[FOLLOW-UP] Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner - any good for MAINTENANCE??
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- Опубліковано 9 лис 2020
- A few months back we did a test on Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner's ability to clean a gunked up inlet manifold. Here's the original video:
• [TESTED] Liqui-Moly Di...
As promised, we're now looking at how effective it is at MAINTAINING a clean manifold once you've given it a good clean-out one way or the other. If you've cleaned your manifold out, is this something that'll keep it clean? And regardless of the answer, is the result worth the price?
Find out!
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Would love to see a provent catch can tested with the clean manifold.
Thanks for the suggestion!
That s how you do a product review. Thank you for all that.
Glad it was helpful! Make sure you've subscribed so you don't miss the next one!
Very good test. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks for the detailed video pal. Gave me the confidence to use one on my VW 1.6 TDI...
Used MAGSOL EGR cleaner first time and had good results. Will be trying this product after seeing your detailed review.
Eager to see more videos from your end.
Cheers mate, should have another one coming soon-ish. Stay tuned!
Great follow up video to the first one mate.
Thanks 👍
Excellent objective report!
Great glad it was helpful!
In my opinion, the general problem is not the absence of an oil catch can, but rather the presence of an EGR valve. Delete the EGR and little by little oil fumes will keep the gunk "moist" and wash it off. As long as there is no soot inside the intake, oily vapours are not an issue.
Interesting perspective Alex. I guess removing either half of the problem will largely eliminate the problem, though deleting an EGR is illegal and likely to land one in strife if caught. You also run into a few issues with an EGR delete in a Pajero if you don't drill out the throttle body butterfly too to simulate air getting into the engine via the EGR when the butterfly's closed. A catch can on the other hand doesn't interfere with any of that. Anyway thanks for your input!
I agree: the oil catch can does little when EGR is on and working. A good diesel engine with EGR off and re-mapped is very good.
Deleted my EGR on my Mercedes 2000 C-Class with OM612 Engine before I installed new intake manifold. Its a soldering job with two resistors and a diode, max 30 min of work. You can feel and hear that the engine is running much smoother. EGRs are basically making diesel engines eating their own shit, its disgusting and not just fucking up the intake manifold but the injectors and glow plugs too. Oil catch can is good but doesnt solve the EGR problem at all. IMO ideal solution is both disabling EGR and installing oil catch can. And keep in mind ECU can adjust the turbo but this means additional wear on turbo.
I totally agree with you
Only if you don't have a DPF! Oil combusts and produces ash, which is the component that builds up over time and eventually terminally clogs them. Regens only burn out the diesel soot, not the oil ash. This is why DPF diesels run low ash oils, to try and prolong DPF life. EGR keeps combustion temps down, and thus less NOX, but increases soot. No EGR raises NOX, drops soot, and indeed keeps inlet oil only, but oil is a whole issue in itself in a DPF equipped vehicle, plus it coats your intercooler and reduced it's efficiency over time. There's no upside to either factor, best to drop both if you care about the engine longevity, performance and economy.
wouldn't mind seeing a catch can fitted to see how much of a reduction you get, came here from the first video you mentioned in your comment, this is more like what level of contaminants I expect these types of cleaners to be able to manage to deal with, good vid.
Thanks mate, I've had a catch can on for about 6000km now and will be posting results shortly. Stay tuned and subbed!
Great review. After watching both vids. When I buy my next 2nd hand diesel. Firstly I will manually remove and clean the intake. Then for maintenance cleans I will use the liquid moly. Keep up the great vids
Great! That's exactly what I'd recommend at this stage. If you haven't already, check out the comparison with Revive ua-cam.com/video/DFemreqYqUI/v-deo.html as that's another option which might be worth looking at.
Please test a catchcan! I subbed! Love the scientific approach. !!!!
Great welcome aboard! Any preferences on which catch can to use? The Provent (Mann&Hummel) seems to be the most favoured one at the moment.
That's a great review. I have a 2013 Pajero and had an Isuzu pcv oil separator installed. It works really great. You will surprise the amount of oil comes out of it in every few thousand kms.
Glad you found it helpful mate. I did install a catch can a little while after doing these tests and agree they do help collect some oil, although I'm not sure it actually fixes the manifold build-up problem. Have you seen those videos? ua-cam.com/play/PLY9DsfXyOtbJpXEGN-ngDH72F9bzJRTdW.html
Great review ... and I’m glad this was done in a stock standard engine with everything in tact. No catch cans or anything.
Very good review.
