[TESTED] Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner - DOES IT WORK??
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2020
- There are lots of unfounded comments circulating about whether or not Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner works. So I bought a can of the stuff and did some in-depth testing - including a before and after performance test, and a FULL removal of the manifold to see how clean it was after using this product!
5000km later, I did a follow-up video to see how well it works on a fairly clean engine - check it out! • [FOLLOW-UP] Liqui-Moly...
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Thanks, this is the sort of info that is helpful! Appreciate the effort and the thoroughness you've gone to!
Glad it was helpful! Stay tuned for the follow-up!
Works really well on clean manifolds. 😂
That was awesome. You wouldn’t believe how many questions you just answered. Nobody to date has done anything like this. Well done. Excellent video. As a double hit to reduction in cross sectional area, you also increase the effective surface roughness due ot the spot which has another profound effect on pressure losses along hahah intake, further restricting flow.
Thanks for your feedback Mike! Yes the main reason I did this was because all the data I could find seemed to be subjective, which is always risky. I couldn't find a thorough test with actual data to go on. Glad it was helpful for you, and thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks for making this! Saved me money and time.
Glad it helped! Please subscribe in case a future video is just as useful!
Excellent quality video answered literarly all questions!
Glad it was helpful! Please share on your socials! 👍
Thanks so much for explaining the amount of air loss I didn’t realise the ECU controlled the amount of air mixture thanks again
No problems mate, I agree it's not what you'd usually think from a 'typical' old-school turbo setup (which modern diesels aren't!) and had me puzzled for a bit!
Very useful video, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Good video pal. You deserve more subs.
Thanks Colin, I appreciate your support! Hopefully the subs will come in over time!
Cheers,
Greg
Amazing video, top content👌🏼 helps me a lot.
Glad it was helpful, stay subscribed as I have more diesel intake cleaner content coming!
Good video mate!
Thanks!
fantastic video thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your feedback!
Solid video mate !
Glad you enjoyed it! Please share it on your socials with others who might find it interesting - and be sure to check out the 5000km follow-up ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video mate.
Thanks mate, hope it was helpful!
Great video! Thanks so much for taking measurements and explaining the difference in volume of airflow before and after. Exactly what I was looking for!
My pleasure mate, glad it was helpful! Please subscribe to help the channel bring similar content!
Good study pal...
Respect your hard work and patience.
Planning to use it on VW 1.6 TDI.
My pleasure mate, glad it was helpful! Hope you're happy with the results it gives you!
@@TheMusingGreg Have used on my friends car now. The results were great, guess the results are more noticeable from a car with clogged intake/EGR...
Will be using the same on my car share the results. At present waiting for few parts replacement mate.
But for sure this a very simple and cost effective DIY. Thanks for giving the confidence in using such products in a simple language.
I had my 2014 pajero cleaned and put a catch can on..... Good vid...
Thanks Richard. The catch can video's in the works so stay tuned and subbed!
Thanks for that mate
No worries at all! Stay subbed as I've got some related content on its way
Great video, finally a proper video that shows before and after looking forward to follow up video. I think it will be a product for the next video, if you have never cleaned your engine it will need striping down, no spray or a man in a van coming round and giving your car a hydrogen clean will clean it properly.
Thanks for watching and commenting Mr Carpcatcher, glad it was helpful! Yes even if the mechanics' chemical cleaning works, it still means all that gunk is going through the combustion chamber - yuk! Yes I'm working on the follow-up video at the moment and it's looking interesting for sure! Stay tuned!
Liquimoly is World class product.
Using Intake Manifold Cleaner
As early as possible
( After initial 40,000 Km)
Will definitely improve to clean up carbon build-up
Thanks & Regards
-Prasad Red'dy
I'm sure that's correct - if you get onto it early and keep the manifold clean I'm sure it will do well. Check out the follow-up video where I look at its usefulness for maintaining a clean manifold if you haven't already - ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html
What a bloody fantastic and thorough test of the product. I wish someone from Liqui-Moly reaches out to you and supports you testing again instead of hiding. I read almost all of the comments below but nobody has asked how you got the intake manifold so clean as you showed??? Could you let us know either here or in another video? I am now going to watch the follow up video.
Hi mate, glad you found it helpful! I doubt Liqui-Moly even knows this video exists, but it's not why I did it.
Good question about the manifold - I actually shot some footage of the removal and reinstallation process but it didn't come out as well as I had hoped so I didn't do anything with it. However I followed the process shown by Mr Pajero on Facebook to get the manifold off which shows the process pretty well. Once it was removed, I did the cleaning with more Liqui-Moly, oven cleaner, degreaser and and high pressure water in varying orders. The Liqui-Moly seemed to work best followed by the high pressure water, but it's an expensive way of doing it, you can probably use oven cleaner if you let it soak in and take your time getting rid of it. Then the high pressure water. There was also a fair bit of scrubbing to get rid of every last skerrick of gunk.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Greg
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks Greg and yes it does help a lot as it seems doable even for someone like me. I haven't bought a car yet as I've narrowed it now down to Pajero or Patrol. I'm looking at how easy the proper big job you did takes for both cars to help with the decision. I'm planning a fully Oz lap and actual off road 4x4 is not what I'm interested in, purely touring and camping and from what I hear the Pajero is like driving around in a large car as opposed to a big 4x4. I'll join Facebook again and look for that guy to follow the instructions. Thanks again Greg.
Hi mate, that is exactly why we bought a Pajero. We aren't avid 4WD'ers and bought the Pajero for a big lap. It's been great towing a 2.5T 17ft caravan but has done some light to moderate 4WD'ing and has done fine for us. I can't comment either way on the Patrol as I've never owned one, but we weren't looking for something enormous so for us it was initially a Prado, but when we started looking into it it sounded as though the Pajero was a very under-rated 4WD, it was certainly better value than the Prado, and just different, not necessarily better or worse.
I would however not base your decision too heavily on the ease of cleaning the manifold. It's a very infrequently done job and I think there are probably bigger factors to consider which will make a bigger difference to either vehicle's suitability for you. The job is doable in a day on the Pajero if you get all the stuff you need in advance, and I would expect the Patrol would be similar, so I don't think it would be a deciding factor. As I showed in the first Liqui-Moly video it didn't make any difference to the way the vehicle behaved. I feel better having done it and the lower boost for same power is good too. I reckon other things like towing capacity, reliability, ease of use, just how you feel driving each of them, controls etc are probably going to make a bigger difference.
Cheers,
Greg
@@TheMusingGreg Wow Greg, thank you for the thoughful and very practical response and advice. I think you are right, I'm going to go drive each one first and then make my decision instead of going off others reviews and opinions which often can be bias to a brand.
I love your videos, keep them coming mate and will watch more of your older ones and comment etc for algorithm.
Cheers mate I appreciate it! Yep definitely test them both out yourself, there's value in understanding common faults or foibles, but there will probably be all sorts of little things that matter to you that don't to others, and vice versa, and these you can only find out by taking them for a spin.
Thanks for doing this video, I've ordered this stuff for my Mercedes a class as i got a historic fault code for intake manifold swirl flap movement which is most likely due to carbon build up, so if this can improve or even delay having to remove the manifold(4 hours labour) for a while I'll be happy.
