Nice product and great design. If a potential user can weld at any level without being burned, it's difficult to imagine they would need instructions on how to assemble this table. Easy peasy and completely self explanatory. Cheers.
This is a great DIY welding table. I will definitely need to save up to purchase one in the future. A suggestion for holding the nut in place would be to use some masking tape.
You make a great point! I’ll do it! :-) I’ll find some time next week to do one start to finish, and then we’ll measure it with the laser and see what’s possible with the kit. I’ll try and do it as “basic” as possible to see how someone might expect it to turn out if they did it at home with no real proper surface to build it on. Will make for an interesting experiment…
A drop of cyanoacrylate glue on the nuts will hold them in place long enough to start the bolt on the side skirts and wont be strong enough to interfere with them tightening up. I really like the tab design. I saw a guy making a weld together CNC gantry using tabs only he extended them trough slots all the way and then used a wedge to draw them tight before welding...Self fixturing is cool.
Can you show how much flex or twist the table has once it’s finished? For example put the table on a flat surface and start to lift one corner. How high does it go before the other corner starts to lift.
Yes. We'll do that on the follow up video. We'll weld it out and then do some testing. But keep in mind that even extremely heavy, thick tables can and will absolutely twist when stressed. This is why John wrote a blog post about the importance of leveling welding tables to get them flat: texasmetalworks.com/2023/11/21/why-you-should-level-your-welding-table/ This doesn't mean if you leave the table on casters it won't be ok. But it means if you have sophisticated enough equipment you can always measure a difference. But again we'll do some testing! So if there's anything else you want to see tested make sure and keep the requests coming and we will follow on the list!
What welding process and filler metal / electrode do you recommend? Since you say in the comments already posted that the steel is A572 Grade 50, then I presume that a plain carbon steel ER70S-2 wire for GMAW, GTAW, or LLBW would be sufficient or an E7014 or E7018 electrode for SMAW? Also, you could use small magnets to fixture the threaded nuts.
please fix the link to the diy that shows both the table and legs, your link in description goes to the leg only, this is misleading, i was wondering why it was so cheap.. no table..
Have you actually sat down and tried to spec out your DIY options on the computer? Not user friendly, asks for options, no options to choose from?????? Interested in checking out your product and prices BUT I would like to use a platform that works. Sit down and try it.
Not sure where you got the 5mm from? You also might not be in the US, but these are 1/4" thick top plates, which is 6.5mm. Some OTHER folks make kits out of 4.75mm, but not us. Also, don't forget we're talking about A572-50 plate. This is very tough material. The other important thing to remember is that we're not talking about just a 1/4" plate with legs. I know people are used to old fashioned tables and you need them to be thicker. But this is a 1/4" top that is supported by a bunch of 4" tall ribs, plus sidewalls. When properly built this thing can support 10,000lbs (not exaggerating). So if the overall engineered solution is flat enough, strong enough, and has all the holes you need to fixture what you need, there's no problem. Not in these DIY variants, but NASA, Tesla, the US Army, and MANY, MANY other very large institutions are using our heavier duty tables and they love them.
@@JohnP fully understand all of that , but talk it up all you like its still not 12mm .. The question I guess is does it need to be 12mm , well I guess the customers will vote with their cheque book , personally its not for me at 1/4 inch.
@@tomthompson7400 what you should be considering is which shape will flex more...a 1/2" A36 plate or a 1/4" A572 C channel with 4" sides? it is pretty basic structural engineering.
one onehundreth??? 5/16 th of an inch ?? well it's not pig's feet! , point zero one five inch !?? I don't mean to be that guy but professionals don't talk that way.
Since we're talking about low cost, DIY welding table kits I can't be throwing out terms like "15 thou" and stuff like that. These kits will be built by average people, often at home, so we need to speak a language everyone can understand. I'm always happy to get into a "professional" discussion about the merits of every single technical aspect of building these tables though! After founding the company and spending years building many thousands of tables I can hang with the best of them when need be, I promise. ;-)
@@kzanderardenflaas2238 Well nobody cares all that much. But the fact that you've heard it doesn't say anything about what's right. I've heard: "ekscape" for escape, "periphial" for peripheral, "loom" for loam, "shamfer" for chamfer, "nucular" for nuclear, and on and on. In the end, the people who get it wrong often eventually become so common that the accepted pronunciation changes. But that's a long process. And for now, if you say dross so it rhymes with gross, you just sound like someone who is unfamiliar with the word. Doesn't really inspire confidence...
Nice product and great design. If a potential user can weld at any level without being burned, it's difficult to imagine they would need instructions on how to assemble this table. Easy peasy and completely self explanatory. Cheers.
This is a great DIY welding table. I will definitely need to save up to purchase one in the future. A suggestion for holding the nut in place would be to use some masking tape.
Hello jhon!! What a good surprise when this video shows up on my list. Excellent job.
Amazing table.
I wish you would of fully welded it out and measured it again. This would give the user a more realistic measurement.
Yeah, as you know the problem is even if we make it perfect in our shop it's no guarantee that people will be able to repeat that....
I still think you should do it. I mean it is a weld together kit. You can also include the time it takes from start to finish assembly.