This stuff did make my engine grumpy whilst applying it, and the exhaust stank for a long time and that was a 17,000km old MR Triton
I think it’s only good if it used from day 1
Glad it was helpful Joseph! Yes a stock vehicle keeps things simple, and Day 1 onwards is great if 1) you get it from new and 2) you don't want MM saying you'll void the warranty if you install a catch can instead of using this product!
Stay tuned and subscribe as I'm working on another comparo with another diesel intake cleaner product soon!
@@TheMusingGreg Dear sir
I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared.
Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor?
If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light?
And if wrong how deep trouble i am in?
Please reply please
Thanks for your help
Brilliant video mate. Yes would like you to fit a catch can. Cheers👍
Cheers mate! I fitted a Provent 200 about 10000kms ago so have a decent amount of data gathered so far. They will be up soon so stay tuned and subbed!
@@TheMusingGreg Looking forward to it mate.
Great videos. Thanks for sharing. I'd love to see the provent tested. I personally am not sold on catch cans
Thanks mate. Well I've bought a Provent unit so this is under test as we speak! Make sure you've subscribed and you'll get a notification of when I post the initial install video, as well as the all-important follow-up showing how much difference it makes on this engine, where we have a baseline amount of carbon build-up we can compare with!
Awesome follow up. Very glad you did this
Cheers Mike glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I know with the 4jj1 engine like in the dmax after 30 thousand kms after manifold clean and only egr delete cable and egr blanking plate the manifold is almost as good as it was when it was cleaned. No catch can so there was oil residue but not enough to fuss about.
Yeah I think removing one or the other will help as it's the combination of oil plus soot which makes Manifold Lasagna. I've gone the catch can route to avoid interfering with any of the emissions control stuff (which is illegal to remove). I've had the catch can on for a few thousand km so far (yet to post the video of the install), and will be posting a ~5000km checkpoint video to compare it with what I got at this follow-up video which was also about ~5000km after a full clean. Make sure you're subscribed if you reckon that might be interesting to check out! ;)
@@TheMusingGreg yeah ive subscribed. Its the soot from the EGR that's clogging up the intake. Ive not removed mine, its all there, just tricked the computer into not operating the EGR. The blanking plate is to prevent any leaks. I only done that as ive had nothing but trouble with the EGR throwing codes and on a trip to Cairns from Victoria before xmas the EGR started leaking, oil all down the side of the engine and worse the starter motor got soaked in it and it didn't appreciate the oil soak. Haven't gone down the catch can road yet as I've heard too many conflicting stories surrounding crank pressures etc
Cheers mate. Yes the EGR soot does the clogging, but I'm pretty sure it's mainly going to only do that if there's oil for it to stick to. If it's dry soot on a dry manifold it should mainly blow through.
Crankcase pressures are a potential concern - I was surprised how much air was coming out of the rocker cover vent. It's not helped by the way Western Filters do their install kit either as one of the hoses gets a bit kinked. But I'm still looking into how much of an issue that actually is.
Loved your first review, no bullshit, once again you have hit the nail on the head with another great review. Think I will fit a catch can regardless after seeing all the shit that builds up in the manifold, all that crap on my hyundai is also going through the turbo and intercooler, cannot be good for anything. It is proof that manufactures do the bare minimum to get through standards, otherwise some sort of filter on the crankcase ventilation would be standard ie catch-can.
I'd agree with that Jeffrey. The catch can looks to be a good solution. I am still working on the video for that but results are looking promising. Stay tuned for when that's released!
Good follow up - worked kind of how I suspected it would. Catch cans help but blanking off the EGR system has the biggest effect on keeping the intake manifold clean.
Cheers! Yes it'll be interesting to see how the catch can works when I do that video!
Thank you from the States
My pleasure mate, thanks for watching and greetings from Down Under! 👍🇦🇺
I put a provent 200 catch can on my old Paj and again on the new vehicle a jeep Grand cherokee. I also have had the egr delete done with a tune. On a recent job done on the Jeep I asked to have some pics taken of the inlet and the manifolds. I was pleasantly surprised how good they were and I could imagine that the exhaust manifolds were in a fairly similar condition. Why we don't have catch cans as standard is beyond belief as a clean and efficient engine produces less emissions. needless to say I am a strong advocate for catch cans
Thanks for the comment Rod, yes the Provent 200 seems to do a good job, and getting rid of those exhaust gases from the inlet manifold seems helpful too.