No worries hope it helps! You're likely right as to the cause of the swirl flap issue if you're checked the actuator is working and you have vacuum. That said if it's old gunk this product still may not remove enough to get it working. I would recommend spraying a good amount of the product in and then turning the engine off for a while to give it time to soak into the carbon, and then see if you can carefully move the swirl flap actuator by hand to get it moving. Good luck!
What a fantastic video, thank you. This product like so many "wonder cans" that claim to clean your engine always just seem so unrealistic. Anyone who has ever cleaned a used BBQ grill can tell you that rinsing it under water with the detergent isn't going to get the job done. Now imagine a spray/additive that gets fractions of a second, in a highly diluted air/fuel mix form trying to wash away heavily cooked and caked, sticky, sooty residue. It's just simply not going to happen, not to any great degree. The biggest thing I took away from your video was about the performance remaining unchanged. Of course it makes obvious sense, but only now that I think about it, and that is thanks to you.
My pleasure mate! It sounds like you've followed the logic and thought things through yourself, which is a good way to make sensible decisions! You're quite right that the brief time the product has on the gunk isn't long to do any serious cleaning. Good luck!
I was gunna order some for my 2013 jetta tdi and use it every oil change as preventative, however after watching I think it might be better just to remove the intake piping and manifold and clean it manually .
I would completely agree Spencer! Pull the manifold off and clean it out properly, and then use something like this as a maintenance product if you think a clean intake's worthwhile. I'd expect the Jetta uses a ECU-controlled wastegate so you may not see much in the way of performance or economy improvements though.
Top class
Thanks mate glad you liked it!
Fitting a catch can results in dry not oily carbon buildup. It’d be interesting to see how it works on that rather than the degreasing job being asked of it here. Good video cheers
Thanks Garth. I've got the catch can fitted now and have done some testing on this already but still have some data to collect, so stay subscribed for the video on that!
I bought a new Pajero - same model as yours really , from new I fitted a provent 200 filtered catch can , ecu remap including turn off the egr completely , so no oil and no soot entering my manifold , yes egr is goood for environment, but better emissions through less fuel use over the life of the engine as a whole . It does have DPF which will clean exhaust emissions up anyway .
Hi Steve, thanks for your comment. Yes a catch can from new is great if you have that option, and so long as Mitsubishi doesn't threaten to void your warranty by fitting one! I have a friend with a Triton who was told by Mitsubishi that fitting a catch can would void the warranty, so he's having to wait until the warranty expires to fit his. I'll be interested to see what difference a catch can makes when I fit one to mine, now I know how much gunk to expect after 5000 and 15000kms. But I've got some more additive tests to do before then!
Cheers,
Greg
As a mechanic is new vehicles I’ll get away with it , servicing my own car from new . If there was an issue I’ll return to standard and send it in . The provent 200 has an effective pressure valve should the filter become blocked or other issue . I can’t stand filthy intakes , even just a light dusting bugs me , my cars and engines are kept immaculate, both outside and inside . But your video is great to see what I’m trying to prevent .
@@exploringsydneyandbeyond9059 Definitely. There's no good reason for MM to take that position on a catch can with a properly functioning pressure relief valve. It's probably just easier for them to outlaw everything!
Hope you took those swirl flaps out before the screws go through the engine great video, thanks for sharing
Hi Chip, no I didn't! When I had it off I'd only had the vehicle for a few months, knew little about them and was (and still am) on a road trip so I wasn't about to start fiddling around. But I might pull them off if I ever remove the manifold again!
@@TheMusingGreg i know the 4jj1 engine in the dmax is bad for sucking the screws. Three screws out of eight on mine were not even finger tight. Cheaper then an engine rebuild 👍
Oh wow! I don't recall mine being loose at all, I think I checked a couple when I was going to remove them for cleaning and found they were very hard to remove so didn't go any further.
I agree
Cheers!
Ive used this product a few times.
Its designed for use with every service as a preventative or to clean light build up.
If its caked on from years of driving, this aint going to do much. No spray will.
Thanks for the comment mate. That's more likemy experience and what I expected, it's just that the manufacturer doesn't claim it to only be useful if used regularly. They say it can clean a dirty manifold, or maybe your might be two cans. In my experience you'd probably need to be using it every 5000km to keep it fairly clean as it doesn't remove all that much build-up
I would recommend full removal and clean of manifold if you haven’t done previously at 200,000km’s, actually if you have only done 100,000km’s I would also recommend the removal and clean. If you start with a clean intake, I believe regular 5000km use of the product would be beneficial. The example in the clip is like taking a sun damaged paint job to a car wash and thinking a wash and wax will restore it. I appreciate and respect the video, it does highlight the fact that 200,000km’s of EGR induced gunk will not be fixed with a $20 aerosol product.
Thanks for the comment mate, yes this was very much my assumption, and as I mentioned at the beginning it's what many others assumed too. But I wanted to actually test it to find out for sure - this channel is all about testing and finding factual answers so people don't have to rely on assumptions. You might like to check out the 5000km follow-up video which answers the question of whether or not it's suitable for maintenance cleans.
Glad you found it helpful!
Cheers,
Greg
I've sprayed 2/3 of a can of brake cleaner directly onto my clogged diesel EGR valve and it removed very little of the 1/4 inch thick goop. The only thing that it really effective is scraping, or long period soaking in a solvent.
I wouldn't be spraying anything into the engine which isn't deemed safe for an EGR or DPF. Brake parts cleaner isn't designed for that job so I wouldn't personally be using it, and in any case I wouldn't be too surprised if it wasn't as effective as a purpose-built product.
Great vid and method. I'm always scared of these products incase carbon chunks break off and get stuck in the valve throat. A damn fine result from your mechanical cleaning though and a fair amount of crud in the bucket; I once did my egr valve and I looked like I'd spent a day down a coal mine.
Some people have expressed concern about that, but in my experience I don't think it's something that's going to happen with this product. It dissolves the gunk from the surface so it comes off bit by bit in the solvent, it doesn't actually get underneath the gunk and pull big chunks off.
Great video. Thanks. Did you notice any fuel efficiency improvements?
Glad you enjoyed it mate! No I didn't notice any fuel efficiency improvements either, which probably isn't surprising given boost from a turbo is basically free power so the lower boost doesn't reduce engine load at all. This would probably be different if you had a supercharger as that's driven by the engine and costs engine power to create boost.
@@TheMusingGreg Did mine after watching your video because I already had a can of the stuff. I have a catch can, so the upper intake was already quite clean...it got it looking spic'n'span but it wouldn't have made any real difference performance wise. Not a bad parts cleaner around the engine bay, if used carefully 😄...expensive for that tho
@@CoroDan sounds good! Do you also have an EGR block or modification? I've found even with the catch can that I still get carbon build-up from the EGR circuit (see the Liqui-Mily vs Revive video on that one).
@@TheMusingGreg Nope otherwise standard. I bought it at 130k - 178k on it now. Previous owner may have had it professionally cleaned ... I was surprised at the lack of carbon when I took the intake tube off.
