Bead forming is all fine and dandy, but I instantly saw this procedure for making kustom embossed lettering/script for things like tailgates, door panels firewalls, valve covers, etc..!
Came here the same thing! The only challenge I see is figuring out how to make a wide letter and not having it look like balloon letters. Thats where the backer piece might come in very handy, to flatten out the face of the letters.
@@savage6394 No dissing this video but yes, that is how it’s done. Not saying I’m an expert but I’ve replicated floor pans and such this way for a while. I’m just not good enough to make a vid like this LOL But I’ve been using hammers and dollies. Need to try the air hammer
Its funny cause I'm sick of the haters it's funny some one that can do something better then some one will bash that person but they started off like shitnor the ppl that bash some one on thier work but don't even know how to do it but still criticize some ones work
I would say that was a 150% successful. I love how you encourage people to use your ideas and even sell stuff inexpensively to help others out. Great channel.
As many people have mentioned earlier in the comments, I would really love to see a video on how you weld up the holes from the form and finish those areas (hopefully with a minimum of warping or having to touch up the bead pattern by hand). That's the part that would kick my ass, for sure.
In 100 years guys at car shows are gonna be saying " that's a Karl Fisher firewall, ain't seen one of those in 50 years" How fkn cool is that. Love your stuff man
I wouldn't say ripped off but i have used your ideas on my own car so many times, i live in Australia so ordering products off you is hard but your knowledge has saved me so many times with problems.
Wow, just wow! This is steel sheet you're forming, yes? I'm amazed at the beauty of the finished product! For series production, you could put one or more of those air hammers on a simple xyz cnc table and churn thode suckers out. I'm getting into sheet work out of necessity, as my 2008 Peugeot 308 needs some rusted panels fabbed and installed, plus about a million other projects. MAN, I love being divorced and retired! Regards from the West coast of Jutland!
My question exactly. Now you have to fill all the holes and grind with die grinder both sides of the sheet metal. I guess it's better than removing the floor pan or firewall.
Couldn't you use a real strong electromagnetic force to clamp the forms together instead of drilling holes? Make it work from a small low voltage DC magnet like they use for automatic fire alarm doors. It would jut take a small battery and an on and off switch to engage and release the magnets. No more holes needed.
As i always say, you're a metal wizard, and it's amazing what you come up with in your brain on the fly. I'm not even a metal worker, but I really enjoy watching the process.
You should be stoked! Body by Fisher did it again. I've seen this morph from your early mdf form, which are still good in my mind. But you've "skinned a cat" with this evolution. And your gift to the community is priceless. I feel Helio deserves a shout out as well. He's stepped up your game, it's obvious.
Oh man, another genius idea from the mind of Japhands! Love Elio's response to the test run, "(quite) Wow!" Best part is it won't wear out or distort like a MDF/wooden buck would after multiple uses/passes! Incredible results! Go Japhands, keep moving forward!
I love the way your mind works. I get excited with you like I’m out in my garage loving life. Keep running in to problems scratch that keep running in to solutions. Your in your flow.
I enjoy watching your creative process. I also tend to brainstorm in real time. If I hit a roadblock, I stop and look for a detour. Just keep pressing.
30:13 wow! That’s perfect. Something like this never comes around. Nothing like this exists anywhere. Very nice! It quick and easy to assemble and ya get a completely custom finish no one can match.
The way you take a concept and transform it into pure mechanical, wow!!! Sheer bloody brilliance mate... I would like ro see fitzee using a couple of your homemade tools, i'm sure he would appreciate he simplicity... Mate love borh your channels always good content. Cheers from down under...
Wow Carl! I just did this exact thing to make a new panel before my 73 Firebird. The panel goes between the back seat and the trunk. I also used 1/4" steel plates, laser cut with the X profile I wanted. Did it about 3 weeks ago. It worked perfectly!! I'd send you pics but I don't know how to attach them to one of these comments
Love your work and the channel. Amazing stuff. Had an idea on how to control the depth at the intersections. Make the air hammer bit ride on top of the 1/4 inch form, instead of inside the bead. That way when you get to an intersection, the bit can’t go past the prescribed depth. Just make sure that the bolts that hold the whole thing together, don’t interfere with creating the bead.
