ppm/1k miles, fuel dilution was over 5%. The lab I recommend is Testoil.com.
What car do you own ?
The 87 was top tier as well?
@Jamesmark72 87 is bare minimum octane to meet emission standards and prevent severe engine knock. Engine can't compensate for lower octane. I get substantial knock reduction, less fuel dilution and carbon at higher octane premium.
Okay, something i found out about Pennzoil vs the average synthetic, ( i am not sure about Amsoil base stock formula, in regards to what group oil it is ) may shed some interesting light on the oil comparison debate. Reportedly, if true, Pennzoil Platinum, since it is made from natural gas, does NOT need and or require the same additive package as many oils, precisely because , it is made from Natural gas and Not crude oil, so it ( Pennzoil ) is much cleaner/ purer, than the usual base stock oil. Now, not all Synthetics are equal for sure, in regards to Base stock refining, but, i thought it was a good point, and we all need to do our homework, in a much more complete way, than to just look at numbers after the fact. Also in my mind, i believe a sample of new oil for each brand should be tested prior to use, and it against itself and the other brand ( so 4 tests ) to have another bit of information, for comparison, well, if we wanna be really thorough . Question is, is it necessary, well who knows ?
I agree with you in principle on testing before and after, but are you gonna fork over an additional $70 for the testing? I figure a $35 test on used oil every 10k or so will tell me if anything's degrading in the engine. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 , i know right. where do the possible options end ! Lol
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that has to be treated to remove impurities) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. The treatment process produces byproducts such as ethane, propane, butanes, and pentanes. Hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, water vapor, helium and nitrogen must also be removed, but you must have faith all such undesirables are gone.
Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a "cleaner ethylene gas" to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc.
Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer--all Amsoil Dealers are considered independent contractors, not employees of Amsoil, Inc.). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next several paragraphs demonstrate a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting!
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact x $4 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
I've been using Amsoil in my 5.3 Chevy trying to prevent any lifter problems from the AFM. Currently change every May and November. Thinking about running PUP every 4K to 5K miles to save on cost. Both are excellent oils and cleaner oil is better oil, especially with the direct injection engines. I'm less worried about oil breaking down and more concerned about fuel dilution and oxidation. Like you, I'd like to get 300K.
Yes. 100%
They are both excellent oil.
Right to the point - nicely done.
I have a 2010 CTS-V wagon manual with 726,000 km Only use pennzoil ultra Platinum still runs strong
Wow...nice.
I work at a Ford dealership and seen all kind of stuff come into the shop. I tell people on ecoboost motors change the one every 3k to 4k miles and natural aspirated motors 5k to 6k miles. Me personally I use Valovine in all my vehicles. Valovine additive package is one of the best. I also use BG MOA additive.
Great video, just being honest. In today's click to buy workd Amsoil comes delivered super fast. The oil filters are superior (get the 25k ones) and I probably run 10-15k a year not as many miles like I used to but I do see very cold (snow conditions in the winter ) and 115 deg hot in the summers. So I run amsoil signature series for my f150 Ecoboost and I change the oil right before winter and right before summer so I always go into the extreme months with fresh oil. I change the filters also each time but I run the higher capacity 25k oil filters. All I am really trying to do is protect my turbos. So they last longer. Unless you are towing or harsh driving changing your oil while running signature series prior to at least 8k is just a waste of money. All the testing I have seen others post online the oil is still above acceptable levels at 20k+ I might start increasing to 3 times a year when my engine reaches 150k miles I am at 92k now. The 3 oils I would recommend is amsoil signature, Pennzoil ultra & the top of the line redline. However I wouldn't run the Pennzoil anything longer than 5-8k miles for the same conclusions you show on this video. It just doesn't have enough additive package (tbn) for it. That's why it's half the cost. If you don't want to run extended miles 8 would Pennzoil it all day. I just like amsoil I cam buy oil for all my vehicles, boats and motorcycles all on one website page have all my info logged and super easy to re order. You also need to consider amsoil buys it's base synthetics from major oil manufacturers amsoil is just a blender not a synthetic oil manufacturer. Pennzoil is also owned by Shell oil who manufacturers 100% synthetic base oil so since they are the manufacturer they can blend and sell via Pennzoil way cheaper than other oil brands. Remember amsoil is a blender meaning they buy the base oil via rail car and they buy additives and they blend there own formula into its products. The bass synthetic they must buy from a major oil company like Shell / P66 / Chevron etc. if you don't want to extend your oil changes or test your oil just run Pennzoil or use one of the mid teir amsoil. They gave 4 or 5 tiers. Dominator (race) the highest , signature series, XL, X .. something like that you guys can check. No need to run signature series of you are just dumping the oil every 5k it's just my opinions.