You're probably right in that case. Mine had 200,000 when I did this, I don't know if it had been cleaned before I got it but I did check a friend's vehicle at 80k who had it from new and it was a lot more clogged than mine was at 200.
06 -011 Ranger BT50 3.0ltr Results at 96000km
A better running engine requiring less throttle pedal input . Some throttle response returned . Minor fuel economy return . Before 2000km later fitted catch can and EGR blanking . FUEL ECONOMY STABILIZED At road speed of 100km/hr =10lts per 100km consumption . Variation was 1.5 lts per 100km down to under .5 ltr per 100km
Thanks for sharing!
The trick with these products is to start using them early in the life of an engine. Just not possible for that spray to remove that much carbon in a such a high km engine. I used a can at every service and intake remains reasonable clean and since adding a Provent oil catch can it remains much cleaner.
I tried this with my previous vehicle at 160000 km and the spray did very little as well, had to remove and clean. Then used spray every service and intake didn't build up like that again until i sold it at 265000 km. I checked with a boroscope.
Thanks for the comment Nathan. What you've said is what's been floating around on the internet for a while now, and having done the testing, I agree. To be honest, it's the outcome I thought most likely before I did the test too. But it's all just been theories and ideas and suppositions with no data to back it up, so I wanted to test those theories. Glad to hear your testing showed similar results!
Cheers,
Greg
I really appreciate your video and the details of your finding. I think I'm gonna remove the manifold and clean it manually instead.
I'm surprised to not see any difference in performance, maybe in acceleration pulls the difference is minimal, however in fuel consumption I think you'd see some improvement. I would also agree that perhaps slight restriction in the air intake is insignificant compared to the resistance in other parts of the engine, which is why the results is kinda moot.
I don't know which kind of wastegate my Dmax uses. But if the engine needs lower boost, that should reduce wear on the turbo right?
Hi mate,
Thanks for the feedback! Yes I think removing the manifold for cleaning is definitely the best option, especially if it's a few years old and never been done.
I was similarly surprised there was no (measurable) difference in performance or economy, however I explained towards the end of the video why I think that was. Turbos basically produce free power (heat and pumping losses being the only negatives), so it costs the engine nothing in power or economy to increase boost pressure to maintain the required amount of airflow .So the engine's still getting the same amount of air as before which is why it behaves as before. If it was a supercharged engine it may be a different story.
The lower boost pressure would certainly be expected to extend the lifespan of the turbo and related intake components, so it's good for your engine; but it doesn't seem to touch the key metrics of power and economy.
I would expect most modern turbo diesels, including your Dmax, would be using the ECU to control the boost, be it via a wastegate or a Variable Geometry Turbo. Either way it's the same result though, where the ECU calls the shots on boost.
Cheers,
Greg
@@TheMusingGreg Thank you for the helpful reply. I would like to share about Liqui Moly Diesel Purge, that has clearly helped with nozzle and fuel delivery problems I've experienced before.
That stuff works, although not entirely as I suspect I still have injector nozzle issue. It eliminated the knocking which I had before. Still after some time the black smoke at initial normal acceleration came back. It's more than a year since and I'm gonna purge again.
@@reelyology Yes, injector cleaning products can potentially be helpful, although my injectors have never been blocked enough to test.
Just to be clear for other readers, Diesel Purge in this comment (which is added to the fuel system) is a completely different product to the Diesel Intake Cleaner (which is sprayed into the air intake) which is the subject of this video. An intake cleaner wouldn't be expected to clean dirty injectors.
Cheers,
Greg
Unfortunately most cleaning products need mechanical help as well. eg scraping or brushing. That goes for most mild cleaners with one exception...oven cleaner. It's ok on it's own because its so caustic.
The closer to the combustion chamber, the harder the carbon build up will be, especially on the valves and no chemical cleaner will help. A wire buff or scraping was the only way to remove truly burnt on carbon.
I think having the engine running in this video was really a waste of cleaner, most of the spray would have been sucked away before doing anything. When it comes to cleaning oily residue kerosene is best, letting it soak for 15 minutes before washing it off. The Liqui-Moly could have been slightly more effective if it sat on the surface for a while, but the manufacturer obviously said start the engine to use their product.
This was a great test, as are all your tests. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
P:S
I'm not surprised with your road test results. Forced induction is controlled electronically as you said and the turbo has some freeboard to make up for inefficiencies like dirty manifolds or aircleaners.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments mate, I appreciate it and glad you're enjoying the content. Yeah I agree it seems a waste to have most of the product burned up but as we agree it's just following the manufacturer's recommendations. I would prefer to spray it on every surface of the manifold and soak in but obviously there's no way to get the product right through to the engine unless it's running. It did an OK job for maintenance ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html but still not as good as removing the manifold and then fixing the problem causing the build-up (which is the subject of forthcoming videos!)
Cheers,
Gre
Thanks for the video, I also have a pajero with 230k kms, is it worth it to do this aswell, or is too much hassle since ecu is able to compensate as shown with yours with similar kms to mine. Also im not sure how turbos work, does lower boost mean lower strain on turbo? Higher lifetime? or does it not matter. Thanks greatly
No worries mate. Whether it's worth it really depends how long you intend to keep the vehicle. If it's never had the manifold cleaned it will probably be pretty gunked up by now. As you say, the ECU can compensate for blockages by increasing boost, so it doesn't affect driveability; but higher boost pressure just means everything in the intake's just under that much more strain. My boost dropped from 20psi to 10psi by doing this without affecting performance as shown, which means there's less load on the turbo and all other intake components for the same performance. So if you're planning on keeping it for a while it's probably worth doing a manifold remove and clean, and then either use some Liqui Moly every service, or just plan to remove and clean the manifold every 100-150,000kms or so. I cover its worth as a maintenance item in this video ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html.
If helpful means not seeing any real difference..then yes its been helpful
Great! I find it helpful to know what does work as well as what doesn't, so I don't waste money on the things that don't work.
I wouldn't say this product doesn't work *at all*, it's just not effective when there's a lot of gunk (see the 'does it work for maintenance?' video where I look at using it for periodic maintenance ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html )
I think it design more as a maintenance thing to keep it clean from new. Not necessarily clean out all the gunk. Catch can is the way to go if you want to prevent it from gunking up as soon
That was my guess before I started, and that's how it worked out if you check the follow-up video ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html. However they advertise that it will clean a dirty manifold, not that it's only good if your manifold is only lightly soiled. That's why I wanted to fact-check their claim.
@@TheMusingGreg yeah thanks for making this video. I dont waste time trying to clean my manifold with that i just pull it off and scrub it real good. I thinks it's still a good maintenance thing to do tho spraying it in
Exactly. I think it's the essential first step, but seems OK for maintenance.
Might be better to soak the parts in oven cleaner then preasure wash. Also, did you clean the turbo intake and intercooler?
Yep I did that when I did the full strip down and clean. I didn't clean the turbo intake and intercooler this time, however I attempted to do so after a subsequent video, although without removing the intercooler I don't know how effective it was.
Its a manikfold haha 6.20. Very good video.
Haha missed that one! Glad you enjoyed the video!