Hey Karl... picture this : grab some 5/8" or thicker plate or barstock, go to the mill, grab a ball endmill, cut your design to the depth of the radius of your endmill, cut interlocking " T " shaped keyslots to add length and line them up, effectively creating a die and use your delrin ball tool like this. I could spell it all out, but you get the idea. The plate you groove can be a tough plastic or whatever. To locate the design just burp the air hammer in each corner to locate, set weights on it to help control movement. Just a thought my friend! Love what you do! Respectfully, Seth
That worked even better than expected 😅 I really like this technique. None of the edges looked over stretched or too sharp. I might still bust the edges on the bottom form. To prevent the tear out on the delrin I would recommend busting the top edges of the guide plate with a flap wheel leaving no sharp edges to damage the tool. For the tool itself it probably makes sense to mold it in hard polyurethane. More easily to scale up and more durable than the delrin. If I was just making a few pieces for myself I would switch up to glass filled delrin for its resistance to shattering and it would probably be more resistant to wearing and gouging.
Karl! I will always love your channel and remain subbed forever! It hurts me to say that I've missed most of your videos since my dad passed last November. He really was the anchor for me watching regularly. I will catch up, I learn so much even just observing you here. Man, you are such a down to earth guy and I love how you share things! Your passion is infectious brother!!!Thanks for all you do and the inspiration that you are! Also, a High honorable mention to Elio (did I spell his name right?) He's brilliant & cool!!!
Dude!! That’s super cool. All of the stuff is stretching metal, your buck and air hammer setup sets up some fantastic control to keep everything square!!
Hi Carl, I enjoy watching your creativity on the fly. The enthusiasm is contagious. That you make small tooling for the rest of us to buy is really great. Just love the work both you and Elio do. Stay safe guys.
I want to buy the original bead rolled firewall if you'll sell it. This is an awesome tool, looking forward to buying one! This channel has been huge to me learning, I've been around classic cars and body shops my whole life, took welding classes at a vocational school, welded as a career for a few years, but custom metal shaping had always seemed like something that was unattainable because I didnt have someone to tutor me or a way to learn (at least that was the excuse I made). This channel has changed all of that for me! Keep up the awesome work!
Ok here goes... IM SURE YOU ALREADY THOUGHT OF THIS, I thought of it when you pointed out the "bottoming out" in the center of the "X". For consistency, I'm sure you could develop a depth gauge that attaches to the gun before the spring goes on.
Fantastic result Karl. I was of the same thought after seeing you make the rounded air chisel tip a few video ago. I had thought of using a metal form recess even out of Aluminium plate for the edge form and then MDF lower form. MDF upper and Lower plate to act as a stop. I think the Delrin or Nylon rod tip is the key of your tool. The polymer tip being just hard enough without being too tough to marr up the sheet steel panel.
I made something like this out of wood for the bottom panel of a door that needed releaf in certain areas. Clamping the wood on the top and bottom keep the metal from walking too. Back in the 70s, I used to install factory sun roofs into high end cars and learned by clamping metal on both sides, I was able to move the metal well in a controlled fashion. Great job using the metal as dies.
You could try with only the middle metal plate between 2 mdf sheets.. The middle one is the one giving the nice edge, bottom one is not really used cause you don't go far enough to touch it and top plate is basically a guide. If the mdf is strong enough to hold the panel straight, you will save a lot of material, (money for your kits), weight for shipping etc ... if it work people can basically use the matal laser cut part they receive to cut the mdf with a router and a copying bit. Just my product designer mind trying to push the project further :)
Great transition to a fantastic tool I wondered if a male end welded to the hammer bit "bolt" then female plastic screwed on would be easier for those without lathe or heat. Fantastic it worked so well.
Fascinating how you thought-processed this idea, and props to the video production because this all came through. If you could only eliminate the holes in the piece. One idea would be to use a table with several "rollers" that could tightened down the guide plates and the work piece. The rollers could be loosened and moved one at a time as you progress with your flow work keeping the plates and work piece from moving. You are rockin with your creativity.