As far as why they're not in there from factory, I expect manufacturers see catch cans as an unnecessary upfront expense and additional service cost, when they can get the ECU to compensate for manifold blockages by slowly increasing boost for several years while the manifold slowly blocks up, by which time it's out of warranty and not their concern. There is also a bit of a risk of blowing rear main seals / crankcase seals if a catch can blocks up, and this isn't a risk if the crankcase fumes are piped directly back into the manifold. But for someone interested in maintaining their rig for the long term, I also think they're worth it.
Cheers,
Greg
Great Video !!. Perfectly explains the benefits of using the Liqui-Moly Diesel intake cleaner. I have a question regarding the process. What happens to all the gunk that gets dislodged by the intake cleaner? Will it clog up your exhaust and turbo variable vanes etc??
It gets dissolved by the solution, sucked through and burnt in the combustion chamber. If you look at the before vs after photos of using the fluid in the first video you'll see the surface was very smooth. That shows this product isn't loosening chunks of soot which could block injectors, but is dissolving the gunk bit by bit which the engine would be able to deal with easily.
Very interesting. Just installed new intake manifold in my mercedes w203 diesel. This is unfortunately the weak point of the otherwise great car because the flaps are made of plastic and dissolved over time by the exhaust dirt. Your video has convinced me to now regularly use the spray to keep the flap mechanics clean. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Yep using something like this regularly is the next best option to removing it and cleaning it, however it's certainly less effective than a remove and clean.
Unfortunately removing and reassembling intake manifold is a at least a full days job on my OM612 engine.. On what intervals would you use it? Every 10k kilometres or more often?!
Yeah I wouldn't be doing it that regularly either - new gaskets each time, the chance of breaking something else etc etc etc. I would think 10,000kms would be a good interval - Liqui Moly recommends each service and that would be about the same. But it really depends on how quickly you get build-up.
The honest answer is: given this product doesn't actually remove that much build-up each time, the more often you use it the better; but you have to weigh that up against the cost of the product and how much of a problem build-up creates for each engine. If you're getting build-up on the swirl flaps and you need to keep them clean, I would add a soaking stage to the cleaning process, i.e. spray half the can in, then turn off the engine for 10 minutes or so to let the product soak in a bit, then continue cleaning. Liqui Moly doesn't say this is necessary but I can't see how it would cause a problem and may well do some good.
Good luck!
Hi there I have an NP Pajero and enjoy watching your real life testing. But after installing a catch can I did some more research and decided to remove it. Coincidently my fuel economy improved. Also after doing some simple tests with catch can and without I noticed it actually restricts air and also is dry soot better than wet soot.
Too much to discuss....Keep up the good work...
Thanks for your comment mate. I agree that wet soot is better than dry soot as the wet stuff is easier to remove. My catch can doesn't restrict air flow but I'm surprised your fuel economy improved, not sure why that would be. Interesting result.
@@TheMusingGreg My thoughts, perhaps increased crankcase ventilation. Catch was Provent 200 and I used tissue paper, and I was rather suprised at the difference. Cheers....
You used tissue paper as a filter element do you mean?
@@TheMusingGreg Nono, I used tissue paper to check the flow of from the crankcase....
Thanks for this. No experience of the product, but some background.
I recently bought an Iveco with a 3l diesel. Running rough, but usable. Local garage ended up stripping the inlet manifold/EGR and told me it was almost completely blocked with carbon. This at 185 thousand KM. When I picked it up, they said I'd notice a difference. Too true. Smooth running and 20Kph faster.... Subjectively better acceleration. As the manifold on this is a bitch to get at, I guess this product would pay many that don't have an easy to remove intake system. I'll give it a go.
Definitely worth it I reckon. Any inlet manifold is going to be a lot harder to get to than using a can of spray, so if a $30 can helps you once or twice a year it's probably money well spent. There'll probably be another video testing a similar product, so subscribe and stay tuned!
Cheers,
Greg
Just ordered a new Triton, so I would be very interested in knowing how the catch can will help with this problem as I will also be adding a catch can soon after I pick up my new vehicle.
Great! Subscribe and stay posted! :)
Cheers,
Greg
Great conclusion! Thankyou for making this video! Did your vehicle trigger the check engine light due to the manifold being disconnected?
No problems! No I didn't get an engine light at all. Do you mean from having removed and then replaced the manifold? I wouldn't have expected an engine light unless something was damaged / disconnected as part of the process. Has your experience been different?
@@TheMusingGreg no I have yet to try the cleaner. Just researching potential side issues. 😅
I have bought a couple of cans of the spray and will have a go maybe tomorrow.