That was the best no bullshit video I have found. So many fucking snake oil sales men out there it is very depressing. Thank you Greg I so rarely find cause to praise a video so highly. No crap, just facts (you know the things that don't care if you believe them or not). I too have watched heaps of videos on Liqui-Moly snake oil, and the results of "I think it is running better" at least you did a run to check out the power 0 to 100 Km/H. Also I think taking the inlet manifold off and cleaning is a wise choice, even if the Ligui-Moly worked MIRICALS do you really want all of that crap running through your engine possibly blocking up things or fucking your turbo. Really good job man, I have subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the comment and sub Jeffrey, really appreciate it and glad you found the video so helpful! The main reason I did the video was because of all those 'I think' comments - it was time for some real data!
I agree that the idea of having all that running through the engine isn't great, although from having done a few of these types of tests now I'm less concerned than I was. I found the solvents dissolve the build-up quite slowly (see the Penrite vs Liqui-Moly video as an example), rather than it breaking the build-up off in chunks, so it's probably no different to the oil and soot being sucked through in normal combustion before they were combined into manifold gunk. That said, it's still better to remove it manually especially as that's the only option if it's never been cleaned before.
Cheers!
Well I guess I won't waste my time time with this.. Thanks for your video. The emission systems have killed these diesel motors.
I wouldn't bother for a deep clean, but if you've done a full strip and clean it works ok for maintaining it
Was the engine already warmed up before you put this trough?
Hi Francois, yes it was, it had been running last probably an hour or two ago.
After doing a manual clean on the intake manifold of my car, I now use this Liqui Moly product as a maintenance item every 6 months before doing an oil change.
I agree with your findings that the product alone will not clean years worth of carbon, but in my experience when using it at 6 month intervals it certainly helps reduce the carbon buildup as the carbon is still quite fresh. This combined with a good quality catch can is essential for modern diesel engines.
For the record im using the product on my Audi SQ5 with the 3.0L V6 biturbo TDI.
Thanks for the insight @LucasVWGolfR! It sounds like a good plan, and it's a hypothesis I'll be testing when I post the 5000km follow-up video soon! Stay tuned!
This product requires more than one clean. For a manifold that clogged it will require several cleans just before oil changes.
I have very good results on 2005 4.2tdi Land cruiser. I am a fifty year plus Diesel Tech.
I would say at least that. The trouble is you don't get that impression from the way it's advertised. They say you may need a second can for a heavily soiled manifold, but in reality a single can doesn't do a whole lot, and I doubt two is suddenly going to make it sparkling!
I have found that if the soot and carbon is very oily it doesn't work to well , dry carbon build up is a bit different and it is resonably effective at cleaning things up , if cost is not an issue then use it regularly for better effect..
Interesting, I have found exactly the opposite in subsequent videos in this series. The dry carbon is almost like rock and is very hard for these products to remove, much harder I found than when there's soft oil mixed in with it.
@@TheMusingGreg ok interesting , the dry carbon I found was not hard and more of a fluffy soft build up and not difficult to remove . I guess the trick is to get it early and not to let it build up and bake on to much . The unit has only 60 k km. so could be the difference .
Ah ok. Check out ua-cam.com/video/DFemreqYqUI/v-deo.html and see if your soot looked different .
Please help me about my problem. F I push the accelerator the air will out from the turbo and the hose clip going to intercooler will damage because to much air is out
Are you saying the boost from the turbo is blowing the hose off from the inlet to the intercooler?
If so, I would recommend this: Remove the hose from where it's blowing off, and use degreaser or a solvent to clean the inside of the end of the hose and the outside of the intercooler joining pipe. Make sure these are clean of oil. Then reinstall and make sure the hose clamp is tight. If the hose clamp is damaged it may not be able to go tight enough, in which case you might have to replace the hose clamp.
Good luck!
This is another reason you need to run decent viscosity engine oil for your climate, catch can and remove the EGR especially on diesels
Yep using a thin oil will certainly lead to more blowby, especially as the engine ages. EGR removal sounds likely to be effective but unfortunately is illegal.
Will the cleaner damage the map sensor which is placed after the throttle body
No it wouldn't affect the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor sits off the side of the manifold and measures manifold pressure, it's not inline with the air flow like an air flow meter (MAF sensor) is. When this product is being used, the turbo is disconnected so there is no pressure in the manifold, and thus no solution would be being pushed towards the sensor.
Liquimoly is an excellent products 👌
They're certainly better than some others that's for sure. Though for this job it's still not particularly effective.
I didn't think it would do much. I think if a product did do a proper soot clean, it would be something too volatile for the combustion chamber aka may cause damage. I switched off my EGR and installed a catch can then performed a manual manifold clean. Did 70k km and there was a fair bit of gunk. Main reason I did it was to remove the swirl flaps as they are known to come loose and the screws get sucked in.
You may be right Rob, and that's probably why it takes a lot of this stuff to make an appreciable difference. Prevention is certainly better than cure so a catch can seems like a sensible option once you've gotten a clean manifold. That'll probably be coming in a future video!
i think if it was started when the car was new and done as a part of your service and stay on top of it before it got that bad it would work much better
That's correct. If you check out the follow-up video on maintenance you'll find that's basically what I concluded. The thing is though that the manufacturer doesn't indicate it's only effective on lightly clogged manifolds.
Hey was your intake ever cleaned before, I bought a used Volvo diesel and I'm not sure wether to try this or strip everything off right away
Hi mate, I'm not aware this engine's ever been cleaned out before. If I were you I'd strip it down and get it properly clean first, then use this for maintenance.
@@TheMusingGreg yeah probably no way around it, hope Ill get to it when semesters over
Did you take it for a drive as recommended?
I don't recall that advice, however yes I did take it for a drive.
i hear what you're saying about how there weren't any "Obivious Improvements in performance" but the computer is likely having to work alot less to keep everything operating properly than it was when it was gunked up. If anything, the efficiency of the engine goes up by removing the gunk but you're not going to gain much HP, just Responsiveness and efficiency. At least in my opinion. Mostly because the computer on the car is always making changes to maintain a certain set of standards/ratios. Regardless of how much carbon builds up. The computer will adjust injector timing or the amount of fuel sprayed in, or the wastegate position, or the swirl flap position, until it is happy with what it sees. Only when the computer is maxxed out on the changes it can make will you get a check engine light or have performance issues. Until then, your car will run like normal with the exception of being maybe a little more sluggish. I recently purchased a can of this for me 2015 bmw 328d wagon, i will be using it this weekend and i plan to make a video on it to post. Very interested to see what it does.
Hi mate, yeah I would typically share your opinion but this was an objective test if there was any measurable improvement - and there wasn't. If you're keen on the car lasting as long as possible then it's probably worth keeping the manifold clean in order to reduce load on other parts of the intake system, but the point of this video was to show that, on modern turbo diesels at least, a clean manifold doesn't result in performance or economy improvements - I made this point at 6:13. Good luck with your test - but make sure you do before and after tests of performance too so you've got hard data to work on.
2:59 hardened or partially hardened carbon.. would need more cans + let it soak for a while with shutup engine, then continue
I agree,, however they don't instruct the user to do tha. So I was just following their instructions exactly to see how it worked as they instructed, rather than my own ideas.