I absolutely love this idea. I have been watching these videos and taking notes for my future projects on my channel. I have a 30 model a coupe that I will need to make floors for and a 48 COE ramp truck project that will also need a floor. I have always loved that X style in panels. Whenever you come out with this kit I will be buying one for sure!! I also make custom fiberglass panels for Corvettes I rebuild. I would love to flow form beads into panels to use as molds to make custom fiberglass floor pieces for my projects. I can see your gears turning in your head and you got mine going as well!! Keep up the awesome work. I love the channel brother!
It really looks great. The only negative I see is all the drill holes. On your car copper rivet plugs in those holes would look killer. Always waiting on more
A pleasant brain shart. You think it'll turn out a certain way but ends up being more than you expected. I'm envisioning a firewall with a center bowtie 🤘😎
That's cool! I like the idea of that "X" being just a part of a pattern. Making a "T, and other common shapes in small sizes and just piece together some nice custom beaded panel. Also a good idea from another comment about keeping the inner cutouts to be able to create different paths.
Hell ya i had that idea after i watched one of your videos with using mdf a year or two ago i just never got to doing anything with it to buisy with work and always seems like something happens before i can start a project and it never gets done lol good to see it works!!!!! Thanks for the video!!!!!
I Like !!! You could CNC a signature profile you can just in situ add to any car you customised. Simple is genius and this is so simple. I love watching the process of this thing happening, all the way from nothing is certain, to will you look at that ! It really is flowing. It's almost like you're blowing up a balloon. You just gently let it sag into shape, 'cause the biggest risk is overdoing it. And it staying so flat is a nice bonus. Beautiful !!
Good job, this method was one of the reasons i bought a plasmatable. You can trust a steeledge holding its shape. This is the most fun part of metalshaping
Dude this is innovative and it couldn't have come at a better time because I just cut the rear wall out of and old truck im building and had been trying to figure out a way to reinforce the new wall. Im excited for you the finished product is unreal ! Thanks MIK
Hi Karl (and team), this is awesome. As I mentioned to you a while back on email - I had my steel jigs made here in South Africa to help me fabricate new floor plates for my F250 project, based on the wooden ones which were not that successful for me. A bead roller cost and to import replacement floor parts from USA was too costly. I can send you pics of my test run -.... now I just need to learn how to dial in my small gasless MIG to close up holes. But I further see the holes do not need to be so close and as many as I have in my design. I truly am honored to learn these things form you.
I used a hammer flat head, welded to - A tapered cap screw head which I cut off and "rounded", then welded this onto the flat head portion of the hammer shaft as purchased.
I love what you're doing very inspiring.What you could do with your backing plate is to thread the holes in the backing plate so you don't need the nuts on the back of your studs.
That is AWESOME !!. I want to do that. ! , I'm a retired aircraft mechanic. Sheet metal, and structures is my love. I'm going to try it. With my 3x rivet gun . Thanks.
Well done Carl it looks amazing the finish is great, just a bit of brain storming and hard work yield results. Just a bit of friendly advice when hammering into the cross sections use a sharply texta it will highlight your progress. Cheers great stuff guys.
This looks awesome. Few ideas to improve. If you weld the 2 back plates together it would be one less moving part. Then oversize the full plate holes and weld nuts in it. All this would make for an easy self holding top screwed jig. Also, I would try to make one open end channel, bridged the other side to keep the shape. Or even both end open. That would make this modular. You bolt one 6" section, form it out, then move everything inline and continue to form along the original to make it 10”-12". So no need to make 4"-6"-8" linear, just one half that you move around. Would double the process but male it more versatile.
Bead forming is all fine and dandy, but I instantly saw this procedure for making kustom embossed lettering/script for things like tailgates, door panels firewalls, valve covers, etc..!
Came here the same thing! The only challenge I see is figuring out how to make a wide letter and not having it look like balloon letters. Thats where the backer piece might come in very handy, to flatten out the face of the letters.
Yes!
@@savage6394
No dissing this video but yes, that is how it’s done. Not saying I’m an expert but I’ve replicated floor pans and such this way for a while. I’m just not good enough to make a vid like this LOL
But I’ve been using hammers and dollies. Need to try the air hammer
I suspect I'll be making some motocross shinguards like this, too.
Hhmm.greath idea...