Agree with just about everything you've said. Cheers
Another good video. I've been a user of Pennz Ultra for some time now and have been very happy with the results. Like you, I'm sticking with the 5K change routine (also, do tire rotation at the same time). If your looking for another topic along the same lines you could do a video on oil filters (I currently use Purolator One which have an efficiency rate of 99% at 20 microns). Of course, the oil filter topic is just as opinionated as the oil topic. Thanks, again, for making your videos!
Be careful though, smaller micro does not mean it is better, I watched a video showing 20 micro filter restrict flow by a lot, use 30 micro filter you will get way more flow, imagine what 10 micro or 5 micro filter will do? there will be no flow! it makes sense to me, so I switched from 20 micro to 30 micro filter for that reason.
Any decent oil meeting the current certification will allow most any engine to go for 300k without an a failure due the oil itself. 5000 mile oil changes, decent filter, and keeping a decent air filter is part of the protocol. I've done multiple Used oil analysis using Supertech high mileage on two different vehicles, combination driving, typically 4500-5500 miles, though once i waited to 10k miles, every time the oil reports came back satisfactory. In my driving career I'd guess I'm well over 3 million miles combined, never had one engine failure for any reason, oil or otherwise.
I use Amsoil 0w30 Signature Grade Oil in my 2018 Ford Explorer 3.5 L Non Turbo w K&N Oil Filter Change oil and Rotate Tires every 5000 miles now with 75,000 miles runs like new.I will stretch out to 7500 interval with the next oil change.I live in Michigan but the vehicle is garage kept.
Thanks Ray!
More additives doesn't necessarily mean better oil, if you have a better quality base oil you need less additives, I learned this from the motor oil geek.
Exactly. It doesn't make sense comparing the anti wear additives. The comparison should be on the wear metals and they are comparable.
You are correct. Also Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra Platinum are made from natural gas GTL technology a cleaner base stock. There is no way Amsoil is worth the extra money and going over 7,500 miles between oil changes is just plain crazy.
Came up with that through my own intelligence
@@jefferysurratt5650 why is going over 7500 miles crazy?
Pennzoil uses a tri-moly that is equal to 3 times the moly. Right now Shell owns the Pennzoil brand and is offering a $25 rebate on 2 - 5qt jugs or 10 qts., good thru Sept 2024.That brings the cost down to $2.30 per qt. This is for in store purchase at Walmart so it is the Pennzoil Platinum @ $23.92 for 5qt jug. I do 6,000 to 7,500 oci and will be upgrading to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum @ $29.44 per 5qt jug, once I use up the Pennzoil Platinum
Excellent review, thank you. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for my money.
ditto!
Very precise and most importantly very conclusive analysis.
Both Pennzoil & Amsoil make good products; I would be happy to run either in my car.
Those running turbos or superchargers may want to consider an air-oil-separator or catch can system to augment the PCV system and keep oil out of the intake tracts.
More over, taking time to learn about and service your engine oil is a lot more than some drivers can say... coming from a former tech with over 100 sludge motors on the books. Had one come in with over 70k miles on the factory oil before it tossed a rod.
Change it regularly and use whichever brand you're most comfortable with.
Agree 100% thanks
I love Amsoil and will always use Amsoil but I do like seeing if I need a good oil in a pinch the get the pennzoil ultra platinum
Wow. Grat video. Here's my two cents. People use what has worked for them in the past. Having said that....Amsoil is the best. I would use It if i were towing. Other than that there is no benefit if you performing regular oil changes.
Thanks Ron!
One thing that wasn’t mentioned is that Amsoil Signature Series oil also helps protect the turbos in the Eco Boost engines, I’m not sure if Pennzoil does because I haven’t looked into it but dealing with Amsoil I know that oil does
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is with GTL base oil which has boiling point over 500F. It's very close to Amsoil signature series PAO base oil, both are great for turbocharged engine from base oil point of view.