Hi. Is this hard to pull off the entire intake and do a clean?
Not hard but can be fiddly. I followed this tutorial from Mr Pajero: facebook.com/watch/?v=330575817780304
How did you clean your floor after getting carbon everywhere ?
I did it outside! :D
Best to do a full clean first and then use the LM Decarb to clean the thin layer of soot that accumulates over time. It won’t clean a fully sooted up EGR…
Yep that's what I've ended up recommending I think after the second video in this series. Thanks for the comment mate!
Like you said, I think you need to use at least 3-4 cans of this stuff. Doing long runs in between. A full day's job.
Given this product does dissolve the gunk, I think that would give a better result. However the instructions on the can don't suggest that - the closest it gets is something along the lines of an additional can may be needed in extreme situations or something like that. But I wouldn't want to send that much gunk through the engine, hence the follow-up video on using it as a maintenance product after you've already got it pretty clean - ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html - check it out if you haven't.
@@TheMusingGreg I watched it, great follow up.
I used a cheaper alternative to this and it definitely worked on cleaning the EGR (have the before and after pics). But I still dismantled and cleaned it all properly and as you say I now use it to keep it clean.
When I did dismantle it, I noticed that the 2 cans I'd used had really cleaned the intake valves, I was really surprised at how clean they were. But as I say, that was a couple of cans with runs in-between.
I'm putting a can of Liqui-Moly Diesel Engine Intake - though my Territory 2.7 TVD6 every 7500km (with an oil change) I got the car at 17,500km and it now has 52,000k. While I cant easily see the inlet valves, the inlet tract is spotless after a dose of Liqui-Moly. And it was fairly dirty when I first got it, although nothing like this Pajero. I can't detect any noticeable performance gains.
Thanks for the input James, that's great to know! If you got onto it that early before you got serious build-up, you'll probably be OK. However it might be worth adding a catch can to keep the oil vapours out, especially as the engine ages. I've actually got a video in the works on the effectiveness of a Provent catch can as I've had one on this vehicle for a few months now, so stay tuned and subbed!
@@TheMusingGreg I bought a catch-can when I got the car, but its a complete pain trying to access the breather piping to fit it. It runs off the back of the oil separator in the V, under all the inlet junk and down behind the motor to the low pressure side of the Turbo. There is a lot to be said for simple 4 cylinder diesels with lots of access.
@@jamesal0 Oh that does sound painful! Yes you're probably right about the simplicity of a 4 cylinder - although I've got a VY V6 Berlina and you could have a party in all the spare room under the engine bay, compared to the Pajero!
What was the outcome 5000klms later mate?
Hi mate, this video as the 5000km follow-up: ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html.
But there are a few other videos since hen looking at Liqui-Moly and other intake cleaning products so check out this playlist: ua-cam.com/video/gcP5Z2Kc7X0/v-deo.html
Cheers,
Greg
So the only way to clean the intake properly is to take out the intake manifold and manually cleaning it? Thanks!
As far as comparing it to just using this product, yes that is correct, at least if your manifold hasn't been cleaned recently. However the follow-up video will settle once and for all whether this product helps to keep clean a manifold which is already fairly clean with only soft soot.
The only alternative I know of are the chemical treatments done by professional mechanics for several hundred dollars. I've heard it said they use the equivalent to about 30 cans of this stuff. If that's true then they might work, but I have no data to comment either way. The problem there is that all that gunk gets blown through the combustion chamber, and possibly pressed into the diesel injectors. If you wanted to do it properly I think physically removing it is the surest way to do it.
Cheers!
Greg
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks for the reply Greg! Do I need to replace any other gasket during this job besides the intake manifold gasket?
The inlet manifold gasket isn't ESSENTIAL to replace, however I figured for the effort to get it all off I would hate to find I got a gasket leak afterwards for the sake of saving the $80 it cost for the new gasket. But you have to take care on the other gaskets - they don't sell the gasket which holds the two halves of the manifold together, so be careful with that one. Mine was in good condition, metal, and came off easily. The other two round gaskets which join the upper to lower manifold, and the throttle body gasket, I think they were both available and quite cheap.
Imo the only way to use this product is as a finishing touch, as in clean up the manifold itself and the head intake canals as best you can (manifold perfectly, head partially) and then use the can to clean the intake runners more precisely.
Doing the manual clean up did reduce my 2.0 HDi fuel consumption noticeably, even though there were only 2mm of buildup, I guess it's like you said, less boost need for the amount of airflow required, so less resistance on the engine. As for performance, it might have made the endine a bit more responsive at the top end of the rpm range, but that might as well be a placebo, didn't bother measuring it.
Will use this product as a finishing touch, just in case it's useful, won't hurt my wallet much or the engine I guess.
Yep that's about the conclusion I've come to. It's what many would assume but it was an unverified theory. If your vehicle is an older one with a pressure-controlled wastegate it would make sense if you get better performance / fuel economy.
@@TheMusingGreg it's a 2010 Citroen C5, variable geometry, definitely ECU controlled.
That's interesting then that you saw economy improvements. The ECU must be relying on some input other than just air flow to determine appropriate boost and fuel metering. Anyway glad you got an improvement from it.
@@TheMusingGreg to me it makes sense, the ECU relies on having as much air in the cylinders, as it expects, if the canals are badly clogged, it either has to give a bit more boost to get desired airflow (more power required by the turbo) or it just gets less air into the cylinders and doesn't know about it, thus resulting in a bit worse burn of the fuel, so a nit less efficient. At least that's my theory. Anyway, what surprised me is not that there was any change, but how large the change was for how little gunk I found in there.
In your first scenario that's exactly what I'm describing - it just asks more boost from the turbo to get the right amount of airflow. Boost is free extra air so with an open manifold or partly clogged one, the ECU can still get the right amount of air either way with no load penalty.
Your second scenario is what I was referring to, that the ECU may be relying on something other than just air flow. One possible scenario would be if your vehicle uses a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor instead of an air flow meter. With a MAP sensor, the ECU has to calculate how much air flow should be going into the engine for that amount of pressure at those engine rpms; so if the manifold's partially clogged, then you'll have less air flow at a given pressure x rpm node. If the ECU delivers the amount of fuel it expects the engine needs with a clean manifold, the O2 sensor may then detect rich exhaust and tell the ECU to dial back the fuel, which would result in a correct mixture but reduced combustion and thus less power / worse economy as you have to drive the car harder.
I used moly for intake. My RPM went up 100
Do you mean your idling RPM increased, or the RPM increased by 100 as you were spraying it in?
4:20 C´mon fair go to the product.. it´s not designed to remove heavy thick sludge build up like that , if it did the motor would probable cave as it would be sucked straight into the cylinders.. there´s only one way to remove it and that's by disassembly and cleaning manually , this stuff is for maintenance only, and to prolong the eventual build up of sludge which builds up from short runs around town, and the motor not reaching full operating temp often enough. For what's its designed for its an excellent product.