Blacksmith theo.jilderts
Harlingen.the netherlands..a.studebaker.1955.pick.up.truck
Stil.to.restaurate..so...
you make people who are not interested in metal shaping want to get interested in the hobby
I love how you are getting more confortable on the camera and letting your humor get flushed out. You guys are rocking it out of the park.
Its funny cause I'm sick of the haters it's funny some one that can do something better then some one will bash that person but they started off like shitnor the ppl that bash some one on thier work but don't even know how to do it but still criticize some ones work
You guys are the beading edge of metalwork.
I would say that was a 150% successful. I love how you encourage people to use your ideas and even sell stuff inexpensively to help others out. Great channel.
As many people have mentioned earlier in the comments, I would really love to see a video on how you weld up the holes from the form and finish those areas (hopefully with a minimum of warping or having to touch up the bead pattern by hand). That's the part that would kick my ass, for sure.
I've done some panels this way and have had no problems with warping when I welded the holes with a mig welder
Copper backing when filling holes.
@theupscriber65 came to post the copper/bronze/brass backer makes it waaay easier and way cleaner to fill em
So as soon as I buy a CNC plasma cutter I will try this.
@@BrianFluryArcDroid 👍
Keep your inside cutouts. You can weld tabs on them and bolt them back in to block off certain paths and create different patterns.
In 100 years guys at car shows are gonna be saying " that's a Karl Fisher firewall, ain't seen one of those in 50 years"
How fkn cool is that. Love your stuff man
But what do you do with all the holes you put in it? If you weld them shut what happens to the panel?
I wouldn't say ripped off but i have used your ideas on my own car so many times, i live in Australia so ordering products off you is hard but your knowledge has saved me so many times with problems.
Love the real life trial and error process, great teaching piece, no mistakes, just redirects!
Great to see you took it to the next level. Makes a ton of sense and the outcome shows. 🏆
Wow, just wow! This is steel sheet you're forming, yes? I'm amazed at the beauty of the finished product! For series production, you could put one or more of those air hammers on a simple xyz cnc table and churn thode suckers out.
I'm getting into sheet work out of necessity, as my 2008 Peugeot 308 needs some rusted panels fabbed and installed, plus about a million other projects.
MAN, I love being divorced and retired!
Regards from the West coast of Jutland!
that looks amazing , my question ,what about the holes you drilled on the fire wall
Weld 'em up.
Exactly, got to weld that lot back up now . Failed !!
@@kernowskunkworksHow's it a fail, he always intended on welding the holes back up, quick hit with a DA and you'd be none the wiser.
My question exactly.
Now you have to fill all the holes and grind with die grinder both sides of the sheet metal.
I guess it's better than removing the floor pan or firewall.
Couldn't you use a real strong electromagnetic force to clamp the forms together instead of drilling holes?
Make it work from a small low voltage DC magnet like they use for automatic fire alarm doors. It would jut take a small battery and an on and off switch to engage and release the magnets.
No more holes needed.
As i always say, you're a metal wizard, and it's amazing what you come up with in your brain on the fly. I'm not even a metal worker, but I really enjoy watching the process.
You should be stoked! Body by Fisher did it again. I've seen this morph from your early mdf form, which are still good in my mind. But you've "skinned a cat" with this evolution.
And your gift to the community is priceless.
I feel Helio deserves a shout out as well. He's stepped up your game, it's obvious.
Oh man, another genius idea from the mind of Japhands! Love Elio's response to the test run, "(quite) Wow!" Best part is it won't wear out or distort like a MDF/wooden buck would after multiple uses/passes! Incredible results! Go Japhands, keep moving forward!
I love the way your mind works. I get excited with you like I’m out in my garage loving life. Keep running in to problems scratch that keep running in to solutions. Your in your flow.
I enjoy watching your creative process. I also tend to brainstorm in real time. If I hit a roadblock, I stop and look for a detour. Just keep pressing.
You could weld different size ball bearings to air chisels to have an assortment of bead roll sizes
yes , cheaper and easier then owning a heap of woodworking tools and lathes , i call thumbs up for your idea !
Very cool! Add your Japhands logo in flowform to the floor of your car! 🤯
that is badass.... I need something like that for my race car production..... Very good young man !