For one thing Amsoil is marketed as an extended life oil whereas Pennzoil is not so it would make sense that Amsoil may have slightly more antiwear additives.
I was waiting for a video like this I use this in my truck I have the same motor as you as well thankyou
I have a 21 PowerBoost and I have been using Motorcraft Full Synthetic oil from day 1. I got my used oil analysis results and I would have to say I am impressed! Metal wear numbers are inline or better than what are in this video. Sticking with Motorcraft.
On the Ecoboost engines, especially the first gen, Ford released a bulletin for the correct oil. It needs to be the oil spec that the Pezoil Ultra Platinum is. This is to reduce the carbon build-up on the intake valves from the oil vapors entering from the pvc. Ford Tech Makuloco has a video also showing the bulletin from Ford. I think Castrol also makes oil now with that spec. This is the whole reason i change my own oil. You never know what they put in.
Agree! The more Calcium in the oil the better chance of LSPI on Direct Injected Engines. The two oils are both excellent products although the Pennzoil is a much better value.
@@Duchydogyou mean less calcium
My lab results on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost with over 50,000 mies has lower metal counts (aluminum 4. Chromium 0. Iron 7. Cooper 3) with 5000 miles on the oil. In Texas heat. Running Valvoline Premium Full Sys, under $30 at Walmart for 5 quarts. Results from Blackstone.
I have gone through basically the same situation and I need to do the 5000 or less than 5000 drain interval so I also agree that Pennzoil ultra platinum is the best!!
Lower calcium levels are better for direct injection engines, that is one of the requirements for meeting API SP. High levels of calcium in oil can lead to low speed pre-detonation. Really need a virgin oil sample showing molybdenum levels. Possible since penzoil was run first, the engine used up "absorbed" the molybdenum.
Nice. You should be doing these reviews, not me. 🙂
Excellent video
Like Amsoil and Penzoil since Project Farm results long time ago. I watch a lot of Eben in amsoil channel. But for me is cheaper and easier to get Penzoil at Walmart or Autozone. Sometimes just seeing the oil in the shelf is more better for me than ordering and waiting for it to come. But if I made a choice of better oil, we'll I will stick to Amsoil #1.
I'm not sure if it was considered, but the detergent /cleanliness data isn't tested. Wear/reliability is correlated with engine cleanliness. For any engines I have seen opened up with Amsoil SS, it has been sparking silver. For Pennzoil, I sometimes do come across slight varnish ....although uncertain if the life of the engine was exclusively on Pennzoil ultra.
I saw another video on this comparison. The gentleman mentioned that pennzoil ultra platinum is a superior base oil due to the natural gas to liquid formulation. That means it needs less additives to achieve anti wear. I think the oils are virtually equal based on anti wear results. Amsoil needs a bit more additives to get there at 2x the cost.
Amsoil also maintained it's viscosity notably better than PUP so it's not just a case of using more additives, they use some of the best base oils as well. Wish we could see the oxidation values from speediagnostix to get a better idea of how it's holding up at this OCI. Think the takeaway here is that PUP is a great value alternative to Amsoil, but I wouldn't call it better based solely on this.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that has to be treated to remove impurities) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. The treatment process produces byproducts such as ethane, propane, butanes, and pentanes. Hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, water vapor, helium and nitrogen must also be removed, but you must have faith all such undesirables are gone.
Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a "cleaner ethylene gas" to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc.
Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer--all Amsoil Dealers are considered independent contractors, not employees of Amsoil, Inc.). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next several paragraphs demonstrate a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting!
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact x $4 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
Mugenizer would save $100.92 over the course of 5,000 miles (by using Amsoil versus Pennzoil), so the end result would be Amsoil is cheaper than Pennzoil.
Well all I can say is my grandpa had Jeep Duli two doors with over 800,000 Miles
And the only oil he used was Pennzoil.
Believe it or not this car is still moving forward.
Good info. I am picking up a new f150 3.5l in a few days . At what point should I switch to full synthetic oil? I usually do my first oil change at 1000 miles next at 3000 miles then keep my oil changes under 5000 miles after that. Usually have the dealer do the first oil change because it's free . I was considering the full synthetic at around 3000 miles will it be ok? Thanks keep up the good work .
Don’t overlook changing differential & ATF too as they breakin much like the engine.