@@TheMusingGreg This morning I tried to use the Liqui Moiy intake cleaner, but couldn't work out where to dismantle on the Toyota V8 diesel engine. So I ended up disconnecting the flexible pipe nearest to the air intake box. But this is probably not an ideal location. Curious to know - which components did you remove to use the spray?
@tempestv8
I obviously don't have a Cruiser, but I wouldn't recommend spraying Liqui-Moly in after the air box as it's flammable, and spraying it there the first thing the product will encounter will be a hot turbo, given the engine's supposed to be warm when using that product.
Here's what I'd be doing. Using this video as a reference ua-cam.com/video/LSUOLTW75sM/v-deo.html...
At 0:14 you can see the intercooler. The two black rubber hoses in each corner closest to the bottom of the screen I'm pretty sure are the two air inlets from the turbo. At the top of the screen would be the intercooler outlets which lead to the two inlet manifolds and into the engine. They're what you want to clean. Since you've got two turbos to deal with (unless you're in a 76/79), what I would be doing is removing the intercooler and spraying the cleaning product into the two inlet manifold ports you can see at 0:17 after removing the intercooler. If you didn't want to remove the intercooler you could remove the black rubber hoses leading into the intercooler and spray the product into one of those, so it goes through the intercooler and the product will then be split into the two cylinder banks.
Hope this helps! If someone else has a V8 Cruiser and has done this they will probably be able to give you more precise advice.
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks very much for the explanation! I see where I have gone wrong this morning! At best I have cleaned the intercooler. At worst I have wasted a can of the spray. But I did buy two, so I have one remaining can of spray left. I shall endeavour to do another clean if the weather holds up! 🙂
Hi Greg. Great video! I have a 2012 Toyota Prado (diesel). I have been using a trade grade similar product for years, as maintenance - with awesome results. However last week I messed up. By using the spray product - outside the recommended process 🤦🏻♂️ usually I spray the can while vehicle running on idles at 2000 rpm - however for some stupid reason this time I sprayed about 3/4 of the can while engine off, as result caused engine hydrolock. I know this cause engine will not turn or crank over. I knew I messed up after two attempts - and stopped at there to prevent any further potential issues or damages ie bending the conrods or damage injector tips.
I have left the vehicle untouched at this point - pray and hope the solution may have leaked down to the slump.
The alternative I have been advised to the open the glow plugs and crank over to release the fluid and solution out.
What are your thoughts.
Thanks for the comment mate. I would have recommended almost exactly the same. It's a very thin solvent so it should run past the rings in a bit. But if that doesn't work you might have more success removing the injectors rather than the glow plugs as I'm pretty sure glow plugs sit in the fuel rail not in the combustion chamber. Once they're out then you should be able to crank it and blow it all out. Good job for not over cranking it!
This tends to match my experience with another brand of diesel intake cleaner; good for maintenance, not so good for cleaning up a seriously clogged up intake/EGR system.
And, yes please to the Catch Can review - I'm in two minds about it, but without empirical evidence, I'm left in limbo - are they actually good to the engine/EGR system, or a placebo? SO, in your own time, a review, please! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Roger, yep the catch can video will be coming. Stay tuned and subbed!
Great idea to compare the difference with the catch can. Provent seem to be popular. I have the Ryco one. Literature states it’s more efficient at scrubbing out oil vapour than provent but yet to see independent testing of that. Either one is good and would be great to see
Thanks Mike I'll add those to the list!
Could you please tell me (us) more about the Ryco catch can. ie fitment, experience and price. Thank's
Frank are you asking me or @mike Wasowski? I don't have either at this stage.
@@TheMusingGreg I was asking Mike on behalf of everyone.
Any chance you can test out a HHO Carbon cleaner? Thanks.
Thanks for the comment M. I could do this, however HHO isn't going to clean the intake manifold - it's designed for cleaning carbon inside the combustion chamber. The HHO gas burns very hot inside the combustion chamber which can burn carbon off the piston crown, valve surfaces and possibly the back of the exhaust valve. But prior to getting to the combustion chamber, the HHO gas is just another gas flowing through the intake manifold, it's not a solvent so it doesn't do any cleaning until it's ignited.
Awesome videos buddy cheers!!! Can u do a vid with a catch can, can u also test penrite p26 please ( I think that’s what it’s called he he)
Good suggestion Clint!
Now, Penrite has a number of items in their P26 range. Do you mean the foaming intake cleaner www.penriteoil.com.au/products/p26-diesel-foaming-intake-cleaner or a different product? I was actually looking to use this product originally but had trouble finding it at SuperCheap Auto, but I'll keep looking.