30:13 wow! That’s perfect. Something like this never comes around. Nothing like this exists anywhere. Very nice! It quick and easy to assemble and ya get a completely custom finish no one can match.
The way you take a concept and transform it into pure mechanical, wow!!! Sheer bloody brilliance mate... I would like ro see fitzee using a couple of your homemade tools, i'm sure he would appreciate he simplicity... Mate love borh your channels always good content.
Cheers from down under...
Fantastic video! I love the way you did it!
Have you tried using double-sided tape instead of making holes in the metal sheet?
Greetings from Mexico
You have the best hot rod fab channel on any platform. You are an international treasure for actual hot rodders.
Wow Carl! I just did this exact thing to make a new panel before my 73 Firebird. The panel goes between the back seat and the trunk. I also used 1/4" steel plates, laser cut with the X profile I wanted. Did it about 3 weeks ago. It worked perfectly!! I'd send you pics but I don't know how to attach them to one of these comments
I liked the result so much I think I'm going to use my same X-dies to make a similar panel for my firewall.
THATS THE SPIRIT !
IF YOU DONT KNOW,
YOU THINK, AND
YOU DO ! ❤
Love your work and the channel. Amazing stuff. Had an idea on how to control the depth at the intersections. Make the air hammer bit ride on top of the 1/4 inch form, instead of inside the bead. That way when you get to an intersection, the bit can’t go past the prescribed depth. Just make sure that the bolts that hold the whole thing together, don’t interfere with creating the bead.
Wow this is awesome ! I can’t believe how flat it stayed and the crisp edges.
You are a fantastic Ambassador for Canada Karl. All the best 👍🇬🇧
Wow sir I am 63 been doing this thing for a long time, you are so impressive. My hats off.
Hey Karl... picture this : grab some 5/8" or thicker plate or barstock, go to the mill, grab a ball endmill, cut your design to the depth of the radius of your endmill, cut interlocking " T " shaped keyslots to add length and line them up, effectively creating a die and use your delrin ball tool like this. I could spell it all out, but you get the idea. The plate you groove can be a tough plastic or whatever.
To locate the design just burp the air hammer in each corner to locate, set weights on it to help control movement. Just a thought my friend! Love what you do! Respectfully, Seth
The best part is this- it works with 3D printed jigs as well. That's a game changer.
Great job on the bead maker. Fantastic concept. Endless possibilities. Be safe and stay well.
Your one hell of a clever dude love watching you make things
What a nifty idea. Very well done and fun to watch. All the best.
Never stop learning which helps to expand your capabilities. Nice tool work, dude.
Very awesome work my friend 👏 Things like this is how Foose and others became "Famous". The little touches.
Absolutely exceptional guys!
That worked even better than expected 😅 I really like this technique. None of the edges looked over stretched or too sharp. I might still bust the edges on the bottom form. To prevent the tear out on the delrin I would recommend busting the top edges of the guide plate with a flap wheel leaving no sharp edges to damage the tool. For the tool itself it probably makes sense to mold it in hard polyurethane. More easily to scale up and more durable than the delrin. If I was just making a few pieces for myself I would switch up to glass filled delrin for its resistance to shattering and it would probably be more resistant to wearing and gouging.
Karl! I will always love your channel and remain subbed forever! It hurts me to say that I've missed most of your videos since my dad passed last November. He really was the anchor for me watching regularly. I will catch up, I learn so much even just observing you here. Man, you are such a down to earth guy and I love how you share things! Your passion is infectious brother!!!Thanks for all you do and the inspiration that you are! Also, a High honorable mention to Elio (did I spell his name right?) He's brilliant & cool!!!
Sorry for you loss! And thanks for the support. Elio is correct!
@@MakeItKustom Right on my friend!
Dude!! That’s super cool. All of the stuff is stretching metal, your buck and air hammer setup sets up some fantastic control to keep everything square!!
To reduce size of air hammer bit…. Chuck up shaft, “mount” air angle grinder on tool holder and let it rip. Accurate enough for this application
Hi Carl, I enjoy watching your creativity on the fly. The enthusiasm is contagious. That you make small tooling for the rest of us to buy is really great. Just love the work both you and Elio do. Stay safe guys.