I think the old myth was that you don't want to use synth oil for breakin because it's "too slippery" and won't allow the engine to properly break in. I believe that myth has been disproved. I went 1000 miles on my first crankcase and have changed it at 4k - 5k every time since. Don't overthink it, you're on the right path.
I went with 1.5 k, 5k and 10k initial oil changes on my F150. Went with full synthetic right away. At 12 k now and at 5k OCI starting at 10k. Easy to remember 10, 15, 20 and so on
Very well done analysis!
You got it right. If you change your oil sooner. no need to pay extra. Put the extra money towards a good oil filter.
My guess for the Pennzoil having less antiwear additives is because the base oil is more pure than other synthetic oils. I will continue to keep using Platinum and Ultra Platinum in all my vehicles. Keeps my oil changes cheaper while still having similar results of what Amsoil offers.
Right on. Excellent presentation.
I will go for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30 for oil change intervale between 3000-5000 miles. It's obvious the PUP has lower Calcium and magnesium detergent which means less competition with friction modifier molybdenum and lower coefficient of friction. In theory, PUP has better driving performance if kept within 5000 miles drian interval. The oil viscosity dropped right after fill as used oil residue remains in engine. Also viscosity further reduces quicker after 7000 miles under mild driving condition. It will impact fuel mileage and driving performance. The viscosity eventually increases due to suspended soot, contaminations and oxidation but lubricity is already poor. The UOA may still show low wear level but driving performance and fuel economy will not be optimum. Long drain interval is never a good idea if you are not frequently monitor by used oil analysis. By the way, the used oil oxidation number compare to virgin oil oxidation number is more important than TBN changes.
What oil filter are you using. I use either Purolator boss or fram endurance.
avoid purolator if you care.....they randomly still have torn media despite having great build "on paper". Use OEM, Mobil 1, Amsoil, or like you said Fram Endurance.
Where did you find this information or video explaining this ?
@@paintballhallic it’s on bobistheoilguy forums
Good information. In my opinion I think no matter which oil you choose you would get good protection for your motor. One other factor would be the oil filter. Using a cheap oil filter with good oil are you really getting good protection. So I think the type of oil filter would play in this testing. At the end of the day. Buying the best oil and filter even if it cost a few dollars more is still cheaper than replacing or repairing a whole engine. “. Cheap insurance “.
agreed!
I go 8000kms/5000 miles.Been using Mobil 1 5 30 full synthetic and Ford filter.I've been interested in the 2 oils you tested.I hear Mobil 1 is at the lower end of the better oils ,but I have always had good result with it.
Same here, 30 years of great results with Mobil 1.
I'm sure Amsoil is good but, I used it once and it shot my oil pressure way too high for me to continue with it. The four vehicles at my home use either Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have had nothing but, great results.
Thanks Rob
Boron also has antiwear properties depending on how it’s used. In fact it works better than molybdenum. That’s why as ZDDP levels are decreasing, most brands are increasing their levels of boron.
Thanks Tyler!
I been using ultra platinum and amsoil but ultra platinum is the winner for me
amsoil
For me, i really like PUP and Valvoline HM Max life in my 2014 3.5L EB with 5K intervals. However, lately i now change the oil at 3,500. Tend to go with Valvoline Advanced or the reg. Penn Plat. Clean oil is always a good choice...especially with the Ecoboost engines.
Have 306,000 miles on a 2000 Silverado 5.3 using valvoline synthetic which didn't finish well in PF testing, but changing at every 3,000 miles probably makes up the difference and changing filter probably helps keep the sludge level lower.
So I think what Steve c. Is saying, just CHANGE YOUR OIL sooner than later and most vehicles will go the long haul, and always remember TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR VEHICLE AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU !!! What ever oil you choose. Peace out . And always be kind .
You have done 100 oil changes on that truck bro.
Great video! Which oil did you decide to use? One factor you left out is the viscosity. Both oils thinned a bit, but Amsoil was still in grade, but Pennzoil dropped down to the next thinner grade, with fewer miles. I have gone 10 to 12,000 miles with Amsoil for 27 years with zero problems, one minivan with 287,000 miles, ran excellent with one quart every 5,000 miles and no smoke at all!
current crankcase is amsoil but I'm not married to it. I don't think the dilution has anything to do with the oil per se, but probably more to do with actual types of miles driven, etc. I mean, one oil's not going to fend off dilution any better than the next, given a specific viscosity. Glad to hear of your experience with the Amsoil. cheers...