Privately, I agree with you and did so before this test. But the thing is it's not advertised as a product only for maintenance. It's advertised as a product for cleaning a manifold, so it should be able to make a considerable improvement on any level of clogging. Also, people won't know if their manifold is heavily clogged or not unless they remove the manifold which most won't do, so they actually will have no way of knowing how much sludge is in there. So even if they said it's not for a heavily clogged manifold it still won't help most users. Unfortunately most people will simply use it, have no way of knowing whether it's actually done anything at all, and then post about how much better they think their car runs afterwards.
The point of this test was to objectively measure how much sludge it actually removes. It shows, as I concluded, that a remove and clean is the only solution for a heavily clogged manifold. But this isn't what Liqui Moly claims.
@@TheMusingGreg Okay.. yeah I see your point
Thanks for the vid, I did think this stuff was too good to be true.
You've just saved me $30.
Now I'll just go and do it the hard way like you had to.
It does make some sense that you didn't see any acceleration performance increases, because it's a forced induction engine, so the turbo just works harder to force the same amount of air into the engine.
I think you should see better fuel economy though.
No probs mate, it's good for maintenance but not for a heavily clogged engine. Since the turbo gives free power it just overcomes any resistance on the intake so the engine doesn't have to work any harder, only the turbo. This is why there's no change to power or economy.
Why your Pajero so slow? How much weight you carrying?
Haha I did wonder that myself, it felt slow! We are pretty loaded up though as we're travelling Australia this year so there's a set of drawers and a heap of stuff in the back, plus it was full of passengers. However I wasn't interested in the absolute performance per se, as to whether there was any difference after the clean.
Thanks for watching!
Greg
Won’t this loosen carbon inside the intake and drop it in your engine?
No it dissolves it into the solution and the solution gets sucked through and burnt. Check the before and after photos - after use the surface is very smooth from the material being slowly dissolved.
3:58 - "I would have expected a much better result than that". yes, send all the caked up soot through your engine, catalytic converter and any other emission control units that exist in your car within the short amount of time you were spraying the can. thank god those things dont work any better than they currently do LOL
Whether or not you agree with the reason for these products existing in the first place, the point of the test was to prove whether or not it worked as claimed. However if the engine's running at 2000rpm, there would be 20,000 combustion cycles within a 4 cylinder 4-stroke engine over a five minute period. If the soot and oil (which are both combustible anyway) is dissolved into a combustible solution, I think that would be plenty to burn up the soot and oil.
I have really mixed feelings about this product. Unlike you, I like that it is a softer cleaner. Not too harsh (Unless you heat-soak the engine too long with this stuff inside). Cleaned my Fiat and Mazda diesels with it.
The Mazda (200k+ km’s) saw a significant drop in consumption (likely because the MAP sensor and the twin turbo were all coaled up (known issue) and then clean again. Went from 5.2l/100 at 100kph and 6.9l/100 at 120kph to 4.3 and 5.2 respectively. So significant. Which makes sense, a coaled up MAP and turbo are unable to do what the ECU tells it to do or measure. So as expected, happy.
On the Fiat however the spray was somehow far more aggressive and loosened all kinds of dirt and debris. Now the Fiat is by design a low maintenance car (oil+filters every 30k and that’s it really). But after 300k+, no matter how good Italian diesels are, stuff’s bound to be caked on. And yes, a lump of coal broke loose because of the spray and killed my EGR (stuck open by a lump and the mechanism broke itself). Makes you think what it might have done to my Turbo.
At the plus side, from 4.3l to 3.5l/100 at 100kph and from 5.5l to 4.8l/100 at 120. Guess that’ll eventually cover the cost of the new EGR?
Thanks for the comment mate. What type of Fiat and Mazda do you have, and what year are they? As I mentioned I suspected there could be some gains for older diesels where the ECU isn't as involved.
@@TheMusingGreg hey Greg. It’s a 2012 Fiat Bravo 1.6 Multijet diesel (Euro5) and a 2014 Mazda 3 2.2 Skyactiv diesel (Euro6):
Interesting, thanks for the reply. Those results are different to what I found with my 2012 Mitsubishi, so it's good to know in some circumstances there are tangible gains to be made. It would be interesting to have known what sorts of results you may have gotten simply by cleaning the MAP sensor, and how clogged the manifold itself actually was before you started.
@@TheMusingGreg Yeah it gets even weirder really, the Mazda had a engine rebuild just 2 months earlier. New head, headgasket, EGR cooler, new oil pump etc. However, the dealership hasn’t decarbed the rest of the engine due to cost-benefit ratio.
Mazda diesels are have zero turbo lag and are torque monsters. But extremely prone to breaking down. This due to the twinturbo,, exhaust pressure sensor, intake manifold and map sensor all being caked in carbon deposits. Look at this MAP for example, images.app.goo.gl/DhCsNrWDuF4VYo8P7.
So the MAP reports wrong values, the ECU keeps pumping in too much diesel and the turbines in the turbo become caked in carbon, unable to provide sufficient boost, which in turn prompts the ECU to pump even more diesel into the chambers, diluting the engine oil and destroying the engine eventually.
This is extremely relevant to you as Mitsubishi and Mazda developed this engine together in partnership with Ford and Peugeot. So while it is a lot of fun to drive, you should really keep an eye out for your engine health. Meaning carbon clean, oil and filter change every 10k km, and use an engine flush every oil change. Also try Liqui Moly 5156 to keep it healthy. 1 bottle once per oil service or 3 bottles over 2k km to resolve issues with injection or pump.
Fiat on the other hand, being the inventor of common rail diesels had a sterling reputation for building insanely economical and dependable diesels. So I was surprised it had such a profound (delayed) effect and a bit sour that it killed my EGR. Luckily Fiat diesels are easily repaired, replacing the EGR was literally a 10 minute job.
@@sadoka Wow very interesting! Guess there's always a downside to fancy new technology - might reduce emissions and increase power, but not necessarily the best long-term solution. Thanks for the input!
Can’t find this in the US!!!
Shame! :( Not sure if it's got a different name perhaps? Contact Liqui-Moly to see if they can help out with a local distributor. Good luck!
The 0-100 time didn't improve after decarbonize the intake yourself nor any fuel economy which is surprising. I am wondering if there was any improvement in the smoothness of the engine, cold start or part throttle acceleration? The computer seems really good at adding or removing boost to get the target engine output so you couldn't see any improvement in fuel throttle performance.
Raj I didn't notice anything at all, and I was looking for it - so if there was any improvement it was negligible. I think it's simply because as you say the ECU is compensating for the restriction by increasing the boost.
@@TheMusingGreg I reckon a tune would unleash the horsepower then.
The man said even if you remove every speck of the carbon as he did, it makes no difference in engine performance so it ain't worth the effort. Better to use the car as is and when you get 150,000 miles remove the intake manifold and clean it as he did and recondition the cylinder head(s). That would make the engine like new.
Yep that's about the result for me mate, I don't really think it's worth it for me or most people with newer vehicles with ECU controlled boost. However a clean manifold will result in less load on the turbo which should help with longevity, and it might give a performance bump in older cars. Maybe a physical remove and clean every 60,000-100,000 miles / 100,000-150,000kms if you want to keep the car long term.
Always thought a lot of this stuff was just fanciful, with manufacturers laughing all the way to the bank. As I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but reasonably handy and cautious, how hard is it for me to take the manifold off, does it interfere with the injectors at all?