I want to buy the original bead rolled firewall if you'll sell it.
This is an awesome tool, looking forward to buying one! This channel has been huge to me learning, I've been around classic cars and body shops my whole life, took welding classes at a vocational school, welded as a career for a few years, but custom metal shaping had always seemed like something that was unattainable because I didnt have someone to tutor me or a way to learn (at least that was the excuse I made). This channel has changed all of that for me! Keep up the awesome work!
Ok here goes... IM SURE YOU ALREADY THOUGHT OF THIS, I thought of it when you pointed out the "bottoming out" in the center of the "X".
For consistency, I'm sure you could develop a depth gauge that attaches to the gun before the spring goes on.
Fantastic result Karl.
I was of the same thought after seeing you make the rounded air chisel tip a few video ago.
I had thought of using a metal form recess even out of Aluminium plate for the edge form and then MDF lower form.
MDF upper and Lower plate to act as a stop.
I think the Delrin or Nylon rod tip is the key of your tool.
The polymer tip being just hard enough without being too tough to marr up the sheet steel panel.
You have some great machines. I am where you were in the beginning. Your genius is your love of experimenting!
I made something like this out of wood for the bottom panel of a door that needed releaf in certain areas. Clamping the wood on the top and bottom keep the metal from walking too.
Back in the 70s, I used to install factory sun roofs into high end cars and learned by clamping metal on both sides, I was able to move the metal well in a controlled fashion. Great job using the metal as dies.
You could try with only the middle metal plate between 2 mdf sheets.. The middle one is the one giving the nice edge, bottom one is not really used cause you don't go far enough to touch it and top plate is basically a guide. If the mdf is strong enough to hold the panel straight, you will save a lot of material, (money for your kits), weight for shipping etc ...
if it work people can basically use the matal laser cut part they receive to cut the mdf with a router and a copying bit.
Just my product designer mind trying to push the project further :)
Great transition to a fantastic tool I wondered if a male end welded to the hammer bit "bolt" then female plastic screwed on would be easier for those without lathe or heat.
Fantastic it worked so well.
Fascinating how you thought-processed this idea, and props to the video production because this all came through. If you could only eliminate the holes in the piece. One idea would be to use a table with several "rollers" that could tightened down the guide plates and the work piece. The rollers could be loosened and moved one at a time as you progress with your flow work keeping the plates and work piece from moving. You are rockin with your creativity.
Well done Karl. You're on another level when it comes to fabricating. Take care.
GREAT IDEA!!! Looks great, you could make a flared part on the air tool as a hard stop, to control the depth of the bead
You are so talented! I admire the way you solve problems.
I absolutely love this idea. I have been watching these videos and taking notes for my future projects on my channel. I have a 30 model a coupe that I will need to make floors for and a 48 COE ramp truck project that will also need a floor. I have always loved that X style in panels. Whenever you come out with this kit I will be buying one for sure!!
I also make custom fiberglass panels for Corvettes I rebuild. I would love to flow form beads into panels to use as molds to make custom fiberglass floor pieces for my projects. I can see your gears turning in your head and you got mine going as well!! Keep up the awesome work. I love the channel brother!
It really looks great. The only negative I see is all the drill holes. On your car copper rivet plugs in those holes would look killer. Always waiting on more
Just use some brass or copper as a backer and weld em up
5:28 pure genius hard at work. I think ideas like this is what makes the world great!
A pleasant brain shart. You think it'll turn out a certain way but ends up being more than you expected. I'm envisioning a firewall with a center bowtie 🤘😎
THANK You I always learn from You 👍
That's cool! I like the idea of that "X" being just a part of a pattern. Making a "T, and other common shapes in small sizes and just piece together some nice custom beaded panel.
Also a good idea from another comment about keeping the inner cutouts to be able to create different paths.
You make such good content, these diy without fancy tools are my favorite.
Karl strikes again. Well done sir. I wish I had the time and money to come and work with you. You are a truly talented individual.
And then when continued watching I see you that you’re not leaving sharp corners 🤩
Love your Elvis TCB safety glasses
The other thing is you dont need a cnc to cut those hammer forms can be done with grinder & hole saws and good set files
Such a great thing! Really gets the brain gears moving.