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Yes agreed. The fuel dilution could be caused by an engine management or some other problem as well. It’s getting into the crankcase somehow.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I was reading a review earlier pertaining to this video, where he claims that Blackstone Labs inaccurately assesses fuel dilution due to their lack of sophisticated equipment. I gather that Oil Analyzer's has such sophisticated equipment, so you may want to give a try?
@@jimn.9990 Thanks Jim, might be worth a shot to see if I get a different result.
Amsoil is always the best! Pennzoil a close second. Project far did this years back
What do you think about oil additives like slick 50?
Honestly I didn't even know that they were still around. I remember using that stuff 30+ years ago but not sure if it did any good or not.
So test test established the amsoil wins the comparison test. Penzoil is a superior oil also. The extra cost of the amsoil to me is not worth it as the penzoil will get you to the 300,000 mile mark at about half the cost. Most of us here don’t have the connections to get the deep discounts needed to justify using the higher priced oil. You are very good at the way you present your videos.
Thanks Howard!
You priced individual quarts for AMSOIL and 5qt value jug for Pennzoil. AMSOIL prices out to $8.80/quart and Pennzoil ultra actually priced out at $5.89/ qt. I’ve used both of these oils. They are the best!! I run Amsoil in my truck and Pennzoil ultra in my car.
Nope, Rob. Priced Amsoil from gallon jugs, and I had the "member" price. Great stuff, but perhaps overkill for my needs. Currently running the Pz UP. cheers
A way to get an indication of a motor oils base oil content is to look up the oil brand msds. Recently I looked up Rotella’s T6 synthetic oil and it said “hydro treated heavy parafinic, petroleum distillates”, which means group 3 synthetic oil from petroleum. Red Line oil msds says Esters and other chemical names, not petroleum.
I know the comment from Blackstone said don't worry about it but did the viscosity shear out of range for both oils on relatively low intervals due to the short trip/fuel dilution issue brought up?
If so I think that supports a 4k-5k interval. The oil might have enough additives to go longer but the other oil properties aren't there for it.
The fuel dilution is the big thing for me which supports a smaller drain interval, otherwise a 5k drain would be a waste of money with these oils. cheers..
If you factor in the fuel economy increase that the Amsoil provides, it's almost actually free over the drain interval.
Interesting. I did not notice any different mpg increase during my amsoil intervals. One brand of oil is not more "slipperier" than the next.
AM SOIL is "the best" in most every test, but unless you're racing or towing heavy daily, just go with PZ or VL.
Amsoil 0w-16 8.99qt,good stuff.Purolator one filters 5k oil changes,on my Toyota hybrids.
2005 Honda Element owner (original engine, no issues, original Trans, No issues) 358,000 miles and going strong. Oil changed every 5,000-7,000 miles. Amsoil= Not worth double the cost. Nobody uses their vehicles to "extreme-Extremes". Pennzoil Ultra= 1/2 the cost = twice as many changes (better). I agree that fuel dilution on most modern vehicles is a problem. I cannot go 8,000 miles on a change nor would I. I'll stick to Pennzoil. Thanks.
I have to say that I used Mobil 1 Syn for 30 years in all kinds of Sportscars including multiple M3s and NEVER had an issue. I would submit that any Synthetic from a major manufacturer will do a great job in 2024 as long as you change it regularly...I primarily use Pennzoil Ultra Syn now in my F150; BMW Syn in my M340, but these oils today FAR exceed requirements for just about any street use. When do you remember anyone saying "My engine failed because I chose the wrong brand synthetic oil???
That was an exceptionally good video Thanks.
Is it possible you can do the same test with Red-Line oil too? I'm a firm believer in Red-line oil and IMO, is one of the best oil brands out there. If you can, PLEASE make sure the Red-Line oil you pick for testing is the equivalent to Amsoil, as Red-Line offers few different types of oil.
Thanks for your comments, but there are probably some channels that have far more background for testing oil than I do. cheers
I use the Walmart brand and I have over 300,000 mi on my 2009 Grand Cherokee
Both great oils with only price being the difference people chose. I use Amsoil 0W30 because you can't get Pennzoil Ultra in that grade. Won't ever look back. Pennzoil wouldn't even suggest an oil. They don't want the liability. Thier Euro grade didn't meet manufacturers spec of SN Plus for warranty. Never go beyond 5k miles and even lesser oils will do.