Can you put it in before the turbo or after the turbo
Definitely AFTER the turbo, not before. It's supposed to go into the inlet manifold really. Reason being, Liqui Moly is flammable, so if you spray it into a hot turbo you could need a fire extinguisher on hand! You might be able to spray it into the intercooler intake and clean that too, but the instructions I'm pretty sure say to spray it into the inlet manifold. And the manifold's what really gets dirty anyway.
Hi i have holden captiva turbo diesel the intake it is in back of the engine can I spray front of the turbo?
I wouldn't Josh, because for this product to work well the gunk should be warm and that means the turbo's going to be hot. Spraying a volatile solvent into a hot turbo is likely to cause it to ignite, or at the very least the solvent will evaporate and not much will actually get washed through to the manifold.
I would put the time into getting the intake off even if it's a pest of a job. The flexible hose should make it easy enough to get the product in the intake once you've gotten it off.
Good luck!
directly sprayed into the turbo pipe hole, is it possible?
Hi mate, do you mean spraying it in the intake of the turbo or in the opening where the rocker cover vent tube plumbs back into the intake before the turbo? I wouldn't do either because it'll be sending a solvent through the turbo which 1) poses a big risk of fire if the turbo's hot, and 2) the solvent may damage the turbo seals. If you wanted to clean the turbo itself you'd want the turbo to be cold and the engine turned off, and check with Liqui-Moly to confirm it won't damage the seals. However the vanes on most turbos I've seen are still pretty clean because there's lots of fresh air and just a little bit of oil mist going through it. The main issue with clogging comes after the EGR valve when the exhaust soot is layered onto the moist oil.
Stay safe!
Greg
To decarbonize your engine intake use oven cleaner, which is the best something like Mr Muscle is the best solution by far. I do use liquid Moly only for fuel treatment additives
I did use that product in the first video if you seen that one, but only after removing the manifold from the engine. I'm not sure I don't want a potentially caustic product like oven cleaner going all the way through the cylinders and DPF.
Dear sir
I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared.
Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor?
If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light?
And if wrong how deep trouble i am in?
Please reply please
Thanks for your help
Hi mate,
You're not supposed to spray this product into the turbo, it's supposed to go into the manifold. You're lucky the turbo wasn't hot enough to ignite it. You're supposed to spray into the inlet manifold after the intercooler.
However I don't think you've done any damage thankfully. The check engine light is probably just because you were running the engine with the air inlet disconnected after the MAF so it wasn't measuring the intake air volume. This is probably why it fixed itself up when your reconnected everything. The only thing I'm not sure about is the white haze - whereabouts did you see that?
@@TheMusingGreg just blowing from behind engine very little mist type
But as liquimoly told to spray after air filter and maf sensor and after that i only have turbo so what are at stakes. Does my turbo health is at risk??
Thanks for your valuable reply
You're fine mate I'm sure your turbo is fine. The white smoke from the exhaust pipe is completely normal, it's just the product being burnt in the engine. If you look at this video ua-cam.com/video/DFemreqYqUI/v-deo.html towards the end of it you'll see a lot of white smoke from the exhaust of my car.
The instructions could be clearer, but the best place to spray is after the intercooler but before the inlet manifold.
How if I spray diesel instead if these Liquids like valve cleaners will that work the same or create an issue
I doubt it. Diesel isn't a solvent like petrol. On older diesels without direct injection, the diesel would be sprayed in the inlet manifold or in the inlet runners and that would wash any soot or oil off from that point on through to the combustion chamber, but once the build-up's there you'll need a physical remove and clean to do it properly, or a LOT of solvents like this product.
i also wonder if warming up thte engine for ten minutes so it gets the sut nice and warrmed up
This wouldn't hurt, and I think I look at that in a later video
Hi, did the plugin help or not?
Hi mate, which plugin sorry?
Won't you get a error code from the maf sensor not getting air flow.... When you are applying the moly
No error code. I agree with what you're thinking but it must not matter under light load conditions. But if you did get an error code you'd only have to clear it once you'd finished the job.
Get a catch can, removes fluids and oils which is what allows soot to adhere
Thanks, yes as per the last part of this video I definitely intend to test that soon!
Provent
Thanks Peter, I've recently bought and installed a Provent unit so stay tuned for the install video, some better instructions and the real test to see how much build-up this engine gets after the catch can's been installed!
Are you using a semi flexible camera?