Wow!! sooo good! Nice work, thanks for sharing!!
This is brilliant. I’m going to try this out. Perfect final firewall.
Hell ya i had that idea after i watched one of your videos with using mdf a year or two ago i just never got to doing anything with it to buisy with work and always seems like something happens before i can start a project and it never gets done lol good to see it works!!!!! Thanks for the video!!!!!
6:15 THATS AWESOME ‼️this is why this channel is the very best!
I Like !!! You could CNC a signature profile you can just in situ add to any car you customised. Simple is genius and this is so simple. I love watching the process of this thing happening, all the way from nothing is certain, to will you look at that ! It really is flowing. It's almost like you're blowing up a balloon. You just gently let it sag into shape, 'cause the biggest risk is overdoing it. And it staying so flat is a nice bonus. Beautiful !!
THANK U FOR THE INFO GOOD JOB
Good job, this method was one of the reasons i bought a plasmatable. You can trust a steeledge holding its shape. This is the most fun part of metalshaping
Dude this is innovative and it couldn't have come at a better time because I just cut the rear wall out of and old truck im building and had been trying to figure out a way to reinforce the new wall. Im excited for you the finished product is unreal ! Thanks MIK
saved in my metal working list. Might even subscribe... decided yes. Now lets see one for open back louvers... that is the one I want to make.
Look it forward to see the new tooling on the bead rolling . 😊
So great to see this success! I remember in the class in Vegas you were trying to figure this out.
Ya! This is the best way I think now.
Another great day 🎉
You always do awesome work man your brain goes a million miles a hour 👍
I'm so impressed , and it worked the first time ! Thank You
that is too cool. I am not a sheet metal guy but this looks fool proof enough that I might be able to pull it off.
That is cutting edge work right there! Thanks guys!
I’m digging your hero hair! Master fabricator! 4:09
Hi Karl (and team), this is awesome. As I mentioned to you a while back on email - I had my steel jigs made here in South Africa to help me fabricate new floor plates for my F250 project, based on the wooden ones which were not that successful for me. A bead roller cost and to import replacement floor parts from USA was too costly. I can send you pics of my test run -.... now I just need to learn how to dial in my small gasless MIG to close up holes. But I further see the holes do not need to be so close and as many as I have in my design. I truly am honored to learn these things form you.
I used a hammer flat head, welded to - A tapered cap screw head which I cut off and "rounded", then welded this onto the flat head portion of the hammer shaft as purchased.
I love what you're doing very inspiring.What you could do with your backing plate is to thread the holes in the backing plate so you don't need the nuts on the back of your studs.
Sweet new tool and fresh ideas to age old metal working! I'll take the first model a floor pan tool!
This is great idea! Now you have me thinking with my creative mind, Thanks!!
Literally took 1/100th of the time of the other hammer form. Great!
Carl, I enjoy the way your brain works. What an awesome concept
Boom! You guys are doing great with the air chisel line of tooling!
That is AWESOME !!. I want to do that. ! , I'm a retired aircraft mechanic. Sheet metal, and structures is my love. I'm going to try it. With my 3x rivet gun
. Thanks.
That worked out extremely well, great job.
Great job explaining everything as your rolling along, keep up the good work!
Wow. Perfecting your skill with better ad better (self made) tools is pretty impressive.
Well done Carl it looks amazing the finish is great, just a bit of brain storming and hard work yield results. Just a bit of friendly advice when hammering into the cross sections use a sharply texta it will highlight your progress. Cheers great stuff guys.
Hell yeah brother! Love the ideas you come up with & share with us! Badass!!
What a slick idea!!
Awesome idea and video. The results are incredible.
This looks awesome. Few ideas to improve.
If you weld the 2 back plates together it would be one less moving part. Then oversize the full plate holes and weld nuts in it.
All this would make for an easy self holding top screwed jig.
Also, I would try to make one open end channel, bridged the other side to keep the shape. Or even both end open.
That would make this modular. You bolt one 6" section, form it out, then move everything inline and continue to form along the original to make it 10”-12". So no need to make 4"-6"-8" linear, just one half that you move around. Would double the process but male it more versatile.