You make a great point! I’ll do it! :-) I’ll find some time next week to do one start to finish, and then we’ll measure it with the laser and see what’s possible with the kit. I’ll try and do it as “basic” as possible to see how someone might expect it to turn out if they did it at home with no real proper surface to build it on. Will make for an interesting experiment…
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 like the start of this video.
Just subscribed, thanks for sharing
A drop of cyanoacrylate glue on the nuts will hold them in place long enough to start the bolt on the side skirts and wont be strong enough to interfere with them tightening up. I really like the tab design. I saw a guy making a weld together CNC gantry using tabs only he extended them trough slots all the way and then used a wedge to draw them tight before welding...Self fixturing is cool.
3:00 My man is so excited that he hit puberty again!
Can you show how much flex or twist the table has once it’s finished? For example put the table on a flat surface and start to lift one corner. How high does it go before the other corner starts to lift.
Yes. We'll do that on the follow up video. We'll weld it out and then do some testing. But keep in mind that even extremely heavy, thick tables can and will absolutely twist when stressed. This is why John wrote a blog post about the importance of leveling welding tables to get them flat:
texasmetalworks.com/2023/11/21/why-you-should-level-your-welding-table/
This doesn't mean if you leave the table on casters it won't be ok. But it means if you have sophisticated enough equipment you can always measure a difference.
But again we'll do some testing! So if there's anything else you want to see tested make sure and keep the requests coming and we will follow on the list!
How much would a 50-in by 70-in already put together table cost?
What welding process and filler metal / electrode do you recommend? Since you say in the comments already posted that the steel is A572 Grade 50, then I presume that a plain carbon steel ER70S-2 wire for GMAW, GTAW, or LLBW would be sufficient or an E7014 or E7018 electrode for SMAW? Also, you could use small magnets to fixture the threaded nuts.
please fix the link to the diy that shows both the table and legs, your link in description goes to the leg only, this is misleading, i was wondering why it was so cheap.. no table..
Thanks for letting us know - we've had a LOT of changes going on recently and obviously some things slipped through the cracks!
My sense of annoyance at pronouncing it "drose" is way outsize to the actual thing
Have you actually sat down and tried to spec out your DIY options on the computer? Not user friendly, asks for options, no options to choose from?????? Interested in checking out your product and prices BUT I would like to use a platform that works. Sit down and try it.
5mm thick top ,,,, and thats as far as I got , Im out.
Not sure where you got the 5mm from? You also might not be in the US, but these are 1/4" thick top plates, which is 6.5mm. Some OTHER folks make kits out of 4.75mm, but not us. Also, don't forget we're talking about A572-50 plate. This is very tough material.
The other important thing to remember is that we're not talking about just a 1/4" plate with legs. I know people are used to old fashioned tables and you need them to be thicker. But this is a 1/4" top that is supported by a bunch of 4" tall ribs, plus sidewalls. When properly built this thing can support 10,000lbs (not exaggerating). So if the overall engineered solution is flat enough, strong enough, and has all the holes you need to fixture what you need, there's no problem.
Not in these DIY variants, but NASA, Tesla, the US Army, and MANY, MANY other very large institutions are using our heavier duty tables and they love them.
@@JohnP 6.35mm not 6.5, and presumably you mean 3/16" plate which is the closest standard size to 4.75mm but is actually 4.78mm
@@JohnP fully understand all of that , but talk it up all you like its still not 12mm .. The question I guess is does it need to be 12mm , well I guess the customers will vote with their cheque book , personally its not for me at 1/4 inch.
@@tomthompson7400 what you should be considering is which shape will flex more...a 1/2" A36 plate or a 1/4" A572 C channel with 4" sides? it is pretty basic structural engineering.
@@T0tenkampf its more about what a friction clamp will do to the point load ,, you basically missed the point [ load] totally ... next.
mmmmmmmmmm....... short ribs......
You're making me hungry! :-)
one onehundreth??? 5/16 th of an inch ?? well it's not pig's feet! , point zero one five inch !?? I don't mean to be that guy but professionals don't talk that way.
Since we're talking about low cost, DIY welding table kits I can't be throwing out terms like "15 thou" and stuff like that. These kits will be built by average people, often at home, so we need to speak a language everyone can understand. I'm always happy to get into a "professional" discussion about the merits of every single technical aspect of building these tables though! After founding the company and spending years building many thousands of tables I can hang with the best of them when need be, I promise. ;-)
DIY Welding table Kits? Maybe Assamble your self Kits. DIY means DO IT YOURSELF. Meaning you have do it.. not buy a kit and assamble it. Jesus..
Looking good so far. BTW, "dross" rhymes with "cross" not "gross"...
Duly noted! Thanks! :-)
I've heard it both ways. Who cares anyways?
@@kzanderardenflaas2238 Well nobody cares all that much. But the fact that you've heard it doesn't say anything about what's right. I've heard: "ekscape" for escape, "periphial" for peripheral, "loom" for loam, "shamfer" for chamfer, "nucular" for nuclear, and on and on. In the end, the people who get it wrong often eventually become so common that the accepted pronunciation changes. But that's a long process. And for now, if you say dross so it rhymes with gross, you just sound like someone who is unfamiliar with the word. Doesn't really inspire confidence...
@JohnP listen, nobody really cares how you say slag. Keep doing what you're doing.