Are there any tips or problems? My Pajero has done 158k, and has had a blanking plate since 60k.
I do have a torque wrench, but not the required torque settings.
Hi Greg (nice name mate ;)), my cynical feel has always been the same which is why I was keen to test it for myself.
I wouldn't say the job is hard to do if you've got a good spanner and socket set, but you do have to remove the common rail and the fuel lines from the common rail to the injectors and they're only supposed to come off six times before you replace them. So check your manual (if it was filled in) to see how many times yours have been off already.
The hardest thing is probably just getting to some of the bolts. It took me probably 9 hours including a few hours' worth of cleaning. Check out Mr Pajero on Facebook he has this 6 video series on how to do it which I found helpful: facebook.com/1053786191448105/videos/330575817780304
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks buddy, never met a bad one yet.
Was thinking of getting the tappets done soon. The car has never been touched, let alone 6 times! Would these two jobs overlap as for seals and gaskets? I do have Sidchrome socket and spanner sets from when we used to make things here in Oz. Do I need torque settings or is it a 'nip up' type operation. So many questions, so little time!
Greggy-the-not-so-great.
Where do the coal lumps end up after detaching. I don’t think it’s Good for the combustion chamber.
As mentioned in the video, yes they would go through the combustion chamber which is why I don't think this is a good idea on a heavily clogged manifold. However the sludge seemed to get dissolved slowly rather than come off in lumps, so it's perhaps less of a problem than it might seem.
the only way to decarb is to strip the intake and remove by hand this stuff is really only capable of removing the really fresh sludge
Thanks for the comment, yep this is the conclusion I proved in the video.
Where will the removed carbon go ??..into ccylinders?..if not how??.this is my prrimordial doubt always...
Yes it will go into the cylinders and get burnt, just like exhaust carbon would normally. The product dissolves the carbon slowly, it doesn't come off in chunks, so because it's in low concentrations it is unlikely to damage the engine.
So basically it's a ripoff. The only real way to do it is total removal , very informative video . 👍
As far as it cleaning a dirty manifold, you pretty much got it! It can be helpful for maintenance as the follow-up video showed ua-cam.com/video/yQ-zWVF9E4Y/v-deo.html, but it's a waste of money if it's not already fairly clean.
Mate, you had applied it completely in the wrong way as I saw from the video. You should release it in 3-second frequency at 2000 to 2500rpm. and use the 70cm hose back and forth to reach deeper areas. And then you should wait for 10 minutes at 2000rpm. and then take your care to a drive to burn the carbon and additive. when your car stops giving white outcome the process will be done. I use this cleaner for 3 years at my 2006 Nissan Pathfinder R51 2,5 DCI. And it works perfectly for me.
Mate thanks for the comment but I'd respectfully disagree I've applied it in completely the wrong way. If you look at 2:07 onwards, you'll see from the caption that I did exactly as the directions, which are in line with what you said - 3 second sprays / 2000-2500rpm / hose in and out. I wasn't able to include footage of every part as the camera angle didn't capture everything which is why I put the caption there explaining it.
I've got another can of the stuff here and there's nothing in the manufacturer instructions about waiting 10 minutes at 2000rpm (do you mean *running* it at 2000rpm for 10 minutes, or waiting for 10 minutes and then taking the car for a run?). The directions don't say anything about taking it for a drive afterwards. Both alternatives may help it work better, but this test was always about testing as per the manufacturer's directions which is what I've done.
I'm glad your method has worked well for your Pathfinder. On what basis do you feel it worked perfectly? Did you discover you had a clogged manifold first, used this product, and then found it was perfectly clean afterwards? That's what this product basically claims to do, and in my testing as per the directions it didn't come close to doing that.
@@TheMusingGreg Very intelligent response!
@@PadmaDorjee Cheers!👍
My concern is where does all that crap go.. eg Do large chunks go further into the system creating potential blockages?
Yep it's a valid question, and that could happen. However in my experience with this product it seemed to dissolve slowly and the soot ends up in a solution, rather than breaking chunks off. I've just finished shooting the next video on this product and the evidence there further supports this view, so stay tuned for when that one's released!
@@TheMusingGreg awesome thanks for the reply.. looking forward to the next video
This is from egr so everything going back to engine getting burn and hopefully don't gonna stay in dpf filter
@@ozskipper Next video is LIVE! ua-cam.com/video/M6zJUXVhHSI/v-deo.html
@@patrykwitkowski1823 That's the risk - you hope it burns up and doesn't block up anything else downstream!
Cheers, you just saved me £31
My pleasure mate, glad it was helpful. Make sure you subscribe as I have a couple of related videos in production.
You won’t necessarily feel the difference on accelerator pedal but on average consumption. As more air gets in the cylinder the better combustion is and requires less fuel.
That's the thing, the engine isn't getting more air. Towards the end of the video I explain that the turbo was previously compensating for the flow restriction by increasing boost, which is why boost dropped. So in the end the engine was getting the same amount of air for the same amount of effort = no change in power or economy.
@@TheMusingGreg
In any case it’s better as your manifold absolute pressure doesn’t exceed a dangerous value for boost hoses or intake gaskets. Maybe your car is just meant to have less hp than others. I manually cleaned my intake with oven cleaner and it feels like a different car. Gonna test on some other car this LM product as it clearly did some positive changes inside your manifolds.
I certainly agree that it's better for the engine and turbo to be under less pressure and I mentioned that in the video. But this test primarily was about whether it improved economy or power, and neither of these happened. As I also mentioned, it's likely a different story on older vehicles where the wastegate is controlled directly by boost pressure rather than the ECU. So if your vehicle was say 15-20+ years old it's likely it would make a difference. But on this and other modern turbo diesels, there was no measurable improvement in either power or economy.
@@TheMusingGreg
Neither do I believe in most of their claims. No product can give you extra power or efficiency. What those products really do is they restore (as they can) some of the lost power due to air restriction (intake) or dirty injectors (fuel system).
@@gheorghinacov6008 Yes this product does not claim to create extra power the vehicle didn't originally have (e.g. like a friction modifier might do). It does claim to do what you say which is to remove manifold build-up which would improve air flow; but whether that results in an improvement in power or economy isn't so straightforward although on the surface you'd assume so. It will depend on the design of the engine, as explained in the video.
I hope this works cause I just bought 4 haha
Hopefully you got a good price! If your manifold's pretty dirty do yourself a favour and remove it and get it cleaned properly. Then use your 4 cans once every 10000km or so to keep it clean. If the manifold's very dirty then 4 cans still probably won't clean it.
lower boost = lower exhaust manifold pressure = better fuel economy!
In a traditional engine where boost is directly equivalent to air flow, that might be true (although I don't know how exhaust manifold pressure would relate to economy?). But with the ECU controlling the wastegate or the vanes on the turbo, it's a different story. What matters is the amount of air in the engine. The air flow meter measures the total air flow, which takes into account any blockages along the way, and the turbo boost is simply adjusted to provide the right amount of air flow.
Thing that gets me, is where does all that carbon go when you "clean" it out with whatever spray you use. I have injectors, wouldn't want all that gunk going through very expensive injectors I'd say.