Yes I was using a flexible borescope camera for the shots inside the manifold. This is the one I used www.jaycar.com.au/usb-inspection-camera-2m/p/QC3373 though I wouldn't recommend it, it keeps disconnecting each time the USB connector is moved!
Stp pro has a better reputation but I personally haven't tried it. Keep watching people's thoughts on products that do actually have merit. Imo removing the intake manifold and using oven cleaner is the most effective and some scotch pads on a dremel on the intake port runners
Unfortunately STP Pro is only for petrol engines, it's not for diesels. Yes the most effective cleaning solution will always a full manifold removal and strip down as I did in the first video ua-cam.com/video/gcP5Z2Kc7X0/v-deo.html but it's a much more involved process than spraying a can of magic for 10 minutes. So it's helpful to know whether or not these much simpler methods are effective, and if so what you can reasonably expect from them.
@@TheMusingGreg yes I watched both videos. I have ported the manifold for the 2.9 terracan engine to prevent the stuff sticking as easy and once I get it running again I'll let you know how much it helps. And my peugeot I haven't decided what approach to take with the intake being plastic.
@@chrissraceporting7055 Good move, I would think a mirror finish on the inside of the manifold would reduce the build-up, which might then make products like this more effective. Be interested to know how well it works!
Looks like although you didn’t get any improvement on power or economy, the fact that your ECU reduced boost pressure should mean less wear on the turbo.
Absolutely correct! So I think it's worth doing a thorough clean if you're planning on keeping the car long term.
Then a link to the original video in the written intro would have been a bit helpful!
Whoops good point! Added that one in for you! Cheers!
The most important areas to clean is around the valve stem and guide area..... That's the max restriction of your engine....
Yep that's correct. It's hard to know whether it really does that though without pulling the manifold right off, but I have my doubts it does much that far down if it only did a partial clean when sprayed directly with the solvent.
Mr Muscolo best cleaner
Thanks for the tip!
I'm not a mechanic or saying you're wrong, but I'm confused that logically a cleaner engine wouldn't be more reliable, and have better fuel economy and performance? Particularly when every man and his dog tell me more air plus more fuel equals more power.
It didn't seem to do that bad a job considering $30 per can vs $100's for other decarbonisation services.
Hi Peter,
Yes I would have assumed more power and economy too, but that's why objective data-driven testing is so important. If you check out the original video ua-cam.com/video/gcP5Z2Kc7X0/v-deo.html&lc=UgyoGWRienaE5JO2Xgl4AaABAg you'll see my reasons suggested as to why these improvements didn't show up on this vehicle.
In terms of being more reliable, that's a much more difficult one to measure than power or economy in the short-term. In theory a cleaner engine *should* work better than a dirty one, but it's hard to objectively test this which is what my channel is all about. However I did touch on my thoughts on reliability in the original video too, in that a cleaner manifold means the engine can get its required air flow with less boost, which in turn means less wear on the turbo and related intake components.
So all other things being equal I would rather have a clean intake than a dirty one which is why I've installed a catch can now, but most people do this sort of thing because they want to see some tangible improvement in those key metrics (power or economy) - so I wanted people to understand that a modern turbo vehicle isn't likely to see any tangible improvements in those key metrics by using this product.
Cheers,
Greg
Put a munji cable on it ,better idea
Yeah that's one option I'm looking at in the next video. Stay tuned!
I'm more worried about the internals of this engine, then the soot build up. The drive down the road as fast as you can isn't the reason to clean out the soot, it's engine longevity
Yeah could be Darren, though I'm not sure how much of a practical difference it will make. The sooty exhaust is created in the combustion chamber so the combustion chamber is already dealing with the soot. It's probably not ideal to send some around for a second run, but I'd think the concentrations would be pretty low vs the clean air going through.
@@TheMusingGreg The ERG valve cuts off the fresh air supply (that's the butterfly at the intake end) and opens the 'cooled' exhaust back into the intake manifold, it's 100% exhaust fumes back though the valves into the pistons. I had wondered WHY there was a butterfly on the intake side of a direct injected engine, now I know
The butterfly doesn't usually close completely, broadly it moves inversely to the EGR valve but it's usually not completely closed apart from when you shut the engine off. I've already measured this and will be putting it into the next video so stay tuned! The EGR valve also only opens under zero to light throttle conditions so you're not getting boosted lungfuls of EGR going in when it happens.
For what you pay for this stuff you would expect a much better job to get done.
Yeah I'd generally agree. It works but doesn't take off a ton of material.