I don't know why everyone jumps on their Signature Series at 4-5000 drain intervals. If you're not towing, racing, or taking advantage of it's extended drain intervals, its a waste of money.
Run the test again with their OE 5W-30 and a Wix filter. (They sell Wix filters too). Then do a cost comparison.
I'm new to your channel, have you changed the fluids in your diffs, transfer case and transmission yet?
Thanks. Probably will be doing diff & xfer case at 30k. Not going to attempt a fluid/filter change in a 10R80 without a lift. cheers
PUP is a cleaner base oil from NG and doesn't need the same amount of ADD package as other oils. -- The Motor Oil Geek
The key moment is when you said you'd been servicing your fleet for 30 years without any problems using mobil 1, an oil you mentioned scored lowest on project farm... so the takeaway is that with regular maintenance, below the manyfacturers recommended drain intervals, say 3-5k, you should have trouble free miles
Yes. Based on my experience, ANY high-quality full synth changed at regular intervals will lead to very little engine wear over some pretty big miles. My Hondas at 200k sounded like brand new with no ticking nor oil usage. Too bad that "salt belt" rust did more damage than mileage or time did. I cured that problem by moving south....🙂
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 oh my other question is do you ever switch to high mileage oil? They have some great formulations in the high mileage variety
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 do you use high mileage at a certain point?
Ecoboost motors need oil changes religiously at 5k. Them turbo motors demand it. If you can go 4k during changes i would do that. Heck, i was raised on 3 months/ 3k miles and if i had an ecoboost id probably adhere to that rule. I drive a 2.3L ecoboost for work and two months in and barely 2k miles on the new oil it is showing signs of needing changing. Also, shell rotella oil is surprisingly good if you are trying to be cost effective but its important to check the ratings on the back of the bottle to make sure your application will work with said oil.
Ultra platinum is the best bang for your buck hands down.
What filter with pennzoil??
I just bought a case of OEM motocraft filters from amazon a couple of years back. That's the way to go.
Used them both extensively in multiple vehicles! Amsoil is Good….but consider this; Amsoil is twice as much money. In fact you can do two oil changes with PUP vs Amsoil for the same price. Some say that Amsoil is extended change oil….but here’s the BIG difference: if you change the PUP at 5K you’ll see between 5PPM-10PPM Iron every time. Run the Amsoil 10K and you’ll see 15PPM -30PPM or higher every time. It’s up to you, have clean consistent oil or run the Amsoil with more wear? It’s funny how some Amsoil reps actually post videos saying how great the oil is after 20K + miles and the iron is through the roof. That only proves how dumb you are wearing your engine out. Never run past 10K miles, even with Amsoil. I personally run PUP in everything except my Toyota Sequioa. It’s such a pain to change the oil, I use Amsoil and run it a tad longer. BOTH are great oils. TBN and what’s left in the additive package matters not. It’s the wear metals and flash point that matters. And in that category PUP will win everytime.
Agreed. Can't run drain intervals past 5k due to dilution, so no benefit to me to use an oil which is meant for extended intervals. cheers
Reduced calcium (below 1300) is actually recommended for "direct injection" engines, which are becoming more common every year.
There are several types of Moly,
Does the test determine which type,
The reason that I ask is that not all Moly's are equal, and so one may have "less" Moly because it is the better type and so doesn't need as much.
No idea brother. Would be a great question for Blackstone Labs. I can barely pronounce molybdenum. cheers
Can You try Ravenol ?
I could certainly try it but I think what this video showed was that even if you buy the absolute best stuff out there, the environment inside your engine will determine your drain interval. (dilution in my case) The Motor Oil Geek might be a better choice to review Ravenol. Thanks
@fixorrepairdiy4609 I used to use the previous version of signature series.
I use Ravenol now .
I've have see that Pennzoil doesn't have as many anti wear additives because their base is superior... therefore they don't need/want as many wear additives.
You might be right...but how do we know that their "base is superior?" Just because it's made from nat gas? There is so much marketing fud and so few facts in this industry.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609I think it has to do with the liquefaction of natural gas. Much like distilled water has the fewer impurities than filtered water, liquefaction of gas results in fewer impurities than refinement of crude. But I’m not a chemist so I can’t prove it