Absolutely valid point Brad. However the carbon seems to get dissolved slowly, so if the engine's running at 2000rpm, there would be 20,000 combustion cycles within a 4 cylinder 4-stroke engine over a five minute period. While I don't love the idea of that gunk going through the engine, I think if dissolved in a solution bit by bit it's probably plenty of time to burn up the soot and oil.
How would this go by injectors? Maybe learn about engine first
@@patrykwitkowski1823 You're right that the gunk wouldn't flow 'through' the injectors, but if a lump of carbon was dislodged and sucked into the combustion chamber it's possible it could be pushed up into the nozzle of the injectors and cause some blockage. I think that's what Brad was getting at.
Running carbon soot through combustion chamber.. .yes/no...
Yep that's what usually happens with EGR, so when mixed with oil it makes this gunky build-up.
Wouldnt it be bad to send all that crap through your cylinders by cleaning the intake using liquid moly?
Hi Mark, that's certainly one downside of this method, however when you see how smooth the remaining gunk on the manifold was, you can tell it dissolves it into a very thin solution rather than chunks that could cause damage. So I'm not as concerned about that side of it having done this test.
@@TheMusingGreg ok cheers thanks. I have a cruiser with 380k on the clock and its never been done. Local mechanic swears by just running a detergent through the intake and letting it dissolve that way. Im a bit skeptical i think id rather just have it removed and cleaned properly
@@markwhiting8259 Mate I would share your thoughts on that! If it's done that far and never been apart I wouldn't waste your money on this or any similar product. You'd probably need at least 10-20 cans to do the job properly if it's heavily caked and even then you don't know how well it's done. Do a strip and remove, then you know it's done properly, then use a can of this stuff every 5000 or so to keep it fairly clean.
That's a seriously caked manifold and probably hasn't been cleaned for 100K (miles) - it would need a walnut shell blast to get all the carbon out. My M57 engine was nowhere near as bad as that when I had it walnut shell blasted at about 60K miles. I think the stuff may help for lightly carboned manifolds but it won't remove 3 -5 mm of carbon build up.
Yep it was pretty bad, and I wasn't surprised the product didn't clean it all off!
I dont believe in any miracle in a can. I was pleased with liqui moly diesel purge and the diesel lifter treatment. They both helped. But I have never seen an intake cleaner work on diesel.
My mercedes om603 had 1/4 inch of greasy soot. I removed ice intake and sprayed the inside heavy with oven cleaner. It did great. Then egr block off.
Egr is main cause of greasy soot in diesel intake.
I'm likewise skeptical which is why I wanted to do the test. EGR block is certainly part of the solution, though an illegal one, but it only deals with the dry exhaust soot, not the sticky oil. If you check out the catch can videos on my channel you'll see that's a pretty important piece of the puzzle too.
It was never going to shift that amount of gunk, If you had bought the car new and used it say every 10k miles then I think it would manage to keep the intake mostly decarbonised and prevent a build-up to where it had got to this point, It should be marketed as more a "prevention" product than "cure" I would say, especially on today's direct injection engines
"It was never going to shift that amount of gunk" - In which case the manufacturer should have said so from the outset, which they didn't. I personally agree with you, that it's a lot for a can of solvent to clean off, but this test was about checking the manufacturer's claims that it will clean dirty manifolds. As I suggested at the end, and as the follow-up video shows, it works well for maintenance, or a 'preventative' product as you suggested, but not for an initial clean.
@@TheMusingGreg Looking at the description of the product on their website it does say it loosens contaminants, but it doesn't mention anything about cleaning really heavily contaminated manifolds, it did mention for use as preventative maintenance which is what I personally would expect(Ex Mechanic), I think its also down to peoples expectations of giving these cleaners too much credit in what we expect certain products to actually be able to do.
Anything like we seen on your manifold is only going to be removed properly by removing the whole intake system and bathing it in a cleaner and scrubbing with a brush, same with the ports on the cyl head, scrape the crap out and blast with cleaner...
On a side note, I pick up an B40 L200 on friday that probably has the same engine as the one you have, it has some fairly high mileage(150k miles), how easy were the manifolds to get off? will have a peek inside them when I a have a weekend free and get them cleaned off once I do the timing belts.
Agreed! The manifold wasn't too hard to get off. Mr Pajero on Facebook has a good guide. There are a couple of nuts underneath the manifold holding it to the head which are a bit tricky to get to but that's about it.
I mean for that kind of soot you probably need more than one bottle 😁
Ah gotcha! Yes my guess would be about 30 cans so you may as well just remove it and do it properly!
You need to apply force by scrubbing with a brush.. So disarm
That certainly helps but the product's not advertised as requiring that, and doing so would require engine disassembly. I wanted to test the product's claims that it works just by spraying.
🤔😳😳😯 . I better pull mine off and clean it ? .
I'd put a catch can on first for a few thousand km to make sure any oil left in the inlet has been blown through before you do the strip down and clean. That way the manifold is more likely to stay non-oily.
@@TheMusingGreg good point 🤔😉
Did you follow the instructions completely? Aren't you supposed to heat soak the product for an hour then drive it at high speeds for ten minutes like other decarbonizing products?
Hi Peter, there was no mention of that on the can. The directions were to hold the engine at 2000rpm and spray the stuff into the intake manifold for a few seconds at a time.
@@TheMusingGreg I'm with Peter. Should have been heat soaked and then driven for at least 10 minutes. You need to use the whole can too. I wouldn't expect it would not have made a huge difference in your case though as it was at the extreme end of dirty. Taking the manifold off was clearly the best option for you.
@@garyandthebat Thanks for the comment mate. I might agree with you both scientifically, but it's only a fair test of the product if you follow the instructions advised by the product's manufacturer. Those instructions said nothing about heat soaking, and indeed it's possible they may have a specific reason as to why they didn't recommend heat soaking.
It might be interesting to try heat soaking separately, however I dare say if I did the initial test using my own ideas of what should work and the product still didn't work, that people would be (justifiably) saying "You should have followed the instructions".
@@TheMusingGreg also when testing practicality you should consider somebody with no Clue buying this in the hardware store and reading off the label
@@robinpohl2702 Agreed. That's why I do my testing as per the manufacturer's directions.
So you expected all that buildup of carbon to be washed away into your cylinder? That would be absolutely catastrophic for the valves and piston rings.
You mean "so you expected that product to perform as advertised"? 🤔 Most people would think that's not unreasonable but that's what I wanted to test Catastrophic yes if it came off in big chunks, but this product dissolves so it comes off in small concentrations in the solution which is not catastrophic. Unfortunately it just doesn't get enough off and you'd need many many cans to actually end up with a clean manifold.
Well it isn’t going to just vaporize!! Chunks would come loose and just get sucked into the engine
From the testing I've done, the product seems to dissolve they carbon into a solution, rather than breaking it off in chunks.
If you search for the recent video I've done on liqui moly vs Penrite, I do a test of the way each product dissolves the carbonb which will help answer your question. Look out for the test in the plastic cups.
Fuck moly,Mr.muscolo best cleaner
Possibly if you've got the manifold off, but I wouldn't want to risk that going through my engine and DPF!